Cookbook of the Balkans: A Culinary Tour through Prokletije/Bjeshkët e Nemuna

Kosovo, Montenegro & Albania

By Raleigh Keagan

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Forward

The nations and people of the Balkans have been in the midst of

a sustained and often volatile tumultuously changing political and

geographical environment for decades. One negative side effect of such

a history is a threat to identity. However, my recent trip through

Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania proved just the opposite. Not only

has the region retained a strong collective identity and pride, each

individual country has a beautiful and rich sense of self that

additionally adds to the whole.

There are many unique aspects of the Balkans that aid in the

identity of the people and culture, but something in particular that

stood out to me was their amazing and delicious cuisine. While many

dishes have different names or spelling (if only off by a letter!), there is

an undeniable commonality of cuisine stretching across borders. The

subtle differences among the similarities highlight the uniqueness that

each country has to offer, as well as the collective baseline identity

largely shared in the region.

The pride and effort dedicated to the cuisine in the Balkans is

apparent not only in the delectable dishes, but also in the presentation

and generosity of the people. Food is not simply sustenance, it is an

experience. It is a gift to be shared with visitors and an event to be

enjoyed with friends and family. The focus paid in creating each item

and the genuine giving nature of the people are historical cultural

aspects that have not wavered in the face of an ever-changing

environment, which has solidified these traits as central to Balkan

identity.

My privileged experiences in Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania

exposed me to an entirely new way of thinking about food. I wanted not

only to remember the delicious recipes for my own enjoyment and

sharing upon returning home, I wanted to honor the beautiful people I

met and the wondrous culture and cuisine by creating something to

memorialize the experience. In Cookbook o f the Balkans: A Culinary

Tour through Prokletije/Bjeshkët e Nemuna — Kosovo, Montenegro &

Albania, I have gathered several recipes that I had the great fortune to enjoy

during my travels, photos of the generous people who served and

shared their scrumptious secrets, and a few personal experiences along

the way. What you are reading is a small snippet of the fantastic cuisine

and culture the Balkans have to offer, and I hope to continue to add

more as my travels continue. Please enjoy!

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A Bit on the History

As the majority of national borders drawn in the Balkans have

been arbitrarily marked largely for political purposes, rather than the

recognition of natural and cultural defining areas, so too we find the

extent of cuisine influence to ignore those arbitrary lines marked on a

map. Much of the Balkan cuisine was influenced and shows strong ties

to Turkish foods, as a result of the Ottoman Empire’s occupation. The

prominent (and delicious!) presence of yogurt in many dishes is also

reminiscent of ancient Persian cuisine.

The persistence of similarities in cuisine throughout the

Balkan region, particularly despite the existence of a continuously

changing political structure and presence, as well as the apparent

variance in levels of development and often minimized contact with

people across borders within the region, exemplifies how significant

the cuisine is to the Balkan identity. Also, a history of eating at home

(rather than dining out at restaurants) has helped maintain the

integrity of Balkan cuisine. As cooking in this part of the world has

historically been (and to a large degree still is) a traditional role

performed by women, and many communist countries saw the

majority of meals being eaten at home, women cooked what they

learned from their mother and their mother’s mother, and so on. These

practices and cultural norms reinforced a strong historic identity of

Balkan cuisine, rather than being readily influenced by the next regime

that waltzed in.

Balkan cuisine is largely dependent and reflective of the

season and is often gathered from local ingredients. Food has an

important social role in the region. It is often made to stimulate the

appetite rather than satisfy, to help pass along the afternoon while

enjoying moderate/copious amounts of wine or Raki (recipe below!).

The cuisine is a central part of the identity of this region, and I am

proud to share even just a sliver of their historically unique and

delicious dishes.

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Acknowledgements

While I cannot pay the deserved tribute to everyone who

helped me in creating this recipe guide, I wish to send my sincerest

thanks to all of the people in Kosovo, Montenegro and Albania who so

generously and enthusiastically shared their houses, their food and

their intricate cooking knowledge. Your perspective on food has forever

changed my view on it, and for that alone, I cannot thank you enough.

Particular thanks to Mrs. Selma Faro, Mrs. Lula Gjecaj, Geoffrey

Dabelko, Todd Walters and International Peace Parks Expeditions. And

of course to Mrs. Shkodra from Thethi, Albania, pictured below. Our

Mom away from home.

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Phyllo 6

Sarma 8

Tomato Cucumber Salad 10

Hurmshece 11

Omelet “Lula” 12

Balkan Goulash Soup 14

Gabaneca 16

Jufke 18

Burek 22

Mantije 24

Stuffed Green Peppers 26

Baklava 28

Raki 30

Table of Contents

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Phyllo/ Fila/Filo/Yufka

This thin, flaky pastry dough goes by a variety of different

names, but is one of the most prevalent items throughout the

region and is a staple in many dishes in Balkan cuisine. For ease

in making a number of the other recipes included, phyllo may

be purchased in large, thin pasta-like sheets, generally found in

the international section in a grocery store. But I will note that I

have had the privilege of seeing the home-made process and

experiencing the deliciousness, and I highly recommend it if

one has the time.

Ingredients

Water – 1 liter

Flour – 7 oz. (200 g)

Salt

Cream

Directions

Mix water, flour and salt, slowly adding water to flour

In a large round baking dish, pour, or brush on one thin

layer of the mixture

Add a thin covering of cream on top

Bake in oven at 400° F (200° C) for 1 hour

Remove, add another layer of the mixture, then another

layer of the cream, place back in oven for 1 hour

Repeat until mixture is finished

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8

Sarma

This dish is often traditionally served for weddings and

religious holidays, though I was privileged to enjoy the

deliciousness on an ordinary day. Like many foods described

here, Sarma originates from the Turkish Ottoman Empire. It is

often served with yogurt, and is a favorite at Christmas meals.

The wonderful Mrs. Selma Faro, who runs a guesthouse I

stayed at in Montenegro, served this delightful dish and then

so graciously humored my interest by describing the recipe.

Sarma is merely one of the outstanding authentic Balkan

dishes she so generously served. Relatively easy to create, but

simply delicious to eat!

Ingredients

Large head of cabbage – 1

Lean ground beef – 1 lb. (can also add ½ lb. ground pork

and/or ½ lb. ground ham if desired)

Uncooked long-grain rice, white – 1 cup

Onion, finely chopped – 1

Bell pepper, finely chopped – 1

Large carrot, finely chopped – 1 to 2

Egg – 1

Garlic, finely chopped – 2 to 3 cloves

Salt – 1 tsp., to taste

Coarse ground black pepper – 1 tsp., to taste

Additional spices, dried – to taste

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Directions

Boil cabbage and separate into individual leaves

In large bowl, combine all other ingredients, mix well

Form meat mixture into oblong balls/rolls, about the size of a

golf ball

Place 1 meat roll into 1 cabbage leaf and fold like an eggroll

or burrito, so mixture won’t fall out

Repeat until all of meat mixture and/or cabbage leaves are

used

Place Sarma in large pot, pour in just enough water to cover

and bring to boil

Reduce heat to simmer, cook for 1.5 – 2 hours, adding more

water as needed

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Tomato Cucumber Salad

While this dish is relatively self-explanatory, it is ever-present

in the Balkans and deserves recognition. Wonderfully fresh

and light, especially when offered alongside the delicious, yet

heavy breads, meats and cheeses that dominate much of this

cuisine, the tomato cucumber salad is a must at any Balkan

inspired meal!

Ingredients

Tomato

Cucumber

Olive oil

Optional:

Feta

Spinach

Capers

Olives

Directions

Cut up tomato and cucumber, and any other ingredients

you wish to include

Drizzle with olive oil

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Hurmshece/Hurmasice

While I have not yet had the chance to enjoy this cookie-cake like

dish myself, I am told it is wonderful for birthdays and other

festive occasions. This recipe is another one of Mrs. Selma Faro’s,

and if it came from her kitchen I can guarantee it will be good!

Ingredients

Eggs – 2

Sugar – 2 ½ cups

Vegetable oil – 1 cup

Baking powder – 1 tsp.

Flour – 2+ cups

Water – 2 cups

Optional

Sweetened shredded coconut chopped – 3.5 oz. (100 g)

Sour milk – 2 cups

Directions

Mix eggs with 2 cups of sugar, until sugar melts

Mix in oil, coconut (if including), vanilla and baking powder

Add flour, ½ cup at a time, mixing slowly; enough for mixture

to be stuck together, softer than pizza dough

Grease bottom of baking pan

Roll pieces of dough into little logs, a few inches long

Place rolls on baking pan, all next to each other

Bake at 390° F (200° C) for 15-25 minutes; until golden

Syrup

Boil water and remaining sugar while cake is baking

Keep on medium heat until all sugar dissolves

Remove cake from oven and immediately pour syrup over

entire cake

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Omelet “Lula”

A specialty of Mrs. Lula Gjecaj (Lula means flower in

Albanian, a lovely name for an equally lovely person!). Mrs.

Lula runs one of the generous guesthouses I stayed at in

pristine Thethi, Albania. She and her husband have an

organic farm next to the guesthouse, from which they are able

to produce nearly, if not all of the delicious food they serve

and enjoy. Particular portions of the ingredients of this dish

can be adjusted depending on the desired meal size.

Ingredients

Potatoes

Onions

Tomatoes

Eggs

Peppers

Salt

Directions

Cut potatoes in circular form

Sauté vegetables in a pan over medium heat, starting with

the onion, then adding in the peppers and potatoes

Add tomatoes and some water, let boil 5-7 min

Pour all ingredients into a baking pan, cover vegetables

with whisked eggs

Bake in oven until it takes on a good color (10-15 min)

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14

Balkan Goulash Soup

During my visit, I had many different varieties of delicious soups

encompassing all sorts of yummy ingredients. The one described

here brings many of those flavors together, and one can play

around with the inclusion or exclusion of certain ingredients to

morph the dish into a sister soup.

Ingredients

Vegetable oil – 2 tbsp.

Onions, diced – 2

Celery, chopped – 1 cup

Garlic, minced – 2 large cloves

Paprika – 3 tbsp.

Thyme leaves, dried – 1 tsp.

Tomatoes, chopped finely or run through blender – 4 to 5, or

28 oz. can

Sauerkraut, drained – 8 oz.

Smoked sausage, cut into ¼ inch slides – 1 lb.

Parsley, chopped

Lean beef, cubed – 1 ½ lb.

Brown sugar -- 2 tbsp.

Caraway seeds – 1 ½ tsp.

Beef broth – 6 cups

Potatoes, peeled and diced – 3 cups

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Directions

Heat oil in large soup pot over medium heat

Add cubes of beef, increase heat to medium high, quickly

browning on all sides

Add onions, celery and garlic; sauté until vegetables are

soft

Add paprika, brown sugar, thyme and caraway; toss to

thoroughly coat vegetables and meat, 2 to 3 minutes

Add tomatoes, beef broth and sauerkraut

Reduce heat to a simmer, partially cover pot and cook 2

hours

Add potatoes, cook additional 30 minutes, partially

covered

Add sliced sausage, cook 15 minutes, uncovered

Note: Flavor is enhanced if dish is stored in refrigerator 1

day prior to eating

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Gabaneca

Deliciously creamy. Also originates from the Turkish Ottoman

Empire.

Ingredients

Phyllo dough, thawed – 1 lb.

Sour cream – 1 cup

Eggs – 6

Feta, broken into small pieces – 2 lbs.

Butter, melted – ½ lb.

Flour – ½ cup

Salt – tsp., to taste

Optional:

Vegetables

Spices

Directions

Beat eggs until frothy

Add sifted flour and salt; beat well

Add sour cream; mix well

Add cheese and mix/fold into mixture thoroughly

Grease 13x9x2 inch pan

Layer 2 sheets of phyllo on bottom of pan

Pour 2 tablespoons of melted better over dough, brush

to edges to cover completely

Spread 6 large spoonfuls of cheese mixture over

bottom layer

Repeat dough, butter and cheese mixture layering

until 2 sheets phyllo remain

Add last two sheets on top and pour remaining butter

over dough

Bake uncovered at 325° F (160° C) for 45 minutes

(Depending on oven and ingredients, can range

from 30-60 minutes)

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18

Jufke (Pita Sa Sirom)

This delicious dish is somewhere between American Lasagna and

Turkish Borek (meat pie). It takes a bit of patience but if you can put in

the time you will end up with something everyone will marvel at. I

enjoyed this warm dish on a chilly evening in Hijla, Montenegro, near

the border with Kosovo. Staying in a high mountain lodge, this warm,

hearty dish was a perfect ending to a long, chilly, gorgeous day.

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Ingredients

Olive oil – 6 tbsp.

Green peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped – 1 lb.

Pul biber/Aleppo pepper – 1 tbsp.

Onion, large, coarsely chopped – 1

Salt and pepper — to taste

Ground beef – 2 lb.

Canola oil – ¾ cup +

Eggs, large – 5

Milk – 1 cup

Phyllo (yufka) dough – 16 oz. package

Nigella sativa (black cumin seeds) – 2 tbsp.

Optional:

Tomato sauce — 16. oz. jar

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Directions

Heat olive oil over medium heat

Add green peppers, pub biber, onion, salt and pepper

Cook about 10 minutes, until softened, stirring frequently

Add beef, cook about 10 minutes, until liquid has evaporated

Season with salt and pepper

Cook about 15 more minutes, until vegetables are soft, stirring

occasionally

Remove meat and vegetables to plate, cool slightly

In bowl, whisk eggs, milk and ½ cup canola oil

Grease 9x13 inch baking dish

Lay 2 sheets of phyllo in bottom of dish, brushing each sheet with

egg mixture

Pour ⅓ of beef/vegetable mixture over sheets

If using, top with tomato sauce

Repeat 2 more layers, top with phyllo and brushed egg mixture

Tuck overhanging top sheet into pan

Sprinkle nigella sativa seeds on top

Bake at 400° F (200° C) about 45 minutes, until top is sizzling and

golden

Let cool 20 minutes

Top with yogurt or chili, if desired

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22

Burek/Byrek/Barek

Byrek, meaning pie, is another item that comes with many

names, and also many varieties. This yummy dish is

frequently served for a hearty breakfast, and is also

common as a side dish for dinner or lunch. They are often

swirled in a coil-like shape, handy for on-the-go. The

spinach variety resembles spanakopita. I have included

recipes for meat and vegetarian varieties below. While the

ingredients vary slightly the directions are the same. The

spinach recipe was generously provided by Mrs. Lula

Gjecaj , and you can adjust the amounts for the ingredients

depending on how much you want to make.

Ingredients, Meat Burek

Phyllo Dough

Veal, minced – 17.5 oz. (500 g)

Beef, minced – 9 oz. (250 g)

Onions – 4

Butter, melted – 1 oz. (25 g)

Egg yolks – 2

Salt and pepper – to taste

Ingredients, Spinach Byrek

Phyllo Dough

Spinach, cut into small pieces

Cream

Feta, broken into small pieces

Butter, melted – 1 oz. (25 g)

Egg yolks – 2

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Directions

Roll dough out on table until very thin, leave to rest and dry

Cut dough into 4 equal pieces

Cover dough with thin layer of melted butter

In a bowl, mix together either the meat and onions OR the

spinach, cream and pieces of cheese

Pour meat or spinach filling at the edge of one side of dough,

roll to create sausage-like pastry

Use round baking pan to create spiral, starting from the

middle of the dish

Another option: instead of rolling the pastry, you can

lay 3 sheets of phyllo in the bottom of the pan,

buttering between each, then layer the spinach or

meat mixture, then topping it with 3 more sheets

of phyllo and butter

Bake at 400° F (200° C) for 20-25 minutes

Before dish is completely baked, pour melted butter mixed in

warm water over top of pastry

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Mantije (Pita Sa Mesom)

This was by far my favorite dish I had during my visit.

Outwardly simple, yet inwardly wondrously delicious, I happily

enjoyed Mantije throughout my trip in all three countries. They

were frequently nestled in amongst the myriad of delicacies and

generous spreads I was treated to, but I could always spot them –

and generally eat more than my fill. Bit-sized and packed with

flavor, these are a great appetizer, and also work well as a side

dish for any meal. Mantije is a traditional dish particularly in

Montenegro and Kosovo, but can be readily found throughout

the region. Its prominence was likely influenced by the Ottoman

Empire’s presence in the Balkans. The dish can be made for any

occasion or for special occasions. It is a distant relative to “Manti”

eaten in Turkey, though there they are boiled, not baked. Mantije

can be made with cheese or meat, and if you opt for the former it

is recommended to use light cheese from a cow.

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Ingredients

Phyllo Dough – 2.2 lbs./35 oz. (1000 g)

Minced meat, roasted beef – 14 oz. (400 g)

Onion, chopped – 1 ½

Olive oil – 2 tbsp.

Yogurt – 3 tbsp.

Egg – 1

Salt and pepper – to taste

Directions

Sauté meat and onions on high until cooked thoroughly and

golden brown; season with salt and pepper

Roll out dough and cut into diamond pieces (roughly 2”x2”)

Place spoonful of meat in center of diamond and roll up by

pulling each corner over the top of the meat; turn over

and place onto greased baking tray

Mix yogurt, egg and oil, pour over rolls and leave for 1 hour

Bake in oven at 400° F (200° C) for 2 hours

Can add more yogurt and onion on top when cooked

Traditionally served with Ayran, a delicious salted yogurt

drink

26

Stuffed Green Peppers

Another delicious staple of the Balkans. I had many different

varieties while visiting, and this is merely one of the splendid

pepper dishes I enjoyed. Also look for sautéed green peppers

with feta!

Ingredients

Green Peppers – 8

Lean ground beef, minced – 1 lb.

Rice – ¼ cup

Garlic, chopped – 1 clove

Onion, chopped – 1

Tomato juice – 2 cups

Vinegar or wine – 4 tbsp.

Sugar – 3 tbsp.

Salt and pepper – to taste

Optional:

Chicken stock – 1 tbsp. powdered OR ¼ cup liquid

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Directions

Cut top off peppers (⅟4 – ⅛ inch). Keep tops!

Remove seeds

Combine meat, rice, garlic, onion and salt and pepper;

mix well

Pack mixture into each pepper, filling to ⅔ and replace

tops

Place peppers together snugly, upright in large

saucepan

Mix tomato juice, vinegar or wine (wine is

recommended!), sugar, and chicken stock if using

Pour liquid mixture over stuffed peppers

Add just enough water to cover peppers in pan, if the

tops are uncovered

Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer for roughly 1

hour, until peppers are tender and roughly ⅔ of

liquid is absorbed

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Baklava

This dish you have likely heard of before, but having the

truly authentic version is an entirely different experience,

which, thanks to the wonderful Mrs. Selma Faro and her

sharing this recipe, you can have the opportunity to enjoy.

Traditionally made for holidays or religious events,

Baklava is a sweet (very sweet!) dish that is, once again,

based off of the popular phyllo dough, but will give you a

sugar rush like nothing else.

Ingredients

Phyllo dough – 1 lb.

Walnuts, smashed – 4 to 5 cups

Raisins – 2 cups

Sugar – ½ cup

Cloves, ground – ½ tsp.

Cinnamon – 1 tsp.

Sweet butter – 1 lb.

Optional:

Orange zest

Honey

Syrup

Water – 2 ½ cups

Sugar – 3 cups

Lemon juice – 3 tsp.

Vanilla – 1 tsp.

.

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Directions

Mix nuts, raisins, cinnamon, cloves and sugar

Melt butter over medium high heat

Grease 14x10 ½ inch pan

Lay 5 sheets of phyllo in pan, brushing the top of each sheet

with melted butter

Spread nut mixture over dough

Lay 6 more sheets on top, buttering each layer

Cut into diamond shapes

Bake at 300° F (150° C) for about 1 ½ hours, until lightly

brown

Combine ingredients for syrup, boil for about 10 minutes and

let cool

Pour cooled syrup over hot pastry

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Raki

Raki is the drink of the Balkans. Known as Souma in Greece and

Grappa in Italy, this highly concentrated spirit is always present on a

Balkan dinner table (or sometimes breakfast!). Somewhat akin to home-

made moonshine popular in certain areas of North America, this drink

is often made by those serving it, and who generously keep your glass

full. It is made from a variety of different kinds of fruits, depending on

the location and time of year. In Montenegro, Raki is most commonly

made with purple grapes, but

other fruits are also used, such as:

plums; apples; pears; peaches; or

nectarines (the latter is described

as best and preferred option).

While some balk at the claim that

Raki has healing powers, I myself

have witnessed them first hand.

During my visit to the Balkans I

sprained my ankle on a hike and

limped all the way back to town.

After returning I rubbed some

Raki around my ankle and the

next morning I was good as new.

And much cheaper than a trip to

the emergency room some 4

hours away. As with most spirits,

Raki betters with age, often

changing color as it takes on

more years. The specific color

depends on the fruit used, for

instance apple and peach will

give off a golden color. There are

also specialized batches of Raki that are said to aid for certain ailments.

In the accompanying pictures, for instance, the bottle is noted for

“Nervosa”, for bad moods, so the maker tells me. And I can attest it did

indeed put us all in good spirits!

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Directions

Collect fruit in barrel – should be half full of fruit (the type

of fruit will depend on your location and time of year

Add water and sugar to barrel, let ferment (time)

Fire, distillation, boiling, steam, then distillation

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Gëzuar! Cheers!