connect the shade sail - mitre 10 · pdf filea shade sail which has been mounted and tensioned...

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MATERIALS: F Shade sail & accessories F 125 x 125 h5 post F Coach bolts F Coach screws F Concrete F Scoria or other base course F TOOLS: F Hammer F Battery drill F Drill bits F Handsaw F Hack saw F Socket set F Ruler F Pencil F Tape measure F Wheelbarrow F Spade F Clamps F Ladder SAIL HOW TO PUT UP A SHADE WHAT YOU’LL NEED Take this into store with you to make sure you get everything in one trip. For this project the following materials and equipment are required: CONNECT THE SHADE SAIL J Now determine the fixing accessories that you’ll need to secure your shade sail. J There is an extensive range of fixing accessories available. It is important to note that your shade sail will require at least two of the accessories to be tensioning devices. If required, stainless steel or galvanised chain can be used to extend your shade sail corners to a fixing point. J Connect the shade sail to the fixing accessories; leave one of the tensioning fixing points for last. J Once all corners of the shade sail have been connected adjust the tension in the fixing accessories. A shade sail which has been mounted and tensioned correctly will have little to no creases. Stop tensioning when the shade sail is rigid with little creases. A ratchet tie down strap can be used temporarily to assist in tensioning the structure. Ensure that all accessories face towards the middle of the shade sail and are secure. J You may find that after seven days, the sail has settled and a little more tensioning is required. Tensioning may also be required from time to time. Your shade sail should be firm and tight to reduce wind flap. Shade sail fabric which is loose can cause the fabric to deteriorate. Never over tension, tension only by hand, and only tight enough to remove creases. Over tensioning can also cause damage to your shade sail. Get all the help you need online at mitre10.co.nz/easyas Mitre 10 Handy Hints: • Do not use a fire (or patio heater) close to the fabric and do not use your barbeque under the shade sail. • Take your sail down in strong wind conditions.

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Page 1: CONNECT THE SHADE SAIL - Mitre 10 · PDF fileA shade sail which has been mounted and tensioned ... and leave to set for 48 hours. J We recommend using concrete with a minimum of 20Mpa

MATERIALS: F Shade sail & accessories F 125 x 125 h5 post F Coach bolts F Coach screws F Concrete F Scoria or other base course

F TOOLS: F Hammer F Battery drill F Drill bits F Handsaw F Hack saw F Socket set F Ruler F Pencil F Tape measure F Wheelbarrow F Spade F Clamps F Ladder

SAILHOW TO PUT UP A

SHADE

WHAT YOU’LL NEEDTake this into store with you to make sure you get everything in one trip. For this project the following materials and equipment are required:

CONNECT THE SHADE SAIL

J Now determine the fixing accessories that you’ll need to secure your shade sail.

J There is an extensive range of fixing accessories available. It is important to note that your shade sail will require at least two of the accessories to be tensioning devices. If required, stainless steel or galvanised chain can be used to extend your shade sail corners to a fixing point.

J Connect the shade sail to the fixing accessories; leave one of the tensioning fixing points for last.

JOnce all corners of the shade sail have been connected adjust the tension in the fixing accessories. A shade sail which has been mounted and tensioned correctly will have little to no creases. Stop tensioning when the shade sail is rigid with little creases. A ratchet tie down strap can be used temporarily to assist in tensioning the structure. Ensure that all accessories face towards the middle of the shade sail and are secure.

J You may find that after seven days, the sail has settled and a little more tensioning is required. Tensioning may also be required from time to time. Your shade sail should be firm and tight to reduce wind flap. Shade sail fabric which is loose can cause the fabric to deteriorate. Never over tension, tension only by hand, and only tight enough to remove creases. Over tensioning can also cause damage to your shade sail.

Get all the help you need online at

mitre10.co.nz/easyas

Mitre 10 Handy Hints:• Do not use a fire (or patio heater) close to the

fabric and do not use your barbeque under the shade sail.

• Take your sail down in strong wind conditions.

Easy As Shade Sail.indd 1-4 29/09/14 3:50 pm

Page 2: CONNECT THE SHADE SAIL - Mitre 10 · PDF fileA shade sail which has been mounted and tensioned ... and leave to set for 48 hours. J We recommend using concrete with a minimum of 20Mpa

When the warm weather comes around it’s great to make the most of your backyard, but with our harsh sun sometimes you want a little extra shade and this is when a shade sail makes all the difference. They are also a great way to add on a whole extra living space to your property. Putting up a shade sail is a pretty straightforward job.

For more Easy As Guides visit mitre10.co.nz

Limitation of LiabilityThis project planner has been produced to provide basic information and our experienced staff are available to answer any questions you may have. Because this planner is general in nature, neither your Mitre 10 supplier nor their staff are responsible for the application of these design principles in any particular case, as the contents of this brochure may need to be modified for the particular site and circumstances.Mitre 10 is not responsible for the quality of work carried out on the goods by the consumer and is not responsible for the design or construction of any structure in which the goods are incorporated.Where applicable consumers should ensure that they comply with The New Zealand Building Code and/or Local Body Bylaws in respect of any such structures.Consumers are advised to call a qualified tradesman such as a builder, electrician or plumber where expert services are required.Mitre 10 will not be liable for any consequential loss howsoever arising from the use of goods sold, nor for any loss caused by defective or inadequate structures in which goods are incorporated.

CHOOSE YOUR SHADE SAILConsider:1. Shape – do you want a triangle, square or rectangle

sail?2. Size – what space do you want to cover and what sizes

are available?3. Location – where can you have attachment points and

will you need to put in posts to attach to?

PREPARE FOR YOUR SHADE SAIL

J Lay out the sail, keep the fabric relaxed and don’t pull it too tight.

J Calculate the space you need to leave between each corner of the relaxed sail and the structural fixing points (this is to allow for tensioning). You need to leave at least 10% of the sail length. For example, if the sail is 3m x 3m square at each corner you need to have a gap of at least 300mm.

J Now mark out the points where you want to fix your sail to. Generally you’ll need fixing points on the side of your house and then away from your house as well. Start by attaching the fixing points on the side of your house first. Fixing points on your house need to go into the fascia (the fascia is the horizontal board the guttering is attached to).

J For standalone posts mark out where you need to dig holes for them to go in. The centre of the hole should line up with the point of the sail corner. You could use treated timber posts (round posts use minimum 125mm diameter, or square posts 125mm x 125mm) or a galvanised steel post at least 4mm thick (round minimum 100mm diameter, or square 100mm x 100mm).

JOnce you’ve decided where you want the fixing points to be check they are structurally sound. When fixing into your fascia you want the hook to be aligned with your roof rafter. Nails are a sign of where your rafter is behind the fascia. If you can’t see the nails, you can tap the soffit as you should be able to hear where there is a rafter. You can drill through the fascia into the rafter and fix the hook in place. If you can’t find a rafter, or its not where you want to put your hook, you will need to go into the roof and attach a fascia support bracket to the rafter so you can then connect a pad eye to the front of the fascia, which allows the hook to be screwed in securely. If this is the case and, you’re not familiar with working within your roof its worthwhile consulting an expert for advice.

J Be safe using a ladder. Ensure your ladder’s feet are flat on the ground and that the ground is level. Secure the ladder well and keep three points of contact with it at all times. Never over-reach sideways.

J To install standalone posts, dig holes for them to go in. The depth of the hole will depend on the size of the shade sail. Dig an 800mm hole for a 3m shade sail and 1200mm hole for a 5m shade sail.

J Remember before digging to make sure you check with your local council for any pipes and wires in the ground as you don’t’ want to hit those!

J If you’re working with soft ground then you’ll need to put a 100mm layer of concrete into the hole first followed by a 100mm of base course, such as scoria, on top of it. If you’re on firm ground you’ll only need the 100mm of base course.

800mm

400mm

400mm

1200mm

400mm

400mm

100mm

100mm Concrete pad

Concretefooting

100mm20mm dia.gravel, laid at base of post

Concretefooting

Hole for a 3m size shade sail

Soft ground

Hole for a 5m or larger size shade sail

J Place the post in the hole, if it is not going to be supported by a deck or anything else then tilt the post 5° away from the shade sail as this will provide additional support. (5° equates to 50mm per 1m).

J Pour in concrete and pack down well. The top of the concrete surface should be sloping away from the posts to assist with water drainage. Brace the post and leave to set for 48 hours.

JWe recommend using concrete with a minimum of 20Mpa and not a quick set concrete. Always mix the concrete following the manufacturer’s instructions, these should be clearly labelled on the packet.

Firm ground

Easy As Shade Sail.indd 5-8 29/09/14 3:50 pm