C O N V E R S A T I O N S

BRUNELLO CUCINELLIWITH A HEART AS SOFT AS THE FINEST ITALIAN FABRICS AND A MIND SHARP FULL OF THE CLASSICS, CASHMERE CONNOISSEUR BRUNELLO CUCINELLI RELEASES HIS MOST FORMAL MEN’S SUITING COLLECTION TO DATE.BY JOSHUA GLASS

Brunello Cucinelli first began in 1978 as a small, five-person operation catering to wom-en who valued high-end cashmere. How did the decision to broaden the brand’s vision to menswear come about? Was it difficult adjust-ing your design eye?The expansion of our collection into the mens-wear world was very organic. It started with knit-wear, as that was the beginning of our brand, and soon after evolved into full looks focused on high-quality with a unique neutral color palate. I had a very personal relationship with it, as I found myself wanting to wear the brand and creating pieces that would work for my lifestyle. We have evolved into many different aspects of menswear apparel since, but have kept a lot of the same val-ues we had over 35 years ago. Is cashmere still important to you today?From outerwear to shoe laces, we still incorporate cashmere into many of our pieces. The timeless quality of the elegant yarn is what I have always been attracted to—it creates an emotional con-nection with the person wearing it; [he or she] never wants to part ways. It is a noble fiber and will always represent the root of our business.

Men still very much have a learning curve in the scope of fashion, and because of that, menswear is constantly changing. How has Brunello Cucinelli found its male-footing throughout the decades?In the past eight years we have experienced a con-tinuous evolution of the brand. We first entered menswear aiming to provide men with looks they could wear on weekends and out of the office. With our most recent launch of a formal suiting collection and evening wear, we can now dress that man sev-en days a week; from the office to more casual mo-ments, but always maintaining the same aesthet-ic of refined yet relaxed luxury. The beauty of our men’s collections is the consistency of high-quality craftsmanship and distinctive Italian taste.

And so this season we see Brunello Cucinelli’s first-ever expanded offering of proper suiting. I listened to my customers, and I saw a general return to the idea of dressing well in menswear, which prompted me to explore this new arena. I always thought that suiting could be an interesting evolution for us, as men want to have a relaxed and elegant feel—even when wearing a suit. Now that you’re dressing him seven days a week, can you tell us a little more about who the Cucinelli man is? He is a man who appreciates quality and simplicity. One who believes in substance, not only surface values. An educated man who cares about the world around him. Someone who believes dignity and integrity are also apparent in the way he dress-es and not just in his behavior. You’ve described your company’s ethos as “a humanist enterprise,” which is perhaps not the most immediate description when one thinks of a global fashion house. Did you start off with the desire to start a fashion revolution or did you just arrive there by chance?When I was a young man, I was very touched by seeing my father come home from his factory job feeling humiliated and mistreated by his boss. It was difficult for him, but a choice he had made to try to give our family a better life. [Because of that], I always knew that anything I would do, I would focus on bringing dignity and respect to those around me. The success of Brunello Cuicinelli is the result of these values. How does this interest in humanity translate directly to the Brunello Cucinelli product?The brand is an expression of the care and atten-tion to detail that goes into the company as a whole, with the people included. When you take

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care of your employees by giving them a nicer work environment, better offices, and a work-life bal-ance, you ultimately make them more creative and productive. They feel both proud and committed. As a result of this philosophy, we have been able to create a beautiful, made-in-Italy product that is not only luxurious and with high-craftsmanship, but that also maintains integrity. Many of the guiding lights that you use to steer your business are taken from the great texts from the likes of Socrates and Seneca. Where did this interest in philoso-phy come from?I have always believed in the importance of con-tinuing to strengthen the mind. I am constantly learning and expanding my knowledge—whether it is from the people I work with, in the classroom, or through philosophers. These scholars have very valuable lessons when it comes to enterprise, purity, and human connection. It is important to humble oneself to the teachings of others, and I am no exception.

The lifeblood of the company is the hamlet of Solomeo, a 14th century Italian village that—amidst time-worn walls, a historic hill, and the central Italian landscape—included a castle, the ancient Villa Antinori, and a small, sleepy forest of greenery when you purchased the territory and renovated it completely in 1985. Why did you choose this particular site?I grew up in Umbria. Solomeo is a charming town in [the same region], and is where my wife was raised. I felt inspired to restore a place that was so special to her. There is such natural beauty in to this part of the world and it is a place I feel very connected to. It has become the heart of our brand and where I draw much of my inspiration for the collection.

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Today the property not only sees revived for-tresses that house your offices, workshops, and company canteens, but other special proj-ects as well. Inside Solomeo, the recently-es-tablished Brunello Cucinelli Foundation echos your charitable crusades. My vision is to continue a brand experience beyond clothing, give back to the community, and ultimate-ly create a better quality of life for all the people around our company and town. The [foundation] has created a youth center, school of arts and crafts, a theater, a hospital, and a library. It brings me se-renity and pleasure to create change beyond what the brand is already doing in fashion. Brunello Cucinelli has been such a powerful name in fashion for a long time now. Anchored by all this storied legacy and a literal village, where is the brand heading?Like one of my favorite philosophers Marcus Aure-lius used to say, “Live every day as if it was your last, but project until eternity.” Every decision we make is based on a vision for the brand to have a lasting fu-ture. For example, when we built the theater in Sol-omeo to bring our community together through art and culture, we believed the building could last hundreds of years and always service a purpose for future generations. I put a tremendous importance on tradition, heritage, and the purity of the brand.

My vision is to continue a brand experience beyond

clothing, give back to the community, and

ultimately create a better quality of life for all

the people around our company and town.

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