February - march 2010

«Amande Persane»«Flowerparty»

«Pure DNA Men»

«White - An expression of unity»

«From Chanel to Valentino»

BalenciagaBurberryCartierGivenchyMaison Martin MargielaJean Paul GaultierLanvinWolfgang Joop

IN THE AirNEW WIN drom

OLFACTIVE trend

COMING next

PERFUMERS’ portrait«Pierre Constantin Guéros»

coming nextCOMING nextHOUSE : Van C lee f & Arpe l sGROUP: In te r-Par fumsFRAGRANCE : Midn igh t in Par i sLAUNCH DATE : Sep tember 2010

HOUSE : Donna Karan GROUP : E s tée Lauder GroupFRAGRANCE : I r i sLAUNCH DATE : Apr i l 2010

HOUSE: Prada GROUP: Puig Beauty & FashionFRAGRANCE: In fus ion de TubéreuseLAUNCH DATE: Spring 2010

HOUSE : Chane lGROUP: Chane lLAUNCH DATE : Summer/Fa l l 2010

HOUSE: Prada GROUP: Puig Beauty & FashionFRAGRANCE: In fus ion de Vé t i ve rLAUNCH DATE: Spring 2010

HOUSE : Va len t inoGROUP: Pu ig Beauty & Fash ionLAUNCH DATE : Ear l y 2011

IN THE AirH O U S E : B a l e n c i a g a G R O U P : C o t y Pr e s t i g eF R A G R A N C E : « B a l e n c i a g a » L A U N C H DAT E : F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0

OLFACTIVE FAMILY :

- Floral, Green Woody, Musky

C O N C E P T :

M ore than 10 years after he took over the artist ic direction of the fashion house, Nicolas Ghesquière offers Balenciaga a new perfume revival. This recent launch, simply called Balenciaga is a fragrance, described

as a contemporary Violet.

The green facets of the t iny f lower were worked on, with Violet leaves absolute, the top of the scent features a spicy mix of Peppers, pink and black. While the Violet is really at the core of the fragrance, the woody essences of Cedarwood, Vetiver were redisti l lated to bring a sense of l iveliness.

The bottle is inspired by the well-known fashion cape by Balenciaga. The ad is fronted by French actress Charlotte Gainsbourg.

C O N C E P T :

IN THE Air

OLFACTIVE FAMILY : - Floral, Citrus, Marine

OLFACTIVE FAMILY : - Woody, Citrus, Spicy

T he new launch by Burberry is a his-and-her duo Fresh, making the sport trend move to sporty chic. The fragrances are both, fresh and pure, l ight and floral for women and energizing woody for men, Burberry Sport is

meant for modern young people.

An easy-to-wear scent, with an energizing Brit ish spir i t , Tangerine, Marine Notes and Ginger in the top, Magnolia, Honeysuckle and Petit-Grain in the heart, Sunny Notes, White Musks, Cedarwood in the dry down for women. An opening with Frosted Ginger, Grapefruit and Wheatgrass, Marine Notes, Red Ginger and Juniper Berry in the middle, White Musks, Woods, Cedar, Dry Amber in fond.

Both fragrances come in a rectangular bottle, long and white for women and long and black for men revealing just a thin red l ine of glass. A detachable red-rubber bracelet stamped Burberry adorns the white packaging.

H O U S E : B u r b e r r y G R O U P : I n t e r - Pa r f u m s F R A G R A N C E : « B u r b e r r y S p o r t Wo m e n & M e n » L A U N C H DAT E : F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0

OLFACTIVE FAMILY : - Citrus, Spicy, Woody

IN THE Air

C O N C E P T :

D éclaration Cologne is said to have something electr ic, but tender. The fragrance can be described as having a piquant freshness, lead by the Ginger. A modern structure, zesty, aldehydic, spicy.

The scent opens with a citrus cocktail of Orange, Mandarine and Bergamot, mixed up with spicy piquant notes, that blend into the heart of Ginger, Cardamom, Coriander, and softened by a f lowery touch of Hedione. The dry down features Cedarwod and Vetiver while dry facets confer a vir i l character.

H O U S E : C a r t i e r G R O U P : R i c h e m o n t G r o u p F R A G R A N C E : « D é c l a r a t i o n C o l o g n e » L A U N C H DAT E : F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0

IN THE Air

C O N C E P T :

E audemoiselle embodies the core aristocratic values of the brand as well as its couture spir i t , as the ad seems to underl ine. The trail of the perfume is delicate and centers on the Rose. The name associates water

(eau in French) and young woman (demoiselle in french).

The scent features at the head Tangerine, Italian winter Lemon, a green Shiso note also called Japanese Basil . The heart notes are Turkish Rose absolute, Ylang ylang and Orange blossom. In fond, the the tr iangle offers Cedarwood, Ambrette seed, Tonka bean and crystall ine Musks.

The retro-l ike packaging with a ribbed bottle recalls other classical colognes and reveals a champagne-coloured juice.

H O U S E : G i v e n c h y G R O U P : LV M HF R A G R A N C E : « e a u d e m o i s e l l e » L A U N C H DAT E : F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0

OLFACTIVE FAMILY : - Floral, Green Fruity, Chypre

IN THE Air

C O N C E P T :

M aison Martin Margiela unveils their f i rst perfume, Untit led. The perfume is exclusively sold at the concept store Colette in Paris and forsakes the tradit ional play on semantics and simplicity to name

the fragrance. Martin Margiela became interested in the idea of a green fragrance.

(Untit led) by Maison Martin Margiela is described as a very 70s green note with a twist of a new sensuality. Bergamot, Petit Grain Bigarade mix at the top, whereas the leafy facets of Galbanum are combined with new natural green aspects, such as Boxwood and Lentisc. The heart marries Jasmine, Incense, and dry down features woody notes of creamy Cedarwood.

Alongside the bottle is a reinterpretation of a classic object of the perfume industry, displaying connotations of the laboratory, the workshop, as the brand itself does.

H O U S E : M a i s o n M a r t i n M a r g i e l a G R O U P : L’ O r é a l F R A G R A N C E : « U n t i t l e d » L A U N C H DAT E : F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0

OLFACTIVE FAMILY :

- Woody, Green, Citrus

H O U S E : J e a n Pa u l G a u l t i e r G R O U P: B P IF R A G R A N C E : « C l a s s i q u e X » L A U N C H DAT E : F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0

IN THE Air

I nspired by the fashion collection, Classique X is an exquisite fragrance, created as a second skin. Its luminous start is t inged with citrusy notes of Mandarine and Bergamot, while the scent is wrapped in a bouquet of

Orange blossom and refined Peony. The sensual approach l ies in a bed of Vanil la and secret Orris.

The tempting bottle is the emblematic bust, dressed in frosted glass, and crisscrossed by a transparent X. A necklace is wrapped around the bottle and leaves a black lacquer X nestled in the cleavage.

C O N C E P T :

OLFACTIVE FAMILY : - Floral, Citrus, Orange Flower, Aquatic, Musky

IN THE Air

C O N C E P T :

J eanne is the f irst name of fashion designer Jeanne Lanvin after whom the perfume is named and to whom it pays tr ibute in an updated yet faithful mode.

Just l ike her creations, the scent is simple and fresh. This aspect of the fragrance’s personality comes across the new incarnation, Jeanne La Rose. It is st i l l s imple but catches the myth with the symbolic perfumer ’s f lower. This new fragrance is an elegant soli f lore, where the Rose resides at the top mixed with Blackcurrant and Raspberry, as well as in the heart, as the Bulgarian Rose. The fond marries Cedarwood, new Musks and Benzoin.

The bottle is the same as the original one, adorned in pale pink tulle pompoms and dusty pink and decorated with a drawing of a tulle rose.

H O U S E : L a n v i n G R O U P : I n t e r - Pa r f u m s F R A G R A N C E : « J e a n n e L a n v i n L a Ro s e » L A U N C H DAT E : F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0

OLFACTIVE FAMILY : - Floral, Rose, Fruity, Musky

IN THE Air

C O N C E P T :

H O U S E : Wo l f g a n g J o o p G R O U P : C o t y Pr e s t i g e F R A G R A N C E : « Fr e i g e i s t » L A U N C H DAT E : F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0

A fter a f irst signature fragrance Wolfgang Joop form 2008, this new masculine fragrance is called Freigeist and represents a daring, courageous, and provocative scent.

The fragrance has a German name Freigeist (freethinker) and an unusual composit ion of fresh fougere for a man with a free spir i t . The composit ion incorporates a Fresh breeze complex and gin notes in the top, Jasmine in the heart, Leather, Mahogany and Suede woods in the base.

The Advertising campaign is a picture of men and women of all ages, shapes and sizes, including a watercolor painting on the outer carton, suggesting beauty in all i ts forms. The petrol blue bottle is shaped l ike its orange antecedent.

OLFACTIVE FAMILY : - Woody, Ambery, Green, Powdery

NEW WIN drom

A mande Persane is l ike a travel guide opening out to far away places. The Persian kingdom unveils gardens where Almond

trees offer beauty to the soul and freshness to the body. The new fresh fragrant water by Roger & Gallet features a mix of essential oi ls, start ing with Bergamot and Tangerine, the heart is a f lowery accord of bitter Almond and absolute Orris, while the fond is absolute Tonka bean and Cedarwood.

C O N C E P T :

H O U S E : Ro g e r & G a l l e t G R O U P: L’ O r é a lF R A G R A N C E : « A m a n d e Pe r s a n e » L A U N C H DAT E : A p r i l 2 0 1 0

OLFACTIVE FAMILY :

Oriental, Fresh,

Floral�

PERFUMER : Delphine Jelk

- Paris

www.roger-gallet.com

NEW WIN drom

F lowerparty is a bright and cheerful scent out to make one irresist ible. In the explosive freshness of the top notes translates the zest for l i fe.

A t the top, the Orange and Tangerine bond together in a zesty explosion of vitality and optimism. The Raspberry and Lychee nectar give vibrant colours to l i fe clearly attracting attention. The dry down unveils the noble raw materials, absolute Rose and Vanil la and this sensual trail creates an addictive effect.

C O N C E P T :

PERFUMER : Philippe Romano

- Paris

H O U S E : Y v e s Ro c h e r G R O U P: Y v e s Ro c h e r g r o u pF R A G R A N C E : « F LO W E R PA R T Y» L A U N C H DAT E : F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0Y V E S R O C H E R P R E S S A G E N T: S é v e r i n e B o k o b z a

www.yves-rocher.com

OLFACTIVE FAMILY : - Floral, Fruity

NEW WIN drom

C O N C E P T :

PERFUMER : Pierre Constantin Guéros

- Germany

H O U S E : Po l i c e G R O U P : M a v i v e F R A G R A N C E : « Pu r e D N A h o m m e » L A U N C H DAT E : F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0

www.police.it

F ragrant pair Pure Police Pure DNA Homme and Femme was introdu-ced in the second half OF 2009 and underl ines the wil l of Police, that is “Back to the origins”.

Top notes of Pure Police Pure DNA homme seduce with Lemon, Carda-mom, Nutmeg Leaves, Bay leaves. The heart is created with Lavender, Amber wood accord, Cashmere wood, Wormwood, while the base embra-ces Orange blossom, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Resins, and Tonka bean.

The duo bottles have the same shape as the original fragrance: Pure, but in black and white f lacons with a soft leather touch cover.

OLFACTIVE FAMILY : - Fougere - Woody Ambery - Spicy

PERFUMER’S portrait

Pierre Constantin Guéros

Chronological Portrait

1974 Birth in Paris, in the 17th distr ict, the 3rd of July (just l ike Tom Cruise), of Greek and Auvergne origin.

1992 Chemistry and Biology studies, and after,the bases of perfumery at ISIPCA .

1996 First perfumer ’s pleasure: the smell of damascones. most recent one: Nigella absolute,

the smell is l ike fresh honey.

2001 Beginnings at drom, as evaluator of Fine Fragrances.

2002 First formula: a powdery note, to rework without nitro-Musk.

2006-2009 Perfumer in the New York studio. the f irst step towards other creative centres.

2008 Favourite creation: NOOKA one.

2010 Perfumer in the Munich headquarters.

Interview

What could be the qualities in the industry facing the user:Self regulation: to anticipate, to inform, to l imit and, sometimes, to forbid potentially dangerous substances. It seems obvious to me to keep from my formulas some natural raw materials, precious and rare, as for example Indian Sandalwood or Rosewood. I pay more and more attention to the source of each natural jewel, essential oi ls and absolutes that I am using in my creations. I am really happy to create hypoallergenic or baby notes, ECOCERT labelled, or 100% natural and, by chance our suppliers offer some special qualit ies of raw materials, such as Organic or Fair Trade.

If you would have to describe your job, your passion:As a perfumer, I am really touched by the beauty of the world, i ts wonderful resources, i ts r ichness. The natural environment inspires me a lot in my creations. With luck I got to work for a couple of years with drom in the USA , I discovered a fabulous richness, a huge fauna and flora.

You seem to have a green conscience of the impact of perfume on the environment. What would be your combat message in the perfume industry?To take care of the Earth means to protect human beings also. Perfume is an all-day product, inside our l i fes, that is why it is necessary to look upon it. There are a lot of safety rules which could frustrate the creativity of the perfumer. In that challenge I st i l l see my own responsibil i ty.

CONCEPT TRENDOLFACTIVE trendPackaging design is a strategic game, result of a process

that confers brand spir it and expresses artistic identity. Today, packaging offers a simplicity

cure with different interpretations of white. The revival

of white in perfume packaging follows a strong trend,

proving a need to break away from the actual l ines, and

All-WhiteAn expression of unity ....

to be present on the luxury market . White and its various shades have always been strongly present in our environment. They preserve the traces of passing time and are an expression of unity, purity and honesty. It reassures us. Such as Maison Martin Margiela Untitled with its minimal architecture, neutral yet fr iendly. Also, the reassuring pack of Close by Gap, crystal clear pack to show the ir idescent bottle. Elegance is portrayed by the clean white of the packaging in the Eau de Fleurs by Chloé, Lavande, Néroli, Capucine. A return to essential codes of perfumery for Balenciaga, high quality and sober image wrapped in beige. Déclaration Cologne by Cartier, as well as the Burberry Sport for women underl ines a sporty and adventurous version of purity.