Combined Guide to the Camino Primitivo and the Camino Finisterre/Muxia

Oviedo to Santiago and on to Finisterre & Muxia compiled by Liz Brandt

  

  

    

Camino Finisterre & Muxia

2    

I compliled this Guide from many different sources for my June 2015 Camino. The sources listed below were the most valuable and contain much additional information. Anyone planning to walk the Camino Primitivo should consult them. This document is definitely not a substitute for these guides. I selected, combined and abbreviated the information my husband and I were most interested in, and also combined info for the Primitivo with Muxia and Finisterre to make it possible to carry a single lightweight guide while walking and to make it unnecessary to access the internet.

Dave Whitson & Laura Perazzoli, The Northern Caminos: The Caminos Norte, Primitivo and Ingles (Cicerone

Press 2015)

Chris Lennie & Eric Walker, The Caminos de Norte F: Camino Primitivo (CSJ, London 2013) available at http://www.csj.org.uk/product/los-caminos-del-norte-f-camino-primitivo/

John Brierley, A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago (Camino Guides 2014)

John Brierley, A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino Finisterre (Camino Guides 2014)

Allison Raju, Finisterre (CSJ, London, 2009)(with online updates) available at:

http://www.csj.org.uk/product/finisterre/

Gronz.com -- http://www.gronze.com/

Eroski Consumer -- http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/

Mundicamino -- http://www.mundicamino.com/en/index.cfm

Forewalk: The Way of St. James -- http://santiago.forwalk.org/en/?ref=logo

And much wonderful advice from the members of the caminodesantiago.me forum!

Printing Instructions: I made this guide in Word 2010 using the Word booklet formatting/printing features. The Word document is too big to upload to the caminodesantiagoforum.me so it appears there as a .pdf. I am not sure how to print the .pdf as a booklet! If you would like to receive the word document so you can edit and print it, please email me at LizB82657@gmail.com and I will be happy to send it to you. To print the Word document as a booklet, you will need to select U.S. legal size paper (11 in. x 14 in.) and you will need to use a printer that prints on both sides of the page automatically. Open the document in Word, select print and choose the following options: Landscape, print on both sides (flip on short edge). Your printer should automatically print the pages in the correct order so they can be folded or cut in the middle to make an 5.5” x 7” booklet.

  

3 Combined Guide to the Camino Primitivo and the Camino

Finisterre/Muxia Oviedo to Santiago and on to Finisterre & Muxia

Note on distances: Guides vary. Distances for Stages 1-11 are based on the Eroski site which seemed to be the most conservative. Stages 12 & 13 and Stages 14-18 are based on Brierley Guides for the Camino Frances and for the Camino Finisterre. Getting to Oviedo: Closest airport is Asturias Airport. It is a +/- 40 minute bus ride from Oviedo. ALSA Bus serves the airport and the cost of a ride into Oviedo in fall 2014 was 8€. Bus terminal at the airport is outside the arrivals area slightly to the right and busses depart on the hour. The bus terminal in Oviedo is a 10 minute walk from the city center. It is also possible to travel by ALSA bus from Santiago, A Coruna, Bilbao or Madrid. Madrid, Bilbao and Santiago have international airports. Madrid, Santiago, Bilbao and A Coruna are served by Renfe (the Spanish National train). There is direct train service on Renfe from Madrid to Oviedo (about 5 hours). FEVE train service runs between Bilbao and Oviedo. ALSA: http://www.alsa.es/en/ Renfe: http://www.renfe.com/EN/viajeros/ FEVE: http://www.feve.es/es/

Brief Summary of how the stages in this guide: We walked moderate days of approximately 25km whenever possible. The stages can be divided in many different ways, However there are fewer albergues on the Camino Primitivo than on the Camino Frances

and most experienced walkers recommend some additional planning ahead to avoid very long days!

Camino Primitivo

Oviedo to to Santiago = 314.2km Stage 1: Oviedo to Venta de Escamplero 12.8 (via

Naranco @ 16.7) Stage 2: Venta de Escamplero to Cornellana 25.7 Stage 3: Cornellana to Bodenaya 20 Stage 4: Bodenaya to Campiello 26.3 Stage 5: Campiello to Berducedo via Hospitales 27 Alt. Stage 5: Campiello to Berducedo via Pola de

Allende 31.7 Stage 6: Berducedo to Grandas de Salime 21.4 Stage 7: Grandas de Salime to Padrón 28.1 Stage 8: Padrón to O Cádavo Baleria 23.4 Stage 9: O Cádavo to Lugo 30.5 Stage 10: Lugo to Ferreira 26.9 Stage 11: Ferreira to Boente 26.2 Stage 12: Boente to Santa Irene 19.2 Stage 13: Santa Irene to Santiago 22.8 km

Camino Muxia/Finisterre Santiago to Finnistarre via Muxia = 116.2 km.

Stage 14 Santiago to Negreira 22.4 km Stage 15: Negreira to Santa Marina. 20.5 km Stage 16: [Finisterre First] Santa Marina to Cee 30.9 Alt. Stage 16: [Muxia first] Santa Marina to Dumbria 22.3 Stage 17: [Finisterre first] Cee to Finisterre 12.9 km Alt. Stage 17: [Muxía first] Dumbría to Muxía 19.6 Stage 18: Finisterre to Muxia 28.5 Alt. Stage 18: Muxia to Finisterre 28.5

4 Oviedo General Info: The Main Tourist Info Center is at the Plaza del Fontan at Plaza de Constitucion 4. There also is a tourist information center at the corner of the Campo San Francisco. Pilgrim Passports are available at the Cathedral, the main tourist office (not sure about the center at Campo San Francisco) or the Municipal Albergue for €2.50. A street plan is be available from the tourist office and will be helpful! Lodging & Services: Albergue de El Salvador de Oviedo (6/30, muni. 5€, microwave only, no washer/dryer, no internet; 985 22 85 25, was being remodeled in June); Residencia-Albergue Villa Cecilia (2/12, private, 10€ bunks, 15-20€ ind./dob., kitchen, wifi, 618 725 561, older bad reviews, new owners as of May ‘14); Albergue La Peregrina (7/32, private, 8€, microwave, wifi). Other lodging: **Hotel Vetusta (C. Covendonga 2-33002, www.hotelvetusta.com, 985-22-22-29); **Hostel Arcos (@25-30€, www.hostal-arcos.com, C. Magdalena 3, 985-21-47-73, cont. break. 3 €,); **Hostel Romero (C. de Uria 36-38, 22-32€, http://www.hostalromero.net , 985-22-75-91); Hostal Alvarez (€25, 985 252 673 hostalalverezoviedo@hotmail.com, http://www.hostalalvarez.com/); ATM; Restorante El Fartuquin; **Hotel Vetusta Coffee Shop. Also many restaurants on Calle Gatona (follow directions for the Norte in front of the Cathedral), Market near main tourist office. Sites of interest: Plaza de Alfonso II. 18th C Campsagrado Palace (now a courthouse), 16th C Heredia Palace (also known

as Valdecarzana Palace, seat of the regional government), 17th C Palacio de Toreno (now the public library), Garden of the Reyes Caudillos, 13th C Balesquida Chapel, 15th C Casa de la Rua (at #15, oldest house in Oviedo).

Plaza Mayor. Town Hall w/ clock tower & 16th C Church of San Isadoro Cathedral de Santiago. Construction of the Cathedral begun in 9th Century, 3€, (the original part is the

Camara Santa and Capilla de San Miguel within it). The Camera Santa houses holy relics brought to Oviedo from the Holy Land including the Sudarium of Ovideo (reputedly the bloodstained head shroud of Christ), a silver reliquary believed to contain the virgin’s milk and one of the 30 pieces of gold used by Judas, and the Cruz de la Victoria carried at Covadonga (the pivitol battle he lead against the Moors). Hours at the Camera Santa are M-F 10 to 1 & 4-7, S 10-1 & 4-6, closed Su & Holidays.

San Julián de los Prados (pre-Romanesque church, UNESCO World Heritage site) includes stucco paintings with roman themes. Built in 9th C

San Tirso el Real on the corner opposite the cathedral also dates to the 8th century but was substantially restored in the 17th C. King Alfonse II is buried at here.

La Foncalada is a 9th C fountain – example of an early middle age civic building. Naranco sites. Church of Santa Maria de Naranco (pre-Romanesque & almost perfectly preserved); San

Miquel de Lilo (pre-Romanesque w/Visigothic influences). Note – it is generally only possible to visit the inside of these monuments with a Spanish only guide (possibly open more broadly on Mondays). Even w/ guide, time to wander on own is possible. Opening hours for the monuments are: 1 Oct - 31 March: Tues-Sat, 10-2:30; Sunday and Monday -- 10 - 12:30. 1 April to 30 Sept: Tues to Sat -- 9:30- 1 pm and 3:30 - 7 pm; Sunday and Monday -- 9:30 - 1:00 pm.

Directions for leaving Oviedo (not via Naranco): Note: the yellow arrows in Oviedo can be VERY confusing. There are arrows leading northwest back to Avila on the Camino del Norte, arrows leading into town from the Camino Salvador to the south as well as the Primitivo arrows coming into town from Valdedios toward the northeast and leaving town toward Grau (Grado), southwest. A street plan may be available from the Tourist office. This will help getting out of town without getting lost. Begin at the cathedral. Go the left, on the Calle Schultz. Follow the shells in the pavement, and then turn right onto the Calle San Juan. Calle San Juan takes you out onto the Calle Jovellanos Cross Calle Jovellanos

53 Alternate Stage 18: Muxía to Finisterre. 28.5 km (plus 7 km round trip to Cape Finisterre)

8.1 Morquintian Fountain

3.9 Frixe

2.4 Lires Other Lodging: **Casa Rural As Eiras (10-25 €, breakfast, wifi, 981 74 81 80, http://www.ruralaseiras.com/).

Bar As Eiras, **Bar Playa (at beach)

Must get Passport stamped at Bar to get Muxiana and/or Fisterrianna certificates. Alternative way along the Lires estuary adds about 2.5k; **Bar Playa along the route)

7.1 Castrexe 4.5 San Salvador Rosto Beach only 400km

3.1 Arenal 1.1 Finisterre Albergue (36, Muni., 6€, kitchen, washer/dryer, 981-74-07-81,

alberguefisterra@hotmail.com); **Albergue Por Fin (11, Priv. 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, 636-76-47-26, albergueporfin@gmail.com); Albergue O Encontro (5, Priv., 15€, kitchen, washer, 696-50-33-63 / 981-74-03-69); Albergue do Sol (18 Priv. 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, meals, 981-74-06-55 / 617-56-86-48, alberguedosol@hotmail.com); Albergue Finistellae (20 Priv. 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, breakfast, 637-82-12-96, reservas@finistellae.com); Albergue de Paz (26 Priv., 10€, microwave, washer/dryer, 628-90-36-93 / 981-74-03-32); **Albergue do Mar (28, private, 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, breakfast, 981-74-02-04, alberguedomar@gmail.com); Albergue Arasolis (16 private, 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, 638-32-68-69 (W-App) / 981-71-21-43 / 679-35-24-68 (W-App), alberguearasolis@yahoo.com); Albergue Mar de Rostro (23, private 10€, kitchen, washer, breakfast 2.5€, 637-10-77-65 (W-App) / 981-74-03-62, alberguemarderostro@hotmail.com); Albergue Cabo da Vila (28, private, 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, breakfast, 607-73-54-74 / 981-74-04-54, alberguecabodavila@gmail.com); Albergue Mar de Fora (11, private, 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, breakfast, 686-93-90-79). Other lodging: **Hostal Mariquito (25-30 € ind. / 36-48 € dob. 981-74-00-44); Hotel Áncora (+25 € ind. / +32 € dob. 981-74-07-91); Hotel Finisterre (30-40 € ind. / 42-50 € dob. 981-74-00-00); Alojamiento Mirador Fin da Terra (+20 € ind. / +35 € dob. 648-91-89-29).

ATM, All Services. 7 Cape

Finisterre Other Lodging: Hotel O Semáforo (Part of the lighthouse, 50-60 € ind. / 95-110 € dob. 981-72-58-69)

Bar  

52

 

5 in order to get on Calle La Luna. Calle La Luna leads to Calle Covadonga, and from there to the Calle Melquiades Álvarea. Then it becomes the Avenida de la Independencia, which is also the N-634 at this point. Turn left and pass the Asturias and Cervantes Towers. Cross the pedestrian street Príncipe de Asturias (known by people in Oviedo as the Plaza de la Losa). This brings you to the Calle Samuel Sánchez, and continues on to Calle de la Argañosa. After a stretch on this road, turn right next to the Bar El Choque, andcross over the FEVE train tracks. After the tracks, there may be construction, but the route turns to the right on the Calle Bermudo I El Diácono. Then it goes to the left onto Calle José María Fernandez Buelta, and then to the right on the Calle de Illas, which comes out onto the Avenida de la Florida. In the roundabout that´s about 300 m along, there is a bronze sculpture of Santiago the pilgrim. After a children´s playground take the street Muros de Nalón, which leads to the local road that goes up to the village of San Lázaro de Paniceres. Directions from Oviedo to Naranco sites: By Bus: Take the A2 from Calle Uria to Naranco and the A1 back. Cost is €1.05 each way. Walking: 3.7km from the Cathedral. The route is uphill for over 3km and involves many stairs I had dirctions previously but we couldn’t follow them. The Oviedo tourist office has a town map that is easy to follow to walk to Naranco. Directions to rejoin the Primtivo from the Naranco sites w/o backtracking: From the grass field North of San Miguel de Lillo (the church at the top) (the North side is the steep uphill side) starts a path upwards in NW direction. . The path is washed out and leaves from the end of the field nearest the road. After about 200 meters it joins an asphalted road, which runs parallel to the Oviedo Sports Grounds (on your left). You'll pass its entrance and carry on straight down the main road for about 1km until this turns sharp left. There is a bus shelter/stop. Turn right and cross the village Ules (there is a bar here) in the direction of El Llano, and straight on until Lampaya. About 300 meters after the few Lampaya houses there descends a track to the left. If you miss it, carry on and turn left when at a T-junction and you'll eventually come out at the same spot as the track. Follow the road until a little chapel on your right. This is Llampaxuga where the two paths meet. You should have joined the official Camino towards Loriana and follow the yellow arrows. Food Notes (also scattered throughout guide): Tarta de Queso -- cheesecake Sidra – local cider poured from above the head of the bartender to the glass at waist height to oxygenate and put fizz in. Orojo/Orujo or Caña – local spirit that is strong but can be flavored with herbs, honey or coffee. Distilled from grape skins. Should still have the bouquet of the grapes and should not smell like pharmacy alcohol. The best is from the Betanzos area in Northern Galicia. Tarta de Fonsagrada – almond sponge cake -- a bit like a spoon-able creamy Tarta de Santiago Cabrales Cheese – strong native Asturian blue cheese. Also known as Covadonga Blue Cheese La Peral Cheese – creamier and less pungent (than cabrales) blue cheese native to Asturias Fabada or Pote Asturiano – Asturian stew usually containing pork sausage such as chosco, white beans and vegetables (cabbage and potatoes). It can also contain chestnuts and blood sausage

6 Chosco Tineo – traditional Asturian pork sausage, smoked and containing sirloin and tongue and seasoned with paprika Morcilla Asturianas – traditional Asturian blood sausage prepared with onion, bacon and paprika, smoked. Commonly an ingredient in Asturian bean stews. Seafood and shellfish in Santiago Albariño. Excellent Galician white wine. Boños Preñaos. Bread stuffed with chorizo Recommendations: Where Albergues, other lodging, or Bars/Restaurants/Cafes have been recommended by members of the caminodesantiago.me forum or by CSJ, I have indicated with a double asterisk **

51 Stage 18: Finisterre to Muxía. 28.5 km 1.1 Arenal

3.1 San Salvador Rosto Beach only 400km

4.5 Castrexe Alternative way along the Lires estuary adds about 2.5k; Bar Playa along the route)

4.7 Lires Other Lodging: **Casa Rural As Eiras (10-25 €, breakfast, wifi, 981 74 81 80, http://www.ruralaseiras.com/). Bar As Eiras, **Bar Playa (at beach) Must get Passport stamped at Bar to get Muxiana and/or Fisterrianna certificates. Alternative way along the Lires estuary adds about 2.5k; Bar Playa along the route) – highly recommended by p2000!

2.4 Frixe

3.9 Morquintián Fountain

7 Muxia Albergue Muxia (32 Muni. 6€, kitchen, 610 26 43 25, 620 11 29 02, http://www.concellomuxia.com/ga/web/index.php?mod=int&tip=1&lug=51); Albergue @Muxia (2/41 private, 11€, Kitchen, breakfast, washer/dryer, wifi, 651 627 768, 609 615 533, 981 74 21 18, info@albergueamuxia.com); Albergue Delphin (1/15 Priv. 6€); **Albergue Bela Muxia (36 Priv. 12€, kitchen, vending machines, washer/dryer, wifi, some double rooms, 687 79 82 22, albergue@belamuxia.com); Albergue Da Costa (3/10, priv., 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi some double rooms, 608 89 52 32 http://www.dacostamuxia.com/). Other Lodging: **Hotel/Restaurante La Cruz (981 74 20 84 / 661 46 07 16). Restaurante Hotel de Encanto A de LoLo (40-45€ ind./60-70€ dob. breakfast, laundry service, wifi, 981 74 24 22, http://www.hoteladelolo.com/). Santuario de Virxe Barca; 12C Romanesque San Xulian de Moraime (2 stunning decorated dorways); 14C Igrexa de Santa Maria (coastal gothic)

50 7

 

8 Stage 1: Oviedo to Escamplero (via the Naranco Churches: 16.7 km): 12.8 from Oviedo @2k off route

Santa Maria del Naranco

No services

Church of Santa Maria de Naranco 9th C (pre-Romanesque & almost perfectly preserved)(Once part of summer palace of Ramiro I); San Miquel de Lilo 9th C (court chapel, pre-Romanesque w/Visigothic influences). Note – it is generally only possible to visit the inside of these monuments with a Spanish only guide (possibly open more broadly on Mondays). Even w/ guide, time to wander on own is possible. Opening hours for the monuments are: 1 Oct - 31 March: Tues-Sat, 10-2:30; Sunday and Monday -- 10 - 12:30. 1 April to 30 Sept: Tues to Sat -- 9:30- 1 pm and 3:30 - 7 pm; Sunday and Monday -- 9:30 - 1:00 pm.

4.7 (from Oviedo; @7.4 via Naranco)

San Lázaro de Paniceres

Bar El Agiuila Negra

Ruins of ancient pilgrim hospital documented to 12th C

2.5 Lampaxuga Fountain

Capilla del Carmen (sello in niche by church – although it was missing inJune 2015); Stations of the cross visible to the L of the Camino near the church. About 1 km after the chapel shaded picnic area with pool to soak feet

1.7 Lloriana Park w/ bench at beginning of town; Water fountain by church Santa Maria de Lloriana, 12th C

Bolguina Bar La Bolguina (w/sello);

3.9 Venta del Escamplero

Albergue Municipal del Escamplero (1/26, muni., 4 €, key at Bar El Tendejode or at restaurant/shop, kitchen, no internet, no washing, 985 79 90 05, very basic, mixed recent reviews); Restaurante Tendejode may also have rooms.

Café Bar El Escamplero, Restorante Casa Concha; **Restaurante El Tendejode Fernando; Shop/Carniceria

Has had a pilgrim hospital documented to 978

49 Alternate Stage 17: [Muxía first] Dumbría to Muxía 19.6 (Plus additional 3km round trip to Santuario de Virxe) 3 Trasufre Our Lady of Espino Chapel

2.3 Senande **Bar A Coxa

4.5 Quintáns Other Lodging: Pension Plaza (25/35€ dob., breakfast, wifi, 981 75 04 52; 667 31 13 10, http://www.plazapension.com/). Restaurante/Café/Bar Plaza. Capilla de San Isidro Labrador y Santa Maria de la Cabeza 17th C

1.2 Ozon Albergue San Martino Café/Bar San Martino; Possible private Albergue here? Vestiges of the monestary Igrexa de San Martiño

4.2 Os Muiños Café/Bar Paris Igrexa de San Xulian XII

1.6 Capela San Roque

Rest area

2.8 Muxía Albergue Muxia (32 Muni. 6€, kitchen, 610 26 43 25, 620 11 29 02, http://www.concellomuxia.com/ga/web/index.php?mod=int&tip=1&lug=51); Albergue @Muxia (2/41 private, 11€, Kitchen, breakfast, washer/dryer, wifi, 651 627 768, 609 615 533, 981 74 21 18, info@albergueamuxia.com); Albergue Delphin (1/15 Priv. 6€); **Albergue Bela Muxia (36 Priv. 12€, kitchen, vending machines, washer/dryer, wifi, some double rooms, 687 79 82 22, albergue@belamuxia.com); Albergue Da Costa (3/10, priv., 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi some double rooms, 608 89 52 32 http://www.dacostamuxia.com/). Other Lodging: **Hotel/Restaurante La Cruz (981 74 20 84 / 661 46 07 16). Restaurante Hotel de Encanto A de LoLo (40-45€ ind./60-70€ dob. breakfast, laundry service, wifi, 981 74 24 22, http://www.hoteladelolo.com/). 12th C Romanesque San Xulian de Moraime (2 stunning decorated dorways); 14th C Igrexa de Santa Maria (coastal gothic)

3 (round trip)

Santuario Santuario de Virxe Barca

48 9

10 Stage 2: Venta del Escamplero to Cornallana: 25.7 km 

4.3 Premoño Picnic Area; Bar Feliciano (appeared closed in June 2015); **Bar/Tienda Casa Dylsia (about 1km after Premono, signed on the Camino, open at 8:30) La Ermita de Santa Ana and Casona de la Portalada remains (15th C) from pilgrim’s hospital active until 18th C; Roman Baths of Santa Eulalia de Valduno (300m off route 1.1km after town).

2.7 Paladin Fountain (20m off route town center); Bar L’Arache 2.3km after town. 2.3 L’Arache Bar L’Arache

.5 Puente de Peñaflor

ATM; Bar/Restaurante Casa Aurima; store Portions of the Romanesque church remain – arch, presbytery, barrel vault and columns. Historic Romanesque bridge over the River Nalón; site of Peninsular War battles

3.3 Grau (Grado)

Albergue de Peregrinos Grado (2/16, muni., donativo, washer, kitchen); Hotel Auto Bar (20-30 €, 985-75-26-78); Hotel El Lacayo de Sestiello (25-62€, 985-75-35-66). Hotel/Restaurante Palper (985 750 039); Pension Narcea (985 751 127). ATM & all services. Note: Supermarkets closed on Mondays. Buy food here if going on to albergue in San Juan de Villapañada. 18th C Chapel of Sorrows, Parish church of San Pedro was burned and significantly damaged during Spanish Civil War; 15th C Palace de Valdecarzana houses ethnographic museum; 17th C Shrine to Our Lady of Fresno. Very good market open W & Su, starts early and over by 12 or so. NOTE: Waymarks aren’t good through town. After the town, the Camino spits with one fork going right to San Juan Villapañada Albergue. The other form continues past the albergue to the left and uphill.

4.7 San Juan de Villapañada

**Albergue de San Juan de Villapañada (1/22, muni, 5€, washer; kitchen, tinned food to purchase & vending machines, no internet, hospitalero Domingo; 670 596 854; 985 75 00 68) No other services – buy food in Grado before walking to albergue. Church was used as a medieval pilgrim refuge; site of major Peninsular War battle

2.3 El Freisnu Santuario de la Nueatra Señora del Freisnu Cabruñana

Albergue de Cabruñana (1/18, muni., 5€, keys at restaurant, washer, dryer, kitchen, no internet; 985 75 00-68 (city hall); 985 75 00 75 (police)) Restaurante Ana. Off the cCmino at El Freisnu – 1.5 km. Albergue established during construction of highway. It has remained open. Leaving the route bypasses Santa Eulalia - rejoins the Primitivo to the north.

2.9 Santa Eulalia de Doriga

Albergue Ca Pacita (12, private, 10€, washer, meals available, wifi, 684 613 861) Bar Ca Pacita; Bar Doriga 12th C Church of Santa Eulalia Doriga; 14th-15th C Doriga Palace

2.7 Cornellana **Albergue de Peregrinos (4/24, muni., monastery, 5€, kitchen, free washer/dryer, no internet; 635 485 932; the monastery is being restored and the Albergue is OPEN during restoration). Other lodging: Hotel Cornellana (42-48€, 985 58 83 56); **Hostal La Fuente (985 834 042), Casa Rural Casa el Medico (36-72€, 645 51 89 79). ATM; **Restaurante Casa Dany. Bar La Taberna; bakery, store, pharmacy Semi- ruined monastery San Salvador de Cornellana founded in 1024, later Cluniac; Interior of church is 12th C, façade is 17th C

47 Stage 17: [Finisterre first] Cee to Finisterre. 12.9 km (plus 7km roundtrip to cape) 1.2 Corcubión Albergue Camino Fisterra (14 Priv. 10€, small kitchen, washer/dryer, 981-74-50-

40 / 629-11-41-22 ). Other lodging: Hostal San Martín (981-74-60-22); Hotel Praia de Quenxe (A 800 m. from Camino on beach, +35 € ind. / +40 € dob. 981-70-64-57); Hotel As Hortensias (800 m. from Camino on beach, 30-40 € ind. / 45-60 € dob. 981-74-75-84). Several bars/cafes (may not be open early). Two routes to Corcubion possible one marked with Yellow & red arrows. Town of Corcubion is a National Historic Landmark. Praza San Marcos, 12C Romanesque Church of San Marcos, Calle San Marcos contains picturesque and historic houses

2.4 Alto San Roque **Albergue San Roque (20 Priv – Galician Assoc. of Friends, sometimes communal meals, 981-70-61-63 (Oficina Turismo) / 981-74-54-00 (Ayuntamiento))

2.6 Praia de Estorde Café Hotel Playa de Estorde

1 Sardiñero Other Lodging: Hostal Nicola (30-42 € dob. 981-74-37-41). Café behind pension on beach

2.8 Playa Langosteira (Colcoba)

Albergue (10 Priv.12€); Albergue A Cabo Vila (28 Priv. 12€); Bar/Restaurante Tira do Cordell

2.9 Finisterre Albergue (2/36, Muni., 6€, kitchen, washer/dryer, 981-74-07-81, alberguefisterra@hotmail.com); Albergue Por Fin (4/11, Priv. 10€, kitchen, wifi, washer/dryer, 636-76-47-26, albergueporfin@gmail.com); Albergue O Encontro (1/9, Priv., 15€, kitchen, washer, internet, 696-50-33-63 / 981-74-03-69); Albergue do Sol (18 Priv. 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, meals, wifi, 981-74-06-55 / 617-56-86-48, alberguedosol@hotmail.com); Albergue Finistellae (20 Priv. 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, breakfast 3.50€, wifi, 637-82-12-96, reservas@finistellae.com); Albergue de Paz (4/26 Priv., 10€, microwave, washer/dryer, wifi, 628-90-36-93 / 981-74-03-32); Albergue do Mar (28, private, 12€, kitchen, breakfast 3€, wifi, washer/dryer, breakfast, 981-74-02-04, alberguedomar@gmail.com); Albergue Arasolis (2/16 private, 12€, kitchen, breakfast, wifi, washer/dryer, 638-32-68-69 (W-App) / 981-71-21-43 / 679-35-24-68 (W-App), alberguearasolis@yahoo.com); Albergue Mar de Rostro (2/23, private 10€, kitchen, breakfast 2.50€, wifi, washer, breakfast 2.5€, 637-10-77-65 (W-App) / 981-74-03-62, alberguemarderostro@hotmail.com); Albergue Cabo da Vila (28, private, 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, breakfast incl., wifi, 607-73-54-74 / 981-74-04-54, alberguecabodavila@gmail.com); Albergue Mar de Fora (11, private, 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, breakfast, wifi, 686-93-90-79). Other lodging: Hostal Mariquito (25-30 € ind. / 36-48 € dob. 981-74-00-44) ; Hotel Áncora (+25 € ind. / +32 € dob. 981-74-07-91 ); Hotel Finisterre (30-40 € ind. / 42-50 € dob. 981-74-00-00); Alojamiento Mirador Fin da Terra (+20 € ind. / +35 € dob. 648-91-89-29). ATM, All Services.

3.5 Cape Finisterre Other Lodging: Hotel O Semáforo (Part of the lighthouse, 50-60 € ind. / 95-110 € dob. 981-72-58-69) Bar

46   

11

 

12 Stage 3: Cornellana to Bodenaya: 20 km Note: If wind, cold or rain possibly continue to La Espina. – only 1.1 km further. 2.8 Santa Eufemia

1.7 Llamas

2.4 Quintana Picnic Area with foot pool just pas cemetery; 2d picnic area about .5k further

1.7 Casazorrina This is an exit from the nearby motorway – services are available at exit about .5km off camino

1.4 Salas Albergue de Peregrinos de Salas (2/16, Muni. 8€, dob./13€, kitchen, no internet; 985 83 22 79); **Albergue la Campa (50, Priv., bunks 8€, private room 13€/person; 3€ breakfast, common meal, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi; 679 390 756); Albergue El Rey Casto (20, private 10€, washer/dryer, kitchen, wifi, 985 830 261). Other Lodging: Hotel Soto (985 83 00 37); Hotel Castillo de Valdes-Salas (59-75€, 985 83 01 73) ATM; **Café Panchon. **Bar Luciano (breakfast). Farmers’ market on T – open early and over by 13 or so. Sello available at Hogar de Pensionistas above municipal albergue or at the tourist office. Castillo Valdés-Salas, 10th C, birthplace of Fernando Valdés-Salas who was the founder of Univ. of Oviedo Archbishop of Seville and an Inquisitor General of Spain; Santa Maria la Mayor Collegiate Church, 16th C (Asturian Renaissance masterpiece); Church of San Martin Local food “los carajitos de profesor” (a hazelnut cracker);

3.3 Puente del Carcabón

2.6 Porciles

1.9 Bodenaya **Albergue de Peregrinos de Bodenaya (3/21, Priv., donativo, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi, common meals, hospitalero David, 609-13-31-51; bar open to passing pilgrims) Picnic area just before town.

 

45 Alternate Stage 16 [Muxia first]: Santa Marina to Dumbria 22.3 3.4 Vilar do Castro

5.8 St Cristovo de Corazon Casa Jurgo Restaurante; Fountain Ingrexa de San Christobal

Mallón Albergue Da Ponte (muni.)

1.4 Ponte Olveira Albergue O Refuxio da Ponte (1/10, Priv. 10€, washer/dryer, breakfast, meals, wifi 981-74-17-24, refuxiodaponte@hotmail.com); Bar Restaurante Inglesia de San Xoan de Mazaricos – Baroque Retabalo

2 Olveiroa Albergue de Santiago de Olveiroa (4/34 Muni., 6€, kitchen, 981-74-40-01); Albergue Horreo (5/49, Priv., 12€, kitchen, breakfast, wifi, washer/dryer, 981-74-16-73 / 617-02-60-05, casaloncho@gmail.com); Albergue O Peregrino (possible new private). Other lodging: Pensión Casa Loncho, (25 € ind. / 30-40 € dob. wifi, 981-74-16-73, http://www.casaloncho.com/); Pensión As Pías (+35 € ind. / +50 € dob. wifi, breakfast, 981-74-15-20, http://www.aspias.net/). **Bar/Restaurant As Pias; Café O Peregrino Igrexa Santiago 18th C

2.7 Puente Logoso **Albergue O Logoso (20, Priv. 12€, kitchen, wifi, washer/dryer, menu, 659-50-53-99 / 981-72-76-02, domingomaceiras@hotmail.com); Café A Pedra

2.8 Hospital Albergue O Castelino (15 Priv., 12€); Café/Bar O Castelino; fountain at Ermita Nosa Senora; fountain at Ermita San Pedro Matir

4.5 Dumbría **Albergue Conco (3/26 Muni., 6€, kitchen, washer, 981 74 40 01 (Town Hall), correo@dumbria.dicoruna.es); ATM, O Arxentino Café/Bar; Bar Transé; Stores. NOTE: eat breakfast here – first open bar continuing on may not be until Quintans.

 

44 13

  

14 Stage 4: Bodenaya to Campiello: 26.3 (Note: mud b/t La Espina & Tineo can be bad – consider road if wet.)

1.1 La Espina Albergue El Cruce (1/12, Priv., donativo, washer, microwave, internet & wifi, 639-36-52-10 / 985-83-73-81 / 985-83-72-81, marciallaespina@hotmail.com); Albergue El Texu (4/16, Priv., donativo, kitchen, common meals, wifi, 603 75 19 06, eltexualbergue@gmail.com, www.alberguetexu.com). Other lodging: Pension Vista la Espina (dob./20-25€,985-83-71-72); Pension el Dakar (dob. /2-24€, 985-83-70-62); Hotel Casa Aurelio (45-55€/dob. 985-83-70-10). ATM; Bars, grocery store. Famous pilgrim stop; Hospital and malateria founded by Valdes-Salas in 13th C

1.1 La Pereda Grocery store; Horreo on entry to town is a pilgrim stop with tables, vending machines, restrooms, and sello

2.8 Pedregal Bar; grocery store (not obvious or closed in June 2015!) 6.2 San

Roque Capilla de San Roque

1.2 Tineo Albergue de Peregrinos Mater Christi de Tineo (1/38, Muni, 5€, coffee machine & microwave, washer/dryer, no internet; on road into town, caminotineo@infonegocio.com, town admin bldg. 985-80-02-32; keys at various bars/restaurants nearby); Albergue Palacio de Meras (4/54, private 12€ washer, bar attached). Other lodging: **Hotel Palacio de Meras (+50€ dob. pilgrim discount, 985-90-01-11); Pensión Bar Tineo 25 -30 €, 985-80-07-10; Pensión La Posada (985-80-04-10); Hotel Don Tineo (985-80-03-25); Hostal Don Miguel (985 800 325). ATM; all services; Palace Hotel Café; many bars/cafes. Most services are downhill in the center of town. Farmers’ market Th – open early til about 13 or so; sello available at city hall or albergue (also sello for Borres if you intend staying there). Sello alsoavailable at end of town at the house of El Último de Filipinas (closed in June 2015). Internet at Tera Sistemas. Has been population here since the Bronze age; town was founded by Rome, famous pilgrim stop. Remains of old pilgrim hospital at center of town. Inglesia de San Pedro (originally part of Franciscan monastery) has preserved Romanesque tower and Merás Chapel, 15th C, including double doors made out of single piece of oak; 16th C Palacio de Merás (Asturian Renaissance); Palacio de los Garcia de Tineo, 17th C. Art Museum at the Plaza Alonso inside the Convento de San Francisco del Monte (Opening TThF 15-17; SSu 10-12. NOTE: The CSJ Guide observes: “[After Tineo] you are entering a remote area where the population is declining in numbers. Many of the facilities that remain are looked after by elderly people; the few bars and shops that there are may close unexpectedly because of ill health or a death in the family. It is wise to carry a small reserve of food at all times.

8.2 Desvío Obona

Santa Maria de Obona Monastery -- detour 1km total off route; picnic table at monastery; bar, shop further off route at top of hill Founded 8th C; the church building dates to 12th C , badly damaged in 1835 when church property was privatized, but still in use today

4.7 Campiello **Albergue Privado Casa Herminia (26, Priv., 13€ (w/o meals)/ 23€ (including breakfast & supper), no kitchen, washer, wifi, private rooms, 985-80-00-11); Albergue Casa Ricardo (26 priv. 10€, washer/dryer, kitchen, bar & store attached, 985 80 07 09, 985 80 17 76, 661 431 210) Bars, store. Last store if walking Hospitales route. Food: Casa Hermania – fried bread w/ applesauce breakfast; large café con leche!

43 Stage 16: [Finisterre First) Lamelas to Cee 30.2 

2.7 Vilar do Castro

Option to go up and over Monte Aro (adds .1)

5.8 St Cristovo de Corazon

Casa Jurgo Restaurante; fountain

Igrexa de San Cristobal 1.4 Ponte

Olveira Albergue O Refuxio da Ponte (1/10, Priv. 10€, washer/dryer, breakfast, meals, wifi 981-74-17-24, refuxiodaponte@hotmail.com)

Bar Restaurante

Inglesia de San Xoan de Mazaricos – Baroque Retabalo 2 Olveiroa Albergue de Santiago de Olveiroa (4/34 Muni. 6€, kitchen, 981-74-40-01); Albergue

Horreo (5/49, Priv., 12€, kitchen, breakfast, wifi, washer/dryer, 981-74-16-73 / 617-02-60-05, casaloncho@gmail.com); Albergue O Peregrino (possible new private). Other lodging: **Pensión Casa Loncho, (25 € ind. / 30-40 € dob. wifi, 981-74-16-73, http://www.casaloncho.com/); Pensión As Pías (+35 € ind. / +50 € dob. wifi, breakfast, 981-74-15-20, http://www.aspias.net/).

**Bar/Restaurant As Pias; Café O Peregrino; Store

Igrexa Santiago 18th C 2.7 Puente

Logoso Albergue O Logoso (20, Priv. 12€, kitchen, wifi, washer/dryer, menu, 659-50-53-99 / 981-72-76-02, domingomaceiras@hotmail.com)

Café A Pedra 2.8 Hospital Albergue O Castelino (15 Priv., 12€)

Café/Bar O Castelino; fountain at Ermita Nosa Senora; fountain at Ermita San Pedro Matir

Marco do Couto Cruciero at 2.4; Ermita Nosa Senora das Nieves Hermitage, 18th C at 4.4; Ermita San Pedro Martir w/ shelter, water, picnic area at 7.7

10.6

Cruceiro do Armada (Os Caminos Chans)

Albergue O Bordón (24 Priv., 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, meals, wifi, 981-74-65-74 / 655-90-39-32, albergueobordon@gmail.com)

Restaurante Evaristo, Bar

2.2 Cee All services; Albergue Moreira (22, Private, 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, 620-89-15-47 / 981-74-62-82, info@alberguemoreira.es); **Albergue A Casa da Fonte (2/42 Priv. 10€ small kitchen, wifi, washer/dryer, 699-24-27-11 / 981-74-66-63, guzmanroget@gmail.com); Albergue Camino das Estrellas (2/30 Priv. 10€, washer/dryer, meals, internet, 981-74-75-75); Albergue Camiño de Fisterra (14 Priv, 10€, kitchen, vending machines, washer/dryer, 981-74-50-40; 629-11-41-22). Other lodging: Hostal Galicia (981-74-60-57); Pension Beiramar (40-50€ dob. 981-74-50-40/629-11-41-22), Hotel La Marina (30-40 € ind. / 40-50 € dob. 981-74-73-81); Hotel Larry (25-40 € ind. / 40-60 € dob., 981-74-64-41); Hotel Insua (36-50 € ind. / 50-65 € dob. wifi, breakfast, laundry service 981-74-75-75).

ATM; all services; Café Casa Talieiro  

 

42 15

 

16 Stage 5: Campiello to Berducedo via Hospitales Route: 27km NOTE: Route is exposed w/ NO SERVICES! Steep descent from Puerto Palo. If foggy, windy or rainy avoid this route. Alternative route via Polo is longer and hilly but more protected and with services. Both are reported to be beautiful in their different ways. 1.2 El Fresno/El Espin Bar/Shop

Ermita de Magdalena

1.7 Borres Albergue de Santa Maria de Borres (1/18, muni., 5€, key at Bar (about 5 min walk away), microwave only, no hot water, no heat, no internet, "very basic," up and down reviews – sometimes unkempt, 985-80-02-32 (Ayuntamiento)). Bar El Barin (open 6:00)

Santa Maria de Inglesia; Casa del Hospital here is the oldest recorded hostel on the primitive way dating to 889.

1.4 Desvío Hospitales Fountain 500m after Borres; Fountain 2.7km after split to Pola Allende; Bar Casa Bota in La Mortera straight on road to Pola Allende

Hospitales passes three ruined pilgrim hospitals: La Parodiella hospital (2.7), Fanfaron hospital (2.2 further) and Valparaiso hospital (1.6 further)

Roman Gold Mines – small lakes in area are reservoirs, also canals & tunnels (visible 1.7k before Puerta de Palo)

16.25 Montefurado Ruin of pilgrim hospital containing visible carving of St. James. NOTE: At the end of town, camino markings are scarce. You must go through three gates. the first is a very flimsy barbed wire gate.

4 Lago Bar Casa Serafin (closed on Sundays) Church with 16th C belfry & old yew at side of church (9m high & .6m diameter)

3.7 Berducedo Albergue de Peregrinos (1/12, muni., 5€, kitchen, washer/dryer, no internet, 985-80-70-04 (Town Hall), keys at Bar El Cafetin); Albergue Privado Camin Antiguo (1/10, private, 15€, small breakfast, meal, private rooms, no internet, washer/dryer, 696-92-91-65 caminantiguo@gmail.com).

**Bar/Pension Café Casa Marques (15-25€)(bar open early for breakfast); shop; Bar El Cafetin; Bar/shop Casa Corondeno. Last food store before Grandas.

14th C church; ruins of ancient pilgrim hospital now the Doctor’s house

NOTE: This is a pinch point – Can be crowded and out of beds. Bus from Berducedo to Grandas and returns to Berducedo at 6:30 a.m.

41 Stage 15: Negreira to Lamelas. 20.5 km 2.9 Zas (Xas) Bars (possibly closed as of June 2015)

5.3 Portocamiño (A Pena)

**Café A Piaxe (.15 off Camino on right; may serve breakfast all day; its not visible from Camino and there is no sign!); fountain Cruciero da Piaxe

4.2 Vilaserio Albergue O Rueiro (30 private,12€, wifi, washer/dryer, blankets but no heat, meals, 981-89-35-61 / 659-56-81-39, contacto@restaurantealbergueorueiro.com); Albergue Escuela (20, Muni. 10€, basic mattresses on floor, unheated, key at house #39, 648-79-20-29 Bar A Nosa Casa; Bar Herminio

2.1 Cornado Fountian

6 Santa Marina **Albergue Casa Pepa (18 private 12€, washer dryer, meals - 12€. wifi, 981-85-28-81 / 686-23-43-42, alberguecasapepa@yahoo.es) Inglesia de Santa Maria de Marona 18th C (reconstructed)

.7 Lamelas Albergue Santa Mariña (10 Priv. 10€, washer/dryer, kitchen, meals - bad reviews online, 981-85-28-97 / 655-80-68-00, casaantelo@gmail.com). Other lodging: Pensión Prada (30-45 € dob. (dto. a peregrinos), 985-59-81-84). Café Antelo Café Casa Victoriano; Café Gallego, Restaurante None Maronas.

 

  

40 17

  

18

 

39 Stage 14: Santiago to Negreira: 22.4 km 5.3 Pineiro Fountain; Town center is .4km off Camino to left. Café Os Sixtos, Café O Forno de

Ánxela on the AC-534; **Café Tertulia on way out of Santiago at red light at left corner of Rua Pompal

2.2 Quintáns Café Os Arcos; picnic table on far side of town

2 Alto do Vento Café Alto de Vento 2 Ventosa Albergue Casa Riamonte (6, private, 12€, dob./ 40-50€, kitchen, washer/dryer,

**meals - 15€, wifi, 981-89-03-56 / 629-74-07-42 riamonte@telefonica.net) (after Ventosa detour .6 km out of Lombao)

Café Alto de Mento 2.8 Augapesada Cafe Parrillada O Crueceiro, Café Carmen, Store, “recreation area”

Medieval bridge 3.5 Trasmonte Bar Casa Pancho (just after town) 1.5 A Ponte

Maceira Café Restaurante Ponte Maceira (just before bridge); Café/Bar Rufino

Romanesque Capilla San Blas; Romanesque bridge 16th C; restored mill on river 3.2 A Chancela Logrosa Albergue (12,private, 17€ incl. breakfast, washer dryer, wifi, meals; .8 off

camino) Snack Bar Alecrin (in A Chancela)

1.9 Negreira Albergue de Negreira (22, Muni., 6€, kitchen, vending machines, internet, 606-28-02-02, .9 k after town, just past far side of town); Albergue Lua (40, Private, 10€, kitchen, vending machines, washer/dryer, breakfast, internet 698-12-88-83, alberguelua@gmail.com); **Albergue San Jose (50, Priv., 12€, kitchen, internet, washer/dryer, breakfast €2.50, 881-97-69-34, info@alberguesanjose.es , a bit off the Way but signed); Albergue El Carmen (34, Priv., 10€, washer/dryer, wifi, meals, 981-88-16-52 / 636-12-96-91, info@alberguenegreira.com); Albergue Alecrin (2/40 Priv. 10€, Kitchen, vending machines, wifi, washer/dryer, meals, 981-81-82-86 (hostel) / 616-62-87-68 (Raul), alecrin@albergueennegreira.com); **Albergue Anjana, (3/18, Priv., 12€, vending machine, wifi, washer/dryer, 607-38-72-29/667-20-47-06, albergue.anjana@gmail.com). Other lodging: Pensión La Mezquita (30 € ind. / 45 € dob. 636-12-96-91); Hotel Tamara (30-40 € ind. / 50-55€ dob. 981-88-52-01); Casa de Bola (free ride to hotel for pilgrims, 63 € ind. / 70 € dob. 670-64-80-78).

ATM; all services, **Bar Porto (on left near bridge heading out of town); **Café/Bar Imperial

Chapel of San Mauro; Manor of Coton 17th C; Parish Church de San Xulian de Negreira 18th C

38 19 Alternate Stage 5: Campiello to Berducedo (via Pola Allande): 31.7 NOTE: Steep descent from Puerto Palo. Also this alternative is longer and has steeper sections than Hospitales. BUT it is more protected with places to stop and services. 2.9 Borres Albergue de Peregrinos de Borres (16, muni., 5€, key in box on porch or from Bar,

microwave only, no hot water, "very basic," up and down reviews – sometimes unkempt, 985-80-02-32 (Ayuntamiento)).

Bar Barin (somewhat far from albergue) 1.4 Divisío Hospitales 1.5 La Mortera Bar Casa Bota; Shop

Palacio de las Maldonadas & Parish Church of San Pascual 1.3 Porciles Bar/Shop

Small museum of country life 5.2 Pola de

Allande Albergue de Peregrinos de Pola de Allande (1/24, muni, 5€, kitchen (very few utensils), no internet, 985-80-70-04 (Town Hall)). Other Lodging: **Hotel La Nueva Allandesa, 985-80-70-27); Hotel Lozano (985-80-71-02).

ATM, Meson el Casino, Restaurante Lozano, **Restaurante Allandesa

Palacio de Peñalba (fortified house); Parish 15th C church of San Andres; town has significant Indiano influences (Indianos migrated to America but then returned to Asturias) including the House of Las Veigas and the Ramos-Valledo Villa.

3.2 Peñaseita Albergue Peñaseita (2/12, 3€, keys at Bar Viñas next door, no kitchen, no internet, 985-80-71-16 )

Bar Viñas 2.1 La Reigada 3.5 Puerto Palo 1.7 Montefurado Ruin of pilgrim hospital containing visible carving of St. James

NOTE: At the end of town, Camino markings are scarce. You must go through three gates. the first is a very flimsy barbed wire gate.

4 Lago Bar (closed on Sundays)

Church with 16th C belfry & old yew at side of church (9 m high & .6m diameter) 3.7 Berducedo Albergue de Peregrinos (12, muni., 5€, kitchen, 985-80-70-04 (Town Hall), keys at

Bar El Cafetin); Albergue Privado Camin Antiguo (10, private, 15€, small breakfast, also has private rooms 696-92-91-65, caminantiguo@gmail.com); Albergue Casa Marques (16, priv. 10€, washer/dryer, kitchen, 985 909 820); Albergue Camino Primitivo (1/19, priv. 12€, washer & spin centrifuge, 985 90 66 70).

**Bar/Pension Café Casa Marques (18-25€)(bar open early for breakfast); shop; Bar Cafetin; Bar/shop Casa Corondeno. If walking on to A Mesa think about buying food here.

14th C church, remains of ancient pilgrim hospital may be visible

NOTE: This is a pinch point – Can be crowded and out of beds. Bus from Berducedo to Grandas and returns to Berducedo at 6:30 a.m. LAST FOOD STORE BEFORE GRANDAS

20 37 Pilgrim Mass is usually celebrated at 12:00 noon. Mass in English is celebrated at 10:30 in one of the Cathedral chapels. One of the more well-known symbols of the Cathedral is the botafumiero. According to the Pilgrim Welcome Office website, it is used on Feast Days (Epiphany, Easter, Ascension, Apparition of te Apostel (5/23), Pentecost, St. James Day (7/25), Assumption, All Saints, Christ the King, Immaculate conception (12/8), Christmas, Transfer of the body of the Apostle (12/30)) and on other occasions when arranged by groups. Roof tours, museum tours, and tours of the archeological diggings at the Cathederal may be booked online or at the Cathedral office for up to €15/person (there are lots of choices – this is the price for the full package deal). Monestery of San Martiño Pinario. Benedictine monastery founded in the 10th C. Became the most important monastic center in Galicia. Contains a “magnificant baldicino” (canopy structure over the altar), 17th C carved choir stalls, a treasure & a portrait gallery. Notable Museums: Museum of the Galacian People & the Galician Museum of Modern Art (near the entrance gate to the old city) Palace of Gelmírez. Begun in 1120. Contains a medieval kitchen and 13th C synodal hall. Alameda. 19th C park made up of the Alameda pass itself, the A ferradura walk and the oak grove of Santa Susana. Contains the chapel of Santa Susana, the Church of the Pilar, a bandstand and dovecot Route of Routes. Walking route through the city visiting most of the notable sites and tracing the entry to the city of the major camino routes. A guide prepared by the Confraternity of St. James can be downloaded here for a donation: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/the-route-of-routes-in-santiago-de-compostela-guide.16/ Recommended Places to Eat (by folks on the caminodesantiago.me forum): Restaurante Tarara, Rua Carretas 22 Bajo (Family owned and operated, 23 seats, open at 8:00 pm) Restaurante Carretas, Rua Carretas 21 (more expensive but excellent) San Clemente, Calle San Camente 6 (more expensive but excellent) Café Casino, Rua de Vilar 35 (open sine 1873 , breakfast, drinks and simple meals, comfy and wifi) Casa Manolo, Plaza de Cervantes (good lunches) La Bodeguilla de San Roque, Rua de San Roque 13 (reasonable prices, lots of locals) O Paris, Rua Bautizados 11, (relaxed young vibe) O Tragaluz, San Miguel dos Agros 9 (up market but mmenu del dia is very reasonable) Casa Marcelo, Rua das Hortas 1 (hours 1-4, 9-11:30) Santiago also has an excellent central market. The Mercado Central is a world renowned fish and seafood market. Right next to it is the food market, La Vega. They are at Ismael Valdes Vergara 900. M-F 9-17; S Su 7-15:30.  

36 Santiago de Compostela Albergues: Albergue Santo Santiago (40, private, 10€, vending machines, washer/dryer, adjacent bar/restaurant, wifi, 657-40-24-03, elsantosantiago@gmail.com); **Albergue Mundoalgergue (34 private, 16€, double bottom bunks €28, kitchen, laundry/drying area; breakfast 3€, wifi, 981-58-86-25 / 696-44-87-37, info@mundoalbergue.es); Albergue San Lazaro (80, muni., 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, 981-57-14-88); Albergue Acuario (70 private, 10€, washer/dryer, wifi 981-57-54-38, reservas@acuariosantiago.com); Albergue Seminario Menor (177, private, 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, 881-03-17-68, santiago@alberguesdelcamino.com); Albergue Fin del Camino (110, private, 8€, wifi, washer/dryer); Albergue Turistico La Salle (84, private, 17€, washer/dryer); Albergue Porta Real (24, private, 10/15€, washer/dryer); Albergue Meiga Backpackers (24, private 13€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi, 981-57-08-46 / 981-59-64-01, info_meiga@yahoo.es); Albergue Azabache (20, private, 16/18€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi); Albergue La Estrella de Santiago (24, private, 10€, wifi, kitchen, washer); Albergue Roots & Boots (48, private, 15/18€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi, 699-63-15-94, info@rootsandboots.es); Albergue The Last Stamp (62, private, 15/18€, kitchen, washer/dryer,wifi, 981-56-35-25, reservas@thelaststamp.es); Albergue Jaime Garcia Rodriguez (156 private, 8€, microwaves, washer.dryer, 981-58-73-24); Albergue O Fogar do Theodomiro (20 private, 15-20€, kitchen, washer/dryer, 981-58-29-22 / 699-63-15-92); Albergue la Estacion (24 private 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, 981-59-46-24 / 639-22-86-17 (W-App), info@alberguelaestacion.com). Other Lodging: San Martin Pinario, Hospideria Seminario Mayor (981 56 02 82, reservas@sanmartinpinario.eu, http://www.hsanmartinpinario.com/, 20€-47€); Pensión Pazo de Argra (20-32 € ind. / 32-45 € dob. 981-58-35-17 ); **Residencia Universertaria (981-58-22-11, €15-20, incl. breakfast; Hostal Mapoula (25-35 € ind. / 35-50 € dob. 981-58-01-24); Hostal Alameda (+35 € dob. / +47 € trip. 981-58-81-00 ); Hotel Avenida (30-59 € ind. / 40-70 € dob. 981-56-84-26); Hotel Nest Style Santiago (+33 € ind. / +43 € dob. 981-56-34-44 ); Hostal Reis Católicos (Parador de Santiago)(+140 € ind. / +155 € dob. 981-58-22-00). Laundry Services: Colada Express Santiago de Compostela, C. Santiago de Guayaquil, Self-Laundry Service; Pilgrim House, C Rua Nova 19, laundry service - €5 Other Handy Info: Pilgrim’s Welcome Office. Rúa do Vilar 3, 981-56-88-46, http://peregrinossantiago.es/eng/pilgrims-office/welcome/. NOTE – During 2015 the Pilgrim’s office may move (if the space is renovated by then) to an address on the Rua Carretas. (Just past the Parador, turn right and the planned space is on the left. Galician Tourist Office in Santiago (good up to date services list for Camino to Muxia/Finisterre): 30 Rua do Vilar (near cathedral on the same street as the Pilgrim Office, the opposite side of the street about 100 meters away). Pilgrim House Welcome Center. Rúa Nova 19, Santiago, http://www.pilgrimhousesantiago.com/ , 34 981 585 788. Hours 11-18, MTThFS (free wifi, kitchen, quiet and relaxation space, laundry 5€, backpack/walking stick storage .50-1.50€/day, coffee/tea/cola cao 1€). Website contains great and up to date info on transportation, as well as places to stay, eat and see along with links, cost info and opening hours. Renfe has an office right next door to the current Pilgrims office open 7 days a week until 19:00. A Sampling of the Santiago Sites of Interest: Cathedral de Santiago. http://www.catedraldesantiago.es/. Construction began in 1075 but stalled out. It began again in 1168 under direction os Maestro Mateo. It was consecrated in 1211. In addition to the relics of St. James, the cathedral houses Mateo Romanesque masterpeice, the Pórtico de las Gloria. The

21 Stage 6: Berducedo to Grandas de Salime : 21.4km Note VERY Steep descent (800m in 6k) to the reservoir in this stage. 4.6 A Mesa Albergue de Peregrinos de las Mesa (1/20, muni. 5€, small kitchen, open but

recently reported not very clean, no internet, 633-14-80-71, tonifranch@hotmail.com). Pension/Apartmientos Casa Sanchez (30-50€). Think about buying food in Berducedo before walking here.

TTh Grocery & Produce truck @ 1600. May be last water before Grandas

Inglesia de Santa Maria 14th C, site of former pilgrim hospital 2.3 Buspol Capilla Santa Marina 5.8 Senda Castanar 1.9 Embalse de Salime/

El Salto ** Hotel Las Grandas,(40-50€/dob., 985 62 72 30, hotelasgrandas@gmail.com, sello available, coffee on the terrace is recommended!)

Bar/Restaurante Hotel Las Grandas; good ice cream just up the hill from the dam.

The original town of Salime was flooded in 1954 – its abandoned buildings are visible on the hillside.

4.5 Desvío por Senda 2.3 Grandas de Salime Albergue de Peregrinos El Salvador (3/54, muni., 5€, kitchen, washer; recently

changed hands w/ good reviews, private 4 person rooms and 2 dorm rooms of 12 ea., no internet, 633-14-80-71) Albergue Casa Sanchez (4/16 priv. 12€, washer/dryer, kitchen, 626 665 118, 985 78 11 50). Other lodging: Hotel La Barra (40-45 € ind./ 50-55 € dob. 985-62-71-96), Pensión Arreigada (985-62-70-17).

ATM, stores; Bar La Barra (open at 6:30); Café/Bar Centro (only bar open on Sunday serving simply platos, open early at 6:30) **Restaurante A Reigada. Farmers’ market 2d Su of month. Internet above library.

12th C Collegiata de El Salvador w/ original Romanesque portal & 18th C altarpeice. Very Good Ethnographic Museum (closed Su M). Casa de Román 16th C. Also look for remains of circular cortín structures used to protect bee hives from bear attacks!

 

22 35 Stage 13: Santa Irene to Santiago: 22.8 km A Rúa Other Lodging: Hotel O Pino (€27-36€ ind./ €40-48 dob., 981-511-035); Casa Rural

O Acivro (35€ ind. /€45 dob., 981 511 316); Bar/Restaurante Casa do Acivro

2.7 O Pedruozo Albergue (4/120, muni., kitchen, washer/dryer, internet 660-39-68-26); Albergue Porta de Santiago (60, private, 10€, microwave, vending machines, washer dryer, wifi, 981-51-11-03 / 607-83-53-54, portadesantiago@hotmail.com); Albergue Edreira (4/56, private 10€, microwaves, washer dryer, internet 981-51-13-65 / 660-23-49-95, info@albergue-edreira.com ); Albergue O Burgo (24, private, 10€, (dob. 40€, vending machines, washer/dryer, wifi 981-51-14-06/630-40-41-38, albergueoburgo@gmail.com); **Albergue Cruciero Pedrouzo (94 private, 10€, washer/dryer, kitchen, vending machines, wifi, 981-51-13-71 / 629-51-82-04, reservas@alberguecruceirodepedrouzo.com). Albergue Hostal Rem, (1/40, private, 10€, washer/dryer, café w/breakfast, wifi981-51-04-07 / 618-53-35-15, info@hostelrem.com / reservas@hostelrem.com); Albergue Otero (2/36, priv., 10€, no kitchen, washer/dryer, internet access 671 66 33 74, info@albergueotero.com). Other lodging: Hotel O Pino (27-38 € ind. / 40-50 € dob. 981-51-10-35); Pensión Arca (30 € ind. / 45 € dob., 657-88-85-94); Pensión Compás (15-25 € ind. / 25-35 € dob. 981-51-13-09); Pensión Una Estrella Dorada (20 € ind. / 30 € dob. 630-01-83-63 ); Pensión Maribel (35 € ind. / 40 € dob. 981-51-14-04 ). ATM, All Services This can be a pinch point with not enough beds during busy times

3.6 Cimadevila Hotel Amenal, (45-49 € ind. / 55-59 € dob. 981-51-04-31), Café 3.9 San Paio **Bar Casa Porta Santiago 2.2 Lavacolla Other Lodging: Habitaciones Lavacolla (30 € dob. ,659-88-18-68); Hotel Garcas (35

€ ind. / 50 € dob. 981-88-82-25); Hostal San Paio (+35 € ind. / +40 € dob. 981-88-82-05); Hotel Ruta Jacobea (+59 € dob. 981-88-82-11) Bar, Store, Pharmacy Medieval pilgrims often stopped here to bathe themselves in the river before entering the city. Modern chapel in park at which many stop to reflect before walking into the city.

1.4 Villamaior Cafes San Marcos Hotel Akelarre (35 € ind. / 40-45 € dob. 981-55-26-89)

Bar, Shop.

4.3 Monte do Gozo Albergue (500, muni. 6€, kitchen, breakfast, no internet, 981-55-89-42) ATM, Bar, Store

4.7 Santiago de Compostela

See detailed Santiago info beginning on next page

 

34

 

23 Stage 7: Grandas de Salime to Padrón, 28.1 km 

3.2 Cereixeira Bar Casa Federico/Grocery (open in morning – might be no other option open until A Fonsagrada; sello available); Bar La Parilla; Park w/ picnic tables just after Bar parilla and just before Castro

2.3 Castro Albergue Juvinil (4/16, 13€ (incl . breakfast), menu 9€, washer, no kitchen, possible communal meal; internet & wifi; may need to call ahead in summer - hostel may be used by other groups: 985 92 4197/982 35 00 20, alberguedecastro@gmail.com ); Picnic talbles near Albergue Chao de San Martin - well-preserved Celtic bronze age settlement (800 BC), occupied until the 2nd C when it was destroyed by earthquake; also roman ruins. Such fortified settlements = “castros”. The people were a Celtic cultural group that settled Galicia and West. Asturias. Guided visit to Museum (in Spanish) is recommended and is €4. Opening hours 11:00-12:00, closed at 12:00 for tour, re-open at 16:00 After Castro, past the village of Padraira is the Ermita San Lazaro - site of former leper colony.

4.6 Peñafonte 4.4 Venta

del Acebo **Bar Casa O Acebo (light food, closes at 13:00 for siesta) Asturian-Galician Border

4.1 Fonfría Fountain Former pilgrim hospital now part of a farm. Capilla de Santa María Madanela

1.6 Barbeitos **Bar/Restaurante Quatro Ventos (open 10:00) Note: route splits many times here – follow left-hand waymarking.

1.7 Sta. Bárbara/ Silvela

Picnic area by church Chapel of Santa Bárbara do Camin

2.5 Paradonova Chapel of Santa Cruz. Note, the way splits here. The main route passes through A Fonsagrada and Padron. An older and less travelled route goes through the highlands of Lugo province passing A Pobra de Burón, and rejoins the main route just after Montuoto (passing albergue at Padrón). There are no services on this secondary route. In A Pobra there are two historic churches Santa María Madanela and the Capilla de San Jose, as well as the remains of a medieval castle and a castro. This alternate route is @9.5km

1.9 A Fonsagrada

**Albergue Os Chaos (1/26 private, 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi, not as close to city center and super-market, 660-01-17-16 / 630-34-72-24, albergueoschaos@gmail.com); **Albergue Cantabrico (3/24, private, 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, vending machines, wifi, 669-74-75-60 (W-App) / 982-35-00-35 / 98 2-34-00-36, info@cantabricofonsagrada.com); Albergue O Pineiral (36, priv. 10€, washer/dryer, kitchen, 606 165 752 (part of bar/pension compex). Other lodging: Pensión Casa Manolo (25-30 € ind. / 35-40 € dbl. 982-34-04-08); Pensión Cantábrico (25-30 € ind. / 35-50 € dbl. 982-35-00-35). ATM; **Restaurante Manola (Tarta de Fonsagrada). **Pulperias – O Caldeira and Candal. Internet above Casa Cultural. Probably a large battle between Alfonso II, the Chaste, and Muslim army here. Named for “Sacred Spring” or Fons Sacrata. St James alleged to have made spring flow with milk to help a poor widow who attended him. Also pagan and Roman history. Camino splits before city – Os Chaos Albergue right, City center and Albergue Cantabrico left.

1.8 Padrón Albergue de Xunta de Padrón (6/24, muni. 6€, good kitchen, vending, drying area, rural – not near bars & shops, no internet 982-34-00-00 / 982-34-00-25). Other lodging: Pensión O Grilo (981-81-06-07); Pensión Jardín (981-81-09-50), Hotel Rosalía (+25 € ind. / +40 € dbl. 981-81-24-90), Hotel Chef Rivera (+46 € dbl. 981-81-04-13). Small 18th C Church w/ sundial w/ two scallop shells; governed by Knights of St. John until 1874

24 33 Stage 12: Boente to Santa Irene: 24.8

2.2 Casteñeda Albergue (8, private, 10-11€, washer, bar/restaurant, 981-50-17-11 / 699-76-16-98)

Bar

Site of lime kilns used to build the Cathedral de Santiago; two lovely country houses 3.2 Ribadiso

da Baixo Albergue de Peregrinos (70, muni. 6€, kitchen w/o utensils, washing & drying area; 660-39-68-23); Albergue Los Caminantes (66, private, 10€, kitchen, wifi, 647-02-06-00, info@albergueloscaminantes.co). Other lodging: Pension Rústica Casa Vaamonde (double 36€, 981 500 364).

Bars/cafes 2.8 Arzúa Albergue de Peregrinos de Arzúa (46, muni. 6€, kitchen w/o utensils, washer, 660-39-68-24 / 981-50-04-

55); Albergue Ultrea (39, private 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, meals, wifi, 981-50-04-71 / 626-63-94-50, info@albergueultreia.com); Albergue Via Lactea (120, private, 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, meals, 981-50-05-81 / 616-75-94-47, vialacteaalbergue@hotmail.com); Albergue Don Quijote (50, private, 10€, washer/dryer, microwave only, bar/restaurant, wifi 981-50-01-39 / 696-16-26-95, alberguedonquijote@hotmail.com); Albergue Santiago Apostol (72, private, 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, meals, 981-50-81-32 / 660-42-77-71, santiagoapostolalbergue@hotmail.com); Albergue Los Caminantes II (28, private, 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi, 647-02-06-00, info@albergueloscaminantes.com); Albergue de Fonte (20, private, 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi, 659-99-94-96, alberguedafonte@hotmail.com); Albergue A Conda (18, private, 10€,647-02-06-00, info@albergueloscaminantes.com); Albergue de Selmo (50, private, 10€, Kitchen w/o utensils, breakfast, 981-93-90-18, info@oalberguedeselmo.com). Other lodging: Casa da Igrexa (55 € ind / 60 € dbl., 625-16-46-33 ); Pensión Casa Teodora (981-50-00-83); Pensión Rúa (+25 € ind. / +38 € dbl., 981-50-01-39); Pensión Mesón do Peregrino (981-50-01-45).

ATM, Bars/Restaurants, stores

Arzua is a cheese producing area with the designation of origin Arzua-Ulloa. Convent of the Magdalene (14thC foundation, part of an Augustinian hospital); ruined pilgrim hospital

Os Penedos

Albergue das Camino das Ocas (30, private, 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, bar w/ snacks & breakfast, 648-40-47-80, contacto@caminodasocas.com, 5k past Arzua, 850m off to Fontelas on left)

Calzada Café Calzada

8 A Calle Bar Lino; Tia Dolores

3.2 Salceda Albergue Pousada de Salceda (14, private, washer/dryer, bar/restaurant, wifi, 981-50-27-67, pousadadesalceda@gmail.com); Albergue De Boni (20, private, 10€, microwave/fridge/some utensils, washer/dryer, wifi, 618 965 907, elalberguedeboni@gmail.com). Other lodging: Hostal Pousada de Salceda (+30 € ind. / +40 € dbl., 981-50-27-67).

Bar Taberna Salceda; Meson La Equipa O Xen Café

2.2 A Brea Other Lodging: Pension O Meson (dob. 30-40€ wifi, 981 51 10 40, pension-omeson@hotmail.com). Other Lodging: Pensión The Way (12-15 € per. room / 25 € ind. / 35-45 € dob, wifi, 981-50-29-90, info@theway.org.es).

Bars O

Empalme Café; picnic/recreation area

3.2 Santa Irene

Albergue (36, muni. 6€, kitchen w/o utensils, no internet, washer/dryer, 660-39-68-25); Albergue Santa Irene (2/15, private, 13€, washer/dryer, meals available(break. 5€/dinner 10€), no internet, 981-51-10-00); Albergue Astrar (24, private, 10€, kitchen, breakfast available, washer/dryer, wifi, 608-09-28-20 / 981-51-14-63, albergueruralastrar@gmail.com, 900m off Camino – take detour in Sta. Irene).

Bar Restaurant

32

 

25 Stage 8: Padrón to O Cádavo Baleria: 23.4 3.2 Vilardongo Picnic Area

4.1 Montouto 14th C pilgrim hospital remained open until early 20th C. Neolithic dolmen at back of buildings. Burial cairns, mamoas, also visible in this area; picturesque Galician mountain town.

.9 Paradavella **Bar Casa Meson (great sandwiches); Grocery After town near Degolada look for palloza (traditional circular Gallegan building); Church of San Juan w/ neoclassical altar

2.5 A Degolada Chapel. In English the town’s name means something like “cut-throat” and the legend is that this was a site where executions were carried out by beheading.

2.4 A Lastra **Bars; shop Restored parish church with sculptures dating to 17th C

2.8 Fontaneira Bar; shop Restored parish church contains an icon of St James on horseback and of the Devine Shepherdess; Napoleon occupied this area during the Peninsular Wars

4.8 O Cádavo Baleira Albergue de Xunta de O Cádavo (2/22, muni. 6€, kitchen, no internet, 636-02-02-92); Albergue Porta Santa (2/16 priv. 10€, washer/dryer, kitchen 679 828 540); Albergue San Mateo (40 priv. 10€, washer/dryer, kitchen, 616 529 514, 982 354 009). Other Lodging: Hotel Moneda (25 € ind. / 40 € dbl. 982-35-40-01). ATM, **Restaurante Las Tres Espuelas, Grocery. Note: very good caldo galego at first restaurant you come to in town Probably a large battle between Alfonso II, the Chaste, and Muslim army near here in a place known as the Killing Field in defense of the Camino.

 

26

  

31 Stage 11: Fereira to Boente (Santiago via Melide): 26.2 3.7 San Xurxo

de Augas Santas

Picnic table at end of town

2.1 As Seixas **Albergue As Seixas (35, muni. 6€, kitchen, vending machines (fall 2014 = out of order); Marife & Ana, 609-66-90-57); Bar Goriños. No Stores but evening food truck on Th when Bar is closed. (Think about buying food in Lugo if staying here and don’t want to eat at bar).

1.6 Casa Camiño Other lodging: Casa Rural Casa Camiño (50 € dob. for pilgrims, Kim & Sue, 693-41-84-73). Bar/Restaurant Casa Camiño

Site of ancient pilgrim hospital run by Knights Hospitaller of the Order of St. John of Malta.

Note: After leaving As Seixas walk up the hill & when you reach Casa Camiño with the Casa Rural directly in front of you at a 'T" junction, turn right and go up the hill, not left down the hill towards Palas de Rei.

2.8 Hospital das Seixas

Picnic area; Bar Gorinos (closed Thursdays)

3.2 Vilouriz 4 Rio Furelos Bars

4.7 Melide **Albergue Alphonso II El Castro (2/50, priv. 10€, bar, wifi, washer/dryer 649-572-273, 650-375-088, on the Primitivo route into town); Albergue de Peregrinos de Melide (156, muni., 6€, kitchen with no utensils, washer/dryer, 660-39-68-22); Albergue O Apalpador (30, private, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi, 679-83-79-69 / 981-50-62-66); Albergue O Cruciero (72, private 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi, 616-76-48-96, albergueocruceiro@yahoo.es); Albergue Vilela (24, private, 12€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi, 616-01-13-75, alberguevilela@gmail.com); Albergue Pereiro (40, private, 10€kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi,981-50-63-14, info@alberguepereiro.com); Albergue Melide (42, private, 10€, washer/dryer, wifi, 627-90-15-52 / 981-50-74-91, alberguemelide@hotmail.com); Albergue San Anton, (36, private, 10€, kitchen, washer/dryer, wifi 698-15-36-72 (W-App) / 981-50-64-27, alberguesananton@gmail.com). Other Lodging: Hotel Sony (+20 € ind. / +30 € dbl., 981-50-54-73); Pensión Xaneiro (25-35 € ind. / 35-45 € dbl. , 981-50-61-40); Pensión Berenguela (30 € ind. / 40 € dbl., 981-50-54-17); Hotel Carlos (25-40 € ind. / 40-50 € dbl., 981-50-76-33); Hotel Pousada Chiquitín (30-35 € ind. / 40-50 € dbl. , 981-81-53-33).

ATM, bars; restaurants; Very good farmers’ market every Su – starts early and over by 13 or so.

Romanesque Church of San Pedro; Inglesia de Sancti Spiritus 5.7 Boente **Albergue Boente (50+, private, 10€, meals; small pool in back, wifi, 981-50-19-74 /

638-32-17-07, albergueboente@gmail.com ); Albergue Os Boente (30, private, 10€, washer/dryer, meals, wifi, gets some bad reviews, 981-50-18-53 / 629-14-68-26, os_albergues@hotmail.es )

Bars

Inglesia de Santiago, 12th C (sello)

30 27 Stage 9: O Cádavo Baleria to Lugo: 30.5 

3.9 Vaquriza Picnic spot before Villabade at Ermita de la Virgin del Carmen

2.3 Vilabade Fountain and picnic spot just before village Ermita de la Virgen del Carmen (just before Village in Monte Valiná). Franciscan community for pilgrims in the 15th C. 13th C Church of Santa Maria restored in 17th C is a national artistic monument (Gothic w/ a baroque retablo dominated by impressive Santiago Matamoros); Casa Grande de Vilabade, 17th C manor house

2.4 Castro-verde

Albergue de Xunta de Peregrinos Castroverde (2/34, muni. 6€, kitchen w/no utensils, no internet, 699-83-27-47 (Alberto) / 650-66-61-52 (Pepe)); Other lodging: Pension Cortés (18€ ind., 982 312 166); Cafeteria lenane ATM, shop, bar (last food b-4 Lugo), **Casa Roma. Sello at town hall. Major pilgrim center with hospital in 13th C. One tower of Lemos Castle survives. Parish Church was built in the Norman style surrounded by a low wall.

3.9 Souto de Torres

Vending Machines (we did not see them in June 2015; shaded benches before town across from church.

2.5 Vilar de Cas

Vending Machines (locked in shelter and appeared unattended) Evocative abandoned village of Soutomerille (1 km off Camino turn at farm As Cambas to north) including 10th C church containing many original features. After church skirt around the edge of a sand quarry to rejoin Camino)

2.6 Gondar Vending Machines, tables & chairs. Old location still labelled but closed. new location is at the end of town on the left Legend is that if you drink from fountain you fall in love! Center of village to right of Camino – many typical medieval buildings including church of San Tomé

2.5 Bascuas Fountain, vending machines 10.4 Lugo Albergue de Peregrinos de Lugo (42, muni., 6€, kitchen w/ sm amt. of equipment, no washer or dryer,

618-42-55-78 / 660-27-89-26, jose.veleiro@hotmail.com, NOTE: doors lock at 10pm & hospitalero very rigid); Albergue Hostel Roots & Boots (33+, private, 10€, café/bar – breakfast starts at 6:00 am and open to others; far from city center; recent negative reports); Albergue Casa de Chanca (3/12, private 15€, incl. b-fast, washer/dryer, 648 574 300); Albergue Juvenil Lug2 (16/75, xunta. 9€, washer/dryer, kitchen, 982 220 450, 982 804 149). Other lodging: **Pension Mar de Plata (982 228 910); Pensión San Roque (26-30 € ind. / 34-40 € dbl. 982-22-27-00 ); Hostal Buenas Aires (982 225 468); Hostal Parames (982 226 251);**Hotel España (25€ ind. / 35 € dbl., breakfast €2.50, laundry service 7€, 982-81-60-62); Hostal Bríos (33-38 € ind. / 44-50 € dbl. 982-24-14-08); Hotel Exe Puerta San Pedro (+37 € ind. / + 40 € dbl. 982-22-23-81); Hotel Méndez Núñez (+42 € ind. / +55 € dbl. 982-23-07-11). ATM; **Restaurante Meson Manger, **Meson de Crescente; all other facilities. Sello at albergue, cathedral, Palacio episcopal near cathedral, tourist office and gardens near bus station. Lugo may have the last open shops before Melide Ancient 3rd C Roman Walls 2km in distance completely surround the city – only wall in the world conserved in its entirety, UNESCO World Heritage site. The city was basically abandoned by the 8th C and revived in the 10th C by the Catholic Church which conferred special status on the Church there. Cathedral started in 1129 with Gothic modifications. Includes the Chapel of Santa Maris de los Ojo & a good tympanum at north door. Casa do Concello (town hall) – example of Galician baroque 18th C, clock has been in place since 1874); Bridge over River Miño still has significant Roman sections.

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29 Stage 10: Lugo to Ferreira: 26.9 Leaving Lugo is confusing and there are misleading camino markings. Get

the tourist map from the tourist office – the Camino Primitivo is marked on the map. When you go through the Porto Mino gate in the Roman Wall, a camino sign says go left. IGNORE this sign. Cross the main street and continue straight on a bit to the right. Camino signs will soon appear. When you come out on the paved road Rondo do Carine and head uphill, watch carefully for the camino sign on the right to go down stairs and pass under the main road. The sign is in an alcove at the top of the stairs. You only go about 100 meters on the sidewalk of the main road before the stairs.

2.3 San Lázaro Bars

5.2 Seoane Casa Grande Carrigueiros at 9km

2.4 San Vincente do Burgo

As Searas Bar ("fantastic bocadillos" “yummy breakfast!”)(about 150m off route – sign says 50m); picnic spot and fountain just before town. First “pleasant” stop after Lugo! Potential short detour to 4th C paintings at Santa Eulalia de Boveda – has very good ancient wall paintings, late roman era baths, and very early example of a barrel vault – 3rd & 4th C. May not have regular hours but reports are that opening hours in summer are MTWThF 8:30-14:30, SSu & Holidays 11-20. Village is lovely. Walk through town and follow signs for “Lugo Agricultural Route” to get back to Camino at Bacurín.

3.6 Bacurín Church and Manor of San Miguel (Romanesque)

4.2 San Pedro de Mera / Taboeiro

Crecente Bar/Café Meson de Crecente (good lunches, 150-200m from route – sign says 100m, closed M)

2 San Roman de Retorta

**Albergue de Peregrinos de Retorta (12, muni., 6€, Hospitalero Jorge, bar w/ cold food, 628-17-34-56); Albergue O Candido (16, priv. 8€, washer/dryer, kitchen, 693 063 146, 982 21 40 81) 13th/18th C Inglesia de Santa Cruz de Retorta (original floors in nave and apse, original windows and original Trinitarian Christogram above door

3.1 Burgo de Negral

Picnic Stop 19th C Church of Santa Maria past Burgo de Negral, in Pacio

4.1 Ferreira **Albergue Ponte Ferreira (22, private, 11€, washer, wifi, great communal meals available 9€; great breakfast 3.90€; Juanma, Paloma, Isabel, 616-16-15-94, reservas@alberguesdeferreira.com); **Albergue A Nave (40, private 11€, dbl/ 20-40€ incl. b-fast, tpl w/b-room 15€, washer, dryer, wifi, b-fast €3.90, communal paella dinner, also run by same folks as Albergue Ponte Ferreira, 616-16-15-94, reservas@alberguesdeferreira.com); Albergue Cruz (22, private, 10€ about 200m off camino to left). Bar Ponte Ferreira; fountain/small pool.