Azmir Latif

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STUDY OF BUILDUP & COLOR FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF

DIFFERENT REACTIVE DYES IN KNIT FABRIC

M. SC IN TEXTILE ENGINEERING

DAFFODIL INTERNATIONAL UNIVERSITY

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Table of Contents

Sl Nom Contents Page

1 Preface 5

2 Acknowledgements 6

3 Abstract 7

4

Chapter - 1; General Introduction 9

1.1 General Information 9

1.2 Objectives 12

5

Chapter - 2; Literature Review 13

2.1 Dyeing or wet processing flow chart 13

2.2 Reactive Dye 14

2.3 Properties of Reactive Dye 16

2.4 The Dyeing mechanism of reactive dye 16

2.5 Basic Principle of dyeing with Reactive Dyes 18

2.6 Reactive Dyestuff Selection for production 20

2.7 Fastness properties of reactive dye 22

6

Chapter - 3; Materials and Methods 29

3.1 Dyes used 29

3.2 Chemical used 29

3.3 Fabric 29

3.4 The materials 29

3.5 Carry out of finding build up properties 32

3.6 Carry out of finding of fixation properties 32

3.7 Colorfastness to perspiration 34

3.8 Colorfastness to Rubbing 36

3.9 Colorfastness to wash 38

3.10 Colorfastness to Light 40

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Chapter - 4; Results and Discussion 44

4.1 Reactive Brill Yellow 4GL Features 44

4.2 Reactive Red 2BF Features 48

4.3 Reactive N. Blue FBXN Features 52

4.4 Reactive Yellow 3RS Features 56

8

Chapter - 5; Conclusion 61

5.1: Pronouncement of this thesis 61

5.2 Termination 62

9 References 63

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List of Figure

Figure List Type of Figure Page

Figure1: Typical dyeing condition for bifunctionalmonochlorotriazine dye 19

Figure2: Typical dyeing condition for bifunctionalsulphone dye 19

Figure3: Auto dispenser 30

Figure4: Smart dyer 31

Figure5: Spectrophotometer 31

Figure6: Perspiration Tester and Woven 34

Figure7: Crock meter 36

Figure 8: Launder Ometer 38

Figure 9: Grey Scale 39

Figure10: Q-Sun BO2 41

Figure11: Blue Wool 41

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List of Table

Table List Type of Figure Page

Table 1 Amount of Galuber Salt & Soda used in Reactive Dyeing 32

Table 2 RH as per condition chart 42

Table 3 Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Acid) of Reactive Yellow 4GL 45

Table 4 Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Alkali) of Reactive Yellow 4GL 46

Table 5 Color fastness to Wash Result of Reactive Yellow 4GL 46

Table 6 Color fastness to Rubbing Result of Reactive Yellow 4GL 46

Table 7 Color fastness to Light Result of Reactive Yellow 4GL 47

Table 8 Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Acid) of Reactive Red 2BF 49

Table 9 Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Alkali) of Reactive Red 2BF 50

Table 10 Color fastness to Wash Result of Reactive Red 2BF 50

Table 11 Color fastness to Rubbing Result of Reactive Red 2BF 50

Table 12 Color fastness to Light Result of Reactive Red 2BF 51

Table 13 Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Acid) of Reactive N. Blue FBXN 52

Table 14 Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Alkali) of Reactive N. Blue FBXN 53

Table 15 Color fastness to Wash Result of Reactive N. Blue FBXN 53

Table 16 Color fastness to Rubbing Result of Reactive N. Blue FBXN 53

Table 17 Color fastness to Light Result of Reactive N. Blue FBXN 54

Table 18 Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Acid) of Reactive Yellow 3RS 56

Table 19 Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Alkali) of Reactive Yellow 3RS 57

Table 20 Color fastness to Wash Result of Reactive Yellow 3RS 57

Table 21 Color fastness to Rubbing Result of Reactive Yellow 3RS 57

Table 22 Color fastness to Light Result of Reactive Yellow 3RS 58

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ABSTRACT

In knitwear industry, dyeing of cotton knitted fabrics is mostly done with reactive dyes,

because of their good fastness properties and versatility of applications. The ease of

application, wide shade range, high brilliancy and excellent wet fastness properties make

the reactive dyes preferred choice for the dyeing of cellulosic fabrics. The most important

characteristic of reactive dyes is the formation of covalent bonds with the substrate to be

colored, i.e. the dye forms a chemical bond with cellulose. Fiber reactive dyes are the

most permanent of all dye types. Unlike other dyes, it actually forms a covalent bond with

the cellulose or protein molecule. Once the bond is formed, what you have is one

molecule, as the dye molecule has become an actual part of the cellulose fiber molecule.

Reactive dyes contain a reactive group that forms a chemical bond with cotton fiber under

alkaline conditions. Reactive dyes give bright, fast colors, and account for over 70% of the

dyes used for cotton. However, large quantities of salt are needed to cause the dye to

move from the dye bath to the fiber, and the exhaustion and fixation rates for reactive

dyes (the percentage of the dye that moves from the dye bath onto the fiber and the

percentage that bonds permanently to the fiber) are relatively low. For conventional

reactive dyes, the fixation rate is often less than 80%, resulting in waste of dye, and

removing the unfixed dye requires extensive rinsing and washing with heated water.

Dye suppliers are now offering improved dyes that enable much higher exhaustion and

fixation rates while requiring less than half the salt needed with standard reactive dyes.

These high-fixation dyes usually incorporate two different reactive groups within the

molecular structure of the dye. Much progress has been made in commercializing higher-

fixation reactive dyes for dyeing yarns, woven, knits, and garments. Some mills have been

able to boost their average fixation rates from below 70% to over 85%, and fixation rates

of over 90% have been reported. However, these higher-value dyes often are more

expensive than conventional dyes. Also, because these dyes have higher affinity for fiber

than do conventional dyes, they can be more difficult to apply uniformly, and more water

may be required for removal of unfixed dye. As mills gain experience with these new dyes

and develop confidence that they deliver savings in reduction and mill cost, their use

should increase significantly.

In reactive dyeing, the dyeing process can be broadly divided into two phases, namely

exhaustion and fixation. The process is lengthy, because much time is spent on the

controlled heating of dye bath and portion wise addition of salt and alkali in order to avoid

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unlevel dyeing and maximizing the exhaustion and fixation. In this paper I have tried to

find out the fixation rate of some reactive dye and their build up property. I have also

checked out the fastness report of these dyes on various shade percentage.

I have taken help of spectrophotometer to find out the buildup & fixation rate of three dyes.

I have done some fastness test by using Launder ohmmeter machine for wash fastness,

crock meter for rubbing fastness, Q-Sun BO2 for light fastness & perspiration tester &

oven for perspiration test. I have tried to maintain all of the essential parameter for the

accuracy of these fastness tests.

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Chapter – 1; General Information

1.1: General information:

Reactive dyes have proven to be one of the most successful classes of modern synthetic

dyes. The reasons for this success lie in their shade versatility, their flexibility in

application, and the all-round good fastness properties obtained from ehydr produced

with reactive dyes on wool, silk, cotton, and regenerated cellulosic fibers. The chemistry of

the different reactive groups used, the chemistry of reactive dye manufacture, and the

chemical principles behind their application to cellulosic fibers and polyamide fibers is

reviewed.An optimum recipe is the recipe for which we need to use minimum dyes and

chemicals but will achieve the correct shade first time with the maximum fixation. This will

mean that there will be less wastage of dyes and chemicals and reduce the effluent load.

This will also include optimizing the dyeing process.

The major and very important part in textile dyeing is the Dyestuff Selection –

a) How to select a particular combination,

b) For a particular shade,

c) For a particular machine,

d) For a particular final end user requirement etc.

Selection of Dyestuff solves 50% of post dyeing problems.

The selection of reactive dyestuff for a tri-chromatic or bi-chromatic combination plays a

very important role in the performance and reproducibility of reactive dyeing in textile

processing. There are some crucial Points that should be in your head while you are

selecting the reactive dyes for dyeing fabric.

While selecting dyes the factories usually consider only cost but rarely consider factors

that relate to the quality of the dye, including the quality of the dye produced by the

manufacturer and the subsequent changes in quality due to the age of the dye, poor

storage and handling. Crucially dye managers need to consider the compatibility of dyes

in a mixture, including the reactive group and the size of the molecule. Factory managers

are often not concerned with the full economic cost associated with selecting dyes. This

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includes not only the cost of the dye per kilogram, but the quantity of dye required, which

should reduce if good quality dyes of high color strength are used, the time taken for

dyeing, and the need for re-dyeing and re-shading which should also reduce if good

quality dyes are used as results should have better reproducibility and levelness. Dye

managers are usually sent sample of fabric by textile buyers and asked to match the color.

In many cases they do this by developing recipes based on their past experience and

matching the color by eye. However increasingly dyers are generating recipes and

checking results using color matching software. The use of modern software reduces the

potential for error and for shade adjustments in bulk production. There are differences

between factors in the laboratory and on the factory floor. For example agitation of fabric

and machine efficiency. There are also differences in procedures such as the number and

type of auxiliaries added, for example soda ash is added in the laboratory for alkali

treatment but in bulk production both caustic and soda ash are added to get the correct

shade. There are also differences in the number of wash-offs and the vigor of washing.

The factory floor staff usually slightly alters the recipe and dye process provided by the

laboratory. They usually increase or decrease the shade percentage of the dyes based on

their past experience as the equipment on the floor and other factors that are different

from the laboratory mean that if they follow the recipe exactly as provided by the

laboratory they will not achieve the correct shade. They also use a different profile on the

factory floor and in the laboratory. Although this is necessary, the lack of record keeping of

changes and difference between the factory floor and the laboratory means that errors

and re-shading are common. Continuous observation and discussion with dye managers

revealed that errors due to incorrect recipes or not following the recipes closely are

common. Some of the dye managers mentioned that they around 10-15 percent of fabric

needs to be re-shaded and 5-10 percent re-dyed. The selection of reactive dyestuff for a

tri-chromatic or bi-chromatic combination plays a very important role in the performance

and reproducibility of reactive dyeing in textile processing. There are some crucial Points

that should be in our head while we are selecting the reactive dyes for dyeing fabric.

An optimum recipe is the recipe for which we need to use minimum dyes and chemicals

but will achieve the correct shade first time with the maximum fixation. This will mean that

there will be less wastage of dyes and chemicals and reduce the effluent load. This will

also include optimizing the dyeing process.

Yes, optimum recipes can be achieved but require the evaluation, implementation and

control and monitoring of various dyeing parameters; this will include, dye selection,

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measuring the exhaustion and fixation of dyes, monitoring dyeing temperatures, pH, liquor

ratio and time. In addition to controlling the dyeing process, careful attention must be paid

to the quality and storage of dyes and chemicals in order to avoid variation in materials

between batches. Careful monitoring of lab to bulk recipes needs to be undertaken

together with establishing good communication between the lab and the plant.

While selecting dyes it is sometimes difficult to select compatible dyes if little information is

given by a dyestuff supplier. It is the utmost duty of dye manager or production manager

to select the best dyes for his production. Various parameters to be considered including:

dye cost, quality of dyes, dyeing process, and shade matching. There are various types of

dyes for many textile fibres; for example, reactive dyes, vat dyes for cotton, acid dyes for

wool, silk and polyamide fibres. Cotton reactive dyes such as vinyl sulphone or mono

chlorotriazine have a different reactive group which will require distinctive application

conditions. A knowledgeable dyer will be able to recognize the reactive group on the dye

molecule from its chemical structure and be able to specify the correct application

conditions for the specific dye and be able to select compatible dyes for 3 dye combination

shades.

In exhaust dyeing, all the material contacts all the dye liquor and the fibre absorbs the

dyes. The dye concentration in the bath therefore gradually decreases. The degree of dye

bath exhaustion is therefore a function of time describes the rate and extent of the dyeing

process. For a single dye, the exhaustion is defined as the mass of the dye taken up by

the material divided by the total initial mass of dye in the bath, but for a bath of constant

volume.

Fixation is basically how much the dye reacts with the fabric. It depends on how much dye

is fixed onto the fabric after considering all the washes. For the measurement of fixation

one can do the same as for exhaustion and also measuring the absorbance of all the

washes and then he can find out easily the fixation for the fixation.

Actually for a perfect dyeing, first we have to select through which combination we have

can get perfect result as well as our fastness requirement. For this we must have to know

the dyes properties, as well as the fastness properties of these dyes in different shade

percentage. If we know these properties then we can get an idea which combination will

perfect for my bulk production, and will meet my fastness requirement. This will must

recover from lot of burdens which is coming after dyeing (If causes any dyeing problem)

and before dyeing we are getting an idea or plan ourselves how we can improve or get our

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required fastness results. If after dyeing any products fails in fastness test we can get an

idea for which dyes, this products becomes failed. So we can easily find out the problem

and as well as can take required step for solving this problem. We can change the dye

and select another dyes for achieve the fastness requirement. For a perfect combination it

is necessary to know the dyes properties and fastness properties.

1.2: Objective:

1. To find out the buildup curve of some reactive dyes.

2. To find out the fixation curve of some reactive dyes.

3. How to select a perfect combination for combination shade.

4. Comparison study of fastness properties including wet and light fastness of some

reactive dyes in different shade percentage.

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Chapter -2; Literature Review

2.1: The dyeing or wet processing flow chart is given below: Before dyeing

a fabric or yarn some pre-treatment and after treatment is needed. A flowchart is drawn

here by combining these:

Grey Fabric Inspection

↓

Sewing or Stitching

↓

Singeing

↓

Desizing

↓

Scouring

↓

Bleaching

↓

Mercerizing

↓

Dyeing

↓

Printing

↓

Finishing

↓

Final Inspection

↓

Delivery

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This is the most widely used wet processing flow-chart on the contemporary textile

industry. But sometimes on some factories the scouring and bleaching is done

simultaneously.

In this paper I shall discuss on dyeing of cotton goods with reactive dyes, as I have

worked with reactive dyes and its fastness properties. Reactive dyes are very popular in

Bangladesh textile industry. Here I have given some common idea on reactive dyes.

2.2: Reactive Dye: Fiber reactive dyes are the most permanent of all dye types. Unlike

other dyes, it actually forms a covalent bond with the cellulose or protein molecule. Once

the bond is formed, what you have is one molecule, as the dye molecule has become an

actual part of the cellulose fiber molecule. No wonder you can safely wash a garment that

has been dyed in bright fiber reactive colours with white clothing, a hundred times, without

endangering the whites in the least – even if it is all different bright colours, or even solid

black! In contrast to all other dyes the reactive dyes bind chemically to the textile fibres,

significantly improving the product’s colour stability and wash ability. Thus reactive dying

of cotton is currently the most widespread textile dying process in the world. In a reactive

dye a chromophore contains a substituent that is activated and allowed to directly react to

the surface of the substrate. Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the

bonding that occurs during dyeing. Reactive dyes are most commonly used in dyeing of

cellulose like cotton or flax, but also wool is dyeable with reactive dyes. Reactive dyes first

appeared commercially in 1956, after their invention in 1954 by Rattee and Stephens at

the Imperial Chemical Industries Dyestuffs Division site in Blackley, Manchester, United

Kingdom. Reactive dyes or Fibre reactive dyes are basically a class of highly coloured

organic substances. Reactive dyes use a chromophore that contains a substituent that is

quite capable of a direct reaction with a fibre substrate.

General Features of a Reactive Dye

Molecule

W = water solubilising group

D = chromophore

B = bridging group

RG = reactive group

X = leaving group

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It is the covalent bonds which the reactive dyes form with the substrates that are

responsible for attaching the reactive dye to natural fibers. The dyes contain a reactive

group (often trichlorotriazine), either a haloheterocycle or an activated double bond, that,

when applied to a fibre in an alkaline dye bath,

forms a chemical bond with an hydroxyl group on the cellulosic fibre.

The reactive dye undergoes two types of reaction:

1. Nucleophilc substitution

2. Nucleophilic Addition

Neocleophilic substitution: The reaction with cellulose by nucleophilic substitution of an

available chlorine, fluorine, methyl sulphone or nicotinyl group activated by an adjacent

nitrogen atom in a heterocyclic ring.

Halogen containing reactive dyes, under mild alkaline condition, undergoes substitution

reaction.

Nucleophilic Addition: Those reacting with cellulose by necleuophilic addition to a

carbon carbon double bond usually activated by an adjacent electron attracting sulphone

group.

Reactive dyes containing vinyl sulphone group under mild alkaline condition, under

addition reaction.

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R = Chromophore

Cell = Cellulose

And trichlorotriazine:

Reactive dyeing is now the most important method for the colouration of cellulosic fibres.

Reactive dyes can also be applied on wool and nylon; in the latter case they are applied

under weakly acidic conditions. Reactive dyes have a low utilization degree compared to

other types of dyestuff, since the functional group also bonds to water, creating hydrolysis.

2.3: Properties of reactive dye:

1) Reactive dyes are cationic dyes, which are used for dyeing cellulose, protein and

polyamide fibres.

2) Reactive dyes are found in power, liquid and print paste form.

3) During dyeing the reactive group of this dye forms covalent bond with fibre polymer and

becomes an integral parts of the fibre.

4) Reactive dyes are soluble in water.

5) They have very good light fastness with rating about 6. The dyes have very stable

electron arrangement and can protect the degrading effect of ultra-violet ray.

6) Textile materials dyed with reactive dyes have very good wash fastness with rating

Reactive dye gives brighter shades and has moderate rubbing fastness.

7) Dyeing method of reactive dyes is easy. It requires less time and low temperature for

dyeing.

8) Reactive dyes are comparatively cheap

9) Reactive dyes have good perspiration fastness with rating 4-5.

10) Reactive dyes have good perspiration fastness.

2.4: The Dyeing mechanism of reactive dye:

The dyeing mechanism of material with reactive dye takes place in 3 stages:

1. Exhaustion of dye in presence of electrolyte or dye absorption.

2. Fixation under the influence of alkali.

3. Wash-off the unfixed dye from material surface.

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Dye absorption:

When fibre is immersed in dye liquor, an electrolyte is added to assist the exhaustion of

dye, Here common salt or ehydra salt is used as the electrolyte. The electrolyte

neutralize the negative charge formed in the fibre surface and puts extra energy to

increase dye absorption. So when the textile material is introduces to dye liquor the dye is

exhausted on the fibre. At the rate dye absorb to the fibre. Initially this rate remains very

high but it reduces upon time. So primary control is very important.

Substantivitydeterminator:

1. Affinity

2. Liquor ratio

3. Temperature

4. Electrolytes concentration

5. PH

6. Fibre situation

Exhastion Phase Diffusion:

1. Some of the factors effect diffusion, such as:

2. PH of the bath

3. Substantivity

4. Dyes aggregation

5. Pretreatment of the fabric

6. Etc.

In exhaust dyeing, all the material contacts all the dye liquor and the fibre absorbs the

dyes. The dye concentration in the bath therefore gradually decreases. The degree of dye

bath exhaustion is therefore a function of time describes the rate and extent of the dyeing

process. For a single dye, the exhaustion is defined as the mass of the dye taken up by

the material divided by the total initial mass of dye in the bath, but for a bath of constant

volume.It determines reaction rate of the dyes. Reactivity determines amount of alkali,

temperature and dyeing time. Also dosing system of alkali. Control of this factor is very

important for uniform dyeing. Most of the running shade problem is happening for this

factor.

Fixation: Fixation of dye means the reaction of reactive group of dye with terminal –OH or

NH2 group of fibre and thus forming strong covalent bond with the fibre and thus forming

strong covalent bond with the fibre. This is an important phase, which is controlled by

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maintaining proper PH by adding alkali. The alkali used for this purpose depends on brand

of dye and dyeing temperature. Here generally caustic soda, soda ash or NaHCO3 is used

as alkali depending upon reactivity of dye. They create proper PH in dye bath and do as

the dye-fixing agent.

Wash off:

As the dyeing is completed, a good wash must be applied to the material to remove extra

and unfixed dyes from material surface. This is necessary for level dyeing and good wash

fastness. It is done by a series of hot wash, cold wash and soap solution wash.

Control Parameters:

1. PH

2. Temperature

3. Dyeing Time

4. Liquor Ratio

5. Concentration of electrolyte (salt)

2.5: Basic Principle of Dyeing with Reactive Dyes

Start dyeing in neutral solution in presence of salt or gradually promote to exhaustion

No reaction of dye with fibre takes place only absorption and migration of dye in the fibre.

The appropriate alkali is added

Acidic dissociation of cellulose takes place producing cellulose ion

This start the dye fibre reaction

Dyeing continue until no dye is taken up

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Through washing to remove the absorbed but infixed & hydrolyzed dye

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Figure – 1

Figure – 2

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Reactive dyes are categorized by functional group.

Functiona Fixation Temperature Included in Brands

Monochlorotriazine Haloheterocycle 80˚

Basilen E & P

Cibacron E

Procion H,HE

Monofluorochlorotriazine Haloheterocycle 40˚ Cibacron F & C

Dichlorotriazine Haloheterocycle 30˚ Basilen M

Procion MX

Difluorochloropyrimidine Haloheterocycle 40˚ Levafix EA

Drimarene K & R

Dichloroquinoxaline Haloheterocycle 40˚ Levafix E

Trichloropyrimidine Haloheterocycle 80-98˚ Drimarene X & Z

Cibacron T

Vinyl sulfone activated double bond 40˚ Remazol

Vinyl amide activated double bond 40˚ Remazol

2.6: Reactive Dyestuff Selection for production:

Solubility of individual dyestuff in g/l without salt (straight) and with salt should be checked

importantly to dye selection for a combination shade. In a tri-chromatic combination, all the

reactive dyes should have almost similar solubility characterized. The reactive dyestuff

that gets affected by the presence of salt would,

Produce tonally different shade,

b) Produce poor rubbing and wash fast dyeing

c) Batch to batch difference in depth and tone would result.

We must consider the following things while reactive dyeing:

The selection of reactive dyestuff for a tri-chromatic or bi-chromatic combination plays a

very important role in the performance and reproducibility of reactive dyeing in textile

processing. There are some crucial Points that should be in your head while you are

selecting the reactive dyes for dyeing fabric.

Solubility Characteristics of Reactive Dye: Solubility of individual dyestuff in g/l without

salt (straight) and with salt should be checked importantly to dye selection for a

combination shade. In a tri-chromatic combination, all the reactive dyes should have

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almost similar solubility characterized. The reactive dyestuff that gets affected by the

presence of salt.

Using of Primary Colors:

One should try to use the Basic Colors such as Red, G.Yellow and Blue. The secondary

colors should be avoided as far as possible.

The Red’s and Blue’s varies with shade and requirement of fastness properties.

Dyes with similar Exhaustion and Fixation values:

The Reactive dyeing takes place in three steps. Viz.

1. Exhaustion

2.Fixation

3. Wash off

Normally two types of exhaustion take place while dyeing. These are primary and

secondary exhaustion.Primary Exhaustion is the amount of dyestuff migrated on the

substrate in the presence of salt. While secondary exhaustion is the total amount of dye

migrated on the substrate in the presence of salt and alkali.

Dyes with Similar Affinity:

Generally the dyes are classified as Low, Medium, High and Very High affinity dyes.

For Exhaust dyeing, high and very high affinity dyes and preferred. Whereas low affinity

dyes are used in continuous dyeing. If anyonefollows the above steps you will be able to

properly select reactive dye.

The dye uptake of the fabric can be determined spectrophotometrically by detecting the

amount of dye remaining in the dyebath after dyeing is completed. Common practice is

that the concentration of the dye is determined according to its calibration curve in water

since a linear relationship is usually found between absorbance and concentration. For the

measurements to be reliable, the extinction coefficient of the dye, as determined from the

slope of the Beer–Lambert calibration graph, should be constant, even though the

composition and the temperature of the dye solution may vary. However, some reactive

dyes give pronounced changes in extinction coefficient when the salt concentration or pH

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of the solution is changed or when the solution is boiled. Thus it is very difficult to obtain

reliable data of dyebath exhaustion/fixation yield.

Fabric dyeing usually requires three basic dyes in a mixture to achieve the desired hue

and shade. Dyes with similar reactive groups and same exhaustion properties will be said

to be compatible with each other and are ideal for use in such mixtures. Selecting

compatible dyes is a part of ensuring an optimum dyeing recipe which will most efficiently

utilize the dye. Produce optimal dyeing result sand will reduce the number of chemicals

that enter the wastewater. So, checking the compatibility of dyes is a keyway to minimize

the amount of dyes used as well as ensuring the matching of the specific shade. Basic

theoryof testing of the compatibility of reactive dyes is availablein different text books1 on

textile dyeing. By testing thecompatibility of dyes the costs of dyeing can be reducedand

the level of productivity can be increased because ofless time wasted in trying to get the

correct shade. Thiswork was carried out for three different reactive dyes tocheck their

compatibility in a dyeing recipe. In thismethod, Spectrophotometric analysis2 was

conducted andthe fixation of each dye was determined by using computercolour matching

system.

2.7: Fastness properties of reactive dye:

Even though reactive dyes have excellent wash fastness properties, often buyers

complain of poor wash fastness. This is mainly due to adherence of hydrolyzed dyes onto

cotton. If they are not washed off after dyeing, they behave like direct dyes and bleed

during the initial washings carried out by the customers. In order to avoid the complaints,

some dyers take extra precautions by providing more than the required number of

washings. Therefore the second objective of the present study is to develop a quick

method to optimize the number of washings to be given after reactive dyeing to achieve

good wash fastness properties, especially for dark and medium shades.

Definition of Fastness:

Fastness is the resistance of textile materials to resist a load or destructive factor such as

abrasion, heat, light, perspiration, wearing, acidic and alkaline condition.

Fastness is the property of coloured material. It is not the property of colourant or

substrate in isolation.

Categories of Fastness:

Producers fastness

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Users fastness

Types of Textile Test Methods:

Test for Colourfastness e.g.

Colourfastness to Wash

Colourfastness to rubbing

Colourfastness to Perspiration

Colourfastness to Light

Colourfastness to Hot Press etc.

Test for Strength e.g.

Breaking Strength

Tearing Strength

Bursting Strength

Seam Strength etc

Test for Performance:

Pilling Resistance

Abrasion & Pilling

Water Repellency

Flammability etc

Objects of fastness testing:

Research

Selection of raw material for manufacturing

Process Control

Process Development

Product development as per standards

Specification testing etc.

What Kinds of changes a coloured substrate may undergo:

Change in depth

Change in hue

Change in luster

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Factor affecting change in colour and stunning:

The colour changes when dyed or printed textile are subjected to a particularly are due to

one or both of the following two main causes. The first is the breakdown of the colourant

itself inside, the fabric, where by the, it is converted colourless or differently coloured

compound. The second is the detachment of the as such from the fibre. There may be a

change in the colour of the fibre which will lead to change in the colour of the dyeing point

of view.

It is important to emphasize that colourfastness is a property of coloured textile material

and not of a colourant in isolation.

The extent in the change in colour of a coloured textile material and staining of adjacent

on expose to particular condition is determined by a number of characteristics of the

colourant and fibre in association with each other in the dyeing or print.

There are certain factors which affect almost all the fastness tests. They are:

1. Chemical structure of the colourant

2. The state of the colourant in the fibre

3. The amount of the colourant in the fibre

4. The fibre

5. Foreign Substances

In the cases of fastness to light, there are few additional factors, they are

1. The spectral composition and intensity of the incident radiation

2. The external atmospheric condition

3. Relative humidity and air temperature

4. Contaminants such as oxides of nitrogen sulphur on ozone in the air.

The effects of the some of the factors are discussed:

The Chemical Structure of the colour

The resistance of the dye or pigment to a chemical or photochemical attack is directly

related to its chemical suture. Then the relatively high fastness to light of dyeing of

anthraquinone dyes on wool and the poor light fastness to triphenylmethane acid dyes on

the same substrate are directly attributed to the stability of one and instantibility of the

other photochemical attack.

Similarly the good fastness to oxidizing bleaching agents of anthraqunonoid vat dyes on

ccellulosicfibres is related to the high stability of such compounds to oxidation.

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When one or more dyes are present in the fibre one may catalyse the breakdown of

another. Some of the colourant molecule may accelerate the tendering of the fibre and the

weakening of the material.

State of Colourant in the fibre:

The state of the colourant in the fibre is obviously important. The superiority of reactive

dyes over the direct dyes in respect of fastness to wet treatment on cellulosic fibres in the

direct result of the covalent attachment of the reactive dye to the fibre compared to the

attachment of the direct dye through reversible forces, such as hydrogen bond and other

secondary attractive forces.

In the dyeing or print of reactive dye, the colourant molecule becomes one entity and part

only under very severe conditions. In the case of dyeing of direct dyes on the cellulosic

fibres reversal of the dyeing process is fairly initiated since dye absorption and retention is

due to weak forces of attraction which are easily overcome. The very high fastness to wet

treatment of dyeing and prints e.g. of vat dyes, azoic combination and other ingrain dye is

due to the fact that the dye inside the fibre is in the form of relatively large particle of

insoluble colourant are usually very resistant to removal during wet treatment. At the

same time the presence of the colourant in the fibre in this results in improvement in its

stability of chemical attack.

Amount of colorant present on the fibre:

The colorfastness of a deep dyeing on print of a particular dye often differs markedly from

that of pale dyeing on print of the same the same dye on the same fibre when the principle

effect of exposure to particular condition is to produce a change in the colour of the

material e.g. as in the case with exposure to light it is generally found that the deeper the

dyeing on print (i.e. the greater the amount of dye present on the fibre, the higher is the

fastness in respect of change in colour exposure.)

In certain cases the fastness to light of deep dyeing may be two or more points (on the 1 –

8 scale) than that of pale dyeing of the same dye. This is explained in part by the fact that

the deeper the dyeing greater the amount of the dye which must be destroyed before

variable change in the colour of the material becomes apparent.

The situation is complicated by the fact that the colorant is present

In the fibre in the form of large particles of pigment in the case even a pale dyeing or print

contains relatively large amount of colorant is a state (aggregate form) in which it is less

susceptible to photo chromic attack and thus the effect of depth of colour on light fastness

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is much less pronounced or event absent. The high fastness to light of pale dyeing of

points of pigment resin bonded to the fibre is a very good example of this.

In this case of condition washing, water, dry heat (disperse dye) the fastness of the dyeing

of print in respect of staining of adjacent materials decreases of as a depth of dyeing

increases. This is easily understood since the greater the amount of dye present more

likely is it that during exposure sufficient to cause staining will be detached from the

material.

It is relevant at this point to shade some light on the topic of standard depths and standard

scale.

Since the colour fastness of dyeing or print is related to the depth of colour it is often

necessary to indicate the depth of colour of the necessary to indicate the depth of colour

of the dyeing or print under test.

This particularly so when specifying the fastness characteristics of a colourant. To enable

this to be done objectively the ISO recommended a range of twenty reference colours

termed standard depths covering the range yellow to black.

With the exception of navy blue and black each colour is displayed in six depth, referred to

as 2/1, 1/1, 1/3, 1/6, 1/12 and 1/25 standard depth respectively In the case of navy blue

black only two standard depths are prescribed the lighter navy blue and black are

designated Nb /L and B/L and darker navy blue and black being designated Nb/Dk and

B/Dk.

The standard depths are provided by the British standard institution reproduced on a matt

cloth (wool gabardine) and a lustrous cloth (bright viscose rayon)

The depth of the colour of the material under test is assessed by visual comparison with

the series of standard depths of appropriate colour.

The Fibre:

The colourfastness of coloured textiles is related to the chemical structure and physical

characteristics of fibre itself. The wet fastness of disperse dye on polyester fibre is much

higher than the secondary cellulose acetate materials. This is because of polyester fibre

are much more compact in structure are consequently diffusion of dyes within them

proceeds much more slowly under given conditions.

Fastness varies with moisture regain properties of different fibre. This is particularly so in

case of light fastness which depends on effective humidity that depends on moisture

regain.

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The fastness properties of basic dyed or printed on acrylic fibre is much better than those

on basic dyed / printed silk or wool.

Finally physical dimension of the fibres or filaments may be a determining factor. The

higher fastness to light of certain direct dyes on high filament denier viscose staple fibres

for carpets in attributed to the lower surface volume ratio compound with that of the low

filament denier yarn used for other textile process.

Foreign Substances:

Substances other than the colourant may be present in the fibre. These include moisture,

de luster e.g. lithmium dioxide residual dyeing assistant e.g. carrier used when dyeing

polyester fibres, after treating agents finishing agent e.g. synthetic resin deposited in the

fibre to confer crease shedding properties and agents deliberately applied to improve

colourfastness to particular agency.

Titanium dioxide can catalyze photo chromic attack and thus the light fastness of a dye on

titanium dioxide may be lower than on the bright material. It has been known that the

presence of no more than laces of certain carriers e.g. o – phenyl phenol in a dyed or

printed polyester materials can reduce light fastness by a much as two points on the 1 – 8

scale.

The reduction in light fastness of many dyes on cellulosic fibres which can result from

resin finishing taken into account when selecting dyes for use in these circimstaneous.

Cationic compounds applied to dyeing of direct dyes on cellulosic fibres to improve

fastness to washing (wet treatments) can also extent on average influence on light

fastness.

Some common color fastness definition:

Colorfastness to wash: This method is designed to determine the effect of washing on

the colour fastness of the textile. A specimen of the coloured textile in contact with one or

two specified adjacent fabrics is mechanically agitated under specified conditions of time

and temperature in a soap solution, then rinsed and dried. The change in colour of the

specimen and the staining of the adjacent fabric are assessed with the grey scale.

The degree of fading and staining depends on:

• Temperature

• The types of detergent used

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• The amount of detergent used

• Mechanical action (No of steel ball used)

• The washing liquor ratio

• The hardness of water

• The rinsing, drying or pressing method used to restore the sample after the

washing.

Colourfastness to Rubbing: The Test is designed to determine the degree of colour

which may be transferred from the surface of a coloured fabric to specific test cloth for

rubbing (Dry & Wet). The Crock meter provides a rubbing motion simulating the action of a

human finger and forearm

Colourfastness to Perspiration: The garments which come into contact with the body

where perspiration is heavy may suffer serious local discolouration. This test is intended to

determine the resistance of colour of dyed textile to the action of acidic and alkaline

perspiration.Determine the effect of acid & alkali perspiration on the colourfastness of

textile materials.

Colourfastness to Water: The garments which come into contact with water, may suffer

serious local discolouration. This test is intended to determine the resistance of colour of

dyed textile to the action of water.

Colourfastness to Light: A Specimen of the Textile to be tested is exposed to artificial

light under prescribed conditions, along with a set of blue wool references. The colour

fastness is assessed be comparing the change in colour of the test specimen with that of

the references used.

Fastness measurement by eyes is subjective, since it is dependent on evaluation of the

observer. Sometimes problems occur because the producer and customer give different

values to the same fastness test. To eliminate subjective perception of evaluating colour

fastness by eyes, instrumental colour fastness measurement methods have been

developed and it has been presented to the service of textile sector. The aim of this study

is to evaluate acid and basic colour fastness to perspiration and colour fastness to

washing of reactive dyed cotton products both with the eye and spectrophotometer.

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Chapter – 3; Materials And Methods

3.1: Dyes used:

1. Reactive N. Blue FBXN

2. Reactive Brill. Yellow 4GL

3. Reactive Red 2BF

4. Reactive Yellow 3RS

3.2: Chemical Used:

1. Soda Ash

2. Glauber Salt

3. Prote Sprese A340 N as Soaping Agent.

3.3: Fabrics:

1. 100% Cotton Knit (Songle Jersey, GSM = 180)

3.4: The materials are used for my work are as follows:

1. Balance

2. Beaker

3. Glass Rod

4. Austock Pro machine for solution making

5. Stirrer

6. Auto dispenser machine for dispensing

7. Smart Dyer for dyeing

8. Dryer Machine

9. Iron

10. Spectrophotometer

11. Crock meter for rubbing test

12. Q-Sun BO2 for light Fastness

13. Perspiration tester

14. Perspiration Oven

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15. Launder Ometer for wash fastness

16. Multi fibre

17. Crocking cloth

18. Grey Scale for colour change

19. Grey scale for staining

20. Blue wool

Methods for finding build up properties & Fixation properties of some reactive dyes:

For this process I have used

A. Balance

B. Beaker

C. Glass Rod

D. Austock Pro machine for solution making

E. Stirrer

F. Auto dispenser machine for dispensing

G. Smart Dyer for dyeing

H. Dryer Machine

I. Iron

Figure – 3 : Auto dispenser

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Figure – 4 : Smart Dyer

Figure – 5 : Spectrophotometer

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3.5: Carry out of finding build up properties:

A. I have made stock solution of 1% for all dyes with the help of austock pro machine.

B. I have taken 5 gm 100% cotton knit fabric (180 gsm). Weight has taken through

balance.

C. I have taken dispense of recipe 0.5%, 1.0%, 2.0%, 3.0%, 4.0% of each dye.

D. I have followed the chart for choosing salt & soda ratio

Table – 1; Amount of Galuber Salt & Soda used in Reactive Dyeing

Recipe % Salt Soda

0.5% 30 g/l 15 g/l

1.0% 40 g/l 20 g/l

2.0% 50 g/l 20 g/l

3.0% 60 g/l 20 g/l

4.0% 70 g/l 20 g/l

E. During dyeing primary stage I have put only salt, after dyeing at normal temperature I

add soda in the dyeing bath and raise the temperature to 60 0 C and cut the 1st sample,

then after 15 minutes I cut 2nd sample in this way I cut 4 sample.

After dyeing I have followed the process. Following washing

Cold wash – At Room temperature, for 10 min.

Neutralization - 1-2 ml/l Glacial acetic acid at 40 ◦C.

Hot wash- At 80 ◦C temperature, for 10min.

Soaping – Prote–Sperse A340N, 2 g/l at 98 ◦C for 15 min.

Warm Rinsing – At 50 – 60 ◦C temperature, for 10 min.

Cold Rinsing – At 20 – 30 ◦C temperature, for 10 min.

F. I dry the fabric by using dryers

G. Then by using the spectrophotometer I have find the strength difference of each

sample and plot in excel to find out the buildup properties.

3.6: Carry out of finding of fixation properties:

A. I have made stock solution of 1% for all dyes with the help of austock pro

machine.

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B. I have taken 5 gm 100% cotton knit fabric (180 gsm). Weight has taken through

balance.

C. I have taken dispense of recipe 2.0% of each dye.

D. I have followed the chart for choosing salt & soda ratio

Recipe % Salt Soda

2.0% 50 g/l 20 g/l

E. During dyeing primary stage I have put only salt, after dyeing at normal

temperature I add soda in the dyeing bath and raise the temperature to 60 0 C and

cut the 1st sample, then after 15 minutes I cut 2nd sample in this way I cut 4 sample.

F. After dyeing I have followed the process. Following washing

Cold wash – At Room temperature, for 10 min.

Neutralization – 1-2 ml/l Glacial acetic acid at 40 ◦C.

Hot wash- At 80 ◦C temperature, for 10min.

Soaping – Prote–Sperse A340N, 2 g/l at 98 ◦C for 15 min.

Warm Rinsing – At 50 – 60 ◦C temperature, for 10 min.

Cold Rinsing – At 20 – 30 ◦C temperature, for 10 min.

G. I dry the fabric by using dryers

H. Then by using the spectrophotometer I have find the strength difference of each

sample and plot in excel to find out the fixation properties.

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3.7: Colorfastness to perspiration

Method: ISO 105-E04

Apparatus:

1. Stainless steel frame Size 60mm × 115mm, weight 5 kg

2. Balance

3. PH meter

4. Grey scale for color change

5. Acid perspiration solution

6. Alkali perspiration solution

Figure – 6 : Perspiration Tester and Oven

Preparation of Reagent:

Acid perspiration solution, freshly prepared, containing per liter

1. 0.5gm l-histidinemonohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H9N3O2.HCl.H2O)

2. 5 gm sodium chloride (NaCl)

3. 2.2 gm Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dIhydrate (NaH2PO4.2H2O)

The solution is brought to PH 5.5 with 0.1 mol/l sodium hydroxide solution.

Alkali perspiration solution, freshly prepared, containing per liter

1. 0.5gm l-histidinemonohydrochloride monohydrate (C6H9N3O2.HCl.H2O)

2. 5 gm sodium chloride (NaCl)Either

5 gm of disodium hydrogen orthophosphate, ehydrate ate (Na2HPO4.12

H2O)or

gm of disodium hydrogen orthophosphate, ehydrate (Na2HPO4.2H2O)

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Test Specimen: Sample Size 100 mm × 40mm

Procedure:

1. Weight the specimen to ±0.01 gm

2. Place the sample in a dish and add 50 ml of freshly prepared acid perspiration

solution. Soak the test specimen at room temperature for 30 ±2 min with occasional

agitation and squeezing to ensure wetting.

3. Remove specimen from solution and blot each specimen to remove excess

solution. Reweigh to determine (100±5) % pick up. Put the sample between two

glass plates under a pressure 12.5 Kpa.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 for the alkali perspiration solution.

5. Put it into Oven at 37±2˚C.

6. Remove sample from device and dry by hanging it in air at a temperature not

exceed 60˚C.

7. Attach each specimen to a water repellent white card.

Assessment: Assess the change of color by grey scale for color change.

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3.8: Colorfastness to Rubbing

Method: ISO-105X12

Apparatus:

1. Suitable crock meter

2. Cotton rubbing cloth

3. Grey scale for staining

Test specimen: Specimen Size 50mm × 140mm

Figure – 7: Crock Meter

Conditioning: Conditioning textile for testing at least 4 hrs in an atmosphere of 20 ±

2°C and 65 ± 2 % RH.

Procedure:

Dry Rubbing:

Place the conditioned rubbing cloth, flat over the end of the finger with the weave

parallel to the direction of the rubbing finger.

At a rate of one cycle per second, rub backward and forward in a straight line 20 times.

10 times backward and 10 times forward, along a track (104±3)mm long the dry

specimen, with downward force of (9±2) N

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Remove test specimen and condition as in above.

Wet Rubbing:

1. Weigh the conditioned piece of cloth, and then soak in distilled water.

2. Reweigh to ensure take-up of 95% to 100%.

3. Follow the procedure of dry rubbing.

Drying: Air dry the test cloth.

Evaluation:

a. Back each tested rubbing cloth with rubbing cloth while evaluating.

b. Assess the staining of the cotton rubbing cloths with the Grey scale for staining.

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3.9: Colorfastness to wash

Method: ISO-1O5-CO6

Apparatus and Reagents:

1. Launder ometer

2. Stainless Steel Balls

3. Grey Scale

4. Adjacent fabrics

5. Multi-fiber adjacent fabrics

6. Soap

7. Anhydrous Sodium carbonate

Figure – 8: Launder Ometer

Preparation of soap solution: Containing 5 gm of soap and 2 gm of Anhydrous

Sodium carbonate per liter of water.

Test specimen: Specimen and multi-fiber fabric Size 40mm × 100mm. Attach a

specimen measuring to a piece of multi-fiber adjacent fabric by sewing.

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Procedure:

1. Place the composite specimen in the container together with 10 stainless steel balls

and add the necessary amount of soap solution, previously heated to 95±2 ◦C, to

give a liquor ratio of 50:1

2. Treat the composite specimen at 95±2 ◦C for 30 min

3. Remove the composite specimen, rinse it twice in distilled water and then in cold,

running tap water for 10 min, and squeeze it. Dry it by hanging in air.

Assessment: Assess the change in color of the specimen and the staining of the

adjacent fabrics with the Grey scale.

For the above test methods I have used grey scale for Grading the colorfastness.

Figure – 9: Grey Scale

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3.10: Color fastness to light

Method: ISO 105 B02

Equipment and Accessories:

1. Q sun B02

2. Filters-window IR

3. RH

4. 420 nm sensors

5. CR-20/420/CR-2 TUV

6. CT 202 / IBP

7. Sample holder ISO

8. Specimen holder converter kit (XR-11541-K)

9. Metal mask for ISO ½ height (XR-11315-K)

10. Blue wool SDC for ISO

11. Red azoic humidity control fabric

12. Grey scale (ISO) from SDC

13. Controlled viewing box

14. Conditioning room/chamber

15. Good eye sight × 3 persons

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Figure – 10: Q-Sun BO2

Figure – 11:Blue Wool

Apparatus:

1. Xenon air cooled lamp

2. Model Q-sun B02 of Q-Lab Corporation USA

Specification: Can be provided on request as per 105-B02

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Calibrate the machine with CR 20 for irradiance: Frequency every time we start a new

test.

Calibrate the CT 202/IBP as per manual frequency

Exposure Condition:

1. Normal humidity

2. Extreme low humidity

3. Extreme high humidity

Adjust effective humidity: Take humidity test control fabric (Size ≥ 45mm × 100mm)

to be backed with white card board.

Table 2: Adjust

Normal Extreme low humidity Extreme high humidity

Blue Wool L5 Blue Wool L6 Blue Wool L3

Size equal to humidity cloth to be backed with white card board

1. Place same specimen holder (Remark take two each sample of each test for

verification).

2. Rest of the specimen holders filled with white card board

3. Set machine: 1.1 W/m2 at 420nm W/ m2 at 300-400nm

4. RH as per condition chart

Table – 2; RH as per condition chart

Normal Extreme low humidity Extreme high

humidity

RH 40% 0-15% (take 10%) 85 %

Black panel temperature 47˚C 62˚C 42˚C

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5. Start the machine and run approximately 20 hrs then start and evaluate Blue Wool

and Red azoic cloth target both simultaneously fade to grey scale 4.

6. Evaluate after every 6hrs till above reached.

7. If at any evaluation point, we find red azoic cloth has fade more than grey scale 4.

but the blue Wool was not stop the test, start whole procedure again with 5% less

humidity

8. Perform this procedure till target is reached, record humidity

9. This is the set point for running the test in desired humidity condition (Normal, Low,

High)

Exposure Condition: Start the test under the desired condition

a. Set RH as per determined in previous step for desired humidity condition eg: 40%

for normal humidity condition.

b. Black panel temperature and Irradiance as per condition chart

c. Chamber air temperature: No adjustment

d. Time 20 hrs

Preparation of the specimen (Method-2):

1. Large number of specimen for simultaneous testing against one set of Blue wool.

2. Put AB mask

3. Inspect periodically.

4. When Change in Blue Wool reference 3 is equal to Grey scale 4-5, Inspect the

specimen and compare their change in color with Blue Wool reference 1, 2 and 3

for similar change mark the blue Wool reference number for that specimen. This is

preliminary.

5. Continue till Blue Wool reference no 4 changes to grey scale 4-5, then fix this cover

CD, Overlapping cover AB.

6. Continue to expose till Blue Wool 6 gets a change of grey scale 4-5, fix final cover

EF

7. Expose until

a. Blue Wool reference 7 has a change scale 4

b. All specimens have a grey scale change 3 or less at least one specimen has

grey scale 3.

Remarks: For white or optical Brightening specimen please see original test for

different guideline.

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Chapter-4; Result and Discussion

Sir, Here I shall Attached my Test Reports that you have already seen.

4.1: Reactive Brill Yellow 4GL Features

Appearance: pale yellow powder

Color: Lemon yellow

Applications: It is used in cellulosic fibre. It is suitable in both dyeing & printing of

cellulosic fibre

Special Features:

It is mainly vinyl sulphone type reactive dye.

Excellent color fastness.

Used in light varieties tri chromatic one.

Exhaustion rate is good.

It is also suitable for CPB Dyeing.

Build up & Fixation curve report and Fastness test report of this color are as follows

Build up Curve of Reactive Brill. Yellow 4GL:

The buildup property of Reactive Brill. Yellow 4GL is excellent according to curve.

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Fixation curve of Reactive Brill. Yellow 4GL:

The Fixation curve of Reactive Brill. Yellow 4GL is excellent according to curve.

Table-3: Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Acid)

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

2.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

3.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

4.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

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Table – 4; Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Alkali)

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

2.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

3.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

4.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

So, I can say the colorfastness to perspiration of Reactive Brill. Yellow 4GL is excellent.

Table – 5; Color Fastness to Wash Result

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

1.0% 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

2.0% 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

3.0% 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

4.0% 4 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

So, I can say the colorfastness to wash of Reactive Brill. Yellow 4GL is excellent.

Table – 6; Color Fastness to Rubbing

Shade% Dry Rub Wet Rub

3.0% 5 3-4

4.0% 5 3

So, I can say the colorfastness to rubbing of Reactive Brill. Yellow 4GL is quite good. Dry

rub result is excellent but wet rub is not so good.

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Table – 7; Color Fastness to Light:

Shade% Grade

0.5% 3-4

1.0% 3-4

2.0% 4

3.0% 5

4.0% 5

So, I can say the colorfastness to light of Reactive Brill. Yellow 4GL is quite good in light

shade very good in deep shade.

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4.2: Reactive Red 2BF Features

Appearance: Orange red powder or granular.

Colors: Red.

Applications: It is used in cellulosic fibre. It is suitable in both dyeing & printing of

cellulosic fibre

Special Features:

It is mainly Bi functional type reactive dye.

Very good exhaustion rate.

It is also suitable for CPB dyeing.

Good Perspiration, Washing, Rubbing fastness.

Better Printing Result.

Build up & Fixation curve report and Fastness test report of this color are as follows

Build up Curve of Reactive Red 2BF:

The buildup property of Reactive Red 2BF is excellent according to curve.

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Fixation curve of Reactive Red 2BF

The Fixation curve of Reactive Red 2BF is excellent according to curve.

Table – 8; Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Acid)

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

2.0% 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4 2-3 4-5

3.0% 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 3-4 2 4-5

4.0% 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 3 2 4-5

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Table – 9; Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Alkali)

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

2.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 2-3 4-5

3.0% 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 3-4 2-3 4-5

4.0% 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 3 2 4-5

So, I can say the colorfastness to perspiration of Reactive Red 2BF contains bad staining

result in deep shade but no change in color.

Table – 10; Color Fastness to Wash Result

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

2.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

3.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

So, I can say the colorfastness to wash of Reactive Red 2BF is excellent.

Table – 11; Color Fastness to Rubbing:

Shade% Dry Rub Wet Rub

3.0% 5 3-4

4.0% 5 2-3

So, I can say the colorfastness to rubbing of Reactive Red 2BF is quite good. Dry rub

result is excellent but wet rub is not so good.

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Table – 12; Color Fastness to Light:

Shade% Grade

0.5% 3

1.0% 3-4

2.0% 4

3.0% 4-5

4.0% 4-5

So, I can say the colorfastness to light of Reactive Red 2BF is quite good in light shade

very good in deep shade.

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4.3 Reactive N. Blue FBXN Features

Appearance: Dark blue powder

Colors: Greenish blue.

Applications: It is used in cellulosic fibre for both dyeing & printing.

Special Features:

Can be used for polyester / cotton, polyester / viscose fabric in one bath dyeing.

High solubility.

High chlorine bleaching fastness.

It can also be used for discharging.

Trichromatic color in the species.

Build up & Fixation curve report and Fastness test report of this color are as follows

Build up Curve of Reactive N. Blue FBXN

The buildup property of Reactive N. Blue FBXN is excellent according to curve.

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Fixation curve of Reactive N. Blue FBXN:

The Fixation curve of Reactive N. Blue FBXN is excellent according to curve.

Table – 13; Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Acid)

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4 4 4-5 4 3 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4 3-4 4-5

2.0% 4-5 3-4 3-4 4 3-4 2 4-5

3.0% 4-5 4 3-4 4 3-4 2 4

4.0% 4-5 4 4-5 4-5 4 2 4

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Table – 14; Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Alkali)

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4 3-4 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4 4-5 4 3 4-5

2.0% 4-5 3-4 3-4 4 3-4 2-3 4

3.0% 4-5 4 3-4 4 3-4 1-3 4

4.0% 4-5 4 4 4-5 4 1-2 4

So, I can say the colorfastness to perspiration of Reactive N. Blue FBXN contains bad

staining result but no change in color.

Table – 15; Color Fastness to Wash Result

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

2.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 4-5

3.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 3-4 4-5

So, I can say the colorfastness to wash of Reactive N. Blue FBXN is quite good. Color

change grading is excellent but staining on cotton is not so good.

Table – 16; Color Fastness to Rubbing:

Shade% Dry Rub Wet Rub

3.0% 5 3-4

4.0% 5 2-3

So, I can say the colorfastness to rubbing of Reactive N. Blue FBXN is quite good. Dry rub

result is excellent but wet rub is not so good.

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Table – 17; Color Fastness to Light:

Shade% Grade

0.5% 3

1.0% 4

2.0% 4

3.0% 4-5

4.0% 4-5

So, I can say the colorfastness to light of Reactive N. Blue FBXN is quite good in light

shade very good in deep shade.

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4.4 Reactive Yellow 3RS Features

Appearance: Orange powder and granular.

Colors: Reddish Yellow.

Applications: It is mainly used for cellulosic fiber for both dyeing and printing. It is also

suitable for CPB dyeing.

Special Features:

Exhaustion &Fixation rate with same speed.

Can be used for cotton polyester or polyester viscose blended fibre.

Even with good permeability.

Has Excellent Reproducibility.

Staining on nylon is good.

Build up & Fixation curve report and Fastness test report of this color are as follows

Build up Curve of Reactive Yellow 3RS

The buildup property of Reactive Yellow 3RS is excellent according to curve.

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Fixation curve of Reactive Yellow 3RS:

The Fixation curve of Reactive Yellow 3RS is excellent according to curve.

Table – 18; Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Acid)

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

2.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

3.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

4.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

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Table – 19; Color fastness to Perspiration Result (Alkali)

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

2.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

3.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

4.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

So, I can say the colorfastness to perspiration of Reactive Yellow 3RS is excellent.

Table – 20; Color Fastness to Wash Result

Shade% Color

Change

Staining

Wool Acrylic polyester Nylon Cotton Diacetate

0.5% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

1.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

2.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5

3.0% 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4-5 4 4-5

So, I can say the colorfastness to wash of Reactive Yellow 3RS is excellent.

Table – 21; Color Fastness to Rubbing:

Shade% Dry Rub Wet Rub

3.0% 5 4

4.0% 5 3

So, I can say the colorfastness to rubbing of Reactive Yellow 3RS is quite good. Dry rub

result is excellent but wet rub is not so good.

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Table – 22; Color Fastness to Light:

Shade% Grade

0.5% 4-5

1.0% 4-5

2.0% 4-5

3.0% 5

4.0% 5

So, I can say the colorfastness to light of Reactive Yellow 3RS is good in both light and

deep shade.

After observing, all fastness result, I can say the both the yellow 4GL & 3RS are excellent

in fastness, in both light and deep shade, others two dyes Navy Blue FBXN & Red 2BF

fastness is good.

If I combine the all four dyes build up curve then I got the following curve

Comparison of K/S Vs Concentration Curve All Dyes at a glance

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If I combine the all four dyes Fixation curve then I got the following curve

Comparison of fixation All Dyes at a glance

After observing the buildup curve and fixation curve of these four color I can find that the

curve of those color are very similar, so these dyes can be used in combination, they will

be compatible to each other in dyeing bath.

In case of light fastness if anyone use medium to deep percentage of each shade any one

can get better light fastness but in case of other fastness like wash, rubbing & perspiration

color change result will be good, but can get poor staining on some fibre. So in this case

we have to take another step to increase the fastness of these colors. After dyeing wash

off has to be good and can be used fixing agent. Sometime silicone softener increase

rubbing fastness of some color, but fixation agent degrades the result of light fastness. In

case of light shade fastness to light result will poor, according to the test result, but

fastness to wash, rubbing & perspiration result will be definitely good. If anyone wants to

get better light fastness in light shade then he has to use those dyes which show better

light fastness in light shade percentage.

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Chapter-5; Conclusion

5.1: Pronouncement of this thesis:

Dyeing industry should find out the compatibility of all dyes before use. This can be

achieved by collecting reliable information from the dye supplier, or ideally by checking the

compatibility of each dye at least once. When selecting compatible dyes, the dye manager

should consider the full cost of the dyeing process and not just the cost of the dyes. A

recipe using compatible dyes may be slightly more expensive in terms of the price of the

dye but may be less costly when the overall cost of the dyeing process is considered.

While checking the compatibility of reactive dyes, less amount of salt should be used

otherwise initial uptake of the dye will be higher than the usual. It means the maximum

exhaustion will occur within the first 30 minutes and hence it can hamper the uniform

fixation of dyes. While selecting dyes it is sometimes difficult to select compatible dyes if

little information is given by a dyestuff supplier. It is the utmost duty of dye manager or

production manager to select the best dyes for his production. Various parameters to be

considered including: dye cost, quality of dyes, dyeing process, and shade matching.

There are various types of dyes for many textile fibres; for example, reactive dyes, vat

dyes for cotton, acid dyes for wool, silk and polyamide fibres. Cotton reactive dyes such as

vinyl sulphone or mono chlorotriazine have a different reactive group which will require

distinctive application conditions. A knowledgeable dyer will be able to recognize the

reactive group on the dye molecule from its chemical structure and be able to specify the

correct application conditions for the specific dye and be able to select compatible dyes for

3 dye combination shades

Colour strength should be measured to get the approximate value of fixation. This is

extremely useful as the fixation tells how much dye is fixing to the fabric and how much is

being wasted. The dye supplier should be able to provide the industries with a figure (or

range) for optimal fixation.

At last I want to say I try my label best to perform my job perfectly. I have done my all tests

in Dysin-Chem Ltd Application Laboratory and Testing Laboratory. As I had to do my

office duty and my thesis work both at the same times, sometimes, I have to go for

customer call, for this reason, may be some mistake can be happen. But my concern was

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mainly to do my test perfectly. I can say those I had done in this thesis work these data

are correct. If I have done any mistake, please try to consider my mistakes.

I have find out the buildup curve of some reactive dyes. I have found that every dyes

strength increases when the shade percentage increase and their relation is very smooth.

The buildup curve of each dye is very smooth, so I can say these dyes contain very good

build up property. When we observe the fixation curve, we found that when time goes

dyes fixation increase smoothly. The Fixation curves of these dyes are also very smooth.

And their fixation rate is very closer. So they can be used in combined shade. These dyes

will compatible to each other.

I can also say these dyes will give better result in combination shade and must reduce

dyeing problem, which problems mainly come from dyes compatibility. I have also find out

the wet fastness of these dyes in different fastness. In light shade the wet fastness result

of each dye are super but slightly poor in dark shade. After observing each result, I can

say in light shade if anyone use these dyes they will get better result but in deep shade

may get poor result. So if anyone wants to increase result then he has to take necessary

steps to increase fastness. I also find out light fastness result of each dyes in different

shade. In light shade light fastness result will be poor, but in deep shade anyone definitely

get better fastness result. For getting better light fastness result in light shade have to

select those dyes which show better light fastness result in light shade percentage.

5.2: Termination:

At last I can say, yes, optimum recipes can be achieved but require the evaluation,

implementation and control and monitoring of various dyeing parameters; this will include,

dye selection, measuring the exhaustion and fixation of dyes, monitoring dyeing

temperatures, pH, liquor ratio and time. In addition to controlling the dyeing process,

careful attention must be paid to the quality and storage of dyes and chemicals in order to

avoid variation in materials between batches. Careful monitoring of lab to bulk recipes

needs to be undertaken together with establishing good communication between the lab

and the plant.

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References:

1. http://articles.textileclass.com

2. http://books.google.com.bd/books/about/Preparation_and_dyeing_of_synthetic_fibr.ht

ml

3. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reactive_dye#History

4. http://ojs.cnr.ncsu.edu/index.php/JTATM/article

5. http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/printable.php?id=130

6. http://www.scribd.com/doc/46604169/Theory-of-Reactive-Dyeing

7. http://www.textiletodaybd.com/magazine/printable.php?id=249

8. http://www.dyespigments.net

9. http://www.thaiscience.info/journals/Article

10. http://articles.textileclass.com/textile-research-journal-and-publication

11. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dyeing

12. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reactive_dye

13. http://wiki.answers.com

14. http://textilelearner.blogspot.com

15. http://textechworld.com

16. Compatibility Testing of Reactive Dyes.

17. ISO Test Method Manual

18. Basic Principle of Textile Coloration by Broadbent. (Chapter 11, Page 197-214;

Chapter 16, Page 332-353; Chapter 21, Page 427-459, Chapter 24, Page 527 - 541)

19. Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibers by E.R Trotman. (Chapter 1, Page

1-10; Chapter 22, Page 540-564).

20. Class Notes of my Honorable Teachers.