cosmetic and toiletry formulations 2nd ed [vol 4] - e flick (noyes, 1989) ww

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COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORM U LATI 0 N S Second Edition Volume 4 bY Ernest W. Flick NOYES PUBLICATIONS Park Ridge, New Jersey, U.S.A.

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TRANSCRIPT

COSMETIC AND TOILETRY FORM U LATI 0 N S

Second Edition

Volume 4

bY

Ernest W. Flick

NOYES PUBLICATIONS Park Ridge, New Jersey, U.S.A.

Copyright 0 by Ernest W. Flick No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any informa- tion storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher.

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 89-39099

Printed in the United States ISBN: 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4)

Published in the United States of America by Noyes Publications Mill Road, Park Ridge, New Jersey 07656

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data (Revised for vol. 4)

Flick, Ernest, W. Cosmetic and toiletry formulations.

1. Cosmetics. 2. Toilet preparations. I. Title. TP983.F55 1989 668'.55 89-39099 ISBN 0-8155-1218-X (v. 1) ISBN 0-8155-1306-2 (v. 2) ISBN 0-8155-1367-4 (v. 3) ISBN 0-8155-1383-6 (v. 4)

Contents and Subject Index

SECTION I: ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS . . . . . . . . . . 1 Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiper . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Aerosol Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 OiWater Antiperspirant Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Antiperspirant Roll-On . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Oil-in-Water Antiperspirant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Antiperspirant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Deodorant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Deodorant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Dry Antiperspirant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Dry Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Talc Spray Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 General Purpose Stick Formulation-1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 General Purpose Stick Formulation-2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Stick Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Roll-On Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Spray Powder Antiperspirant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Deodorant Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Stick Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

SECTION 11: BABY PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Baby Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Baby Lotion Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Baby Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Baby Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Baby Foam Baths . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Tear Free Baby Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Baby Wipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

vii

viii Contents and Subject Index

Mild Children's Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

SECTION III: BATH AND SHOWER PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Aerosol Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Dispersible Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 BathGel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Bath Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Emollient Bath Gelee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Bath Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Washing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Foam Bath with Almond Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Foam Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Bubble Bath & Bath Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Bubble Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Clear Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 High Foaming Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Foam Baths, Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Foam Baths, Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Herbal Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Foam Bath, Transparent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Mild Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Clear, Mild to the Skin Shower Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Refreshing Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Shower Bath for Everyday Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Mild Foam Bath . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Shower Baths, Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Shower Baths, Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Shower Gel Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Bath Crystals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Silky Bath Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Water White Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Shower Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

SECTION IV: BEAUTY AIDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Aloe Vera Skin Freshener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Powder Mask Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 BlemisWScar Concealer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 Body Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Body Powder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Contents and Subject Index ix

Cheek Rouge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Concealing Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Cream Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Dry Powder Rouge Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Cream Facial Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Liquid Talc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Creamy Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Waterproof Eye Liner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Creamy Matte Make Up Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Creamy Roll-On Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Deep Extra Body Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Emollient Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Emulsion Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Eye Contour Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Eye Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 Eyeliner SticWencil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Face and Body Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Lip Care Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Face-Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Skin Tonic Water Without Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Sting Free Facial Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 Fluid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Compact Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Fluid Make Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Regenerating Lipcare-Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Aloe Vera Jelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Gentle Beauty Wash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 Hair Liquid (Soft Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 High Shine Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Lipstick Formulation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Lip Balm White . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Balm I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Balm I1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Lip Gloss (Souffle) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Roll-On Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Lip Pencil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

x Contents and Subject Index

New Look Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Lip-Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Lipstick, Glossy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Lipstick Formulae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Powder Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Liquid Make-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Silky Facial Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 Lotion Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Lotion Hand Scrub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Low Cost Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Makeup Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Eyebrow Pencil, Heat Stable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Moisture Stick Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Cream Rouge Formula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Pot Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Moisturizing Liposomal Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Skin Tightening Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Moisturizing Make-up Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Skin Cleanser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Moisturizing Milk with High Electrolyte Content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 W/O Hydrating Body Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Nail Polish Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Lip Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Oil-in-Water Milk Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 One Coat Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Overnight Facial Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Moisturizing Make-up Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 O/W Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 W/O Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 O/W Cleansing Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Dry Skin Oil with Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Petroleum OiWetroleum Wax Free Lipstick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

Contents and Subject Index xi

Pressed Powder Eyeshadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

Cosmetic Aerosol Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Pressed Powder with 3% Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Prolonged Skin Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Skin Lightening Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Three Layer Facial Moisturizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

100 Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101

Molded Eye Shadow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

Purifying Clay Face Mask . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Soothing Body Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Anhydrous Deep Penetrating Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Stick Type Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Thickening Mascara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Thigh Slimming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Ultra Rich Hand and Body Nourisher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Water Resistant Liquid Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Lip Gloss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108

SECTION V:CREAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 All Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 All Purpose Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Dry Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel . . . . . . . . . . 115 Aloe Vera Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Anti-Cellulite Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Antiwrinkle Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Daycream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Benzoyl Peroxide Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Day Cream O/W for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Mascara Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Facial Washing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Daily Facial Cream with W Protection (Om . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124

xii Contents and Subject Index

Day Cream. Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Moisturizing Cream. Slightly Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 Deep Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Apricot Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Stabilized Urea Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Emollient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Facial Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Non-Greasy Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Emollient Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131

European O N Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132

Facial Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Moisturizing Hand and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Facial Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135

General Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 General Purpose WatedOil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 General Purpose O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Acne Scrub Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Emollient Cream, WatedOil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 General Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 Water-in-Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 General Purpose Water/Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Mineral Oil Cream-W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 General Purpose W/O Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Oil-in-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 General Purpose W/O Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Oil-in-Water Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Gentle Night Repair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150

Glycolic Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Hand and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 High Content Mineral Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 O/W Petrolatum Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 Hydrocortisone Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 All Natural Cream (W/O Type) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 Hydrogen Peroxide Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 Hydroxy Acid Cream (W/O Emulsion) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Moisturizing Cream Cold Process W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Light Texture Hand Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158

Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131

Exfoliating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133

Age Spot Treatment Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135

Glossy Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151

Contents and Subject Index xiii

Facial Moisture Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Mixed Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 Multi-Functional Day Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 Multi-Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Versatile Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Night Cream (15% Aloe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 Aloe Bath Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162 OiWater Cold Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 O/W Cold Cream (Soap Free) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 O i w a t e r Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 OiWater Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 OiWater Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 W/O Night Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 OiWater Pigmented Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 O/W All-Purpose Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Oil-in-Water-in-Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Transparent Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 O/W Protective Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 Modified Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Hand Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 Moisturizer O/W Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171

Night Cream, Non-Greasy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 O/W Cream, with Bacteriostat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 Protective Face and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174

Protective Face and Body Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175

Neck Firming Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172

Eye Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174

Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 Rejuvenating Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 W/O Night Repair Cream "Cold Procedure" . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Silk Protein Skin Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 Moisturizing Cream with Tritosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177

Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 Silky Smooth Cream Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 SkinCream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Skin Care Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 Soft Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183

Silky-Smooth LotiodCream-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178

xiv Contents and Subject Index

Jojoba Oil Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 W/O Cream with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Cleansing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 90% Water Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 Soft and Silky Vanishing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187

SECTION VI: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 "Artic Mist" Spray Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Super Hard Hold Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Balsam Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Clear Conditioner with Wheat Germ Cationic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Clear Leave-On Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Birch Hair Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Invigorating Hair Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 Brushing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Hair Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 Clear Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Light Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Clear Gel Hairdressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 WatedOil Hair Dressing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 Clear 'N' Natural Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Cream of Wheat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Conditioner and Setting Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Foaming Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 Conditioner with Croquat HH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 High Performance Creme Rinse Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Cream Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Hair Relaxer Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 Cream Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Pearl Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Cream Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Permanent Wave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Deep Conditioning Treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Intensive Conditioner with Body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Ethnic Hair Care Clear Hair Rinse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Ethnic Hair Care Hair Dressings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203

Contents and Subject Index xv

Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gels Hair Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . 204

Conditioning Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens

Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel for Shine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel Moisturizing . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing'Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Ethnic Hair Care Hair Cuticle Coat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On MoisturizindOil-Sheens

Moisturizing Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-On Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens

Extra Sheen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Ethnic Hair GlossedConditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Ethnic Hair GlosserBxtra Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Ethnic air Care Extra Conditioning Coat Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Leave-On Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 Firm Hold Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 High Performance Styling Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Gel Curl Activator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Alcohol Free Styling Gel pH: 7.2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 Guanidine No Base Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Potassium Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 Hair Brushing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers and Quatemium-79

Hydrolyzed Animal Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 High Quality Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Hair Conditioning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Hair Conditioner with CAE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Hair Conditioning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Hair Conditioning Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Hair Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hair Tonic . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219 Hair Dressing W/O Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Hair Gloss to Control Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Hair Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Hair Relaxer4lycerine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Hair Relaxer-Glycol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Hair Sculpting Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224

mi Contents and Subject Index

Hair Straightener . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Conditioning Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 High Petrolatum Mousse Aerosol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 Hot Oil Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Hot Oil Super Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Soft Glossing Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Intensive Conditioning Pomade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Light Oil Free Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 Intensive Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Salon Strength Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 Leave-On Scalp and Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Light Oil Free Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Aloe Vera air Conditioner (Light) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Low Cost Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Extra Stable Relaxer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Medium Hold, 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 55% VOC Pump Hair Spray 233 Medium Strength Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Medium Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 "Leave-On" Conditioner Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Natural Lipid Conditioner for Professional Salon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Mild Opaque Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Mild Pearl Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 Pearly Lotion Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Protein Lotion Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Spray Leave-On Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Pump Gel Type Spritz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Pump Spray Hair Detangler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Hot Oil Treatment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Micro Emulsion Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Salon Type Hair Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Silicone Hair Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Shebu Hair Setting Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243 Stiff Holding Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Aerosol Shaping Hairspray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 StylingIConditioning Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Clear Gel Grooming Agent and Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245

Contents and Subject Index xvii

Hair Straightening Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Styling Mousse X22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic) Styling Mousse X22176-107 (Alcohol-Free) Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-057 (Pump) Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-058 (Aerosol) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Natural Lipid Styling Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Pump Type Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 High Humidity Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 80% VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 High Solids 80% VOC Hair Spray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247

SECTION W: LOTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 After Exercise Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Therapeutic Humectant Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Alcoholic Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257 Banana Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 O/W Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Behenyl Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 Velvet 44-Behenyl Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260

Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Moisturizing Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Deep Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 European O/W Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Water/Oil Cleansing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Protective Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270

Emollient Lotion O/W Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260

xviii Contents and Subject Index

Soft Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271 Hand and Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Jojoba Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 High Petrolatum Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Low Irritation Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Mineral Oil Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Isopropyl Myristate Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Vanishing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 Lanolin and Aloe Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 Glossy Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278 Low Solids Almond Lotion I1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Peach Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 Milk Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Mineral Oil Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Mineral Oil L o t i o n 4 / W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Mineral Oil Free Lotion Contains Ethanol (20%) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Pomade Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Neutralizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion

with Vitamins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 O/W Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 O/W Lotion with a-Hydroxy Acids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 O/W Lotion Cold/Cold Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 Oil-in-Water Body Care Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 OiWJater Foundation Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290 OiWater Emollient Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291 Perfumed Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Silk Protein Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Pearlescent Bath Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293 Skin Care Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 Skin Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Dry Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Skin Softening Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Skin Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296 Soft and Silky Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Low Cost Low Solids Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 Strawberry Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298

Contents and Subject Index xix

Apricot Hand Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Super Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 IRF Facial Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Facial Moisturizing Lotion (W/O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Ultra Moisturizing Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301 Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302

Body Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 W/O Lotion with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 Mild Lotion with Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304

W/O Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303

S E W O N VIII: SHAMPOOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 All Purpose Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Anti-Dandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Cleaning Shampoo Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 Anti-Dandruff Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Shampoos for Greasy Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Antidandruff Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Protein Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311 Balsam and Protein Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cleaning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314

Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 316 Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Everyday Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Gentle Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 Cream Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Highly Pearlescent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Emollient Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Moisturizing Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321 Shampoo Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321

Everyday Family Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323

312

Professional Salon Type Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 315

316

Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Clear . . . . . 322 Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo (Cold Process) Pearled . . . 322

xx Contents and Subject Index

Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Hair Shampoo. Dilutable Viscous Shampoo For Customer

(Dilution 1:4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 Viscous Consumer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 Transparent Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325

Hair Shampoo. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.6

Hair Shampoo. Clear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Hair Shampoos. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 327 Hair Shampoo with Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Hair Shampoo with Conditioner for Everyday Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Herbal Shampoo. Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 Silicone Free 2:l Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330 Light Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331 Low pH. Protein Gel Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Mild Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333 Economy Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333

Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335 Shampoo with Tritisol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335

Vitamin Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Shampoo for Dry Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 Salon Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 Salon Style Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 2 in 1 High Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 Shampoo for Permed Hair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Neutralizer Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 Sport Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Two in One Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341 Three in One Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Wheat and Sesame Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Detangling Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Wheat Germ Conditioning Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 No-Sting 2: 1 Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347

Lotion Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325

Hair Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326

Mild Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334

Protein Shampoos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336

Stripper Shampoo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347

Contents and Subject Index xxi

SECTION IX: SHAVING PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 Aerosol Shaving Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349 Nonionic Aerosol Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349 After Shave Balm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 Shave Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 After Shave Conditioner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 Alcohol Free After Shave Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352 Conditioning After Shave Toner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352 Brushless Shave Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 Emulsion for Shaving . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Soap Free-Nonionic Shaving Emu1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Hemostatic After Shave . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 Shaving Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 Shaving Creme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356 Shaving Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356 Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream for Sensitive Skin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357

SECTION X . SOAPS AND HAND CLEANERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 Economy Heavy-Duty and Cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 359 Emulsion Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand Cleaner Emulsion

Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 Waterless and Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361 Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453 . . . . . . . 362 Clear Gel d-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454 Hand Cleaning Paste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaning Cream. Free of Solvents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Hand Cleaners from Concentrate

Economy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Pearlescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Premium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364 Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 364

Glucopon and AS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Glucopon and LAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Glucopon and AES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365 Glucopon and AOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365

Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Liquid Hand Soap Formulations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 Lotion Hand Soap Requires No Heat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367

Industrial and Institutional Liquid Hand Soaps

xvii Contents and Subject Index

Cream Soap (Requires Heat) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 Liquid and Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 Liquid Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368 Liquid Synthetic Soaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 369 Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370 Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370 Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 Shower Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 "Medicated" Skin Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 372 Mild Lotion Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 Liquid Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 373 Premium Emollient Hand Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Water Free Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Waterless Hand Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 Waterless Hand Cleaner No . 390 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner No . 243 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378

SECTION XI: SUN CARE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 379 Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 Synergistic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 Solar Tanning Oil Mousse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 Aloe After Sun Lotion (40% Aloe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383 Aloe Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 Buffered Self Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 Cooling After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Suntan Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18) . . . . . . . . . . . . 387 European O/W Sun Protection Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388 O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388 Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (Approximate SPF 15) . . . . . . . . 390 O/W After Sun Milk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391 W/O After Sun Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 391 O N Cream (SPF 5) (UVA/UVB Ratio 0.91) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 W/O Sun Protection Cream (SPF 15+) (UVA/UVB Ratio 0.75) . . . 392

Contents and Subject Index xxiii

O/W Hydroalcoholic Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393 W/O Sunscreen (SPF 17) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 393

394 W/O Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 O/W Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 395 O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398 O N Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398 W/O Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 399 O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion

Indicative SPF 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400 Indicative SPF 25t . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401 Indicative SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402

Solar Tanning Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403 Solar Tanning Cream High Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404 Tanning Jelly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404 Solar Tanning Cream Super Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 Jojoba After Sun Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 Solar Tanning Lotion-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Solar Tanning Lotion-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Solar Tanning Lotion-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 Solar Tanning Lotion-D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 Solar Tanning Lotion High Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 Solar Tanning Lotion Super Protection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 Solar Tanning Oil-A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Solar Tanning Oil-B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Solar Tanning Oil-C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Solar Tanning Oil-D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 409 Solar Tanning Stick White Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Solar Tanning Stick Tan Color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 Sun Block Soft Cream ( O W ) Tested SPF 26 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 Sun Filter Foam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 After Sun Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 Sun Protection Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 413 Sunscreen with Amihope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with Elder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 Sunscreen Balm (Cold Processing) SPF 8 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . 416 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 W/O Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Sunscreen Cream Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 15t ) . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Skin Bronzing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 419 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 O/W Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420

O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

xriv Contents and Subject Index

Sun Screen Cream W/O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 421 Sun Screen Cream W/O. Oily . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Self Tanning Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 Sunscreen Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 423 Suntan Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424

425 425

Sunscreen Gel SPF 6 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 426 Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 427

Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 429 Sunscreen Lotion (o/w)

SPF 6 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 430 SPF 11 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431 SPF 4 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432

SPF 10 (DIN 67501) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434

waterproof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 435

Sunscreen Gel (approx . SPF 10) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sunscreen Gel (approx . SPF 12) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Sunscreen Lotion (approx . SPF 15) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428

SPF 18 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 433

Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) (cold processing) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC)

Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 30 (FDA-OTC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Tested SPF 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 437 Tested SPF 16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 438 SPF 6 (FDA-OTC). waterproof . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 439 Tested SPF 11 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440

Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 441 Tanning Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 Sun Screen Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 442 Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof Sunscreen SPF 12 (tested) . . . 443 Ultra Violet Absorbing Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444 Unbuffered Self Tanning Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 445 Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion (with 8% Titanium

Dioxide) SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446 WIO Sunscreen Lotion SPF 22 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 446 Waterproof Sunscreen

Gel vested SPF 30) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447 Spray Mist SPF 16 (Tested) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 447 W/O Emulsion SPF 22 (Static) SPF 21 (Waterproof) . . . . . . . . 448 W/O Emulsion SPF 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448

SPF3.5 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449 SPF3.7 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 449

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base

Contents and Subject Index xxv

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF21 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 SPF15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450

SPF17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451 With 8% Titanium Dioxide, SPF 12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451

Water Resistant Sunscreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 452 W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454 W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455 W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-18 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456 W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-17 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456

Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion

SECTION XII: MISCELLANEOUS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 457 Aloe Medicated Gel With Alcohol (SDA 39C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Aloe Medicated Gel Without Alcohol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458 Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459 Spearmint Mouthwash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 459 Clear Gel Without DEA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 Silicone Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 460 Clear Ringing Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461 Clear Gel Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 461 Cream Sachet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 Liquid Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 Solid Cologne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 High-Luster Toothpaste . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463 Denture Cleaner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 463 Hydrophilic O/W Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 Emollient Anhydrous Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 W/O Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 Washable Anhydrous Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 464 Jojoba Massage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465 Massage Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 465 Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 Modified Petrolatum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467 Washable Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 467 Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 Anhydrous Ointment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 468 O/W Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 469 Oil-in-Water-in-Silicone Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 Skin Growth Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470 Pharmaceutical Cream Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471

mi Contents and Subject Index

Pharmaceutical Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 471 Washable Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 472 Wound Healing Accelerator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474 Massage Gel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474 Petrolatum Stick . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 474 W/O Ointment Base . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 475

SECTION XLLI: TRADE-NAMED RAW MATERIALS . . . . . . . . . . 476

SECTION XIV:SUPPLIERS' ADDRESSES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 526

Section I Antiperspirants and

Deodorants

1

2 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick

I n s r e d i e n t s : A Dow Corn ing 345 f l u i d

Ar lamol ISML S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

% w/w 45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00

5.00

B *Fragrance

* q. s. t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s, 7 i n t and package i n a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y ai 11 l i q u i d (app. 72C) and

Formula CP 1085

Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiperspirant Stick

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Dow Corn ing 345 f l u i d

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

% w/w 45.00 25.00 25-00

5 .00

B *Fragrance

* q. s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (app. 72C) and

Formula CP 1086

Procedure:

mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .

Aluminum Chlorohydrate Antiper

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Dow Corn ing 344 f l u i d

Ar lamol ISML S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Reheis m i c r o d r y Castorwax, hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

% w/w 45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00 5.00

Procedure:

mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (app. 72C) and

Formula PC 8220

Antiperspirants and Deodorants 3

Antiperspirant

I n a r e d i e n t s : V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e , D . C . 344 f l u i d Ar lamol ISML S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e powder, M i c r o - d r y Castor wax

w 45.00 10.00 15.00 25.00

5 .00

Procedure:

and mix t h o r u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n a n t i p e r s p r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (app. 72C)

I n s r e d i e n t s : V o l a t i l e s i 1 Ar lamol ISML

Antiperspirant

cone, D.C. 344 f l u i d u

48.50 10.00

A1 Z r T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x - g l y , Rezal 36 GP, super u l t r a f i ne 20.00

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 16.00 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 5 .00 Fragrance, Sp icy l i m e #4851-AN, I F F 0 .50

Procedure:

mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o j u s t above s e t p o i n t and package i n a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k c o n t a i n e r s .

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t i l l t h e y a r e a l l l i q u i d (app. 72C) and

Aerosol Antiperspirant

I n s r e d i e n t s : A Quaternium-18 h e c t o r i t e g e l

Ar lamol E Cyclomethicone, V o l a t i l e s i l i c o n e 7207 A r l a c e l 80

u 8.00 3.00 3.00 0.50

B Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e , Macrospher ica l 95 6.00

C Hydrocarbon p r o p e l l a n t , p r o p e l l a n t A-46 79.50

Procedure: Mix ( A ) t h o r o u g h l y w i t h medium sheer equipment. Add ( B ) a t

a s low s teady r a t e and mix t h o r o u g h l y . F i l l , vacuum c r imp and charge ae roso l u n i t s w i t h ( C ) .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

4 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Perspirant Cream

I n s r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g.m.s.

C e t y l a l c o h o l B Water, d e i o n i zed

Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e complex, 50% s o l u t i o n

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t . Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h

Anti-Perspirant Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165

Spermacet i B G l y c e r o l

Water, d e i o n i zed C T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e D Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e complex E *Perfume

* q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .

5.00 5.00

50.00 40.00

18.00 5.00 5.00

5 3 . 0 0 1 - 0 0

18.00

Procedure: Heat (A) and (6) t o 80C. and add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

S t i r f o r 15 minu tes and add (C) s l o w l y , c o n t i n u e t o a g i t a t e and c o o l t o 40C. Add ( D ) and c o n t i n u e t o a g i t a t e u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogenous. Add ( E ) and s t i r .

Oil/Water Antiperspirant Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed

Beeswax M i n e r a l o i l A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60

B Water, d e i o n i zed C Aluminum C h l o r h y d r a t e , 50% s o l

*Perfume

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

14.00 2.00 1 .oo 5.00 5.00

33 .00 40.00

Procedure:

w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Mix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40 deg. C . Add (C) and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i 1 c o o l .

Heat (A) t o 85 deg. C and ( 6 ) t o 85 deg. C . Add (6) t o ( A )

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Antiperspirants and Deodorants 5

Antiperspirant Roll-On

I n n r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

Ar lamol ISML B r i j 721 B r i j 72

B Water

C A1 umi num Z i r c o n i um T e t r a Chlorohydrex-GLY

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Fragrance

* q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

(50% aqueous s o l u t i o n )

96 w/w 3.00 4.00 1 . 5 0 2 .50

49 I 00

40.00

Procedure:

t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t about 50C and ( D ) a t about 45C. Add water a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( 6 ) t o 65C. Add (8) t o (A) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r

Package. Formula AD-3

Roll-On Antiperspirant

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol ISML

Ar lamol E B r i j 721 B r i j 72

B Water, d e i o n i z e d

C Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e (50% s o l u t i o n ) , Wickenol 303

D Germaben I1

* q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

% w/w 3.00 3 . 0 0 1 .50 2.50

49.00

40 .00

1 .oo

Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( 6 ) t o 6%. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) u s i n g p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t about 50C and ( D ) a t about 45C. Add water a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o evaporat i on. Package . SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions

6 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Antiperspirant Stick

Ingredients: %W/WA Brij 721 2.30

Arlamol E 11.50Isopropyl myristate & stearalkoniurn hectorite 5.70Ozokerite wax 22.40Myristyl alcohol 17.20

B Aluminum-Zirconium trichlorohydrate 23.00

C Cyclomethicone 17.90

*q.s. these ingredients.

Procedure:Heat (A) to 65 deg. C and (B) to 68 deg. C. Add (B) to (A)

with agitation and immediately add (C). Stir to 50 deg. C andpour into molds.

Oil-In-Water Antiperspirant Lotion

Ingredients: %W/WA Cetyl alcohol 0.50

Arlamol E 3.00Brij 72 2.00Brij 721 1.00

B Water 58.50*Preservative

C Aluminum chlorhydroxide, 50% aqueous solution 35.00

*q.s. these ingredients.

Procedure:Heat (A) to 85 deg. C and (B) to 85 deg. C. Add (B) to (A)

while stirring. Mix while cooling to 40 deg. C. Add (C) andcontinue mixing until cool.

Formula AD-5

Anti-Perspirant Lotion

Ingredients: %W/WA Arlacel 165, acid stable g.m.s. 15.00

Water, deionized 45.00

B Alumunum chlorhydroxide complex, 50% solution 40.00

Procedure:Heat (A) to 7OC. Heat (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) with rapid

agitation. Cool to room temperature with stirring.SOURCE: ICI Surfactants: Suggested Formulations

Antiperspirants and Deodorants 7

Deodorant

A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s S o f t i s a n 645 Hostaphat KL 340 N C e t y l a l c o h o l Raluben TL A1 umi num a c e t a t e

B. Ka r ion F H o s t a c e r i n g e l 1%* Benzyl a l c o h o l Water

Wt% 6 . 0 5 . 0 5 . 0 2.0 0 . 5 0 . 5

5 . 0 12.0

1 . o t o 100.0

C. Perfume qs

Prepara t i on :

b rough t t o t h e same tempera ture and added s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g . C . i s added a t approx. 30C.

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e heated t o 75-BOC. Those o f B . a r e

*P repara t i on o f t h e Hos tace r in g e l : H o s t a c e r i n PN 73 1 .0% Water t o 100.0%

The H o s t a c e r i n i s mixed w i t h water u n t i l homogeneous and t h e m i x t u r e s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e g e l i s c l e a r .

A . M i g l y o l 812 Dynasan 114 Dynasan 110 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s Beeswax

B. Perfume Ac t i ve i ng r ed i e n t

@ 3 0 . 0 20 .0 18 .5 1o;o 2 0 . 0

P r e p a r a t i on : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e me l ted a t 75C and a t about 40C

perfume i s added, t h e mix i s homogenised and c a s t i n t o moulds.

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

Deodorant Stick

Joe Sulton

8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

M a t e r i a l s : 1 . Cyclomethicone 2 . S t e a r y l A l coho l 3 . A r l a c e l 165 4. T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 3328 5 . Bentone Gel VS-5 Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e 6 . Aluminum Ch lo rohyd ra te (M ic ron ized ) 7 . T a l c 8 . Fragrance

% bv Weight 39.7 22 .0

2 . 0 0 . 2

10 .0 2 5 . 0

1 . o 0 . 1

Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s A . Heat t h e Cyclomethicone t o 65C. B . W i th s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y add i n g r e d i e n t 2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e temp-

e r a t u r e a t 65C t h r u s t e p E. C . When a l l o f i n g r e d i e n t 2 i s me l ted , add i n g r e d i e n t s 3 and

4 . Mix f o r 15 m inu tes . D . Add Bentone Gel VS-5 Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e and mix f o r 30

m inu tes . E . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 6 and 7 , m ix f o r 30 m inu tes . F. A l l o w t h e ba tch t o coo l t o 55C, add Fragrance, mix f o r 5

minutes and pour i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s . Formula TS-289

M a t e r i a l s : 1 . Bentone Gel VS-5 Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e 2 . Cyclomethicone 3 . SDA A lcoho l 40 4 . I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 5. Aluminum Ch lo rohyd ra te 6 . Fragrance

% bv Wei q h t 15 .0 54.0

3 . 0 2 . 0

25.0 1 . o

Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : A . Combine t h e Bentone Gel VS-5 w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s 2 and 3 u s i n g

B . Add i n g r e d i e n t 4 , t h e n i n g r e d i e n t 5 , w i t h cons tan t a g i t a t i o n .

C . Add i n g r e d i e n t 6 . Formula TS-288

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c , : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Mix u n t i l t h e powder i s u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d .

Dry Antiperspirant Stick

Quick Drying Roll-On Antiperspirant

Joe Sulton
Joe Sulton

Antiperspirants and Deodorants 9

Dry Roll-On Antiperspirant

M a t e r i a l s : 1 . Bentone Gel I P M r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 2 . SDA 40 3. I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 4 . Cyc lometh icone 5 . A1 umi num Ch lo rohyd ra te 6 . Fragrance

% by Weiqht 15 .0

3 . 0 2 . 0

54 .0 25.0

1 . o

Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e Bentone Gel IPM a d d i t i v e w i t h i n g r e d i e n t s 2 , 3

and o n e - h a l f o f i n g r e d i e n t 4 i n a m i x i n g k e t t l e . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t h e rema in ing p o r t i o n o f i n g r e d i e n t 4, c o n t i n u e m i x i ng .

i s u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t 5 w i t h a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g until t h e powder

3 . Add t h e f rag rance , m ix , f i l l u n i t s . Formula TS-237

Talc Spray Antiperspirant

M a t e r i a1 s : 1 . Bentone Gel IPM r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 2 . SDA 40 3 . I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e 4 . Cyclometh icone 5 . Aluminum Ch lo rohyd ra te 6 . T a l c 7 . Fragrance 8 . P r o p e l l a n t A-46

% by Wei q h t 8 . 0 2 . 0 1 . 5 5 . 0 6 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 5

75.00

Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1 th rough 4 and t h o r o u g h l y mix u s i n g

2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 5 and 6 a t a s low r a t e and mix i n t h o r o u g h l y . 3 , Add f r a g r a n c e and m i x . 4. F i l l , vacuum c r i m p and gas ae roso l u n i t s . Formula TS-245

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

medium shear equipment.

IO Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose Stick Formulation-1

I n g r e d i e n t s ; A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A l coho l * O z o k e r i t e (170D)** M i n e r a l O i l ( 7 0 s s ) * * * Span 60

Cloud P o i n t , C : 80

General Purpose Stick Formulation-2

I n a r e d i e n t s : A-C Po lye thye lene 617A A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l c o h o l * O z o k e r i t e (170D)** M i n e r a l O i l (70 s s ) * * * Span 60

Cloud P o i n t , C : 76

wt% 8

16 16 55

5

E% 7

14 14 60

5

Procedure:

p o i n t u n t i l s o l u t i o n t u r n s c l e a r . Around 60-70C, add perfume, aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Deaerate and package.

Manu fac tu re rs :

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n 2-5C above i t s c l o u d

* Malmstrom Chemical, A c e t o l , o r Amerchol, Ace tu lan ** Ross Wax o r e q u i v a l e n t *** W i t c o Chemical , Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 , o r equi Val en t

Stick Antiperspirant

I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . A-C 400 2 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 3 . Dow Corn ing S i 1 i c o n e 344 4. S t e a r y l A l coho l 5 . A1 umi num Chl o rohyd ra te 6 . Perfume

Par t s , W t . 15 50 15 20 15

Q.S

Procedure:

S t i r u n t i l wax b l e n d i s u n i f o r m . Add 5 and s t i r i n . Cool m i x t u r e down t o 55C and add Perfume.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Weigh 1-4 and heat u n t i l A-C 400 has d i s s o l v e d o r me l ted .

Antiperspirants and Deodorants 11

Roll-On Antiperspirant

T h i s low v i s c o s i t y emuls ion i s s t a b i l i z e d w i t h Veegum HV which a l s o p r o v i d e s moderate t h i c k e n i n g and e x c e l l e n t , d r y a f t e r - f e e l . The Aluminum/Zirconium Complex has h i g h e r a n t i - p e r s p i r a n t e f f i c a c y than a1 umi num c h l o r o h y d r a t e .

I n a r e d i e n t : A Veegum HV, Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e

Dei on i zed Water

% bv W t . 1 . o o

29.00

B G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-I00 S t e a r a t e ( 2 ) 8 . 0 0

C Aluminum Z i r con ium Te t rach lo rohyd rex GLY, 30% S o l n . ( 3 ) 3 3 . 0 0 Aluminum C h l o r i d e , 32 Baume So ln . 5 . 5 0 Aluminum Ch lo rhyd ra te , 50% So ln . ( 4 ) 1 6 . 5 0

D Cyclomethicone ( 5 ) 7 .00

E Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .

( 2 ) A r l a c e l 165 ( 3 ) Rezal 36G ( 4 ) C h l o r h y d r o l , 50% S o l u t i o n ( 5 ) Rhodors i l 700 45V2

P r e p a r a t i o n :

shear u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and comp le te l y f r e e o f und ispersed p a r t i c l e s . I n another c o n t a i n e r , heat B t o 75C. Heat C t o 55C i n a t h i r d c o n t a i n e r . Add B t o A w i t h s low m i x i n g and coo l t o 50C. Add C t o A&B. Mix a t s low speed u n t i l t h e tempera ture reaches 2%. Add D and homogenize f o r 5 m inu tes . A d d E . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m and package.

Cons is tency :

800 cps .

Suggested Packaging: Rol l -On Con ta ine rs

Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s des igned t o se rve as a gu ide f o r

t h e development o f new p roduc ts o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Formula No. 443

Add Veegum HV t o water a t 75C and m ix w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e

V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days a t room tempera ture i s 600-

I2 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Roll-On Antiperspirant

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

B r i j 721 B r i j 72

A1 1 a n t i on B Water, d e i o n i z e d

C Aluminum Z i rcon ium T e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x Gly , Wickenol 386

D *Perfume and P r e s e r v a t i v e

*q . s I t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

4 . 0 0 0.75 3.25

34.55 0.20

57.25

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (5) t o 65C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) u s i n g prop-

e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t about 50C and (0) a t about 45C. Add water a t 35C t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package,

Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Cyc lometh icone

B r i j 72 B r i j 721

B Water, de4 o n i zed C Aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e , 50% aqueous s o l u t i o n D *Perfume

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%m 1 0 . 0 0 2.00 0 .70

52.30 35.00

Procedure:

Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y add t h e remainder o f i n g r e d i e n t s ,

Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (B) to 72C. Add (B) to (A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

Clear Roll-On A.P. Lotion

I n u r e d i e n t s : A E t h y l a l c o h o l

B Ar lamol E Hydroxypropyl c e l l u lose , K1 u c e l GF

C Aluminum chlorhydroxide-propylene g l y c o l complex 20

Procedure: Mix ( A ) t h o r o u g h l y u s i n g h i g h shear i f necessary. Add A r

E and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous. Add (C) and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

%m 69.00

1 .oo 10 00

00

amo 1

Antiperspirants and Deodorants 13

Spray Powder Anti-Perspirant

I n q r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) E thano l (SD 40) ( 2 ) Bentone Gel I P M (3 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( 4 ) Cyclomethicone ( 5 ) Aluminum Ch lo rohyd ra te ( 6 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 7 ) Fragrance ( 8 ) Propel l a n t A46

% by Weight 2 . 0 8 . 0 1 .5 5 .0 6 . 0 2 . 0 0 .5

7 5 . 0

Procedure:

minu tes . A t h i g h speed, add ( 3 ) , ( 4 ) , ( 6 ) , and ( 7 ) . M ix w i t h ( 8 ) and f i l l .

each p roduc t used.

f lammable i n g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Add (1 ) t o ( 2 ) and mix f o r 5 m inu tes . Add ( 5 ) and mix f o r 5

Fo l l ow recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g

Deodorant Stick

S t e a r i c A c i d E thano l Propy l ene G1 y c o l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Phosphol i p i d PTC Sodi um Hydrox i de 50%

% bv Weight 8 . 0 0

74.13 10.00

5 . 0 0 0.50 2 .37

Procedure:

and a g i t a t e t o 65-70C, t h e n s l o w l y n e u t r a l i z e t h e s t e a r i c a c i d w i t h t h e sodium hyd rox ide 50% and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Cool s l i g h t l y t o 70C. Add f r a g r a n c e and c o l o r , and package.

P r o p e r t i es :

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , Inc. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

B lend i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r except t h e sodium hyd rox ide . Heat

Phys i ca l Appearance: T rans lucen t S o l i d

14 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Stick Formulation

1 . A-C Copolymer 400 15 2 . I s o p r o p y l - Myr i s t a t e 50 3 . Dow 344 F l u i d 15 4 . S t e a r y l A l coho l 20 Procedure:

Weigh a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and hea t w i t h a g i t a t i o n . The c l o u d p o i n t o f t h i s b l e n d i s 72C. Above t h e c l o u d , t h e p o l y e t h y l e n e w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b lend . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n i s much f a s t e r . Care must be taken, however, n o t t o v o l a t i l i z e t h e Dow 344 F l u i d . When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e d i s s o l v e d , add 15% aluminum c h l o r h y d r a t e and q u i c k c o o l , w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t o 45C. Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r and a l l o w t o coo l f u r t h e r . Ref : 5189-12-2

Stick Formulation

A-C 400 2-Ethy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e D o w Corn ing C344 C e t y l A1 coho1 Span 65

Stick Formulation

A-C 400 2-Ethy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e Myr i s t y l M y r i s t a t e D o w Corn ing C344 G l y c e r o l Mono S t e a r a t e C e t y l A l coho l Span 65

R762D I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Dow Corn ing 344 S t e a r y l A l coho l ( A l f o l

Procedure:

Stick Formulation

18)

W B 20 43 18 16

2 .5 0 . 5

W* 20 40 18 16

3 2 .5 0 . 5

W B 15 45 15 25

The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mixed and heated u n t i l t hey fo rm a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . Cloud p o i n t o f t h i s s t i c k i s 76C. I t can be poured a t 65C. A n t i p e r s p i r a n t S t i c k :

aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e ( p a r t i c l e s i z e 12) and mix i n h o t . Perfume i s added j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i n g . Deodorant S t i c k :

1% j u s t p r i o r t o p o u r i n g . SOURCE: A1 1 i ed S i gna l Inc . : Suggested Formul a t i ons

For a n t i p e r s p i r a n t s t i c k t o t h i s base f o r m u l a t i o n add 25%

For deodorant s t i c k t o t h i s base f o r m u l a t i o n , add deodorant

15

Section II

Baby Products

16 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Bath

A. M a r l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Ampholyt JB 130 Mar lamid M 1218 Water

B. Camomile Spec ia l Avocado S p e c i a l Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Magnesium s u l p h a t e x 7H20

%

20 .0 1 2 . 0

2 . 0 t o 100.0

0 . 5 1 . o

qs qs qs

22 .o

P r e p a r a t i o n : The components under A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence,

warmed and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The components i n B . a r e added t o A. a t approx. 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

Baby Bath

Mar l i n a t 242/28 Ampholyt JB 130 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 D i o n i l O C / K L i me B1 ossom Speci a1 Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

% 21 .o 1 7 . 0 8 . 0 3 .0 0 . 5 0 . 5

qs qs qs

t o 100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet ics:

The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Baby Products 17

Baby Lotion Mousse

Phase A : I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS Pol awax Crodacol S-95 Crodamol PMP Crodamol PTC Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m Dimeth icone 35 c s ( 2 0 0 f l )

Phase 6 : Water, d e i o n i z e d G1 y c e r i ne Germaben I 1

% ( W / W ) 1 .17 1 . o o 0 .33 1 .OO 0 .67 1 - 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 5 0

83.33 8 .00 1 . o o

Procedure:

S l o w l y add "B" t o " A " w i t h m i x i n g . Coo l . F i l l i n t o ae roso l c o n t a i n e r s and add p r o p e l l a n t (pH 5 . 7 ) .

Combine " A " and hea t t o 75C. Combine "5" and hea t t o 75C.

F i l l r a t i o : Concen t ra te 95%, P r o p e l l a n t A31 5%.

Baby Oil

I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . C a r n a t i o n , L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1 NF 2 . R i t a l a n 3 . R i t a c e t y l 4 . Propy lparaben 5 . Perfume

w Q S I O O . 00

5 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 0 . 1 0 QS

M a n u f a c t u r i n g Procedure: Weigh and add a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a c o n t a i n e r and b e g i n

s t i r r i n g w h i l e warming, u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s which a r e s o l i d s a t ambient temperatures have me l ted ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 55C). S t i r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous and b e g i n c o o l i n g . S t i r c o n t i n u o u s l y , a l l o w t o remain u n d i s t u r b e d f o r 2 4 hours , and f i l t e r .

Baby Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . Carna t ion , L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1 NF 2 . R i t a l a n " C " 3 . Perfume 4 . Propylparaben

w Q S l O O . 00

1 . o o OS

0 .10

Manu fac tu r ing Procedure:

3 and 4 and mix u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n o c c u r s . F i l t e r , i f necessary, and package f i l l i n t o s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r s . SOURCE: Wi t co Corp . : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: SuggeOted

Weigh and add #1 i n t o a c o n t a i n e r and b e g i n s t i r r i n g . Add #2,

Fo rmu la t i ons

18 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Shampoo

T h i s baby shampoo f e a t u r e s Crovol A-70 and C r o s u l t a i n e C-50, n a t u r a l d e r i v e d s u r f a c t a n t s wh ich g i v e t h i s fo rmu la i t s m i ldness . Us ing a f r a g r a n c e w i t h a "baby - f resh f f sme l l adds t o i t s appeal .

I n q r e d i e n t s : % P a r t A : SLES ( 3 mole) 2 0 . 0 C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) 1 2 . 0 De ion ized Water 51.3

P a r t B: Crovol A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e s ) 15.0 C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 0 . 5

P a r t C: Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l

Paraben (and) P ropy l Paraben** 1 . o F l o r a s y n t h A65697 (Powder Type) 0 . 2

Procedure: Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Combine t h e

i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 65C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d - u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH i f needed w i t h a 10% HC1 aqueous s o l u t i on. Cool w i t h m i x i ng t o des i r e d f i 11 tempera ture .

pH: 7.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 5,OOOcps+-lO% (@25C) **Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved *The use o f C r o t h i x i n cosmet ic and o t h e r f o r m u l a t i o n s i s

covered under U.S. Pa ten t # 5 , 1 9 2 , 4 6 2 .

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Fo rmu la t l on SH-86

Baby Shampoo

Mackadet BSC (Baby Shampoo Concent ra te ) Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) C i t r i c A c i d t o pH = 6 .5 -7 .0 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 2000 cps Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o

Wei a h t ,% 20 .0

q . s .

100.0

Procedure: 1. Add Macks ta t BSC to water and heat t o 40 degrees C. 2 . Add Macks ta t DM. 3. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 4. Add dye, f r a g r a n c e and c o o l t o room tempera ture .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Baby Products 19

Baby Shampoo

A . M a r l i n a t CM 105 Mar l i n a t 243/28 Amphol y t JA 140 Glucamate DOE 120 Water

0 . Lime-blossom Spec ia l Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

Wt% 5 5 . 0 14.0

7 . 0 qs

t o 100 .0

P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s of A . a r e b rough t t o g e t h e r i n sequence and

s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e added t o A . a t approx. 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .6 .

Baby Shampoo

Mar l i n a t 242/28 Amphol yt JA 140 Ampholyt J B 130 S o f t i g e n 767 Lamepon S Camomi 1 e Speci a1 L i me-bl ossom Speci a1 P r e s e r v a t i v e A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water

Wt% 29 .0

7 . 5 10 .0

3 .0 5 . 0 1 . o 1 . o qs q s

t o 100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5.

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

20 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Baby Shampoo

I n q r e d i e n t s : A Tween 20

Cocoamphodiacetate Sodi um l a u r y l s u l f a t e Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e PEG-1 50 d i s t e a r a t e Propy lene g l y c o l Water

B * C i t r i c a c i d

*q . s . these i ngred i e n t s

%w/w 6 . 0 0 6 . 0 0 3.00 3 .00 4 . 0 0 3 .00

7 5 . 0 0

Procedure:

A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 t o 5 . 5 w i t h ( B ) . M ix (A) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and hea t u n t i l homogeneous.

Baby Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s : A G-4280

Sodi urn t r i deceth s u l f a t e Laurarnphodi a c e t a t e Cocamidopropyl hydroxysu l t a i ne Sodi urn 1 aure th-13 ca rboxy l a t e Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e

B PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e

C * C i t r i c a c i d

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w 2 0 . 0 0 1 2 . 0 0

5 . 0 0 2.50 2 . 0 0

5 3 . 5 0

5.00

Procedure:

Heat t o around 60C and add ( B ) and c o n t i n u i n g s t i r r i n g . When c l e a r , c o o l and a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 8 w i t h ( C ) .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

M ix ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and hea t u n t i l homogeneous.

Baby Products 21

Baby Shampoos

B 42/6: Ze teso l MS Amphotensid GB 2009 Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

0 42/7: Ze teso l MS Zeteso l 2056 Pur ton CFD Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

Baby Foam Baths

B 70/139: Ze teso l MS Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

25.0% 9 .0% 2.0%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

27.0% 7.0% 2 .0% 0 .3% 2.0%

9 , s . t o make 100.0%

43.0% 1 .O%

9 , s . to make 100.0%

B 70/129: E x t r a k t 52 24.0% Pur ton SFD 1.0% H e r b a l i q u i d K a m i l l e Spez ia l 5 .0% Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%

Adjustment t o approx. pH 7 by l a c t i c a c i d o r c i t r i c a c i d

0 70/101 : Amphotensid 9 M 40 I 0% S e t a c i n 103 Spez ia l 20 0 0% Pur ton CFD 2.0% M u l s i f a n RT 203/80 3.0% Oxypon 2145 1.0% Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e q : s . t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimmmer & Schwarz GmbH & C o . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Adjustment t o pH 6 .5-7 .0 by l a c t i c o r c i t r i c a c i d

22 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Tear Free Baby Bath

Wei a h t ,% Mackam 2C (Cocoamvhodiacetate) 35 .0 Mackol 70NS (Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e ) 5.5 Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl Be ta ine ) 6 .0 Mackanate DC-30 (D isod ium Dimethicone Copo lyo l

Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 4 .0 Mackam CET ( C e t y l Be ta ine ) 1 . 5 Paragon (DMDM Hydanto in (and) Methy l Paraben) 0 . 7 C i t r i c A c i d 9,s. t o pH 5.0-5.5 Water q . s . t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . B lend components and heat t o 50C. 2 . When p roduc t i s c l e a r a d j u s t pH t o 5 .0 -5 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d

pH: 5 .3 V i s c o s i t y (cps, 25C): 500 cps Formula BN-l27C

Baby Wipes

Propy lene G1 y c o l Mackam 2C (Cocoamphodiacetate) Paragon (DMDM Hydanto in (and) Methy l Paraben) C i t r i c A c i d q . s . t o F h g r a n c e Water q . s . t o Procedure: 1 . B lend components u n t i l c l e a r . 2. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

m i l d t o s k i n and eyes. T h i s s o l u t i o n i s combined w i t h baby wipe t i s s u e s . I t i s v e r y

Mild Children's Bubble Bath

Mackanate EL (Disodium Laure th S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackanate CP (Di sod i um Cocami do M I P A Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (30%) Na t roso l 250HHR Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o Procedure: 1 . D ispe rse N a t r o s o l 250HHR i n c o l d wa te r . 2. B lend u n t i l comp le te l y d i spes rsed . 3 . Heat t o 40 degrees C . and add rema in ing components. 4. B lend u n t i l c l e a r . 5 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

Wei a h t ,% 4 .0 2.0 q . s .

pH=6.0 q . s .

100.0

Wei ah t ,% 10.0 10.0 9 . 0 1 .o qs

100.0

Section IIIBath and Shower Products

23

24 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aerosol Bath Oil

I n s r e d i e n t s : A O l e y l a l c o h o l

A t l a s G-1795 A l c o h o l , SDA No. 40 Perfume

w 15.00 1 .oo

52.00 2.00

B Propel 1 a n t 12/114 (57/43) 30.00

Procedure:

Cool t o 70C and add ( C ) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and pour w h i l e s t i l l f l u i d .

Heat ( A ) and (B) t o 9OC. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .

Dispersible Bath Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s : M i n e r a l o i 1, 81 andol A c t i v e #4 B r i j 93 Foam s t a b i l i z e r , N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a Perfume

6 0 . 0 0 20.00 13.00

2.00 5 . 0 0

Procedure:

F i 1 t e r i f necessary. M i x a l l i n g r e d i e n t s . Use s l i g h t heat i f necessary and s t i r .

Bath Gel

I n n r e d i e n t s :

NaCl G-9600

*Co lor Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Mix w e l l a t room tempera ture . Procedure:

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

w 35.00

0.80

0.20 0 .10

63.90

Bath and Shower Products 25

Bath Gelee with Natural Lipid Protein

Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide CS (Cocamide DEA)

Wei a h t .% 20.0 20.0

Mackanate CP (Disodium Cocamido M I P A Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 2 0 . 0 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 4 . 0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide CS t o sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e and b l e n d . 2 . Add rema in ing components and heat t o 45 degrees C . 3 . Blend u n t i l homogenous and a d j u s t pH t o 6 .5 -7 .0 w i t h

c i t r i c a c i d . 4 . Cool and f i l l .

Bath Gelee

Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA) Mackanate EL ( D i sodi um Laure th Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) L a c t i c A c i d t o pH = 6 . 0 - 6 . 5 Macksta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Dye, Fragrance, qs t o

Procedure: 1 . Add components i n o r d e r and heat t o 45 degrees C . 2 . 61 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . A d j u s t pH w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 4 . Add f rag rance and coo l t o room tempera ture .

Emollient Bath Gelee

Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (60%) Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA)

Weiqht ,% 34.6 20.0 4 5 . 0

qs 100.0

Wei a h t .% 20 .0 20.0

Mackanate EL ( D i sodi um Laure th Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20 .0 Mackanate WGD (Disodium Wheatgermamido PEG-2

Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 1 0 . 0 Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add Mackamide LLM t o sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e . 2. Add t h e rema in ing components and heat t o 45 degrees C . 3 . 81 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 - 7 . 0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

26 Cosmetic and To i l e0 Formulations

Bath Milk

A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 Mar lophor T10 Na S a l t

6 . G l y c e r o l Water

C . Ex t rapon Hamamelis Spec. Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

5 . 0 1 5 . 0 1 0 . 0

8 . 0

3 . 0 t o 1 0 0 . 0

1 . o qs qs

P r e p a r a t i o n :

heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s added a t 30C.

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 75-8OC. 6 . i s

Washing Lotion

Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 D i o n i l OC/K Marlamid PG 20 Perfume Co lour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water

%

6 . 0 3.0 3.0

qs qs qs qs

t o 100.0

22 .o

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .

SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:

The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Bath and Shower Products 27

Bath Oil, De Luxe with Plant Oils

A . M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 S o f t i g e n 767 S o f t i s a n 645 Soya bean o i l Hostaphat KL 340 N Co lour A n t i o x i d a n t s Perfume

V i s c o s i t y : ve ry l ow-v i scous

% 15.6 15.0 10.0 10.0 37.0 13.0

qs q s qs

P r e p a r a t i o n :

tempera ture u n t i l homogeneous. A l l t h e components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and s t i r r e d a t room

Foam Bath with Almond Oil

A . Marlowet OA 4/1 I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e Almond o i l

G l y c e r o l DAB 9 Mar lamid DF 1218 Water

C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

B . M a r l i n a t 242/70

% 30.6 2 2 . 0 8.0 25.0 1 0 , o 3.0

t o 100.0 qs as

P r e p a r a t i on :

Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 30C. Heat A . and B. t o 70-75C. Add B . s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g .

Foam Bath Oil

A . Mar lowet R 11/K P i ne-need1 e o i 1

B. M a r l i n a t 242/70 L i p o x o l 600 MED Water

C. P r e s e r v a t i v e

s/, 30.0 30.0 1 1 . o 13.0

t o 100.0 qs

P r e p a r a t i o n :

Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 30C.

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:

Heat A . and B . t o 70-75C. Add B. s l o w l y t o A . w i t h s t i r r i n g .

Suggeted Fo rmu la t i ons

28 Cosmetic and Toileoy Formulations

Bubble Bath & Bath Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Fragrance 2991 H, I F F I n c .

Tween 20 Foaming agent , Lanthanol LAL

w 4.40

22.20 10.00

B Water, d e i o n i zed 62.20

C Foam s t a b i l i z e r , N i n o l AA-62 E x t r a P r e s e r v a t i v e

1 - 0 0 0.20

Procedure: Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) w i t h s t i r r i n g

w i t h s l i g h t h e a t t o f a c i l i t a t e s o l u t i o n when necessary. A d j u s t t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t t o a pH o f l e s s t h a n 7.0 w i t h an a c i d such as c i t r i c . F i l t e r i f necessary.

Bubble Bath

I n s r e d i e n t s :

NaCl S u l f o s u c c i n a t e Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e *Co lor Water

G-9600 w

20.00 0.90 7.00 0 . 2 0 0.10

71.80

*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Mix w e l l a t room tempera ture . Procedure:

Bubble Bath

I n s r e d i e n t s : w A T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e l a u r y l s u l f a t e , Maprpfox TLS-500 20 IO0

Coconut f a t t y a c i d d ie thano lamide, Super Amide L-9 7.50

B Perfume 5.00

C Water, d e i o n i z e d Propylene g l y c o l

57.50 5.00

Procedure:

u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add (C) and s t i r .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Warm (A) and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Cool and add perfume, s t i r r i n g

Bath and Shower Products 29

Clear Gel T h i s c l e a r g e l i s a c l a s s i c f o r m u l a t h a t i s based on Volpo

and Crodafos s u r f a c t a n t s . It e x h i b i t s t h e " r i n g i n g g e l " phenom- enon, c h a r a c t e r i s t i c o f meny c l e a r m ic roemu ls ions . T h i s e f f e c t i s achieved by a system o f w a t e r , o i l and s u r f a c t a n t f o r m u l a t e d i n a r a t i o t h a t forms a r i g i d m i c e l l e s t r u c t u r e . The Volpos and Crodafoses a r e used as c o - e m u l s i f i e r s . (Fo r l a b o r a t o r y p repara - t i o n , a minimum b a t c h s i z e o f 400 grams i s recommended because t h e y c o o l s lower , a l l o w i n g more t i m e b e f o r e t h e s e t p o i n t t empera tu re i s reached) . I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Dei o n i zed wa te r 54 .0 Propylene G l y c o l 1 2 . 0 P a r t B: Crodafos N3 N e u t r a l (DEA O le th -3 Phosphate) 2 . 0 Crodafos N10 N e u t r a l (DEA Oleth-10 Phosphate) 4 . 0 Volpo 5 ( O l e t h - 5 ) 4 . 0 Volpo 3 (O le th -3 ) 7 . 0 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 17 .0 Procedure:

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 90-95C. Add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l temp- e r a t u r e (above s e t p o i n t ) . Set p o i n t a p p r o x i m a t e l y 85C.

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 90-95C.

N.A.T.C. Approved Formula CG-8R

T h i s f o r m u l a uses an o p t i m i z e d comb ina t ion o f C r o s u l t a i n e High Foaming Shower Gel

C-50, I n c r o d e t TD-7C and SLES ( 3 mole) t o produce a c l e a r , h i g h foaming, l ow c o l o r , and low odor b a t h and shower g e l . C r o t h i x i s used t o p r o v i d e t h e body and v i s c o s i t y seen i n t h e fo rmu la , and Crovo l A-70 i s used t o s o l u b i l i z e t h e f r a g r a n c e and m a i n t a i n t h e c l a r i t y o f t h e p r o d u c t . I n q r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : SLES ( 3 mole) 2 0 . 0 I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) 7 . 0 C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) 2 0 . 0 D i sod i um EDTA 0 .1 De ion ized water 48 .3 Germaben I 1 1 . o P a r t B: C r o t h i x (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 1 . o C rovo l A-70 (PEG-60 Almond G l y c e r i d e s ) 2 . 0 BHT 0 . 1 P a r t C : Perfume (BBA 860753) 0 . 5 Procedure:

o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 65-7OC. Con t inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g . When c l e a r , add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h 10% NaOH s o l u t i o n .

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Combine i ngred i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i ng. Combi ne i n g r e d i e n t s

Formula BP-41

30 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Foam Baths, Clear

0 70/136: Ze teso l NL Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

B 70/123: Ze teso l 2056 Pur ton CFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

p r e s e r v a t i v e

46.0% 2.0%

q . s t o make 100.0%

27.0% 2.0%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

B 70/117: Ze teso l 856T 35 0% S e t a c i n 103 Spez ia l 5.0% Oxypon 2145 2.0% Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%

0 70/148: Ze teso l 2056 Oxypon 288 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

40.0% 2.0% 1 .5%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

B 70/161: Ze teso l 856 T 35.0% Oxypon 328 4.5% Jo joba o i l 0.5% Pur ton CFD 2.0% Perfume 1 .O% Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%

Foam Baths, Pearlescent

B 71/16: Ze teso l 2056 P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

871 / 4 : Zeteso l 856T Se tac in 103 Spez ia l P e r g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 Oxypon 2145 Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

27.0% 3.0% 0.8% 2.5%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

37.0% 6.0% 7.5% 3.0%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: Suggested Formula t ions

Bath and Shower Products 31

Herbal Foam Bath

A . Mar lon PS 65 Mar l i n a t 242/28 D i o n i l OC/K Ampholyt J B 130 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Water

B. Perfume Ex t rapon 3-Specia l P r e s e r v a t i v e Col ou r NaCl

5 . 0 35 .0

3 .0 10 .0 9 . 0

t o 100.0

qs 2 . 0

qs qs qs

P r e p a r a t i o n :

s t i r r e d w h i l e warmed u n t i l homogeneous. The components under 6. a r e added t o those o f A . a t about 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o

The components under A . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and

5 .5 -6 .6 .

Foam Bath, Transparent

Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 Mar lamid DF 1218 Magnesium s u l p h a t e Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water

x 7H20

%

10 .0 2 . 0 0 . 5

qs qs qs qs

t o 100.0

3 5 . 5

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet ics:

The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Suggested Formul a t i ons

32 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mild Shower Gel

Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t DFN 30 Ampholyt JB 130 Lamepon S Camomi l e Speci a1 Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i v e A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water P r e p a r a t i o n :

The components u n t i l homogeneous

% 2 2 . 0

6 . 0 1 6 . 0

5 . 0 2 . 0

qs qs qs qs

t o 100.0

a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

Shower Bath Gel with Pearl Lustre

Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 D i o n i l O C / K Mar l amid PG20 Panthenol Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water Procedure:

u n t i l homogeneous. The components

% 4 3 . 0 1 0 . 0

5 . 0 3 . 0 3 . 0 0 . 2

qs qs qs qs

t o 100.0

a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

Clear, Mild to the Skin Shower Bath

Ampholyt JB 130 Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 D i o n i l O C / K Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The components

18 .0 1 4 . 0 11 - 0

1 . 5 qs qs qs qs

t o 100.0

a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .6 -6 .5 .

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmetics: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Bath and Shower Products 33

Refreshing Shower Gel

M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l i n a t DFK 30 Ampholyt JB 130 D i o n i l O C / K Rosemary S p e c i a l S t i n g i n g N e t t l e S p e c i a l Hamamel i s Speci a1 Marlowet R40/K Menthol Perfume Co lour P r e s e r v a t i v e A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water

% 3 2 . 0 1 7 . 0 1 1 . 5

2 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 5 1 . o 0 . 5

qs qs qs qs

t o 1 0 0 . 0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Shower Gel

Mar l i n a t 2 4 2 / 2 8 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 Ampholyt J A 140 D i o n i l O C / K P e r f ume Co lour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:

The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r in sequence and s t i r r e d

Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

34 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Bath for Everyday Use

Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Ampholyt J B 130 D i o n i l O C / K Marlamid PG 20 Panthenol V i tamin F Perfume Colour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water

% 3 5 . 0 16 .0 8 . 0 2 . 0 1 . o 0 . 1 0 . 1

qs qs qs qs

t o 1 0 0 . 0

P r e p a r a t i on :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5. The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Mild Foam Bath

Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 D i o n i l OC/K I v y Spec ia l Rosemary Spec ia l Perfume Colour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water

%

18.0 30.0

3.0 0.3 0 . 1

qs qs qs qs

t o 1 0 0 . 0

Prepara t i on :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5.

SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Formula t ions f o r Cosmetics:

The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Suggested Formula t ions

0 75/26: Ze teso l 2056 Se tac in 103 Spez ia l Pur ton CFD Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

Bath and Shower Products 35

Shower Baths, Clear

25.0% 9.0% 1.0% 1 . O % 2.5%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

0 75/5: Ze teso l 856 T 21 -5% Amphotensid G 0 2009 8.0% Pur ton SFD 2.0% Oxypon 2145 1 .0% Perfume 1 .O% Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e , sodium c h l o r i d e q . s . t o make 100.0%

Shower Baths, Pearlescent

0 75/6: E x t r a k t 52 P e r l g 7 a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

42.0% 5.0% 2.0%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

0 75/27: Ze teso l 2056 27.0% P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 4.0% Pur ton CFD 2.0% Oxypon 2145 1 .O% Perfume 1 .O% Sodium c h l o r i d e , water , p r e s e r v a t i v e q.s. t o make 100.0%

0 75/56: Ze teso l 856 T P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 Oxeta l VD 20 Oxypon 2145 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

22.0% 5.0% 2.0% 1 .O% 1 . O %

q . s . t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimrner 8 Schwarz GmbH & Go. : Suggested Formula t ions

36 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shower Gel Cleanser

A g e n t l e foaming g e l c leanser designed t o t h o r o u g h l y deep c leanse and r e f r e s h t h e s k i n w i t h o u t d i s t u r b i n g t h e s k i n ' s n a t u r a l m o i s t u r e ba lance.

I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: % by Weight P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water Polyquaternium-10 C i t r i c A c i d Tet rasod i um EDTA Methylparaben Sodi um P C A / A j i dew N-50

P a r t 0 : Sodi um Laure th S u l f a t e TEA-Cocoyl G lu tamate /Amiso f t CT-12 Cocami dopropy l Be ta ine PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e Laurami de DEA

P a r t C : Fragrance/#IY-67 M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i azo l i none and Methyl i s o t h i azo l i none

P a r t D : Sodium C h l o r i d e

Procedure:

50.150 0 * 200 0.100 0.100 0 .150 0.500

30.000 10.000

5.000 0.700 2.000

0.250 0.050

0.800

D ispe rse Polymer JR-125 i n d e i o n i z e d wa te r . Heat t o 70C. Add rema in ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Mix a t 70C u n t i l comp le te l y homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . M ix w e l l . Add p a r t D as needed t o i ncrease v i scos i t y . Con t i nue m i x i ng and coo l i ng t o 35C. Appearance: C lea r l i q u i d / p H : 5 . 2 0 - 5 . 7 0 / V i s c o s i t y : 4,000-6,000 cps

Bath Crystals

A g e n t l e m i l k y b a t h c r y s t a l f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t w i l l r e l a x your senses w i t h t h e aroma o f t h e h o t ba ths o f Japan. I t w i l l l e a v e your s k i n c l e a n and smooth w h i l e t a k i n g your mind t o f a r and e x o t i c p l a c e s .

I n g r e d i e n t s : Sodium C h l o r i d e Cocoyl G lu tamate /Amiso f t CA Fragrance/Takasago Cabos i l M-5

% by Weight 86 .00

7 IO0 1 .50 0 .50

B lend i n g r e d i e n t s 1,2,3. Premix i n g r e d i e n t s 4 and 5 . Add premix t o p re -b lend and mix u n t i l homogeneous and u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Bath and Shower Products 37

Silky Bath Gel

Rhodigel i s used as a t h i c k e n e r and foam s t a b i l i z e r f o r t h i s s i l k y b a t h g e l f o r m u l a . Vanseal NALS-30 p r o v i d e s foam enhancement and s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g p r o p e r t i e s . The cocoamidopropyl b e t a i n e and sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e s u r f a c t a n t s p r o v i d e good c l e a n i n g and r i n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s f o r t h i s f o r m u l a . The g l y c e r i n and PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r a r e e m o l l i e n t s which c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e e legan t a f t e r f e e l .

I n q r e d i e n t : A Rhodigel

De ion i zed Water G1 y c e r i n

B Vanseal NALS-30 Cocoami dopropy l b e t a Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a

C PPG-3 m y r i s t y l e t h e r

P r e s e r v a t i v e , c o l o r ,

( 2 ) Lexa ine C ( 3 ) S ipon ES-2 ( 4 ) P r o m y r i s t y l PM-3

P r e p a r a t i o n :

ne ( 2 ) e ( 3 )

( 4 )

f r ag rance

‘YO bv W t . 0 . 5 0

5 5 . 0 0 1 . o o

8 . 0 0 1 6 . 0 0 1 6 . 0 0

3 .50

q . s

Add Rhodigel t o t h e water s l o w l y , w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t h i g h shear . Rhodigel w i l l become u n i f o r m l y d i s t r i b u t e d th roughou t t h e water and t h i c k e n i n g w i l l b e g i n . A t t h i s t i m e , a d j u s t t o g e n t l e m i x i n g . Gen t le , u n i f o r m m i x i n g w i l l s o l u b i l i z e t h e Rhodigel i n t i m e and w i l l a l s o m in im ize a i r en t rapment . Add g l y c e r i n and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add A t o 50C and h o l d t h i s tempera ture whi l e addi ng remai n i ng i ngred i e n t s . Add B i ngred- i e n t s i n o rde r u s i n g g e n t l e m i x i n g t o a v o i d a i r en t rapment . A d d i t i o n o f C w i l l t h i c k e n fo rmu la t o a ge l c o n s i s t e n c y .

Cons is tency : F lowab le g e l . ( V i s c o s i t y : 8 0 0 0 - 1 0 , 0 0 0 cps)

Suggested Packaging: Squeeze b o t t l e o r t ube .

Commen t s :

development o f new p roduc ts o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

S O U R C E : R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : Formula No. 429

T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s designed t o serve as a gu ide f o r t h e

38 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water White Shower Gel

Sandopan DTC a c i d , used as t h e secondary s u r f a c t a n t , c o n t r i b - u t e s t o t h e m i ldness o f t h e s u r f a c t a n t system. Velsan P8-3 i s an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a v e l v e t y f e e l t o c r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e shower g e l - h a s good foaming c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .

t h e s k i n . T h i s v i s c o s i t y and

m r e d i e n t s : Standapol ES-3 Sandopan DTC A c i d Lauramide DEA Velsan P8-3 Glucamate DOE-120 Germaben I 1 Versene NA Fragrance De ion ized Water Procedure: Phase A : Hvdra te Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene

w 41 .25 10.00

3 .30 2 .oo 1 . 7 0 1 . o o 0.10 0 . 0 5

q s

NA i n a l l o f t h e d e i o n i z e d wa te r .

a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 . Phase B : Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Combine Phase A&B,

P roper t i es :

Fo rmu la t i on CHS-51 V i s c o s i t y : 8500 cps % S o l i d s : 29.0% pH: 6 . 0

Shower Gel

Sandobet SC and Sandopan DTC a c i d c o n t r i b u t e t o t h e m i ldness of t h e s u r f a c t a n t system and add t o t h e foaming p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e shower g e l . Velsan P8-3 i s an e m o l l i e n t e s t e r t h a t adds a v e l v e t y f e e l t o t h e s k i n . T h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r shower g e l has good v i scos i t y and foaming c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s .

I n g r e d i e n t s : w Standapol ES-3 46.40 Sandobet SC 10.00 Sandopan DTC A c i d 5 . 6 0 Laurami de DEA 3.30 Velsan P8-3 2 .00 Glucamate DOE-120 1 . 7 0 Germaben I 1 1 . oo Versene NA 0 . 1 0 Fragrance 0 . 0 5 De ion ized Water qs Procedure: Phase A : Hyd ra te Glucamate DOE-120 and Versene NA i n a l l o f t h e

Phase B : Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Combine Phase A&B,

Fo rmu la t i on CHS-52

SOURCE: Sandoz Chemicals Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

d e i o n i z e d wa te r ,

a d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0

Section IV Beauty Aids

39

40 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aloe Vera Skin Freshner

I n p r e d i e n t s : A . De ion ized water

S t e a r i c a c i d t r i p l e pressed G l y c e r o l

Percent 49.50 18.00 5.00

B . Potass i um h y d r o x i de 1 . 2 0

C . De ion ized water Veragel 200 powder

5 .00 0.25

D . W i t c h Hazel E x t r a c t 25.80

Procedure: Heat P a r t A t o 70C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . S l o w l y add P a r t B t o

P a r t A . Cool t o 40C. w i t h s t i r r i n g . Combine P a r t C and add t o P a r t A and P a r t B. Add P a r t D w i t h s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 25C. Package a t room tempera ture .

Powder Mask Activator

I n a r e d i e n t s : Percent De ion ized Water 9 5 . 3 Croquat M (Cocodimonium Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n ) 0 . 5 Incronam AL-30 (Almondami dopropy l B e t a i n e ) 0 .5 Honey 1 .2 A l o e Veragel L i q u i d 1 . o L i p o f r u i t Cucumber 0 . 5 Germaben I 1 1 . o

Procedure: D i s s o l v e Germaben I 1 i n w a t e r . When u n i f o r m , add Incronam

AL-30. Next d i s s o l v e a l o e , honey and cucumber e x t r a c t . M i x w e l l . Add Croquat M. A d j u s t pH t o pH 4.2+-0.1 w i t h 10% TEA. Immediate ly p r i o r t o a p p l i c a t i o n mix t h e two components t o fo rm a t h i c k p a s t e . Recommended use 1 : l r a t i o .

SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

Beauty Aids 41

Blemish/Scar Concealer

P r o t o p e t 1 S Pe t ro la tum C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 Octy ldodecano l O z o k e r i t e Pheny ld imeth icone Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l S y n t h e t i c r e s i n Propy lparaben A n t i o x i d a n t T a l c C1 ay S i l i c a T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e I r o n o x i d e s

Skin Cleanser with Porous Cellulose Particles

Beeswax P a r a f f i n P r o t o p e t 1s Pe t ro la tum C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l S o r b i t a n Sesqu io lea te Po lyoxye thy lene s o r b i t a n monooleate Water Fragrance Porous C e l l u l o s e p a r t i c l e s

9.80% 1 6 . 0 0

6 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 1 . 6 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0 8 . 0 0 8 . 0 0 0 . 3 0

41 . O O 4 . 0 0

3 . 0 0 % 5 . 0 0

15.00 41 - 0 0

4 . 2 0 0 . 8 0

2 5 . 0 0 1 . o o 5 . 0 0

SOURCE: W i t co C o r p . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formul a t ! ons

42 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Body Scrub

I n g r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) ( 2 ) De ion ized Water ( 3 ) Beeswax (4) Spermacet ic, s y n t h e t i c (5) Sorb i t o 1 Monopalymatate ( 6 ) Po lyso rba te 60 (7 ) C e t y l A l coho l ( 8 ) L i g h t M ine ra l O i 1 (9) S i l t e x -50 +lo0 Mesh

P r e s e r v a t i v e , Co lo r , & Perfume

% bv Weight 3 . 0

6 0 . 2 1 . 4 1.4 3.3 3.3 2 . 8

1 8 . 6 6 . 0 q . s .

Procedure:

mix and hea t (3), (4), ( 5 ) , (6), (7), and ( 8 ) t o 80C. Add t o water phase w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Slow m ixe r and add ( 9 ) . Cool b e f o r e f i l l i n g c o n t a i n e r s .

p roduc t used.

a b l e i n g r e d i e n t s .

D isperse ( 1 ) i n t o ( 2 ) and hea t t o 70C. I n separa te c o n t a i n e r ,

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g flamm-

Body Powder

I n o r e d i e n t s : % bv Wei Qht (1 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e 5 . 0 ( 2 ) Z i n c Oxide 5 .0 ( 3 ) Magnesium Carbonate ( l i g h t ) 1 5 . 0 ( 4 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 7 5 . 0 ( 5 ) Fragrance, Pigments, & P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .

Procedure:

16 hours . Dry mix rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s .

used.

SOURCE: Kaopo l i t e , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Mix f r a g r a n c e w i t h ( 3 ) and a l l o w t o s tand f o r app rox ima te l y

F o l l o w recommended p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p roduc t

Beauty Aids 43

Cheek Rouge

M a t e r i a1 s : 1. M i n e r a l O i l SUS 65/75 2 . Ceraphyl 368 3 . Castorwax 4. Beeswax 5 . Super Corona L a n o l i n 6 . Lexgard P 7 . Bentone Gel M I 0 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 8 . Pigment Concentrate* 9 . T i m i r o n Pear l Sheen MP-30 1 0 . T a l c 1623 11 .328 T i t a n i um D i o x i d e CTFA 12 .Co lo r No. 7055 Pur Oxy Y e l l o w B.C. 13.Color No. 7153 Lo-Micron P i n k B.C. 14.Perfume

*Pigment Concen t ra te : Co lo r No. 3121 D & C Red. No. 21 Cas to r O i l

% b y Weight 17.00 1 5 . 0 0

2.50 6.00

10.00 0.15

15.00 3 . 0 0 4.00

18.00 6 .00 1 . 5 0 1.50 0 . 3 5

3 0 . 0 0 70.00

Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 th rough 5 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d

2 . B r i n g tempera tu re down t o 80C. Add and mix i n i t e m 7 u n t i l i t

3 . Add and mix i t e m 8 f o r 5 m inu tes o r u n t i l d i s p e r s e d . 4 . Add i t e m s 9 th rough 13. Add each powder s e p a r a t e l y , making

k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l m e l t e d c l e a r .

i s homogeneous. M ix f o r 10 m inu tes .

s u r e t h a t each pigment i s p r o p e r l y d i s p e r s e d b e f o r e t h e n e x t a d d i t i o n .

5 . Add i t e m 14 and m i x .

Note :

smooth, homogeneous f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t .

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Formula TS-129

I t ems 10 th rough 13 shou ld be m i c r o p u l v e r i z e d t o ach ieve a

44 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Concealing Stick

T h i s p r o d u c t c o v e r s f i n e f a c i a1 1 i nes and b lemishes n a t u r a l l y , l e a v i n g a f l e x i b l e b a r r i e r which a l s o r e t a i n s m o i s t u r e and c o n d i t i o n s t h e s k i n . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax) i s used as a pigment d i s p e r s e r which makes t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n e a s i e r and thereby a v o i d i n g t h e expense o f m i l l i n g .

Phase A: Castor O i l (Caschem) Pet ro la tum, Whi te (Wi tco) S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Carnauba Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Jo joba Wax ( F l o r a Tech) P a r a f f i n Wax 130/135 (Kos ter Keunen) O z o k e r i t e 170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Squalane ( B a r n e t ) V i t a m i n E (Roche)

Phase 8 : Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) Cosmetic Tan I r o n Oxide (Sun Chemical) Brown I r o n Oxide (Sun Chemical)

Phase C : L i q u i p a r ( S u t t o n )

27.3% 22.0% 10.0% 6.0% 5.0% 5.0% 4.0% 1.5% 1.0% 1 .0% 0 .5%

9.0% 5 .0% 1.5% 0.2%

1 .O%

Procedure: Heat and mix Phase B t i l l p igments a r e even ly d i s p e r s e d .

Weigh Phase A and i n d i v i d u a l l y add t o Phase B w h i l e m i x i n g . Heat AB t i l l homogeneous, add Phase C, c o o l and pour a t 60C.

Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n t h i s p r o d u c t can be

poured i n t o a compact t r a y . Large v a r i a t i o n s can be made i n wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s t h a t a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n s t i c k p r o d u c t s and s t i l l produce a s i m i l a r f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t .

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

Beauty Aids 45

Cream Eye Shadow

I n a r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) ( 2 ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y ) ( 3 ) De ion ized Water ( 4 ) Sodium Laury l S u l f a t e ( 5 ) Propy lene G lyco l ( 6 ) T r i e thano l ami ne ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 8 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (cosmet ic g rade) (9 ) I r o n Oxides (cosmet ic grade, f o r d e s i r e d ( 1 0 ) S t e a r i c A c i d ( 1 1 ) G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( 1 2 ) Lanol i n ( 1 3)Sesame O i 1 ( 1 4 ) O l i v e O i l ( 1 5 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (16)Fragrance and P r e s e r v a t i v e

% bv Weight 2 . 0 0 . 2

49.3 0 . 3 5 . 0 0 . 4

20 .0 5 .5

c o l o r ) 4 .5 0 . 8 2 . 0 4 . 0 2 . 0 1 . o 3 .0 q . s .

Procedure:

c o n t i n u e t o d i s p e r s e . S low ly add ( 4 ) , ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , (E), and ( 9 ) . Cont inue m i x i n g a t h i g h speed u n t i l w e l l d i spe rsed . Heat t h i s m i x t u r e t o 65C and deaera te . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r mix ( l o ) , ( l l ) , ( 1 2 ) , ( 1 3 ) , ( 1 4 ) , and (15 ) , and heat t o 70C u n t i l un i fo rm. Add t h i s m i x t u r e s l o w l y t o (1 -9 ) w h i l e under a g i t a t i o n . Cont inue t o mix u n t i l c o o l . (16) can be added t o e i t h e r (1 -9) m i x t u r e o r a t t h e end depending on t h e recommendations o f t h e suppl i e r .

Fo l l ow recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p roduc t used.

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g f lammable i ngred i e n t s .

Mix ( 1 ) i n t o ( 3 ) w i t h h i g h shear u n t i l d i spe rsed . Add ( 2 ) and

Dry Powder Rouge Base

I n a r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) Lanol i n A l coho l Ace ta te ( 2 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e (3) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 4 ) Magnesium S t e a r a t e ( 5 ) Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s , & Pigments

% by Weiqht 4 .0 6.0

88.0 2 . 0 q . s .

Procedure: Dry mix and p ress as r e q u i r e d . F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each

p roduc t used.

SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

46 Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations

Cream Facial Scrub

P a r t A: G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE* M i n e r a l O i l Saf f 1 ower O i 1 Sesame O i l Squalene D i o c t y l A d i p a t e (and) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (and) O c t y l

Pa l m i t a t e * * S t e a r i c A c i d C e t y l A l coho l Hydroxypropy l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e * * * P a r t B : Water A loe Vera Gel Germaben I 1 P a r t C : T r i e thano l ami ne P a r t D: Acuscrub 44 Procedure:

S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t A and P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s and t o 8OC w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h a t i o n . Add P a r t C and beg in t o c o o l . A t 50C, modera te ly Acuscrub 44 and s t i r u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . * Henkel/Emery (Emerest 2407) ** Caschem (Wickenol 163) *** Dow Chemical Co. (Methocel 40-100)

Wt%

5 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o 1 . o 1 . o

1 . o 2 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 5

68.7 1 . o 1 . a

1 . o

1 0 . 0

hea t a g i t - add

Oil-In-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative

%

2. S t e a r i c A c i d 0 . 5 3 . Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i l ) 6 .0 4 . I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e 12.5 5 . S o r b i t a n Monostearate 1 . 3 6 . Po lyoxye thy lene 20 S o r b i t a n Monostearate 1 . a 7. Sorbo ( s o r b i t o l 70%, water 30%) 5 . 0 8 . Carbopol 940 1 . o 9 . Germaben I 1 0 . 8 10. Water 68.35 11. T r i e thano l ami ne 0.75 12.Perfume Q . S .

Weigh 1-6, t hen weigh 7-10. Heat 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a

1 . A-C 617 Po lye thy lene 2 . 0

Procedure:

homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n reaches 85C, hea t o i l phase t o 90-95C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e wax has d i s s o l v e d . Combine 1-10 and shear u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogen- eous. Add 11 and shear w e l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12.

SOURCE: AlliedSignal Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Beauty Aids 47

Cream-to-Powder Eye Shadow with Dry-Floc PC

Dry F l o c PC, a h i g h l y water r e s i s t a n t s t a r c h , p r o v i d e s a

Dermacryl LT p r o v i d e s water r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e s i l k y smooth e l e g a n t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e .

p r o t e c t i o n as w e l l as improved coverage. I n a r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : Eutanol G 13.00 Dermacryl LT 1 .oo Phase B: M u l t i w a x W-835 0.30 Bentone Gel VS-5 PC 30.00 Phase C: M y r i t o l 318 3.00 T r i v e n t SS-20 0.50 Emerest 2452 4.00 V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e 0.10 I s o p a r H 7.40 Cab-0-Si 1 TS-530 0.50 Spect rapear l BLG 10.00 Dry-F lo PC 30.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.20 Procedure:

t o BOC, mix u n t i l complete. Add Phase 8, mix t h o r o u g h l y . Combine Phase C . Add Phase C t o A/B mix t h o r o u g h l y . Cool t o room temp- e r a t u r e . Formula 8302-115

Phase A, s l o w l y s i f t Dermacryl LT i n t o O c t y l Dodecanol, heat

Liquid Talc

Tapioca F l o u r g i v e s a s o f t powdery a f t e r f e e l and i s t a l c f r e e . I n a r e d i e n t s : SD A lcoho l 40 (190 P r o o f ) Crodacol S-95NF

yU-& 54.00

0.75 V i t a m i n E 1 .oo Dexpanthenol 1 .oo Tween 80 0 .75 Fancol ALA 1 .oo E s t a l a n 430 10.00 Dermol 89 6.00 Dermol 105 4.00 Ceraphyl 375 0.75 Ethomeen C-25 2.00 Carbopol 1382 0.75 Tapioca 18.00 Ethomeen C-25 qs pH 7.00

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s except Carbopol 1382 and Tapioca. M i x w i t h good a g i t a t i o n u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y s i f t i n Carbopol 1382. Mix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d ispersed. S i f t i n Tapioca. M i x u n t i l u n i - form. Add Ethomeen C-25 t o o b t a i n pH o f 7 .0 package. Formul a 791 5-68 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Suggested Formulas

48 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Creamy Eye Shadow

M a t e r i a1 s : 1. I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e - D i s t i 2 . S t e a r y l A l c o h o l 3 . Beeswax 4. Ganex V-220 5. Cyc lometh icone 6. S o l t r o l 100 7 . H i - S i 1 T-600 8 . Bentone Gel SS71 r h e o l o g

% bv Weight 1 ed 2.0

3 . 0 6 .0 5.0 3.0 5 .0 0 . 8

c a l a d d i t i v e 45.0 6.0 9 . C h r o m a - l i t e Dark B lue

10.50% 328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e CTFA Extended w i t h T a l c 141

1 1 . F1 amenco Vel v e t - 1 00 1 2 , P r e s e r v a t i v e

20 .0

4.0 0 . 2

M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1. Weigh i t e m s 1 t o 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e .

2 . B r i n g tempera ture down t o 65C. Add 5 and s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g

3. M a i n t a i n tempera ture t o 65C. Add and mix i tems 7 and 8 u s i n g

4. Add i t e m s 9 and 10. Mix t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n t o

5. Add i t e m s 11 and 12 and mix f o r 5 minu tes . 6 . Pour a t 62-63C j u s t b e f o r e i t s t a r t s c o n g e a l i n g . Formula TS-249

Heat t o 70C u n t i l me l ted c l e a r .

t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . Mix f o r 5 minu tes .

a homomixer a t medium speed. Mix u n t i l homogeneous ( lump f r e e )

d i s p e r s e p igments u n i f o r m l y .

Waterproof Eye Liner

M a t e r i a l s : 1 . Beeswax 2 . Ganex V-220 3. S h e l l Sol 71 4. Bentone Gel SS71 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 5. P r e s e r v a t i v e 6. Chroma- l i te B l a c k

% bv Wei q h t 16.5

5 . 0 35 .0 33.5

0 .2 9 .8

Manufac tur ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 and 2 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e .

Heat t o 70C and h o l d u n t i l me l ted c l e a r . 2. B r i n g tempera ture down t o 65C. Add i t e m 3 s l o w l y , w h i l e

m i x i n g , t o a v o i d sudden c o o l i n g . M i x f o r 5 minu tes . 3. M a i n t a i n tempera ture a t 60C. Add and mix i n i t e m 4 u s i n g a

homomixer a t medium speed. Mix u n t i l homogeneous. NOTE: A c l e a n chrome s p a t u l a d ipped i n t o t h e g e l mass w i l l show an even s u r f a c e sheen, w i t h no agglomerates when proper1 y d i spersed .

4. Add i t e m s 5 and 6 s e p a r a t e l y . M ix t h o r o u g h l y a f t e r each a d d i t i o n .

5. Pour a t 55-60C j u s t b e f o r e i t s t a r t s congea l ing . Formula TS-189 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

BeautyAids 49

Creamy Matte Make UP Base I n a r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) De ion ized Water ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) ( 3 ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) ( 4 ) Tamol N ( 5 ) Propy lene G l y c o l (6 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 7 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (8) I r o n Oxide ( m i c r o n i z e d ) (9 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e ( 1 0 ) S o r b i t o l Monolaurate ( 11 ) P o l y s o r b a t e 20 ( 1 2 ) S t e a r y l A l c o h o l (13)Amerchol-L-l Ol

Perfume & P r e s e r v a t i v e

% bv Weiaht 54.20

3.00 0.50 0.30 5 . 0 0

19.80 3.70 1.50 5.00 0.75 2.25 2.00 2.00 q . s .

Procedure: Mix w i t h h i g h shear ( l ) , ( 2 ) , and ( 3 ) u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d

( a p p r o x i m a t e l y 20 minu tes) . Add (41, (51, (61, (71, and ( 8 ) and heat t o approx imate ly 60C. I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , mix ( 9 ) , ( l o ) , ( l l ) , (12) , and (13) and heat t o 70C w h i l e m i x i n g . Add t o t h e o t h e r mix and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l c o o l .

each p r o d u c t used.

f lammable i n a r e d i e n t s .

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g - - Liquid Make-Up

I n a r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) De ion ized Water ( 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF arade)

% bv Weiah 66.

I .

i >

( 3 ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u i o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) 0 .5 ( 4 ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 1 . o (5) Tamol-N 0 . 4 (6 ) Lexanol PG 900 5 . 0 ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 7.0 ( 8 ) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (cosmet ic grade) 2 .0 (9 ) I r o n Oxide (mic ron ized) 1 . o (10)Lexmul P 0 .5 ( 1 1 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 5 .0 (12)Lexate I L 4 .5 ( 1 3 ) S t e a r i c A c i d 2.0 ( 1 4)Mi n e r a l O i 1 3 .0

P r e s e r v a t i v e & Fragrance q . s . Procedure:

d i s p e r s e u n t i l u n i f o r m . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , (5 ) , (61, (71, ( 8 ) , and ( 9 ) . Heat t o 70C. I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , h e a t and mix ( l o ) , ( l l ) , (12) , (13) and ( 1 4 ) t o 70C. Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t h i s t o t h e aqueous phase. Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 30C.

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used.

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g f 1 ammable i n g r e d i e n t s . SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

D isperse ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) a t h j g h speed. Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e t o

50 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Creamy Roll-On Lip Gloss

Mater i a1 s : 1 . I ndopo l H-100 2 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50 3 . Propy lparaben 4 . Tenox 4 5 . Bentone Gel LO1 Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e 6 . Pigment Concent ra te* 7 . T i m i r o n Super Red 8 . Perfume

*Pigment Concent ra te : Cas tor O i l Co lo r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6

% bv Wei a h t 52 .0 2 4 . 5

0 . 1 0 . 1

20 .0 0 .2 3 . 0 0 . 1

6 0 . 0 40.0

Manufac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t ems 1 th rough 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t k e t t l e .

2 . B r i n g tempera ture down t o 75C; add and mix i n i t e m 5 u s i n g

3. Add i t e m 6 and mix f o r 5 minu tes o r u n t i l d ispersed; t hen add

4 . Cont inue m i x i n g a t medium speed and lower tempera ture t o 60C.

Heat t o 80C and h o l d u n t i l me l ted c l e a r .

homomixer a t medium speed. Mix f o r 10 minu tes a t 75C.

i t e m 7 and mix f o r another 5 m inu tes .

Add i t e m 8 . Remove hea t and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temp- e r a t u r e .

Pigment Concent ra te P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s low speed

2 . G ive t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes ove r a t h r e e r o l l m i l l a t

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested Formula TS-190

Hobar t t y p e mixer u n t i l u n i f o r m .

room tempera tu re .

Beauty Ai& 51

Deep Extra Body Conditioner

T h i s fo rmu la u t i l i z e s t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hexane- d i o l Behenyl Beeswax i n a s i l i c o n e o i l and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s o f Bee 's M i l k .

Oil Phase A : E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF (Kos te r Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i l 245 (Dow) S i 1 i cone O i 1 556 (Dow) Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax (Kos te r Keunen) L e c i t h i n (Am. L e c i t h i n ) L iquapar ( S u t t o n ) Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Water Phase 0: Carbopol 940 2% S o l u t i o n (BF Goodr ich) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (DuPont) T r i e thano l ami ne (Dow) Cocamide (Croda) S i l k Powder (Dasco) Mar ine Dew (Aj inornoto) S i l k S o l u b l e L i q u i d (Dasco) Water ( D i s t i 11 ed) Methyl Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Phase C: Bee 's M i l k (Kos te r Keunen) Fragrance (Aroma Tech)

3.0% 2.5% 2.0% 1 .O% 1 .O% 0.5% 0.2%

10.0% 0.5% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1%

68.3% 0.3%

10.0% 0.2%

Procedure: M i x and heat water phase t o 70-75C. M e l t o i l phase and add

t o water phase a t 70-75C under a g i t a t i o n . Cont inue m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g . A t 40C add phase C and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 35C.

Adap ta t i on o f f o rmu la and I t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changes i n t h e a c t i v e s and t h e c o n d i t i o n e r s a r e s t r a i g h t

forward, s imp le replacements. Gafquat ' s would be a c l a s s o f c o n d i t i o n e r s wh ich would f i t t h i s fo rmu la w e l l .

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

52 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emollient Liquid Make-up

Conceals minor s k i n i m p e r f e c t i o n s y e t m o i s t u r i z e s , g i v i n g s k i n a s o f t dewy f i n i s h . T h i s Produc t has tremendous endurance th rough v e r y v i g o r o u s a c t i v i t i e s .

Phase A: Xanthan Gum (Ke lco ) C e l l u l o s e Gum (Aqualon) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r ie thano lamine (Dow) PEG 1450 (Union Carb ide) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) Propy l ene G1 y c o l (Dow) Po lyso rba te 60 ( G a l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r )

Phase 0: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) Brown I r o n Oxide (Warner-Jenkinson) Ye l l ow BC I r o n Oxides (Warner-Jenkinson) Orange Wax (Kos te r Keunen) Cera B e l l i n a (Kos te r Keunen)

Phase C : O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Ba rne l ) S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Hydrogenated Castor O i l (Acme) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Jo joba O i 1 ( Jo joba Growers) Propy l ene G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e ( I n o l ex) Propy lparaben ( S u t t o n )

Procedure: D ispe rse pigments i n t h e Orange Wax and Cera B e l l

beaker w i t h a g l a s s s t i r r i n s rod , a l l o w t o s o l i d i f y .

0.33% 0.23% 50.55% 0.70% 2 I 35% 0.28% 1.88% 0.47%

8.44% 2.35% 0.94% 6.10% 4.69%

6.57% 2 * 00% 6.10% 1.41% 1.50% 0. 1 0

na i n Repea

so-as- to b reak-up v i s i b l e app lomera t i ons . Mix and hea t t o 75C phase C u n t i l un i fo rm, add t o phase B under a g i t a t i o n , m a i n t a i n i n g t h e tempera ture t i l l homogeneous. Add t h e mixed . - . . . - . . . . - . . .

94% 89% 2 8%

a

ana me l ted phase B ana c t o t n e mixed and me l ted phase A . Cont inue m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g , pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t app rox ima te l y 50C.

Adapt ion o f f o rmu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

t u t e d i n minor amounts s i n c e p r o d u c t s such as these a r e sen- s i t i v e t o smal l changes t h a t w i l l a f f e c t s t a b i l i t y .

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Sunscreens, vege tab le o i l s and branched o i l s can be s u b s t i -

Beauty Aids 53

Emulsion Makeup

P a r t A : Amerchol L-1 01 Amer 1 a t e S t e a r i c a c i d , X X X G l y c e r y l monostearate, n e u t . Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1

P a r t 8: Propy lene g l y c o l T r ie thano lamine Water T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e , t a l c & pigments Perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e

4 . 5 % 0 . 9 2 . 7 1 . 8 4 . 5

4 . 5 0 . 9

7 0 . 2 1 0 . 0

q . s .

Procedure: Add P a r t 8 t o 85 C e l s i u s t o P a r t A a t 95 C e l s i u s w h i l e

s t i r r i n g . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 30 C e l s i u s . Add t o t h e m ic ron ized powder b l e n d i n inc rements , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n .

Water-in-Oil Lotion Makeup

Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e De ion ized water Magnesi urn s u l f a t e T a l c Kaol i n T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e I r o n Oxides C a r n a t i o n Hydrogenated p o l y i sobutene Carna t ion (and) 1 anol i n a1 coho1 S o r b i t o l 70% I s o p r o p y l l a n o l a t e (and) l e c i t h i n Oleamide DEA P r e s e r v a t i v e

Percent 1 . 2

37 .9 0 . 4 1 . 5 1 . 5 5 . 0 3 . 0

1 5 . 0 8 . 0 8 . 0 5 . 0 7 . 0 2 . 5 q . s .

SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fa rmu la t i ons

54 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Eye Contour Balm

The s k i n around t h e eye i s t h i n n e r , more s e n s i t i v e and r a p i d l y shows t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g and f a t i g u e such as; Crow's f e e t , sagging s k i n , d a r k c i r c l e s and p u f f i n e s s . T h i s i s des igned u s i n g n a t u r e as a s t a r t i n g p o i n t . Much o f t h e p r o d u c t ' s a c t - i v i t y comes f rom m i l d l y r e f i n e d raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t keeps i n t a c t t h e n a t u r a l p r o p e r t i e s , p r o d u c i n g a non-oi l y , q u i c k p e n e t r a t i n g and f r a g r a n c e f r e e p r o d u c t . A low c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p r e s e r v a t i v e i s needed due t o t h e minor components o f a few o f t h e raw m a t e r i a l s . W i t h r e g u l a r use t h e appearance o f a g i n g w i l l be reduced.

O i l Phase: Sweet Almond O i 1 (Croda) P r o p o l i s Wax (Kos ter Keunen) R ice Bran O i l F i l t e r e d (Kos ter Keunen) S a f f l o w e r O i l ( A r i s t a ) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Hydrogenated Castor O i l (CasChem) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) V i t a m i n E (Roche) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) C e t y l s t e a r y l A lcoho l (P&G) Squalene ( P o l y e s t h e r ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel )

Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 11 ed) Ginkgo B i l o b a ( V e r n i n ) A1 1 a n t o i n ( S u t t o n ) T r i e thano l ami ne (Dow) Xanthan Gum (Ke lco) Magnabr i te S ( W h i t t a k e r P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G e l l a r d Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

C & D) & S c h l e s i n g e r )

4 . 0 % 5.0% 4.0% 2.0% 1 .O% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 2.5% 1.5% 1.0% 2.0% 2 . 0 %

69.6% 0.5% 0.5% 1 .O% 1 .O% 0.4% 0 . 2 % 0.3%

Procedure:

under a g i t a t i o n and heat and homogenize t o 75C. Add o i l phase t o water phase under a g i t a t i o n . Cool and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r a t 45 t o 50C.

Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

f r e e o f s y n t h e t i c s p r e s e r v a t i v e s .

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Mix and heat o i l phase t o 80C. Add components o f water phase

Wi th o n l y s l i g h t changes t h i s p r o d u c t can be a l l n a t u r a l and

Beauty Aids 55

Eye Mascara

I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3 . M i n e r a l S p i r i t s 4 . D i hydroabi e t y l A1 coho1 5 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax 6 . A1 umi num S t e a r a t e 7 . B u t y l Parahydroxy Benzoate 8 . I r o n Oxide

WL% 12.0

2 .0 68.0

5 . 0 2 . 4 0 . 5 0 .1

10 .0

Procedure:

d i s s o l v e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g 6 and 7; when a l l i s d i s s o l v e d , add 8 and shear w i t h homomixer o r g r i n d i n w i t h 3 r o l l m i l l .

M ix 1-5 and hea t w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes have

Eye Mascara

I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . M i n e r a l S p i r i t s

3 . D i hyd roab i e t y l A l coho l 4 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax 5 . A1 umi num S t e a r a t e 6 . B u t y l Parahydroxy Benzoate 7 . I r o n Oxide

2 . A-C 617A

W B 70 12

5 2 . 4 0 . 5 0 . 1

10

Procedure:

d i s s o l v e d . Then s p r i n k l e w i t h s t i r r i n g 5 and 6, when a l l i s d i s s o l v e d add 7 and shear w i t h homomixer o r g r i n d i n w i t h a 3 r o l l M i l l .

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

M i x 1-4 and hea t w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l s o l i d waxes have

56 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Eye Mascara

T h i s f o r m u l a demonstrates t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a . The p r o d u c t i s q u i c k d r y i n g on t h e eye l a s h and uses a m u l t i - p h a s e emuls ion system. O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 15.0% G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) 3.5% Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 1 .O% Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0 . 3 % Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 63.6% Sodium B o r a t e (Borax) 1.5% Propylene G l y c o l (Dow) 1 .O% Carboxy Methy l C e l l u l o s e (Hercu les) 0.2% Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0 . 3 % A l c o h o l Phase: SDA-30 (Quantum) 9.0% P u r i f i e d B lack Oxide ( W h i t t a k e r ) 2 .6% Procedure:

M e l t Cera B e l l i n a t o a maximum o f 75C. Then add t h e r e s t o f t h e o i l phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Make s u r e a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mel ted . I n a separa te vesse l d i s s o l v e t h e components of t h e water phase. Add t h e water phase t o t h e o i l phase, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e tempera ture o f 75C f o r approx imate ly 15 minu tes . A l l o w t o c o o l s l o w l y . When t h e temper&-ure i s 35-40C, add t h e a l c o h o l phase under h i g h shear A d a p t a t i o n o f fo rmula and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f water ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s (decrease) by smal l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r - i e t y of p igments can be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c t s needs.

Eyeliner Stick/Pencil

T h i s p r o d u c t i n c o r p o r a t e s a l a r g e p igment l o a d a t t h e same t i m e as h a v i n g a smooth, even a p p l i c a t i o n t o t h e s k i n . The t e x t u r e i s r i d g e d , h i g h l y c o l o r e d f o r l o n g wear c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s , w i l l n o t b l e e d and i s v e r y s t a b l e . 1 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) 25.0% 2 . Ceres ine Wax 140/150 (Kos ter Keunen) 15.0% 3 . Red D&C #7 (Warner-Jenkinson) 12.5% 4 . P u r i f i e d Navy B lue ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) 12.5% 5 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 10.0% 6. G l y c e r o l T r i o c t a n o a t e ( B a r n e t ) 10.0% 7. E thy lene G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e (Henkel ) 5.0% 8 . G1 y c e r o l T r i behenate (Croda) 5.0% 9. Hydrogenated Castor O i l (CasChem) 5.0% Procedure:

Add 2,5,6,7,8 and 9 i n t o a v e s s e l . M e l t , mix and m a i n t a i n a tempera ture o f 75C, add 1,3 and 4 under h i g h shear . M a i n t a i n h i g h shear m i x i n g f o r 30-40 minu tes . Cool and pour i n t o molds.

Lower pigment l o a d and h i g h e r wax and o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n s can be s u b s t i t u t e d so-as- to f a c i l i t a t e t h e g r e a t e s t c o s t e f f e c t i v e - ness and a t t h e same t i m e , produce a l u x u r i o u s p r o d u c t . SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

Beauty Aids 57

Face and Body Milk

A . M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 900 Marlowet TA 6 Marlowet TA 25 Jo joba o i l Beeswax Propylene g l y c o l monostearate

B . K e l t r o l ge l 1% d-Panthenol USP Kar ion F Water

C . V i tam in E

D . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

Wt$ 12 .0 3 .0 1 .2 2 . 1 4.0 2 . 0 1 . o

15.0 3 . 0 5 . 6

t o 100.0

0 . 2

P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r and heated t o

75-8OC. B . i s s t i r r e d w h i l e heated t o t h e same tempera ture . B . i s e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . and D . a r e added a t approx. 30C. P r e p a r a t i o n o f t h e K e l t r o l g e l : K e l t r o l F 1 .O%

Water t o 100.0% Both components a r e added t o g e t h e r a t room tempera ture and s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e homogeneous mix forms a c l e a r g e l .

Lip Care Stick

. S o f t i s a n 100 Dynacer i n 660 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i san 649 Vase1 i ne Beeswax Hard p a r a f f i n C e t y l a l c o h o l Carnauba wax

. A n t i o x i d a n t s Perfume

P r e p a r a t i o n : A l l i n g r e d i a n t s a r e mel ted , s t i r r e d t o a creamy

u n t i l c o l d , perfume i n c o r p o r a t e d b e f o r e c a s t i n g i n

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmet

2 0 . 0 8 . 0 6 . 0 5 . 0

3 0 . 0 20.0

5 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o

qs a s

cons is tency o moulds.

cs: Formulas

58 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Face-Lotion

Ethano l 96% S o f t i g e n 767 Hamamel i s Spec Mar l owet R 4 0 / K G l y c e r o l Ampholyt J B 13

a1

Pant heno l Camomi 1 e Speci a1 Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

%

3 . 0 10.0 0 .3 2 . 0 0 . 2 0 .2 2 . 0

qs qs

t o 100.0

5 . 0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Skin Tonic Water without Alcohol

S o f t i g e n 767 1 ,2-Propyl ene g l y c o l Ex t rapon 3-Spec ia l A1 l a n t o i n Mar l owet R 4 0 / K Menthol V i t a m i n F Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

% 5 . 0 3 .0 4.0 0.5 0 . 5 0 . 3 0.2

qs qs

t o 100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5.

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:

The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Suggested Formul a t i ons

Beauty Aids 59

Facial Cleanser

Weight,% Mackanate LO-Speci a1 ( D i sodi um Laury l Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 88.0 Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 B r i j 52 2.0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

S o l i d s , %: 40.0 pH (as i s ) : 5 .5 Appearance: P e a r l y Cream

Procedure: 1. Add Mackol 16, B r i j 52 and water t o Mackanate LO-Special

2 . 61 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 t o 6 .0 w i t h sodium hyd rox ide . 4. Cool t o 50 degress C . and add Mackstat DM and f rag rance . 5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 40.0+-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t . 6 . Cool and f i l l .

and heat t o 70 degrees C .

Sting Free Facial Cleanser

Mackam 2C Sodium Laure th-1 S u l f a t e (25%) Mackerni um 007 Mackanate DC-30 Mackester SP Mackstat DM Water, Dye, Fragrance q . s . t o

Wei a h t .% 40 .0 15.0

1 .5 4 . 0 2 . 0 q . s .

100.0

Procedure: 1. Add Mackam 2C, Sodium Laure th-1 S u l f a t e , Mackanate DC-30 and

2 . Heat t o 70C. and b lend u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50C. and s l o w l y add Mackernium 007. 4. When comp le te l y d ispersed, add t h e remain ing components.

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

Mackester SP t o wa te r .

60 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Fluid Make-Up

A . M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s I m w i t o r 900 Mar loohor T 1 0 Na s a l t P a r a f f i n o i l

B . K e l t r o l g e l I%* Water Kar ion F G l y c e r o l

C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

D . T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e T a l c Z i n c o x i d e Sicomet Brown 70 C, I

The i n a r e d i e n t s o f A P r e p a r a t i o n :

77491

W_m 7 . 0 5 . 0 3.0 2 . 0 2 .0 5.0 15.0 43.0 5.0 3.0

qs qs 3.0 3.0 3.0 1 . o

a r e me l ted and heated t o 75-8OC. The f i n e l y mixed pigments D . a r e homogenised t o g e t h e r w i t h A . The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e mixed, heated t o BOC and s l o w l y e m u l s i f i e d i n A . + D . Perfume i s added a t around 3 5 C .

*P repara t i on o f t h e K e l t r o l g e l : K e l t r o l F 1.0% Water t o 100.0%

The K e l t r o l i s mixed w i t h t h e water u n t i l homogeneous and t h e m i x t u r e s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e g e l i s c l e a r .

Compact Make-Up

A . M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 900 S o f t i s a n 100 S o f t i s a n 649 Beeswax Hard p a r a f f i n S t e a r i c a c i d

8 . Sicomet Brown 70 C . I . 77491 Sicomet Brown 75 C . I. 77491 T a l c Z i n c o x i d e T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e

C. Perfume D. K a r i o n F Prepara t i on :

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . and 0. a r e me l ted t o g e t h e r added t o t h e s t i r red -un t i l - homogeneous phase B. The aga in heated t o approx. 70C and s t i r r e d u n t i l c o l d . and t h e whole mix i s homogenised.

18 .0

8 . 0 10.0

10 .0 4.0 7.0 10.0 3.0 0.5 0.5 a . o 8 . 0 8 . 0

qs 5 . 0

and g r a d u a l l y mix i s t h e n C i s added

SOURCE: H u l s America Inc.: Formu la t i ons for Cosmetics: Formulas

Beauty Aids 61

Fluid Make Up

InQred ien tS: A ) C u t i n a GMS

Eumulgin E1 Eutanol G M i g l y o l 812 Phenoni p

E) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d Euxyl K-200 C i t r i c a c i d Hyasol -BT Bentone EW Pigment p a s t e w h i t e : N r . 93975 Pigment p a s t e y e l l o w : N r . 75577 Pigment p a s t e red : N r . 68775 Pigment p a s t e b l a c k : N r . 78375

% w / w 4,OO 4 , O O

10; 00 6,OO 0,30

63,66 0,20 0 , 0 4 3,OO 0,60 5,OO 1,50 1,oo 0,40

C ) Perfume O i l : Beauty 01239870 0,30

Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f water phase B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 8 ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C,

Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d . homogenize and c o o l t o 30C.

A p p l i c a t i o n No. x 004.A/11.92

Regenerating Lipcare-Stick

I n s r e d i e n t s : 1 Wax premix No. 1 2 Pigments 3 A r l a c e l 582 4 I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea 5 P h y t a l u r o n a t e 6. C e p h a l i p i n

% w /w 72,25

7,60 10,oo 0,15 5,OO 5,OO

Procedure: M e l t Wax-Premix ( 1 ) a t 8QC i n t h e main-mixer w h i l e m i x i n g

w i t h padd les . I n c o r p o r a t e i t e m 2 and homogenize w e l l . M e l t a p a r t i t e m 3 a t 80C and s l o w l y add t h e preheated (80C)

i tems 4-6. Add t h e o b t a i n e d emuls ion (4-6) t o t h e pigmented wax-base

w h i l e m i x i n g a t 80C. Then pour i n t o t h e moulds.

A p p l i c a t i o n No. X 025.0/02.93

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

62 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Gelled Aloe Vera with Sunscreen

I n g r e d i e n t s : A . D I water

Carbopol 940 A loe Veragel L i q u i d 1 : 1

B. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

C . D I water Phenylbenzenimidazole S u l f o n i c A c i d T r i e thano l ami ne

D . DMDM Hydanto in

E. Disodium EDTA

Percent 81.18

0.92 2.3

10.0 2 . 0

t o pH 7 . 0

0 . 3

0 . 1

Procedure:

Add A loe Veragel e x t r a c t . N e u t r a l i z e w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Combine C, add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e t o a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 . Add C t o n e u t r a l i z e d A (moderate a g i t a t i o n ) . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and c h e l a t i ng agent .

D isperse Carbopol r e s i n i n t o water (under h i g h a g i t a t i o n ) .

Aloe Vera Jelly

I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Water

C i t r i c A c i d ( g r a n u l a r ) G1 ydant Germal l 115 Versene-220 Propy l Gal 1 a t e

6. Propy l G l y c o l Xanthan Gum Aubygel x-125

C. A loe v e r a 200 powder

Percent 91.94

0 . 2 0 . 3 0 .25 0.05 0.05

4 .5 0 .75 1 . 5

0 .46

Procedure:

add Phase 0 t o A . M i x s l o w l y and c o o l t o 55C. Add phase C, and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package a t between 35-45C.

SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat Phase A t o 80C. Pre mix Phase B w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and

Beauty Aids 63

Gentle Beauty Wash

T h i s e legan t beauty wash i s based on m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s t h a t r e s u l t i n a m i l d c l e a n s i n g p r o d u c t . I t s n o n - a l k a l i n e pH and combina t ion o f i n g r e d i e n t s a r e des igned t o l eave t h e s k i n c l e a n and smooth w i t h o u t harsh soap e f f e c t s .

M a t e r i a l s : 1 . De ion ized Water 2 . Propy lene G l y c o l 3. 50% Sodium Hydrox ide 4 . Bentone EW 5 . S t e a r i c Ac id , t r i p l e pressed 6 . Igepon AC78 7 . Sipon ESY 8 . S iponate DDB-40 9 . A l cona te SBR-3 10.Sodium Se th iona te 5 5 11 .Oxaban A 12 .Fragrance KU 70

% bv Weiqht 46.20

8 .00 0 . 6 0 0 . 4 0 8 . 0 0

11 - 0 0 11 .oo

5 . 0 0 2.50 6 .50 0 . 0 5 0 . 7 5

Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s :

i d e and p ropy lene g l y c o l w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . S t a r t h e a t i n g . Decrease a g i t a t i o n and add t h e s t e a r i c a c i d and Igepon AC78. Cont inue h e a t i n g u n t i l t h e Igepon AC78 has d i s s o l v e d (70 degrees C e l s i u s ) . Add t h e Sipon ESY, S iponate DDB-40, A l cona te SBR-3 and Sodium I s e t h i o n a t e 5 5 . S t a r t c o o l i n g . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and f rag rance a t 35C. The v i s c o s i t y and p e a r l w i l l deve lop upon s t a n d i ng.

I n g r e d i e n t Label : Water, Sodium cocoy l i s e t h i o n a t e , S t e a r i c a c i d , Propylene

g l y c o l , Sodium i s e t h i o n a t e , Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , Sodium dodecyl benzene s u l f o n a t e , Disodium r i c i n o l e m i d o , MEA-sulfo- succ ina te , Fragrance, H e c t o r i t e , Sodium hyd rox ide , 4 ,4 -D imethy l - o x a z o l i d i n e , 3,4,4-Trimethyloxazolidine.

Phys ica l P r o p e r t i e s :

D isperse t h e Bentone EW i n t h e d e i o n i z e d wa te r , sodium hydrox-

pH: 5 .8 -6 .1 V i s c o s i t y : B r o o k f i e l d LV4 @ 2 5 degrees C ( a t r e s t 12 h o u r s ) :

@ 3 RPMs 80,000-110,000 CP @ 6 RPMs 50,000- 70,000 CP @ 12 RPMs 30,000->50,000 CP

Appearance: White, pea r led , pumpable cream

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Rhone Poulenc P ro to type Fo rmu la t i on 91-0401

64 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair and Skin Moisturizing Mist

A r e f r e s h i ng sp ray c o n t a i n i ng spec i a1 humectants t o r e p l e n i s h much needed m o i s t u r e t o h a i r and s k i n . Con ta ins Sodium PCA t o h e l p r e s t o r e normal m o i s t u r e ba lance and keep t h e s k i n young l o o k i n g and f r e s h . A l s o c o n t a i n s A loe Vera Gel and Panthenol t o soothe, c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f rom d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r use under d r y c l i m a t i c cond- i t i o n s , d r y hea t o r d u r i n g sun exposure.

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water P o l y q u a t e r n i um-4/Celquat H-100 C i t r i c A c i d P ropy lene G1 y c o l Methy lparaben

- %

91 . I 3 0 . 0 5 0.01 2 . 0 0 0 .20

P a r t B: Sodi um PCA/Aj i dew N-50 2.00 S o r b i t o l & Sodium L a c t a t e & P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA &

Hydro1 yzed Col 1 agen/Prodew 100 2.00 Pant henol 0 .10 A loe Vera Gel/Aquasol 104 1 . o o Dimeth icone Copolyol /Dow Corn ing 193 0 . 3 0 D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 I I 0 . 2 0

P a r t C : Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate/Amisof t CT-12 P o l y s o r b a t e 20/Tween 20 Fragrance #X3110

0 I 5 0 0 . 5 0 0.01

Procedure: D i sperse Ce lqua t H100 i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t i ng d e i o n i zed wa te r .

Heat t o 70 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add rema in ing P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r and u n i f o r m . S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t 50 degrees Cen t ig rade , add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . M i x w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Premix P a r t C . A t 40 degrees Cen t ig rade add premixed P a r t C t o P a r t A . Con t inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35 degrees Cen t ig rade .

Appearance: C l e a r , l i g h t y e l l o w , w a t e r - t h i n l i q u i d pH: 5.00-5.40

SOURCE: A j i nomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids 65

Hair and Skin Moisturizing Spray

A r e f r e s h i n g spray c o n t a i n i ng spec i a1 humectants t o r e p l e n i s h much needed m o i s t u r e t o h a i r and s k i n . Conta ins Sodium PCA t o h e l p r e s t o r e normal m o i s t u r e ba lance and keep t h e s k i n young and f r e s h , A l so c o n t a i n s A loe Vera Gel t o soothe dryness , and e m o l l i e n t s t o c o n d i t i o n and p r o t e c t t h e s k i n and h a i r f rom d r y i n g o u t . Recommended f o r use under d r y c l i m a t i c c o n d i t i o n s , d r y heat o r d u r i n g sun exposure.

I n s r e d i en t /T rade Name: P a r t A : De ion ized Water Sodi um PCA/Aj i dew N-50 A loe Vera Gel Deco lo r i zed l x D imeth icone Copolyol/Dow Corn ing 193 S u r f a c t a n t D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 I I

P a r t 0 : Propylene G l y c o l Methylparaben

P a r t C : TEA-Cocoyl G lu tamate /Amiso f t C T - I 2

Procedure: Mix p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g s comp

o l v e d . Heat p a r t 0 t o 50 degrees Cen t ig rade and m i Add p a r t C . Mix w e l l .

Appearance: C lea r , c o l o r l e s s , w a t e r - t h i n l i q u i d . pH: 5 . 3 0 - 5 . 6 0

Hair Liquid (Soft Type)

% by Weiaht

8 8 . 9 5 3 .00 5 . 0 0 0 .30 0 . 1 0

e t e un

( 0 ) P y r o t e r GPI-25 2-Hexyldecyl A l coho l E t h y l A l coho l Methylparaben Perfume

( W ) A j i dew T-50 Water

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e (0) and ( W ) s e p a r a t e l y a t room tempera ture

2 . Add ( W ) t o (0) w i t h s t i r r i n g . c l e a r s o l u t i ons.

pH: 7 . 0 V i s c o s i t y : 6 cps

SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

2 . 0 0 0 . 1 5

0 . 5 0

y d i s s - il c l e a r

Wt% 9 . 0 1 . o

4 0 . 0 0 . 1 q . s .

4.0 4 5 . 9

t o be

66 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

High Shine Lipstick

High g loss , f i r m l i p s t i c k w i t h good m o i s t u r i z i n g q u a l i t i e s . L i q u e f i e s i n s t a n t l y t o an o i l , s l i p p e r y f i l m w h i l e d e p o s i t i n g v e r y l i t t l e sheer c o l o r and h i g h pear lescence.

Castor O i l Candel i 11 a Wax Ace tu lan Ross Wax 1275W Propy lene G l y c o l Mono laura te Lanogene Carnauba Wax Propy lparaben T i m i r o n MP-10 D & C Red #9 (31-3009) D & C Red #7 Ca Lake (3107) Pur . Navy B lue #7110 Fragrance

% 59 .4

8 .0 7 .5 5 . 0 5 .0 5 .0 2 . 0 0 .1 7 .0 0 . 6 0 . 3 0 .1 q . s

Procedures: G r i n d t h e pigments i n p a r t o f t h e Castor O i l u s i n g e i t h e r a

3 - r o l l m i l l o r m o r t a r / p e s t l e . Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s (except f o r p e a r l e s c e n t pigment and f r a g r a n c e and hea t g e n t l y on steam b a t h t o 80-85C. Add p e a r l , m ix u n t i l homogeneous. Fragrance shou ld be added a t l owes t p o s s i b l e tempera ture . Cast i n t o molds.

Lipstick Formulation

Ross S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a Wax I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e L a n o l i n N.F. Ross Whi te Beeswax N.F. Ross R e f i n e d P a r a f f i n Wax 130/35 Ross Whi te O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W Cas to r O i l Pigment Teg . "P"

% 10.9 9 .5 4 .4 3 .3 2 .0 0 .9

54 .3 12 .0 0 . 1

*Formu1 a t i on developed by P r e c i s i o n Cosmetic o f Mount Vernon, NY, i n c o n j u n c t i o n w i t h t h e Frank 0 . Ross Company.

SOURCE: Frank B . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Beauty Aids 67

Lip Balm White

Rosswax 2639 M i n e r a l O i l #7 S o l a r Chem 0 Fragrance GP-58

% 8 5 . 0 13.5

1 . 5 q . s .

Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l .

M ix t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n , c o o l t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and pour i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . Note: Capping may be necessary.

Lip Balm I

Castor O i l C r y s t a l 0 Emery IPP Emery 1723 Rosswax 2640 Acet u 1 an SDA A lcoho l #40 S o l a r Chem 0 Propylene G l y c o l Fragrance GP-58

%! 46.0 17.0 10 .4 19.6

2 . 5 2 . 0 1 . 5 1 . o q . s a

Procedure: M e l t a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l .

M ix t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 165F, f ragrance and pour i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . Note: Capping may be necessary.

Lip Balm II

Ross Base O i l 2539 Emery 1723 Rosswax 2641 SDA A l c o h o l #40 S o l a r Chem 0 Propylene G l y c o l Fragrance GP-58

%! 55.4 10.8 29.3

2 .0 1 . 5 1 . o q . s .

Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 19OF i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l . M ix

t h o r o u g h l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n , cool t o 165F, f r a g r a n c e and pour i n t o a c o n t a i n e r . Note: Capping may be necessary.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . R o s s C o . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

68 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lip Gloss (Souffle) M a t e r i a1 s: % by Wei u h t 1 . Beeswax 7 . 0 2 . Ceraphyl 140A 12.7 3. Propylparaben 0 . 1 4. Tenox 4 0 . 1 5. Bentone Gel LOX r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 70.0 6. Timeron Pear l Sheen MP-30 5 .0 7 . P i gment Concentrate** 0 . 4 8 . Perfume 0 . 2

Castor O i l 60 .0 C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6 40.0

**Pigment Concent ra te

1 . Weigh i t e m 1 t h r o u g h 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l me l ted c l e a r .

2 . B r i n g tempera ture down t o 78C. Add and mix i n i t e m 5 u s i n g a homomixer a t medium speed. Mix f o r another t e n minu tes .

3 . A l l i t e m 6 and mix f o r f i v e minutes o r u n t i l d ispersed; t h e n add i t e m 7 and mix f o r another f i v e minu tes .

4. Cont inue m i x i n g a t medium speed and lower tempera ture t o 60C. Add i t e m 8 . Remove heat and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l congealed o r pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r .

P i gment Concent r a t e P r e p a r a t i on : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o c a s t o r o i 1 u s i n g a s low speed Hobar t

t y p e mixer u n t i l u n i f o r m . 2 . Give t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two t o t h r e e passes over a t h r e e r o l l

m i l l a t room tempera ture .

Roll-On Lip Gloss M a t e r i a1 s : % by Wei a h t 1 . Sucrose A c e t a t e I s o b u t y r a t e 30.0 2 . I s o p r o p y l a n 33 44.5 3. Propy lparaben 0 . 1 4 . Tenox 4 0 . 1 5 . Bentone Gel LO1 r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 22.5 6 . Pigment c o n c e n t r a t e * 0 . 2 7. P e a r l Whi te 2 .5 8 . Perfume 0 . 1

*Pigment Concent ra te Castor O i l 60.00 C o l o r No. 3106 D&C Red No. 6 40.00

1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 t h r o u g h 7 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e . Heat t o 80C u n t i l me l ted c l e a r .

2 . B r i n g tempera ture down t o 75C; add and mix i n i t e m 5 u s i n g homomixer a t medium speed. Mix f o r 10 minu tes a t 75C.

3. Add i t e m 6 and mix f o r 5 minutes o r u n t i l d ispersed; t h e n add i t e m 7 and mix f o r another 5 minu tes .

4. Cont inue m i x i n g a t medium speed and lower tempera ture t o 60C. Add i t e m 8. Remove h e a t and a l l o w mass t o come t o room temp.

Pigment Concent ra te P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder i n t o t h e c a s t o r o i 1 u s i n g a s low speed

2, G i v e t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes over a 3 r o l l m i l l a t

SOURCE: Rheox. I n c , : Formulas TS-135 & TS-184

Hobar t t y p e mixer u n t i l u n i f o r m .

room tempera ture .

Beauty Aids 69

T h i s p r o d u c t u t i 1 B e l l i n a t o produce a s i l k y l a s t i n g c o l o u r Phase A: Castor O i l (Caschem) Candel i 11 a Wax (Kos t Carnauba Wax (Kos ter

Lip Pencilzes t h e d i s p e r s i v e p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera produc t which g l i d e s on e a s i l y , leaves t h a t i s water r e s i s t a n t .

r Keunen) 51.5% 8.0%

Keunen) 7.0% M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (Kos ter Keunen) 5.0% Ceres ine 130/135 Wax (Kos ter Keunen) 3 . 0 % M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) 3 .0% C e t y l A lcoho l (P&G) 1 . 5 % Phase B: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 8.0% I r o n Oxide Brown (Warner-Jenkinson) 2 .O% T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 8 .0% D&C Red #6 ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) 3 .0%

Heat and mix Phase B, d i s p e r s i n g p igments and b r e a k i n g up v i s i b l e agg lomera t ion . Add Phase A t o Phase 8 , heat and mix t o g e t h e r under a g i t a t i o n . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 65C and pour i n t o molds. Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f waxes and or o i l s w i l l s o f t e n and harden t h e p r o d u c t t o m a i n t a i n c o n s i s t e n c y when chang- i n g p igments and c o l o u r s . D i f f e r e n t p igments w i l l a f f e c t t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e base and i s compensated f o r w i t h changes i n c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f waxes and o i l s used, Sunscreens can a l s o be i n c o r p o r a t e d w i t h o u t d i f f i c u l t f o r m u l a changes.

New Look Lipstick T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g wear ing.

The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t has a h i g h o i l con- c e n t r a t i o n . By u s i n g s y n t h e t i c rep lacements o f n a t u r a l p r o d u c t s t h i s fo rmula i s o f v e r y low c o s t b u t l o o k s and per fo rms l i k e a h i g h end p r o d u c t . 1. NF Yel low Beeswax (Kos ter Keunen) 5 . 0 % 2 . S y n t h e t i c C a n d e l i l l a (Kos ter Keunen) 9.9% 3 . O z o k e r i t e 170 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.6% 4 . S y n t h e t i c Carnauba (Kos ter Keunen) 1 . 5 % 5 . Castor O i l (Caschem) 20 * 0% 6. P a r a f f i n O i l (Kydol -Wi tco) 15.3% 7 . E d i b l e Coconut O i l (Cocochem) 32.7% 8 . D&C Red #30 (Warner-Jenkinson) 4.5% 9 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C 8 D) 0.5%

Add 1 , 5 , 8 and 9 i n t o a vesse l l a r g e enough t h a t w i l l a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o be added a f t e r t h e beeswax, c a s t o r o i l and p igments have been mel ted (75C.) and mixed t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many o f t h e v i s i b l e agg lomera t ions . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e agg lomera t ions have been separated, add 2, 3 and 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e tempera ture s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e s y n t h e t i c carnauba. Then t h e remainder of t h e components can be added and mixed a t a temp- e r a t u r e o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous use a shear mixer a t low speed f o r 45 t o 60 minutes, m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r tempera ture .

appearance o r per formance. Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d . SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formulat ions

S l i g h t changes i n o i l s and waxes w i l l n o t a l t e r t h e p r o d u c t s

70 Cosmetic and Toilehy Formulations

Lipstick

Dermacryl LT p r o v i d e s i nc reased m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e and water r e s i s t a n c e .

I n q r e d i e n t s : %m Phase A : Eutanol G 6.00 P r i s o r i ne 351 5 20.00 Ceraphyl I C A 2 .70 Cera1 an 5.00 Dermacryl LT 2 .00

Phase B: F l u i l a n 10.00 Candel i 11 a Wax 12.00 O z o k e r i t e Wax 5 .00 C u t i n a LM 10.00 Drakeol 35 5.00 Tenox BHA 0 .10 Propy lparaben 0 . 2 0

Phase C: DC Red #6 ( D i s p e r s i o n i n Castor O i l ) 15.00 F1 amenco Superpear l 5.00

Phase D: Vi tamin E Ace ta te 1 .oo V i tam in E P a l m i t a t e 1 . o o

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Dermacryl LT, mix u n t i l complete. Combine Phase B, heat t o 80C. Add Phase B t o Phase A a t 8OC, mix t h o r o u g h l y . Phase C: Mix pigments t o g e t h e r , add t o A and B a t 80C. Cool t o 80C. Add Phase D, mix t h o r o u g h l y . Pour i n t o molds and c o o l t o room tempera ture .

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Formula 7661-1448

Combine Phase A, except Dermacryl LT. Heat t o 80C. With good

Beauty Aids 71

Lipstick

A . S o f t i san 645 Dynacer i n 660 S o f t i s a n 100 M i g l y o l 812 Beeswax Eutano l G P r o s o l a l S9 PCL l i q u i d P r o t e g i n X

6 . Carnauba wax Castor o i l Hexylene g l y c o l S t e a r i c a c i d T i m i r on S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 Perfume o i l Tendresse

D . Co lou rs : P ink : Sicornet Rot P 15630 CA Red: Sicomet Rot P 15630 CA V i o l e t : Sicornet V i o l e t t P 77007 G

Wt% 1 0 . 0 8 . 0 7 .0 7 . 0

11.0 9 . 0 5.0 5 . 0 4 .0

9 . 0 6 . 0 3 . 0 2.0

1 0 . 0 1 . o

qs 0 . 5 3 . 0 0 . 5

P r e p a r a t i o n : A l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e heated t o 75C and homogenised w i t h a

h i g h speed s t i r r e r . The m i x i s poured i n t o moulds b e f o r e i t has go t c o l d .

Lip-Gloss

A . S o f t i s a n 645 S o f t i s a n 649 Rewopal P I B 1000 Lanf r a x Candel i 1 1 a wax

B. Pear l l u s t r e pigment* Co lour Perfume

Wt% 44.5 10.0 3 0 . 0 1 0 . 0 2 . 5

3 . 0 qs qs

*T im i ron S t a r l u s t r e MP 115

P r e p a r a t i o n :

i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. are mixed t o g e t h e r and added t o A . F i n a l l y , t h e m i x i s homogenised.

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

A . i s me l ted a t 60C and s t i r r e d u n t i l coo led down t o 4 0 C . The

72 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lipstick

M i g l y o l Gel 0 M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 S o f t i g e n 701 P a r a f f i n o i l I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e Cas to r o i l Eutanol HD Carnauba wax Wool wax a l c o h o l Beeswax I m w i t o r 900 Oxynex 2004 Perfume o i l GC 10776 T a l c T i t a n i um d i o x i d e Z i n c o x i d e T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 Flame Orange 5305 No. 5 C.11994 L o M i c r o n Tan 3088 C . 11997

w t % 10.0

7 .0 5 . 0 7 . 0 7.0 5 . 0 9 . 0 5 . 0 8 . 0 5 . 0

10.0 4.0 0 . 2 0 0 .28 3 . 0 3 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0 1 . 7 3.0

P r e p a r a t i o n : A. i s mixed, E . i s added and heated t o 75-8OC. D i s f i n e l y

ground w i t h A , t h e b e i n g s t i r r e d i n t o 0 . i n smal l p o r t i o n s . Perfume i s added t o t h e mix and a t 60C. i t i s poured i n t o t h e mould, which i s n o t c o o l e d . The mix i s s e t by s t o r i n g t h e mould one hour i n a r e f r i g e r a t o r .

Lipstick, Glossy W B

A . M i g l y o l Gel 8 20.0 S o f t i s a n 645 15.0 I m w i t o r 780K 6 . 0 M i g l y o l 829 6 . 0 L a n f r a x 10 .0 Beeswax 5 . 0 Candel i 11 a wax 5 . 0 Cas to r o i l 4 . 5 Sodi um s t e a r a t e 1 . o

0 . Rewopal P I 0 1000 15.0 A n t i o x i d a n t s qs

C . Perfume qs D. Sicomet E r y t h r o s i n l a c k E 127 0 . 5

T i m i r o n S t a r l u s t r e MP-115 10.0 P r e p a r a t i o n :

A. and B. a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and heated t o approx. 8 0 C . 0. i s added and t h e mix i s homogenised. Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t approx. 30C.

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

Beauty Aids 73

Lipstick

T h i s r e d l i p s t i c k has a creamy t e x t u r e and i s l o n g wear ing . The l i p s t i c k i s v e r y s t a b l e , a l t h o u g h i t has a h i g h o i l con- c e n t r a t i o n . Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w s f o r h i g h c o l o r a t i o n w i t h o u t l a r g e pigment l o a d and i m p a r t s a s a t i n l i k e f e e l t o t h e l i p s .

Formu 1 a : 1 . Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 2. C a n d e l i l l a (Kos ter Keunen) 3 . O z o k e r i t e 160/164 (Kos ter Keunen) 4 . Carnauba #1 Ye l low ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5 . Castor O i l (Caschem) 6 . P a r a f f i n O i l (Kydol -Wi tco) 7 . O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 8 . Jo joba O i l ( J o j o b a Growers) 9 . V i t a m i n E (Freeman) l O . D & C Red #7 (Warner-Jenkinson) 1 l .Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 2 . T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C & D ) 13.Propyl Paraben ( S u t t o n )

16.70% 3.10% 4.20% 1.20%

43.45% 16.30% 6.20% 1 .OO% 0.50% 4.00% 3.00% 0.25% 0.10%

Procedure: Add 1, 10, 11, and 12 i n t o a vesse l l a r g e enough t h a t w i l l

a l l o w t h e o t h e r components t o be added a f t e r t h e Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax), Orange Wax and p igments have been mel ted (75C) and mixed t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i n t e n t i o n o f b r e a k i n g down as many o f t h e v i s i b l e agg lomera t ions . A f t e r t h e v i s i b l e agg lomera t ions have been separa ted add 2, 3 and 4 t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n w h i l e m i x i n g . I n c r e a s e t h e tempera ture s l i g h t l y i f needed t o m e l t t h e carnauba. Then t h e remainder o f t h e components can be added and mixed a t a tempera ture o f 70C. A f t e r t h e p r o d u c t i s homogeneous, use a shear mixer a t low speed f o r 45 t o 60 minu tes , m a i n t a i n i n g a s i m i l a r tempera ture .

A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Other o i l s n a t u r a l o r s y n t h e t i c can e a s i l y be s u b s t i t u t e d

t o meet t h e f o r m u l a t o r s needs, c o s t , a v a i l a b i l i t y , e t c . w i t h o u t s i g n i f i c a n t l y changing t h e c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . H igher me1 t i n g p o i n t s can e a s i l y be ach ieved w i t h o n l y s l i g h t a l t e r a t i o n s i n wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . B i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e compounds a r e e a s l i y i n c o r p - o r a t e d i n t o t h e fo rmulas . Depending on t h e d e s i r e d c o l o r and t h e b l e n d o f p igments used, t h e r e w i l l be a need f o r smal l i n g r e d i e n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n changes i n t h e fo rmula due t o t h e p i g m e n t ' s e f f e c t on t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e m i x t u r e .

SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

74 Cosmetic and Toiletry FormuZutions

Lipstick

A . Carnauba Wax Candel i 11 a Wax Beeswax Hydrogenated Castor O i l L i q u i d L a n o l i n M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 2-Octy ldodecanol 2-Octy ldodecy l Myr i s t a t e Castor O i l

8 . Pear l Pigment T i t a n i um D i o x i d e Amihope LL Red Oxide o f I r o n Organ ic P i gment (Red)

Procedure: 1 . M ix ( A ) and ( e ) , and d i s s o l v e a t 80C. 2 . Knead them w i t h a r o l l . 3. D i s s o l v e a t 80C. 4. Remove smal l bubb les i n a vacuum, and then p r e s s .

Note: T h i s l i p s t i c k has smooth touch, and spreads w e l l

5 2 . 0 6 .5 5 . 5 2 . 0

16.8 3 .0

15.0 10.0 23.2

4 :5 4 .5 3 . 5 1 . 3 2 . 2

Lipstick Formulae

The a d d i t i o n o f Eldew CL-301 r e s u l t s i n a p r e p a r a t i o n w i t h remarkable s p r e a d a b i l i t y , improved l u s t e r and e x c e l l e n t c o l o r w i t h o u t r e d u c i n g t h e s t r e n g t h .

A Castor O i l Candel i 11 a Carnauba O z o k e r i t e Capry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e Eldew CL-301

B Mica Ye1 low i r o n o x i d e D&C Red #7 Amihope LL

SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

5 55.0

4 .8 2 .0 4.0

15.0 5 .0

7 . 4 2 . 2 3.0 1 . 6

BeautyAids 75

Liquid Foundation

P a r t A : Hydroxypropyl Methy l C e l l u l o s e Magnabri t e Water T a l c

P a r t 0 : Cetea re th 15 Propylene G1 y c o l G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e C e t y l A l coho l I s o s t e a r i c A c i d C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

P a r t C : T i t a n i um D i o x i d e I r o n Oxides

P a r t D : Germaben I 1

Weight% 0 . 4 0 . 4

56.26 3 .00

5 .00 5 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 6 .00

6.00 0 . 9 4

1 . o o

Procedure:

and s i f t i n t o v o r t e x o f water w i t h maximum shear . When d i spe rsed , add t a l c . Heat t o 80C. Add o i l phase, s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e and i r o n o x i d e s . M i l l t o d i s p e r s e p igments. Add D . Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o 32C.

Blend t o g e t h e r Magnabr i te and hyd roxyp ropy l methy l c e l l u l o s e

Powder Foundation

T a l c T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e S e r i c i t e S p h e r i c a l s i 1 i c a P o l y t e t r a f l u o r o e t h y l e n e powder Red i r o n o x i d e Ye l l ow i r o n o x i d e B1 ack i r o n o x i d e D i m e t h y l p o l y s i loxane C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 S o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e P r e s e r v a t i v e Fragrance

1 7 . 0 % 1 0 . 0 40.0 1 0 . 0 1 0 . 0 0 . 5 1 . 0 0 . 1 1 . o 9 . 0 1 . o 0 . 3 0 . 1

SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

76 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Make-Up

T h i s f o r m u l a demonstrates t h e s t a b i l i t y , d i s p e r s i v e q u a l i t i e s and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a i n a h i g h pigment load, v e g e t a b l e o i l and hydrocarbon o i l f r e e p r o d u c t . The produc t i s q u i c k d r y i n g on t h e s k i n l e a v i n g a s o f t v e l v e t l i k e f e e l , f o r a f l a w l e s s , l o n g wear ing n a t u r a l l o o k .

O i l Phase: I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) S i l i c o n e O i 1 556 (Dow) Ceres ine Wax 130/135 (Kos ter Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Wi tco) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) PEG-1 00 S t e a r a t e ( L i po) Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 1 l e d ) Sodium Hydrox ide ( A l d r i c h ) C i t r i c A c i d ( A l d r i c h ) Bermocal l E230 ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Pigment Phase: T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e ( W h i t t a k e r C&D) I r o n Oxide Ye l low 7055 (Warner-Jenkinson) I r o n Oxide Brown 7058 (Warner-Jenkinson) Mica (Rona) I r o n Oxide Red 7067 (Warner-Jenkinson)

14.50% 6.00% 4 .50% 1.50% 0.80% 0.70% 0.50% 0.30% 0 * 20%

51 -05% 0 60% 0 .50% 0.20% 0.20%

13.50% 2.70% 1.20% 1.00% 0 .50%

Procedure: M e l t o i l phase t o a maximum o f 75C and mix, making s u r e a l l

i n g r e d i e n t s a r e mel ted . I n a s e p a r a t e vesse l d i s s o l v e t h e comp- onents o f t h e water phase. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e tempera ture o f 75C f o r approx imate ly 15 m i n u t e s . A l l o w t o c o o l s l o w l y . When t h e tempera ture i s 55 t o 60C, add t h e pigment phase under h i g h shear .

A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s of water ( i n c r e a s e ) and s o l i d s

(decrease) by smal l amounts w i l l c o n t r o l t h e v i s c o s i t y . A v a r i e t y o f p igments can be s u b s t i t u t e d t o s u i t p r o d u c t s needs.

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Beauty Aids 77

Liquid Makeup M a t e r i a l s : 1 . T a l c 1623 2 . 328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e CTFA

% bv Wei q h t 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0

3 . C o l o r No. 3170 Pur Oxy Ye l l ow B.C. 0 . 4 0 4 . C o l o r No. 3315 Pur Oxy Umber B . C . 0 .20 5 . C o l o r No. 2511 Lo-Micron P i n k B . C . 0 . 4 0 6 . Water ( d e i o n i z e d ) 79.95 7 . Methy lparaben 0 .25 8 . Propy lene G l y c o l 5 . 0 0 9 . Cerasynt 840 2.00 10.Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1 . 5 0 11.Perfume 0 . 3 0 Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t 1 - I n a powder b l e n d e r , add i t e m s 1 th rough 5 and mix

t o g e t h e r f o r 20 m inu tes . Remove powder f rom b l e n d e r and p u t t h rough a m i c r o p u l v e r i z e r .

heat t o 65C. Us ing a homomixer a t medium speed, add and m ix i n i t e m 10. Con t inue m i x i n g f o r 20 t o 30 minutes u n t i l comp le te l y d i spersed.

2 . P a r t 2-Add i t ems 6 th rough 9 t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l vesse l and

3 . Cool P a r t 2 t o 40C and add and mix i n i tern 11. 4 . W i t h con t inuous m i x i n g a t medium speed, add P a r t 1 t o P a r t 2

and mix t o g e t h e r f o r 15 m inu tes . 5 . Put e n t i r e m i x t u r e th rough a c o l l o i d m i l l f o r u n i f o r m pigment

g r i n d i n g . Formula TS-116

Silky Facial MaskM a t e r i a l s : % bv Weight P a r t A : 1 . D . I . Water 76.3 2 . Propy lene G l y c o l 5 . 0 3. M i r a n o l 2MHT Modi f i e d 3 . 0 4 . Methy l Paraben 0 . 1 P a r t B : 5 . P a r i c i n 9 2 . 0 6 . I s o p r o p y l a n 50 4 . 0 7 . P ropy l Paraben 0 . 1 P a r t C : 8 . Bentone MA Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e 4 . 0 9 . Z i n c Oxide 3 . 0 10.328 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 2.5 Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t e m s 1 th rough 4 i n t o a s t a i n l e e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d

k e t t l e . Heat P a r t A t o 6%. 2 . I n a separa te vesse l , add i t e m s 5 th rough 7 and hea t t o 6 5 C .

Mix u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y me l ted and homogeneous. 3 . M ix P a r t B s l o w l y i n t o P a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g . M i x f o r 15 t o 20

m i n . , and b r i n g tempera tu re down t o 55C w h i l e m i x i n g . 4 . M i x P a r t C s e p a r a t e l y u s i n g a homomixer and add t o above

m i x t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix i t f o r 15 m inu tes . M a i n t a i n tempera tu re and pass th rough C o l l o i d M i l l .

Formula TS-252 SOURCE: Rhone Poulenc I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

78 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lotion Scrub P a r t A: W X 4 Water 36.2 A l o e Vera Gel 1 . o Germaben I 1 1 . 8 Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e ( 1 ) 1 . o P a r t B: G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ( 2 ) 5 . 0 S a f f 1 ower O i 1 0 .5 Sesame O i l 0 . 5 Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (3) 0 . 5 P a r t C : Sodium L a u r y l E t h e r S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 2 0 . 0 Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 4 ) 18 .0 Cocamide DEA ( 5 ) 0 . 5 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( 6 ) 5 . 0 P a r t D: Acuscrub 44 10 .0 Procedure:

S l o w l y add t h i c k e n e r ( 2 ) w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Heat t o 70C. S e p a r a t e l y combine P a r t B and P a r t C i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add t o P a r t A, m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s . A t 50C, modera te l y add Acuscrub 44 and s t i r u n t i l smooth & u n i - f o r m .

1 . Veegum 2 . Emerest 2350 3 . Methocel 40-100 4. S ipon ES, S ipon LCP 5 . N i n o l 49-CE 6 . Lexaine C

Lotion Hand Scrub

P a r t A : Sodi um C14-16 01 e f i n Sul f o n a t e ( 1 ) 30.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (2) 6 . 7 Cocamide DEA ( 3 ) 2 . 0 G1 y c o l S t e a r a t e I . o Ammoni um Chl o r i de 2 . 5 Germaben I 1 0 . 8 Water 5 0 . 0 P a r t 8 : Hyd ro l yzed Animal P r o t e i n ( 4 ) 2 . 0 P a r t C : Acuscrub 44 5 . 0 Procedure:

Heat wa te r t o 70C, t h e n s l o w l y add rema in ing P a r t A i n g r e d - i e n t s . Cool t o 55C, add P a r t 0 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add P a r t C w i t h a g i t a t i o n and m ix u n t i l homogeneous.

( 1 ) W i t cona te AOS ( 3 ) N i n o l 49-CE (2) Lexa ine C (4 ) C r o t e i n SPA

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Beauty Aids 79

Low Cost, Extended Wear Lipstick

R e s u l t i n g l i p s t i c k has e x c e p t i o n a l sh ine , adherence and wear a t t r i b u t e s . When a p p l i e d t o l i p s , t h e f o r m u l a produces a comfo r tab le non-waxy f i l m , wh ich r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and f e a t h e r i n g . The shade o f t h i s fo rmu la i s a c lean , t r u e , h i g h chroma r e d w i t h moderate o p a c i t y .

Cas tor O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0) C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Ye l l ow 73) M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18) Beeswax (S&P Whi te NF 422P) Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300) Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) Buty lparaben (Lexgard B)

D&C Red No. 6 Bar ium Lake, C I #15850:2 (C19-012) D&C Red No. 7 Calc ium Lake, C I #15850:1 (C19-011) FD&C Ye l l ow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, C I #19140:1

Castor O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) (C65-4429)

w 61.66

8 .30 2.05 4.20 1 . 8 7 0.12 0 . 0 8 0 .05

1 .38 0 .97

2.74 11 -88

C . G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 9OC. M ix s l o w l y (be s u r e n o t

t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e phase i s c l e a r and homogeneous, t h e n reduce tempera ture t o 80 t o 85C. Cont inue s low m i x i n g .

2. D ispe rse p igments i n s e c t i o n "B'l i n t h e c a s t o r o i l c o n t a i n - ed i n Phase "Btr by add ing t h e d r y pigments t o t h e c a s t o r o i l and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , t h e n d i s p e r s e u s i n g a Cowles d i s s o l v e r and f i n a l l y pass t h e b l e n d th rough a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l t h r e e t i m e s or u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e p igments a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge.

3 . When s e c t i o n "B" i s adequate1 y d i spersed, add s e c t i o n "B" t o s e c t i o n " A " . Cont inue s low a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a tempera ture o f 80 t o 85C.

4. When s e c t i o n s "AB" i s homogenous add s e c t i o n "C" t o "AB". M a i n t a i n a tempera ture o f 80 t o 85C and mix s l o w l y u n t i l homogeneous.

(Lexorez 100) 4.70

5 . Mold s t i c k s a t 80-85C.

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical CO. : Fo rmu la t i on 398-152-1

80 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Low Cost Lipstick R e s u l t i n g l i p s t i c k i s a low c o s t f o r m u l a t i o n t h a t exh b i t s

good a p p l i c a t i o n c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s and i s c o m f o r t a b l e on 1 p s . W e a r a b i l i t y o f t h e l i p s t i c k i s l i m i t e d . F e a t h e r i n g and rn g r a t i o n o f t h e l i p s t i c k f i l m would be expected. The shade of t h i s f o r m u l a i s a c l e a n , t r u e , h i g h chroma r e d w i t h moderate o p a c i t y .

%w/w A . Cas tor O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0) 66.36

C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) 8.30 Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Ye l low 73) 2.05 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18) 4.20 Beeswax (S&P White NF 422P) 1 . 8 7 Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300) 0.12 Propylparaben (Lexgard P ) 0 . 0 8 Buty lparaben (Lexgard 8) 0.05

8. D&C Red No. 6 Bar ium Lake, C I #15850:2 (C19-012) 1 . 3 8 D&C Red No. 7 Calc ium Lake, C I #15850:1 (C19-011) 0.97 FD&C Y e l l o w No. 5 Aluminum Lake, C I #19140:1

(C65-4429) 2 .74 Castor O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) 11 - 8 8

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " h e a t i n g t o QOC. Mix s l o w l y (be sure

n o t t o e n t r a p a i r ) u n t i l t h e phase i s c l e a r and homogeneous, t h a n reduce tempera ture t o 80 t o 85C. Cont inue s low m i x i n g .

2 . D isperse p igments i n s e c t i o n "8" i n t h e c a s t o r o i l c o n t a i n e d i n phase "0" by adding t h e d r y p igments t o t h e c a s t o r o i l and b l e n d i n g w i t h a s p a t u l a , then d i s p e r s e u s i n g a Cowles d i s s o l v e r and f i n a l l y pass t h e b l e n d t h r o u g h a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l t h r e e t i m e s o r u n t i l t h e p a r t i c l e s i z e o f t h e p igments a r e l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge.

3 . When s e c t i o n "B" i s adequate ly d i s p e r s e d , add s e c t i o n "6" t o s e c t i o n " A " . Cont inue s low a g i t a t i o n and m a i n t a i n a tempera- t u r e o f 80 t o 85C.

4 . Mold s t i c k s a t 80-85C. Formula 398-152-2

Lip Balm R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a p r o t e c t i v e l i p balm t h a t e x h i b i t s

extended wear. c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s due t o Lexorez 100. The p r o d u c t c o u l d be p o s i t i o n e d as an over t h e c o u n t e r (OTC) pharmaceut ica l s k i n p r o t e c t a n t w i t h p e t r o l a t u m as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t , and as a sunscreen, w i t h o c t y l methoxycinnamate as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t

%Jy.& O c t y l Methoxycinnamate ( E s c a l o l 557) 10 .00 P e t r o l a t u m USP (Super Whi te) 20 .00 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer

(Lexorez 100) 10.00 P e t r o l a t u m (and) Lanol i n A lcoho l (Lexate PX) 49.00 C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) 8 .00 Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Y e l l o w 73) 3.00 Procedure: 1 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s and heat t o 80C. 2 . M i x u n t i l homogeneous. 3. Cool t o 65C and f i l l i n t o p r o p e l - r e p e l c o n t a i n e r s .

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Go. : Suggested Formula t ions Formula 383-186

BeauvAids 81

Makeup Foundation

T h i s r i c h , e l e g a n t f o u n d a t i o n i n c o r p o r a t e s Geahlene 750 f o r added m o i s t u r i z a t i o n and smooth a p p l i c a t i o n .

I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Dei o n i zed Water Magnesium Aluminum S i l i ca te /Veegum U l t r a Xakthan Gum/Kel t r o l Ny lon- l2 /Orgaso l 2002D N a t u r a l E x t r a Cos Sodi um P C A / A j i dew N-50

Dei o n i zed Water Propy lene G l y c o l Iron Oxides (and) Ta Ic /Lo M i c r o n P i n k I r o n Oxides (and) Ta lc /Lo Mic ron Ye l low I r o n Oxides (and) Ta lc /Lo Mic ron B lack T i t a n i um O i o x i de/3328 T i t a n i um D i o x i d e

G l y c e r y l Stearate/Lexemul 55G S t e a r i c Ac i d/Emersol 132 DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol Methy lparaben (and) Buty lparaben (and)

E thy lparaben (and) Propy lparaben/N ipas ta t I s o s t e a r y l Neopentanoate/Dermol 185 M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/

S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer//Geahlene 750

-

Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 Tocopherol Aceta te /V i tamin E Aceta te

Weight% 46.50 0.80 0 .30 1 . 2 0 1 . o o

10.00 7 .00 0 .40 2 . 0 0 0 .15 5.60

2.00 2.00 2 . 0 0

0 . 2 5 3 . 0 0

15.00 0.70 0 . 1 0

Procedure:

Mix w e l l . Add t h e remain ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , homogenize p a r t B u n t i l smooth. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . Heat t o 8OC. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat p a r t C t o 8OC and mix u n t i l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M ix f o r 30 minu tes u n t i l homogeneous. Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C.

SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

D i sperse Veegum U1 t r a i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed w a t e r .

82 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mascara

A . Veegum pharm Ty lose CB 30000 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Water

B . M i g l y o l Gel B I m w i t o r 780 K Beeswax M i g l y o l 812 Sicomet B lack 80 C . 1

C . Morpho1 i ne Colophonium L u v i s k o l VA 64 Ethano l 96% Prese rva t i ve

P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n a r e d i e n t s o f A

77499

Wt% 2 . 0 0 . 1 1 . 5

6 3 . 0

1 0 . 4 3 . 0 5 . 0 2 .0 4 .0

0 . 4 1 .5

5 . 0 qs

,2 . 0

a r e b rough t t o g e t h e r and heated t o 75-80C. Those o f B . a r e ’ b r o u g h t t o t h e same tempera ture and

n A . and 8 . a t approx . 3 0 C . homogenised. A . i s e m u l s i f i e d i n B .

C . i s d i s s o l v e d and e m u l s i f i e d

A .

B.

C .

Eyebrow Pencil, Heat Stable

S o f t i s a n 100 S o f t i s a n 378 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i s a n 645 S o f t i s a n 154 Beeswax

T a l c T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e Z i n c o x i d e Sicomet B lack 80 C . 1

Perfume

77499

WtS/o 1 6 . 0

8 . 0 8 .0 3 .0 2 .0 3 . 0

20.0 18 .0 18 .0

5 . 0

qs

Prepara t i on : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e v e r y f i n e l y ground. The f a t s A .

a r e me l ted and s t i r r e d s l o w l y i n t o t h e p igments , Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t around 3 0 C . T h i s i s f o l l o w e d by p o u r i n g i n t o moulds o r e x t r u s i o n .

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

Beaury Aids 83

Moisture Stick Base

M i n e r a l O i 1 80/90 V i sc. Ross Wax 26-1152 Ross Wax 15-1 182 Ross Wax 1824 Jo joba O i l Amer la te P V i t a m i n E

% 47 .0 2 8 . 0

2.0 1 0 . 0

2 . 0 10.0

1 . o

Procedure: M e l t a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r i n a k e t t l e t o 170F under

a g i t a t i o n . When mixed t h o r o u g h l y pour i n t o molds. Capping may be necessary.

Cream Rouge Formula

P a r t A : Ross R e f i n e d #1 Ye l low Carnauba Wax Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W M i n e r a l O i l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e

P a r t B: T a l c T i t a n i um D i o x i d e C o l o r

% 6 .0

1 0 . 0 2 4 . 0 27.0

10.0 2 0 . 0

3 . 0

Procedure:

t h r e e r o l l m i l l . M e l t P a r t A t o 70C. When c o o l e d r u n t o g e t h e r w i t h P a r t 0 on a

Pot Eyeshadow

I n q r e d i e n t s : M i n e r a l O i l 70/80 P e t r o l a t u m Ross O z o k e r i t e Wax 77W Ross Ref i ned Candel i 11 a L i g h t F1 akes Pigment Paste P r e s e r v a t i v e

% 40.0 15.0 20.0

4 . 0 20.0

1 . o

Procedure: G r i n d c o l o r w i t h o i l and p e t r o l a t u m i n r o l l e r m i l l . Heat

waxes u n t i l m e l t e d and add pigment p a s t e . M a i n t a i n 85C f o r 30 minutes w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Pour i n t o molds.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

84 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Liposomal Gel

I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 A) Cremophor RH 410 2 Fragrance: PCV 1454

3 B ) 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Water demi n e r a l i zed G l y c e r i n N i pag i n

P h y t a l u r o n a t e F i t o b r o s i de A1 1 a n t o i n Carbopol 941 T r i e thanolami ne

Euxy l K-200

% w/w 5,00 0,10

81,50 2,00 0,15 0,30 5,00 5,00 0,30 0,30 0,35

Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m 2 i n i t e m 1 . D i s s o l v e i tems 4-9 i n water ( 3 ) . Under s t i r r i n g , s l o w l y add phase B ) t o phase A ) . For t h i c k e n -

i n g , i n c o r p o r a t e and d i s s o l v e i t e m 10. A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t e m 11 t o 7 . 0 . A t u r b i d , f l u i d s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 018.A/02.93

Skin Tightening Gel

I na r ed i e n t s : 1 A) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 2 Phenoni p

4 Glucam E-10

5 B ) Carbopol 940 6 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

7 C ) Pentacare HP

Procedure:

3 Euxy l K-200

D i s s o l v e i t e m s 2-4 i n water ( 1 ) . S t i r f a s t and i n c o r p o r a t e i t e m 5. N e u t r a l i z e and t h i c k e n i t e m 6. S l o w l y add i t e m 7.

A p p l i c a t i o n No. D 032.0/06.93

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested Formula t ions

% w / w 87 I 95

0;30 0,20 5,00

0,75 0,80

5,00

Beauty Aids 85

Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation

( A ) P h o s p h o l i p i d SV 0 . 5 % Kelzan AR i n 1% NaCl Propy lene G1 y c o l Pigment (9/12 White/Brown) S tea re th -20 Methy l Paraben

(B) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Hexyl Lau ra te S tea re th -2 Dow F l u i d 200/100 c s . P ropy l Paraben

% BY Weiaht 3 . 0

64 .5 8 . 0

1 5 . 0 1 . 6 0 .25

2 . 0 2 . 0 2 . 4 1 . o 0 . 2 5

Procedure:

55C. B lend phase B i n t o phase A w i t h s u f f i c i e n t homogenizat ion t o ensure good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 40C, add f r a g r a n c e , and package.

Comments: T h i s l i q u i d f o u n d a t i o n i s enhanced by t h e presence o f Phos-

p h o l i p i d EFA which a i d s i n b i n d i n g t h e pigment t o s k i n f o r a l o n g e r l a s t i n g a p p l i c a t i o n . F u r t h e r b e n e f i t s o b t a i n e d by u s i n g Phosphol i p i d EFA i n c l ude a smooth, non-chal ky app l i c a t i o n and a non-d ry ing a f t e r f e e l on t h e s k i n .

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phases A and B as shown and hea t t o

Skin Cleanser

Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e ( 1 mole 25%) Monamate LNT-40 Monamid 716 Phosphol i p i d PTC Water Sodi um C h l o r i d e

% By Weiaht 28.00 1 2 . 5 0

3 . 0 0 2.50

52.75 1 .25

Procedure:

A d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as r e q u i r e d . Package.

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

B lend i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d a t room tempera tu re .

Appearance: C l e a r l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y : Approx ima te l y 3 , 0 0 0 cps

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

86 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Milk with High Electrolyte Content

I n a r e d i e n t s : A A r l a t o n e 985

B r i j 721 M ine ra l o i l Capry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e s

B Propy lene g l y c o l Urea Sodium c h l o r i d e Water

s/ow/w 4.00 2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 .00

3.80 10.00

5.00 65.20

C * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume

* q q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat (A) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S low ly add (B) t o (A)

s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e . Remove f rom t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o coo l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and coo l t o 30C. Package.

W/O Hydrating Body Milk

I n a r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 1689

Ar lamol HD Ar lamol M812 Ar lamol DOA P a r a f f i n o i l

B G l y c e r o l MgS04.7H20 * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

%w/w 3 . 5 0 8 .00 4.00 4 .00 5 . 5 0

4 . 0 0 0.50

70.35

C Perfume 0 .15

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m inu te . A l l o w t o coo l t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S low ly add (B ) t o (A)

Beauty Aids 87

Nail Polish Remover

E t h y l a c e t a t e B u t y l a c e t a t e D r i v e r o n S D i o n i l OC/K So lven t APV B u t y l t r i gl y c o l

WtO/o 2 5 . 0 2 5 . 0 2 3 . 0 1 0 . 0 1 0 . 0

7 . 0

Prepara t i on :

s t i r r e d u n t i 1 homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added t o each o t h e r i n sequence and

Nail Polish Remover

E t h y l a c e t a t e V e s t i n o l C E t h y l t r i g l y c o l Cas tor o i l P a r a f f i n o i l

Wt% 5 0 . 0 28.0 1 0 . 0 1 0 . 0

2 . 0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous.

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

The i n g r e d i e n t s a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

88 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Non-Feathering Extended Wear Lipstick

o r t a b l e non-waxy f i ng. Droop p o i n t o f

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a moldab le l i p s t i c k w i t h e x c e p t i o n a l sh ine , a p p l i c a t i o n and extended wea a t t r i b u t e s . When a p l i e d

m , he

t o l i p s , t h e fo rmu la produces a corn wh ich r e s i s t s m i g r a t i o n and f e a t h e r s t i c k i s above 43C.

QS t o A . Cas tor O i l ( C r y s t a l 0) C a n d e l i l l a Wax (S&P 75) Carnauba Wax (S&P #1 Ye l l ow 73) M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax (S&P 18)

100 8 .23 2 .07 4.19

Beeswax- (S&P Wh i te NF-422P) 1 .08 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 1.09 P e t r o l a t u m (and) L a n o l i n A l coho l (Lexa te PX) 2.01 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 1.08 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l EHS) 2.06 Propy lene G l y c o l D i c r a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (Lexo l PG-865) 1 .06 S i l i c a (Cab-0-Si1 M-5) 0 .13

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .08 B u t y l paraben (Lexgard B) 0.05 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer

(Lexorez 100) 4.77

Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300) 0 .12

B . Pigments 5.00-1'3.00

Procedure: 1 . Combine s u f f i c i e n t c a s t o r o i l f r om s e c t i o n "A" w i t h p igments

2 . D i spe rse p igments i n s t e p number 1, f i r s t w i t h a Cowles

i n s e c t i o n lfB't i n a r a t i o o f app rox ima te l y 2 p a r t s c a s t o r o i l t o 1 p a r t p igments .

d i s s o l v e r , t h e n reduce t h e pigment p a r t i c l e s i z e t o l e s s t h a n number 7 on a Haggeman gauge by pass ing t h e d i s p e r s i o n th rough a t h r e e r o l l e r m i l l .

3 . Combine t h e ba lance o f i n g r e d i e n t s i n s e c t i o n "A" , h e a t i n g

4. Beg in a g i t a t i o n as soon as waxes b e g i n t o m e l t . A g i t a t e s l o w l y . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r .

5. When s e c t i o n "A" i s homogeneous and a t 85-90C, add s e c t i o n "Bll t o s e c t i o n " A " .

6. Pour i n t o molds a t 80-85C.

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: Formula 398-62-2

t o 85-9OC.

Beauty Aids 89

Oil/Water Matte Cream Makeup

Ingr ed i en t s : A Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e

Sodium c a r b o x y m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Water, d e i on i zed

B D i s p e r s i n g agent Propy lene g l y c o l Water

C T a l c K a o l i n T i t a n i um d i o x i d e

D I r o n o x i d e s I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e

2.60 0.40

42.40

0 .30 5.00

12.30

18.50 1.30 3.70

1 . 5 0 5 . 0 0

E A r l a c e l 20 and Tween 20 3 . 0 0

F S t e a r y l a l c o h o l and Amer ichol 4 .00

Procedure:

u n t i l smooth. M i c r o p u l v e r i z e (C) and add t o ( B ) . M i l l t o o b t a i n a smooth p a s t e . Add (8-C) t o (A) and heat t o 65C. Heat (D,E,F) t o 70C and add t o (A,B,C) b l e n d . Mix u n t i 1 c o o l .

B lend d r y i n g r e d i e n t s o f ( A ) and add t o water s l o w l y a g i t a t i n g

Lip Balm

I n s r e d i e n t s : w A S y n t h e t i c Spermacet i 10 .00

P e t r o l a t u m 40 I 00 G1 y c e r o l monostearate 26.00 Capry l i c/Capr i c T r i g l y c e r i d e , Neobee M-5 13.60 Squalane, Robane 10.00

B A l l a n t o i n Lemon o i l , USP Menthol

0.20 0 . 1 0 0 . 1 0

Procedure:

Pour i n molds.

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

M e l t ( A ) u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add ( 6 ) and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous.

90 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil-In-Water Milk Emulsion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a t o n e 985

B r i j 721 Capry l i c /cap r i c t r i g 1 y c e r i des Ar lamol HD

B Propy lene g l y c o l G-2330 Water

C * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

o/ow/w 4.00 2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 5 .00

1 . 2 5 1 .25

81.50

Procedure:

s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e when emuls ion reaches approx ima te l y 40C. Add (C) below 35C. F o r m u l a t i o n F41-3-2

Heat (A) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( 8 ) t o ( A )

Oil-In-Water Milk Emulsion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a t o n e 985

B r i j 721 Ar lamol S 7 M i n e r a l o i l

B G-2330 Water

%w/w 4.00 2 . 0 0 6 . 0 0 5 . 0 0

4.00 79.00

C * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat ( A ) and (B) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add (B) t o (A)

s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e . Remove f rom t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o coo l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and c o o l t o 30C. Package. Formula F44-6-4

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Beauty Ai& 91

One Coat Mascara

T h i s i s a l o n g wearing, n o n - f l a k i n g mascara wh ich c o a t s t h e l ashes even ly i n one c o a t . The f o r m u l a t i o n separa tes l ashes e a s i l y d u r i n g a p p l i c a t i o n and does n o t clump. The f o r m u l a t i o n does n o t f l a k e d u r i n g wear and has t h e a d d i t i o n a l b e n e f i t o f washing o f f e a s i l y w i t h o u t t h e need f o r t h e use o f s p e c i a l eye make-up removers o r harsh sc rubb ing .

%w/w A . De ion ized Water 57.70

Col l o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e (Veegum HV) 1.80 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (QP-15,000-H) 2.70

Pigment (Pur Oxy Ye l l ow BC and Pur Oxy B lack BC) 8.95 Methylparaben (Lexgard M) 0.18

Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) 4.45

Propy lparaben (Lexgard P ) 0.09

8 . PVP/VA Copolymer ( L u v i s k o l 73W) I m i dazol i d i n y l Urea (Germal l 11 5 ) Te t rasod ium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)

10.00 0 .20 0.08

C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2 . 0 0 Beeswax NF (S&P Whi te NF 422P) 4.75 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.50 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer

(Lexorez 100) 3 . 5 0 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e NF ( A r l a c e l 60) 0.10

Procedure: 1 . Combine "A" except f o r t h e pigments and hea t t o 80-85C.

When tempera ture i s reached, homogenize m i x t u r e s l o w l y add ing p i gments.

2 . Combine l'C1' and heat t o 80-85C. S low ly add t o "A" . 3 . M ix "AC" f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add r lBr l t o "AC" and homogenize

f o r f i f t e e n minu tes on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g . 4. A t 60C t r a n s f e r ba tch t o t a n k equipped w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n

side-sweep a g i t a t o r . Mix and coo l t o room tempera ture . 5. A d j u s t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 59.1+-0.1%. S o l i d s were r u n i n a l l O C

oven f o r one hour .

SOURCE: Inolex Chemical Co. : Formu la t i on 383-185

92 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

o f h e a l t h y p r o v i d e mo

Overnight Facial Moisturizer

A power fu l m o i s t u r i z e r des igned t o r e s t o r e t h e normal s t a t e s k i n . The h i g h s u b s t a n t i v i t y towards s k i n h e l p s t o s t u r e r e g u l a t i o n .

P a r t A : Phosphol i p

G l y c e r i n Water

P a r t B: Steare th -2

PEG-32 d EFA

C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 C e t y l P a l m i t a t e M y r i s t y 1 Myr i s t a t e I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e D i meth i cone ( 1 OOcS)

% by Weight 4 .00 2.00 2.00

73.00

2.50 4.00 4 . 0 0 4.00 3 .00 1 .50

B lend and hea t b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y t o 70C. Homogenize ( B ) i n t o (A) w i t h c o n t i n u e d hea t f o r an a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e w h i l e a v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n . S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r i n g , o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d and f i l l .

Moisturizing Make-Up Foundation

An e l e g a n t p r o d u c t c o n t a i n i ng Phosphol i p i d EFA which p r o v i d e s smooth f e e l and coverage w h i l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e normal d r y i n g e f f e c t s o f cosmet i c p igments on s k i n .

P a r t A : Phosphol i p i d EFA 0 .5% Kelzan AR i n 0.1% NaCl Pigment Steareth-20 Me thy l Paraben

P a r t 8: I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Hexyl L a u r a t e S tea re th -2 D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (2OOcS) P ropy l Paraben

Oh By Weisht 3 . 0 0

72.50 15.00

1 . 8 0 0 . 2 5

2.00 2.00 2.40 1 . o o 0 . 2 5

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and hea t t o 65C. Homogenize P a r t A t h o r o u g h l y . Add (B) t o (A) and c o n t i n u e t o homogenize. S t i r - c o o l , w i t h min imal a e r a t i o n , t o 40C, t h e n f i l l .

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids 93

O/W Cleansing Milk

I n q r e d i en ts : A A r l a t o n e 985

B r i j 721 Ar lamol HD

B A t l a s G-2330 * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

C Perfume

w 4 . 0 0 2 .00

10.00

3 . 0 0

80.90

0 .10

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m inu te . A l l o w t o cool t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package.

Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S low ly add (B) t o (A)

W/O Cleansing Milk

I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 780

Ar lamol S7 Ar lamol HD

B A r l a s G-2330 MgS04. H20 * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

C Perfume

?g!yy 6.00 6.00

10.00

4 . 0 0 0 .70

73.15

0.15

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Heat (A) and (B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S low ly add ( 8 ) t o (A) Procedure:

s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenize m i x t u r e f o r one m inu te . A1 low t o coo l t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (C) and w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Package.

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

94 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Cleansing Milk

I n g r e d i e n t s : A P a r a f f i n o i l p e r l i q u i d u m

Ar lamol E

B A r l a t o n e 2121 Propy lene g l y c o l G l y c e r o l * P r e s e r v a t i v e

C Water Carbomer 934 (3% w / w mas te rge l )

D *NaOH (10% w / w s o l u t i o n ) t o a d j u s t pH t o 6 .5 -7

E *Perfume

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w 1 5 . 0 0

3 .00

2 .00 1 .25 1 .25

7 2 I 50 5 . 0 0

Procedure: Mix t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t h e water phase a t 80C under moderate

s t i r r i n g u n t i l a homogenous d i s p e r s i o n i s formed. D isperse t h e h y d r o c o l l o i d i n t h e heated water phase a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r - r i n g . Add t h e o i l phase (RT) t o t h e water phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e between 75 and 65C. Energy i n p u t i s r e l a t e d t o f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise aga in i f add ing a d d i t i o n a l i n g r e d i e n t s . e . g . perfume, v i t a m i n s , . . . . . .

Dry Skin Oil with Alcohol

I n g r e d i e n t s : A r l a c e l 186 Ar lamol E E thano l , SDA-40, (190 P r o o f ) Cyclomethicone

%w/w 30.00 30.00 30.00 10.00

Procedure:

warm t h e A r l a c e l 186 t o ach ieve c l a r i t y b e f o r e m i x i n g . Formula CP 1049

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Mix a l l i n g r e d i e n t s w e l l a t room tempera tu re . I f necessary

BeautyAids 95

Petroleum Oil/Petroleum Wax Free Lipstick

T h i s l i p s t i c k i s a creamy s t i c k t h a t d o e s n ' t use any p e t r o l - eum o i l s o r waxes i n t h e f o r m u l a nor does i t use any s y n t h e t i c raw m a t e r i a l s t h a t has pe t ro leum base p r o d u c t s i n i t .

O i l Phase I: 1. Kes ter Wax 100 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2. C a n d e l i l l a (Kos ter Keunen) 3 . Hydroxy P o l y e s t e r (Kos ter Keunen) 4. Hexanedio l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 5. Cocoa B u t t e r 6 . Shea B u t t e r (Kos ter Keunen) 7 . Squalane (Centerchem) 8 . R ice Bran O i l (Kos ter Keunen) 9 . O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l ex) 10.Coconut O i l ( A l n o r ) 11 . V i t a m i n E (BASF) 1 2 . V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 13.Wheat Germ O i l ( L i p o ) 14.Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o ) 1 5 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 1 6 . 0 y s t e r Nut O i l (Kos ter Keunen) 17 .Castor O i l (Caschem) 1 8 . E t h o x y l a t e d Carnauba ( K o s t e r Keunen) 19.0range Wax (Kos ter Keunen) 20.T i02 (WC&D) 21.Z-Cote (Sunsmart) 22. Pigment 23.Beta Glucan 15% Coarse ( K o s t e r Keunen)

6.00 7 .00 3.70 4 . 0 0 3.00 4.50 1.50 4.00 3 .00 5 .50 0.10 0.10 1.50 1.50

15.50 1 . 5 0

20.00 1.30 5.50 2.50 5.00 2 . 8 0 0.50

Procedure: Add 20,21 and 22 t o g e t h e r . To t h e m i x t u r e o f p igments add

17, 18, and 19, heat t i l l e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s p e r s e d . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s except t h e Beta Glucan. The Beta Glucan w i l l be added l a s t t o t h e ba tch , j u s t b e f o r e p o u r i n g i n t o t h e molds.

Adapt ion o f fo rmula and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Wi th t he i n c r e a s e o r decrease of o i l s and/or waxes one c o u l d

c r e a t e a s t i c k t h a t i s c reamier o r h a r d e r .

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

96 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pressed Powder Eye Shadow (Pearlescent Type)

I n G r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) B e n t o n i t e ( N F grade) ( 2 ) Mearl i n-AC ( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC ( 4 ) Z i n c S t e a r a t e ( f i n e ground) ( 5 ) Magnesium Carbonate ( 6 ) Ace to l ( 7 ) Po lyso rba te 20 ( 8 ) Deion ized Water

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure:

"/.by Weight 5 . 0

Dry mix ( l ) , ( 2 ) , ( 3 ) , (4), and ( 5 ) . I n separa te t a n k , t h o r o u g h l y mix ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Then s l o w l y add t h i s mix

3 5 . 0 29 .0

8 . 0 1 . o 3 . 0 9 . 0 0 . 0 q . s

u r e t o t h e d r y m ix . Screen th rough a No. 16 s i e v e and p r e s s .

p roduc t used. Fo l l ow recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each

Face Mask

n a r e d i e n t s : 1 ) De ion ized Water 2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF g rade)

( 3 ) K a o l i n USP ( 4 ) I s o p r o p y l A l coho l ( 5 ) L a n o l i n (PEG 50) ( 6 ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Emerest 2000) ( 7 ) Dimethicone ( D o w Corn ing 200) ( 8 ) Phenoxyethanol (Emmenessence) ( 9 ) Methy l Paraben (10 )Propy l Paraben

% bv Weight 3 6 . 7

8 . 0 4 0 . 0 10.0

0 . 5 1 . 5 1 . 5 1 . 5 0 . 2 0 . 1

Procedure: Add ( 2 ) t o ( 1 ) and heat t o SOC, add ( 9 ) and (10) u n t i l

d i s s o l v e d . Add ( 5 ) , ( 6 ) , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Cool and add ( 4 ) w i t h good m i x i n g u n t i l d i spe rsed . Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e h i g h speed m i x i n g u n t i l comp le te l y u n i f o r m .

each p roduc t used.

f 1 ammable i n g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g

BeautyAids 97

Pressed Powder Eyeshadow

Phase A : T a l c Z inc S t e a r a t e Carmi ne Gemtone Mauve Quar tz Flamenco Super B l u e A n t i m i c r o b i a l

Phase B : A n t i o x i dant Squal ane Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i l

Phase C : Flemenco Super B lue

S/oWt. 40.40

4 . 0 0 2 .00

1 9 . 0 0 12 .60

a . s

q . s . 5 .00 7 . 0 0

1 0 . 0 0

Procedure: Thoroughly b l e n d and d i s p e r s e A . Add B i n t o a suppor t v e s s e l ,

heat and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Spray B i n t o premixed A and c o n t i n u e b l e n d i n g . P u l v e r i z e and r e t u r n t o b l e n d e r . Add C t o A-B and mix u n t i 1 u n i f o r m .

Molded Eye Shadow

Polytetrafluorethylene-treated mica Mica T i tan: urn-di o x i de-coated mica Co lo ran t D imethy l p o l y s i 1 oxane Carna t ion M ine ra l O i 1 G l y c e r y l t r i o c t a n o a t e Fragrance Ethano l

Cosmetic Aerosol Foam

PEG-2 s t e a r y l e t h e r PEG-10 s t e a r y l e t h e r Carna t ion M ine ra l O i 1 I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e Octy ldodecano l C e t y l A1 coho1 Water Propel 1 ant=N20

%Wt. 5 0 . 0 27 .0 1 0 . 0

3 . 0 4 . 0 3.0 3.0 0 . 1

q * s . 100.0

4.50% 1.50 7 . 0 0 7 . 0 0 6 . 5 0 0 . 5 0

qs t o 100.00

SOURCE: W i t co Corp . : Petroleum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

98 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pressed Powder with 1% Eldew

I n g r e d i e n t : T a l c Supra A Ny lon 12 L e c i t h i n T rea ted S e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n T rea ted Mica Lauroy l L y s i ne/Ami hope LL Z i n c S t e a r a t e I s o p r o p y l Lanol a t e Hydroxy la ted Lanol i n I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l Glutamate/

Eldew CL-301 B u t y l S t e a r a t e Germal l I 1 Methylparaben Propy lparaben Cosmetic Brown 3277 Cosmetic Brown 1985 Cosmetic Brown 1654 D & C Red 30 Lake

Pressed Powder with 3% Eldew

I n p r e d i e n t : T a l c Supra A Ny lon 12 Lec i t h i n T rea ted S e r i c i t e L e c i t h i n T rea ted Mica Lauroy l Lysine/Ami hope LL Z i n c S t e a r a t e I s o p r o p y l Lano la te Hydroxy la ted Lanol i n I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l Glutamate/

Eldew CL-301 B u t y l S t e a r a t e Germal l 11 Methylparaben Propy lparaben Cosmetic Brown 3277 Cosmetic Brown 1985 Cosmetic Brown 1654 D & C Red 30 Lake

% bv Weight 53.54 10.00 10.00 10.00 5.00 3.00 2.70 1.50 1.20

1 . oo 0.60 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.34 0.32 0.18 0.02

% bv Weight 52.49 9.80 9.80 9.80 4.90 2.94 2 I 65 1.47 1.18

2.95 0.59 0.29 0.20 0.10 0.33 0.31 0.18 0.02

SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Beaury Aids 99

Prolonged Skin Moisturizer

Emulsion Pha* Spermaceti Beeswax Carna t ion M ine ra l O i l Behenyl a l c o h o l P r e s e r v a t i v e s E l a s t i n h y d r o l y s a t e 1 , 3 b u t y l ene g l y c o l Carboxymethy l ch i t i n Water

L i posome Phase : Soy l e c i t h i n S p h i n g o g l y c o l i p i d s P h y t o s t e r o l G1 y c e r i ne V i t a m i n A

3 .00% 2 .00

15.00 5 .00 0 . 3 0 2 .oo

1 0 . 0 0 0.50

53.20

2 . 0 0 1 . o o 0 .50 5 . 0 0

Skin Lightening Composition

Polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene c e t y l e t h e r 1.00% S i l i c o n e o i l 2 .00 B lando l M i n e r a l O i l 3 . 0 0 Propylene g l y c o l 5 . 0 0 E-Ami nocapro i c a c i d 1 . 0 0 G l y c e r i n 2 . 0 0 E t h y l a l c o h o l 5 .00 Carbomer 0 . 3 0 Hydroxypropy l c e l l u l o s e 0 .10 2-Aminomethylpropanol 0 . 1 0 Asco rb i c a c i d d i s u l f a t e - s o d i u m s a l t 1 . o o P r e s e r v a t i v e , a n t i o x i d a n t , f rag rance q . s . Water q . s . t o 100 .00

Three Layer Facial Moisturizer

Sodium p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l a t e (50%) G1 y c e r i n Po lyoxye thy lene g l y c e r y l monooleate Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1

10.00% 20.00 20.00 50,OO

SOURCE: W i t co Corp. : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

100 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Purifying Clay Face Mask

T h i s p r o d u c t removes imbedded i m p u r i t i e s which smoothes s k i n , c l e a n s pores , b r i n g s a glow and removes d u l l i n g c e l l s f o r a f i n e r t e x t u r e so s k i n has a r a d i a n t g low.

Phase A : Magnabr i te S ( W h i t t a k e r & D) Xanthan Gum (Ke lko) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) G l y c e r i n (Unichema) A loe Vera Gel ( A c t i v e Organ ics) Propy l ene G1 y c o l (Arco) Tween 60 ( G a l l a r d S c h l e s i n g e r ) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Phase 0: E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) C e t y l s t e a r y l A lcoho l (P&G) Kes ter Wax K-48 (Spermacet i , Kos ter Keunen) Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Phase C: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax: Kos ter Keunen) Green Chromium Oxide (Sun Chemical ) T i tan: urn D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D)

Phase D: T i t a n i um D i o x i d e (Whi t t a k e r C&D) Vanclay ( V a n d e r b i l t )

4.5% 0 . 2 %

63.2% 4.0% 0.5% 1 . 5 % 0.6% 0 .5%

5.0% 0 .5% 2.0% 0.5%

4 . 5 % 0.5% 2.0%

4 . 0 % 6.0%

Procedure: Heat and mix t i l l homogeneous, Phase A t o 80C. Heat and mix

Phase 6 t o 80C. Heat and mix Phase C t i l l p igments a r e d i s p e r s e d . Mix Phase 6 w i t h Phase C, add BC t o A a t 80C under a g i t a t i o n . When e m u l s i f i e d , s p r i n k l e a mixed Phase D i n t o ABC and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g t i l l t h o r o u g h l y d ispersed, a l l o w t o c o o l w h i l e m i x i n g . Pour a t 55-60C.

Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Changes i n c l a y c o n c e n t r a t i o n will reduce o r i n c r e a s e d r y i n g

t i m e on t h e s k i n , which a l s o changes t h e r e s p e c t i v e p u r i f y i n g q u a l i t i e s toward t h e s k i n . M o i s t u r i z i n g agents and or o t h e r a c t i v e s can be added t o enhance t h e p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s p r o d u c t .

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Beauty Aids 101

Slenderizing Cream with Green Tea Extract

T h i s s l e n d e r i z i n g cream i n c o r p o r a t e s P h y t ' i o d and I o d o b i o 45. T h i s l i p o l i t i c p r o d u c t develops an e l e c t i v e m e t a b o l i c a c t i o n a t t h e l e v e l o f a d i p o c y t e s t h r o u g h t h e i n h i b i t i o n o f t h e phospho- d i e s t e r a s e . T h i s i n h i b i t i o n b l o c k s t h e d e g r a d a t i o n o f t h e c y c l i c AMP which i s i n d i s p e n s a b l e t o t h e p r o t e i n k i n a s e a c t i v a t i o n . The k i n a s e p r o t e i n s a c t i v a t e t h e l i p a s e which t r i g g e r a degrad- a t i o n o f t h e t r i g l y c e r i d e s i n t h e adipose c e l l i n t h e fo rm of f a t t y a c i d s and g l y c e r o l and t h e n e l m i n a t e d .

I n g r e d i e n t s : A . U n i t i n a KD-16

Eumulgin B-1 Lexol I P M C a r n a t i o n w h i t e m i n e r a l o i 1 Tocopherol T r i s e p t P

B. De ion ized Water T r i s e p t M

C . I v y E x t r a c t Seaweed E x t r a c t Organi c S i 1 i c o n

D . De ion ized Water I o d o b i o 45 Green Tea E x t r a c t

T r i s e p t I U E. Deion ized Water

F. P h y t ' i o d

% 16.00

1 . o o 8.00 6.00 0.01 0 .10

48.49 0 . 2 0 3 . 0 0 2 .00 1 . o o 6.00 2 . 0 0 1 . 0 0 2.00 0.20 3.00

Procedure:

A t o 8 . A t 50C, add phase C . D i s s o l v e I o d o b i o 45 i n w a t e r . A t 40C, add phase D, E and F.

Heat phase A and B t o 75-80C. Under p roper a g i t a t i o n , add

Amidroxy Sugar Cane Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A . C i rami N 1

Jo joba O i l Sunf 1 ower O i 1 T r i s e p t P

8 . De ion ized Water T r i s e p t M

C . Tensami 3/06 D. Tocopherol E . Amidroxy Sugar Cane F. G r a p e f r u i t E s s e n t i a l O i l

% 11.50 10.00 5 .00 0.10

61 - 9 4 0 . 1 5 3 .00 0.01 8 .00 0 .30

Procedure:

p roper a g i t a t i o n . Add phase C . A t 35C-40C add phase D, phase E and phase F. M ix t o room tempera ture . A d j u s t pH t o 3.50.

SOURCE: T R I - K I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Code AMI Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat phase A and phase B t o 70C. Add phase A t o phase B w i t h

102 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Soothing Body GelA c l e a r , v i scous g e l w i t h mic roencapsu la ted V i t a m i n E des igned

t o p r o v i d e s k i n c o n d i t i o n i n g and s o o t h i n g p r o p e r t i e s . I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Weiaht% A M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/

S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer//Geahlene 750 78.82

B Cyclomethicone/Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d 7 .00

B i s a b o l o l , s y n t h e t i c 0.30 Methoxypropanediol/Cooling Agent No. 10 0 .50 Fragrance 0 .15 Menthol 0 . 0 3 Corn O i l (and) R e t i n y l P a l m i t a t e / V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e

Sunf lower O i l (and) Chamomile Ext ract /Chamomi le LS 0 . 5 0

C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate /F inso lv TN 10.00

t y p e PIMO/BH 0 .10

C Macademi a Nut O i 1 /Ref ined Macademi a Nut O i 1 2 .00 Propylparaben 0 .10

D Tocopherol Aceta te (and) Acacia (and) G e l a t i n (and) Mica (and) T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (and) I r o n Oxides/ /Microencapsulated V i t a m i n E HC487 0 .50

Procedure: Premix B. Add B t o A w h i l e m i x i n g a t moderate speed. Heat

C t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add C t o A . M ix u n t i l comple te ly homo- geneous. Add D (pre-washed w i t h anhydrous e t h a n o l ) and g e n t l y mix i n t o A u n t i l u n i f o r m l y d i s p e r s e d . SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Anhydrous Deep Penetrating GelSimple b u t e f f e c t i v e i s a way t o d e s c r i b e t h i s q u i c k pene-

t r a t i n g p r o d u c t . Use o f t h i s g e l w i l l d i m i n i s h t h e s i g n s o f ag ing by c o n d i t i o n i n g and t r e a t i n g t h e s k i n w i t h a n t i - i n f l a m m a - t o r y agents . The a c t i v i t y comes f rom p h y t o s t e r o l s and b i o f l a v - on ides i n orange wax. These c l a s s o f chemica ls a r e a l s o s t r o n g a n t i - o x i d a n t s which w i l l scavenge f r e e r a d i c a l s t h e r e b y p r e v e n t - i ng p o t e n t i a1 premature ag ing . S i l i c o n e O i l 556 56.0% I P P (Unichema) 5.0%

Cera A l b a l a t e 103 ( K o s t e r Keunen) 14.0% Squalane ( P o l y e s t h e r ) 10.0%

A p r i c o t O i l ( A r i s t a ) 2.0% Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 10.0% V i t . A P a l m i t a t e (Roche) 0.5% V i t . E (BASF) 0.5% C a n d e l i l l a Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0% Procedure:

M e l t and mix a l l components t o 70C, c o o l t o 60C and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r . Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e m c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

T r i g l y c e r i d e o i l s can o n l y be use s p a r i n g l y , s i n c e i n c o r p o r - a t i o n a t any s i g n i f i c a n t c o n c e n t r a t i o n w i l l d e s t r o y t h e g e l l i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h e Hydroxy-Hexanyl-Behenyl-Beeswaxate (Cera A l b a l a t e 103) . Cera A l b a l a t e 103 i s a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e g e l l i n g agent f o r v e r y low v i s c o s i t y o i l s , as i s i n d i c a t e d above. SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

BeautyAids 103

Stick Type Lip Gloss

Mater i a1 s : 1 . O z o k e r i t e White 170 2 . C a n d e l i l l a Wax L i g h t Re f ined 3 . Carnauba Wax Ye l l ow USP #1 4 . Ceraphyl 50 5 . Lanogene 6. Ace to l 1706 7 . F l e x r i c i n 9 8 . Bentone Gel CAO 9. Lexol PG 8/10 1 0 . I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 11. Propy l Paraben 12.Tenox 4 13.Pigment Concent ra te* 14 .Fragrance

*Pigment Concent ra te : Cas tor O i l D&C Red #21 Aluminum Lake Cosmetic Brown C-33 115

% by Wei q h t 7 . 5 9 . 5 2 . 5 3 . 0 5 . 0

11 .5 10 .0 27.5 12 .8

5 . 0 0 . 1 0 . 1 5 .0 0 . 5

75.00 15.00 10 .00

Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Weigh i t ems 1 th rough 12 i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d

k e t t l e . Heat t o 85C u n t i l me l ted c l e a r . 2 . B r i n g tempera ture down t o 80C. Add and mix i n i t e m 13 u s i n g

homomixer a t medium speed. M ix f o r 10 minu tes a t 80C. 3 . Cont inue m i x i n g a t medium speed, lower tempera ture t o 70C, and

add i t e m 14. Remove heat and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l congealed, o r pour i n t o t r a y s .

s low a g i t a t i o n ( a v o i d a i r en t rapmen t ) . Note: For a sh iny p o l i s h e d s u r f a c e on t h e l i p - g l o s s , t h e

s t i c k s shou ld be s u r f a c e f lamed.

4 . When c a s t i n g , m e l t and pour mo l ten mass i n t o mold a t 75C w i t h

Pigment Concent ra te P r e p a r a t i o n : 1 . Weigh d r y powder and mix t o t h e c a s t o r o i l u s i n g a s low speed

2 . G ive t h i s c o n c e n t r a t e two passes ove r a 3 r o l l e r m i l l a t room

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Formula TS-286

Hobart t y p e m i x t u r e u n t i l u n i f o r m .

tempera tu re .

104 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Thickening Mascara

T h i s i s a l o n g wear ing, n o n - f l a k i n g and t h i c k e n i n g mascara fo rmula . T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y , separa tes l a s h e s w e l l and does n o t smear o r c lump. The f o r m u l a t i o n does n o t f l a k e d u r i n g wear and has t h e added b e n e f i t o f washing o f f e a s i l y w i t h o u t t h e need o f s p e c i a l eye make-up removers o r harsh s c r u b b i n g .

w A . De ion ized Water 56.95

Col 1 o i d a l Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e (Veegum HV) 1.80 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (QP 15,000-H) 2.70 Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T) 4.45 Pigment (Pur Oxy Ye l low BC and Pur Oxy B lack BC) 8.95 Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.18 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .09

B. PVP/VA Copolymer ( Luv i s k o l 73W) I m i dazol i d i n y l Urea (Germal l 115) Tetrasodium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)

10.00 0.20 0 . 0 8

C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2.25 Beeswax NF (S&P Whi te NF 422P) 5.25 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.50 G1 y c e r i n /Di e t h y l e n e G1 y c o l /Adi p a t e Crosspol ymer

(Lexorez 100) 3.50 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e NF ( A r l a c e l 60 ) 0.10

Procedure: 1 . Combine “A“ except f o r t h e p igments and h e a t t o 80-85C. When

tempera ture i s reached, homogenize m i x t u r e s l o w l y adding p igments.

2 . Combine “C” and heat t o 80-85C. S l o w l y add t o ” A “ . 3 . M i x ”AC” f o r f i v e minu tes . Add lrB” t o ”AC” and homogenize

f o r f i f t e e n minu tes on medium speed w h i l e c o o l i n g . 4 . A t 60C t r a n s f e r b a t c h t o t a n k equipped w i t h a d o u b l e - a c t i o n

side-sweep a g i t a t o r . M i x and c o o l t o room tempera ture . 5. A d j u s t s o l i d s l e v e l t o 53.2%+-0.1%. S o l i d s were r u n i n a

11OC oven f o r one hour .

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co, : F o r m u l a t i o n 383-198

Beauty Aids 105

Thigh Slimming Cream

The f o l l o w i n g fo rmu la i s used f o r deve lop ing t h i g h s l imming and a n t i - c e l l u l i t e creams. The f i n a l f o r m u l a t i o n i s 0.50% Na tu ra l Cocoa E x t r a c t and 0.50% Caf fe ine which a r e encapsu la ted i n u n i l a m e l l a r and m u l t i l a m e l l a r l iposomes. They a r e f o r m u l a t e d t o t a r g e t subcutaneous f a t t i s s u e . A s i m i l a r f o rmu la can u t i 1 i ze ami nophyl i ne as t h e a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t .

I n a r e d i e n t : A . De ion ized Water

Carbopol 940 G l y c e r i n K e l a t e 220 T r i s e p t M Tween 80 Dow Corn ing 2501 Dow Corn ing 193

B . L a n e t t e 16 Kukui Nut O i l Emersol 132 B u t y l S t e a r a t e B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy Toluene Emerest 2717 Lexol I P P Dow Corn ing 200 (50 cps )

C . T r i e thano lamine De ion ized Water

% 69.06

0 .40 1 .50 0 . 1 0 0.20 1 .oo 1 .50 1 .oo 1.25 3.50 2 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0.10 1 .50 1 .oo 1 .oo

0 .80 5.00

D . T r i s t a t I U 0 .25

E . Liposome o f 6% Cocoa E x t r a c t 8, 6% C a f f e i n e Concent ra te 8 .34

Procedure: Using moderate p r o p e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , s p i n k l e Carbopol 940

i n t o Phase A and mix u n t i l f u l l y hyd ra ted . Add rema in ing Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat Phase A and Phase B t o 65C-7OC. Wi th p rop- e l l o r a g i t a t i o n , add Phase B t o Phase A . When u n i f o r m , add Phase C . A t 55C-60C, add Phase D . Add Phase E a t 35C, m i x i n g s l o w l y u n t i 1 u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: TRI-K I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Code Biozone

106 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ultra Rich Hand and Body Nourisher

Veegum U l t r a t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r emuls ion prepared u s i n g a n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i e r system. I t f e a t u r e s t h e " d r y touch" a p p l i c a t i o n p r o p e r t i e s t y p i c a l o f fo rmulas c o n t a i n i n g Veegum. Palmi t o y 1 hyd ro l yzed animal p r o t e i n f u n c t i o n s as an a n t i - i r r i t a n t t h a t complements t h e group o f o i l phase e m o l l i e n t s . Veegum U l t r a wh i tens and b r i g h t e n s t h i s cosmet ic fo rmu la and a d j u s t s t h e pH t o approx imate t h a t o f normal s k i n .

I n a r e d i e n t : % bv W t . Veegum U l t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e ) 1.50 De ion ized Water

G1 y c e r i n A loe Vera Gel (2)

P a l m i t o y l Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n ( 3 ) C e t y l E s t e r s (4) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE ( 5 ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e Po lyso rba te 40

P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance

(2) Veragel L i q u i d (3) L i p a c i d e PCO (4) Crodamol SS ( 5 ) Kessco GMS-24SE

79.00

3 .00 2.00

1 . o o 1 .oo 2 .50 5 . 0 0 2.25 2.75

q . s .

Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 55C. Add Veegum U l t r a s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g

a t 700 rpm w i t h a p r o p e l l e r s t i r r e r . I n c r e a s e m ixe r t o 1500-1700 rpm and mix f o r 30 minu tes w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g tempera ture a t 55C. Add B t o A and m ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat C t o 6OC and add t o ( A and 6 ) . M ix (A ,B and C) f o r 30 m inu tes . Avo id a i r entrapment. Slow m ixe r t o 1000 rpm and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C. Add D and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package.

Produc t C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : V i s c o s i t y : 1900-2500 cps pH: 5 .3+-0 .2

Comments:

t h e development o f new p roduc ts o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R .T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Fo rmu la t i on No. 447

T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s des igned t o se rve as a gu ide f o r

BeautyAids 107

Vegetable Based Moisturizing Cream

I n s r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Super r e f i n e d almond o i l ' ICrodesta" F10 "Syncrowax" HGLC

P a r t 0: 'I H y d r o s o y I' 2 0 0 0 S F ' *Crodesta" F110 So r bo If 7 0

ltGermaben" 11 "Veragel I' 200 De ion ized Water

Percent

20.0 3.0 2.0

1 . o 3.0 5.0 1 . o 0.5

6 4 . 5

Procedure: Combine P a r t A . Heat t o 7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t 0 . Heat t o

7OCt-2C. Combine P a r t B t o P a r t A under a g i t a t i o n . Cool and f i l l o f f .

SOURCE: D r , Madi s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Liquifying Cream Makeup Remover

Penreco M i n e r a l O i l #9 Pet ro la tum A lba Rosswax 60-0254 Ross Ceres ine Wax 1160/7 Beta Carotene 30% Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e

% 51 .E8 32.8 9 . 1 7 .0 0.02 q . s . q . s .

Procedure:

170F w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed c o o l , add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and pack a t about 130F.

SOURCE: Frank 0. Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

M e l t i n g r e d i e n t s one t h r u f o u r i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o

108 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water Resistant Liquid Foundation

The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t f e e l s l i k e a f i n e powder.

?&& A . De ion ized Water 69.25

C o l l o i d a l Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e (Veegum) 1 . o o Xanthan Gum ( K e l t r o l T ) 0.50 Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.20 Propylene G l y c o l NF 5.00 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e NF QS

B. O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l EHS) 8.50 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3 .50 G1 y c e r i n/Di e t h y l e n e G1 y c o l /Adi p a t e Crosspol ymer

(Lexorez 100) 2 . 0 0 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .05

C . T a l c (J-13-AT) I r o n Oxides (AT S e r i e s )

5 5

Procedure: 1 . Combine "A" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Add a l l i n g r e d i e n t s excep

2. Combine "B" and heat t o 80C. Veegum and xanthan gum. Dry b l e n d t h e gums and s i f t i n .

00 00

t h e

3 . Move " A g 3 t o homogenizer. Turn t o a low speed. 4. Add "B" t o "A" , homogenize a t low speed f o r 5 minu tes . Begin

5 . Add "C" t o lfAB",homogenize a t low speed f o r 10 minu tes o r

6. Remove f rom homogenizer and t r a n s f e r t o p r o p e l l e r m i x e r . 7. A t 45-50C a d j u s t pH t o 7.5-7.7 w i t h TEA. A d j u s t f o r water loss Formula 383-188

c o o l i ng . u n t i l p a r t i c l e s a r e d i s p e r s e d .

Lip Gloss

The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a cake l i p g l o s s which c o u l d be h o t poured i n t o a pan o r d i r e c t l y i n t o a SAN compact. The l i p g l o s s a p p l i e s e a s i l y . T h i s p r o d u c t i s v e r y wear r e s i s t a n t and e x h i b i t s a h i g h g l o s s due t o Lexorez 100.

Castor O i l NF ( C r y s t a l 0) 60.90 Beeswax NF (S&P Whi te 422P) 10.00 L a n o l i n Anhydrous 1.30 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 14.80 S t e a r y l S t e a r a t e ( L i p o n a t e SS) 4.30 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer

(Lexorez 100) 8 . 7 0

Procedure: 1. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s , heat t o 75C. Mix s l o w l y so t h a t a i r i s

Formula LP-100 SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: Suggested Formula t ions

n o t ent rapped. 2 . Pour a t 50C.

209

Section V

Creams

110 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

All Purpose Cream

(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( # 7 0 ) Squal ane N i k k o l WCB G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S e l f Emu1 s i f y i ng Type) C e t y l A l coho l Po lyoxye thy lene (20) G l y c e r y l Monostearate S o r b i t a n Monostearate

(W) A j i dew N-50 Sorb i t o 1 (70%) Water P r e s e r v a t i ve

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 5 . 6

All Purpose Cream

( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n ( # 7 0 ) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) C e t y l A l coho l N i k k o l WCB C e t y l A l coho l Tocopherol A c e t a t e A1 1 a n t o i n S o r b i t a n Monostearate Po lyoxye thy lene ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n Monooleate

( W ) A j i d e w N-50 Propylene G l y c o l Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add ( W ) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3. Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 5 . 4

SOURCE: A j i nomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Wt% 1 0 . 0

4 . 0 5 . 0 8 . 0 4.0 2 . 7 1 . 3

2 .0 2 . 0

61 . O q . s .

Wt$b 21.6

8 .0 5 . 0

1 0 . 0 4 . 0 0 .2 0 . 2 2 . 0 3 . 0

3 .0 2.0

45.0 q . s .

Creams 111

All Purpose Cream

(0) Ami te r LGOD Squal ane Spermaceti Propy lene G l y c o l Monostearate Po lyoxye thy lene ( 2 0 ) G l y c e r y l Monosteara te G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S e l f Emul s i f y i ng Type) S o r b i t a n Monostearate

(W) A j idew N-50 Sorb i t o 1 (70%) Sodium Carbonate (10% aq s o l n ) Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and (W) t o 8OC. 2 . Add ( W ) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 5 . 5

Vanishing Cream

(0) S t e a r i c A c i d L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e Hydrogenated L a n o l i n N i k k o l WCB G1 y c e r y l Monostearate (Sel f Emul s i f y i ng Type) Po lyoxye thy lene (20) C e t y l E the r

(W) A j i dew N-50 Propy lene G l y c o l G l y c e r i n T r i e thano l ami ne Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and (W) t o 85-86C. 2. Add ( W ) to (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n 3 . Cool s l o w l y t o 30C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 7 .2

W B 10 .0 9.0 2.0 4.0 3.0

10 .0 1 . 5

3 .0 4 . 0 0 .1

53 .1 0 .3

Wt% 8 .0 3 .0 3.0 2.0 2.0 1 . 3 1 . 7

3 .0 3 . 0 3 .0 0.5

69 .5 q . s .

SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

112 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

All Purpose Dry Skin Cream

Formula: Phase A : G lucquat 100 Dei o n i zed Water

Phase B: G1 ucam P-20 D i s t e a r a t e G luca te DO Promulgen D Acet u 1 an C e t a l Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 C e t y l P a l m i t a t e Perfume and P r e s e r v a t i v e

%Wt.

1.0 8 3 . 0

2 .0 0 . 5 4.5 2 . 0 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o q . s .

Procedure:

w i t h adequate a g i t a t i o n . Combine B i n g r e d i e n t s and hea t t o 80C w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . S low ly add A t o B and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . When m a t e r i a l beg ins t o t h i c k e n d u r i n g c o o l i n g , change t o s low sweep a g i t a t i o n .

D i s s o l v e Glucquat 100 i n t o d e i o n i z e d water and hea t t o 80C

Dry Skin Cream

Water P ro tope t 1s Dry F l o S t a r c h S i l i c o n e 344 F i n s o l v TN C e t y l A l coho l Sodium S t e a r y l 2 L a c t a l a t e Propy lparaben Methy lparaben Carbomer 934 T r i e thano l ami ne Fragrance & Co lo r

W t . 9 6 61 .37 20.00

5 . 0 0 5 .00 5 . 0 0 1 - 0 0 1 .oo 0.15 0 . 1 0

0.30-0.50 QS t o N e u t r a l i z e

QS

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formul a t i ons

Creams 113

Almond Vanishing Cream with Collagen

Phase 1 : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amer la te P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l Monostearate SE Almond O i 1 - L i povo l ALM Phase 2 : Emery 916 Pure G l y c e r i n e Water T r i e thano l ami ne Phase 3 : Col l a s o l (Co l l agen) Phase 4: Germaben I 1

% 5.9 8 . 9 0 .7 0 .7 0 .7 0.37 1 . o

6 . 0 13 .46 0 . 9

0 .37

1 . o

Procedure:

t o a tempera ture o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e tempera ture i s reached, add Phase ( 1 ) t o Phase ( 2 ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n . Next add Phase ( 3 ) and t h e n Phase ( 4 ) b o t h w i t h a g i t a t i o n , coo l t o 120F and package.

I n separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s hea t b o t h Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 )

Dry Skin Cream

P a r t (A) : Modul an Amerchol L-101 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Sodium S t e a r a t e Pure G l y c e r y l Mono S t e a r a t e SE Ross Spermaceti Wax Sub. 573 Ross Jo joba O i 1 P a r t ( B ) : Water Emery 916 G l y c e r i n e Pure T r ie thano lamine P a r t (C): P r e s e r v a t i v e P a r t ( D ) : Fragrance

% 3 . 7 4 .2 2 . 7

1 0 . 0 1 .8 5 . 5 1 . 8

59.7 9 . 2 1 . 4

q . s .

q . s .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . When tempera ture i s reached, mix P a r t (A) t o P a r t ( B ) and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t below 120F.

SOURCE: Framk 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

M e l t P a r t (A) and P a r t ( B ) i n separa te vesse ls t o 170F under

114 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a l i g h t cream t h a t c o u l d be d ispensed f rom a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r a j a r . The a lpha hydroxy a c i d (AHA) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use l e v e l o f approx imate ly 10%.

A . De ion ized Water Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 2,4-D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP) G l y c e r i n USP (99.7%) L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)

%* 65.80

0 .20 0 .20 3.00 0 .60

B. G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Stearami d o e t h y l D i e t h y l ami ne (Lexemul AR) 2.50

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 4 .00 Stearami dopropy l Dimethy l ami ne (Lexami ne S-13) 1 .00 C e t y l A lcoho l (Ado1 52) 1 . D O C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 6.00 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l BS) 2.00 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 . 1 0

C . L a c t i c A c i d (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa l S/SP 60%)

5.60 8 .00

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A'I h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. Use p r o p e l l e r mixer

f o r a g i t a t i o n . 2 . Combine s e c t i o n "Eqt h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h

a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r . 3 . When s e c t i o n s "A" & "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e des ig -

na ted tempera tures s l o w l y add l'0" t o " A " . M i x w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 minu tes t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g .

4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5 . A t 55-60C, add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". 6 . When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-45C a d j u s t f o r

water l o s s . 7 . M i x t o 30C. 8 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3.50-3.75 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium

L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d .

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : V i s c o s i t y : 10,000 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm).

pH: 3 .5 @ 24C 24 hour sample.

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-79-3

Creams 115

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream with 10% Aloe Vera Gel

Phase A: Dei o n i zed Water Propy lene G l y c o l Xanthan Gum (T icaxan) Phenoxyethanol

Phase B: Squalane NF PPG-12/SMDI (Po lyo lp repo lymer -2 ) Hydrogenated Phosphol i p i d ( L e c i no1 S-1 0 ) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( M i g l y o l 812) S t e a r i c A c i d C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c / S t e a r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e ( S o f t i s a n 378) Cyclomethicone (DC 344 F l u i d ) Dimethicone (DC 200 F l u i d ; 50 v i s . ) Ce tea ry l A l coho l (and) Ceteare th-20 (Cosmowax J ) G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) S tea re th -2 ( B r i j 72)

Phase C: L a c t i c Ac id, 88% ( B i o l a c )

Phase D: T e r r y A loe Vera Gel , l X , Dec Propy lene G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and)

Methylparaben (and) Propy lparaben (Germaben 11)

%& 50.45 4.00 0.50 0 .30

4.00 3.00 1 .oo 5 .00 2.50 2.00 4.00 1 - 0 0 2.00 1.50 0.50

7.00

10.00

1 . D O

1. S low ly d i s p e r s e Xanthan gum t o water w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r - o u s l y . Cont inue m i x i n g a t r a p i d speed u n t i l comp le te l y d i spe rsed and hyd ra ted . Heat t o 70C. Add Propy lene G l y c o l f o l l o w e d by Phenoxyethanol .

2. Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase B. Wh i le s l o w l y m i x i n g commence h e a t i n g t o 70-75C. Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m .

3 . S low ly i n t r o d u c e Phase B i n t o Phase A . Cont inue t o mix f o r 5-1 0 m i nu tes .

4. Cool t o 40C w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g t o mix . W i th b a t c h a t 35C, add Phase C and c o n t i n u e t o m ix .

5 . Combine a l l Phase D i n g r e d i e n t s , s t i r r i n g u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t o b a t c h w h i l e m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 25C.

SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

116 Cosmetic and Toiletry Forniulations

Aloe Vera Night Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A. De ion ized Water

T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Propy l ene G1 y c o l Methy lparaben

B. C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52 NF) C e t e a r y l A lcoho l (and) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (and)

Po lysorbate-40 S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e M i n e r a l O i 1 (and) L a n o l i n A lcoho l ( R i t a c h o l ) M i n e r a l O i l A l o e Vera L i p o i d 1 : 1 P e t r o l a t u m (and) L a n o l i n (and) Sodium PCA (and)

D i meth i cone 200 BHA Propylparaben

PEG-150 S t e a r a t e (and) S teare th-20 ( R i t a c h o l 1000)

P o l y s o r b a t e 85 (Ri taderm)

Percent 49.225

0.075 3.50 0.20

2.00

2.00 2.00 0 .70 1 .oo 7.00 3.00

3.00 1 .oo 0 .10 0 .10

C . Sodium Bora te 0 . 2 0

D. A loe Veragel Fragrance Germal l I 1

20.50 0 .15 0.25

Procedure: Heat Phase A and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 75C.

Add Phase A t o Phase B and mix 30 minu tes . Add Phase C and c o o l w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l tempera ture reaches 50C. Add Phase D and a g i t a t e u n t i l tempera ture reaches room tempera ture .

Night Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Water

Promulgen D T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99 Methy lparaben Propylparaben

A loe Veragel L i p o i d G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M i n e r a l O i l Magnesi urn S t e a r a t e

B. S t e a r i c A c i d

Procedure:

shu t o f f a g i t a t i o n . Heat phases t o BOC. Add phase B t o A . M ix u n t i l 4 0 C .

SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Formulat

Percent q . s . 1 . o 1 .2 0.35 0 . 1

8.0 6.0 3.5

10.0 0 . 5

and

ons

Creams 117

Anti -Cellulite Cream

A c t i v e s s p e c i f i c a l l y developed t o reduce t h e s i g n s and q u a n t i t y o f c e l l u l i t e a r e i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s q u i c k pene- t r a t i n g , non-greasy cream. The use o f Cera A l b a l a t e 103 a l l o w s f o r a s t a b l e emuls ion u s i n g a h i g h c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f low v i s c o s i t y o i l s . Orange Wax i n t h i s fo rmu la i s a l s o an a c t i v e due t o s i m i l a r c h e m i s t r y . The c l a i m s f o r Centerchem's a n t i - c e l l u l i t e p roduc ts a r e based on groups o f chemica ls wh ich a re a l s o found i n Orange Wax, f o r example; S t e r o i d s , Flavonones, F lavono ls and Cinnamates.

Phase A : Cera A l b a l a t e 103 (Kos te r Keunen) G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (Kos te r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henke l ) Orange Wax (Kos te r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) S i l i c o n e O i l 556 (Dow) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF (Kos te r Keunen) Ceteareth-20 (Croda) Euca lyp tus O i l (Crompton & Knowles) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Berne l )

Phase B : Water (Di s t i 1 l e d ) Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich) G l y c e r i n (Unichema) Prona lan A n t i c e l l u l i t e (Centerchem) I v y E x t r a c t (A lban M u l l e r ) Seaweed E x t r a c t (Centerchem) T r ie thano lamine (Dow) A loe Vera Gel (A loe Corp . ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

3.0% 4.0% 3 .0% 4.0% 2 .0% 2.0% 2 .0% 1.5% 0 .5% 2.5%

50.1% 0 . 2 % 3.0%

10 .0% 5 .0% 5.0% 0.2% 1.0% 1 .O%

Procedure:

E m u l s i f y by add ing Phase A t o Phase B. Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g . Pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s a t 40C.

Adapt ion o f f o rmu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

a c t i v e s which produce s i m i l a r c l a i m s . The use o f o t h e r p l a n t o i l s w i l l n o t d r a m a t i c a l l y a l t e r t h e f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t . Worth men t ion ing i s t h e a b i l i t y o f Orange Wax t o mask t h e aroma o f t h e euca lyp tus o i l p roduc ing a p roduc t o f low f rag rance .

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Heat Phase A t o 75 t o 80C. Heat and mix Phase B t o 75C.

There i s room f o r changing t h i s p roduc t by t h e use o f o t h e r

118 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Antiwrinkle Daycream

I n q r e d i e n t s : A ) Cremophor A6

Cremophor A25 C u t i na GMS C e t y l a1 coho1 L u v i t o l EHO P a r a f f i n O i l B i s a b o l o l S i l i c o n o i l AK 500 Phenoni p Parsol 1789 Parsol MCX

Propy7eng lyco l

P h y t a l u r o n a t e

Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f water phase 8) t o 70C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C,

Then add phases C ) and D) one a f t e r another and s t i r c o l d .

B) Water demi n e r a l i zed Euxyl K-200

C ) F i t o b r o s i de

D) F ragrance/Ch iara 0/238927 Procedure:

homogenize and c o o l t o 30C.

A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 006.8/02.93

% w/w 2,oo 2,oo 3,OO 3,OO 5,OO 5,OO 0,20 0,50 0,30 1 ,oo 2,oo

61,50 0,20 4,OO 5,OO 5 , O O 0,30

Daycream

I n q r e d i e n t s : A ) Tween 60

A r l a c e l 60 Cet y 1 a 1 coho 1 S t e a r i c A c i d I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e M i g l y c o l 812 Parsol 1789 Parso l MCX Phenoni p

8 ) Water demi n e r a l i zed G1 y c e r i n I m i d a z o l i d i n y l Urea S e r i c i n Immucel l

C) Fragrancs /T imbuktu O/lB6901 Procedure;

Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A) t o 70C. Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f wa te r phase B ) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase 6 ) t o phase A ) , c o o l t o 50C,

Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d . homogenize and c o o l t o 30C.

A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 005.E/11.94 SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d , : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

% w/w 3,OO 2,oo 3,OO 6,OO 10,oo 5,OO 1 ,oo 2,oo 0,50

56,QO 4 , O O 0,30 3,OO s i 0 0 0,30

Creams 119

Benzoyl Peroxide Cream

M a t e r i a l s : P a r t A : 1 . D . I . Water 2 . G l y c e r i n e 3 . Bentone MA r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 4. P r e s e r v a t i v e P a r t B: 1. G l y c e r y l Monostearate, SE 2 . S t e a r y l A lcoho l 3 . I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 4. P r e s e r v a t i v e P a r t C : 1. De ion ized Water 2. Benzoyl Perox ide

% b v Weiaht

71 .OO 3 .00 2.00 0.25

3.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0 .10

11.65 7.00

Procedure: 1 . M i x D.I. Water, g l y c e r i n e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Heat t o 60C. 2. Add Bentone MA s l o w l y and mix w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 80C. 3 . I n a separa te v e s s e l , mix phase B and h e a t t o 8OC. 4 . Add Phase A t o Phase B and mix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 50C. 5 . M ix and homogenize Phase C s e p a r a t e l y and add t o above

6. Homogenize t h e cream and f i l l t h e c o n t a i n e r .

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n TS-285

m i x t u r e o f Phase A and Phase B.

Day Cream O/W for Sensitive Skin

Component: I. Emulgade PL 1618

Almond O i l C e t i o l 868 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e B a y s i l o n M 350

1 I . G l y c e r i n 86% Water P r e s e r v a t i v e V i s c o s i t y 23C mPas:

3;O 79.0

q . s . 150000

P r e p a r a t i o n i n t h e Labora tory : 1 . Heat o i l phase t o BOC. Heat aqueous phase t o 80C and add t o

o i l phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g . E m u l s i f y f o r 5 minutes a t t h i s tempera ture .

2 . The emuls ion i s c o o l e d down w h i l e s t i r r i n g ; t h e s t i r r i n g must be s e l e c t e d i n such a way t h a t t h e emuls ion i s k e p t i n c o n t i n u a l mot ion , w i t h o u t d e v e l o p i n g a s o - c a l l e d " s t i r r i n g cone". Excess ive s t i r r i n g , i n p a r t i c u l a r below 50C, can l e a d t o t h e r e d u c t i o n o f t h e f i n a l v i s c o s i t y .

3 . H e a t - s e n s i t i v e a d d i t i v e s a r e added below 40C. F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 30C.

SOURCE: Henkel KOaA: F o r m u l a t i o n No.: 92/216/108

120 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cleansing Cream

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n i s a dual purpose makeup remover and s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r . Myvaplex 600P g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e p r o v i d e s m i l d c l e a n s i n g , emol l ience, and emuls ion s t a b i l i t y . Eastman v i t a m i n E6-81, t h e a c e t a t e e s t e r o f v i t a m i n E, o f f e r s improved heat and l i g h t s t a b i l i t y .

Phase A : Myvero l 18-06 hydrogenated soy g l y c e r i d e S t e a r i c a c i d , USP/NF Pet ro la tum, USP Drakeol 9 minera l o i l I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e SF 18 (350) s i l i c o n e f l u i d (d imeth icone)

Phase 0 : D i s t i 11 ed water Propy lene g l y c o l , USP T r i e thano l ami ne 99%, USP

Phase C: Eastman v i t a m i n E 6-81 ( v i t a m i n E a c e t a t e )

Phase D: Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e

%m 6.00 4.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 2.00

q . s . t o 100 5 .50 0.70

0.30

q . s . q . s .

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s and heat Phase A and Phase B s e p a r a t e l y

t o 80C, m i x i n g u n t i l each phase i s u n i f o r m . 2 . Add Phase B t o Phase A w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . 3 . Cont inue m i x i n g and s l o w l y c o o l t o 50C. 4 . Add Phase C w i t h m i x i n g and when u n i f o r m add Phase D. 5 . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o room tempera ture . 6. A d j u s t a g i t a t i o n speed th roughout process as needed.

I n v e r s i o n w i l l occur a t 32C, and cream w i l l become smooth and w h i t e . pH: 7.71

SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n X21139-007

Creams 121

Cleansing Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : % bv Wei a h t ( 1 De ion ized Water 31 .O i2j B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) 2 .0 (3) G l y c e r i n 3.0 (4) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) 5.0 (5) K a o p o l i t e 1147 20.0 (6) Beeswax 5.0 (7) Pet ro la tum 10.0 (8 ) M i n e r a l O i l ( l i g h t ) 17.0 ( 9 ) A r l a c e l 186 3.0 (10)Tween 80 1 . o (11 )So lu lan 16 3.0

P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance & C o l o r a n t q.s. Procedure:

Add (2) t o ( l ) , mix a t h i g h speed. Reduce speed and add (3) and ( 4 ) u n t i l smooth. Cont inue m ix ing , and add (5) s l o w l y u n t i l w e l l d i spe rsed . Heat t o 70C. I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , mix (6), ( 7 ) , ( 8 ) , (9), and (10) and hea t t o 70C u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o water phase and c o o l t o 30C w i t h con t inued m i x i n g .

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p roduc t used.

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g f lammable i n g r e d i e n t s .

Mascara Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s : % by Weight ( 1 ) De ion ized Water 27.8 (2 ) B e n t o n i t e (NF grade) 2 .0 (3) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e ( l o w v i s c o s i t y ) 0.2 ( 4 ) Propy lene G l y c o l 5 .0 (5) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) 5.0 ( 6 ) S o l u l a n 98 2.5 ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e TLC 4.0 ( 8 ) I r o n Oxides (m ic ron ized ) 3.5 (9) Deodor ized Kerosene 35.0 ( 1 O ) C a n d e l i l l a Wax 5.0 (11)Carnauba Wax (No. 1 y e l l o w ) 7 . 0 ( 1 2 ) A r l a c e l 186 3.0

Procedure: D ispe rse (2) i n t o (1 ) a t h i g h speed. Add (3) and c o n t i n u e

m i x i n g u n t i l w e l l d i spe rsed . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , (5), (61 , ( 7 ) , and ( 8 ) . Cont inue m ix ing , hea t t o 70C. In a separa te c o n t a i n e r , mix (g ) , ( l o ) , (11) and (12) and hea t t o 70C u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Add t o t h e aqueous phase w h i l e m i x i n g . Cool t o 30C.

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p roduc t used.

Good i n d u s t r i a l p r a c t i c e s shou ld be used when h a n d l i n g flammable i n g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE: K a o p o l i t e , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .

122 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cold Cream

(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e C e t y l A l c o h o l Hydrogenated Lanol i n N i k k o l WCB S o r b i t a n Monostearate Po lyoxyethy lene (20) S o r b i t a n Monooleate

(W) A j idew N-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1. Heat ( 0 ) and ( W ) t o 80-85C. 2. Add ( W ) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 7 . 2

Cold Cream

(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) P e t r o l a t u m N i k k o l WCB G1 y c e r y l Monostearate Po lyoxyethy lene (10) C e t y l E ther A1 umi num Monostearate

(W) A j idew N-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and (W) t o 80C. 2. Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cont inue s t i r r i n g u n t i l 35-40C.

pH: 5 .2

Wt% 2 0 . 0

9 .0 3 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0

1 0 . 0 2 .7 2.3

3 . 0 47 .0

q . s .

Wt% 30.0

6 . 0 7 . 0 7 .0 2 . 5 2.5 2 . 0

3 . 0 42.0

q . s .

SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formulat ions

Creams 123

Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721s

6 Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934

w 10.00

4 .00

80 .50 0.10

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous) 0.10

D D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0

E Fragrance 0 . 2 0

F Ethano l , SDA-40 5.00

Procedure:

b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C). Add ( D ) when t h e tempera ture drops below 50C. Add (E) below 40C. Add (F) and water t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add (6) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g

Facial Washing Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

C e t y l a l c o h o l A r l a c e l 165 Tween 60

6 G l y c e r i n Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e

C *Perfume *Color

*q.s. these i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat ( A )

i n u e d s t i r r Add (C) and Formula SK-

%m 25.00

2.00 10.00

1 .oo 6.00

56.00

t o 65C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h c o n t - ng u n t i l t h e emuls ion tempera ture drops t o 45C. c o n t i n u e a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l . 6A

S u r f a c t a n t s : SugQested Formula t ions SOURCE: IC1

124 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Daily Facial Cream with UV Protection (O/W) (Expected SPF 6)

I n n r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165

Eumulgin B 2 L a n e t t e 0 F i n s o l v TN C e t i o l OE I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e A b i l 100 Bentone Gel MI0 Neo He l iopan, Type AV C u t i n a CBS

B Demi n e r a l i zed water Pemulen TR-2 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aq. s o l u t i o n ) G l y c e r i n 86% Phenoni p Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro; used as a

n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e Z i n c Oxide N e u t r a l H&R

%( w / w 1 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 3.00 5.00 1 - 0 0 1 .oo 3.00 1 .oo 2.00

67.25 0 . 4 0 0 .20 3 .00 0.50

15% s o l u t i o n 3.35

3 . 0 0 ( a c t i v e 0.50%)

C Perfume o i l 0 .30

M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A: Heat up t o 75C w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . P a r t B:

Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s , e x c l u d i n g Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R and heat up t o 95C. Then add and d i s p e r s e Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cont inue s t i r r - i n g t o room tempera ture . P a r t C :

emuls ion.

D isperse t h e Pemulen i n t h e water d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n .

A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A /B and homogenize t h e

The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be approx. 7 . 5 and has t o be checked.

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 2/1-21282/E

Creams 125

Day Cream, Oily

A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 S o f t i s a n 649 Dynacer i n 660 S t e a r i c a c i d C e t y l a l c o h o l

B . Water

C . T r i e thano lamine

D. Perfume Prese rva t i ve

% 1 0 . 0 6 . 0 6 . 0 5 . 0 3.0 5.0 3.0

t o 1 0 0 . 0

0.90

qs qs

P r e p a r a t i o n : A . and 8 . a r e s e p a r a t e l y warmed t o 75C. C . i s added t o B.

8. and C . a r e e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s i n t r o d u c e d a t approx . 30C.

Moisturizing Cream, Slightly Oily

A . I m w i t o r 940 M i g l y o l 812 M i g l y o l 840 Lane t te N

B. Hygrop lex HHG K a r i o n F 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Water

C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

%

5.0 3.0 5.0

1 0 . 0

5.0 3.0 3.0

t o 100.0

qs qs

P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 80-85C.

B . i s heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s added a t approx . 30C.

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

126 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Deep Moisturizing Cream

T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g cream uses Cromoist CS as a m o i s t u r e absorb ing , f i l m f o r m i n g p r o t e i n t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e and b i n d t o t h e s k i n . The emuls ion i s formed and s t a b i l i z e d by t h e Polawax, Syncrowax, and Super H a r t o l a n combina t ion . The o i l s a r e a b l e n d o f Crodalan LA, Crodamol PMP, Super Ref ined Babassu O i l , and P e t r o l a t u m which p r o v i d e s a non greasy e l e g a n t f e e l and h e l p s t o s o f t e n t h e s k i n .

I n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Pol awax (Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax NF) Syncrowax A w l - C (C18-36 A c i d ) Syncrowax HGL-C (C18-36 A c i d T r i g l y c e r i d e ) Crodalan LA ( C e t y l Aceta te (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n

Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l (Babassu O i l ) Super H a r t o l a n ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E t h e r P r o p i o n a t e ) P e t r o l a t u m Propy l Paraben

P a r t 6 : Water, d e i o n i z e d Methy l paraben G1 y c e r i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

A1 coho1 )

2.00 5 .50 1 .oo 1 .oo 3 .00 1 - 0 0 7 .00 1 . o o 0 .20

66.00 0.30

10.00 1 .oo

P a r t C : Cromoist CS ( C h o n d r o i t i n S u l f a t e (and) Hydro lyzed

Procedure:

Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h homogenizer m i x i n g and c o o l t o 65C. Cont inue m i x i n g w i t h a sweep b l a d e mixer and c o o l t o 40C. Add p a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture .

P r o t e i n ) 1 - 0 0

Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75C.

V i s c o s i t y : 4,000,000+-10% ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, S p i n d l e TE, 25C) N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: Croda Inc.: Formula SC-207

Creams 127

Deep Moisturizing Creme

P a r t A : Water Potass i urn Hydrox ide (45%) Monafax 160 Phosphol i p i d SV Germaben 1 1 - E T i t a n i um D i o x i d e

P a r t 0 : Cety l A l coho l Myr i s t y 1 Myr i s t a t e I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Dimethicone (1OOcs) Lanol i n A l coho l

% by Weight 84.5

0 . 4 1 . 0 2 . 5 0 . 6 0 . 5

2 . 0 3.0 4 . 0 1 . o 0 . 5

Procedure: Heat P a r t A w i t h a g i t a t i i o n t o 60C. Separa te l y heat P a r t B t o

60C. Homogenize P a r t B i n t o P a r t A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o ensure good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r coo l t o 45C, add f rag rance , and package.

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Apricot Vanishing Cream

Phase ( 1 ) : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amer la te P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l Monostearate SE A p r i c o t Kernal O i l L i p o v o l P

Phase ( 2 ) : Water Emery 916 Pure G l y c e r i n e T r ie thano lamine

Phase ( 3 ) : Germaben I 1

3 6.64 9 .2 0 . 8 0 . 8 0 . 8 0 . 8 0 . 4 1 . 3

72 .9 6.2 0 .96

1 . 0

Fragrance GK-19 9,5.

Procedure: I n separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s , hea t b o t h Phase (1 ) and

( 2 ) t o a tempera ture o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e tempera- t u r e i s reached, add Phase ( 1 ) t o Phase ( 2 ) w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, add Phase (3 ) and f r a g r a n c e . Cont inue t o coo l t o 120F and package. SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

128 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emollient Cream

P a r t A : Water Magnabri t e Methyl paraben Propy l paraben BHA

P a r t B: Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 Propy lene g l y c o l So rb i t o 1 M y r i s t y 1 p r o p i o n a t e Cocoa b u t t e r C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r i c a c i d

P a r t C : O c t y l d ime thy l PABA T r i e thano l ami ne Fragrance

69.12% 0.50 0.20 0 .10 0.08

4.50 3.50 4.00 3.00 5.00 4.00 4.00

1 - 0 0 1 - 0 0

q . s .

Procedure: Heat water t o 80 degrees C e l s i u s . D i s s o l v e parabens and BHA

i n t o w a t e r . S i f t Magnabr i te i n t o t h e v o r t e x . When d i spe rsed add B i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l me l ted and u n i f o r m . Beg in c o o l i n g . A t 50 degrees C e l s i u s add C i n g r e d i e n t s . Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l coo l .

Stabilized Urea Moisturizing Cream

Urea S t e a r y l a1 coho1 G l y c e r y l monostearate O c t y l dodecanol Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 Po lyoxye thy lene s t e a r y l e t h e r Bu ty lpa raben Ethy lparaben Propy lene g l y c o l Sodium PCA Ammoni um c h l o r i de Water 9 , s . t o

10.00% 10.00

8 . 0 0 5 .00 6 .00 2.50 0 .10 0.10 3.00 3.00 1 .oo

100.00

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Creams 129

Emollient Cream for Dry Flaking Skin

I n a r e d i e n t : De ion i zed Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% Propylene G l y c o l Xanthan Gum Tetrasodium EDTA C e t e a r y l A1 coho l Laneth-5 G l y c e r y l Monostearate O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l V i t a m i n E Aceta te S t e a r i c A c i d XXX D i meth i cone O c t y l P a l m i t a t e Germaben I 1 Fragrance

No.:Phase: 1 A 2 A 3 A 4 A 5 A 6 B 7 B 8 B 9 B

10 B 11 0 12 B 13 B 14 C 15 D

% bv Weiaht 74.65%

1.00% 3.00% 0.30% 0.10% 1 .OO% 1.50% 4.00% 3.00% 0.20% 4.00% 1 .OO% 5.00% 1 .OO% 0.25%

Manufac tur ing Procedure: Heat Phase A t o 75C. Heat Phase B t o 75C. Add Phase B t o Phase A . Cool t o 40C and add remain ing phases. Package.

A o i l i n water emuls ion where t h e p r i m a r y e m u l s i f i e r s a r e

T h i s i s a f a i r l y inexpens ive f o r m u l a t h a t uses two e m o l l i e n t s -

An e x c e l l e n t example o f t h e f e e l o f Kuku i .

s t e a r i c a c i d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and Laneth-5.

Kukui and o c t y l p a l m i t a t e .

& 1 2

Phase: A A

3 B 4 B 5 B 6 0 7 B 8 B 9 B

10 C

Facial Cleansing Cream

I n a r e d i e n t : Dei o n i zed Water G1 y c e r i ne M i n e r a l O i l O i l s o f Aloha Macademia Nut O i l O i l s o f Aloha Kukui Nut O i l C e t y l A lcoho l C12-15 A1 coho l s Benzoate A r l a c e l 165 Polysorbate-60 P r e s e r v a t i ve

% by Wei caht 54.00%

6.00% 15.00%

5.00% 5.00% 2.00% 2.00%

10.00% 1.00% QS

Manufac tur ing Procedure: Phase A : Heat water and g l y c e r i n phase t o 75C. Phase 0: Heat o i l phase t o 75C. Add t o water phase. Cool t o

Phase C: Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . 40C.

SOURCE: Oils o f Aloha: Suggested Formula t ions

130 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emollient Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

A r 1 a s o l v e 200L B r i j 72 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbopol 934

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous)

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume

*q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%M 20 .00

1 . 1 0 7 .20 2 .00

69.30 0 . 2 0

0.20

Procedure:

good a g i t a t i o n and add ( C ) a t 35C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) . Heat ( A ) t o 72C and (B) t o 75C. Add (B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Replace water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package. Formula AE-15

Non-Greasy Emollient Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s B r i j 72

B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbopol 934

w 10.00 4.00 5.11 1 .89

58.10 0 . 4 0

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous) 0 .40

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e

E Fragrance 0.10

F E thano l

Procedure: Heat ( A )

moderate ag ( F ) a t 35C. Formula SK-

SOURCE: I C 1

SDA-40 20 IO0

t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) below 50C. Add (E) and Replace water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and package. 2

S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams 131

Emollient Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Pe t ro la tum L i q u i d l a n o l i n f r a c t i o n B r i j 72 B r i j 700

B Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h

Emollient Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A B r i j 72

B r i j 721 Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Ce ty l a l c o h o l S t e a r i c a c i d S i l i c o n e f l u i d (GE SF 96-20)

6 Propy lene g l y c o l *Dow ic i l 200 Water, d e i on i zed * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

3 .00 2 .00 5 . 0 0 2 .00 3.00 3.00

82 .00

%w/w 3 .00 2 .00 9 .00 0 . 7 0 0 . 3 0 1 .50 1 . o o 4.00

78.50

Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o evapora t i on. Formula PC-9028

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Vanishing Cream

I n n r e d i e n t s : A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g .m.s . Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 M ine ra l o i l Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , U . S . P , Water, d e i o n i z e d

%w/w 18.00 2 . 0 0 1 . o o 1 .00 2.00

76.00

Procedure:

room tempera ture .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s t o 9OC w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o

132 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

European O/W Day Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : Isohexadecane Capry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e Avocado o i l Sunf lower Seed O i l Tocopherol Ace ta te Behenyl a l c o h o l A n t i o x i d a n t

A r l a t o n e 2121 G1 y c e r o l Pant henol A1 1 a n t o i n

* P r e s e r v a t i v e Xanthan gum Water

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

1 0 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2.00 2.00 2.00 0 .05

5 .50 4 . 0 0 1 . o o 0 .20

0 .15 67.10

Procedure: M e l t A r l a t o n e 2121 and add t o remainder o f (B) and (C)

m i x t u r e a t 80C. Add heated (A) t o t h e (B) and (C) m i x t u r e a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n . Homogenize m i x t u r e a t 65C

Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 7215 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s

B Water, d e i o n i z e d

C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n grade

w/w 6 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 0 . 5 0

66.30

22 * 20

Procedure:

moderate ag t a t i o n . Add (C) below 35C. Rep ace wa te r l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h i l u t e phosphor c a c i d (10% C . P . ) , Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b e evo l u t i on o f oxygen. Formula PC-8200

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 60C and ( 8 ) t o 65C. Add (6) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Creams 133

Exfoliating Cream

The use o f n a t u r a l e x f o l i a t i n g agent ( e a s i l y d i s p e r s e d ) i n t h i s cream fo rmula g i v i n g a marvelous, n o n - i r r i t a t i n g , a b r a s i v e q u a l i t y f o r t h e removal o f spent s u r f a c e c e l l s . T h i s w i l l renew and r e v i t a T i z e worn and damaged s k i n , l e a v i n g a b a r r i e r which c o n t a i n s n a t u r a l a n t i - o x i d a n t s i n h e r e n t i n t h e beeswax and orange wax.

Phase A : Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) NF White Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Kos ter Keunen) C e t y l s t e a r y l A lcoho l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema)

Phase 8 : Water (D i s t i 11 ed) Propy l ene G1 y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 (Gal l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r ) Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

Phase C : M i c r o g r a n u l a t e d Carnauba, 20-60 mesh ( K o s t e r Keunen)

3.5% 1 . 0 % 3.0% 3.5% 4 . 0 % 1.5% 1.0% 3.0%

64 I 6% 2.5% 1 .O% 0.2% 0.2% 1 .0%

10.0%

Procedure:

0 a t 75C under a g i t a t i o n . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 50C. Add Phase C and mix u n t i l homogeneous.

Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

i n g s t e a r i c a c i d f o r i s o s t e a r i c a c i d , t o accomodate your p r e - f e r r e d c o n t a i n e r . For s e n s i t i v e s k i n , reduce t h e orange wax, and r e p l a c e w i t h Kes ter Wax 62 and Ceres ine 130/135. A low v i s c o s i t y w i l l a l l o w t h i s p r o d u c t t o be packaged i n a b o t t l e f i t t e d w i t h a pump and a p r o d u c t w i t h h i g h v i s c o s i t y a l l o w s packaging i n an open j a r . The f o r m u l a t i n g advantages remain un- a l t e r e d by t h e changes i n v i s c o s i t y .

SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Add a mixed and u n i f o r m Phase A t o a mixed and u n i f o r m Phase

V i s c o s i t y o f t h i s p r o d u c t can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d b y s u b s t i t u t -

134 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Facial Moisturizing Cream

E t h y l h e x y l p-methoxycinnamate Buty lmethoxyd ibenzoy lmethane E t h y l ene -ac ry l a t e copolymer Hydroxypropyl g l y c e r y l e t h e r P r o t o p e t 1 s P e t r o l a t u m Dimeth i cone Steareth-100 G l y c e r y l monostearate C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r i c A c i d Carbomer 934 Carbomer 941 Methy lparaben Propylparaben I m i dazo l i d i n y l u r e a Tetrasodium EDTA T y r o s i n e P o t a s s i um h y d r o x i de T i t a n i um d i o x i d e Fragrance Water

Moisturizing Hand & Body Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : Dei o n i zed Water Carbomer 934 G l y c e r i n e P o l y a l d o 10-1-5 P e t r o l a t u m C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 Lonzest 143/S A ldo HMS S t e a r i c A c i d T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 99% G lydan t P l u s

4,90% 2.10 0.50 5.00 2.00 0 . 4 0 0.70 0.30 1 . 2 0 0.52 0 .10 0 .10 0 . 2 0 0.10 0 .10 0.10 0.10 0.37 0 .40 0.15

q . s . t o 100.00

%Wt. 82 .00

0.50 5.00 1 . 5 0 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 2.00 1.50 2.50 1 .oo

q . s .

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp . : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams 135

Facial Night Cream

P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water So rb i t o 1 Methylparaben P a r t B : C14-16 a l c o h o l s benzoate Lanol i n P ro tope t IS Pet ro la tum Beeswax Po lyso rba te 80 G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e and PEG S t e a r i c a c i d T r ie thano lamine P a r t C : G l y c o s p h i n g o l i p i d s P a r t D : Dimethicone D i azo1 i d i n y l u rea Fragrance

100 s t e a r a t e

53.7% 1 . o 0.2

15.0 1 . o 5.0

4.0 2.0 3.0 0.6

5.0

1 . o 0.3 0.2

8.0

Procedure: Beg in h e a t i n g water t o 80 C e l s i u s , add r e s t o f P a r t A . M ix

w e l l . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . M ix u n t i 1 homogeneous. Begin c o o l i n g t o room tempera ture . S l o w l y add P a r t C; mix u n t i l smooth. Add r e s t o f P a r t D i n g r e d i e n t s . M ix w e l l

Age Spot Treatment Cream

D i ethano ami ne c e t y l phosphate E thy lene g l y c o l monostearate I sop ropy P a l m i t a t e C e t e a r y l oc tanoa te P ro tope t 1s Pet ro la tum Lanol i n a l c o h o l s Propylparaben Methylchloroisothiazolinone and m e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e I m i dazo l i d i n y l u rea Methylparaben BHA BHT Cys te ine Reduced g l u t a t h i o n e Pyrocatecho l Ascorby l p a l m i t a t e A c e t i c A c i d Octylmethoxy cinnamate Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane Fragrance

2.00% 12.00 12.00 2.00 2.50 3.00 0.10 0.05 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.30 0.50 0.50 2.00 0.20 0.20 1 . oo 1 .oo 0.60

Water q . s . t o 100.00

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Pet ro leum Speci a1 t i es Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

136 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose Cream

1 . A-C Copolymer 540 2 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 3 . Amerchol L-101 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 5 . Hexadecyl S t e a r a t e 6. Emerest 2452 7. Propyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 8. Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.00 r a x 11 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 12. Water

Wtl 2 . 0 2 . 0 5 . 0

10 .2 1 0 . 0

5 . 5 0 .1 0 .2 5 . 0 0 . 3 0 .3

59.7

Procedure:

a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 78C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r and make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de- a e r a t e and package.

Weigh 1-7 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has

General Purpose Water/Oil Cream

1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 2 . 0 2 . Beeswax 4 .0 3 . M i n e r a l O i l 15 .0 4 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5 5 . Propyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1 6 . Borax 0 . 3 7 . S o r b i t o l 5 . 0 8 . Methyl-p-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 9 . Germal l 115 0 .3 10.Water 67 .6 Procedure:

has a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b lend . I f a h i g h e r temp- e r a t u r e i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. Heat 5-10 t o 85-9OC and s t i r gent1

Weigh 1-4 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d

i s d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C. P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous

and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t approx the c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some wa te r may n o t be taken up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d shear ing w i l l i t a l l . Add perfume, de-aera te and package. SOURCE: A1 1 i ed S i gnal Inc . : 501 1-1 9-5/5011-20-1

u n t i l a l l

phase t o i t mate l y 48C compl e t e l y n c o r p o r a t e

Creams 137

General Purpose O/W Cream

1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6. 7 .

8 . 9 . 10 11 12

A-C Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . Dow F l u i d 556 Emerest 2388 Amerchol 400 S o l u l a n 2 5 A r l a c e l 60

S o r b i t o l (70%) Tween 60 Carbopol 940 Germal l 115 T r i e thano l ami ne

wt"/o 2 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o

10 .5 2 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0

5 . 0 1 . o 0 .75 0 . 4 0 . 7 5

13. Water 68 .6

Procedure:

s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i ngred i e n t s , except T r i e thano l - amine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package.

D ispe rse Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h

General Purpose o/w Cream

1 . A-C Copolymer 540 2 . M i n e r a l o i 1, 70 v i s . 3 . Dow F l u i d 556 4 . Emerest 2388 5 . Hydroxy01 6 . E thoxyo l 24 7 . A r l a c e l 60

8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 9 . Tween 60 10. Carbopol 940 11.Germal l 115 12 .T r ie thano lamine 13 . Water

Et% 2 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o

1 0 . 5 2 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0

5 . 0 1 . o 0 . 7 5 0 . 4 0 . 7 5

68.6

Procedure:

s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s , except T r i e t h a n o l - amine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de-aearate and package.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Re f : 5011-25-2/Ref: 5011-25-2A

D ispe rse Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h

138 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose O/W Cream

1 . A-C Copolymer 540 2 . M i n e r a l o i l , 70 v i s 3. Dow F l u i d 556 4. I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e 5 . Amerchol 400 6 . S o l u l a n 25 7 . A r l a c e l 60

8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 9 . Tween 60 10. Carbopol 940 11 .Germal l 115 12 .T r ie thano lamine 13.Water

w- 2 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o

10 .5 2 .0 1 . o 2.0

5 . 0 1 . o 0 . 7 5 0 . 4 0 .75

68 .6

Procedure:

s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s , except T r i e t h a n o l - amine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and heat t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add T r ie thano lamine and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de-aera te and package.

D isperse Carbopol i n wa te r . Weigh 1-7 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h

General Purpose O/W Cream

1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3 . M i n e r a l o i 1 , 70 v i s . 4 . Dow F l u i d 556 5 . Emerest 2388 6 . Amerchol 400 7 . S o l u l a n 25 8 . A r l a c e l 60

9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Tween 60 11 .Carbopol 940 12.Germal l 115 13. T r i e thano l ami ne 14.Water

W B 1 . 0 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o

10 .5 2 . 0 1 . o 1 . 3

5 . 0

0 . 7 5 0 . 4 0 . 7 5

68.5

1 . a

Procedure:

s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s , except T r i e t h a n o l - amine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e minu tes . Add T r ie thano lamine and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de-aera te and package.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Re f : 5011-25-2B/Ref: 5011-25-3

D isperse Carbopol i n wa te r . Weigh 1-8 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h

Creams 139

General Purpose O/W Cream

1. A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3 . M i n e r a l o i 1, 70 v i s . 4 . Dow F l u i d 556 5 . Emerest 2388 6 . Hydroxy01 7 . Ethoxyol 24 8 . A r l a c e l 60

9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 10.Tween 60 11. Carbopol 940 12.Germal l 115 13 .T r ie thano lamine 14. Water

wts/b 1 . o 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o

10 .5 2 . 0 1 . o 1 . 3

5 . 0 1 . 8 0 . 7 5 0 . 4 0 . 7 5

68.5

Procedure:

w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s , except T r i e t h a n - o lamine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package.

D ispe rse Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-8 and hea t t o 80-9OC

General Purpose O/W Cream

I . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3. M i n e r a l o i 1, 70 v i s . 4 . Dow F l u i d 556 5 . I s o p r o p y l Myr 6 . Amerchol 400 7 . S o l u l a n 25 8 . A r l a c e l 60

9 . S o r b i t o l (70% 10.Tween 60 11.Carbopol 12.Germal l 115

s t a t e

1 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 14. Water

Wt% 1 . o 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o

10 .5 2 . 0 1 . o 1 .3

5 . 0 1 . 8 0 .75 0 . 4 0 . 7 5

68.5

Procedure: D ispe rse Carbopol i n w a t e r . Weigh 1-8 and hea t t o 80-9OC

w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s , excep t T r i e t h a n - o lamine, t o t h e Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e aqueous phase t o t h e wax phase and shear i n homomixer f o r f i v e m inu tes . Add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e and c o n t i n u e t o shear w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40-5OC. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Re f . 5011-25-3A/5011-25-3B

140 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose O/W Cream

1 . 2. 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 . 10 11 12

A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 A-C Copolymer 540 M i n e r a l O i l (70 s s ) Dow 556 F l u i d Propylene G1 y c o l D i p e l a rgona te Hydroxy01 E thoxyo l 24 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e S o r b i t o l (70%) Carbopol 940

wtv 1 . o 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o

1 0 . 5 2 . 0 1 . o 1 . 3 1 . 8 0 . 1 5 . 0 0 .75

13.Germal l 115 0 . 4 14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 .2 15. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne 16.Water 6 8 . 3 Procedure:

D i s p e r s e Carbopol i n wa te r . Weigh 1-10 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s t o Carbopol /water d i s p e r s i o n , except t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and hea t t o 80-9OC. Add t h e wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g w e l l . Cool t o 30C, add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. Re f : 5011-25-4

0 . 7 5

Acne Scrub Cream For acne sc rub cream, add 10% A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e SA t o t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n , a f t e r c o o l i n g .

Emollient Cream, Water/Oil

1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 1% 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 4 3 . L a n o l i n Wax 10 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 30 5 . 2 E t h y l Hexy l S t e a r a t e 4 . 5 6 . A r l a c e l 20 4.6 7. Tween 20 1 . 5 8 . P Paraben 0 . 1 9 . M Paraben 0.15 10. Water 43.85 11 .Borax 0 .15 12.Carbopol 941 0 .15 Procedure: 1 . Heat 1-5 to 9OC u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . 2 . Add 6, 7 and 8 t o 1-5. Ho ld a t 85C. 3 . Heat 10 and 11 t o 90-95C u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d ; add 12

g r a d u a l l y w i t h shear u s i n g t h e Gi f ford-Wood Homomixer o r equi v a l e n t .

4. Add 1-8 t o m ixe r and shear f o r 10 minutes a t 85-9OC. Shear t o 65C, add perfume and package.

SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Creams 141

General Purpose Cream WtO/o

1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 3.0 2 . Beeswax 2 . 0 3 . L a n o l i n A l coho l 1 . o 4 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 8 .2 5 . 2 - e t h y l Hexyl P a l m i t a t e 10.0 6 . Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s 1 . o 7 . T r i g l y c e r a l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 5 . 5 8 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 .1 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 10 .A loe E x t r a c t 5 . 0 11.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 0 . 3

13.Germal l 115 0 . 3

15. Water 58 .3

12 .Methy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 .2

14 .Buty l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1

Procedure:

has a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85'2.

and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref : 5189-4-10A

Weigh 1-8 and and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t

1. 2 . 3 . 4. 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 . 10. 11.

Water-In-Oil Cream

A-C 617 M i n e r a l O i 1 (70-75 SS) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e E s c a l o l 507 Lanogene S o r b i t a n S e s q u i o l e a t e ( A r l ace1 83) Sorbo Borax Germaben I I E Water Perfume

% 3 . 0

15 .0 6 . 0 4 . 0 5 .0 5 . 0 5 . 0 0 . 3 1 . o

Balance Q.S.

Procedure:

o l v e d . M a i n t a i n i t a t 100-11OC. Heat 7-10 w i t h v i g o r o u s a g i t a - t i o n w i t h a c o l l o i d m i l l o r homof ixer u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s a t 85C. Con t inue v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n and pour i n 1-6. A c rude o i l - i n - w a t e r emuls ion i s formed. Cool w i t h c o l d wa te r b a t h t o about 55-60C when i t i n v e r t s i n t o a smooth cream. A t 50-55C add perfume and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat 1 -6 w i t h m i l d a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e A-C 617 has d i s s -

142 Cosmetic and To i l ev Formulations

General Purpose Water/Oil CreamWt.%

1 . A-C Polyethylene 617 2.0 2. A-C Copolymer 540 2.0 3. Mineral Oil (70 ss) 10.2 4. 2 Ethyl Hexyl Stearate 10.0

6. Triglycerol Di -i sostearate 5.5 7. Propy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.1 8 . Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 9. Sorbitol (70%) 5.0 10. Borax 0.3 1 1 .Water 59.7 Procedure:

Weigh 1-5 and heat to 85C with slow agitation. This wax blend has a cloud point o f 79C. Above the cloud point all waxes will eventually dissolve in blend. I f a higher solvating temperature is used, solvation can be much faster. Hold the wax blend at 70-8OC and add 6 and 7 to it with stirring until all has dissolved. Heat 8-11 to 85-9OC and stir gently until all has dissolved. Hold at 70-8OC.

Place wax blend in mixing container, add aqueous phase to it and shear with homomixer or colloid mill. At 53C the crude dispersion inverts and a thick creamy emulsion forms. Continue shearing while scraping the sides of the container to make sure the whole content is properly sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5011-18-6

5. Lanolin Alcohol ( L 101) 5.0

General Purpose Water/Oil Cream

1 , A-C Polyethylene 617 2 . 0 2. Beeswax 4.0 3. Mineral Oil 15.0 4 . Arlacel 83 5.5 5. Propyl -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.1 6. Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 7. Sorbitol (70%) 5.0 8. Borax 0.3 9. Water 67.9 Procedure:

a cloud point of approximately 80C. Above the cloud point all waxes will eventually dissolve in the blend. If a higher solvating temperature is used, solvation can be much faster. Hold the wax blend at 85C. Heat 5-9 to 85-9OC and stir gently until all has dissolved. Hold at 85C.

Place wax blend in mixing container, add aqueous phase to it and shear with homomixer or colloid mill. At 50C the crude dis- persion inverts and a thick creamy emulsion forms. Continue shearing while scraping the sides of the container to make sure the whole content is properly sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5011-18-5 SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Weigh 1-4 and heat to 85C with slow agitation. The blend has

Creams 143

General Purpose W/O Cream KtA

1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 2 . 0 2 . Beeswax 3 . 0 3 . Rewomid S-280 1 . o 4 . Amerchol CAB 5 . 0 5 . M i n e r a l O i l 1 1 . o 6 . I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e 8 . 8 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 3 . 0 8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 9 . Borax 0 . 3 10.Germal l 115 0 . 2 11 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 0 . 3 12. Water 60 .0 Procedure:

Weigh 1-7 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 76C t h e c rude d i s - p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aera te and package .

General Purpose W/O Creamy/tv

1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 2 . 0 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3 . 0 3 . Rewomid S-280 1 . o 4 . Amerchol Cab. 5 . 0 5 . M i n e r a l O i l 1 1 . o 6 . I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e 8 . 8 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 3 . 0 8 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 9 . Borax 0 . 3 10.Germall 115 0 .2 1 1 .Magnesium S u l f a t e 0 . 3 12. Water 60.0 Procedure:

a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 76C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aera te and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Formula 5011-19-3/5011-19-4

Weigh 1-7 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has

144 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose W/O Cream

1 . A-C P o l v e t h v l e n e 617 2 . A-c Copblymir 3 . Amerchol L -10 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 5 . Dow F l u i d 556 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl 7 . A r l a c e l 83 8 . S o r b i t o l (70% 9 . Borax 10.Germal l 115 11 .Water Procedure:

Weigh 1-7 and a c l o u d o o i n t o f

540

S t e a r a t e

W t % 2 . 0 2 . 0 5 . 0

10 .0 3 . 0 5 . 0 5 . 5 5 . 0 0 . 3 0 . 5

61 . 7

hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has aoorox ima te l v 80C. Above t h e c l o u d o o i n t a l l , .

waxes w i i l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 8-11 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 79C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Cont inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package.

General Purpose W/O CreamW t %

1 . A -C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 0 2 . Beeswax 2 . 0 3 . Amerchol 1-101 5 . 0 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 8 . 2 5 . Dow F l u i d 200-350 cps 1 . o 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 5 . 5 8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 10. Borax 0 .3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 12.Water 59 .7 Procedure:

a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Formulas R e f . 5011-20-4/5011-22-1

Weigh 1-8 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has

Creams 145

General Purpose W/O Cream

1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 0 2 . Beeswax 2 .0 3 . Amerchol L-101 5 . 0 4. M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 8 . 2 5 . Dow F l u i d 200, 350 c s . 1 . o 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 10 .0 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 5 . 5 8 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 .1 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 10.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 0 . 3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 12.Germal l 115 0 .3 13. Water 5 9 . 4

a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package.

Weigh 1-8 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has

General Purpose W/O Cream W B

1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 5 2. A-C Copolymer 540 1 .5 3 . Beeswax 2 .0 4 . L a n t r o l 9 . 5 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 1 5 . 0 6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 10 .0 7 . 2 - E t h y l Hexy l S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0 8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5 9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1 10 . So rb i t o 1 (70%) 7 . 0 11 .Borax 0 . 3 12.Magnesi um S u l f a t e 0 . 3 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 .2 14.Germal l 115 0 . 2 15 . Water 34 .9

Weigh 1-9 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r tempera tu re i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l i s d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 11 . A t app rox ima te l y 80C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some wa te r may not be c o m p l e t e l y taken up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d s h e a r i n g w i l l i n c o r p o r a t e i t SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Formula Ref:5011-24-2/Ref: 5011-24-4

146 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose W/O Cream1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 3 .0% 2. A-C Copolymer 540 2 . 0 3. Beeswax 2 .0 4. L a n t r o l 9 . 5 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 15.0 6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 1 0 . 0 7 . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 10 .0 8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5 9 . Propy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 .1 10. So rb i t o 1 (70%) 7 .0 11 . Borax 0 . 3 12 .Magnesi um S u l f a t e 0.3 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 14.Germal l 115 0 . 2 15. Water 34.9 Weigh 1-9 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b lend . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C. Place wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer or c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 80C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aera te and package.

General Purpose W/O Cream 1 . A-C Po lye thy lene 617 2 . 0 % 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 3 .0 3. Beeswax 2 . 0 4 . L a n t r o l 9 . 5 5 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 1 5 . 0 6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 10 .0 7 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 10.0 8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5 9 . Propy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1 1 0 . Sorbi t o 1 (70%) 7 . 0 11 .Borax 0.3 12.Magnesium S u l f a t e 0.3 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 14.Germal l 115 0 . 2 15. Water 34.9 Weigh 1-9 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . T h i s wax b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f approx ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n b lend . I f a h i g h e r tempera ture i s used, t h e s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 80-85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l i s d i s - so l ved . Ho ld a t 85C. Place wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t app rox ima te l y 80C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s . Some water may n o t be comp le te l y taken up a t t h i s p o i n t b u t c o n t i n u e d shear ing w i l l i n c o r p o r a t e i t a l l . Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Ref: 5011-24-5/Ref: 5011-24-6

Creams 147

General Purpose W/O CreamW S

1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 3.0 2 . Beeswax 2 . 0 3 . N i m l e s t e r o l D 5 . 0 4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 8 . 2 5 . Dow F l u i d 200-350 cps 1 . o 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexy l S t e a r a t e 10 .0 7 . Emerest 2452 5 . 5 8 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 1 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 5 . 0 1 0 . Borax 0 . 3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 12. Water 59.7

a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. Heat 9-12 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

Place wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 68C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package.

Weigh 1-0 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has

Mineral Oil Cream W/Out3

1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 3 . 0 2 . A-C Copolymer 540 1 . o 3 . Beeswax 2 . 0 4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 25 .0 5 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 3 . 0 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 9 . 4 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 3 . 5 0 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 2 9 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 7 . 0 10.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 0 . 3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 3 12.Magnesium S u l f a t e 0 . 3 13.Water 45 .0

a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 05C. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer or c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 77C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Cont inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aereate and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d Signal I n c . : Formula Ref 5011-22-1A/5011-22-4

Weigh 1 -3 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has

148 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

General Purpose W/O Cream

KtB 1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617A 2 . 0 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3 . 0 3 . Beeswax 2 . 0 4 . M i n e r a l O i l , 70 v i s . 1 5 . 0 5 . Dow F l u i d 334 9 . 5 6 . I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e 10.0 7 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 10.0 8 . A r l a c e l 83 5 . 5 9 . P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 0 . 1 1 0 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 7 . 0 11 .Borax 0 . 3 12 .Magnesi um S u l f a t e 0.3 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 14.Germal l 115 0 . 2 15 . Water 34 .9 Procedure:

a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-15 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 80C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. Re f : 501 1-31 -2

Weigh 1-9 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t

Oil-In-Water Cream and Its Scrub Derivative

1 . A-C 617 P o l y e t h y l e n e 2.0% 2 . S t e a r i c A c i d 0 . 5 3 . Lanogene ( l a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i l ) 6 .0 4 . I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e 12.5 5 . S o r b i t a n Monostearate 1 . 3 6 . Po lyoxye thy lene 20 S o r b i t a n Monostearate 1 . 8 7 . Sorbo ( s o r b i t o l 70%, water 30%) 5 . 0 8 . Carbopol 940 1 . o 9 . Gerrnaben I 1 0.8 10. Water 68.35 11 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 7 5 12.Perfume Q.S. Procedure:

Weigh 1-6, t h e n weigh 7 -10 . Heat 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n reaches 85C, hea t o i l phase t o 90-95C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n u n t i l a l l t h e wax has d i s s o l v e d . Combine 1-10 and shear u n t i l m i x t u r e i s homogeneous. Add 11 and shear w e l l . Cool t o 55C and add 12.

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Creams 149

General Purpose W/O Hand Cream

1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 .

A-C Po lye thy lene 61 7A Beeswax Amerchol L-101 Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 cs 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate Sorb i t o 1

Wt% 3 . 0 2 .0 5 . 0 1 . o

10.0 5 . 5 8 . 2 0 . 1 5 . 0

10.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 0 . 3 11.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 12.Germall 115 0 .3 13.Water 59 .4 Procedure:

Weigh 1-8 and heat t o 85-9OC w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t , a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85-9OC. Heat 9-13 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85-9OC.

and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 75C, t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aera te and package. Ref : 5189-4-10

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t

Oil-In-Water Cream

% 1 . A-C 540 2 .0 2. Dow Corn ing S i l i c o n e 344 3 . 0 3 . Lanogene 5 . 0 4 . S o r b i t a n Monostearate ( A r l a c e l 60) 1 .3 5 . Po lyoxye thy lene 20 S o r b i t a n Monostearate (Tween 60) 1 .E 6 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 7 . 0 7 . E s c a l o l 507 4.0 8 . Sorbo ( S o r b i t o l 70%) 5 . 0 9 . Carbopol 941 1 . o 10.Germaben I 1 0.8 11 .Water Balance 12 .T r ie thano lami ne (TEA) 0 .75 13.Perfume Q.S. Procedure:

Weigh 1-7, t hen weigh o u t 8-11. Heat 7-10 w i t h a g i t a t i o n u s i n g a c o l l o i d m i l l o r homomixer. When t h e aqueous s o l u t i o n reaches 856, heat 1-6 t o 95C. Combine 1-10 u n t i l w e l l mixed, t h e n add TEA and shear u n t i l a l l appears t o be homogeneous. Cool t o 55C and add perfume and package. SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

150 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Gentle Night Repair Cream

T h i s p r o d u c t encapsu la tes an a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t which can decrease t h e o x i d a t i o n of a p r e c i o u s compound t h e r e b y i n c r e a s i n g s h e l f l i f e and r e d u c i n g t h e chance of r a n c i d i t y . The emuls ion i s v e r y s t a b l e , q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n and leaves a s i l k y f e e l . O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 7.10% O z o k e r i t e Wax 160/164 (Kos ter Keunen) 2.20% L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) 7.60% I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 3.00% G l y c e r i n e Monostearate (Henkel ) 1.20% PEG-100 S t e a r a t e ( L i po) 1.00% E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.00%

V i t a m i n E (Roche) 0.10% V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 0.10% S a f f l o w e r O i l ( L i p o ) 2.00% L iquapar ( S u t t o n ) 0.50% Wheat Germ O i l ( L i p o ) 3.00% Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00% Propylene G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x ) 4.00% S i l i c o n e 200/100 (Dow) 2.00% Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 1 l e d ) 35.8% Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.30% Sodi um B o r a t e (Borax) 0.60% Carbopol 940 2% 10.00% A c t i v e Phase: Phenoni p (N i pa) 0.50% H y a l u r o n i c A c i d ( A c t i v e Organ ics) 1 .OO% F i r m i n g Liposome (Centerchem) 4.00% APT (Centerchem) 3.00% Procedure:

Heat t h e components o f t h e o i l phase, mix and m a i n t a i n a t a tempera ture o f 82C. I n a separa te vesse l d i s s o l v e t h e components o f t h e water phase w h i l e m i x i n g and i n c r e a s i n g t h e tempera ture t o 80C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase under moderate a g i t a t i o n , and c o o l s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . When a tempera ture o f 40C i s mixed, add phenonip. Cool t o 35C and add t h e t h r e e ac- t i v e s . Cool t o room tempera ture . Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

You can s u b s t i t u t e your p r e f e r r e d secondary e m u l s i f i e r and some o i l s w i t h o n l y s l i g h t changes t o v i s c o s i t y , g l o s s , e t c . The c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f Cera B e l l i n a (CTFA=Pg-3 Beeswax) can o n l y be s l i g h t l y a l t e r e d s i n c e i t h e l p s c o n t r o l c o n s i s t e n c y and t h e m i c e l l e s i z e and shape. The water s o l u b l e b i o l o g i c a l l y a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s a r e w e l l p r o t e c t e d i n t h i s t y p e o f emuls ion a l l o w i n g you t o i n c o r p o r a t e a wide range o f a c t i v e compounds. A fo rmula- t i o n o f t h i s t y p e i s n o t a f f e c t e d by i o n i c s t r e n g t h .

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

I n c r o p o l SC-20 (Croda) 4.00% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 4.00%

Creams 151

Glossy Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721s

B Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934

0-

10.00 4 .00

85.50 0 .10

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous) 0 . 1 0

D D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0

E Fragrance 0 .20

Procedure:

b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) . Add ( D ) when t h e tempera tu re drops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add wa te r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g

Glossy Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s B r i j 72

%w/w 12.00 4.00 2.80 2 . 2 0

B Water, d e i o n i zed 78 .80

C D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0

D Fragrance 0 . 1 0

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t -

a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add (D) a t 35C. Add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

152 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Glycolic Acid Cream

A r i c h cream w i t h t h e b e n e f i t s o f an alpha-hydroxy a c i d . I n c o r p o r a t i o n o f Geahlene 750 he lps m o i s t u r i z e t h e s k i n and g i v e s i t a r i c h , s i l k y a f t e r f e e l .

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: De ion i zed Water Maanesium Aluminum S i l i ca te /Veeaum U l t r a Xanthan Gum/Kel t r o l Methylparaben B u t y l ene G1 y c o l Te t rasod ium EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220

M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Bu ty lene /E thy lene / S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated E thy lene / Propy lene/Sty rene Copolymer//Geahlene 750

-

DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol C12-15 A 1 k y l Benzoate/Fi n s o l v TN Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 S t e a r i c A c i d/Emersol 132

D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germall I I G l y c o l i c Ac i d/G1 ypure 70%

Dei o n i zed Water Sodi um Hydrox ide

Wei qh t% 61 . O O

1 . o o 0 . 3 0 0.20 5 .00 0.10

9-00 2.00 5 .00 0 . 1 0 2 .00 4.00

0 .30 8 . 0 0

1 . o o 1 . o o

Procedure: D ispe rse Veegum i n r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d water ( p a r t A ) .

Add K e l t r o l . Heat t o 80C. Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a separa te con t - a i n e r , heat p a r t B t o 8OC and mix u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s - o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M ix f o r 30 minu tes u n t i l comp le te l y homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t C and mix w e l l . Add premixed p a r t D . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add f r a g r a n c e a t 30C i f d e s i r e d .

SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Creams 153

Hand and Body Cream

A r i c h , p r o t e c t i v e hand and body cream designed t o r e l i e v e dryness and l e a v e t h e s k i n s o f t and s i l k y smooth. Geahlene 750 p r o v i d e s l o n g - l a s t i ng moi s t u r i z a t i o n , a p e r c e p t i b l e c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t , and an e l e g a n t a f t e r f e e l .

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: De ion i zed Water Carbomer/CarboDol 940 Propylene G1 y c o l Methy lparaben Panthenol /DL-Panthenol

M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/ S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer//Geahlene 750

Propylene G l y c o l D i c a p r r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e / / M y r i t o 1 PC I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h c l / P r i s o r i ne 351 5 Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 Potass i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K Tocophery l A c e t a t e / V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e

Tr ie thano lamine, 99%

D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germal l I 1

Soy Lecithin/Sedermasome Fragrance

Wei u h t % 70.60 0.20 7.00 0.20 0 . 1 0

7 . 0 0 5.00 2.00 0 .10 2.00 2 . 5 0 1 . 7 5 0.10

0 .15

0 . 2 0

1 . 0 0 0.10

Procedure: D i sperse Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d dei o n i zed water . Add

remain ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 75-80C and mix u n t i l u n i - form and lump- f ree . Combine p a r t B . Heat t o 80C and mix u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A. M ix f o r 30 minutes w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t C . M ix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t D . Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t E . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.

SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

154 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

High Content Mineral Oil Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i 1, (Carna t ion brand)

B r i j 721s B r i j 72

w 70.00

3.70 3 .30

B Water, d e i o n i zed 22.60

C Sodium hyd rox ide (10% aqueous) 0 .10

D D o w i c i l 200 0.10

E Herbal f r a g r a n c e (SL 79-1224, P W ) 0.20

Procedure:

moderate anchor t y p e a g i t a t i o n and add ( C ) . Add ( D ) a t about 50C. Add (E) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula PC-9026

Heat (A) t o 65C and (B ) t o 60C. Add (A) t o ( 8 ) s l o w l y w i t h

O/W Pe t ro la tum Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s : A Pe t ro la tum, w h i t e

B r i j 721, POE 21 s t e a r y l e t h e r B r i j 72, POE 2 s t e a r y l e t h e r Dimethicone (350 c s . )

B Water, d e i on i zed Carbomer 934

%w/w 35.00 1 .oo 4.00 3.00

56.70 0.10

C NaOH, 10% aqueous s o l u t i o n 0.10

D Germal l I 1 0.10

Procedure:

anchor s t i r r i n g . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) below 50C. S t i r t o 35C and add any water l o s t due t o evapora t i on . Formula CP 1090

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suuuested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 72C. Add (B) to ( A ) w i t h moderate

Cream 155

Hydrocortisone CreamI n Q r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : Propy l ene G1 y c o l 5 .0 G l y c e r i n 2 . 5 Water 10.0 Hydroco r t i sone USP (0 .5 /1 . O ) Phase B: Water Q.S. P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Phase C : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 Me thy lg lucose D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 3 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 6 . 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) 5 .0 M i n e r a l O i l 5 .5 G1 y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Tegi n M) 1 .B S t e a r y l A1 coho1 0 . 8 C e t y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o Phase D: Fragrance Q.S . Procedure: 1. 2.

3.

4 .

5. 6 .

M ix Phase A t o d i s s o l v e t h e a c t i v e . Add t h e ba lance o f t h e water o f Phase B p l u s t h e p r e s e r v - a t i v e s . ( A l l o w f o r water l o s s d u r i n g manu fac tu r ing ) . Heat A/B t o 70C. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase C. M ix . M a i n t a i n tempera ture o f 70C. Begin c o o l i n g when f u l l y d i spe rsed . Beg in homogenizat ion a t 60C. Homogenize w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C Add f r a g r a n c e w i t h sweep m i x e r .

All Natural Cream (W/O type)

I nQred ien ts : Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 O lea te ( I s o l a n GO 33) 4.0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 1 .5 Beeswax 1.5 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 11 .5 Ce tea ry l Octanoate (Tegosof t L i q u i d ) 11 .5 Phase B: G1 y c e r i n 2 .5 D-panthenol 0 .5 Magnesium S u l f a t e 0 .5 Water 66 .5 Phase C: F ragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o a mix t a n k . Heat t o 80-85C

2. M ix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. Heat t o 65-70C. 3 . Add Phase 0 t o Phase A . Homogenize and coo l t o 40C w i t h m i x i n g 4 . Add t h e f rag rance . Cool and f i l l . SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

and d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. Cool t o 65-70C.

I56 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hydrogen Peroxide Cream

I n s r e d i e n t s : w A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed 6.00

A r l a c e l 60 2 .00 Tween 60 3.00

B Water, d e i o n i zed 71.72 Phenacet in 0.04 Disodium e thy lened ia rn ine te t ra -ace ta te d i h y d r a t e 0.10

C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 35% d i l u t i o n grade 17.14 D Phosphor ic a c i d , 10% C . P . , as r e q u i r e d

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (8) t o 72C. Add (B ) t o (A) s l o w l y

w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compen- s a t e f o r l o s t water due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add (C) . A d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 b y add ing ( D ) .

Hydrogen Peroxide Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l

A r l a c e l 40 Tween 40

B Water, d e i o n i zed C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e (10% d i l u t i o n grade) D Phosphor ic a c i d (10% C . P . ) as r e q u i r e d

w 10.00

2 .00 3 .00

17.14 67.86

Procedure:

w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t water due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add (C) . A d j u s t pH t o 3 .5 -4 .0 by adding (D) .

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (8) t o 72C. Add (8) t o (A) s l o w l y

Hydrogen Peroxide Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B Water, d e i o n i zed C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e (10% d i l u t i o n grade) D Phosphor ic a c i d (10% C.P.) a5 r e q u i r e d

A r l a c e l 165

%&y 10.00

2.50 70.36 17.14

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add (8 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

thorough a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C. w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t water due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (C) . A d j u s t pH t o 3.5-4.0 b y adding ( D ) .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Creams 157

Hydroxy Acid Cream(W/O Emuls ion)

I n g r e d i e n t s : w Phase A: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l

(and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 5 C e t y l Dimeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o Cyc 1 omet h i cone 5 .0 Isohexadecane 4.0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 5 .0 S t e a r y l Heptanoate (Tegosof t SH) 2.5 Beeswax 0 . 6 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 6 Phase 8 : Water 6 7 . 7 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 6 L a c t i c A c i d (44% S o l u t i o n ) 5 . 0 Sodium S a l i c y l a t e 1 . 5 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Sodium L a c t a t e (and) Sodium PCA (and) G l y c i n e (and)

F r u c t o s e (and) I n o s i t o l (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) L a c t i c A c i d ( L a c t i l ) 1 . o

Phase C: Fragrance Q . S . Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A i n a c l o s e d k e t t l e t o 85C, m i x i n g u n t i l

a l l components a r e f u l l y d i s p e r s e d o r s o l u b i l i z e d . When un i fo rm, c o o l t o 45-5OC.

2. Mix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o g e t h e r . Heat t o 40-45C. 3. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n (150-250

4. Homogenize a t 35-40C. 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e . RPM's). M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Moisturizing CreamCold Process

W/OI n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0

M i n e r a l O i l 5 .0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegosof t CT) 5 .0 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosof t M) 5.0 Phase 8 : Water 79.2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 .8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. Perfume Q . S . C o l o r Q.S. Procedure: 1 . M ix t h e o i l s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . M i x w e l l . 2. D i s s o l v e t h e

3 . Add Phase 6 s l o w l y i n t o Phase A w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 4 . Homogenize 5 . P r e s e r v a t i v e s , perfume and c o l o r can be added a t any t i m e . SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp.: Suggested Formula t ions

sodium c h l o r i d e i n t h e w a t e r . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

158 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Light Texture Hand Creme

T h i s h i g h humectant creme p r o v i d e s a non-greasy, l o n g l a s t i n g s o o t h i n g f e e l .

P a r t A : Phosphol i p i d SV S teare th-20 G1 ycer i n Methyl Paraben Water

P a r t 0 : Steare th -2 Ce tea ry l A l coho l Myr i s t y l My r i s t a t e F i n s o l v TN I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e D imeth icone (100 cS) Propy l Paraben

% BY Weiaht 3 . 0 0 0 .45 5 .00 0 .25

77.75

0 .80 3 . 5 0 3 .50 1 . 5 0 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 0.25

Procedure: Heat b o t h phases t o 65C, and homogenize t h e o i l phase i n t o

t h e water phase. S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f rag rance , c o l o r i n g o r p r e s e r v a t i v e

Th exce l n i g h t

s e legan t e n t rub o s k i n c a r e .

as r e q u i r e d .

Facial Moisture Creme

f o r m u l a t i o n p r o v i d e s h i g h mo f r e s i s t a n c e , and i s i d e a l l y

P a r t A : Phosphol i p i d SV S teare th-20 Methy l Paraben Water

P a r t 0 : Steare th -2 C e t e a r y l A l coho l Myr i s t y l My r i s t a t e I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Dimethicone (1OOcS) L a n o l i n A l coho l Propy l Paraben

Procedure:

s t u r i z a t i on, s u i t e d f o r ove r -

% BY Weiaht 3 . 0 0 0 .20 0 . 2 5

81 - 5 0

1 . 3 0 4 .00 4.00 4.00 1 - 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 .25

Heat b o t h phases t o 65C, and homogenize t h e o i l phase i n t o t h e water phase. S t i r - c o o l t o 40C and add f rag rance , c o l o r i n g o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , Inc . : P h o s p h o l i p i d SV: Suggested Formu 1 a t i ons

Creams 159

Mixed Alpha Hydroxy Acid Cream

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a v i scous f i r m cream, most a p p r o p r i a t e l y dispensed f rom a j a r . The a lpha hydroxy a c i d s (AHA's) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s fo rmu la c o n s i s t s o f M a l i c , C i t r i c and L a c t i c A c i d s . The t o t a l use l e v e l o f AHA's c o n t a i n e d i n t h e fo rmu la i s approximate- l y 8.5%. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a combina t ion a n i o n i c (Lexemul AS) and n o n i o n i c (Lexemul 561) emuls ion system.

A . De ion i zed Water Methylparaben (Lexgard M ) 2,4-D ich lo robenzy l A l coho l (Myacide SP) Propylene G1 y c o l USP

64.70 0.20 0 . 2 0 1 .00

E . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Lexemul AS) 4.00

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 2.10 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 3 . 0 0 C e t y l A l coho l NF (Ado1 52) 1 .oo Capry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 3 . 0 0 O c t v l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l EHS) 2 . 0 0

2 . 0 0 0 .10 0 . 1 0

Avocado O i l Tocopherol (Copherol 1300) Buty lparaben (Lexgard E )

C . De ion i zed Water M a l i c A c i d (Granu la r ) Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa S/SP 60%

4.50 0 .60 3 . 0 0 0.60 7 .90

Procedure: 1 .

2 .

3 .

4 . 5. 6 .

7 . 8.

Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. Use a p r o p e l l e r m ixe r f o r a g i t a t i o n . Combine s e c t i o n "B" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h a p r o p e l 1 e r mixer . When s e c t i o n s "A" & "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e des ignated tempera tures s l o w l y add "B' t o "A" t hen beg in c o o l i n g . Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p reven t v o r t e x i n g . A t 55-60C, add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-45C a d j u s t f o r water 1 O S S . Mix t o 30C. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 5 .00-5 .50 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium L a c t a t e .

Procedure: V i s c o s i t y : 10,000 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT TC @ 10 rpm).

pH: 4.8 @ 24C. 24 hour sample.

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical C o . : Formu la t i on 398-104-5

160 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Multi-functional Day Cream

T h i s Bee 's M i l k f o r m u l a t i o n c r e a t e s a b a r r i e r t h a t e f f e c t i v e l y r e p l e n i s h e s mois tu re , s o f t e n s and i m p a r t s r a d i a n c e . T h i s w i l l combat d r y s k i n caused by v a r i a t i o n s i n h u m i d i t y and w i l l h e l p t o m i n i m i z e t h e s i g n s o f a g i n g .

Water Phase I: Bermocol E 481 ( W h i t t a k e r ) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema) Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

O i l Phase: N i k k o l L e c i n o l S-10-M ( B a r n e t ) Squal ane (Po l y e s t h e r ) Macademia Nut O i l ( T r i - K ) Borage O i l ( T r i - K ) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) Kes ter Wax-62 ( K o s t e r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Kos ter Keun O z o k e r i t e 158/160 ( K o s t e r Keunen) Cera A l b a l a t e 103 ( K o s t e r Keunen) P h y t o g l y c o l i p i d ( B a r n e t ) L i q u i p a r ( S u t t o n )

Water Phase 11: Bee 's M i l k ( K o s t e r Keunen)

en 1

0.4% 2.7%

52.1% 0 .2%

2.1% 7.9% 4.3% 2.9% 0.3% 0.3% 1.0% 0 .2% 0.3% 0.3% 4.0% 1 . 0 %

20.0%

Procedure:

o i l phase components, heat t i l l 75C and m i x . Add s l o w l y t h e water phase I t o t h e o i l phase under a g i t a t i o n (approx . 700 rpm) m a i n t a i n i n g m i x i n g a tempera ture o f 75C f o r 5 minutes (make s u r e t h a t m i x i n g does n o t exceed 800 rpm's , as a phase i n v e r s i o n w i l l o c c u r ) . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 50-55C, add water phase I1 a t room temperature, under moderate a g i t a t i o n (approx. 200 r p m ' s ) , c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 5 minu tes and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r .

Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d t o g i v e t h i s p r o d u c t an

SPF o f 6-8 by u s i n g E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) a t approx imate ly 5% and r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f water and o r o i l s .

SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

M i x and h e a t water phase I components t o 75C. Add a l l t h e

Creams 161

Multi-Purpose Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l , C a r n a t i o n

S t e a r y l a1 coho1 B r i j 721s B r i j 72

"/ow/w 1 5 . 0 0

5 .00 2.50 2.50

B Water, d e i o n i zed 74.70

C D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0

D Fragrance 0.20

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 50C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) a t 35C Add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r

Versatile Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l coho

B r i j 721s

B Water, d e i o n Carbopol 934

zed

w 1 0 . 0 0

4.00

85.50 0 . 1 0

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous) 0 . 1 0

D D o w i c i l 200 0 . 1 0

E Fragrance 0 . 2 0

Procedure:

b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) when t h e tempera tu re drops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .5 .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g

162 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Night Cream (15% Aloe)

I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Water

Methylparaben Promul gen-D T r i e thano l ami ne

B. Ceraphyl-368 Kessco-653 Emerson-1 323 L i g h t M ine ra l O i l G l y c e r y l monostearate Propy lparaben Vybar-5013

C . A loe Veragel L i q u i d Concent ra te 1 :40

D . F ragrance

Aloe Bath Soap

I n n r e d i e n t s : Sodi um Laure th S u l f a t e (60%) D i sod i um Laure th Sul f o s u c c i n a t e

Percent 67.625

0 .2 2 . 0 0.75

1 0 . 0 3 .0 6 .0 6 .0 0 .05 2 .0 2.0

0.375

Percent 12 .0

7 . 0 Cocamidopropyl Be ta ine 6 .0 D i sod i um 01 eamido MEA Sul f o s u c c i na te 6 .0 A loe Veragel L i q u i d 1 : 1 5 . 0 C i t r i c A c i d q . s . t o pH 6 .0 Sodium C h l o r i d e q . s . t o 1M cps Water, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance 9.54. t o 100.0

Procedure: Add components t o water and hea t t o 40C. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y

w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e and p H w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add dye, p rese rv - a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e and coo l t o room tempera ture .

SOURCE: D r , Madi s L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Creams 163

Oil/Water Cold Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed

M ine ra l o i l Pe t ro la tum C e t y l a l c o h o l A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60

B G l y c e r i n T r ie thano lamine Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s

1 0 . 0 0 6 . 0 0 4.00 1 .oo 3.00 1 . 5 0

1 . o o 0 .60

72.90

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Pour a t s l i g h t l y more t h a n room tempera tu re . Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72'2. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h cons tan t

O/W Co ld Cream (Soap Free)

I n n r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

Be e s w a x Tween 40 A t l a s G-1726, beeswax d e r i v a t i v e

B Water, d e i on i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e

C *Perfume

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

?6wJy 5 0 . 0 0

7 .00 2 . 0 0 8 .00

33.00

Procedure:

moderate b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room tempera ture and package.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat ( B ) t o 77C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

164 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : O c t y l d ime thy l PABA M i n e r a l o i l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s B r i j 72 D imeth icone

Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940

Sodium hyd rox ide (10% W / W aqueous)

* P r e s e r v a t i v e *Fragrance

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

@yy 5.00 5 .00 0.50 2 .00 2.00 0.50

84.60 0 .20

0 . 2 0

Procedure:

65C and add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add (C) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C. Add (D) and any water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

D isperse Carbomer i n water and hea t (B) t o 60C. Heat (A) t o

Oil/Water Moisturizing Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s : O c t y l d ime thy l PABA Benzophenone-3 M ine ra l o i l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s B r i j 72 D i methi cone

Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940

Sodium hyd rox ide (10% W / W aqueous)

* P r e s e r v a t i v e *Fragrance

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

%B 7.00 3 .00 5 . 0 0 0 .50 2.00 2.00 0 .50

79.60 0 I20

0.20

Procedure:

65C and add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C. Add (D) and any water l o s t due t o evapora t i on .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

D ispe rse Carbomer i n water and hea t (B) t o 60C. Heat ( A ) t o

Creams 165

Oil/Water Night Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed

M i n e r a l o i l C e t y l a l c o h o l Beeswax Amerchol H-9 I s o p r o p y l 1 anol a t e A r l a c e l 165

B T r i e thano l ami ne P ropy l ene g l y c o l Water

C *Fragrance * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w 3 .00 3 .50 3 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 4.00 1 . 5 0 6 . 0 0

1 . o o 2 . 5 0

73,OO

Procedure:

moderate b u t t ho rough a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e a t 50C and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r u n t i l room tempera tu re .

Heat (A) t o 8OC. Heat ( B ) t o 85C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

W/O Night Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 1689

Ar lamol HD Ar lamol M812 Ar lamol DOA P a r a f f i n o i l A e r o s i l R972

B G l y c e r o l MgS04.7H20 * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

C Perfume R o c e l i a 74475

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s

3 .50 6 .00 2 . 0 0 2.00 8.00 0 . 5 0

4.00 0 . 5 0

73.35

0 . 1 5

Procedure: Heat phase (A) ( w i t h o u t A e r o s i l R972) t o 75C. S l o w l y add

A e r o s i l R972 w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Heat phase (B ) t o 75C. S l o w l y add phase (€3) t o phase (A) w h i l e s t i r r i n g t h o r o u g h l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e i n t e n s i v e l y . A l l o w t o c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( C ) and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

166 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil/Water Pigmented Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed

I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60

B Sorbo Propy lene g l y c o l T i t a n i urn d i o x i d e T a l c

C I r o n o x i d e Water

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w 12.00

1 - 0 0 2 . 0 0 1 - 0 0

3.00 12.00

2 .00 8 . 0 0

1 . o o 58.00

Procedure:

s l o w l y w i t h cons tan t a g i t a t i o n . Add ( D ) . Homogenize i f necessary .

Heat (A) t o 9OC and ( B ) t o 95C. Add (6) and ( C ) t o (A)

O/W All-Purpose Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : S t e a r i c a c i d Lanol i n Beeswax M ine ra l o i l Tween 85 A r l a c e l 85

Sorbo 70% s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i o n Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e

*Perfume

* q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .

%iw-/y 1 5 . 0 0

4 .00 2.00

23.00 1 . o o 1 - 0 0

12.20 41 .80

Procedure:

moderate b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room tempera ture and package.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat (6) t o 77C. Add (6) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Creams 167

Oil-in-Water-in-Oil Cream

O i 1 -i n-Water Phase: O i l Phase: Carna t ion M ine ra l O i 1 Pa ra f f i n C e t y l a l c o h o l Po lyoxye thy lene s o r b i t a n t r i s t e a r a t e D i g l y c e r i n monool ea te

Water Phase: B e n t o n i t e D e x t r i n P a l m i t a t e G1 y c e r i n Methylparaben Water

Add o i l - i n - w a t e r emuls ion t o t h e f o l l o w i n g o i l phase:

P a r a f f i n C e t y l A l coho l Beeswax S o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e S o r b i t a n monostearate Buty lparaben B e n t o n i t e D e x t r i n p a l m i t a t e Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1

15.00% 2 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 2.00

0 . 5 0 1 . 0 0 5.00 0 .10 29.80

5.00 3 .00 2.00 3 .00 1 . o o 0 . 1 0 0 . 5 0 1 . 0 0

25.00

Transparent Cleansing Cream

Di(po lyoxyethy1ene l a u r y l e t h e r ) phosphate sodium s a l t 5.00% G l y c e r y l t r i - 2 - e t h y l hexanoate 40 .00 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 20.00 G l y c e r i n 30.00 Water 5.00

SOURCE: W i t co Corp . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

168 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Protective Hand Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165

S t e a r i c a c i d P e t r o l a t u m Ar lamol HD Ar lamol E

B A t l a s G-2330 * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

o/,w/w 6.00 2 . 0 0 7 . 0 0

10.00 3 . 0 0

4 . 0 0

66.35

C Fombl in HC/R 1 . 5 0

D *Perfume, Bouquet Eau de Mer PC 916.315 0 .15

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat phases (A) and (6) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. Add phase (A)

s l o w l y o ( 6 ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Add phase (C) and homogen se f o r 1 m inu te a t 75C. A l l o w t o coo l w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogen se aga in a t 40C a f t e r t h e a d d i t i o n o f phase ( D ) . A l l o w t o c o o l down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g and package.

Hand Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

B r i j 721s B r i j 72 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

%w/w 8 . 0 0 2 . 4 0 2 . 6 0 4 . 0 0

B Water 82.80

C * P r e s e r v a t i v e

D Fragrance 0 .20

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) when t h e tempera tu re d rops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add wa te r t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . Formula S K - 5

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 8 ) t o 75C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g

Creams 169

Modified Oil-in-Water Stearic Acid Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed

Ar lamol E A r l a c e l 165

B Sorbo, s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n USP Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e

%m 8 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 5 . 0 0

1 0 . 0 0 75 I O 0

*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room tempera ture w i t h s t i r r i n g . Formula SK-2B

Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h r a p i d

Skin Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 1 6 5 , a c i d s t a b l e g.m.s.

Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 M i n e r a l o i l

B Propy lene g l y c o l Water, d e i o n i z e d

w 1 2 . 0 0

1 - 0 0 3 . 0 0 4 . 0 0

1 . o o 7 9 . 0 0

Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o evap- o r a t i o n .

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Hand Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed

I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e o r m i n e r a l o i 1 A r l a c e l 165

B Sorbo Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e

*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

y?y.y 20.00

2 .00 5 . 0 0

20 .00 5 3 . 0 0

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions

Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (6 ) t o 72C. Add (8 ) t o (A) r a p i d

170 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizer O/W Cream

T h i s p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s t h e minor components o f n a t u r a l p r o d u c t s t o d e l i v e r m i l d a n t i - m i c r o b i a l a c t i v i t y , which a l l o w s t h e f o r m u l a t o r t o reduce t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f s y n t h e t i c p res- e r v a t i v e s . The l i g h t y e l l o w c o l o u r e d cream q u i c k l y p e n e t r a t e s t h e s k i n , l e a v i n g a non-greasy f e e l and d i m i n i s h e s t h e s i g n s o f ag i ng by 1 a y i ng down a f 1 e x i b l e b a r r i e r .

O i l Phase: Orange Wax (Kos ter Keunen) NF Y e l l o w Beeswax (Kos ter Keunen) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Almond O i l ( A r i s t a ) M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) C e t y l s t e a r y l A lcoho l (P&G) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema)

Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) Propy lene G l y c o l (Dow) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) P o l y s o r b a t e 60 ( G a l l a r d & S c h l e s i n g e r ) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

4 . 5 % 2.5% 1 .O% 3.0% 3 . 5 % 6.0% 6.0% 2.5%

6 7 . 0 % 1 . 5 % 1 .O% 0.2% 0.5%

Procedure:

o i l phase a t 75C under a g i t a t i o n . Cont inue m i x i n g t i l l c o o l .

A d a p t a t i o n o f fo rmula and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

w i t h o u t a l t e r i n g t h e a e s t h e t i c s . Changing t h e t y p e s o f o i l s shou ld o n l y a l t e r t h e v i s c o s i t y , i f m a i n t a i n i n g s i m i l a r c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f o i 1 s. V i s c o s i t y changes a r e ach ieved by r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n of c e t y l s t e a r y l a l c o h o l and g l y c e r o l monostearate, by approx imate ly 30-40%, however t h i s may cause i n s t a b i 1 i t y .

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, Inc . : Suggested Formula t ions

Add a mixed and u n i f o r m water phase t o a mixed and u n i f o r m

A c t i v e s a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a p r o d u c t such as t h i s

Creams 171

Moisturizing Cream

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n demonstrates a p o l y m e r i c approach t o o c c l u s i v e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n e l i m i n a t i n g u n d e s i r a b l e f e e l prop- e r t i e s o f p e t r o l a t u m o r o t h e r t r a d i t i o n a l o c c l u s i v e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Epolene N-34 wax i s a n o n - e m u l s i f i a b l e p o l y e t h y l e n e which p r o v i d e s a f i l m t h a t i s r e s i s t a n t t o wash-o f f . I t i s i n c o r p - o r a t e d i n t o t h i s emu1 s i on w i t h Eastman AQ 55 w a t e r - d i s p e r s i b l e p o l y e s t e r which a l s o c o n t r i b u t e s a p r o t e c t i v e f i l m . The wash- o f f r e s i s t a n c e i s due t o t h e i n a b i l i t y o f Epolene N-34 t o be e m u l s i f i e d by soap o r s u r f a c t a n t s . The dual f i l m - f o r m i n g a c t i o n o f t h i s polymer combina t ion has been shown t o reduce m o i s t u r e l o s s . I n v i t r o o c c l u s i v i t y d a t a i s a v a i l a b l e .

Phase A : D i s t i 1 l e d water Propy lene g l y c o l , USP

m 9 , s . t o 100

4.00

Phase 8 : Polawax e m u l s i f y i n g wax, NF 3 . 0 0 A r l a c e l 165 g l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e and PEG-100 s t e a r a t e 3.00 Myvero l 18-06 d i s t i l l e d monoglycer ide 3 .00 I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e 5.00 Robane squalane, NF 5.00 Epolene N-34 p o l y e t h y l e n e wax 1 .oo Phase C: D i s t i l l e d water Propy l ene g l y c o l Eastman AQ 555 polymer

Phase D: Eastman v i t a m i n E TPGS (20%)

Phase E: Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e

10.00 3.00 1 .oo

1 . o o

q . s . 9 , s .

Procedure: 1 . Prepare Phase C by adding propy lene g l y c o l t o water and heat -

i n g t o 95C and t h e n adding Eastman AQ 55s w i t h m i x i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 70C.

2 . Heat Phase A w i t h m i x i n g t o 95C. 3 . Heat Phase B w i t h m i x i n g t o 105-llOC. 4 . Cool Phase 8 t o 95C and add t o Phase A w i t h p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g . 5 . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 70C, a v o i d i n g a i r ent rapment . 6. A t 70C, add Phase C. 7. Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l t o 5OC; t h e n add Phase D and Phase E . 8 . W i t h m i x i n g , f o r c e c o o l t o room tempera ture . Product w i l l

t h i c k e n and form a cream a t 44C. pH: 5.5

SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n X20491-089

172 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Neck Firming Cream

The neck i s t h e most n e g l e c t e d p a r t o f t h e body and shows t h e f i r s t v i s i b l e s i g n s o f ag ing . The p roduc t d e l i v e r s a c t i v e s t o t h a t a rea i n a c o s t e f f e c t i v e p roduc t which has e m o l l i e n t and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s t h a t f i r m s t i n y l i n e s . Cont inued use h e l p s promote t h e l o o k o f f i r m , r e s i l i e n t , s o f t , y o u t h f u l - l o o k i n g s k i n .

Phase A : Orange Wax (Kos te r Keunen) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF (Kos te r Keunen) Shea B u t t e r (Kos te r Keunen) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) M i n e r a l O i l (W i t co ) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) G l y c e r o l Monostearate ( K o s t e t Keunen) Squalane (Barne t ) P h y t o g l y c o l i p i d (Ba rne t ) C e t y l S t e a r y l A l coho l (P&G)

Phase 0 : Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich) T r ie thano lamine (Dow) G l y c e r i n (Uni chema) A loe Vera Gel ( A c t i v e Organ ics) Propy lene G l y c o l (Dow) Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n )

Phase C : E l a s t o s o l Animal Co l l agen & E l a s t i n (Croda)

3.0% 5.0% 3.0% 3.0% 5.0% 5.0% 1.5% 3.0% 2.0% 0.5%

57.9% 0.2% 0.4% 2.0% 0.5% 2.0% 1.0%

5.0%

Procedure: Weigh o u t m a t e r i a l s f o r Phase A, heat t o 8OC and mix t i l l

homogeneous. Heat Phase B t o 75C. w h i l e m i x i n g . Add Phase A t o Phase 0 under r a p i d a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C and add Phase C . Cont inue m i x i n g t i l l 35 t o 40C.

Adapt ion o f f o rmu la and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : Sunscreens a r e e a s i l y i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o a fo rmu la o f t h i s

t y p e . By reduc ing t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n o f water and o r t h e o i l s , E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) can be s u b s t i t u t e d a t app rox ima te l y 5% t o produce a SPF o f 6-8.

SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Creams 173

Night Cream, Non-Greasy

A . M i g l y o l 812 I m w i t o r 900 M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 370 I m w i t o r 375 C e t y l a l c o h o l F l u i l a n Emulan ODE 50

8 . G l y c e r o l Water

C . Perfume Prese rva t i ve

SS 18 .0 6 .0 5 . 0 6 .0 1 . o 1 . o 1 . o 1 . 5

6 . 0 t o 100.0

qs qs

P r e p a r a t i o n :

heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . C . i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t approx . 30C.

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 80-85C. 8 . i s

O/W Cream, with Bacteriostat

A . S o f t i s a n 601 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 829 S o f t i g e n 701 I m w i t o r 312 S o f t i s a n 649 S i l i c o n o i l 344 f l u i d

SS 20.0

8 . 0 5 . 0 5 .0 5 . 0 3 .0 1 . o

8 . Water t o 1 0 0 . 0

C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

P r e p a r a t i o n :

a r e heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . T h i s i s f o l l o w e d by s t i r r i n g u n t i l c o l d and i n c o r p o r a t i n g t h e perfume.

SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e heated t o 75-8OC. Those o f B.

Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

174 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Protective Face and Body Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Cocoa b u t t e r

P e t r o l a t u m and l a n o l i n a l c o h o l (Amerchol CAB) S t e a r i c a c i d XXX G l y c o l s t e a r a t e E t h y l d i h y d r o x y p r o p y l PABA (Amerscreen P) Methy l g luce th-20 s e s q u i s t e a r a t e (Glucamate SS 20) Propy l paraben

Water Methy l g luce th-10 (Glucose E-10) Quaternium-6 (Merquat 100) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

D i a z o l i d i n y l u r a (Germal l 1 1 ) Fragrance C o l o r ( O p t i o n a l )

B. A l o e Veragel (Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l )

C . Methy l paraben

Percent 5.00 3 .00 5 .00 8 .50 5.00 2.00 0.10

50 .00 17.50

1 .oo 1 .50 1 .oo 0 .10 0.30

q . s . q . s .

Produc t C h a r a c t e r i a t i c s :

p r o t e c t i on.

Procedure:

m i x i n g . L e t c o o l t o approx imate ly 45-5OC. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e system and f r a g r a n c e . SPF i s approx i mate1 y 8-1 0 .

Non-tacky cream w i t h good r u b - i n q u a l i t y and n i c e sun

Heat phase (A) and (B ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h

Eye Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A . Water

Carrageenan Gum Propylene G1 y c o l S o r b i c A c i d Glycamate SSE-20

G l y c e r y l Mono-Stearate Soybean O i l S teare th-20 C e t y l A l c o h o l S teara te-2 Glucate-SS

B . P e t r o l a t u m

C. A l o e Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l

Percent q . s . 0.1 5 . 0 0.05 1 . 5

1 5 . 5 4 .0 2 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 0.2 2.0 5 .0

Procedure: Heat Phases t o 8OC. Add Phase B t o A a t BOC. L e t mix u n t i l

b a t c h i s a t 55C. Add a l o e g e l t o b a t c h s l o w l y . . M ix and c o o l t o below 40C.

SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

Creams 175

Protective Face and Body Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A . O i l phase

M i n e r a l o i l Sweet Almond o i l Whi te P e t r o l a t u m G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e Whi te beeswax Tocopherol ( V i t a m i n E )

6 . A loe v e r a g e l (Veragel L i q u i d ) Magnesi urn alumi num s i 1 i c a t e (Veegum F) De ion i zed water O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA ( E s c a l o l 507) D i a z o l i d i n y l u rea (Germal l 1 1 ) Methy l Paraben Fragrance, c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e

Percent 13.50

3.00 13.50 5.50 3.50 3 .50 2.00

45.00 0.10 10.00 3.00 0 .35 0.15

9 . s .

Product C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :

a l l o w i n g t a n n i n g w i t h some p r o t e c t i o n .

Procedure: Decrease 0 . 1 (%w/w) Veegum i n 10 (%w/w) water a t b o i l i n g

tempera ture w i t h m i x i n g , t h e n l e t c o o l t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 70C. and add r e s t o f B (except f o r f r a g r a n c e ) and m a i n t a i n tempera ture . Heat ( A ) t o 70-75C., t h e n add (E) t o ( A ) w i t h m i x i n g . L e t c o o l t o 45C. Then add f r a g r a n c e , l e t c o o l f u r t h e r and package.

T h i s i s a good r u b - i n cream w i t h a SPF 6 ( a p p r o x i m a t e l y ) ,

Moisturizing Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A . M i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n o i l (Amerchol L-101)

Lanet h-5 I s o p r o p y l l a n o l a t e S t e a r i c a c i d XXX G l y c e r y l monostearate M i n e r a l o i l

6 . A loe v e r a g e l (Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l ) Propy lene g l y c o l T r i e thano l ami ne Propylene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u r e a (and)

methy l paraben (and) p r o p y l paraben (Germaben 11)

Procedure: Heat (A) and ( 6 ) s e p a r a t e l y t o 75 degrees C. M ix ( A )

u n i f o r m . Add (A) t o ( 6 ) w i t h c o n s t a n t s t i r r i n g and c o o l room tempera ture .

SOURCE: D r . Medis L a b o r a t o r i e s Inc . : Suggested Formulat

Percent 1 .oo 1 .oo 1 - 0 0 3.00 2-00 8.00

78.00 4.50 0.50

1.00

u n t i 1 t o

ons

176 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Rejuvenating Cream

I n q r e d i e n t s : A ) Cremophor A-6

Cremophor A-25 C u t i n a GMS Lanet te -0 S t e a r i c A c i d P a r a f f i n o i l C e t i o l SN Vase1 i ne w h i t e Abi 1-350

B) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d I m i dazol i d i n y l u rea Phenoni p G l ycer i n G l y c o l i c a c i d M a l i c a c i d Pentav i t i n Immucel l

C) Fragrance/Chiara 0/238927

% w/w 2,50 2,50 4,00 3,00 1 ,oo

10,00 5,00 3,00 0,40

55 I 60 0,20 0,50 3,00 2,00 1 ,oo 3,00 3,00 0,30

Procedure: Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f f a t t y phase A ) t o 70C. I n c o r p o r a t e i t e m ' s 11-15 i n water ( l o ) , a d j u s t t h e pH t o 4 . 5 .

Heat phase B) t o 75C. Under s t i r r i n g add phase B ) t o phase A), c o o l t o 50C, homogen-

Then add phase C) and s t i r c o l d .

Then i n c o r p o r a t e i tems 16 + 17.

i z e and c o o l t o 30C.

A p p l i c a t i o n No. A 032.0/11.94

W/O Night Repair Cream"cold procedure"

I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 A) P i o n i e r KWH-soft 2 B ) Water d e m i n e r a l i z e d 3 G1 y c e r i n 4 Magnesiumsulfat-7H20 5 Revi t a l i n 6 Hyasol 7 Phenoni p

9 C) Fragrance: 0/232511 B l a c k Dragon I 1 8 Euxy l K-200

% w / w 30,00 53,70

5100 0,50 5,00 5,00 0,30 0,20 0,30

Procedure: D i s s o l v e i t e m s 3-8 i n water ( 2 ) . Under v e r y good s t i r r i n g add phase B ) s l o w l y t o phase A ) F i n a l 1 y i n c o r p o r a t e phase C ) .

A p p l i c a t i o n No. B 006.0/04.93

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested A p p l i c a t i o n s

Creams 177

1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 2 . Coco B u t t e r 3 . C e t e a r v l A lcoho l & Ceteare th 20 4 . E m u l s i f y i n g wax N.F. 5 . S t e a r i c A c i d 6. G l y c e r y l Monostearate 7. G l y c e r i n E . Propy lene G l y c o l 9 . Acetamide MEA 100% 10.Tr ie thano lamine 11 .Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y

Silk Protein Skin Cream Wei a h t ,%

1 0 . 0

4 . 0 6 .0 1 . o 2 .8 2.0 2 .0 0 . 5 0 .2

2 . 0

d o p r o p y l / S i l k h y d r o x y - /Palmi to leam p r o p y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e )

12,Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) 13.Fragrance 14.Deionized Water

q s qs qs

Procedure: 1. M e l t 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9, i n a separa te c o n t a i n e r t o 75

degrees C. 2 . I n t h e m i x i n g t a n k heat t h e water t o 78 degrees C. add 10,ll. 3. S t a r t m i x i n g and add h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 9 s l o w l y w i t h

good a g i t a t i o n , mix f o r 20 minu tes t h e n s t a r t c o o l i n g . 4. Whi le m i x i n g add a t 50 degrees C . i t e m s 12 t h e n 13 and

mix u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s homogeneous. 5. Check pH and a d j u s t i f needed w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e or a c i d

s o l u t i o n t o 5.4-6.5. SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

Moisturizing Cream w/TritosolA b l e n d o f Polawax and I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS p r o v i d e t h i s

cream w i t h e x c e l l e n t s t a b i l i t y and mi ldness . The i n c o r p o r a t i o n o f T r i t i s o l a l l o w s t h e s k i n t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e , and a c t s t o c o n d i t i o n t h e s k i n . I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Polawax ( E m u l s i f y i n g Wax NF) I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behentr imonium M e t h o s u l f a t e

M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) P a r t 8 : Deion ized Water P a r t C: T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) Propy lene Q l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l

Paraben (and) Propy l Paraben*

(and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l )

- %

0.00

3.00 5.00

0.00

1 . oo

1 . oo Procedure:

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 70C. Heat P a r t 0 t o 70C. Add P a r t 0 t o P a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d fill tempera ture .

pH: 5 . 0 + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 11 . O O O + - 1 0 % *Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: Croda, Inc. : Formula SC-229

178 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-A

M a t e r i a l s : P a r t A : Deion i zed Water Rheol a t e 5000 Propy lene G1 y c o l P a r t B: Panal ene S i l i c o n e 7207 Promulgen D Ceraphyl 494 P a r t C : AMP P a r t 0 : Euxyl K-400 F i n s o l v TN E s c a l o l 507

Approximate V i s c o s i t y , cps: 15,000

Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-B

M a t e r i a l s : P a r t A : De ion i zed Water Rheol a t e 5000 Propy lene G l y c o l P a r t B: S i 1 i cone 7207 Ceraphyl 494 S t e a r i c A c i d C e t y l A l coho l Dow 200 F l u i d P a r t C : T r i e thano lamine P a r t D:

F i n s o l v TN Euxyl K-400

Approximate, V i s c o s i t y , cps: 45,000

%&yj

79.66 0 .3 0 . 5

8 .0 1 . o 1 . o 2 .0

0.24

0 .3 2 . 0 5 .0

% Y J

83.55 0 .3 2 . 5

2 . 0 1 . o 1 .75 1 .o 5 . 0

0 . 6

0.3 2.0

Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1. Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e

2. Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B, t hen heat t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Mix f o r 10 minu tes ,

4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e add ing P a r t D . Package a t Room Temperature.

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons TS-312

polymer t o t h e water , m i x i n g f o r 20 minu tes , t hen add ing t h e p ropy lene g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C.

t h e n add P a r t C.

Creams 179

Silky-Smooth Lotion/Cream-C M a t e r i a l s : %Jy& P a r t A : Deion i zed Water 78.16 Rheol a t e 5000 0 . 3 Propylene G1 y c o l 2 . 5 P a r t B: Panal ene 8 . 0 S i 1 i cone 7207 1 . o Promulgen D 0 . 5 Ceraphyl 494 2 . 0 P a r t C : AMP 0.24 P a r t D : Euxyl K-400 0 .3 F i n s o l v TN 2 .0 E s c a l o l 507 5 . 0

Manufac tur ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e

Approximate V i s c o s i t y , cps: 24,500

polymer t o t h e water , m i x i n g f o r 20 minutes, t h e n adding t h e propy lene g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C.

t h e n add P a r t C .

2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t B, t h e n h e a t t o 78C. 3. Add P a r t 6 t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Mix f o r 10 minutes,

4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e adding P a r t D. Package A t Room Temperature. Formula TS-312

Silky Smooth Cream Base I n a r e d i e n t : %w/w P a r t A : De ion ized Water 83.55 Rheolate 5000 0 . 3 Propylene G1 y c o l 2 .5 P a r t B: S i 1 i c o n e 7207 2.0 Ceraphyl 494 1 . o S t e a r i c A c i d 1.75 C e t y l A1 coho1 1 .o Dow 200 F l u i d 5 . 0 P a r t C: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 6 P a r t D: Euxyl K-400 0 .3 F i n s o l v TN 2 . 0 Manufac tur ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A by s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e

polymer t o t h e water , m i x i n g f o r 20 minu tes , t h e n add ing t h e propy lene g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C.

2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 8, t h e n heat t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Mix f o r 10 minu tes ,

t h e n add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e adding P a r t D. Package a t Room Temp-

e r a t u r e . Formula TS-331 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

180 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Cream

A . Squalane Beeswax A m i t e r LG-OD C e t y l Octanoate (Emalex CC-168)* Hydrogenated O i 1 (Emal ex S . T . G - R ) * Behenyl A l c o h o l P r o p y l e n e g l y c o l Monostearate G l y c e r y l Monostearate, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g

D i m e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) B u t y l paraben Amihope L L

G1 y c e r i n H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% aq. s o l n . ) Methylparaben Water *Nihon Emulsion Co.

(Emalex GMS-7CAE)*

B . CAE

Procedure: 1 . M ix ( A ) a t 2 . M i x (B) a t 3 . Add ( A ) t o 4 . M i x them w

Note : T h i s sk

8 0 C . 8 0 C . ( 6 ) . t h a homomixer, and t h e n c o o l s l o w l y t o 30C

n cream spreads w e l l .

Wt% 4 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0 3 . 0 4 . 0 1 . 5 1 . o

5 . 0 0 . 4 0 . 1 1 . o 0 . 5 5 . 0

1 0 . 0 0 . 2

58 .3

Skin Cream

A . L i q u i d Pe t ro la tum Cetanol Propy lene G1 y c o l Monostearate G l y c e r y l Monostearate, S e l f Ernulsi f y i ng (HLB 5 )

POE (10) Monostearate POE ( 3 0 ) Monostearate B u t y l Paraben Amihope LL

B . 1 ,3 -Buty lene G l y c o l Acy lg lu tamate HS-11 Methylparaben Water

(Emalex GMS-45RT; Nihon Emulsion Co. )

Wt% 1 7 . 0

3 . 0 1 . o

3 . 0 2 . 0 1 . o 0 . 1 5 . 0 5 . 0 0 . 3 0 . 2

6 2 . 4

Procedure: 1 . M i x (A) a t 80C. 2 . M ix ( € 3 ) a t 8 0 C . 3 . Add (B) t o (A) 4. M i x them w i t h a homomixer. 5 . Cool them s l o w l y t o 30C. Note : T h i s s k i n cream has l o w f r i c t i o n t o u c h a f t e r use.

SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Creams 181

Skin Cream with CAE and Amihope

I nqred i e n t s : W B Phase A : Squal ane 4 . 0 Beeswax 1 . o Ami te r LG-OD 2 . 0 C e t y l Octanoate* (Emalex CC-168) 3 .0 Hydrogenated O i l * (Emalex S.T.G.-R) 4 . 0 Behenyl A l coho l 1 . 5 S t e a r i c A c i d 3 . 0 Propy lene G l y c o l Monostearate 1 . o G l y c e r y l Monostearate S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (Emalex GMS-7 CAE)* 5 .0 M e t h y l p o l y s i l o x a n e (300 c . s . ) 0 . 4 B u t y l paraben 0 .1 Amihope LL 1 . o Phase 8: CAE 0 . 5 G1 y c e r i n 5 . 0 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (1% Aq. S o l n . ) 10.0 Methylparaben 0 .2 Water 58.3 Manu fac tu r ing Procedure:

Mix Phase A and hea t t o 80C. Mix Phase B and hea t t o 8OC. Add Phase A t o Phase B and homogenize. Cool s l o w l y t o 30C.

* N i hon Emu1 s i on Co. , L t d . , Japan Formula No. LC-7

Cleansing Cream

( 0 ) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Pet ro la tum Beeswax Lanol i n A1 coho1 Po lyoxye thy lene ( 5 ) G l y c e r y l I s o s t e a r a t e Po lyoxye thy lene ( 5 ) S t e a r y l E the r Po lye thy lene G l y c o l ( 5 0 0 ) D i s t e a r a t e S o r b i t a n Mono1 a u r a t e S o r b i t a n Monool e a t e A1 umi num Monostearate

Propy l ene G1 y c o l Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

(W) A j i dew N-50

Procedure: 1 . Suspend a1 umi num monostearate t o 1 i q u i d p a r a f f i n 2 . Add o t h e r (0) i n g r e d i e n t s t o t h e suspension. 3 . Heat (0) t o 95C t o d i s s o l v e . 4 . Heat ( W ) t o 85C. 5 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 6. Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE: Aj inornoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

pH: 5 .1

- W t % 21 . o

5 .0 10 .0

1 . 7 4 . 0 2 .5 1 . 6 0 . 2 0 . 4 2 . 0 3 .0 3 .0

4 5 . 6 q . s .

182 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Care Cream

T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y appearance, though t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s which a r e h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s . The f o r m u l a a l s o w i l l h e l p reduce t ransep idermal water l o s s .

O i l Phase: C e t y l s t e a r y l A1 coho1 161 8 (P&G) NF White Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) Propy lene G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Coconut O i l (CocoChem) Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Water Phase: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) G l y c e r i n e (UniChema) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (CMC, Hercu les) Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich) Sodi um B o r a t e (Borax) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

4.50% 2.50% 3.00% 5.00% 1.50% 0.50% 1.25% 0.20%

74.25% 5.50% 0 I 30% 0.60% 0.40% 0 I 30% 0.20%

Procedure: Add t o t h e water phase under a g i t a t i o n , i n o r d e r ; CMC u n t i l

e v e r y t h i n g i s d i s s o l v e d t h e n methy l paraben w h i l e m i x i n g . Then add carbopo l , mix t i l l homogeneous making s u r e t h e r e a r e no agg lomera t ions . Add t h e remainder o f t h e water phase components, mix and heat t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C and mix . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase under a g i t a t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a tempera ture o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase i s added, c o o l and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r .

Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

ene g l y c o l d i o c t a n a t e by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5% E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f 6-8. The p r o d u c t has t h e same appearance, s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y . Fragrances can a l s o be added w i t h o u t a f f e c t i n g i t s t e x t u r e .

SOURCE: K o s t e r Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l by 2.0%, p r o p y l -

Creams 183

Soft Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol I S M L

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s ) Ar lamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72

B Water, de ion i zed Carbopol 934

C Sodium hyd rox ide (10% aqueous)

D P r e s e r v a t i v e

E *Perfume

*q .s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w 4 .00 1 . o o 0 .50 1 . o o 2.25 2 . 2 5

8 8 . 1 0 0 . 4 0

0 . 4 0

0.10

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add ( D ) below 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h moderate

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Jo joba O i l

B r i j 72 B r i j 700 S t e a r y l a1 coho1

B Water, de i on i zed

C D o w i c i l 200

Jojoba Oil Cream

1 0 . 0 0 2 .70 1 . 3 0 4 .00

81 - 9 0

0 . 1 0

D *Perfume

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) a t about 50C and ( D ) a t about 45C. Add water a t 35C t o compensate f o r loss due t o evapora- t i o n . Package. Formula PC-7158

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 60C and (B) t o 65C. Add (B) t o ( A ) u s i n g prop-

184 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Vanishing Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol ISML S t e a r y l a l c o h o l S i l i c o n e o i l (350 c s ) Ar lamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72

Water, d e i o n i zed Sorbo Carbopol 934

Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aqueous)

Germal l I 1

Herbal Fragrance SL 79-1224, PFW

%w/w 10.00 4 .00 0 .50 3 .00 2.00 3 .00

72.90 4 .00 0 .20

0 .20

0 . 1 0

0 . 1 0

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) below 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) w i t h moderate

Vanishing Cream

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol I S M L

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s . Ar lamol E B r i j 721 B r i j 72

B Water Sorbo, 70% Sorb i t o 1 s o l u t i on Carbopol 934

C NaOH (10% aqueous)

D D o w i c i l 200 p r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume

*q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

nw/w 1 0 . 0 0

4.00 0.50 3 . 0 0 2.65 2 .35

73.00 4.00 0 .20

0 .20

0 .10

Procedure:

72C and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add (D) and r e p l a c e wa te r l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

D ispe rse Carbomer i n wa te r and hea t (B) t o 70C. Heat (A) t o

Creams 185

Vanishing Cream

Phase 1 : Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 573 Amerlate P Emerest 2314 Emerest 2316 G l y c e r y l Monostearate SE

Phase 2 : Water Emery 916 Pure G l y c e r i n e T r ie thano lamine Fragrance Prese rva t i ve

P a r t s bv Weight 8 . 0

12.0 1 .o 1 . o 1 . o 0 .5

99.0 8 . 0 1 .2 q . s . q . s .

Procedure:

t o tempera ture o f 170F w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When t h e tempera ture i s reached add phase 1 t o 2 w i t h c o n t i n u e d a g i t a t i o n c o o l i n g t o 120F t o package. Fragrance may be added t o t h e p roduc t as i t i s c o o l i n g .

I n separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e s hea t b o t h phase 1 and 2

Ross Cold Cream Formulation with Jojoba Oil

P a r t A : Ross Beeswax S u b s t i t u t e 628/5 Ross F u l l y Re f ined P a r a f f i n Wax 150/160 M i n e r a l O i l 80/90 G l y c e r o l Monostearate S . E . Ross Jo joba O i l

P a r t B: Borax Water Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e

%! 11 . o

2 .0 45 .5

0 .3 2 . 0

0 . 8 38 .4

q . s . 9 , s .

Procedure: Heat P a r t A t o 170F and a g i t a t e . Heat P a r t B t o 170F and

a g i t a t e . Cool t o 160F and add P a r t A t o P a r t 0 a t 160F w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Cool s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n and pour a t 11OF.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

186 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O Cream with Eldew

I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: % bv we igh t P a r t A : D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , beheny l , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N-Lauroy l -L -g lu tamic a c i d es ter /E ldew CL-301 2 . 0 C e t e a r y l Octanoate 8 .0 C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate 5 . 0 Phenoxyethanol 0 .60 Tocophery l Ace ta te 0.05 P a r t 8 : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Ce ty l Dimethi cone

C e t y l Dimethicone 2 .00 P a r t C : De ion i zed Water 68.55 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 5 .00 P a r t i a l l y Deace ty la ted C h i t i n (1 .O%)/Marine Dew PC-100 2 .00 P a r t D:

Bu ty lene G l y c o l 0 .80

Procedure:

A . Pre-mel t p a r t D by h e a t i n g t o 50 degrees C . Add t o p a r t C . S low ly add p a r t C and D m i x t u r e t o p a r t s A and B w i t h h i g h shear m i x i ng .

Copo lyo l (and) Hexyl Lau ra te 5.00

Methylparaben 0 . 2 0

Pre-mel t p a r t A a t 50 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add p a r t B t o p a r t

Appearance: White, smooth, sh iny l o t i o n pH: 6 .0 -6 .5 V i s c o s i t y : 20,000-20,000 (RVT #6 @ lOrpm @ 25 degrees C )

Cleansing Cream

L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) Squal ane I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e C e t y l A l coho l N i k k o l WCB S o r b i t a n Monostearate Po lyoxye thy lene (15 ) C e t y l E the r A j i dew T-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2. Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h s t i r r i n g . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

pH: 5 . 7

- W t % 35.0 10.0 2 .0 3 . 0 1 . o

10 .0 2 . 4 2 .6 3 . 0

31 . O 0 . s .

Creams 187

90% Water Cream

Water Carbomer 934 Pro tox T-25 Rosswax 63-041 2 Rosswax 1824 GMS SE Coconut O i l #76 Jo joba O i l T r i e thano lamine Germaben I I E Fragrance GK-21

P a r t s by Wei a h t 450. 0Gr .

2.OGr. 1 . Q G r . 4.OGr.

16.OGr. 4.OGr.

16.OGr. 4.OGr. 4.OGr. 6.OGr. q.s.

Procedure: D isperse t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e wa te r , on a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l

v e s s e l . I n a separa te vesse l m e l t t h e O i l Phase. When t h e O i l Phase i s me l ted add i t t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Next add t h e f rag rance , t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e and l a s t add t h e T r i e t h a n o l - amine w i t h i nc reased a g i t a t i o n .

Soft & Silky Vanishing Cream

P a r t ( A ) : Rosswax 63-0412 Rosswax 573 Ross L o t i o n O i l 2745 GMS-SE

P a r t ( B ) : Water Propy lene G1 y c o l T r i e thano l ami ne Germaben I 1

P a r t ( C ) : Fragrance

P a r t s bv Weight 8 . 0 10.0

8.0 0 .5

97.0 8 . 0 2 . 0 1 .2

q . s .

Procedure:

k e t t l e s under a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y heated add P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t (B ) under a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, Fragrance and package.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . R o s s C o . , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) t o 170F i n separa te steam j a c k e t e d

Section VI Hair Care Products

188

Hair Care Products 189

"Arctic Mist" Spray Gel

T h i s water w h i t e , c l e a r , sp rayab le g e l uses D ia fo rmer 2-301 t o p r o v i d e e x c e l l e n t h o l d , c l e a r f i l m s , and no f l a k i n g . I t e x h i b i t s good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . Sandoxylate SX-424 i s used as a f r a g r a n c e s o l u b i l i z e r .

I n g r e d i e n t s ~ : QW De ion ized Water 91 .80 Carbopol 980 0 .30 NaOH 10% 0 .40 D i a former 2-301 6.95 G l y c e r i n 0.10 D i sodi urn EDTA 0 . 0 5 Sandoxylate SX-424 0 .25 Fragrance 0 . 0 5 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0 . 1 0 Procedure:

homogeneous. Add NaOH 10% t o n e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbopol 980. Mix w e l l . Add D ia fo rmer 2-301 and G l y c e r i n one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i ng. Add D i sod i um EDTA. P reso l u b i 1 i ze f r a g r a n c e i n Sandoxy- l a t e SX-424 and add t o b a t c h . M i x w e l l . A d j u s t pH as needed w i t h NaOH 10%. P r o p e r t i e s :

pH: 6 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 12,000-14,000 cps. Appearance: Water w h i t e , c l e a r g e l

Add Carbopol 980 t o water w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n and mix u n t i l

Formul a t i on CHF-20

Super Hard Hold Hair Spray

D i a h o l d A-503 i s used t o c r e a t e t h i s super h a r d h o l d h a i r spray t h a t meets t h e 80% VOC requ i remen ts . I t s a b i l i t y t o fo rm hard, c r y s t a l c l e a r f i l m s r e s u l t i n a h a i r spray t h a t has good g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t h o l d on t h e h a i r . D i a h o l d A-503 i s a l s o e a s i l y removed f rom t h e h a i r by shampooing.

I n a r e d i e n t s : yawJJ D i a h o l d A-503 1 7 . 5 0 Dei o n i zed Water 12.70 Dow Corn ing 190 0 . 1 0 SD 40 A lcoho l 69.50 Lauramide DEA 0 .10 Fragrance OS Procedure:

Add D i a h o l d A-503 t o a l c o h o l w i t h m i x i n g . Add wa te r and mix w e l l . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . P r o p e r t i es :

Appearance: Pa l e Ye1 1 ow L i q u i d pH: 8.2-8.6

F o r m u l a t i o n CHF-18

SOURCE: Sandoz Chemicals Corp. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

190 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Balsam Conditioner

Weiqht .% Mackine 301 ( S t e a r a m i d o o r o w l Dimethy lamine) 1 . 6 . _ Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) Phosphor ic A c i d (85%) Sodium C h l o r i d e Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Balsam o f Peru Water, Dye qs t o

1.8 0 . 9 0 .3

qs qs

100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t f o u r components t o water and heat t o 70 degrees

2. 81 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add Mackstat DM and Balsam o f Peru. 4 . Cool t o room tempera ture and f i l l .

C .

Clear Conditioner with Wheat Germ Cationic

Weinht,% Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimethy lamine

L a c t a t e ) 1 . o N a t r o s o l 250 HHR 1 . o Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Fragrance, Dye, qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 I Complete ly d i s p e r s e N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r . 2 . Heat t o 45 degrees C . and add Mackalene 716. 3. A d j u s t pH t o 5 .0 w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 4 . When p r o d u c t i s c l e a r , add remain ing components. 5 . Cool and f i l l .

Clear Leave-On Conditioner

Weiqht,% Mackalene 426 ( I s o s t e a r a m i d o p r o p y l Morpho l ine L a c t a t e ) 6 .0 N a t r o s o l 250 HHR 1 . o Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Deion ized Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1. Complete ly d ispense N a t r o s o l i n w a t e r . 2 . Add Mackalene 426 and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 3. Heat t o 40 degrees C . and add remain ing components.

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

Hair Care Products 191

Birch Hair Lotion

Ethano l 96% B i r c h (wa te r ) Speci a1 S o f t i g e n 767 M a r l a z i n KC 3 0 / 5 0 A1 1 a n t o i n V i tam in F Pant henol Water

5 0 . 0 5 . 0 5 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 2 0 . 2 0 . 2

t o 1 0 0 . 0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Invigorating Hair Lotion

Isopropano l S o f t i g e n 767 Marlowet R 40/K Menthol Camphor S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Spec ia l Perfume Water

W S 4 5 . 0 3.0 1 . o 0 . 2 0 .05 1 . o qs

t o 100 .0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Hair Conditioner

A . M a r l a z i n KC 30/50 C e t y l a l c o h o l Marlamid M 1218 C e l l o s i z e QP 100 MH Water

6 . Perfume Co lour P rese rva t i ve

Preparat i on : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and

s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f B. a r e added t o A . a t approx . 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 .

SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Formulat ions f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

192 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Brushing Gel

A .

B .

C .

Amihope LL POE (20) S o r b i t a n POE (20 ) S o r b i t a n POE (25) G l y c e r y l P ropy l ene G1 y c o l Grape Seed O i l

Mono1 a u r a t e Monostearate

Wt% 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 5

Monopyroglutamate Mono isos teara te 1 . o 2 . 0 0 . 5

Carboxyv iny l Polymer (Carbopol 940) ( 1 . O w t % s o l u t i o n ) 50 .0 Dei o n i zed Water ba lance P r e s e r v a t i v e s 0 .2

10% w t . NaOH S o l u t i o n 2 .0

Procedure: 1 . Weigh each i n g r e d i e n t (A) i n g l a s s vesse l and m ix . 2 . Add ( 8 ) t o t h e fo rmer m i x t u r e and hea t t o 70-8OC w i t h

3 . A f t e r d i s s o l u t i o n , coo l down t o room tempera ture . Then add s t i r r i ng .

(C) t o t h e mixed s o l u t i o n and i t t u r n s t o g e l s t a t e .

Note:

combing and leads t o smooth combing. T h i s b r u s h i n g g e l reduces an e l e c t o s t a t i c charge produced by

Hair Brushing Lotion

Amihope LL POE (20) S o r b i t a n Mono laura te (Po lyso rba te 2 0 ) Water E thano l

Procedure: Mix a l l components a t room tempera ture .

Wt% 1 . o 1 . o

50.0 48.0

Note:

smoothness f o r t h e h a i r .

c a t i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t .

Usage:

SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n has good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and

Amihope L i a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g agent i n s t e a d o f t h e

Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .

Hair Care Products 193

Brushing Lotion

Wt% A . AmihoDe LL 0 . 5

PO€ ( 2 0 ) S o r b i t a n Monolaurate 1 .5 POE (25) G l y c e r y l Monopyroglutamate Mono isos teara te 1 . o Propy l ene G1 y c o l 2 . 0

€3. S t e a r y l A lcoho l 0 .5 Carboxyv iny l Polymer (Carbopol 941 ) 1 5 . 0

De ion ized Water ba lance P r e s e r v a t i ves 0 . 2

(0 .5wt% s o l u t i o n ; n e u t r a l i z e d by NaOH)

C . Prodew 100 Ethanol

0 .2 5 .0

Procedure: 1 . Weigh each i n g r e d i e n t (A) i n g l a s s vesse l and m i x . 2 . Add (B) t o t h e fo rmer m i x t u r e and heat t o 70-8OC w i t h

3 . A f t e r d i s s o l u t i o n , c o o l down t o 50C. Then add ( C ) t o t h e

4 . With s t i r r i n g , c o o l down t o room tempera ture .

Note :

by combing and l e a d s t o a smooth combing.

s t i r r i ng.

m i xed s o l u t i on.

T h i s b r u s h i n g l o t i o n reduces an e l e c t r o s t a t i c charge produced

Hair Rinse

A . Cetanol A m i t e r LGOD-2

Wt% 3 . 0 5 .0

G l y c e r y l Monostearate, S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g (HLB 1 1 ) 2 . 0 Amihope LL 3 .0

0. 1 , 3 - B u t y l e n e g l y c o l Stearyltrimethylammonium Chor ide Methy lparaben Water

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e (A) a t 8OC. 2 . D i s s o l v e (B) a t 8OC. 3 . Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) . 4 . M ix them w i t h a homomixer, and c o o l t o 30C.

Note:

SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

T h i s creamy h a i r r i n s e has l i g h t f i n i s h i n g t o u c h .

5 .0 3 .0 0 . 2

t h e r e s t

194 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear Conditioner

C o n d i t i o n i n g p l u s f i l m c l a r i t y maximizes t h e n a t u r a l beauty o f t h e h a i r .

I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . Hyd roxye thy l C e l l u l o s e ( N a t r o s o l

250 HHR) 2 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 3 . Propy lene G l y c o l 4 . EDTA 5 . Ammonyx KP (O lea lkon ium C h l o r i d e ) 6 , Po lyqu ta 400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 7 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 8 . R i tapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 9 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 10.Fragrance #189-724 11.Kathon CG

w 0.80

84.32 5.00 0 . 1 0 6.00 1 . o o 0 . 7 5 1 . o o 0 . 8 0 0 . 2 0 0 . 0 3

F u n c t i o n

V i s c o s i t y

Humectant C1 a r i t y C o n d i t i o n i n g Combing C o n d i t i o n i n g Body C l a r i t y Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e

- - - - - - - - -

Compounding Procedure: I n 60% o f t h e water d i s s o l v e i t e m 1 . Add i t e m 3, mix u n t i l

c l e a r . Add i t e m 4 and m i x . I n a separa te beaker d i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n rema in ing w a t e r . M ix u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s 5,7 and 8 i n o r d e r . Combine and add i t e m 9 . Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e .

R e f . No. 118-125

Light Hair Conditioner

A c o n d i t i o n e r des igned f o r normal / o i 1 y h a i r t o maxi m i ze c o m b a b i l i t y and m a n a g e a b i l i t y . Helps keep h a i r c l e a n e r l o n g e r

I n g r e d i e n t s : w F u n c t i o n 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3 .50 E m u l s i f i e r , T h i c k e n e r 2 . Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 2 . 0 0 C o n d i t i o n e r 3 . Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d 2 . 0 0 S i l k y F e e l ,

4 . R i t a p r o 200 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2.00 E m u l s i f i e r 5 . C i t r i c A c i d @ 100% 0 .05 pH A d j u s t e r 6 . G lydan t 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e 7. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water go 25 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Compounding Procedure:

CTAC and R i t a p r o 200 and hea t t o 70C. S l o w l y add pre-mix t o water phase and a g i t a t e . Wh i le m i x i n g c o o l t o 45-5OC. Add G lydan t and Dow Corn ing .

L u b r i c a t i o n

Heat wa te r and C i t r i c A c i d t o 65C. Pre-mix R i t a CA, R i t a -

Re f . No. 116-166

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Hair Care Products 195

Clear Gel Hairdressing

I nq r e d i en t s : A M ine ra l o i l , Naphthenic, Drako l 10B

B r i j 97 A r l a t o n e G Propylene g l y c o l Sorbo

B Water, d e i on i zed

C *Perfume #44575, F r i t z s c h e B r o t h e r s

13.70 1 5 . 5 0 1 5 . 5 0 8 . 6 0 6 .90

39.80

f q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .

Procedure:

Cool t o 70C and add (C) . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and pour w h i l e s t i l l f l u i d .

Heat (A) and ( 8 ) t o 9OC. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .

Water/Oil Hair Dressing

I n q r e d i e n t s : A Pet ro la tum

Mine ra l o i l Lanol i n A r l a c e l 83 Beeswax Z inc s t e a r a t e

B Borax Water, d e i o n i z e d

C *Fragrance and P r e s e r v a t i v e

*q. s , these i n g r e d i e n t s .

%&yl 7.50

37.50 3 .00 3 .00 2 . 0 0 1 .oo

0 . 5 0 45.50

Procedure:

moderate b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat ( B ) t o 77C. Add ( 8 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

room tempera ture and package.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

196 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear 'N' Natural Conditioner

T h i s c l e a r c o n d i t i o n e r a c q u i r e s i t s v i s c o s i t y f rom t h e s u p e r i o r t h i c k e n i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f C r o t h i x * .

P a r t A : Oeioni zed water 8 7 . 5 Crovo l PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm Kernel G l y c e r i d e s ) 3 . 0 P a r t E : P r o c e t y l AWS (PPG-5 Cete th 20) 3 . 0 C r o t h i x * (PEG-150 P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a s t e a r a t e ) 2 .0 P a r t C : I n c r o q u a t 0-50 (Olealkonium C h l o r i d e ) 2 . 0 I n c r o q u a t EA-85 (Babassuamidopropalkonium C h l o r i d e ) 0 . 5 P a r t D : T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% qs t o pH 6 P a r t E: Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l

Paraben (and) Propy l Paraben** 1 . o H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino Ac ids) 1 . o Procedure:

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A and heat t o 80-85C. When P a r t A i s homogeneous, add P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l b a t c h t o 30-35C. A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0+-0 .5 u s i n g P a r t 0. Add P a r t E w i t h m i x i n g .

covered under U . S . Pa ten t #5,192,462.

I n a r e d i e n t s : 3

**Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved

Formula HP-165

*The use o f C r o t h i x i n cosmet ic and o t h e r f o r m u l a t i o n s i s

Cream of Wheat Conditioner

T h i s c o n d i t i o n e r g i v e s e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g / m o i s t u r i z i n g c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s . I n e r e d i e n t s : 96 P a r t A : Pol awax (Emu1 s i f y i ng Wax NF) 5.00 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behentr imonium M e t h o s u l f a t e

(and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3 .00 Super R e f i n e d Wheat Germ O i l (Wheat Germ O i l ) 2 .50 P a r t E: De ion ized Water 85.50 P a r t C : Cropept ide W (Hydro lyzed Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat

01 i g o s a c c h a r i d e s ) 3 .00 Germaben I 1 1 .oo Procedure:

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75C. Heat P a r t B t o 75C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s f rom P a r t C s e q u e n t i a l l y w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture .

p H : 4.5+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 50,OOOcps+-lO% N.A.T.C. Approved Formul a HP-164

SOURCE: Croda Inc.: Suggested Formula t ions

Hair Care Products 197

Conditioner and Setting Lotion

Wei a h t , % Mackalene 316 (Stearamidopropyl Dimethy lamine L a c t a t e ) 4 . 0 Gafquat 755 8.0 Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 . 5 Uacks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Complete ly d i s p e r s e Gafquat 755 i n w a t e r . 2 . Add Mackalene 316 and Mackol 16 and h e a t t o 70 degrees C. 3. 61 end u n t i 1 c o m p l e t e l y homogeneous. 4 . Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add remain ing components. 5. Coo1 and f i l l I

Curl Conditioner and Oil Sheen

Wei Qht ,% G l y c e r i n e 4 7 . 0 Propylene G l y c o l 3 . 0 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 4 . 0 Mackanate DC-30 (Disodium Dimeth icone Copolyo l

Su l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 3 .0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Deion ized Water qs t o 100 .0

Procedure: Add comDonents i n o r d e r and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

Foaming Conditioner

Wei a h t , %

Mackalene 116 (Cocamidopropyl Dimethy lamine L a c t a t e ) 1 5 . 0 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 4 . 0 N a t r o s o l 250 HHR 0.7

Mackam 35 (Cocami dopropy l B e t a i ne ( V i a Gl y c e r i de) 1 0 . 0

Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Thoroughly d i s p e r s e t h e N a t r o s o l i n water and h e a t t o 45

2 . Add Mackam 35, Mackalene 116 and Mackpro NLP. 3 . Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 4 . Add Mackstat DM, f r a g r a n c e and dye. 5 . Cool and f i 11.

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

degrees C .

198 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioner with Croquat HHT h i s creamy w h i t e c o n d i t i o n e r o f f e r s t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y

b e n e f i t s of q u a t e r n i z i n g w i t h t h e permanant c o n d i t i o n i n g p o t e n t i a1 o f a c y s t e i ne-conta i n i ng p r o t e i n .

P a r t A : I n c r o q u a t S-85 (S teara lkon ium C h l o r i d e ) 1 .50 Pol awax (Emuls i f y i ng Wax NF) 4.50 Crodacol CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . 6 0 Crodamol W ( S t e a r y l Heptanoate) 6.50 I n c r o c a s 40 (PEG-40 Castor O i l ) 2 .75 P a r t 8 : Dei o n i zed Water 75.15 P a r t C : Croquat HH (Cocodimonum Hydroxypropyl Hydro lyzed H a i r

K e r a t i n ) 3 .00 P a r t D: Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l

Paraben (and) Propy l Paraben* 1 . o o

Heat P a r t B t o 75-80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g , w h i l e a v o i d i n g a e r a t i o n , and c o o l t o 55C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add P a r t D w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o des i r e d f i 11 tempera ture .

I n n r e d i a n t s : 3

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75-80C.

pH: 4 .0+-0 .5 V i s c o s i t y : 35,000+-10% ( @ 25C) * Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved Formula HP-172

High Performance Creme Rinse ConditionerT h i s f o r m u l a t i o n g i v e s e x c e l l e n t c o n d i t i o n i n g t o h a i r .

I n a r e d i e n t s : % P a r t A : Crodafos CES ( C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) C e t e a r y l phosphate) 6.00 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behentr imonium M e t h o s u l f a t e (and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 - 0 0

Propy l paraben 0 . 1 0 Volpo S-2 ( S t e a r e t h - 2 ) 0 .50 Crodacol C-70 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 .00 Crodamol PTIS ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e ) 1 .oo P a r t B: De ion i zed Water 87.98 Incromectan t LAMEA (Acetamide MEA (and) Lactamide MEA) 1.00 Methy l paraben 0.10 P a r t C: TEA 99% 0.32

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 65-70C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Cont inue m i x i n g and add P a r t C. Cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture .

pH: 4.50+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 56,000+-10% N . A . T . C . Approved Formula HP-178-1

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested Formulat ions

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 65-70.

Hair Care Products 199

Cream Curl Activator

Formula: Phase A : De ion ized Water Hydroxypropy l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e T r i e thano l ami ne Panthenol Hydro1 yzed S i 1 k P r o t e i n ( I keda) Quatern i urn-1 5

Phase 6: Macol CPS S o l u l a n 16 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i l Masi 1 656 F l u i d Masi 1 SF-V F l u i d M a s i l 280

Phase C : C i t r i c A c i d 50% Fragrance

%Wt.

80.43 0 .20 0.02 1 .oo 1 . o o 0 .30

6 .00 1 . o o 2 .00 3 .00 3.00 2.00

0 . 0 5 q . s .

Procedure: D ispe rse Hydroxypropy l M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e water ; add TEA

t o i n i t i a t e h y d r a t i o n . A f t e r 20 mins . add rema in ing A i n g r e d i - en ts , hea t t o 55C and s t i r . Separa te l y b l e n d 6 and hea t t o 55C. Add 6 t o A, m a i n t a i n a g i t a t i o n w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. A d j u s t pH and add f r a g r a n c e .

Hair Relaxer Emulsion

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l PEG-75 1 ano l i n Whi te P ro tope t Emu1 s i f y i ng wax

S Pet ro la tum

Propy lene g l yco Hydro lyzed animal p r o t e i n S t e a r i c a c i d Sodi um h y d r o x i de, 50% Fragrance Water

Percent 14.00

4.00 18.00 5 .50 5.00 5.00 1 .50 6.00 0 . 3 0

q.s.100.00

SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : Petroleum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

200

A .

B .

Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Hair Conditioner

01 e y l A lcoho l Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) Mackester SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) BHA Propy l Paraben

Weight ,% 10.0

2 . 5 3.0 0.1 0.1

Mackalene 31 6 (Stearami dopropy l Dimethy l ami ne L a c t a t e ) 2 5 . 0 Macksta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) q s Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Heat p a r t A t o 70 degrees C . 2 . Add Mackalene 316 t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C . 3 . Add A t o B and w i t h cont inuous b l e n d i n g c o o l t o 45 degrees C . 4 . Add remain ing components and c o o l .

Hair Conditioner

Wei q h t ,%

c o n s i s t e n c y ) 5 . 0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) q s Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 1 0 0 . 0

Procedure: 1 . Add Mackadet CBC t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C . 2 . With cont inuous m i x i n g c o o l t o 50 degrees C . 3. Add remain ing components and c o o l .

Mackadet CBC ( C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e f o r v i s c o u s cream

Pearl Conditioner

Wei g h t ,%

be c o l d b l ended) 1 0 . 0 Macadet LCB ( L i q u i d C o n d i t i o n e r Concent ra te t h a t can

T r i e thano l Ami ne Sodium C h l o r i d e Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Water, Dye, Fragrance q . s . t o

1 . o 0.5 q s

100.0

Procedure: 1 . Warm water t o 40 degrees C . 2 . Add sodium c h l o r i d e and TEA. 3. Add Mackadet LCB and b l e n d s l o w l y . 4 . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e . 5 . Cool and f i 11.

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group Ltd.: Personal Care Formulary

Hair Care Products 201

Cream Hair Rinse

I n q r e d i e n t s : C e t y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s F o r e s t a l 1 Water, d e i o n i z e d

o/,w/w 1 .50 1 . o o 1 . 4 0

96.10

Procedure:

s t i r r i n g and add makeup w a t e r . Formula PC-8214

Heat t o 70 deg. C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool w i t h

Hydrogen Peroxide Emulsion

I nq r ed i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721, Steareth-21 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .

w 6 . 0 0 5 .00 0 I 50

B Water, d e i o n i zed 66.30

C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n grade 22 * 20

Procedure:

moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) below 35C. Replace water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 .5 -4 .0 w i t h d i l u t e phosphor i c a c i d (10% C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e evo l u t i on o f oxygen. Formula HC-13

Heat (A) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 65C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Permanent Wave Lotion

I n a r e d i e n t s : A F o r e s t a l l

B r i j 35 SP Water, d e i o n i zed

%w/w 1 . 4 0 2 . 0 0

80.10

B Ethanol ami ne 9 .50

C T h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d 7 . 0 0

Procedure:

Add (C) . A d j u s t pH t o 9.0-9.5 w i t h a d d i t i o n a l e thanolamine o r t h i o g l y c o l i c a c i d . Formula HC-15

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

M i x (A) w i t h g e n t l e heat i f necessary u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add (B).

202 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Deep Conditioning Treatment

Deep c o n d i t i o n i n g f o r m u l a based on a c o n t r o l l e d d e p o s i t i o n o f C h o l e s t e r o l I

I n a r e d i e n t s 1. D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 . Propy lene G l y c o l 3 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 4 . Rita-STAC (Stear t r imon ium C h l o r i d e ) 5 . C h o l e s t e r o l NF 6 . Supersat AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated

L a n o l i n ) 7 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 8 . P e t r o l a t u m 9. Fragrance 10. Kathon CG

F u n c t i o n 75.17 ---------

3.00 M o i s t u r e 2.00 C o n t r o l 1 .50 Condi t i oner 1 .00 Repa i r

2 . 0 0 Repai r

5.00 Repai r 0 .30 Odor 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e

IO, 00 E m u l s i f i e r

Compounding Procedure:

combine i t e m s 3-8 and heat t o 70C. M i x and add t o water phase w i t h good m i x i n g . Cool t o 50C and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e .

Combine i tems 1 and 2 and heat t o 75-8OC. I n a separa te beaker

Ref . No. 118-116

Intensive Conditioner with Body

A d e t a n g l i n g c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h g r e a t wet /d ry combing. H a i r has i n c r e a s e d body/volume.

I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . Rita-BTAC (Behentr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 4.00 C o n d i t i o n e r , A n t i -

S t a t i c 2 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 3.00 Emulsi f i e r , Thickener 3 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 .OO E m u l s i f i e r , Th ickener

5 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e F l u i d 344 o r 345 5.00 L u b r i c a n t , E m o l l i e n t 6. S i l i c o n e F l u i d 200 (100 c S t ) 5.00 L u b r i c a n t , Emoll i e n t 7. Wheat Germ O i 1 1 .00 Nourishment 8 . G lydant 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure: Heat i t e m s 1-3 t o 70C. Heat water t o 80-85C. Add i t e m s 1-3

t o water and mix u n t i l i t reaches 50C. Then add i tems 5-7 and m i x . A t 45C add i t e m s 8. Mix u n t i l 35-4OC.

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested Formula t ions

4. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 80.80 ----.---------

Ref. No. 116-170

Hair Care Products 203

Ethnic Hair Care Clear Hair Rinse

I n a r e d i e n t s : Water Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e P r e s e r v a t i ve Propylene G1 y c o l G1 ycer i n Q u a t e r n i urn-80 (Abi 1 Quat 3272) Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L) Fragrance

e 91.30

1.20

3 .00 2 .oo 0 .50 1 .oo 1 .oo

Q . S .

Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e water and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Heat t o 50C. Mix . D isperse

2. Add t h e remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s . Cool t o 35C. 3 . Pre b l e n d t h e Tagat L and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o b a t c h . Mix u n t i l

t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r .

c l e a r u s i n g s low speed.

Ethnic Hair Care Hair Dressings

I n q r e d i e n t s : Water Hydroxypropyl Methy l c e l l u l ose P r e s e r v a t i v e P r o w l e n e G l y c o l G1 ycer i n Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Dimeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Laura te (Tagat L ) Fragrance

%w/w 91 .30

1.20

3 .00 2 .00 0 .50 1 .oo 1 . o o

Q.S.

Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e water and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Heat t o 50C. Mix . D isperse

2 . Add t h e remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s . Cool t o 35C. 3 . Pre b l e n d t h e Tagat L and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o b a t c h . M i x u n t i l

SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i ons

t h e HMC. M i x u n t i l c l e a r .

c l e a r u s i n g s low speed.

204 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gels

Hair Repair

I n g r e d i e n t s : 9bw/w T e t r a s o d i um EDTA 0 . 1 0 Water 75.80 G l y c e r i n 5 . 0 0 Propy lene G1 y c o l 15.00 Carbomer 940 0 .75 D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) 1 .oo D imeth icone P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) 0 .50 Dimethicone/Sodium PG Propy l D imeth icone T h i o s u l f a t e

Copolymer ( A b i l S 2 0 1 ) 1 . o o PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L) 0 .50 Fragrance Q . S . P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . T r i e thano lamine (99%) 0 .35 Procedure: 1 . M i x t h e w a t e r , G l y c e r i n , Propy lene G l y c o l , and Tet rasod ium

2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between

3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n or

EDTA t o g e t h e r . D i s p e r s e t h e Carbomer 940.

a d d i t i o n s . Note: Preb lend t h e Tagat L and f r a g r a n c e .

t h e T r ie thano lamine .

Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens

Conditioning Sheen

I n g r e d i e n t s : Water 72.00 Tet rasod ium EDTA 0 . 1 0 Propy lene G1 y c o l 1 0 . 0 0 G1 y c e r i n 15.00 Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) 0.40 D imeth icone P r o p y l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) 0 . 2 5 D imeth icone Copo lyo l (Abi 1 B 88183) 0 . 7 5 PEG-75 L a n o l i n 0 . 7 5 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L ) 0 .50 PEG-I8 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Oleate ( A n t i l 171) 0 .25 Fragrance Q . S . P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S .

Procedure: 1 . Heat water t o 50C. D i s s o l v e Tet rasod ium EDTA. 2 . Add t h e Tagat L, A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l

c l e a r . 3 . Add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i -

t i o n s . 4 . A d j u s t p H .

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n ) TO pH 5-6

Hair Care Products 205

Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel

For Shine

I n a r e d i e n t s : T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water G1 ycer i n Propylene G l y c o l Carbomer 940 Dimeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 8851) Dimeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L ) Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s Sodium Hydrox ide (25% S o l u t i o n )

m 0.10

76.65 15.00

5 . 0 0 0 . 7 5 1 .oo 1 . o o 0.50

Q . S . Q . S .

t o pH 6

Procedure: 1 . M ix t h e water , G l y c e r i n , Propy lene G l y c o l , and Tetrasodium

2 . Add t h e r e s t o f t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l between

3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n o r

EDTA t o g e t h e r . D isperse t h e Carbomer 940.

a d d i t i o n s . Note: Preblend t h e Tagat L and f r a g r a n c e .

t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e .

Ethnic Hair Care Curl Activation Gel

Moisturizing

I nared i e n t s : T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water G l y c e r i n Propylene G l y c o l Carbomer 940 Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l B 88183) Dimeth icone Propy l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L) Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%)

%w/w 0.10

76.30 10.00 10.00

0.75 1 .oo 1 . oo 0 .50

Q . S . Q . S .

0.35

Procedure: 1 . M ix t h e water , G l y c e r i n , Propy lene G l y c o l , and Tetrasodium

EDTA t o a e t h e r . DisDerse t h e Carbomer 940. 2 . Add t h e - r e s t of t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g we

a d d i t i o n s . Note: Preblend t h e Tagat L and f ragrance 3 . N e u t r a l i z e t h e Carbomer w i t h Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t

t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e .

SOURCE: Goldschmi dt Chemical Corp I : Suggested Formul a t

1 between

on o r

ons

206 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ethnic Hair Care Leave-In Moisturizing/Sheen

I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A: Te t rasod ium EDTA Water O le th -20 D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) G1 yce r i n

Phase B: PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Lau ra te (Tagat L) Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e wa te r , O le th -20 , h e a t t o 40C. Mix u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add t h e rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A m i x i n g each u n t i

3 . Add t h e f r a g r a n c e t o t h e Tagat L. M ix w e l l - add t o Phase 4 . Cool w i t h m i x i n g - add p r e s e r v a t i v e s .

c l e a r .

0 .1 77.9 2 .0 3 . 0 0 .5

1 5 . 0

1 . 5 Q . S . Q . S .

A .

Ethnic Hair Care Hair Cuticle Coat Conditioner

I n a r e d i e n t s : Cyclomethicone (and) D imeth icono l (and) Dimethicone

( A b i l OSW 12) Cyclomethicone Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l Oil I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegoso f t M) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV 20) Fragrance

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .

%w/w

5 5 . 0 25.0 10.0

3 . 0 2 .0 5 . 0 Q . S .

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Hair Care Products 207

Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens

Moisturizing Sheen

I n g r e d i e n t s : Water T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Propylene G1 y c o l G1 y c e r i n Dimeth icone Propy l PG B e t a i n e (AB11 B 9950) Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-75 Lanol i n PEG-30 G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e (Tagat L ) PEG-18 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Oleate ( A n t i l 171) Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n )

Procedure: 1 . Heat water t o 50C. D i s s o l v e Tetrasodium EDTA

%Z 72.40

0.10 10.00 15.00

0.50 0.50 0.75 0 .50 0.25 Q.S. Q.S.

TO pH 5-6

2. Add t h e Tagat L, A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M i x u n t i l c l e a r .

3 . Add t h e remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between a d d i t i o n s .

4 . A d j u s t pH.

Ethnic Hair Care Pump Spray-on Moisturizing/Oil-Sheens

Extra Sheen

I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Tet rasodium EDTA Propylene G l y c o l G1 y c e r i n Dimeth icone Propy l PG B e t a i n e ( A b i l B 9950) Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-75 Lanol i n PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Cocoate/Oleate ( A n t i l 171) Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s C i t r i c A c i d (25% s o l u t i o n )

Procedure: 1. Heat water t o 50C. D i s s o l v e Tetrasodium EDTA.

?ivtJy 66.15

0.10 10.00 20.00

0.75 1.50 0 . 7 5 0 .25 Q.S. Q.S.

TO pH 5-6

2 . Add t h e Tagat L, A n t i l 171, and PEG-75 L a n o l i n . M ix u n t i l c l e a r .

3 . Add t h e remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r , m i x i n g between addi t i ons .

4. A d j u s t pH.

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical C o r p . : Suggested Formula t ions

208 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ethnic Hair Glosser/Conditioner

T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l fo rmula based on a s i l i c o n e Do lvmer ic e m u l s i f i e r i s des igned f o r use g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y t r e a t e d .

I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A: O i l Phase: C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l (Ab P e t r o l a t u m M i n e r a l O i l

as a l e a v e on c o n d i t i o n e r t o f o r h a i r which has been c h e m i c a l l y

1 EM-90)

C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t OP) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t P) L a n o l i n O i l Phenyl T r i m e t h i c o n e ( A b i l AV 20)

Phase B: Fragrance

Phase C: Water Phase: Water Sodium C h l o r i d e G l y c e r i n P r e s e r v a t i v e s

2 . 0 6 . 0

10.0 2 .0 3 . 5 3 . 5 3 . 0 2 .0

Q . S .

64.3 0 . 7 3.0 Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . B lend t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r , h e a t i n g t o 5OC.

2. Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Add f r a g r a n c e . 3. I n a separa e v e s s e l , mix t h e components t o Phase C t o g e t h e r . 4 . Add Phase C t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h s low l i g h t n i n g mix.

5 . Homogeni ze.

Mix u n t i l f u l l y d i s p e r s e d .

M i x u n t i l a 1 water i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e o i l phase.

Ethnic Pump Spray Conditioner

I n a r e d i e n t s : Water Propy lene G l y c o l G l y c e r i n Dimeth icone Copolyo l ( A b i l B 88183) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Panthenol Tocopherol A c e t a t e ( V i t a m i n E) P r e s e r v a t i v e s

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .

&y.& 82 .2

7 . 5 7 .5 2 .0 0 .5 0 . 2 0 .1 Q . S .

SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i ons

Hair Care Products 209

Ethnic Hair Glosser/Extra Conditioning

T h i s w a t e r - i n - o i l f o rmu la based on a s i l i c o n e p o l y m e r i c e m u l s i f i e r i s designed f o r use as a l eave on c o n d i t i o n e r t o g i v e g l o s s and body e s p e c i a l l y f o r h a i r which has been chem- i c a l l y t r e a t e d . I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A : O i l Phase: C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol ( A b i l EM-90) Pe t ro la tum M i n e r a l O i l C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t P) L a n o l i n O i l Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV 20) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474)

Phase 8 : Fragrance

Phase C : Water Phase: Water Sodium C h l o r i d e G1 ycer i n P r e s e r v a t i v e s

%&y&

2 . 0 6 . 0

1 0 . 0 2.0 3.5 3 . 0 3 . 0 2 . 0 0.5

Q . S

64.3 0.7 3.0 Q . S

Procedure: 1 . Blend t h e components o f Phase A t o g e t h e r - h e a t i n g t o 50C.

2 . Cool t o 40-45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n - add f r a g r a n c e . 3. I n a separa te vesse l , m ix t h e components t o Phase C t o g e t h e r . 4. Add Phase C t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h s low l i g h t n i n g m ix .

5 . Homogeni ze .

Mix u n t i l f u l l y d i spe rsed .

Mix u n t i l a l l water i s i n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h e o i l phase.

Ethnic Hair Care Extra Conditioning Coat Conditioner

I n a r e d i e n t s : Cyclomethicone (and) D imeth icono l (and)

( A b i l OSW 12) Cycl omethi cone Isohexadecane o r M i n e r a l O i l O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV 20) Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474)

D i methi cone 50.0 30.5 8.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 0.5

Procedure:

SOURCE: Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp, : Suggested Formul a t i ons

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .

210 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse

I. Water Amp h ome r Ami nomethyl Propanol Dow Corn ing 929 Emulsion Phosphol i p i d EFA SD3A A l c o h o l

11. Hydroxyethy l C e l l u l o s e Water

I 11. Propel 1 a n t

% by Wei Pht 37.35

3.75 0.60 0 .40 0 .60

10.00

0.30 37.00

10.00

Procedure:

c a r e f u l l y s p r i n k l e h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o water w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . B lend P a r t I1 t o I and t h e n a e r o s o l i z e .

Prepare P a r t I and I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p repare P a r t 11,

Formula F-554

Leave-On Hair Conditioner

I n q r e d i e n t s : Water Hydroxyethy l C e l l u l o s e G l y c o l Di s t e a r a t e C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l Monaquat TG Phosphol i p i d EFA Methy l Paraben Propy l Paraben

% bv Weiqht 90 I 2

0 .5 1 .5 1 . 8 5 . 5 0 .3 0 . 1 0 . 1

Procedure Charge

a g i t a t i o n S t i r c o o l

water , s l o w l y add h y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good

t o b l e n d 40C and add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , e t c . Package. . Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and heat t o 65-7OC.

Whi te P e a r l e d L o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 2500 cp pH: 5 . 6

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

Hair Care Products 211

Firm Hold Hairspray

I n n r e d i e n t s : Resyn 28-291 3 AMP C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous DC- 190 Armeed DM18D Fragrance Anhydrous Ethano l , SDA-40 Propel 1 a n t A-46

P a r t s by Weight 2.50 0.24 0.20 0.20 0.15

71 - 7 1 25.00

Q.S.

Valve: Seaqu is t NS-41 Stem: 2 x 0.020" ( A c e t a l ) Stem Gasket: Buna N 0.042'' S p r i n g : 0.023" 302 SS Body: 0.062" (Nylon) 0.020'' VT Mount ing Cup: Regular , Epoxy Top/Bottom, Dimpled A c t u a t o r : 0.020" M i s t y , A c e t a l ( b l a c k )

D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous e t h a n o l , SDA-40. S l o w l y add Prepara t i on :

Resyn 28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i 11 c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge p r o p e l 1 a n t .

Formul a 6472 : 94

High Performance Styling Spray

I n a r e d i e n t s : Resyn 28-2930 AMP Dow Corn ing 556 f l u i d C r o t e i n AD Anh. C i t r o f l e x 2 Fragrance 190 P r o o f E t h a n o l , SDA-40

P a r t s by Wei a h t 6 .75 0.83 0.15 0.20 0.15 0.10

92.02

P r e p a r a t i on :

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add Resyn 28-2930 t o t h e v o r t e x . Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s complete. Add ba lance o f i n g r e d i e n t s . When homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l .

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Corp . : Suggested Formulas

D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e 190 p r o o f SDA-40. W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good

Formula 6472:95

212 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Gel Curl Activator

Water Acrylate/Steareth-20/Methacrylate

Hys ta r CG G1 y c e r i ne 99% Propy lene G l y c o l D imeth icone Copo lyo l 193 Germaben I 1 T r i e thano l ami ne Fragrance Jo joba O i l

(Ac ryso l ICs-1) Copolymer

% 5 7 . 7

2.0 10 .3 23.9 2.0 2.3 1 . o 0.7 q . s . 0 . 1

Procedure: Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n descending o r d e r i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l

t ank , w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n and mix t i l c l e a r . Pack i n a p l a s t i c t u b e o r a p l a s t i c b o t t l e .

Alcohol Free Styling GelpH: 7.2

Water Propy lene G l y c o l A c r y l a t e / S t e a r e t h - 2 0 / M e t h a c r y l a t e Copolymer

Germaben I 1 D imeth icone Copo lyo l 193 Fragrance T r ie thano lamine Jo joba O i l

( A c r y s o l ICs-1)

%

12.0

2.0 1 . o 0 . 5 0 .5 0.7 0 .1

83.2

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Next add i t e m 6 , a g i t a t e t i l c l e a r and package.

SOURCE: Frank B . Ross Co. , I nc . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

To t h e water add i n g r e d i e n t s 2 t h r u 5 p l u s 7 w i t h va ry s low

Hair Care Products 213

Guanidine No Base Relaxer A c r e a m / a c t i v a t o r system f o r a no base r e l a x e r .

I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w F u n c t i o n I. A c t i v a t o r S o l u t i o n : 1 . R . I . T . A . GC (Guan id ine Carbonate) 3 0 . 0 0 A c t i v a t o r 2 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 70 00 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 3 . C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e q I s . P r e s e r v a t i v e Compounding Procedure:

11. No Base Cream: 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 1 2 . 0 0 Emu1 s i f i e r 2 . R i taderm ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 4 . 0 0 E m o l l i e n t 3 . Pe t ro la tum 1 0 . 0 0 Tex tu re 4 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 16.00 Spread 5 . Supersat AWS 4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated L a n o l i n ) 2 .00 M o i s t u r e 6 . Ca lc ium Hydrox ide , Dry 7 . 0 0 Re laxer 7 . Propy lene G l y c o l 5 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 4 4 . 0 0 -------- Compounding Procedure:

6-8 and heat t o 70C. Combine b o t h phases, m i x w e l l and c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o 45C. Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and c o o l w i t h m i x i n g t o 40C. Package I a t 1 . 7 5 f 1 . o ~ . Package I 1 a t 7 . 5 0 f l . 0 2 . D i r e c t i o n s :

Mix I i n 11, s t i r w e l l w i t h wooden s t i c k u n t i l c o l o r i s comp le te l y d i s p e r s e d . Use as p e r normal r e l a x e r i n s t r u c t i o n s .

Ref . No. 117-82

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s a t 2OC w i t h adequate m i x i ng.

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s 1-5 and heat t o 70C. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s

Potassium RelaxerP o t a s s i um Hydrox i de re1 axer based on t h e emuls i f i c a t i on power

o f R i t a c h o l 5000. I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 1 5 . 0 0 Emu 1 s i f i e r 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 1 7 . 0 0 E m o l l i e n t 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 Spread 4. Pe t ro la tum 17.50 Spread 5 . R i tahyd rox ( H y d r o x y l a t e d L a n o l i n ) 0 . 5 0 S t a b i 1 i t y 6 . Propylparaben 0 . 1 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 E m u l s i f i e r 8 . G l y c e r i n e @ 99% 6 .00 Humectant

IO. Methy l paraben 0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e 11.Potassium Hydrox ide 13 25% 10.00 Re laxer Compoundi ng Procedure:

Combine i t e m s 1-7 i n separa te c o n t a i n e r and h e a t t o 80C. Combine i t e m s 8-10 and h e a t t o 80C and add t o i t e m s 1-7. M i x i n v a r i a b l e speed m i x e r f o r 1 m i n u t e . Add water t o c o o l i n g pan and mix u n t i l 65C. S l o w l y add KOH. Add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 25C.

9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 29.67 -____- -__

R e f . No. 118-176

SOURCE: R.I.T.A. C o r p . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

214 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Brushing Lotion

A . Amihope LL TL-10 (PEG-20 S o r b i t a n Mono laura te) 1 ,3 -Butaned io l (Bu ty lene G l y c o l ) S t e a r y l A l coho l Carbopol 941 (Carbomer 941)*

u 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 3

10 .0

B . Water 68 .2

C . E thano l 20.0

* 0 . 5 % w t Carbomer 941 aqueous s o l u t i o n ( n e u t r a l i z e d by NaOH)

Procedure: 1 . Each chemical c i t e d i n ( A ) i s weighed i n a g l a s s v e s s e l .

Heat i t t o 60-70C and s t i r u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s homogeneous. 2 . Add a p r e v i o u s l y warmed water (9) [60-70C] t o t h e former

p repared s o l u t i o n and coo l i t t o room tempera ture w i t h s t i r r i n g .

3 . Add a 20.09 e thano l (C) t o t h e coo led s o l u t i o n w i t h s t i r r i n g .

Note: T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n has a good a n t i s t a t i c e f f e c t and

g i v e s good c o m b a b i l i t y . Amihope LL decreased t h e f r i c t i o n between h a i r and comb o r b rush remarkab ly .

Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .

Hair Brushing Lotion

Amihope LL POE (20 ) S o r b i t a n Mono laura te (Po lyso rba te 20) E thano l

Procedure: Mix a l l components a t room tempera tu re .

Wt% 0 . 5 0 . 5

99 .0

Note :

e f f e c t and smoothness f o r t h e h a i r .

c a t i o n i c s u r f a c t a n t .

Usage: Spray t h e h a i r b e f o r e b r u s h i n g .

SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

T h i s h a i r b r u s h i n g l o t i o n a l c o h o l i c t y p e has good a n t i s t a t i c

Amihope LL a c t s as h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g agent i n s t e a d o f t h e

Hair Care Products 215

Hair Conditioner

T h i s f o r m u l a i n c o r p o r a t e s a m i x t u r e of p r o t e i n and e x t r a c t s t h e have a good a f f i n i t y f o r h a i r , e s p e c i a l l y when b leached and damaged, l e a v i n g your h a i r smooth, s i l k y and more manageable.

Water Phase I: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) Buty lene G l y c o l (Hoechst) G1 y c e r i ne (Uni chema) C e l l o s i z e (Hercu les) Methy lparaben ( S u t t o n ) S o r b i t o l 70% Carbopol 940 2% Tris(hydroxymethy1)aminomethane

O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) L iquapar ( S u t t o n ) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) Deo. Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) V i t a m i n E (BASF) V i t a m i n A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) Propylparaben ( S u t t o n ) S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichem) Wheat Germ O i 1 ( L i p o ) Sweet Almond O i l ( L i p o ) Propy lene G l y c o l D i o c t a n a t e ( I n o l e x )

Water Phase 11: Water ( D i s t i 1 l e d ) T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (Dow)

Ac t i ve Phase : Ginseng E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e Organ ics) A r n i c a E x t r a c t ( A c t i v e Organ ics) Wheat P r o t e i n (Vege-Tech) Fragrance

61.20% 3.00% 2 .00% 0.30% 0.30% 2.00% 6.00% 0.60%

5.00% 0.40% 2.00% 1 .OO% 0.10% 0.10% 0.20% 2.00% 1.20% 1.20% 2.50%

5,00% 1 .OO%

1 ,OO% 1.00% 0 I 70% 0.20%

Procedure: D isperse t h e c e l l o s i z e i n t h e water and when d i s p e r s e d and

added t h e r e s t o f phase. Heat t h e water phase I t o 8OC and t h e o i l phase t o 82C. S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o water phase I under moderate a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 70C and add water phase 11. Cont inue m i x i n g and added t h e a c t i v e phase a t 35C. Cool t o room tempera ture .

A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

i n t r o d u c e d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f fo rmula .

SOURCE: Koster Keunen I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Other a c t i v e compounds and c o n d i t i o n i n g agents a r e e a s i l y

216 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Conditioner with Moisturizers & Quaternium-79 HydrolyzedAnimal Protein

Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) Mackerni um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l koni urn C h l o r i d e )

Wei Qht ,% 3 . 0 3 . 0

Propy l ene G1 y c o l 1 . o G l y c e r i n 1 . o Mackamide AME-100 (Acetamide MEA) 1 . o M i n e r a l O i l 1 . o Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 .0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Deion ized Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 100.0

pH: 3 . 5 - 4 . 5 V i s c o s i t y (cps 25 degrees C ) : 1500-3000

Procedure: 1 . M e l t waxes and o i l s t o 70 degrees C . 2 . S e p a r a t e l y heat water p l u s Mackpro NLP t o 70 degrees C. and

add h o t water s o l u t i o n t o h o t o i l s and waxes. 3 . S t a r t s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y f o r 10 minu tes and t h e n s t a r t s low

c o o l i n g w h i l e m i x i n g and a t 40 degrees C . add Mackstat DM t h e n f r a g r a n c e and dye and s low m i x i n g down c l o s e t o room tempera ture .

4 . Stop m i x i n g a t 30 degrees C, 5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

High Quality Conditioner

Mackernium SDC-25 (S teara lkon ium C h l o r i d e ) Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) B r i j 72 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o

Procedure: 1. Add components t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C. 2 . Wi th m i l d a g i t a t i o n b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50 degrees C . and add dye and f ragrance. 4 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

Wei q h t ,% 1 0 . 0

2.0 2.0

qs 100.0

Hair Care Products 21 7

Hair Conditioning Gel

I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: P a r t A : De ion ized Water H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropy l t r imon ium C h l o r i d e C i t r i c A c i d Methy lparaben

% by Weipht

89.94 0.80

0 .40 0 . 0 6 0.02

P a r t 8 : Panthenol 0 .30 Sodi um P C A / A j i dew N-50 3 . 0 0 P a r t i a l l y Deacety la ted C h i t i n (1% So lu t ion) /Mar ine-Dew 3 .00

D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea 0 . 3 0

Procedure: Add p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . Heat t o 75 degrees Cent-

i g r a d e . Mix u n t i l c l e a r and u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50 degrees Cent- i g r a d e . Add p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e g i v e n o r d e r , m i x i n g w e l l a f t e r each a d d i t i o n . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35 degrees C e n t i g r a d e .

Polyquatern ium-11 2 . 0 0

Appearance: C l e a r g e l

V i s c o s i t y : 7,000-10,000 (RVT #5 I3 lOrpm I3 25 degrees C) pH: 4.5-5.5

Hair Conditioner with CAE

I n q r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Cetanol Ami te r LGS-2 N i kkol MYS-55

Phase B : CAE A-SM Prodew 100 G l y c e r i n Methy lparaben Water

Wt%

3 . 0 2 .0 1 . o

1 . o 3 . 0 2 . 0

1 0 . 0 0 . 2

77.8

S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : pH: 5 . 0 V i s : 2500 cps Procedure:

Mix i n g r e d i e n t s Phase A and heat t o 75-80 degrees C. M ix i n g r e d i e n t s Phase B and heat t o 75-80 degrees C . Add Phase A t o Phase 8 and mix w i t h homomixer (1500 t o 2500 RPM) . Cool t o 35 degrees C .

T h i s h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r has good a n t i s t a t i c and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s .

Formula No. 1 CR-56-11 SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

218 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Conditioning Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A B r i j 721s

C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r y l a1 coho1 S t e a r a l konium

o/ow/w 1 . 3 0 0 .90 0 .60 0 .50

B Water, d e i o n i z e d 96.70

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 60C and ( B ) t o 62C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h moderate

a g i t a t i o n . Cool w h i l e a g i t a t i n g t o 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r loss due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Clear Hair Conditioner Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A Hydroxyethy l c e l l u l o s e , Na t roso l 250HR

B F o r e s t a l l Water, d e i o n i z e d

o w 40.00

1 .40 58.60

Procedure:

water t o y i e l d a 3% s o l u t i o n . Prepare s o l u t i o n ( B ) . Add (B) t o (A) w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l homogeneous.

Mix (A) i n advance by d i s p e r s i n g hyd roxye thy l c e l l u l o s e i n

Hair Conditioning Gel

I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

A r 1 aso l ve 200 B r i j 93

B Water, d e i o n i zed Propy lene g l y c o l Sorbo F o r e s t a l 1

11 . o o 20.00

6 .00

49.60 5 .00 7 . 0 0 1 .40

Procedure:

Cool t o 60C and add make-up wa te r . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m and pour w h i l e s t i l l f l u i d .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formulations

Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 9OC. Add (B) t o ( A ) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .

Hair Care Products 219

Hair Cream

(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Squal ane N i k k o l WCB Po lyoxye thy lene (6300) Monostearate G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S e l f E m u l s i f y i n g Type) Po lyoxye thy lene (20) C e t y l E t h e r

(W) A j i dew N-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1 . Heat ( 0 ) and (W) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . F i n i s h s t i r r i n g a t 40C.

pH: 7 . 3 V i s c o s i t y : 900 cps

Hair Tonic

( 0 ) P y r o t e r GPI-25 P y r o t e r CPI-40 E t h y l A l coho l (95%) L-Menthol Camphor Methy lparaben Perfume

(W) A j i dew T-50 Water

Wt% 38 .0

3 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 1 4 . 1 2 . 9

3 . 0 47 .9

q . s .

- W t % 2.7 0.3

5 0 . 0 0.4 0 . 0 5 0 . 0 5 q . s .

4 . 0 42 .5

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e (0) and (W) s e p a r a t e l y a t room tempera tu re t o be

2 . Add (W) t o (0) w i t h s t i r r i n g . c l e a r s o l u t i ons.

pH: 7 .5 V i s c o s i t y : 5 cps

SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

220 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair DressingW/O Cold Process

I n q r e d i en t s : Phase A : C e t y l D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90) M i n e r a l O i l C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegosof t CT) C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) Cyclomethicone ( A b i l 0 8839) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l an G I 34) C e t e a r y l Isononoanoate (Tegoso f t C I ) C e t y l Octanoate (Tegoso f t CO) Fragrance Phase B: Water Propy lene G1 yco l Quaternium-80 (Ab i 1 Quat 3270) G1 y c e r i n Sodium C h l o r i d e P r e s e r v a t i v e s

2 . 0 7 . 3 3 . 0 1 . o 5 . 0 1 . o 1 . 5 0 . 8 Q.S.

72.9 3 . 0 0 . 5 1 . 2 0 . 8 Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . M ix t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o g e t h e r . 2 . D i s s o l v e t h e Sodium C h l o r i d e i n t o t h e wa te r . Add t h e G l y c e r i n

and Propy lene G l y c o l . Mix u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . Add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s and Quaternium-80 t o t h e water phase.

Mix u n t i l f u l l y d i spe rsed . 4 . Add Phase B t o Phase A s l o w l y w i t h s o f t p r o p e l l e r m i x i n g .

M a i n t a i n , a t a l l t imes , a creamy appearance. 5. Homogenize.

Hair Styling Gel

I n q r e d i e n t s : ?&&

(Ab i 1 OSW-12) 22.20 Cycl omethicone (and D i methi cono l (and) D i methi cone

Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV-20) 3.00 Cycl omethi cone (Ab i B 8839) 3.00 Propy lene G1 yco l 42.00 Hexyl ene G1 y c o l 4.55 Water 22 .oo G1 y c e r i n 1 . o o P rese rva t i ves Q . S . Po lyac ry lam ide (and) C13-14 I s o p a r a f f i n (and)

Lau r e t h-7 2.25

Procedure:

When a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e combined, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i nc reases . F i n a l p roduc t i s a t r a n s l u c e n t , c o l o r l e s s g e l .

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formulat ions

Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n o rde r , m i x i n g w e l l between a d d i t i o n s .

Formula BAM-5-43

Hair Care Products 221

Hair Gloss to Control Gel Concentrate

Inqredi ents: Methacryloyl Ethyl Eetaine/Methacrylates Copolymer Water Dimethicone (Abi 1 350) Phenyl Trimethicone (Abil AV-20) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethiconol (and) Dimethicone (Abi 1 OSW-12)

Propylene G1 ycol* Hexylene Glycol Preservatives Fragrance Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoperaffin (and) Laureth-7

%w/w 1.50 20.00 4.00 4.00

25.00 35.00

7 . 5 0 Q . S . Q . S . 3.00

Procedure:

When all ingredients are combined, continue mixing until clear. Vi scosi ty wi 1 1 develop after mi xi ng.

*Ethanol can be substituted for part of the propylene glycol if a lighter product is needed.

Blend the ingredients together in the order given with mixing.

Iridescent Hair Gel Concentrate

Innredients: Cyclomethicone (and) (Abi 1 OSW-12)

Phenyl Trimethicone Propylene Glycol Hexyl ene G1 ycol Water Preservatives Polyacrylamide (and)

Procedure:

Di methi conol (and) Dime

Abil AV-20)

C13-14 Isoparaffin (and

hi cone 27.27 4.55 40.93 4.55 20.45

Laureth-7 2.25 Q . S .

Add the i ngredi ents i n order, mi xi ng we1 1 between additions. When all ingredients are combined, continue mixing until clear and iridescent. Formul at i on EAM-3-5

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp . : Suggested Formulations

222 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Pomade

High l u s t e r h a i r pomade based on n a t u r a l S imchin and Shebu. P a t i o n i c SSL and R i tapan DL p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f o r h e a l t h y 1 o o k i ng h a i r . I n g r e d i e n t s : w 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 - 90 w t . 5.00 2 . S imchin R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) 2.00 3. P e t r o l a t u m 85.70 4. Shebu (Shea B u t t e r ) 2 .00 5. L a n o l i n USP ( L a n o l i n ) 2 .00 6. Ri tapan DL (Panthenol DL) 0.50 7. P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 2.40 8 . Fragrance 0.20 9 . G lydant 0 .20

F u n c t i o n L u s t e r Emol 1 i e n t Ho ld L u s t e r Ho ld H e a l t h M o i s t u r e Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure: B lend i t e m s 1-7 a t 70C. S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C and

add remai n i ng i terns. F i 11 i n t o c o n t a i n e r s . Ref . N o . 118-173

Hair Pomade

Q u a l i t y h a i r pomade f o r m u l a t e d w i t h Simchin and Shebu f o r l u s t e r . P a t i o n i c ISL p r o v i d e s m o i s t u r i z a t i o n .

I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . Ritawax ( L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 3. Simchin Ref ined ( J o j o b a O i l ) 4 . Shebu (Shea B u t t e r ) 5 . P e t r o l atum 6. R i t a l a n ( L a n o l i n O i l ) 7. P a t i o n i c ISL (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l 8 . G lydant 9 . Fragrance - Jergens Type R-30318

1.50 5.00 2.00 1 . o o

84.60 3.00

L a c t y l a t e ) 2 .50 0.20 0.20

Funct i on Fee 1 Spread L u s t e r L u s t e r Spread L u s t e r M o i s t u r e P r e s e r v a t i v e Odor

Compounding Procedure: B lend i t e m s 1-7 and heat u n t i l c l e a r . Cool w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l

50C. Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . F i l l h o t w h i l e m i x i n g . Ref . N o . 118-178

SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products 223

Hair Relaxer - Glycerine

G l y c e r i n e based h a i r r e l a x e r which m o i s t u r i z e s h a i r . Emuls ion s t a b i l i t y based on R i t a c h o l 2000.

I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t . 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 4 . P e t r o l a t u m 5 . R i t a h y d r o x (Hydroxy la ted L a n o l i n ) 6 . Propy lparaben 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 8 . G l v c e r i n e 9 , D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 10.Methy lparaben 11.Sodium Hydrox ide (25% S o l u t i o n )

%w/w 5 . 0 0 7.00 2 .00 7.50 0 . 5 0 0 .13 2.00 6 .00

29.67 0 . 2 0

1 0 . 0 0

Funct i on Emul s i f i e r Spread Feel V i s c o s i t y S t a b i 1 i t y P r e s e r v a t i v e Emul s i f i e r M o i s t u r e

P r e s e r v a t i v e Re1 a x i ng

------- -

Compounding Procedure:

I n separa te beaker hea t i t ems 8-10 t o 85C. Add t h i s water m i x t u r e t o o i l m i x t u r e and mix a t low speed f o r 1 m inu te . Add c o l d water t o c o o l i n g pan and coo l t o 65C. Add Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n and m i x . Then add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 25C. Note: I n v e r s i o n w i l l occur d u r i n g m i x i n g .

Combine i t e m s 1-7 i n K i t c h e n A i d m ixe r bowl and hea t t o 80C.

Re f . No. 118-168

Hair Relaxer - Glycol

I nqred i e n t s : 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l NF 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 4 . P e t r o l a t u m 5 . R i t a h y d r o x (Hydroxy la ted L a n o l i n ) 6 . Propy lparaben 7 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 8 . Propy lene G l y c o l 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 10.Methy lparaben 1 l .Sod ium Hydrox ide (25% S o l u t i o n )

%w/w 15.00 17.00

2.00 17.50

0 . 5 0 0.13 2.00 6.00

29 .67 0 . 2 0

10.00

F u n c t i o n E m u l s i f i e r Emol l i e n t Spread Spread S t a b i 1 i t y P r e s e r v a t i v e Emul s i f i e r Humectant

P r e s e r v a t i ve Ac t i ve

--------

Compounding Procedure: Weigh and m e l t i t ems 1-7 a t 80C i n K i t c h e n A i d m ixe r bow l .

I n separa te beaker hea t i t ems 8-10 t o 85C. Add water phase t o o i l phase and mix f o r one m inu te . Add c o o l i n g water t o m ixe r c o o l i n g pan and c o o l t o 65C. Add Sodium Hydrox ide, t h e n add i c e t o c o o l i n g pan, and t h e n c o o l t o 25C w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Note i n v e r s i o n d u r i n g c o o l i n g p rocess .

Re f . No. 118-169

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

224 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Sculpting Cream

T h i s cream g i v e s s h i n e t o t h e h a i r w i t h o u t b e i n g greasy and makes h a i r easy t o s t y l e and manage. The Geahlene g i v e s v i s c o s i t y t o t h e cream and h e l p s h o l d h a i r i n p l a c e . I n c l u s i o n o f wheat p r o t e i n adds body and c o n d i t i o n i n g e f f e c t s . I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Weiqht% A De ion ized Water 62.86

Sol u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n / T r i t i s o l 1 . o o Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.80 Panthenol /DL-Panthenol 0 .10 D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal l I 1 0 .30 PVP/PVP K-30 1 . o o

B Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 0.70 Methy lparaben 0.20 Propy l ene G1 y c o l 5 . 0 0

C P o l y g l y c e r o l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e / A b i l WE-09 5 . 0 0

M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/ S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Styrene Copolymer//Geahlene 750 20.00

Phenyl T r i meth i cone/Dow Corn i ng 556 3 . 0 0 Fragrance 0.04

Mix p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat p a r t B t o 60C w i t h Procedure:

g e n t l e s t i r r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , premix p a r t C . S l o w l y add p a r t s A and B t o p a r t C i n smal l inc rements w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Hair Conditioner

P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water 90.60 Busan 1504 0 .10 Panthenol 0 . 2 5 A loe Vera 200X 0 .05 D i sod i urn EDTA 0 .05 C e t e a r y l A lcoho l & Cetearath-20 1 - 1 0 S t e a r y l A lcoho l & Cetr imonium Bromide 5 .00 Jo joba O i l 0.30 P a r t B: Acetamide MEA & Lactamide MEA 1 .oo Hydro1 yzed Wheat P r o t e i n & Wheat 01 i gosacchar i des 1 .25 Sodium PCA 0 .30 Procedure:

and mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . M a i n t a i n tempera ture a t 7 % and add remain ing P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown, e n s u r i n g t h a t each i s c o m p l e t e l y b lended i n t o b a t c h b e f o r e t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e n e x t i n g r e d i e n t . M ix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C. Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown and m i x u n t i l each i s d i s s o l v e d . Cool w h i l e m i x i n g t o 35C. SOURCE: Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Heat D I water t o 75C. Add Busan 1504 p r e s e r v a t i v e t o water

Hair Care Products 225

Hair Straightener

Formula: Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water Propy l ene G1 y c o l

Phase B : Pol awax Pe t ro la tum ( P r o t o p e t 1s) Hydrogenated Po ly i sobu tene

Phase C : Sodium Hydrox ide (25% S o l )

Phase D : Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and)

Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben

56.00 2 . 0 0

15.00 8 . 0 0

10.00

8 . 0 0

1 . o o

Procedure: Combine and heat water phase A and o i l phase B s e p a r a t e l y

t o 75C. Add t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase w i t h r a p i d m i x i n g . Cool t o 40C b e f o r e add ing C and D . Cool t o room temp. and package.

Conditioning Styling Gel

P a r t A : Water, D . I . Merquat 100

P a r t B: 61 andol B r i j A r l a t o n e G Propy lene g l y c o l G l y c e r i n e

P a r t C: Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e and c o l o r

Procedure: M ix P a r t A

Then, add Par m i x t u r e i s un P a r t C a t 53C

SOURCE: Wi t co Formu

Percent

q . s . t o 100 2.00

10.00 21 . o o 10 .00

8.00 7 .00

9 . s . q . s .

and B i n separa te vesse ls , h e a t i n g each t o 9OC. B t o P a r t A w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . When t h e

fo rm beg in t o c o o l , c o n t i n u i n g a g i t a t i o n . Add and c o n t i n u e c o o l i n g . Pour a t 50C.

Corp . : Pe t ro la tum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested a t i ons

226 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

High Petrolatum MousseAerosol

O i l Phase: P ro tope t 1s Pe t ro la tum Crodamol PMP Volpo 3 Water Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 941 10% Sodium Hydrox ide S o l u t i o n Water Phase 8: G1 y c e r i ne Volpo s-10 Germaben I 1

w 15.00

5 .00 1.20

69.30 0.13 0 .52

5 .00 2.85 1 .00

Procedure: Water Phase A :

Charge a vesse l w i t h water and d u s t i n t h e carbomer. S t a r t h e a t i n g - t o 80C. When comp le te l y d i spe rsed , add t h e sodium hyd rox ide s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Water Phase 0 :

When u n i f o r m add t o Water Phase A . O i l Phase:

Combine a l l components o f t h e o i l phase, mix and heat t o When u n i f o r m add t h e combined water phases s l o w l y w h i l e mix Cont inue m i x i n g t o room tempera tu re . F i l l R a t i o :

Combine components i n a separa te vesse l and mix, heat t o

Concent ra te 4.0%, P r o p e l l a n t A-46 96%.

Hot Oil Hair Treatment Mousse

80C.

80C. ng.

Percent Water 57.80 D i sod i um EDTA 0 . 2 0 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 10.00 Avocado O i l 5 .00 D imeth icone 2 .00 C e t e a r y l A l coho l (and) Ceteare th-20 (Promulgen D) 5.00 Jo joba O i l 1 . o o Mink O i l 1 .00 Castor O i l 5 .00 Oc ty ldodecy l S t e a r o y l S t e a r a t e (Ceraphy l 847) 10.00 Quaternium 26 (Ceraphy l 65) 2 .00 Germaben I 1 1 .oo Procedure:

80C. Cool t o 50C and add t h e Germaben 1 1 . Cool t o room temp- e r a t u r e and f i l l . 95% concent ra te /5% P r o p e l l a n t A-46. Appl i c a t i on:

f o r 15-20 m inu tes . R inse w e l l .

SOURCE: Wi t co Corp.: Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested

Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s except t h e Germaben I1 and heat t o

Apply smal l amount t o wet h a i r . Cover h a i r w i t h h o t t owe l

Fo rmu la t i ons

Hair Care Products 227

Hot Oil Conditioner

I n a r e d i e n t s : Cyclomethi cone (and) D imeth i cono l (and) D i methicone

( A b i l OSW 12) 25 .0 Dimethicone (100 c s t ) Cyc l omethi cone Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV 2 0 ) Fragrance

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .

50.0 22 .0

3 . 0 Q . S .

Hot Oil Super Conditioner

I n g r e d i e n t s : Cyclomethicone (and) D imeth icono l (and) Dimethicone

( A b i l OSW 12) 2 5 . 0 Dimethicone (100 c s t ) 42.0 Cyclomethicone 30 .0 Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV 20) 2 .5 Quaternium-80 ( A b i l Quat 3474) 0 .5 Fragrance Q.S.

Procedure: Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g .

Soft Glossing Spritz

I na r ed i e n t s : Phenyl T r ime th i cone ( A b i l AV-20) Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) Dimethicone ( A b i l 1000) Dimethicone ( A b i l 100 ) Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone

( A b i 1 OSW-12) Benzophenone-3 Fragrance

Procedure: Combine

Caut i on

SOURCE: Go

w 10.0 22.7

2 .5 14 .5

50 .0 0 .3 Q . S .

a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r - m i x i n g w e l l

Traces o f water w i l l cause t u r b i d i t y .

dschmi d t Chemical Corp I : Suggested Formul a t i ons

228 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Intensive Conditioning Pomade

High o i l , m o i s t u r i z i n g pomade f o r c o n t r o l o f d r y , overworked ha i r .

I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . P a r a f f i n (59-6OC) 2 . Pe t ro la tum

F u n c t i o n 10.70 Con t ro l 48.97 Moi s t u r e

3 . M i n e r a l O i l 30.00 Moi s t u r e 4 . F o r l a n L ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 5 . 0 0 Shine 5 . R i t a c h o l ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 3.00 Shine 6. P a t l a c I L ( I s o s t e a r y l L a c t a t e ) 2 . 0 0 Repa i r 7 . F ragrance #163-478 0 .30 Odor 8 . P r e s e r v a t i v e 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure: Mix a l l i t ems except perfume a t 65C. Cool t o 40C and add

perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Le t s e t up i n p roper c o n t a i n e r . Re f . No. 118-122

Light Oil Free Conditioner

Bas ic c o n d i t i o n e r t o p r o v i d e good combing and c o n d i t i o n i n g t o a l l h a i r t y p e s .

I n g r e d i e n t s : Func t i on 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 2 . Rita-STAC (S tea r t r imon ium C h l o r i d e ) 1 .50 C o n d i t i o n e r 3 . R i t a p r o 165 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2 . 0 0 S t a b i l i t y 4. R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 R e - f a t t i ng 5 . Ri tawax ALA ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 0 . 5 0 Sh ine 6 . Fragrance - Salon #169-122 0 .30 Odor 7 . Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure:

165F. Add t o water and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e .

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

93.67 __---------

Heat water t o 180F. I n separa te beaker heat i t ems 2-5 t o

Re f . No. 118-115

Hair Care Products 229

Intensive Hair Conditioner

An i n t e n s i v e c o n d i t i o n e r w i t h n o u r i s h i n g o i l t o make h a i r more h e a l t h y .

I n a r e d i e n t s : f u n c t i o n

2. Po lyquta 3000 (Polyquatern ium-10) 0.50 A n t i - S t a t i c , T h i c k e n e r 3 . Methy lparaben 0.15 P r e s e r v a t i v e 4 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 1.50 A n t i - S t a t i c ,

5. Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 2 .00 A n t i - S t a t i c ,

6. R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 8 .00 E m u l s i f i e r 7 . Wheat Germ O i l 1 . O O Nour i s h i ng O i 1 - H e a l t h 8 . Tocopherol 0.20 -------- 9. Propylparaben 0 . 1 0 P r e s e r v a t i ve 10.Kathon CG 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 11. D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 .00 ______-_ 12.Fragrance q . s .Odor

Compounding Procedure:

paraben. Heat t o 60C. Add i tems 4 and 5 and heat t o 70C. Heat i tems 6-9 t o 70-75C and add w i t h m i x i n g . Whi le m i x i n g , c o o l t o 45C and add i t e m s 10-12.

1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 84.52 ----------

C o n d i t i o n e r

Condi t i oner

D isperse Po lyquta 3000 i n w a t e r . When d ispersed, add M e t h y l -

Ref . No. 116-168

Salon Strength Hair Conditioner

Balanced c o n d i t i o n i n g and r e p a i r a r e ach ieved t h r o u g h proper ba lance o f Po lyquta and e m o l l i e n t a d d i t i v e s .

I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 9NF 3 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 4. R i t a l a n C ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 5 . Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 6 . Po lyquta 3000 (Polyquatern ium-10) 7 . D i st i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 8 . G l y c e r i n e 9 . S o r b i t o l (70% S o l n . ) 1Q.Supersat AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated

Lanol i n ) 1 l . K a t h o n CG 12.Fragrance

%w/w F u n c t i o n 2.00 R e - f a t t i n g 2 .00 Shine 0 .50 R e - f a t t i n g 1 . O O Shine, Combing 2 .00 Condi t i o n i ng 0 .50 Combing

2.00 Moi s t u r e 0.50 M o i s t u r e

1.00 Shine 0.02 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.25 Odor

88.23 ----------

Compounding Procedure: Heat water t o 70C. Add i t e m 6 and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Add i t e m s

8-10 w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75-80C. Hear i tems 1-5 t o 65C. Add t o water m i x t u r e . Cool t o 50C and add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s Ref. No. 119-25

230 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Leave-On Scalp & Hair Conditioner

A dab o f leave-on s c a l p and h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r massaged i n t o t h e ha i r and sca lp , w i 1 1 p r o v i d e c o n d i t i o n i n g and manageabi 1 i t y t o t h e h a i r w h i l e p r o v i d i n g m o i s t u r i z a t i o n o f t h e s c a l p . Phospho l i p id GLA w i l l h e l p m a i n t a i n a h e a l t h y s c a l p and minim- i z e i t c h and s c a l i n g caused by excess i ve dryness . I t i s a l s o a d e l i v e r y system f o r gamma l i n o l e n i c a c i d , an e s s e n t i a l f a t t y a c i d f o r n o r m a l i z i n g s k i n .

I n q r e d i e n t s : Water Hydroxyethy l C e l l u l o s e G lyco l D i s t e a r a t e Ce ty l A l coho l Monaquat SL-5 Phosphol i p i d GLA P r e s e r v a t i v e

Wt.% 90 .2

0 . 5 1 . 5

5 . 5 0 . 3 a . s .

1 . a

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s p l u s p r e s e r v a t i v e and heat t o 65-7OC. S t i r coo l t o 40C and add f rag rance , c o l o r , e t c . package.

Charge wa te r , s l o w l y add hyd roxye thy l c e l l u l o s e w i t h good

Appearance: Whi te p e a r l e d l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y : 2500 CP pH: 6 . 5

Forrnul a F-653

Extra Hold Conditioning Mousse

I. Water Amp homer A m i nomethyl Propanol Dow Corn ing 929 Emulsion Phosphol i p i d EFA SD3A A lcoho l

I I . H y d r o x y e t h y 1 C e l l u l o s e Water

% BY Weight 37 * 35

3.75 0 .60 0 . 4 0 0 . 6 0

10 .00

0.30 37.00

1 I I . P r o p e l l a n t 10 .00

Procedure: Prepare P a r t I and I 1 s e p a r a t e l y . To p repare P a r t 11, ca re -

f u l l y s p r i n k l e hyd roxye thy l c e l l u l o s e i n t o water w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Heat may be a p p l i e d t o h e l p s o l u b i l i z a t i o n . Blend P a r t I 1 t o I and t h e n a e r o s o l i z e . Formula F-554

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Hair Care Products 231

Light Oil Free Conditioner

L i g h t o i l f r e e w i t h a touch o f foaming t o c l e a n l y cond- i t i o n h a i r t o t h e ends.

1 . 2.

3 .

4. 5. 6 . 7 . 8. 9 .

I n q r e d i e n t s : ?~J&I’ F u n c t i o n G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K (Sucrose Cocoate) 2 .00 C o n d i t i o n i n g , M i l d G r i 1 l o t e n PSE 141G (Sucrose

S t e a r a t e ) 4 .00 R i t a C e t e a r y l 70/30 ( C e t e a r y l

A1 coho1 ) 2.50 PEG-20 C e t e a r y l A lcoho l 0.50 Propylene G l y c o l 1 - 0 0 Po lyquta 400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 1 .50 G l y c e r i n e 3.00 D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 85 .17 Fraarance-Per t Tvee 189-724 0 . 3 0 - .

l 0 . K a t h o n CG 1 1 . C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l n . )

C lean ing , M i l d

R e - f a t t i ng Combing Humectant Combi ng, Sty1 e M o i s t u r e

Odor ---_----

0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 9 , s . pH C o n t r o l

Compounding Procedure: Heat 1-4 t o 70C. Separa te ly d i s p e r s e i t e m 6 i n w a t e r . Then

add i t e m s 5 and 7 . Heat t o 80-85C. Then add i t e m s 1-4 t o m i x t u r e . Cool t o 40C and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 . 0 .

Ref . No. 118-121

Aloe Vera Hair Conditioner (Light)

A l i g h t s t r e n g t h c o n d i t i o n e r s p e c i a l l y f o r m u l a t e d f o r normal h a i r . Adds sheen t o h a i r .

I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 94.47 ---- 2 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 0 .25 Shine 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 .00 Emul s i f i e r , Thi ckener 4 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 . 0 0 Emul s i f i e r , Th i ckener 5 . Rita-STAC (Stear t r imon ium C h l o r i d e ) 1 .50 C o n d i t i o n e r ,

A n t i - s t a t i c 6 . S imchin R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) 0 . 7 5 C o n d i t i o n e r , Shine 7 . Kathon CG 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 8 . Fragrance q . s .Odor

Compounding Procedure: Heat i tems 1 and 2 t o 70C. Heat i t e m s 3-6 t o 65-70C and add

w i t h s t i r r i n g . Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l b a t c h reaches 40-45C. Add Kathon and Fragrance.

SOURCE: R.I.T.A, Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

R e f . No. 116-174

232 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Low Cost Relaxer

A lower c o s t r e l a x e r w i t h reduced o i l phase m a t e r i a l s . Laneto-100 p r o v i d e s s c a l p p r o t e c t i o n f rom i r r i t a t i o n .

I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a c h o l 2000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 3 . R i t o l e t h - 1 0 (O le th -10 ) 4 . Pe t ro la tum 5 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 w t . 6 . Laneto-100 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 7 . Propy lene G l y c o l 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 9 . Sodium Hydrox ide (25% S o l n . )

%w/w 1 5 . 0 0

1 . o o 2 . 0 0 8 . 0 0

1 0 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 2 . 0 0

5 2 . 5 0 9 . 0 0

Func t i on Emul s i f i e r Emul s i f i e r Emul s i f i e r V i s c o s i t y Spread Feel M o i s t u r e

Re laxer --------

Compounding Procedure: Combine i t ems 1-5 and hea t t o 60C. I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r ,

hea t i t ems 6-8 and heat t o 60C. Add t o o i l phase and mix a t low speed. Cool t o 45C and add Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n . Cont inue m i x i n g and f i l l t o j a r s a t 30C.

Re f . No. 120-26

Extra Stable Relaxer

Very c o s t e f f i c i e n t , s t a b l e r e l a x e r f o r m u l a t i o n wh ich i s easy t o p rocess .

I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a c h o l 5000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 1 0 . 0 0 2 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 W t . 16.00 3 . R i t a c h o l ( M i n e r a l O i l and L a n o l i n A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 4 . Pet ro la tum 1 7 . 0 0 5 . Ri tahyd rox (Hydroxy la ted L a n o l i n ) 0 .60 6 . R i t a SA ( S t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 0 0 7 . R i t o x 52 (PEG-40 S t e a r a t e ) 1 . 5 0 8 . G l y c e r i n e 6 .00 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 34.70 10.Methylparaben 0 . 2 0 11.Sodium Hydrox ide (20% S o l u t i o n ) 10.00

Func t ion E m u l s i f i e r Spread Feel Tex tu re S t a b i 1 i t y Emul s i f i e r S tab i 1 i t y M o i s t u r e

P r e s e r v a t i v e Re1 axer

------- -

Compounding Procedure: Combine i t ems 1 - 7 i n o r b i t a l m ixer a t 80C. Combine i t ems 8-10

a t 80C and add t o o i l m i x t u r e . Cool t o 65C. Add Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool i n i c e b a t h t o 25C. Homogenize i f necessary t o f u r t h e r improve s t a b i l i t y .

Ref . No. 117-21A

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Hair Care Products 233

Medium Hold, 80% VOC Pump Hair Spray

Dia former Z-A p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c l e a r , water w h i t e sp ray . I t a l s o reduces s t a t i c and improves m a n a g e a b i l i t y when t h e h a i r i s combed. I t s c l e a r , f l e x i b l e f i l m g i v e s a n a t u r a l l o o k i n g h o l d w h i l e o f f e r i n g e x c e l l e n t c u r l r e t e n t i o n .

I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : D i aformer Z -A Dow Corn ing 190 Monamide 716 SD 40 A lcoho l Fragrance Dei o n i zed Water

%w/w

5.00 0 . 2 0 0 . 1 0

75.00 0 . 1 0

Q . S .

Procedure: Add D ia fo rmer Z-A t o a l c o h o l , m i x i n g w e l l . Add water w i t h

m i x i n g . Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g ,

Propert i es :

Fo rmu la t i on CHF-12

Appearance: C r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e l i q u i d

55% VOC Pump Hair Spray

T h i s 55% VOC h a i r spray i n c o r p o r a t e s D ia fo rmer 2 -400 . T h i s deodor ized polymer i s w e l l s u i t e d t o l i g h t l y f rag ranced p r o d u c t s . I t p r o v i d e s a medium h o l d i n t h i s c r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e sp ray . Velsan P8-3 a c t s a a non-greasy s u p e r f a t t i n g agent .

I n a r e d i en ts r Phase A : D i aformer 2-400 SD 40 A lcoho l Velsan P8-3 Fragrance De ion ized Water

4 . 0 0 40 .00

0 . 5 0 0 . 0 5

Q . S .

Procedure:

m i x i n g . A d d rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s one a t a t i m e w i t h m i x i n g .

Propert i es :

Add D ia fo rmer 2-400 t o a l c o h o l , m i x i n g we1 1 . Add water w i t h

Appearance: C r y s t a l c l e a r , water w h i t e l i q u i d

Fo rmu la t i on CHF-14

SOURCE: Sandoz Cherni c a l s Corp. : Suggested Formul a t i ons

234 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Medium Strength Hair ConditionerC o n d i t i o n i n g des igned t o p r o v i d e n o u r i s h i n g and combing

b e n e f i t s w h i l e l e a v i n g a c l e a n f e e l i n t h e wet mode due t o Dimethy l Quat. I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . Rita-SBC (Steara lkon ium C h l o r i d e ) 1 .14 C o n d i t i o n e r 2 . Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 0 .48 C o n d i t i o n e r 3 . Ri ta-CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0.85 R e - f a t t i n g 4 . C i t r i c A c i d @ 100% 0.09 pH C o n t r o l 5 . Dimethy l Stearamine (Adogen MA-108) 0.13 C o n d i t i o n e r

7 . Promois WK-HQ (Hydroxypropyl t r i moni urn Hydro1 yzed Kera t i n ) 0 . 0 5 Body

8 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 9 . R i tapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 .05 Body 10.Propylene G l y c o l 0 . 5 0 Clean Feel 11 . Hydroxyethy l C e l l u l ose ( N a t r o s o l

250 HHR) 1.00 V i scos i t y 12.Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 13.Dow Corn ing 2-7224 0 .40 Combing 14.Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d 0 .17 Combing 15. Fragrance 0 . 2 5 Odor Compounding Procedure:

t o 70C, add i t e m 5 and mix 20 min. Add another 10% o f t h e water a t room tempera ture and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g 20 min. To remain ing 75% o f water add i t e m s 7,8 and 9 a t room tempera ture . Add i t e m 10 and s l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 11. A g i t a t e 15 min. w h i l e h e a t i n g b a t c h t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n f o r up t o 60 min. u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i tems 12,13 and 14, c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Then add q u a t e r n a r y / f a t t y a l c o h o l phase ( i t e m s 1-6) and f r a g r a n c e . M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m .

6. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 94.81 ---------

To 15% o f t o t a l water a t 65C add s e p a r a t e l y i t e m s 1-4. Heat

Ref . No. 116-1618

Medium Hair Conditioner Humectant c o n d i t i o n e r t o maximize combing f rom s i l i c o n e and

body f rom g l y c e r i n e . I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . R i ta-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i um

2 . R i t a GMS ( G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e ) 1 .00 C o n t r o l 3 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 5 . 0 0 Coat ing 4 . R i t a c e t i ( C e t y l E s t e r s ) 2.00 Combing 5 . R i tacet -PO (Ceteare th-20) 0.50 E m u l s i f i e r 6. G l y c e r i n e 1.00 Humectancy

8 . Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d 2.00 Combing, Shine 9 . Fragrance - Finesse Type 0 . 3 0 Odor 10.Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e Compounding Procedure:

Heat i tems 1-5 t o 70C. I n separa te beaker heat i t e m s 6 and 7 t o 75C. Add 1-5 t o water . M i x and c o o l t o 50C. Add s i l i c o n e and mix. Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e .

Ref . No. 118-117 SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested Formula t ions

C h l o r i d e ) 2 .40 C o n d i t i o n e r

7 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 85.77 --------

Hair Care Products 235

Moisture Balance Conditioner w/Cropeptide W

Al though t h i s easy-to-make c o n d i t i o n e r c o n t a i n s few i n g r e d - i e n t s , i t d e l i v e r s b i g c o n d i t i o n i n g b e n e f i t s .

I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : I nc roqua t CR Conc. (Ce tea ry l A l coho l (and) PEG-40 Castor

O i l (and) S tea ra l kon ium C h l o r i d e ) 6 .00

Par t B: Dei on i zed Water 92.70

P a r t C : C ropep t ide W (Hydro lyzed Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat

01 i gosaccar i des) 1 . 0 0 Methyl paraben 0 . 2 0 P ropy l paraben 0 .10

Procedure: Heat P a r t A and P a r t B s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C w i t h m i x i n g .

A t 70-75C, add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 40C. Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g and coo l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture .

pH: 4 . O t - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2,OOOt-10% (C25C) N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Fo rmu la t i on HP-158

"Leave-On" Conditioner Concentrate

1. I n c o r p o r a t e f r a g r a n c e . Take an exac t we igh t o f Concent ra te and add exac t we igh t o f f rag rance (depending on l e v e l a f t e r d i l - u t i o n . Blend t o g e t h e r w i t h thorough m i x i n g .

Note : Concent ra te c o n t a i n s o n l y enough p r e s e r v a t i v e t o p r o t e c t t h e c o n c e n t r a t e . Please add a d d i t i o n a l p r e s e r v a t i v e t o p roduc t d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n .

2. D i l u t e t h e above concen t ra ted b l e n d w i t h 7 p a r t s o f d e i o n i z e d water f o r a f i r m s e t , o r w i t h 9 p a r t s d e i o n i z e d water f o r r e g u l a r s e t t i n g p r o d u c t .

3 . Apply f i n i s h e d p roduc t t o shampooed and towe l d r i e d h a i r . D o n ' t r i n s e . S t y l e h a i r .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

236 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Natural Lipid Conditioner for Professional Salon

Mackerni um SDC-85 ( S t e a r a l kon i um C h l o r i d e ) Mackalene NDC (Oleamidopropyl Dimethy lamine

Weight ,% 1 . 5

(Oleamidopropyl Dimethy lamine L a c t a t e (and) P a l m i t - amidopropyl Dimethy lamine L a c t a t e (and) Palmi t o l - eami dopropy l Dimethy l ami ne L a c t a t e ) l . o

Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n ) ( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 .0

Mackol 1618 ( C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 1 . 8 S teare th-2 1 . E Macksta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) q s Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f i v e components t o water and h e a t t o 70 degrees C . 2 . Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add remain ing components. 3 . Cool and f i l l .

Mild Opaque Conditioner

Weight ,% Mackalene 326 (Stearamidopropyl Morpho l ine L a c t a t e ) 8 . 0 C e t y l A l c o h o l 1 . 8 Phosphor ic A c i d 0 . 6 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 3 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance, qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C . 2 . With s t i r r i n g , c o o l and add dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume

a t 40 degrees C .

Mild Pearl Conditioner

Wei aht% Mackalene 326 (Stearamidopropyl Morpho l ine L a c t a t e ) 7 . 0 PEG 400 D i s t e a r a t e 0 . 5 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) qs Water, dye, f r a g r a n c e , qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add t h e f i r s t t h r e e components t o water and heat t o 65

2. W i t h c o n t i n u o u s s t i r r i n g , c o o l t o 40 degrees C . and add dye,

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

degrees C.

p r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e .

Hair Care Products 237

Non-Aerosol Hair Spray with Protein

A non-aerosol h a i r spray based on p r o t e i n (Promois WK-HQ) and R i tapan DL. E x t r a sheen i s d e r i v e d f rom R i t a l a n AWS.

I n a r e d i e n t s : %&& 1 . SD Alcoho l - 40 66.70 2 . E t h y l E s t e r o f PVM/MA-Copolymer 7 . 0 0 3 . AMP-95 0 . 2 0 4 . Dimeth icone Copolyo l 0 .50 5 . R i t a l a n AWS (PPG-12-PEG-65 L a n o l i n O i l ) 0 .20 6 . Fragrance 0 . 1 0 7 . Promois WK-HQ ( P r o t e i n ) 0 .20 8 . R i tapan DL 0 . 1 0 9 . D i s t i 1 l ed /De i o n i zed Water 25.00

Funct i on Sol u b i 1 i t y H o l d N e u t r a l i z a t i o n Sheen Sheen Odor Repai r M o i s t u r e ----- ---

Compounding Procedure: Combine i t e m 2 t o a l c o h o l and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Add AMP and

mix w e l l . Add i t e m s 4-6 i n o r d e r w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Pre-mix i t ems 7-9 and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corc . : Re f . No. 1 2 0 - 2 4

Hair Rinse for Stressed Hair

Component: I. Emulgade 1000 N i

Eutanol G Cocopherol 1250

11. Dehyquart A Water, demin . /P rese rva t i on

pH-Value: approx. 4 V i s c o s i t y mPas, app rox . : 10.000

% 4,O 2,o 2;o

4 , O 88,O

P r e p a r a t i o n i n t h e Labora to ry :

Phase I. S t i r a t t h i s tempera tu re f o r 5 m inu tes . Cool down t o 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e a n d , i f necessary, hea t s e n s i t i v e a d d i t i v e s . Cool down t o 30C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH v a l u e e . g . w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

SOURCE: Henkel KGaA: F o r m u l a t i o n No. 90/322/7

M e l t phase I a t 80-850. Heat phase I 1 t o 80-85C and s t i r i n t o

238 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pearly Lotion Conditioner

Wei q h t ,% Mackalene 316 (S tearamidopropy l Dimethylamine L a c t a t e ) 7.0 PEG 400 D i s t e a r a t e 0 . 5 Sodium S u l f a t e 0 . 5 Propy lene G l y c o l 2 . 0 Macksta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) q s Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1. Add f i r s t f o u r components t o water and hea t t o 65 degrees C. 2 . Wi th m i l d a g i t a t i o n coo l t o 45 degrees C. and add rema in ing

components. 3 . Cool and f i l l .

Protein Lotion Conditioner

Wei q h t I % Macki ne 301 (S tearamidopropy l Dimethylamine) 1 . 5 Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 . 5 L a c t i c A c i d 88% 0 . 7 Mackpro NLP (Quatern i un-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1 . 5 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 .5 Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e sodium c h l o r i d e i n wa te r . 2 . Add f i r s t f o u r components and heat t o 70 degrees C . 3 . B1 end u n t i 1 homogenous. 4 . Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add remain ing components. 5 . Cool and f i l l .

Spray Leave-On Conditioner

Weiqht,% Mackpro NLP (Quatern i um-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1 . o Mackalene 426 ( I sos tea ramidopropy l Morpho l i ne L a c t a t e ) 3 .0 Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100,o

Procedures: 1 . Add components t o w a t e r . 2 . Heat t o 40 degrees C . and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

Hair Care Products 239

Pump Gel Type Spritz

A g e l s e t t i n g l o t i o n which can be d ispensed f rom a pump. Conta ins S e t t i n g agents, a n t i - s t a t s and R i tapan D L f o r r e p a i r and l u s t e r .

I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 . Propy lene G l y c o l 3 . R i tapan DL (Panthenol DL) 4. R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e G e l ) 5 . P o l y q u t a 3000 (Polyquatern ium-10) 6 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 7. H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e 8. R i t a CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 9 . Fraarance

w 88.87

5.00 1 .oo 1 - 0 0 2.00 1 .oo 1 .oo 0 .50 0.20

F u n c t i o n

Humectant Repa i r Repai r S e t , A n t i - S t a b i 1 i t y Gel 1 i ng Condi t i on Odor

______---

l0 .Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t

Compoun Comb

u n t i l c u n i f o r m and mix

Ref .

i ng Procedure: ne i tems 3 and 4 w i t h t h e water and h e a t t o 60C e a r . D isperse i tems 5 and 7 i n t o b a t c h . Mix u n t (about 30 m i n u t e s ) . Then add remain ina i t e m s i n w e l l I NO. 118-180

Moisturizing Hair Styling Gel

I n a r e d i e n t 1 . D i s t i 1 l e d / D e i o n i zed Water 2 . A c r i t a m e r 940 (Carbomer 940) 3 . G l y c e r i n e 4. R i tapan DL (Panthenol d l ) 5 . Ethanol @ 95% 6 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 7 . Ritaphenone 3 (Benzophenone-3) 8 . Tet rasodium EDTA 9. PPG-12-Buteth-16 1O.PVP 11. Fragrance 12.DMDM Hydanto in 13. T r i e t h a n o l ami ne @ 99% 1 4 . D i s t i 1 led /De i o n i zed Water 1 5 . R i t a l a s t i n EL 30

w 58.20

0.60 10.00 0.20

10.00 5.00 0.10 0 . 1 0 5 . 0 0 1.50 0 . 1 0 0 .20 0 .60 5 .40 3.00

. S t a t

M 1 o r d e r

ng

ve

X

Funct i on

Gel 1 i ng C o n d i t i o n i n g Moi s t u r i z a t i o n C l a r i t y Shine UV Absorber C1 a r i t y Set Set Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e PH

_-__--_---

-----_-- M o i s t u r e

Compounding Procedure:

u n t i l u n i f o r m . S e p a r a t e l y combine i t e m s 4-12 and i t e m 15. M i x u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add t o A c r i t a m e r m i x t u r e . Premix 13 & 14 f o r 10% TEA s o l u t i o n . Add t o m i x t u r e and a g i t a t e d u r i n g t h i c k e n i n g .

SOURCE: R . I . T , A . Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Combine i t e m s 1 + 3 and m i x . Add i t e m 2 s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n

Ref . No. 118-142

240 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Pump Spray Hair Detangler

H e a l t h y s h i n e d e t a n g l i n g sp ray based on c a t i o n i c s

I n q r e d i e n t s : %w/w F u n c t i o n 1 . Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 2 . 0 0 C a t i o n i c 2 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 8 8 . 5 0 -------- 3 . 4 .

5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 . 10 .

Dimeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l 8 88183) Supersat AWS-4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated

G l y c e r i n e 13 99% Propylene G l y c o l R i t a p a n DL (Panthenol DL) S imchin R e f i n e d ( J o j o b a O i l ) G lydan t Fragrance - P e r t P l u s Type #189-724

Lanol i n )

1 .00 S l i o

1 .00 Feel 4.00 M o i s t u r e 2 . 0 0 Moi s t u r e 1 . O O H e a l t h 0 . 1 5 Shine 0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.15 Odor

Compounding Procedure: Heat water t o 87C and add i t e m 4 . M i x u n t i l c l e a r . Add

rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s except p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume. Cool t o 46C and add i t ems 9 and 10.

Re f . No. 118-171

Hot Oil Treatment

Hot o i l t r e a t m e n t f o r deeo o e n e t r a t i o n o f t h e h a i r s h a f t . Rejuvenates h a i r t o i t s h e a l t h y s t a t e

I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . M i n e r a l O i 1 65/70 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l

L a c t y l a t e ) 3 . L a u r y l M y r i s t y l A l coho l 4 . Phenoxyethanol 5 . Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 6. L a n o l i n - X - t r a Deodor ized ( L a n o l i n ) 7. F rag rance-F lo ra l #169-120 8 . G lydan t

Compounding Procedure: Combine i t e m s 1-6 and hea t t o 165F

Add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . R e f . No. 118-119

%w/w F u n c t i o n 89.00 M o i s t u r e , Shine

5 . 0 0 S u b s t a n t i v e

i o n 2 . 0 0 Coup l i ng 1 . O O UV P r o t e c 0 . 5 0 Emol 1 i e n t 2 . 0 0 Repa i r 0 .30 Odor 0 . 2 0 P rese rva t

M ix and c o o l t o

ve

120F.

SOURCE: R.I.T.A, C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Hair Care Products 241

Ringing Gel

C l e a r r i n g i n g g e l w i t h m o i s t u r i z a t i o n f rom P a t i o n i c I S L and g e l s t r u c t u r e f rom Supersa t .

I n g r e d i e n t s : w/w F u n c t i o n 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 42.40 _ _ _ - - _ _ _ _ _ 2 . G l y c e r i n e 15.00 Feel 3 . M i n e r a l O i l 70 sus. 12.00 Coat 4 . R i t o l e t h 5 (O le th -5 ) 10.00 E m u l s i f i e r 5 . Supersat AWS 4 (Peg-20 Hydrogenated Lano l i n )17 .00 Gel 6 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 1 . O O M i l d n e s s 7 . 2-Phenoxyethanol 2 .00 Sol u b i 1 i z e r 8. Germal l I 1 0 .40 P r e s e r v a t i ve 9 . Fragrance 0 . 2 0 Odor

Compounding Procedure: Heat i t e m s 1 and 2 t o 165F. Heat i t e m s 3-7 t o 165F. Add i t e m s

3-7 t o i t e m s 1 and 2 . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Pour i n j a r s a t 135F. Re f . No. 118-160

Micro Emulsion Ringing Gel

Shebu WS r i n g i n g m i c r o emuls ion g e l . I d e a l f o r h a i r d r e s s i n g w i t h m i l d n e s s and s h i n e .

I n g r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 53.70 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 2 . G l y c e r i n e 10.00 Feel 3 . M i n e r a l O i l , L i g h t 12.00 Sh ine 4 . R i t o l e t h 5 (O le th -5 ) 10.00 Emulsi f i e r 5. Supersat AWS 4 (PEG-20 Hydrogenated L a n o l i n ) 1 2 . 0 0 Ring\Gel 6 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodi um I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 1 . O O M i 1 dness 7 . Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 1 . O O Shine 8 . G1 ydant (DMDM Hydanto i n ) 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e 9 . Fragrance 0 .10 Odor

Compounding Procedure:

hea t t o 175F. Add t h i s t o t h e f i r s t phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . (Note: process may need an add-back o f 3-5% w a t e r ) . Cool t o 130F o r u n t i l t h i c k e n i n g occu rs . Add i t e m s 8 and 9 . Add back wa te r l o s s . F i l l a t t h i s tempera tu re i n t o j a r s and c o v e r .

Heat i t e m s 1,2 and 7 t o 175F. Combine i t e m s 3,4,5 and 6 and

R e f . N o . 118-162

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

242 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Salon Type Hair Conditioner

S t a t e o f t h e a r t p r o t e i n / p a n t h e n o l based h a i r c o n d i t i o n e r des igned f o r achievement o f s a l o n t y p e per formance. I n n r e d i e n t s : %w/w F u n c t i o n 1 . R i t a CA ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 .85 Clean Feel 2 . Rita-STAC ( S t e a r t r i m o n i u m C h l o r i d e ) 0.44 C o n d i t i o n e r 3 . Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 0 .48 C o n d i t i o n e r 4. C i t r i c A c i d I3 100% 0.09 pH C o n t r o l 5 . D imethy l Stearamine (Adogen MA-108) 0.13 C o n d i t i o n e r 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 95.51 ______-- -_ 7 . Promois WK-HQ (HydroxyDropvl t r i m o n - _ . . -

i um Hydro1 yzed Kera t i n) 0 .05 Body 8 . R i t a l o e ZOOM ( A l o e Vera Ge l ) 0 . 0 5 Body 9. R i tapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 0 .05 Body 10 .Propy lene G l y c o l 0 .50 Clean Fee 11 .Hydroxyethy l C e l l u l o s e ( N a t r o s o l

250 HHR) I -00 V i s c o s i t y 12.Kathon CG 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t 13.Dow Corn ing 2-7224 0 .40 Combing 14.Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d 0.17 Combing 15.Fragrance 0.25 Odor

ve

Compoundi ng Procedure: To 15% o f t o t a l water a t 65C add s e p a r a t e l y i tems 1-4.

Heat t o 70C, add i t e m 5 and mix 20 m i n . Add another 10% o f t h e water a t room tempera ture and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g 20 min. To remain ing 75% o f water add i tems 7,8 and 9 a t room temp- e r a t u r e . Add i t e m 10 and s l o w l y s i f t i n i t e m 11. A g i t a t e 15 m i n . w h i l e h e a t i n g b a t c h s l i g h t l y t o 35C. When b a t c h t h i c k e n s , i n c r e a s e a g i t a t i o n f o r up t o 60 min. u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Ref . No. 116-181A

Salon Type Hair Conditioner

Salon t y p e h a i r c o n d i t i o n i n g i s ach ieved w i t h t h e h e l p o f Shebu and an a l l - n a t u r a l c o n d i t i o n i n g agent .

I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . R i t a c h o l 1000 ( R . I . T . A . B lend) 2. Shebu R e f i n e d (Shea B u t t e r ) 3 . R i t o l e t h - 1 0 (O le th -10) 4. Rita-CTAC (Cetr imonium C h l o r i d e ) 5. G l y c e r i n e 6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 7 . Fragrance - S i 1 k i e n c e Type #169-120 8 . Kathon CG

w 5.00 0 . 5 0 0 .50 2 .00 3.00

88.67 0 .30 0.03

F u n c t i o n Emu1 s i f i e r N a t u r a l Shine Appl i c a t i on C o n d i t i o n i n g M o i s t u r e

Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e

--------

Compounding Procedure: Combine i tems 1-4 and h e a t t o 70C. I n a s e p a r a t e beaker

combine i t e m s 5 and 6 and heat t o 75-80C. Add i tems 1-4 t o water m i x t u r e and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40C and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e .

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s Ref . No. 118-120

Hair Care Products 243

Silicone Hair Gel

S i l i c o n e based s e t t i n g g e l . H igh g l y c e r i n e a p p r o p r i a t e f o r c u r l a c t i v a t i o n . R i tapan D1 f o r humectancy.

I n n r e d i e n t s : 1 . D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 2 . Acr i tamer 940 (Carbomer 940) 3. G l y c e r i n e 4. Propy lene G l y c o l 5 . Dimeth icone Copolyo l 6 . R i tapan DL (Panthenol d l ) 7 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 8 . Fragrance 9. G1 ydant (DMDM Hydanto i n ) 1O.TEA @ 99%

3 81.10

0.80 10.00 5.00 1 . o o 0.80 0 . 5 0 0.10 0 . 2 0 0.80

F u n c t i o n

G e l l i n g C u r l Emol 1 i e n t Shine M o i s t u r e Shine Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e PH

__ -_______

Compounding Procedure:

Premix i tems 4,5,6 and 7 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Premix i t e m s 8 and 9 i n t o i t e m 3. Combine i t e m 10 w i t h remain ing 10% o f t h e w a t e r . N e u t r a l i z e Acr i tamer s o l u t i o n . When complete add o t h e r premixes and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Ref . No. 118-156

D isperse s l o w l y i t e m 2 i n t o 90% o f t h e water w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

Shebu Hair Setting Gel

Water based s e t t i n g g e l w i t h Shebu. The s e t t i n g agent i s p l a s t i c i z e d w i t h Supersat f o r s o f t e r h o l d .

I n a r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n

2. Acr i tamer 940 (Carbomer 940) 0.70 G e l l i n g 1 . D i s t i 1 led/Dei o n i zed Water 60.80 --__----__ 3. D i s t i 1 1 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 26.50 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 4 . G l y c e r i n e 4.00 Moi s t u r e 5. Shebu WS (PEG-50 Shea B u t t e r ) 3 .00 L u s t e r 6. Supersat AWS 4 (Peg 20-Hydrogenated L a n o l i n ) 1 . 0 0 P l a s t i c i z e r 7 . PVP K-30 2 . 0 0 Set 8. Ri tapan DL (Panthenol d l ) 0.20 Moi s t u r e 9. TEA @ 50% 1.40 pH 10,Fragrance 0 .20 Odor 11 . DMDM Hydanto in 0 . 2 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure: S l o w l y d i s p e r s e Acr i tamer i n t o i t e m 1 . A g i t a t e u n t i l f u l l y

hydra ted . Combine i t e m s 3-9 u n t i l u n i f o r m ( s l i g h t h e a t i n g may be necessary ) . Add t h i s t o t h e Acr i tamer m i x t u r e , add i t e m s 10 and 11, and a g i t a t e u n t i l u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Ref . No. 118-158

244 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Stiff Holding Hairspray

I nq r ed i e n t s : Amphomer AMP C r o t e i n AD Dow Corn ing 556 C i t r o f l e x 2 O c t y l D imethy l PABA SDA 40 Propel 1 a n t A-46

P r e p a r a t i o n : D i s s o l v e AMP i n t h e anhydrous a l c o h o l . Wh

P a r t s by Wei q h t 4.75 0.80 0.20 0 . 1 5 0 .20 0 . 0 5 6 .85

30.00

l e ma in ta n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add Amphomer t o t h e v o r t e x . Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s complete. Add ba lance o f i n g r e d i e n t s . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e Charge p r o p e l l a n t . P r e c i s i on Speci f i c a t i o n s :

A c t u a t o r : 21-8173 0.0201' MB Body: 07-3415 0.062" x 0 .020" VT

Stem Gasket: 05-0310 Buna D i p Tube: 09-3530 0 .060" S p r i n g : 06-6010 SS

Stem: 0.4-1230 0.020" CUP: 12-8700

Formula 5887-80-4

Mater i a1 s : V e r s a t y l - 4 2

DC-193 S i 1 i cone DC-556 S i 1 i cone G1 y c e r i ne C i t r o f 1 ex-2 Monamid 716 Sunarome OMC Fragrance Ethano l , Anhydrous P r o p e l l a n t A-46

AMP-95

Aerosol Shaping Hairspray

Parts/Wei a h t 3 .75 0 . 9 6 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.05 Q.S

64.64 30.00

Va lve : P r e c i s i o n .018" stem ,018 x .013" body .0181' FT A c t u a t o r

Spray Rate: 0 .56 g/sec P r e p a r a t i o n :

Add a l c o h o l t o t h e t a n k . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y add V e r s a t y l - 4 2 t o t h e v o r t e x . Add AMP-95 and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g u n t i l s o l u t i o n i s complete. Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s o f t h e c o n c e n t r a t e . When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and homogeneous, f i l t e r and f i l l c o n c e n t r a t e t o t h e can. Charge p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 6258-07

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Suggested Formula t ions

Hair Care Products 245

Styling/Conditioning Mousse

I n g r e d i e n t s : A F o r e s t a l l

B r i j 721 Dow Corn ing 929 Emulsion Water, d e i o n i zed

B G a f f i x VC-713 SD Alcoho l 40

C Hydrocarbon P r o p e l l a n t A-46 Procedure:

Heat (A) t o 60C w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o Add (A) t o ( E ) w i t h s t i r r i n g . Pack i n s u i t a b l e ae roso l c o n t a i n e r s and p r e s s u r i z e w i t h (C) a t room tempera tu re .

Formula PC 8216

%w/w 1 . 4 0 0.50 0 . 1 0

7 8 - 0 0 5.00

1 0 . 0 0 5 .00

40C.

Clear Gel Grooming Agent & ConditionerL?

I n g r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l , Marcol 70

B r i j 97 A r l a t o n e G A t l a s G-3570 Propylene g l y c o l Sorbo

E Water, d e i o n i zed Procedure:

Heat ( A ) t o 9OC and ( E ) t o 95C. Add ( 8 ) s t i r r i n g . Remove f rom hea t and c o n t i n u e t o c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r (abou t o r j a r s .

Y U 14.10 15.50 15.50

0 . 1 0 8 .60 6.90

39.30

t o (A) w i t h moderate s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e 65C) pour i n t o tubes

Hair Straightening Cream

I na r ed i e n t s : A G l y c e r o l monostearate

B r i j 35 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l M i n e r a l o i l

Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e Water

D *Perfume * q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 60C and ( E ) t o 62C. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h c o n s t a n t

a g i t a t i o n u n t i l c o o l . Add (C) . M i x t h o r o u g h l y . Add (D). Formula HC-17

B Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

%w/w 20.00

2 .00 5 . 0 0 5 .00 1 . o o

40.00

3 .50 23.50

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

246 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Styling MousseX22176-106 (Hydroalcoholic)

Concent ra te : D i s t i l l e d water q . s . * t o 100 Eastman AQ 55s polymer 8 . 0 Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e e m u l s i f i e r 2 .0 Monamid 150 ADD 1 . o Myvatex 60 e m u l s i f i e r 0 . 3 SDA-40C a l c o h o l 2 0 . 0 Fragrance q. s . * C i t r i c a c i d q . s . *

Procedure: 1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and water t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l

2 . Cool t o room tempera ture . 3 . S l o w l y add Myvatex Tex ture L i t e w i t h high-speed a g i t a t i o n .

4 . When u n i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD. 5 . S l o w l y add SDA-40C a l c o h o l . 6 . Add f r a g r a n c e . 7. A d j u s t pH t o 6:5-7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 8. Aerosol f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5.23 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t

( A e r o p r e s s ) .

*q. s . = q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t

t h e polymer i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d i n t h e w a t e r .

Care shou ld be taken when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n .

Styling MousseX22176-107 (Alcohol-Free)

Concent ra te : w D i s t i 1 l e d water q . s . * t o 100 Eastman AQ 55s polymer 8 .0 Myvatex T e x t u r e L i t e emu1 s i f i e r 5 . 5 Monamid 150 ADD 1 . 0 Myvatex 60 e m u l s i f i e r 0 . 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . * Fragrance q . s . * C i t r i c a c i d q . s . *

Procedure: 1 . Heat Eastman AQ 55s and water t o 80-85C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l t h e

2 . Cool t o room tempera ture and add p r e s e r v a t i v e . 3 . S l o w l y add Myvatex Tex ture L i t e w i t h high-speed a g i t a t i o n .

4. When u n i f o r m , add Myvatex 60 and Monamid 150 ADD. 5. Add f r a g r a n c e . 6 . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5-7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 7 . Aerosol f i n a l c o n c e n t r a t e a t 5 .23 g/mL o f A46 p r o p e l l a n t

(Aeropress) .

SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co. : Suggested Formula t ions

* q . s . = q u a n t i t y s u f f i c i e n t

po lymer i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d i n t h e w a t e r .

Care shou ld be t a k e n when m i x i n g t o a v o i d a e r a t i o n .

Hair Care Products 247

Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-057 (Pump)

Phase A : D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ 55s polymer

Phase 0: Germal l I 1 d i a z o l i d i n y l u rea Methy lparaben

Phase C : L u v i s k o l VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer--50% s o l i d s

Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C. 2. With m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 m i n u t e s . 3 . Cool t o 60C, add Phase 6 , and mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . 5 . Add water l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g . 6 . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m ; f i l t e r and package.

pH: 6 .0+-1 .0

Water-Based Hair Spray X21980-058 (Aerosol)

Phase A : D i s t i l l e d water Eastman AQ 38s polymer

Phase 0: Germal l I 1 d i azo1 i d i n y l urea Methy lparaben

Phase C : L u v i s k o l VA 73W PVP/VA copolymer--50% s o l i d s

Phase D: Dymel A d i m e t h y l e t h e r

%X 90.4

5 . 0

0 .3 0 . 3

4 . 0

rn 60.4

5 .0

0 . 3 0 . 3

4.0

30 .0

Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C. 2 . When m i x i n g , h o l d a t 80-85C f o r 15 minu tes . 3 . Cool t o 60C, add Phase B, and mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . 4. Cool t o 40C and add Phase C . 5 . Add water l o s t d u r i n g h e a t i n g . 6. Add phase D a t room tempera ture . 7 . M ix u n t i l un i fo rm; f i l t e r and package. 8. A g i t a t e aeroso l c o n t a i n e r t o ensure s o l u t i o n o f p r o p e l l a n t .

SOURCE: Eastman Chemical Co,: Suggested Formula t ions

pH: 6.0+-1.0

248 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Wheat Germ Foaming Conditioner

Wei a h t .% Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropyl Be ta ine ( V i a G l y c e r i d e ) 1 0 . 0 Mackal ene 11 6 (Cocami dopropy l D imethy l ami ne L a c t a t e ) 8 . 0 Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimethylami ne

L a c t a t e) 1 . o N a t r o s o l 250 HHR 0 . 7 Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Comple te ly h y d r a t e N a t r o s o l . 2 . Add f i r s t t h r e e components and hea t t o 40 degrees C . 3 . B lend u n t i l c l e a r . 4 . Add rema in ing components and c o o l .

Natural Lipid Styling Mousse

Wei a h t , % PVP/VA E335 4.5 SDA Alcoho l 21 .5 Mackpro NLP (Quatern i um-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 4 . 0 De ion ized Water, F ragrance, Dye qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Combine components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2. P r e s s u r i ze w i t h s u i t a b l e p r o p e l 1 a n t

Pump Type Hair Spray

Resyn 26-1 31 4 Wei g h t , %

6 . 0 Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )

De ion ized Water 7 . 6 ( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 1 . o

E thano l , F ragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . D i s s o l v e Resyn 26-1314 i n a l c o h o l . 2. Add rema in ing components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

Hair Care Products 249

55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray

I n g r e d i e n t s : L o v o c r y l 47 AMP De ion i zed Water Anhydrous Ethano l , SDA-40 Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e DME

Cloud P o i n t : <-35C

Va lve : Seaqu is t Va lve NS-34 Stem: 0 .01 3" Gasket : B Cup: Regu

Code S p r i n g : 0 Body: Cap Vapor Tap D i p Tube: A c t u a t o r :

P a r t s by Wei q h t 8 . 0 0 1 .38

35.62 22.00

q.s. 9 , s .

33.00

t y l 0 .042" T H K . Code: 501 a r , Epoxy t o p , Laminate Bottom, Dimpled,

1610 020" ss 1 l a r y 0 . 0 13"

0.040' ' Excel 200 M i s t y 0.016" M i s t y

P r e p a r a t i on :

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 47. M i x u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . F i l t e r and f i l l , t h e n charge w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 7625:638

D i s s o l v e AMP i n water and e t h a n o l . Whi l e m a i n t a i n i n g good

80% VOC Non-Aerosol Hair Spray

T h i s 80% VOC non-aerosol h a i r spray has a n a t u r a l f e e l and e x c e l l e n t d r y i n g t i m e w i t h a f i n e , m i s t y spray .

I n g r e d i e n t s : Lovocry l -47 NaOH DC 193 d l -Pantheno l C i t r o f l e x - 2 D e i o n i z e d Water Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40

P a r t s by Wei q h t 5 . 0 0 0 .40 0 . 3 0 0 . 2 1 0.20

13 .89 8 0 . 0 0

Va lve S p e c i f i c a t i o n : Calmar Mark I 1

P r e p a r a t i o n : D i s s o l v e NaOH i n water and e thano l . Whi l e mai n t a i n i ng good

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l - 4 7 . When s o l u t i o n i s comple te , add r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s and mix w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l . Formula 7577-65

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical C o . : Suggested Formulas

A c t u a t o r : WTS Head

250 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

80% VOC Hair Spray

I n g r e d i e n t s : Amp homer AMP C i t r o f 1 ex-2 Monamid 716 G1 y c e r i ne d l Panthenol Sol u l an-75 Neo-Hel iopan AV Anhydrous Ethano l , Prope l 1 a n t 152A N-butane

SDA-40

P a r t s bv Weight 5.00 0 .82 0.30 0 .20 0.10 0.10 0 .10 0 . 0 5

55.00 13.33 25.00

Valve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n Valve Corp. Stem: 04-1215 .016" D i p Tube: 09-2010 Stem Gasket : 05-0350 B u t y l A c t u a t o r S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos S p r i n g : 06-6010 SS O r i f i c e S i z e : ,025" MB Concave Body: 07-7970 .016" LD Mount ing Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon

T/B Dimpled F u l l Bond P r e p a r a t i o n :

s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer. When s o l u t i o n i s complete, add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r , f i l l and charge w i t h p r o p e l l a n t s . Formula 7924:28

D i s s o l v e AMP i n e t h a n o l . W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n ,

55% VOC Aerosol Hair Spray

I n g r e d i en t s ; Lovocry l AMP R h o d o r s i l O i l s 70041 V O .65

SDA-40 D I Water Anhydrous Ethano l , Prope l 1 a n t DME

V a l v i ng Speci f i c a t Seaqu is t NS 34 Stem O r i f i c e : 0 Gasket: B u t y l 0 .

on8 :

P a r t s b v Weight 5.00 0.89 1 .oo

38.11 22.00 33.00

01 3" 042" Thk.Code: 501

Cup: Regular , Epoxy Top, Laminate Bottom, Dimpled, Code: 1610 S p r i n g : 0.020" SS Vapor Tap: 0.013" Tubing I D : 0.040" A c t u a t o r : Excel 1 200 M i s ty /O. 106" M i s t y

D i s s o l v e AMP i n e thano l and water . Whi le m a i n t a i n i n g good P r e p a r a t i o n :

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l . When s o l u t i o n i s complete, add R h o d o r s i l O i l s 70041 VO .65 and mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l - c h a r g e can w i t h p r o p e l l a n t . Formula 7746-137 SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co I : Suggested Formulas

Hair Care Products 251

80% VOC Hair Spray

Resyn 28-2930 Amphomer LV-71 AMP C i t r o f l e x - 2 Monamid 716 G l y c e r i n e Panthenol Sol u l an-75 Neo-He1 i opan AV Anhydrous Ethano l , SDA-40 Prope l 1 a n t 152A N-butane Fragrance

Cloud P o i n t : <-35C

3.00 0.81 0.44 0.30 0.20 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.05

55.00 14.90 25 .00

g . s .

Valve: P r e c i s i o n Va lve Corp. Stem: 04-121 5 . 01 6" Stem Gasket: 05-0350 B u t y l

Body: 07-7970 .016" LD Mount ing Cup: 32-7300-62/F lat , Epon T/B Dimpled F u l l Bond D i p Tube: 09-2010 A c t u a t o r S t y l e : 21-8146 Kosmos O r i f i c e S i z e : .025" ME3 Concave

S p r i n g : 06-6010 ss

Formul a 7318-93

High Humidity Hair Spray

I n g r e d i e n t s : Resyn 28-2913 AMP C r o t e i n AD Anhydrous

Fragrance Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 Propel 1 a n t A-46

DC- 1 90

P a r t s by Wei s h t 2.50 0.24 0.20 0.20

71 .86 25.00

Q . S .

Valve: P r e c i s i o n Stem: 0.018" (#04-1220) Stem Gasket: Buna (#OS-0310) S p r i n g : SS (#06-6010)

Mount ing Cup: F l a t , Epon Top/Bottom, Dimpled (#12-7100) A c t u a t o r : 0.018'' FT (#01-1836)

D i s s o l v e AMP i n anhydrous e t h a n o l , SDA-40. S l o w l y add Resyn

Body: 0.018" x 0.013" VT (#07-0131)

P r e p a r a t i o n :

28-2913 t o t h e s o l u t i o n w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n . Add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i 1 homogeneous. F i 1 t e r and fi 11 c o n c e n t r a t e . Charge p r o p e l l a n t .

Formula 6472:103

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formulas

252 Cosmetic and Toiletv Formulations

80% VOC Aerosol Shaper Hair SprayI n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t s by Wei s h t Amphomer LV-71 3.50 AMP Regular 0.60 Armeen DM 18D 0.25 C i t r o f 1 e x - 2 0.20 Monamid 716 0.20 S o l u l a n 75 0.10 Neo He l iopan AV 0.05 V a r i o n C ADG LS 0.20 Dei o n i zed Water 14.90 Anhydrous E t h a n o l , SDA-40 50.00 N-butane 11 .oo DM E 19.00 Va lve S p e c i f i c a t i o n s : P r e c i s i o n Valve

Stem: 0.016'' (04-1215) Stem Gasket: B u t y l (05-0350) S p r i n g : SS (06-6010)

Mount ing Cup: F l a t , Epon T/B Dimpled F u l l Bond A c t u a t o r : Kosmos MB Concave 0.025'' (21-8146)

D i s s o l v e AMP Regular and Armeen DM 1ED i n water and e t h a n o l .

Body: 0.016'' LD (07-7970)

P r e p a r a t i on :

W h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g good a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n Amphomer LV-71. When s o l u t i o n i s complete, add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and mix w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i l l .

Formul a 8002 : 183

High Solids 80% VOC Hair SprayI n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t s by Weight L o v o c r y l 47 10.00 AMP 1.73 C i t r o f 1 ex-2 0.20 Monamid 716 0.15 G1 y c e r i ne 0.10 Panthenol 0 .10 Dei o n i zed Water 7 .72 Anhydrous Ethano l , SDA-40 50. 00 N-butane 12.00 DME 18.00 Fragrance q . s .

Valve: P r e c i s i o n Va lve Corp. Cloud P o i n t : (-35C

Stem: 04-1215 0.016" Gasket: 05-0350 B u t y l

Cup: 32-7300-62 F l a t , Epon T/B, Dimpled, F u l l Bond Vapor Tap: None D i p Tube: 09-2010 0.122" A c t u a t o r : 0 .01 6" MB Concave D e l t a

S p r i n g : 06-6010 SS Body: 07-7970 0.016" LD

P r e p a r a t i o n :

a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y s i f t i n L o v o c r y l 47. When d i s s o l v e d , add remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l homogeneous. F i l t e r and f i 11 , t h e n charge w i t h p r o p e l 1 a n t s .

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Suggested Formulas

D i s s o l ve AMP i n water and e thano l . W h i 1 e mai n t a i n i ng good

Formula 7625:95

Section VIILotions

253

254 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After Exercise Body Lotion

T h i s r e f r e s h i n g l o t i o n i s an e x c e l l e n t c a r r i e r f o r f r a g r a n c e s and w i l l p r o v i d e m o i s t u r i z i n g a l o n g w i t h a s k i n smoothing e f f e c t .

P a r t I: Water Carbomer 940 T r i e thano l ami ne (99%) P a r t 11: Water Phosphol i p i d SV SD3A A l c o h o l P a r t 111: Phenyl Dimeth icone T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e (Cosmetic Whi te )

% bv Weiaht

51 - 6 5 0.25 0 . 4 0

30.00 1 . o o

15.00

1.50 0.20

Procedure:

t h e Carbomer 940 i s d i s s o l v e d , add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , m i x water w i t h P h o s p h o l i p i d SV and heat t o 65C w i t h m i x i n g . When d i s s o l v e d , c o o l t o 30-35C t h e n add SD3A a l c o h o l I Blend P a r t I 1 t o I m i x i n g we1 1, and p a r t I 1 1 as a s l u r r y and b l e n d t o g e t h e r u n t i l a u n i f o r m w h i t e l o t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Add c o l o r , f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d and package.

S l o w l y add Carbomer 940 t o water w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . A f t e r

Therapeutic Humectant Lotion

P a r t A : Phosphol i p i d SV G1 y c e r i n T i 02 Water Methy l Paraben P a r t B: S teare th-2 Hexyl L a u r a t e C12-Cl5 A lcoho l Benzoates Dimeth icone and T r i m e t h y l s i l o x y s i l i c a t e Propy l Paraben

% bv Weiaht

1 . 7 15.0 0 . 5

7 2 . 6 0 . 2

3 . 3 3 . 0 2 . 0 1 . 5 0 .2

Procedure: Combine phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y w i t h h e a t i n g t o 65C.

Homogenize B i n t o A f o r a s u f f i c i e n t t i m e t o ensure good e m u l s i f i c a t i o n . S t i r c o o l t o 45C, add f ragrance, and package. Comment 8 :

T h i s smooth p o u r a b l e l o t i o n p r o v i d e s i n s t a n t r e l i e f o f d r y , chapped s k i n and p r o v i d e s a generous amount o f e m o l l i e n t s and g l y c e r i n . The use of Phosphol i p i d SV e l i m i n a t e s any g r e a s i ness and l e a v e s t h e s k i n w i t h an e l e g a n t a f t e r f e e l . SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions 255

Alcoholic Milk Lotion

(0) S t e a r i c A c i d C e t y l A lcoho l I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e G l y c e r y l Monostearate ( S e l f Emu1 s i f y i ng Type) Po lyoxyethy lene (20) C e t y l E t h e r Methy l Paraben

(W) A j idew N-50 Propy l ene G1 y c o l Water

(E) E t h y l A lcoho l

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0 ) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 50C w i t h s t i r r i n g and add ( E ) . 4 . F i n i s h m i x i n g a t 35-40C.

pH: 5 .1 V i s c o s i t y : 270 cps

Milk Lotion

(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 42-44C) C e t y l A lcoho l S o r b i t a n Monostearate Po lyoxyethy lene (20) S o r b i t a n Monooleate Tocopherol A c e t a t e

( W ) Aj idew T-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 42C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 6 . 2 V i s c o s i t y : 25,000 cps

SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

2 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0 1 . 1 1 . 9 q . s .

3 . 0 5 . 0

74.0

10.0

31 .6 4.5 4 . 5 1 . 8 2 . 8 0 .2

4.0 50.5 0 .1

256 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a h i g h l y absorbent l o t i o n t h a t can be d ispensed f r o m a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r s o f t b o t t l e . The a lpha hydroxy a c i d (AHA) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s f o r m u l a i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use l e v e l o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 10%. The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f Lexemul 561, Lexemul AR and Lexamine 5-13. The c a t i o n i c Lexa- mine S-13 enhances t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n and may a c t as an a u x i l i a r y AHA b u f f e r . The p r o d u c t produces min- ima l w h i t e n i n g d u r i n g rub-out . A . De ion ized Water

G l y c e r i n USP (99.7%) Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A l c o h o l (Myacide SP) L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)

67.42 3.00 0.20 0.20 0.60

B. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) S tearamidoethy l D i e t h y l ami ne

(Lexemul AR) 1 .25 Stearami dopropy l Dimethy l ami ne (Lexami ne 5-13) 0.50 C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52) 0.50 Capry l i c/Capr i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 8.00 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l BS) 1 .oo Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10

C . L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa l S/SP 60%)

5.90 8 .33

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" . Begin h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. 2. Combine s e c t i o n "B". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n s t a n t s low

a g i t a t i o n . 3. When s e c t i o n s "A" and "B" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g -

na ted tempera tures , s l o w l y add "B" t o "A" . Mix w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 minu tes t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g .

4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5 . A t 40-5OC, add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB".

ch i s homogeneous and a t 35-40C a d j u s t f o r water 6. When t h e ba

7. M i x t o 30C. 8 . A d j u s t f i n a

L a c t a t e , as

l o s s .

SOURCE: I n o l e x

pH t o 3.50-3.75 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium r e q u i r e d .

Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-156-1

Lotions 257

Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be d ispensed f rom a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r f l e x i b l e b o t t l e . The a lpha hydroxy a c i d (AHA) c o n t a i n e d i n t h i s fo rmula i s b u f f e r e d l a c t i c a c i d w i t h a use l e v e l o f approx imate ly 10%. T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f Lexemul 561 and Lexamine S-13. The c a t i o n i c Lexamine S-13 enhances t h e s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n and may a c t as an a u x i l i a r y AHA b u f f e r . The p r o d u c t produces min imal w h i t e n i n g d u r i n g r u b - o u t .

A . De ion ized Water G1 y c e r i n USP (99.7%) H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e PP-4400-H)

6. Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP) L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%)

68.50 3 .00 1 - 0 0

0 . 2 0 0.20 0 .60

C. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 2 .00 Stearami dopropy l Dimethy l ami ne (Lexami ne S-13) 1 .oo C e t y l A l c o h o l (Ado1 52) 0 . 5 0 Capry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 7.00 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l BS) 2.00 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10

D. L a c t i c A c i d (88%) Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa l S/SP 60%)

5 .90 8 . 0 0

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n " A " . Begin h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. S i f t Hydrox-

y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e i n t o v o r t e x i n g w a t e r . 2 . When s e c t i o n "A" i s homogeneous, add s e c t i o n "6" t o s e c t i o n

"A" . Cont inue a g i t a t i o n . Cont inue h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. 3 . Combine s e c t i o n "C". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n s t a n t s low

a g i t a t i o n . 4. When s e c t i o n s "AB" & ' IC" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g -

na ted temperatures, s l o w l y add "C" t o "AB'q. M ix w i t h r a p i d a g i t a t i o n f o r 5 minutes t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g .

5 . Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 6 . A t 40-50C, add s e c t i o n "D" t o s e c t i o n s "ABC".

a d j u s t f o r 7. When t h e b a t c h i s homogeneous and a t 35-40C water l o s s .

8 . M ix t o 30C. 9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3.50-3.75 w i t h L a c t i c Ac

L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d . d o r Sodium

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : Formula 398-157-2

258 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Banana Hand Lotion

Water Carbomer 934

Avocado O i l Rosswax 573 Coconut O i l #76 Ross Jo joba O i l TEA Germaben I 1 Fragrance GK-17

GMS-SE

P a r t s by Wei q h t 568. Ogr

2 . 0 g r 4 . Ogr

16 .0gr 4 . Q g r

16 .0gr 4 .0gr 4 . Ogr 6 . 0 g r q . s .

Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e

Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Avocado O i l , Coconut O i l and Jo joba O i l t h a t have been heated t o 65C i n separa te k e t t l e . As soon as t h e O i l Phase has been mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben I 1 and t h e n t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t a t i o n , then t h e f ragrance. Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .

O/W Lotion

Phase 1 : Ross Wax 63-0412 Ross Wax 1641 Minera l Wax #9 Ross Wax 63-0212 Amerchol L-1 01 Ross Jo joba O i 1 GMS SE

Phase 2 : T r i e thano l ami ne Propy l ene G1 y c o l Water P r e s e r v a t i v e Germaben I 1

Novarome DE-47 Fragrance

Procedure: I n separa te k e t t l e s b r i n g Phase ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) t o 170F.

temperature i s reached add Phase (1 ) t o (2 ) w i t h a g i t a t Cool t o 120F and package.

SOURCE: Frank B . R o s s C o . , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

!% 1 . 6 1 . o 2.1 1 . o 5 . 2 2.1 2.1

1 . o 4.7

78.2 1 . o

q . s .

When on.

Lotions 259

Behenyl Hand Lotion

Crodac id 8, t h a t p r o v i d e g r e a t s t a b i l i t y ( 1 month a t 50C). Croda- mol PMP h e l p s t o f o r m u l a t e a n o n - o i l y l o t i o n w i t h smooth r u b i n .

T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s t h e comb ina t ion o f I nc romine BB and

I n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Inc romine BB (Behenami dopropy l D imethy l ami ne) Crodac id B (Behenic Ac id ) Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E the r P rop iona te ) Dimethicone P a r t B: De ion ized Water P a r t C: Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea Methy l Paraben (and) Propy l Paraben

- %

3.0 2.5

20.0 3 .0

70.5

and) 1 . o

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h mix ng and hea t t o 85-9OC.

Heat P a r t B t o 85-QOC. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o 45C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera- t u r e .

N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SC-215

Velvet 44-Behenyl Lotion

T h i s l o t i o n f e a t u r e s a un ique combina t ion o f e m u l s i f i e r s ( Inc romine BB and Crodac id 8) t h a t p r o v i d e g r e a t s t a b i l i t y ( 3 months 13 50C) and leave a s o f t v e l v e t y f e e l on t h e s k i n . Crodamol PMP h e l p s reduce t h e o i l i n e s s o f t h e m i n e r a l o i l and promotes a smooth r u b i n .

I n o r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : Incromi ne BB (Behenami dopropy l D imethy l ami ne) Crodac id B (Behenic Ac id ) M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) Crodamol PMP (PPG-2 M y r i s t y l E the r P rop iona te S i l i c o n e F l u i d (200 cps) DC 200 P a r t 8 : Dei o n i zed water P a r t C : Germaben I 1

%

3.00 2.50

15.00 10 .00

1 .oo 67.50

1 .oo

-

Procedure: Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 85-9OC.

Heat P a r t 0 t o 85-9OC. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and coo l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera- t u r e .

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t l ons

N.A.T.C. Approved Formula SC-213

260 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Body Lotion I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Pol y g l y c e r y l - 3 Methy l G1 ucose D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegoso f t CT) O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t O S ) Phase 8 : G l y c e r i n Water Phase C : M i n e r a l O i l Carbomer 941 Phase D : Sodium Hydrox ide (10% s o l u t i o n ) Phase E : Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase 8 t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r .

36w/w

2 .0 6 . 5 5 .7

3 .0 8 1 . 4

0 .8 0 . 2

0 . 4

Q . S . Q . S .

5 . D ispe rse Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/B. Homogenize. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add Phase D / E . S t i r . 8 . M i x u n t i 1 v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t ,

Emollient Lotion O/W Cold Process

I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A : PEG-25 G1 y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e (Tagat TO) 0 . 5

M i n e r a l O i l 4 . 0 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t P) 3 .0

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e ( I s o l a n G I 34) 1 . 5

C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegoso f t CT) 2 . 0 Dimeth icone ( A b i l 350) 0 . 2 Phase B : Water 8 3 . 6 G1 y c e r i n 3 . 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e Q . S . Phase C : Carbomer 934 0 .3 M i n e r a l O i l 1 . 2 Phase D : NaOH (10% S o l u t i o n ) 0 . 7 Procedure: 1 . Homogenize A + B, o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e t l . 0 urn. 2 . Add C and D, s t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 30 m inu tes . Temperature

o f t h e phases A , B, C, D : a r e 2 0 - 2 5 C

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Co. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Lotions 261

Body Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : Isohexadecane M i n e r a l o i l I s o s t e a r i c a c i d Ar lamol E Cyc lometh icone

Xanthan gum

Water Sorbo, s o r b i t o 1 s o l u t i on A r l a t o n e 2121

*Preserva t i ve

*Perfume

*q . s a t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w 9 . 0 0 5 .OO 3 .00 2.00 1 . o o

0 .10

73.90 2 .00 4 . 0 0

Procedure:

( C ) a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add (A) w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r - r i n g or homogenizat ion. Add (D) and ( E ) upon c o o l i n g .

Heat ( C ) t o 8OC w i t h occas iona l v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add ( B ) t o

Moisturizing Hand Lotion

I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

CR-15 a l c o h o l s benzoate Jo joba o i 1

B Xanthan gum

C Water Propy lene g l y c o l A r l a t o n e 2121

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e

E *Perfume

* q . s these i n g r e d i e n t s .

8 . 0 0 7.00 5 .00

0 . 1 0

70.90 4.00 5.00

Procedure:

(C) a t 75C w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add (A) w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r - r i n g o r homogenizat ion. Add ( D ) and ( E ) upon c o o l i n g .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat ( C ) t o 8OC w i t h occas iona l v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Add ( B ) t o

262 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Concentrated Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a p o u r a b l e l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be d ispensed f rom a g l a s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a b u f f e r e d a lpha hydroxy a c i d (AHA), L a c t i c A c i d , a t a use l e v e l o f approx imate ly 15%. The fo rmula u t i l i z e s a c a t i o n i c and n o n i o n i c e m u l s i f i c a t i o n system c o n s i s t i n g o f Lexquat AMG-IS and Lexemul 561. I n a d d i t i o n t o f u n c t i o n i n g as t h e p r i m a r y e m u l s i f i e r , Lexquat AMG-IS, a l s o enhances s k i n s u b s t a n t i v i t y . T h i s form- u l a t i o n o f f e r s a h i g h l e v e l o f a c t i v i t y i n a b u f f e r e d form.

A .

B . C.

D .

E .

w Dei o n i zed Water 52 I 30 Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0 .20 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP) 0 .20 Propylene G l y c o l USP 2.70 L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) 0.50 H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e QP-15,OOOH) 0.50 Isos tearami dopropy l PG-Di moni um C h l o r i d e (Lexquat AMG-IS) 10.10

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 1.75 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul

561 ) 3.40 Propylene G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (Lexo l PG-865) 2.50 C e t y l A lcoho l (Ado1 52) 0 .80 Jo joba O i l (Golden Jo joba O i l ) 2 .50 M y r i s t y 1 M y r i s t a t e (Ceraphyl 424) 0 .85 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0.10 L a c t i c A c i d USP (88%) 7.25 Sodium L a c t a t e (Purasa l S/SP 60%) 14.35

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. Use p r o p e l l e r mixer

f o r a g i t a t i o n . 2. S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n ' t B v t i n t o s e c t i o n ' lA". I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed

t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h e n s low t o h i g h e s t speed which does n o t produce a v o r t e x .

3 . When s e c t i o n s "A" and rtB1' a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g - na ted tempera tures add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB".

4. Combine s e c t i o n I'D". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s low m i x i n g .

5. When s e c t i o n s "A8C" and s e c t i o n "DI' a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g i n a t e d temperatures, s l o w l y pour s e c t i o n "D" i n t o S e c t i o n s lfABCtl. I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. M a i n t a i n a t 80-85C f o r 5 minu tes , t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i ng.

m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 6 . Add s e c t i o n "E" t o s e c t i o n s "ABCD" a t 60-65C. Cont inue

7 . A t 40-45C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 8. M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t reaches room tempera ture . 9 . A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 3.60-3.80 w i t h L a c t i c A c i d o r Sodium

L a c t a t e , as r e q u i r e d . Phys ica l P r o p e r t i e s :

V i s c o s i t y : 2400 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) pH: 3.7 @ 24C

SOURCE: Inolex Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n 398-99-2

Lotions 263

Deep Skin Cleansing Lotion

M a t e r i a l s : % bv Weight 1 . M i n e r a l O i l SUS 65/75 5 0 . 0 2. Amerchol L-101 3 .0 3 . Cerasynt PA 3 .0 4. Tween 20 3 .0 5. S t e a r i c A c i d T .P . 1 . o 6 . Propy lparaben 0 . 1 7. Methy lparaben 0 .2 8 . Water ( d e i o n i z e d ) 38.6 9 . Borax U . S . P . 0 . 5 10.Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 3 11.Perfume 0.3 M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1. P a r t 1 - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , add i tems 1 t h r o u g h 7

and heat t o 75C. M a i n t a i n t h i s tempera ture and s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l e v e r y t h i n g i s i n s o l u t i o n . B r i n g tempera ture t o 60C.

2. P a r t 2 - I n a separa te s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l , add i t e m 8 and h e a t t o 60C. Add and d i s s o l v e i t e m 9. Add i t e m 10 and mix a t medium speed (1200 rpm) f o r about 20 minutes, o r u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d ispersed, w h i l e m a i n t a i n i n g tempera ture a t 60C.

3 . P a r t 3-Add P a r t 2 t o P a r t 1 s l o w l y and mix t o g e t h e r . 4 . Cool l o t i o n t o 50C and add i t e m 11. S t i r s l o w l y t o room

Formula TS-105 tempera ture .

Hand Lotion

Mater i a1 s : ?6 bv Wei qht 1 . Water 87.59 2. T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 .42 3 . Propy lene G l y c o l 4.00 4. Methy lparaben 0.10 5 . Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0.80 6. Ceraphyl 424 3.00 7. S t e a r i c A c i d T .P . 0 .79 8 . P l u r o n i c F-127 1 .oo 9. G l y c e r y l Monostearate 2 .00 10.Propylparaben 0.10 11.Perfume 0 . 2 0 M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t 1 - I n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i tems 1

t h r o u g h 4 and heat t o 60C. Us ing a homomixer a t about 1400 r p m , add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lumps, and mix f o r 20 minu tes o r u n t i l homogeneous. If foam develops, add a minu te amount o f Ant i foam 60. Heat P a r t 1 t o 78C.

2 . P a r t 2 - I n a separa te v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t h r o u g h 10 and heat t o 78C. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and homogeneous.

3 . M i x P a r t 2 s l o w l y i n P a r t 1 a t 78C u s i n g sweep b lades . 4. Cool t o 50C. Add i t e m 10, mix and c o o l t o room tempera ture . Formula TS-200 SOURCE: Rheox, Inc.: Suggested Formula t ions

264 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Deep Moisturizing Lotion

T h i s a f t e r - b a t h l o t i o n g i v e s t h e b e n e f i t s o f p o t e n t s k i n c o n d i t i o n e r s whi l e e l i m i n a t i n g t h e t a c k i n e s s assoc ia ted w i t h l a n o l i n and p e t r o l a t u m t h r o u g h t h e u n i q u e emo l l i ency p r o v i d e d by Phosphol i p i d EFA.

P a r t A : Phospho l i p id €FA Steare th-21 Water

P a r t B: Steare th -2 Anhydrous L a n o l i n Pe t ro la tum O c t y l d o d e c y l M y r i s t a t e C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l D i meth i cone ( 1 OOcS)

% BY Weiqht 4 .00 0 .40

82.00

1 . 60 1 . 5 0 3 . 0 0 2 .00 4.00 1 . 5 0

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and heat t o 65C. Homogenize (B) i n t o (A) w i t h con t inued h e a t i n g u n t i l s u f f i c i e n t l y mixed. S t i r - c o o l t o 45-50C, t h e n add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed b e f o r e f i l l i n g .

Hand and Body Lotion

A s u p e r i o r p r o d u c t des igned f o r a f t e r - b a t h use on t r a d i t i o n - a l l y d r y a reas such as hands, elbows and h e e l s . Phospho l i p id €FA i s s t r o n g l y s u b s t a n t i v e towards s k i n p r o v i d i n g non-greasy m o i s t u r i z i n g and a p l e a s a n t a f t e r f e e l .

P a r t A: Phosphol i p i d EFA Water

P a r t 0 : Steare th -2 L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l O c t y l d o d e c y l M y r i s t a t e Dimethicone (1OOcS)

% by Weiqht 4 .00

83 I 00

2 .00 4 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 2 . 5 0 1 . 5 0

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n b o t h phases s e p a r a t e l y and heat t o 6 5 C . Homogenize ( 6 ) i n t o ( A ) w i t h con t inued h e a t i n g u n t i l s u f f i c i e n t l y mixed. S t i r - c o o l t o 45C. Add f r a g r a n c e , c o l o r , and p r e s e r v a t i v e as needed and f i l l .

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : PHOSPHOLIPID EFA: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Lotions 265

Emollient LotionI l l u s t r a t e s t h e use o f Veegum Pro magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e

as an emuls ion s t a b i l i z e r and t h i c k e n e r . The f o r m u l a i s des igned t o serve as a g u i d e f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i ng ones. A Veegum Pro 1.5%

Water 83.8 B T r i e thano l ami ne 0 . 1

G l y c e r i n 3 .5 C Marcol 130 3 . 6

P e t r o l a t u m 0 . 4 S t e a r i c a c i d XXX 1 . 6 C e t y l a l c o h o l 1 . 5 Kessco G l y c e r o l Monostearate SE 1 . 4 A c e t u l a n 2 . 0 Dow C o r n i n g 200 F l u i d 0.6 P r e s e r v a t i ve q . s .

Heat t h e water t o 70 t o 75C, then s l o w l y add t h e Veegum PRO Procedure:

w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. M a i n t a i n A/B a t 70 t o 75C, h e a t C t o 75 t o 00C. Add C t o A/0 and mix u n t i l c o o l . Cons is tency : Medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n . Suggested Packaging: Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e . Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s

t h e l o t i o n , even a t e l e v a t e d tempera tures . T h i s l o t i o n i s absorbed r a p i d l y , l e a v i n g t h e s k i n smooth and grease less .

Hand and Body Lotion I l l u s t r a t e s t h e use o f Veegum PRO magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e

as an emuls ion s t a b i l i z e r and t h i c k e n e r . The f o r m u l a i s des igned t o serve as a gu ide f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones. A Veegum Pro 2.00%

Water 70.75 G l y c e r i n 6.00

B Marcal 130 10.00 P e t r o l a t u m 4.00 A r l a c e l 165 5 .OO Synchrowax A w l - C 1 .25

C A l l a n t o i n 1 .oo P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .

Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 70 t o 75C, t h e n s l o w l y add t h e Veegum PRO

w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add g l y c e r i n e and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat 6 t o 75 t o 80C. Add B t o A and mix u n t i l c o o l . Add C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cons is tency : Medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n . Suggested Packaging: Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e . Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l i z e s t h e emuls ion even a t e l e v a t e d tempera tures . G l y c e r i n h e l p s t o r a p i d l y h y d r a t e d r y s k i n and t h e s e l e c t i o n o f o i l s and waxes produces a smooth and non-greasy f e e l . The a l l a n t o i n p r o v i d e s s o o t h i n g r e l i e f f o r wounds, burns , and s k i n problems i n g e n e r a l . SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c , : Formula Nos. 417 & No. 420

266 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

European O/W Cleansing Lotion

I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

Ar lamol E

B A r l a t o n e 2121 Propylene g l y c o l G l y c e r o l Water

C Carbomer 934 (3% s o l u t i o n )

D Sodium Hydrox ide (10% s o l u t i o n ) t o pH o f 6 .5 -7 .0

E *Perfume

*q. s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .

%J& 15.00 3 .00

2.00 1 .25 1 .25

72.50

5.00

Procedure: D isperse (C) i n ( 6 ) a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . Heat (A)

and add a t 75 w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Homogenize d u r i n g a d d i t i o n o f (A) . S t i r v i g o r o u s l y u n t i l c o o l . Add ( 0 ) around 50C. Add (E) a t below 35C.

Water/Oil Cleansing Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

Beeswax Ceres in wax Sorbo A r l a c e l 186 Tween 80

B Water, d e i on i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e

*q. s t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s

15.00 0.50 0.50

27.00 3 .00 0 . 5 0

53.50

Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o evap- o r a t i on.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add ( 8 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h

Lotions 267

Gentle Moisturizing Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a t h i x o t r o p i c l o t i o n which can be d ispensed f rom a f l e x i b l e t u b e or s o f t p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The p r o d u c t u t i l i z e s a b l e n d o f t w o a lpha hydroxy a c i d s (AHA'S), and b u f f e r e d c i t r i c a c i d a t a combined use l e v e l o f approx- i m a t e l y 2.5%. T h i s p roduc t c o u l d be used as a d a i l y use moi s t u r i z i n g AHA p r o d u c t . w A . De ion ized Water 76.70

Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.20 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP) 0.20 Hexyl ene G1 y c o l 1 .oo

B . Hydroxyethy l c e l l u l ose ( C e l l o s i ze QP-15,OOOH) 1 .oo C . I sos tearamidopropy l PG-Dimonium C h l o r i d e

(Lexquat AMG-IS) 2.00 D. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 3.00

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 4.00 Propylene G l y c o l D i p e l a rgonate 2.10 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (and) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (and)

I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l 3975) 1 .oo Sesame O i l 2.00 Tocopherol (Copherol 1300) 0 .10 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10

E. De ion ized Water 4.00 Mal i c A c i d (Granu lar ) 1 .oo Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC 1.60

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 70-75C. Use a p r o p e l l e r mixer

for a g i t a t i o n . 2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n ftB19 i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed

t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h e n s low t o h i g h e s t speed which does n o t produce a v o r t e x .

3 . When s e c t i o n s '!A" & 'lBll a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g - na ted tempera tures add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB".

4. Combine s e c t i o n " D " . Heat t o 75-80C w i t h cont inuous s low m i x i ng.

5 . When s e c t i o n s "ABC" and s e c t i o n 'ID" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e des ignated temperatures, s l o w l y pour s e c t i o n "D" i n t o s e c t i o n s "ABC'I. I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. Main- t a i n a t 80-85C for 5 minu tes , t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i n g .

6 . Combine s e c t i o n "E" and mix u n t i l i t becomes a c l e a r s o l u t i o n . 7 . Add s e c t i o n "E" t o s e c t i o n s "ABCD" a t 60-65C. Cont inue m i x i n g

and c o o l i n g . 8 . A t 40-45C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 9 . M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t reaches 30-35C. 10. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 4.00-4.10 w i t h a M a l i c A c i d s o l u t i o n , as

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i 8s: r e q u i r e d I

V i s c o s i t y : 4,500 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) 24 hour sample.

pn: 4.1 @ 24c

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n 398-87-3

268 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e

O l e i c a c i d S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed Atmul 84s Sorbo T r i e thano l ami ne Water, d e i o n i z e d and . l % p r e s e r v a t i v e

B A l c o h o l , SDA 40 Fragrance

%w/w 2 .00 2 . 0 0 2 .00 3 .20 2 .00 1 . o o

83.30 4 .00 0 .50

Procedure:

coo led t o 45C. D i s s o l v e f r a g r a n c e i n t h e a l c o h o l . Add ( B ) t o ( A ) . S t i r t o i n s u r e thorough a g i t a t i o n .

Heat (A) t o 95C. A g i t a t e u n t i l a m i l k y emuls ion forms and i s

Hand Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A L i g h t m i n e r a l o i l

S t e a r i c a c i d A c e t y l a t e d 1 anol i n A r l a c e l 165 C e t y l a l c o h o l S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 200 c s

Sorbo, So rb i t o 1 so l u t i on, USP Methy l paraben Propy l paraben

B Water

4.00 2 .00 3 .00 5.00 1 - 0 0 1 . o o

78.80 5.00 0 . 1 8 0 . 0 2

Procedure:

t i o n . Cool t o s e t p o i n t and homogenize. Formula SK-9

Heat (A) t o 70C and (6) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) w i t h a g i t a -

Hand Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

B r i j 52 B r i j 58 T r i e thano l ami ne

Water, de i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

B Carboxy v i n y l polymer, Carbopol 934

3 0 . 0 0 5 .20 4.80 0 . 2 0 0 .20

59.60

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t . SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) r a p i d

Lotions 269

Hand Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

A r l a s o l v e 200L B r i j 72 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

E Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Perfume

*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%J&v 8 . 0 0 1 . 7 0 2 . 8 0 2 . 0 0

8 5 . 1 0 0 . 2 0

0 .20

Procedure:

72C and add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add ( D ) and rep1 ace water 1 o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula AE-9

D ispe rse Carbomer i n water and hea t (B) t o 70C. Heat (A) t o

Hand Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : w A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 5 . 0 0

B r i j 7215 1 . 5 0

B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbopol 934

9 2 . 8 0 0 .20

C Sodium Hydrox ide (10% W / W aqueous) 0 .20

D D o w i c i l 200 0 .10

E Fragrance 0 .20

Procedure:

p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) when t h e tempera tu re drops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g

270 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g .m.s .

C e t y l a l c o h o l

B Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n U . S . P . Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e

C * M i l d a c i d t o a d j u s t pH *q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .

%w/w 5 . 0 0 5 .00

5 . 0 0 8 5 . 0 0

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room tempera ture w i t h s t i r r i n g . Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (B ) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) w i t h r a p i d

Protective Hand Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 50 cs

B r i j 52 B r i j 56 T r i e thano l ami ne

B Carboxy v i n y l polymer, Carbopol 934 Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t . Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (5) t o 72C. Add (6 ) t o ( A ) r a p i d

Protective Hand Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A S i l i c o n e f l u i d , 50 cs

B r i j 52 B r i j 58 T r ie thano lamine

B Carboxy v i n y l polymer, Carbopol 934 Water, de i on i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s ,

Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) r a p i d Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

o/ow/w 1 0 . 0 0 2 .60 4 .90 0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0 8 2 . 1 0

%w/w 10.00 4 .00 3 .60 0.20

0 . 2 0 8 2 . 0 0

Lotions 271

Hand Lotion M a t e r i a1 s : % b y Wei n h t P a r t A : 1 . De ion ized Water 85.89 2 . T r i e thano l ami ne 0 .42 3 . G l y c e r i n e 4.00

5. Eentone EW r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 1 . 5 0 P a r t E : 6 . Ceraphyl 424 3.00 7 . S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 0 . 7 9 8 . I sop ropano l L a n o l a t e D i s t i l l e d 1 . o o 9 . P l u r o n i c F-127 1 .oo 1 0 . G l y c e r y l Monostearate 2.00 11 .P ropy l Paraben 0 .10

12.Fragrance 0 .20

4. Methy l Paraben 0 .10

P a r t C :

Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t A - In a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i t e m 1

t o 4 and hea t t o 60C. Us ing a homomixer, add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lumps and mix f o r 20 m inu tes o r u n t i l homogeneous. Heat t o 80C.

80C. M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y m e l t e d and homogeneous. 2. P a r t B - I n a sepera te v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t o 11 and hea t to

3. M i x P a r t B s l o w l y i n P a r t A a t 80C u s i n g sweep b l a d e s . 4 . Cool t o 50C. Add P a r t C , m ix and c o o l t o room tempera tu re . 5 . V i s c o s i t y o f l o t i o n a f t e r 24 hours shou ld be 9100 cps. Formula TS-246

Soft Hand Lotion M a t e r i a1 s : % b y Weiaht 1 . De ion ized Water 84 .1 2. Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 5 3. G l y c e r i n e 2 . 5 4 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 .7 5 . Methy l Paraben 0 . 1 6 . Ceraphyl 424 1 . 5 7. I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 1 . o 8 . A c e t o l 1 .7 9 . S t e a r i c A c i d 4 . 0 10 . Lexemul 55G 3 . 4 11 . V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7158 0 . 2 12 .P ropy l Paraben 0 . 1 13.Fragrance 0 . 2 M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Us ing v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , add t h e Eentone LT t o t h e w a t e r .

M i x f o r 20 m inu tes . 2 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s 3 th rough 5 t o S tep 1, hea t t o 80C. 3 . I n a separa te v e s s e l , combine i n g r e d i e n t s 6,7,8,9,10 and 12

4. Add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase. 5 . Cool t o 50C, t h e n add i n g r e d i e n t s 11 and 13 . 6 . Cool t o 35C and package. Formula TS-287 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c , : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat t o 80C.

272 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand and Body Lotion

P a r t 1 : Water Carbomer 934 P a r t 2 : Modul an I PP Amerchol L-101 GMS SE Rosswax 63-041 2 I PM Jo joba O i l P a r t 3 : Germaben I I E P a r t 4: Fragrance P a r t 5 : T r i e thano lamine

% 78.6

0 . 2

1 . 6 3 . 8 0 .8 2 . 1 4 . 0 4 . 0 1 . 6

1 . o

q . s

2.3

Procedure: P a r t A :

s t e e l k e t t l e . P a r t B:

I n a separa te heated k e t t l e , heat t h e o i l phase u n t i l a l l i n g r e d i e n t s a r e me l ted . When e v e r y t h i n g i s me l ted add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase. When e v e r y t h i n g i s b lended add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , t h e f r a g r a n c e and t h e T r ie thano lamine w i t h i nc reased a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o room tempera ture and package.

D ispe rse t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e water phase i n a s t a i n l e s s

Jojoba Lotion

P a r t A : Modul an Amerchol L-101 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e G l y c e r y l Mono S t e a r a t e Pure Rosswax 63-0412 I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e Ross Jo joba O i 1 P a r t 0: Water G l y c e r i n e Pure Emery 916 T r i e thano l ami ne

% 1 .s 0 . 8 5 . 0 2 . 1 4.0 4 . 0 1 . 6

74.4 4 . 2 2 . 3

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . When tempera ture i s reached mix P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t ( B ) , and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r a t below 120F.

SOURCE: Frank B . R o s s C o . , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t (B) i n separa te vesse ls t o 170F under

Lotions 273

High Petrolatum Lotion

High petrolatum for severely dry, chapped or chafed skin.

O i l Phase: White P ro tope t I S Crodamol PMP Voloo 3

Water Phase A : Dei on i zed Water Carbopol 941 10% Sodi um Hydroxi de Sol u t i on

Water Phase B : G l y c e r i n Volpo s-10 Germaben I 1

%w/w 30.00 1 0 . 0 0

2 . 3 0

4 6 . 3 5 0.13 0 . 5 2

5 . 0 0 5 . 7 0

qs

Procedure: Water Phase A :

h e a t i n g t o 80C. When comp le te l y d i spe rsed , add t h e sodium hyd rox ide s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Water Phase B :

When u n i f o r m , add t o water phase A . O i l Phase:

Combine a l l components o f t h e o i l phase, mix and hea t t o 8 0 C . When un i fo rm, add t h e combined water phases s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . Cont inue m i x i n g t o room tempera ture .

Charge a vesse l w i t h water and dus t i n t h e carbomer. S t a r t

Combine components i n a separa te vesse l and m ix , heat t o 8 0 C .

Low Irritation Moisturizing Lotion

D i sodi urn 1 a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i na te G l y c e r i n Methylparaben Ce ty l a l c o h o l Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 Methy l phenyl p o l y s i loxane Beeswax Water

0.30% 5 . 0 0 0 . 2 0 2 . 0 0

2 0 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 2 0

q . s . t o 1 0 0 . 0 0

SOURCE: W i t co Corp . : Petroleum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

274 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

I nar ed i e n t s : L i g h t m i n e r a l o i l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721, S teare th-21 B r i j 72, S teare th-2

Hydroalcoholic Mineral Oil Emulsion

w 8.00 1 .oo

Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbomer 934

Sodium Hydrox ide S o l u t i o n (10%)

* P r e s e r v a t i v e

Fragrance

Ethanol , SDA-40, ( 190 Proof)

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat ( A ) t o 70C and (6) t o 75C w i t h good p

Add (C) below 50C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add t h e below 35C. Replace water l o s t due t o evapora t

Mineral Oil Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

A r l a c e l 165, a c i d s t a b l e g.m.s.

B Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e

C * M i l d a c i d t o a d j u s t pH

*q. s, t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

2.28 1 . 7 2

66.00 0 .40

0 .40

0 .00

0.20

20.00

o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n remai n i ng phases on. Package.

w 10.00 10.00

80.00

Procedure:

thorough b u t g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o 25C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat ( A ) t o 6OC. Heat (B) t o 62C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h

Lotions 275

Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion

I n n r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e p ressed

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l C e t y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .

B Water, d e i o n i zed EDTA Phenacet i n

C Hydrogen pe rox ide , 27% d i

D *Phosphor ic a c i d , 10% C . P

*q . s . these i ngred i e n t s .

Procedure:

u t i o n grade

1 0 . 0 0 0 .50 1 .oo 5 .00 0 .50

51 .06 0 .20 0 .04

22.20

9 .50

Heat ( A ) t o 60C and (6) t o 65C. Add (B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) below 35C. Replace water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 .5 -4 .0 w i t h d i l u t e phosphor ic a c i d (10% C.P. ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e evo l u t i on o f oxygen. Formula HC-14

Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 52 B r i j 58

B Water, d e i o n i z e d

C Hydrogen pe rox ide , 35% d

D Phosphor ic a c i d (1O%C>P>

l u t i o n grade

as r e q u i r e d

4 .00 1 .50 3.50

73.06

17.14

Procedure:

thorough a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 45C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Compensate f o r l o s t water due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Add ( C ) . A d j u s t pH t o 3.5-4.0 by add ing (0).

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h

276 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Isopropyl Myristate Lotion

I n n r e d i e n t s : I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e A r l a c e l 60 A r l a s o l v e 200L

Water, d e i o n i z e d Carbopol 934

Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)

D o w i c i l 200

Fragrance

*q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i ents .

%B 10.00

1 . 6 0 3 .33

84 .07 0.40

0.40

0 . 1 0

0 .10

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 60C. Add (A) t o ( B ) s l o w l y w i t h

moderate anchor t y p e a g i t a t i o n and add (C) . Add ( D ) a t about 50C. Add ( E ) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula PC 8186

Vanishing Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol I S M L

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l S i l i c o n e o i l (350 cs) Ar lamol E B r i j 700 B r i j 72

B Water, d e i o n i zed Veegum (5% aqueous s o l u t i o n ) Carbopol 934

w 4.00 1 .oo 0.50 1 .oo 2.00 2.00

79.05 10.00

0 .15

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aqueous) 0 .15

D Germal l I 1 0 .10

E Herbal Fragrance SL 79-1224, PFW 0.05

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) below 50C. Add (E) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions

Heat (A) t o 70C and (8) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h moderate

Lotions 277

Lanolin & Aloe Lotion

L o t i o n s have a wide range o f a p p l i c a t i o n s i n t o d a y ' s cosmet ic market . I d e a l l y t h e y shou ld l e a v e a smooth l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l t o t h e s k i n and h e l p a l l e v i a t e such problems as d r y s k i n o r chapping f r o m wind and sunburn. SC-188 i s an economical l o t i o n which achieves b o t h ends. Crodamol PTC, a n o n - o i l y e s t e r which g i v e s a "cushiony" f e e l a t low l e v e l s o f a d d i t i o n , a l s o works w i t h t h e l a n o l i n and l a n o l i n d e r i v e d p r o d u c t s t o l e a v e a s a t i n y , non-greasy, p r o t e c t i v e f i l m on t h e s k i n .

I n q r e d i e n t s : E! P a r t A : Super R e f i n e d Babassu O i l (Babassu O i l ) 2.00 Corona Pure New L a n o l i n ( L a n o l i n ) 2 .00 Crodacol CS-50 ( C e t e a r y l A lcoho l ) 1.50 Super S t e r o l E s t e r (C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n o s t e r o l E s t e r s ) 1 .00 Crodamol PTC ( P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a c a p r y l a t e / C a p r a t e ) 0 .80 Crodacol C-95 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 0 .50 Crodarnol MM ( M y r i s t y l M y r i s t a t e ) 0.50 I n c r o p o l CS-20 (Ceteareth-20) 1 .oo M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 4.00 S t e a r i c A c i d XXX 0.50 S i l i c o n e L-45 (1OOcps) 0.30 Propy l Paraben 0 .15

P a r t B : Deion ized Water G l y c e r i n Veragel 200 Powder Methy l Paraben Carbopol 941 D o w i c i l 200 PEG-1 5 Cocami ne

81 - 5 5 3.00 0.50 0 .30 0 .10 0.10 0 .20

Procedure:

When c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , add t h e r e m a i n i n g i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B and heat t o 75-8OC. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 75-80C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h good m i x i n g and c o o l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture . A d j u s t pH w i t h 1 .0% NaOH.

Dust t h e Carbopol 941 o f P a r t B i n t o t h e water w i t h m i x i n g .

pH: 6 .0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 7,500+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e #5, 20 rpm @ 25C) N . A . T . C . Approved

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n SC-188-2

278 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Lotion

I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 7215 S i l i c o n e o i l , 350 c s .

B Water, de i on i zed C Hydrogen pe rox ide , 27% d i l u t i o n grade

w 8 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 0 .50

65.30 22.20

Procedure:

moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) below 35C. Replace water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n and a d j u s t pH t o 3 . 5 - 4 . 0 w i t h d i l u t e phosphor ic a c i d (10% C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i net- f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen. Formula PC-8202

Heat (A) t o 60C and (B) t o 65C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 7215 Si1;cone o i l , 350 c s .

Sorbo B Water, d e i o n i zed

C Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 27% d i l u t i o n grade

w 3 . 0 0 3 .00 0 .50

66.30 5 . 0 0

22.20

Procedure:

moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) below 35C. Replace water l o s t by evapora t i on and a d j u s t pH t o 3.5-4.0 w i t h d i l u t e phosphor ic a c i d (10% C . P . ) . Package i n s u i t a b l e c o n t a i n e r f o r p o s s i b l e e v o l u t i o n o f oxygen. Formula PC-8203

Heat (A) t o 60C and (B) t o 65C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Glossy Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i 1 , C a r n a t i o n

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721s B r i j 72

B Water, d e i on i zed C D o w i c i l 200 D Fragrance

w 8 .00 1 - 0 0 2 .00 2.00

86.80 0 .10 0 .10

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C w i t h good p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n

Add (C) a t 50C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) a t 35C. Add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Lotions 279

Low Solids Almond Lotion II

Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Almond O i 1 - L i pova l A1M Coconut O i l #76 Jo joba O i l TEA P r e s e r v a t i v e Germaben I 1 Fragrance GG44

P a r t s by Wei q h t 568. Ogr .

2 . 0 g r . 4 . 0 g r . 4 . 0 g r .

1 6 . 0 g r . 16 .0gr . 4 . 0 g r . 4 . 0 g r . 6 . 0 g r . q . s .

Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e

Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Almond O i l , Coconut O i l , and Jo joba O i l t h a t have been heated t o 65C i n a separa te k e t t l e . As soon as t h e y have been mixed w e l l add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , t h e f r a g r a n c e and t h e n t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t h e b a t c h t o 55C, and package.

Peach Hand Lotion

Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573

Almond O i 1 L i p o v a l ALM Coconut O i l #76 Ross Jo joba O i l TEA Germaben I 1 Fragrance GK-16

GMS-SE

P a r t s by Wei n h t 568. Ogr 2. Ogr 4 .0gr 4 . Ogr

16 .0gr

16.0gr 4. Ogr 4 , Ogr 6 .0gr q . s .

Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e

Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Almond O i l , Coconut O i l , and J o j o b a O i l t h a t have been heated t o 65C i n a separa te k e t t l e . As soon as t h e O i l Phase has been mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben 11, t h e Fragrance, and then t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .

SOURCE: Frank B. Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

280 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Milk Lotion

Liquid Petrolatum Amiter LG-OD Propylene Glycol Monostearate POE (5) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Emalex HC-5)* POE (5) Glyceryl Monostearate (Emalex GM-5) * Butyl Paraben Amihope LL

Acylglutamate HS-11 1,3-Butylene Glycol Methyl Paraben

Carboxyvi nyl Polymer Water

Sodi um Hydroxi de (NaOH) *Nihon Emulsion Co.

Procedure: 1 . Dissolve (A) at 80C. 2 . Dissolve (C), and then neutralize with (0).

and dissolve at 80C. to (A) as mixing, and then cool to 30C

3 . Add 4 . Add

Note:

(B) to # 2 #3 slowly

his milk otion has light touch, and spreads well.

Milk Lotion

Mineral Oil Amiter LGOD Propylene G1 ycol Stearate PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PEG-5 G1 yceryl Stearate Butyl Paraben Amihope LL

Acyl glutamate HS-11 Carbomer 9 4 1 Sodi urn Hydroxi de Butylene Glycol Methyl Paraben Water Milk lotion with smooth touch and good spreadability

4 . 7 2.2 0 . 4 1.3 2.8 0 . 1 3.0

0.3 5 . 0 0 . 2

0.2 79.72

0.08

5.00 2 . 0 0 0.50 1.50 2.50 0 . 1 0 3.00

0.30 0.20 0.08 5.00 0.20

7 9 . 6 2

Procedure: Dissolve Carbomer 941 and sodium hydroxide in water first.

Add other ingredients o f ( B ) to the solution and dissolve at 75-80 degrees C. Dissolve ( A ) ingredients at 80 degrees C and add (A) to ( B ) with agitation. Cool down to room temperature with agitation. SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, Inc.: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Lotions 281

Milk Lotion

(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) P a r a f f i n Wax (mp 54-56C) C e t y l A l coho l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Squal ane N i k k o l WCB L a n o l i n Po lyoxye thy lene (10 ) L a n o l i n A l coho l Po lye thy lene G l y c o l (6300) Monostearate Po lyoxye thy lene ( 5 ) S t e a r y l E the r Po lyoxye thy lene (25) C e t y l E the r

(W) A j i dew N-50 Po lye thy lene G l y c o l - 1500 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 5 . 3 V i s c o s i t y : 20,000 cps

Milk Lotion

(0) L i q u i d P a r a f f i n (#70) Beeswax S t e a r y l A l coho l I s o p a l m i t y l A l coho l Po lyoxye thy lene (10 ) G l y c e r y l T r i i s o s t e a r a t e Po lyoxye thy l ene (1 5 ) C e t y l E the r

( W ) Aj idew N-50 Water P r e s e r v a t i v e

Procedure: 1 . Heat (0) and ( W ) t o 80C. 2 . Add (W) t o (0) s l o w l y . 3 . Cool t o 40C w i t h s t i r r i n g .

pH: 5 .2 V i scos i t y : 1,700 cps

SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

g 10 .0

5 . 0 3.0 2 .0 0 . 5 4 . 0 0 . 5 1 . o 0 . 5 2 .1 2 . 9

3 . 0 3 . 0

62 .5 q . s

g 10.45

1 . o 1 . 5 1 . 2 2 .35 0 . 8

3 . 0 79 .7

Q . S .

282 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mineral Oil Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l , C a r n a t i o n b rand

B r i j 72 A r l a s o l v e 200L

B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbopol 934

20 .00 2 .70 4.60

71 .80 0.40

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous) 0 . 4 0

D D o w i c i l 200 1 .oo

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Add C . Add ( D ) below 50C. Add (E) a t 35C and add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Formula PC-8184

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h moderate

Mineral Oil Lotion-O/W

I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

B r i j 52 (Ceteth-2) A r l a s o l v e 200 L i q u i d ( I s o c e t e t h - 2 0 )

B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934 A r l aso l ve D M I

C Sodium hydrox ide-10% aqueous s o l u t i o n

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

o/ow/w 30.00

5 .20 6 .60

5 2 . 8 0 0 .20 5 .00

0 .20

Procedure: D ispe rse Carbomer i n t h e wa te r and A r l a s o l v e D M I w i t h r a p i d

a g i t a t i o n . Heat (B) t o 65 deg. C and (A) t o 60 deg. C . Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) . Add ( D ) below 50 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C and r e p l a c e evaporated wa te r .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions 283

Mineral Oil Free Lotion Contains Ethanol (20%)

I n s r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

B r i j 721s B r i j 72 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

B Water, d e i on i zed Carbopol 934

w 20 .00

2 . 0 0 4.00 4 .00

48.80 0 .40

C Sodium hyd rox ide (10% aqueous) 0.40

D Germal l I 1 0 . 2 0

E Fragrance, H 45756 ( P . R o b e r t e t ) 0 . 2 0

F Ethano l , SDA-40 (190 p r o o f ) 2 0 . 0 0

Procedure:

b l a d e t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) . Add (D) when t h e tempera ture drops below 50C. Add (E) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y u s i n g

Lotion

I n s r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 7215

B Water, d e i o n i z e d Sorbo, So rb i t o 1 S o l u t i o n USP Carbopol 934

w 1 - 0 0 1 - 0 0

95 .30 2 . 0 0 0 . 2 0

C Sodium hyd rox ide (10% W / W aqueous) 0 . 2 0

D D o w i c i l 200 0 .10

E Fragrance 0 . 2 0

Procedure:

p r o p e l l e r t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) . Add (D) when t h e tempera tu re drops below 50C. Add ( E ) below 40C. Add water t o compensate f o r e v a p o r a t i o n . Homogenize. A d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 -6 .5

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Sugeested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 75C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y u s i n g

284 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Moisturizing Lotion

Phase A : P r o t o p e t I S PPG-15 S t e a r y l E t h e r (A r lamo l E ) S t e a r y l A l coho l S tea re th -2 ( B r i j 72) S tea re th -20 ( B r i j 78) D i meth i cone

Phase 8: Water Carbomer 940 (Carbopol 940)

Phase C : Polyquatern ium-19 ( A r l a t o n e PQ220) Water T r i e t h a n o l ami ne

Percent 2 . 0 0 2.00 1 . o o 3 .00 1 .00 0 .10

50 .00 0 . 1 0

10.00 30.20

0 . 1 0

Phase D: Germaben I 1 0 .50 Procedure:

D ispe rse Carbopol 940 i n water (B) and hea t t o 75C. Heat A t o 70C. Add A t o B and mix u s i n g p r o p e l l e r - t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Heat C t o 70C and add t o AB w i t h tho rough a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 60C w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add D .

Pomade Lotion

O i l Phase: P r o t o p e t IS P e t r o l a t u m Crodamol PMP Volpo 3

Water Phase A : Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 941 10% Sodium Hydrox ide S o l u t i o n

Percent 30 .00 1 0 . 0 0

2.30

46 .35 0 .13 0 .52

Water Phase 6: G l y c e r i n e 5 .00 Volpo s-10 5.70 Germaben I 1 9 , s . Procedure:

Water Phase A . Charge a vesse l w i t h water and d u s t i n t h e Carbomer. S t a r t h e a t i n g t o 80C. When c o m p l e t e l y d i spe rsed , add t h e Sodium Hydrox ide s o l u t i o n and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g .

Combine wa te r Phase B i n a separa te vesse l and mix and hea t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t o water Phase A .

Combine t h e o i l phase, mix and hea t t o 80C. When u n i f o r m add t h e combined wa te r phases s l o w l y w h i l e m i x i n g . Cont inue m i x i ng t o room tempera tu re , SOURCE: W i t c o C o r p . : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested

Fo rmu la t i ons

Lotions 285

Neutralizing Lotion

I nqred i en t s : A F o r e s t a l l

B r i j 35 SP Water, d e i o n i z e d *Stab i 1 i zer

B Hydrogen p e r o x i d e , 35% C *Phosphor ic a c i d

*q. s , these i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w-ly 1.40 2 .oo

92 .30

4.30

Procedure:

t o 5 . 0 w i t h (C) . O p t i o n a l s t a b i l i z e r s may i n c l u d e s e q u e s t r a n t s o r a n t i o x i d a n t s . Formula HC-16

Mix (A) u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add (6) a t 25 deg. C . A d j u s t pH t o 4 .5

Neutralizing Lotion

I nared i e n t s : A Sodium bromate

B r i j 30 P o l y g l y c o l p a l m i t i c amide Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e

B * A c e t i c a c i d , g l a c i a l

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

12.00 4 .50 4 .50

79 .oo

Procedure: Add t h e sodium bromate t o w a t e r . S t i r w i t h heat u n t i l

d i s s o l v e d . Add t h e remainder o f ( A ) . Heat t o 70-75C. A g i t a t e c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l c o o l e d t o room tempera ture . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5-7.0 w i t h ( 6 ) . Package. Formula HC-18

Quick Dry Roll-On Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Cyclomethicone, DC 344 f l u i d

B r i j 52 B r i j 35SP

B Water, d e i o n i zed C Aluminum c h l o r h y d r o x i d e , 50% aqueous

w 12.70 3 . 1 0 0.90

48.30 35 I 00

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 70C and ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t -

a t i o n . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g and s l o w l y add t h e remainder o f i n g r e d i e n t s .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

286 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Broad Spectrum Protective Moisturizing Lotion with Vitamins*

I n g r e d i e n t s : A ) Parso l MCX

Parso l 1789 Parso l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monostearate C e t y l A l c o h o l E x t r a Dermol 185 Ganex V-220 P r i s o r i ne 3505 B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy to luene Edeta BD Phenoni p Amphisol A

E) De ion ized Water AMP 10% s o l ' n

C ) De ion ized Water Propy lene G l y c o l Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n

D) AMP 10% s o l ' n E) De ion ized Water

P a r s o l HS AMP 10% s o l ' n

F) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e G) Ropufa 25N-6 O i l H ) Panthenol I) Ponceau Red SX 0.2% s o l ' n J) P a r f l e x 49915

w 2.00 1 - 0 0 0.60 2.00 2 .00 6 .00 2 . 0 0 2.00 0 .05 0 . 1 0 0.60 1 . 5 0

10 .00 3.97

22.26 5 . 0 0

10.00 1 . 0 2

20.00 0 .60 1.80 2.00 2 . 0 0 2.00 0.25 0.40**

Procedure: Heat p a r t A ) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add

p a r t s B),C) and D) pre-heated t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add P a r t E ) pre-heated t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g (be s u r e t h a t t h e Parso l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s remain, add a smal l q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add p a r t s F) , G ) , H , I) and J). Compensate f o r water loss and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o ambient tempera ture .

Remark : *Whi le n o t a sunscreen, t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n scored an SPF E when

t e s t e d a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA/OTC method ( r a n g e - f i n d i n g assay on s i x s u b j e c t s : I R I Ref . 582627).

pH v a l u e shou ld be around 7 .0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P a r s o l HS.

* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens. The f i n a l

SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure: F o r m u l a t i o n 08 COS 029

Lotions 287

O/W Lotion

1 . 2 . 3. 4. 5 . 6 . 7. 8. 9.

10 1 1

A-C Copolymer 580 Mineral Oil (70 ss) Dow 556 Fluid Propyl ene G1 ycol Di pel argonate Amerchol 400 Ethoxyol 24 Arlacel 60 Tween 60 Propy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate

Sorbi to1 (70%) Carbopol 941

12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 13.Triethanolamine 14. Water

Wt.% 2 . 0 5.0 1 . o

10.0 2.0 1 . o 1 . o 2.0 0.1

5.0 0.5 0.2 0.75

69.45

Procedure: Disperse Carbopol in water. Weigh 1-9 and heat to 80-9OC

with slow agitation. Add remai ni ng i ngredi ents to Carbopol /water dispersion, except triethanolamine, and heat to 80-9OC. Add the water phase to the aqueous phase and shear in homomixer. Continue shearing while cooling to 40C, then add triethanolamine, mixing well. Cool to 30C, add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 5189-2-7

O/W Lotion

1 . 2 . 3. 4. 5. 6 . 7. 8 .

A-C Copolymer 580 Distilled Isopropyl Lanolate Dow 556 Fluid Propylene Glycol Di pel argonate Ethoxyol 24 Arlacel 60 Tween 60 Propy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate

9. Sorbitol (70%) 10. Carbopol 941 1 1 . Triethanolamine 12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 13. Water

wt-,o/, 2.0 3.0 2.0 13.0

1 . o 1 . o 2.0 0.1

5 . 0 0 . 5 0.75 0 . 2

69.45

Procedure: Disperse Carbopol in water. Weigh 1-8 and heat to 80-9OC

with slow agitation. Add remaining ingredients to Carbopol/water dispersion, except triethanolamine, and heat to 80-9OC. Add the water phase to the aqueous phase and shear in homomixer. Continue shearing while cooling to 40C, then add triethanolamine, mixing well. Cool to 30C, add perfume, de-aerate and package. Ref: 51 89-2-8 SOURCE: Allied Signal Inc.: Suggested Formulations

288 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Lotion

1 . A-C Polyethylene 617 2. A-C Copolymer 540 3. Mineral Oil (70 s s ) 4. Dow 556 Fluid 5. Propylene G1 ycol D i pel argonate 6. Hydroxy01 7. Ethoxyol 24 8. Arlacel 60 9. Tween 60 10.Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

Wt . % 1 . o 1 . o 5.0 1 . o

10.5 2.0 1 .0 1.3 1.8 0.1

11.Sorbitol (70%) 5 0 12.Carbopol 941 0.25 13 Germall 115 0 . 4 14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 15 .Triethanolamine 0.75 16.Water 68.8 Procedure:

Disperse Carbopol in water. Weigh 1-10 and heat to 80-9OC with slow agi tat1 on. Add remai ni ng i ngredi ents to Carbopol/ water dispersion, except triethanolamine, and heat o 80-9OC. Add the wax phase to the aqueous phase and shear in homomixer. Continue shearing while cooling to 40C, then add tr ethanolamine, mixing well Cool to 30C, add perfume, deaerate and package. Ref : 51 89-2-5

O/W Lotion

1 . A-C Copolymer 540 2. Mineral Oil, 70 ss 3. Glycerine 4. Isopropyl Palmitate 5. Anhydrous Lanolin 6. Arlacel 165 7. Propyl -P-Hydroxybenzoate

Wt . % 2.0 10.0 5.0 10.0 3.0 5.0 0.1

a . TEA 3.0 9. Tween 60 1 .0 1O.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 1 1 .Germall 115 0.2 12. Water 60.5 Procedure:

are used, solvation will be much faster. Hold wax blend at 85-95C. Weigh 9-12 and heat to 90-95C.

shear in homomixer or equivalent. Cool to 40C while shearing. Add perfume and package. Ref: 501 1-38-9

SOURCE: Allied Signal I n c . : Suggested Formulations

Weigh 1-7 and heat to 85-95C. If higher solvating temperatures

Place aqueous phase in mixing container, add wax phase, and

Lotions 289

O/W Lotion with α-Hydroxy Acids

I n q r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Ceteare th-15 (and) G l y c e r o l S t e a r a t e (Tego Care 215) 6 .0 M i n e r a l O i l 4 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 5 .0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Tegoso f t CT) 5 .0 S t e a r y l A l coho l (Tego A lkano l 18) 5 . 0

Phase 0: G1 y c e r i n Water

Phase C: *-Hydroxy Ac ids (20%)* Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e s

3 .0 62 .0

10.0 Q . S .

* s o l u t i o n c o n t a i n s 10% c i t r i c a c i d and 10% m a l i c a c i d . pH i s a d j u s t e d t o pH 3-3.5 w i t h NaOH.

Procedure:

t o 40C. Add Phase C and c o o l t o 30C o r l o w e r . Heat A and B t o 65C and m ix . Homogenize. Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g

O/W Lotion Cold/Cold Process

I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : PEG-25 G l y c e r y l T r i o l e a t e (Tagat TO) M i n e r a l O i l O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegoso f t CT)

Phase B: Water G l y c e r i n P rese rva t i ves

Phase C : Carbomer 934 M i n e r a l O i l

Phase D: NaOH (10% s o l u t i o n )

Procedure: 1 . Homogenize A + 8, o i l p a r t i c l e s i z e t1.0 urn. 2 . Add C and D, s t i r i n t e n s i v e l y f o r 30 m inu tes .

o f t h e Phases A, B, C, D: a r e 20-25C.

%w/w

2 .0 5 . 5 5 . 5 5 .5

76 .3 3 .0 Q.S.

0 . 3 1 .2

0.7

Temperature

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

290 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil-In-Water Body Care Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a t o n e 985

B r i j 721 Ar lamol HD Almond o i 1

B G-2330 Propy lene g l y c o l A1 pantha Water

%w/w 4 . 0 0 2 .00

10.00 3 .00

1 .25 1 .25 1 . o o

74.00

C *Perfume * P r e s e r v a t i v e *q I s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat (A) and ( B ) t o 70C s e p a r a t e l y . S l o w l y add ( B ) t o (A)

w h i l e s t i r r i n g v i g o r o u s l y . Homogenize around 40C. Remove f r o m t h e homogenizer and a l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add ( C ) and c o o l t o 30C. Package.

Oil/Water Foundation Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A r l a c e l 165 C e t y l a1 coho1 Lanol i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e l a u r y l s u l f a t e Water, d e i o n i z e d

%w/w 6 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0 1 . o o

92.00

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n t o fo rm t h e emuls ion. Con t inue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l t empera tu re drops below 60 deg. C .

Heat i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r t o 9OC. Use con t inuous v i g o r o u s

Oil/Water Foundation Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A S y n t h e t i c spermacet i , Spermwax

A r l a c e l 165

B G l y c e r i n Water, d e i o n i z e d * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

%&4J 5 . 0 0

12.00

5 .00 78.00

Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add wa te r l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Lotions 291

Oil/Water Emollient Lotion

I ngred i e n t s : A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA

Benzophenone-3 Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimeth icone A r l a s o l v e 200 B r i j 7 2

B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e *Fragrance

* q , s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w 7.00 3 .00 7.00 2 .50 1 - 0 0 3 .10 3 .90

7 2 . 1 0 0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0

Procedure:

65C and add ( 8 ) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C and add makeup w a t e r .

D ispe rse Carbomer i n water and hea t (8) t o 60C. Heat (A) t o

Oil/Water Emollient Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : O c t y l d ime thy l PABA Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimeth i cone A r l a s o l v e 200 B r i j 72

Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 934

Sodi urn h y d r o x i de (1 0% W / W aqueous)

* P r e s e r v a t i v e *Fragrance

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

o/ow/w 5.00 7.00 2 .50 1.00 3 .10 3 .90

77.10 0 . 2 0

0 . 2 0

Procedure:

65C and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and s t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 50C and add makeup w a t e r .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

D ispe rse Carbomer i n water and hea t ( 8 ) t o 60C. Heat (A) t o

292 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Perfumed Body Lotion

T h i s creamy body l o t i o n rubs i n e a s i l y and r e l i e v e s dryness . S k i n i s l e f t f e e l i n g s o f t , smooth, and m o i s t u r i z e d . Geahlene enhances t h e r i c h n e s s and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t h i s l o t i on.

I n n r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: De ion ized Water Carbomer/CarboDol 940 Propy l ene G1 y c o l Methy lparaben Panthenol /DL-Panthenol

M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/ S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Sty rene Copolymer//Geahlene 750

Propylene G l y c o l Dicaprylate/Dicaprate//Myritol PC I s o s t e a r y l A l c o h o l / P r i s o r i n e 3515 Propylparaben C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e / A r l a c e l 165 Dimethicone/Dow Corn ing 200, 100 cSt Potassium C e t y l Phosphate/Amphisol K Tocophery l A c e t a t e / V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e

T r i e thano l ami ne, 99%

D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal 1 I I

Soy Leci th in/Sedermasome Fragrance

Wei ah t% 67.20

0 . 2 0 7 . 0 0 0 . 2 0 0 .10

7 .00 7 .00 2 . 0 0 0 .10 2 . 0 0 2 .50 0 . 5 0 1 . 7 5 0.10

0 . 1 5

0 . 2 0

1 .oo 1 .oo

Procedure: D isperse Carbomer i n t o r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i z e d water .

Add remain ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 75-80C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m and lump- f ree . Combine p a r t B. Heat t o 80C and mix u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M ix f o r 30 minutes w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Add p a r t C . M i x u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y smooth and homogeneous. Cool t o 50C. Add p a r t D . Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t E . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.

SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Lotions 293

Silk Protein Skin Lotion

1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6 . 7. 8 . 9 .

M i n e r a l O i l Mackester SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) E m u l s i f y i n g Wax N.F. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e i3 PEG-100 S t e a r a t e P o l y s o r b a t e 80 S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e G l y c e r i n Acetamide MEA 100% Mackpro NSP ( O l e y l / P a l m i t y l / P a l m i t o l e a m i d o p r o p y l /

S i l k h y d r o x y p r o p y l Dimonium C h l o r i d e ) 1O.Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) 11. Fragrance 12. De ion i zed Water

Wei Qht .% 3 .00 2.00 3 .00 2 .00 0 . 6 6 0.60 2.00 1 .oo

2.50 qs q s q s

Procedure: 1 . M e l t 1 ,2,3,4,5,6,7,8, i n a separa te c o n t a i n e r t o 75 degrees C . 2 . I n t h e m i x i n g t a n k heat t h e water #12 t o 78 degrees C . and

3 . S t a r t m i x i n g and add t h e h o t m i x t u r e o f 1 t h r u 8 s l o w l y w i t h

4. Then s t a r t s low c o o l i n g w i t h good m i x i n g w i t h o u t a e r a t i o n . 5 . A t 45 degrees C . add #10 and #11 and mix i n . 6 . Check pH and a d j u s t i f needed t o 4 . 8 - 5 . 8 . 7 . M ix u n t i l c o o l .

add #9.

good a g i t a t i o n and mix w e l l f o r 20 minu tes .

Pearlescent Bath Lotion

Sodi um L a u r y l Sul f a t e Mackanate EL ( D i sod i urn L a u r e t h Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) Mackam 35 HP (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) Mackester SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) Sodium C h l o r i d e Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o

Wei a h t ,% 40.0 30.0

5 . 0 1 . 5 1 . o 0 . 5

100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o water and heat t o 70C. 2. B lend u n t i l EGMS i s c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . 3 . Add sodium c h l o r i d e and c o o l t o 45C. 4. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and dye. 5 . Cool t o room tempera ture and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group Ltd.: Personal Care Formulary

294 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Care Body Lotion

T h i s p r o d u c t i m p a r t s good s k i n f e e l and has a h i g h q u a l i t y appearance, though t h e p r o d u c t i o n i s c o s t e f f e c t i v e . There a r e a l s o b a r r i e r and m o i s t u r i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s which a c t as a h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e h y d r a t i o n system f o r a l l s k i n t y p e s . A fo rmula o f t h i s t y p e a1 so he1 p reduce t r a n s e p i dermal water 1 oss . O i l Phase: C e t y l s t e a r y l A lcoho l 161 8 (P&G) NF Whi te Beeswax (Kos ter Keunen) L i g h t M i n e r a l O i l (Wi tco) I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) Amerchol L l O l (Amerchol ) Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 11 ed) G l y c e r i n e (Unichema) P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c o l 1450 (Union Carb ide) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (CMC, Hercu les) Carbopol 940 (BF Goodr ich) Sodium B o r a t e (Borax) T r i e thano l ami ne (Dow) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

3 .50% 1.50% 4.00% 1 .OO% 2 .00% 0.20%

76.05% 6.00% 3.50% 0.30% 0.25% 0.50% 0 * 20% 0.20%

Procedure: Add t o t h e water phase under a g i t a t i o n , i n o rder ; CMC u n t i l

d i s s o l v e d , t h e n p r o p y l paraben w h i l e m i x i n g . Add carbopo l , mix t i l l homogeneous making s u r e t h e r e a r e no agg lomera t ions . Then t h e remainder o f t h e water phase components can be added, mix and heat t o 75C. Add a l l t h e o i l phase components, h e a t t i l l 75C. and mix . Add s l o w l y t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase under a g i t a - t i o n m a i n t a i n i n g a tempera ture o f 75C. When t h e o i l phase i s added, c o o l and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r .

Adapt ion o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : By r e d u c i n g t h e c o n c e n t r a t i o n s o f m i n e r a l o i l by 2.0%,

p o l y e t h y l e n e g l y c o l 1000 by 0.5% and t h e a d d i t i o n o f 2.5% E s c a l o l 507 (Van Dyk) t h e cream w i l l t a k e on an SPF o f 6-8. The p r o d u c t has t h e same appearance, s k i n f e e l and s t a b i l i t y . Fragrance can a l s o be added w i t h o u t a f f e c t i n g t e x t u r e .

SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Lotions 295

Skin Moisturizing Lotion

Phase A : Percent P o l y p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l T e t r a l a u r a t e (M i rano l E s t e r PO-LM4) 4.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG 100 S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 165) 5.00 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 3.50 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e 2.00 Propy lene G l y c o l D ipe la rgona te (Emerest 2388) 1 - 0 0 Beeswax 2.00 S t e a r i c A c i d 1 .oo S t e a r y l A l coho l 0.50 Cyclomethicone (Dow Corn ing F l u i d 344) 0.50

Phase 8 : Water Carbomer 934, 3% s o l u t i o n (Carbopol 934) Propy lene G l y c o l

Phase C : T r i e thano lamine

Phase D: Germaben 1 1 - E

6 7 - 7 0 7 . 5 0 3.50

0 .80

1 - 0 0

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . Then add Phase C . Cool t o 40C and add Phase D. Heat Phase A & Phase 8 s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C and add B t o A w i t h

Dry Skin Lotion

Phase A : C e t y l A l coho l E s t o l EHP 1543 T r i v e n t NP-13 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 DC S i l i c o n e B r i j 58 B r i j 20

Phase 8 : Dei o n i zed water Carbopol 940 Dermacryl-79 P r i c e r i ne 9083 T r i ethano l ami ne (99%)

Phase C: Germaben I 1 E

Phase D: Fragrance

2.00% 2 . 0 0 4 .00 1 .oo 1 .oo 1 .oo 1 . o o

81.50 0 .50 1 . oo 3.00 1 .oo

1 . oo

q . s .

SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

296 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Skin Softening Lotion

%* A. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3.00

G l y c e r y l D i l a u r a t e (Lexemul GDL) 5.00 C e t e a r y l A1 coho1 (and) Ceteareth-20 (Lexemul CS-20) 3.00 Propylene G l y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e (Lexo l PG-865) 4.00 M i n e r a l O i l 2.50 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10

B. G l y c e r i n USP 3.00 De ion ized Water 76.13 Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.25

C . Quaternium-76 Hydro lyzed Co l lagen ( L e x e i n QX-3000) 3.00 D. 2-Bromo-2-Ni t ropropane-1 ,3-Di 01 (Lexgard Bronopol ) 0 . 0 2 Procedure: 1 . Heat phase "A" and phase "B" t o 75C. 2. Add phase "A" t o phase "B" w i t h good a g i t a t i o n a t 75C. 3 . Cont inue t o mix w i t h good a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 50C. 4 . Add phase "C" t o "AB" and mix t i l l homogeneous. 5 . When phase "ABC" i s below 50C add phase "D". 6. Cont inues a g i t a t i o n and c o o l t o 30C, t h e n f i l l .

Formula 297-86

Skin Lotion

T h i s m o i s t u r i z i n g l o t i o n a p p l i e s e f f o r t l e s s l y . The Lexorez 100 adds an e l e g a n t s k i n f e e l which a l s o may a c t as a p r o t e c t a n t a i d .

9&& A . O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l EHS) 7.50

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 3 . 5 0 G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer

(Lexorez 100) 2 . 0 0 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .05

B. Carbomer (Carbopol 941) 0.30 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e NF (99%) 0.20 Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0 .15 Dei o n i zed Water 86.30

Procedure: 1 . Heat water t o 70C and combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase "Bql . M i x

u n t i l a l l o f t h e Carbomer i s i n s o l u t i o n . 2 . I n a separa te v e s s e l , m e l t components q f phase "A" t o g e t h e r .

Heat t o 70C. 3 . S l o w l y add phase " A " t o phase "B" w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . M i x

w e l l u n t i l homogeneous. 4 . Beg in t o c o o l . Cont inue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l m i x t u r e i s a t ambient

tempera ture t h e n f i l l . 5. A d j u s t f o r water loss.

Formula SK-114

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: Suggested Formula t ions

Lotions 297

Soft & Silky Lotion

P a r t ( A ) : Rosswax 63-0412 Rosswax 1641 Rosswax 63-0212

Ross L o t i o n O i l 2745

P a r t ( e ) : Water Propylene G lyco l Germaben I 1 T r i e thano l ami ne

P a r t (C): Fragrance

GMS-SE

1 . 6 1 . 2 1 . o 2 . 1 9 . 4

78.0 4 . 7 1 . o 1 . o

q . s .

Procedure: Heat P a r t (A) and P a r t ( B ) t o 170F i n separa te steam j a c k -

e ted k e t t l e s under a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y heated, add P a r t (A) t o P a r t (B) under a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 130F, Fragrance and package.

Low Cost Low Solids Lotion

Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jo joba O i 1 Dow Corn ing S i l i c o n e 344 T r i e thano l ami ne Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Germaben I 1

P a r t s bv Wei q h t 500.0gr .

4 .0g r . 4 . 0 g r . 4 . 0 g r . 3 . 0 g r . 6 . 0 g r . 4 . 0 g r . q . s . 9 , s .

Procedure: Heat t h e water under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e Carbomer

934. When f u l l y mixed add t h e 573, GMS, Jo joba O i l and S i l i c o n e have been b lended i n a separa te k e t t l e m a i n t a i n i n g a tempera ture of 140F. As soon as a l l t h e i n g r e d i e n t s have been mixed w e l l add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e s , t h e Perfume, and add t h e TEA, under h i g h a g i t - a t i o n , coo l t o 120F and package.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

298 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Strawberry Hand Lotion

Water Carbomer 934

A p r i c o t O i l L i p o v a l P Rosswax 573 Coconut O i l #76

GMS-SE

Ross J o j o b a O i 1 TEA Germaben I 1 Fragrance DO-60

P a r t s bv Wei qht 568. Ogr

2. Ogr 4. Ogr

16.0gr 4 . 0 g r

16.0gr 4 .0gr 4. Ogr 6. Ogr q . s .

Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e

Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y mixed, add t h e 573, GMS, A p r i c o t O i l , Coconut O i l and Jo joba O i l t h a t have been heated t o 65C in a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e . As soon as t h e o i l phase has been mixed w e l l , add t h e Germaben 11, t h e f r a g r a n c e , and t h e n t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .

Apricot Hand Lotion

Water Carbomer 934

A p r i c o t O i l - L i p o v a l P Rosswax 573 Coconut O i l #76 Ross Jo joba O i l TEA Germaben I1 Fragrance GK-17

GMS-SE

P a r t s by Wei q h t 568. Ogr

2 . Ogr 4 . Ogr

16 .0gr 4. Ogr

16 .0gr 4 .0gr 4. Ogr 6 Ogr 9 , s .

Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 60C under a g i t a t i o n and s l o w l y add t h e

Carbomer 934. When t h e water i s f u l l y mixed, add t h e 573, GMS, A p r i c o t O i l , Coconut O i l and Jo joba O i l t h a t have been heated t o 65C i n a s e p a r a t e k e t t l e . As soon as t h e O i l Phase has been mixed w e l l , add t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed, add t h e Germaben I1 and t h e n t h e TEA under h i g h a g i t - a t i o n , t h e n f r a g r a n c e . Cool t o 55C f o r f i l l i n g .

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Lotions 299

Super Moisturizing Lotion

Thi s s i 1 k y - f e e l i ng emu1 s i o n i s s t a b i 1 i zed and t h i c k e n e d u s i n g a s y n e r g i s t i c combina t ion o f Veegum Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e and Rhodigel Xanthan Gum. It a l s o c o n t a i n s t h e sodium s a l t o f p y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l i c a c i d as a n a t u r a l m o i s t u r i z i n g f a c t o r a long w i t h t h e w e l l known humectant, g l y c e r i n e . T h i s l o t i o n spreads e a s i l y and i s q u i c k l y absorbed l e a v i n g t h e s k i n m o i s t and supp le .

InQred i e n t : A Veegum

Rhodi g e l Dei o n i zed Water

B Sodium PCA ( 2 ) G l y c e r i n e

C Hydrogenated Po ly isobutene ( 3 ) M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A lcoho l ( 4 ) C e t y l A lcoho l I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e P o l y s o r b a t e 40

P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, Fragrance D C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 .5

% bv W t . 1 . o 0 .5

74 .5

3 . 0 5 . 0

4 .0 3 . 0 2.0 2 . 0 1 . 2 3 . 8

q . s . q . s .

( 2 ) A j idew N-50 ( 3 ) Po lysyn lane ( 4 ) Amerchol L-101

P r e p a r a t i o n : Dry b l e n d Veegum and Rhodigel and add t o t h e water , m i x i n g

w i t h maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Add B i n g r e d i e n t s and mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d . Mix C i n g r e d i e n t s and heat t o 50C u n t i l a u n i f o r m c l e a r m i x t u r e i s o b t a i n e d . Add C t o (A+B) w i t h h i g h speed m i x i n g . Avo id i n c o r p o r a t i n g a i r . Cool w i t h con- t i n u o u s s t i r r i n g t o 30C and add D.

Cons is tency : Medium V i s c o s i t y L o t i o n ( V i s c o s i t y : 1900-2400 cps)

Suggested Packaging: P l a s t i c squeeze b o t t l e o r pump.

Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s des igned t o serve as a gu ide f o r

t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i x t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R . T , V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 437

300 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

TRF Facial Lotion

Phase A : Ce tea ry l A l coho l (and) Ceteare th-20 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ( A r l a c e l 60) S t e a r i c Ac id , t r i p l e pressed G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Emerest 2400) C e t e a r y l A l coho l C e t y l Ace ta te (and) A c e t y l a t e d L a n o l i n A l coho l C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate ( F i n s o l v TN) PPG-15 S t e a r y l E the r (Ar lamol E) D i methi cone C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1

Phase B: Carbomer 941 (2% D i s p . ) (Carbopol 941) Magnesi urn Aluminum S i 1 i c a t e (Veegum) Potassium Hydrox ide ( p e l l e t s ) Te t rasod i um EDTA G l y c e r i n Water

Phase C : T i ssue R e s p i r a t o r y Fac to rs (Biodynes TRF) Germaben I 1 Fragrance

Percent 0.80 0 .50 0 .50 1 . o o 1.40 0 .50 0 .40 0 . 4 0 0 .20 3 . 0 0

7 .50 0 . 3 0 0 .15 0 . 1 0 3 .00

78 .55

0.70 0 .50 0 .50

Procedure: M e l t Phase A t o 75C. Heat water t o 70C and d i s p e r s e t h e

Veegum. Add t h e Carbopol s l u r r y and t h e g l y c e r i n and EDTA. Add t o Phase A and add t h e po tass ium hyd rox ide . Cool t o 50C and add Phase C .

Facial Moisturizing Lotion (W/O)

I n q r e d i e n t s : C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 A ldo MCT S y n t h e t i c Beeswax L a n o l i n Pol y a l do 10-6-0 De ion ized Water Sodi um Bora te G lydant P l u s

%Wt. 40.00

2 . 0 0 10.00

1 .00 2 . 5 0

43.90 0 . 6 0

q . s

SOURCE: W i t co Corp . : Petroleum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Lotions 301

Ultra Moisturizing Lotion

T h i s creamy, o i l - i n - w a t e r emuls ion i s t h i c k e n e d and s t a b i l i z e d w i t h a s y n e r g i s t i c combina t ion o f Veegum U l t r a and Carbomer. The wel l -known humectant g l y c e r i n pe r fo rms t h e m o i s t u r i z i n g f u n c t i o n . Veegum U l t r a a l s o enhances t h e wh i teness and b r i g h t n e s s o f t h e emuls ion and h e l p s a d j u s t t h e pH t o approx imate t h a t o f t h e s k i n . The l o t i o n spreads e a s i l y and i s r a p i d l y absorbed, l e a v i n g t h e s k i n m o i s t and supp le .

I n a r e d i e n t : % by W t . A Veegum U1 t r a (Magnesi um A1 umi num S i 1 i c a t e ) 0 .15

Carbomer 980 ( 2 ) 0 .15 Dei o n i zed Water 73 .70

B G l y c e r i n 5 .00

C M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A l coho l ( 3 ) C e t y l A l coho l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Hydrogenated Po ly i sobu tene ( 4 ) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e S o r b i t a n P a l m i t a t e Po lyso rba te 40

D P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance Sodium Hydrox ide , (10% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 . 0

4 . 0 0 2.00 2 .00 5.00 3 .00 1 .20 3.80

( 2 ) Carbopol 980 ( 3 ) Amerchol L-101 ( 4 ) Polysyn lane

Dry b l e n d Veegum U l t r a and Carbomer and add them s l o w l y t o t h e Procedure:

water w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m ixe r a t 700 rpm. Inc rease t h e m ixe r speed t o 1500-1700 rpm and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g f o r 30 m inu tes . Add B and mix 5 m inu tes . M ix C i n g r e d i e n t s and hea t t o 50C. Heat (A and 6) m i x t u r e t o 5 0 C . Add C t o (A and B) and mix a t 50C and 1500-1700 rpm f o r 10 m inu tes . Slow t h e m ixe r t o 1000 rpm w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add D and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Produc t C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s : V i s c o s i t y : 2200-2800 cps pH: 6.0+-0.2

Comments:

t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement of e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., Inc.: Formula No. 450

T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s des igned t o se rve as a gu ide f o r

302 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Un-Buffered Alpha Hydroxy Acid Lotion

The r e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a t h i n l o t i o n t h a t would be c o m p a t i b l e f o r use i n a g l a s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s L a c t i c Ac id , as t h e a lpha hydroxy a c i d (AHA), a t a use l e v e l o f approx imate ly 4.5%.

A . De ion ized Water Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 2,4-D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP)

80.50 0 .20 0.20

B. G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) S tearamidoethy l D i e t h y l a m i n e (Lexemul AR) 1 .50

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) 1 . 5 0 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 4.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 3 .00 Stearamidopropyl Dimethy lamine (Lexamine S-13) 2 .00 M i n e r a l O i l NF ( L i g h t ) 2.00 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0.10

C . L a c t i c A c i d (88%) 5 .00

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. Use a p r o p e l l e r mixer

2 . Combine s e c t i o n "B" h e a t i n g t o 80-85C. A g i t a t e s l o w l y w i t h

3 . When s e c t i o n s "A" & "BII a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g -

4. Reduce m i x i n g speed d u r i n g c o o l i n g t o p r e v e n t v o r t e x i n g . 5 . A t 55-60C add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB".

f o r a g i t a t i o n .

a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r .

na ted tempera tures s l o w l y add "B'l t o "A", t h e n b e g i n c o o l i n g .

6 . A t 45C a d j u s t f o r water loss. 7. Mix t o room tempera ture .

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : V i s c o s i t y : 700 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e

pH: 2 . 3 @ 24C 24 hour sample

SOURCE: Inolex Chemical Co.: Formulat

d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) .

on 398-30-3

Lotions 303

W/O Lotion

A . M i g l y o l 840 Gel B M i g l y o l 840 M i g l y o l 812 A r l a c e l 481 A r l a c e l 989 I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e Vase1 i ne

6 . G l y c e r o l Magnesi um su lpha te Carbopol 934 Water

C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

% 4 . 0 7 . 5 5 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0 5 .0 2 . 0

5 . 0 0 . 7 0 . 2

t o 1 0 0 . 0

Prepara t i on : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 75-8OC.

Those o f B . a r e mixed w i t h a h i g h speed s t i r r e r , heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d , i n smal l amounts, i n A . w i t h t h e h i g h speed s t i r r e r . C . i s added a t approx . 3 0 C .

Body Lotion

A . M i g l y o l 840 I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s Marlophor T10 Na s a l t C e t y l a l c o h o l

B. Hos tace r in g e l 1%* Ka r ion F Water

C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

7 . 0 4 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 3

12 .5 5 . 0

t o 100.0

qs qs

P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 75-8OC. Those

o f 6. a r e b rough t t o t h e same tempera ture and g r a d u a l l y s t i r r e d i n t o A . C . i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t approx. 3 0 C .

*P repara t i on o f t h e H o s t a c e r i n g e l : Hos tace r in PN73 1 .O% Water t o 100.0%

The H o s t a c e r i n i s mixed w i t h water u n t i l homogeneous and t h e m i x t u r e s t i r r e d u n t i l t h e g e l i s c l e a r .

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons for Cosmetics: Formulas

304 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O Lotion with Eldew I n a r e d i en ts /Trade Name: YO by Weight P a r t A : D i - ( C h o l e s t e r y l , beheny l , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N-Lauroy l -L -g lu tamic a c i d es ter /E ldew CL-301 2 . 0 0 C e t e a r y l Octanoate 10.00 C12-Cl5 A l k y l Benzoate 5 . 0 0 Phenoxyethanol 0 .60 Tocopheryl Ace ta te 0 . 0 5 P a r t B : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l D imeth icone Copo lyo l (and) Hexyl Laura te 5 . 0 0

C e t y l D imeth icone 3 .00 P a r t C : Dei o n i zed Water 65.55 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 0 G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 5 .00 P a r t i a l l y Deace ty la ted C h i t i n ( l . O % ) / M a r i n e Dew 2 .00

Methylparaben 0.20

Procedure:

A . Pre-melt p a r t D by h e a t i n g t o 50 degrees C . Add t o p a r t C . S low ly add P a r t C and D m i x t u r e t o P a r t s A and B w i t h h i g h shear m i x i ng.

P a r t D :

Bu ty lene G1 yco l 0 . 8 0

Pre-mel t p a r t A a t 50 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add p a r t B t o p a r t

Appearance: White, smooth, s h i n y l o t i o n pH: 6.0-6.5 V i s c o s i t y : 20,000-20,000 (RVT #6 @ lOrpm @ 25 degrees C)

I n g r e d i e n t s : % Weight Phase A : M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 0 0 Ami te r LGOD 2 . 0 0 Propy lene G lyco l S t e a r a t e 0 . 5 0 PEG-5 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 1 . 5 0 PEG-5 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e 2 . 5 0

A m i hope-LL 3 .00 Phase B: Acy l g l utamate HS-1 1 0 . 3 0 Carbomer 941 0 . 2 0 Sodi um Hydrox i de 0 . 0 8 Bu ty lene G l y c o l 5 . 0 0

Water 79.62

Mild Lotion with Amihope

Buty lparaben 0 .10

Methylparaben 0 . 2 0

Procedure:

Add a l l o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o t h e s o l u t i o n and d i s s o l v e a t 75 t o 80 degrees c e n t i g r a d e .

b o t h phases a r e a t BO degrees c e n t i g r a d e add A t o B w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

SOURCE: Ajinomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Formulat ion

D i s s o l v e Carbomer 941 and Sodium Hydrox ide i n water f i r s t .

D i s s o l v e Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s a t BO degrees c e n t i g r a d e . When

Cool down t o room tempera ture w h i l e c o n t i n u i n g m ix ing . T h i s l o t i o n has a smooth f e e l i n g and good s p r e a d a b i l i t y .

Section VIII Shampoos

305

306 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Acid Balanced Conditioning Shampoo

Wei TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e (40%) Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl Be ta ine ) Mackalane 426 ( I sos tea ramidopropy l Morpho l i ne L a c t a t e ) Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o

Procedure: 1 . Add components t o water and hea t t o 40 degrees C . 2. Blend u n t i l c l e a r . 3 . A d j u s t pH t o 4.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4. Cool and f i 11.

All Purpose Shampoo

ht,96 35.0 10.0 6.0

qs 00.0

Mackadet SBC-8 ( M i I d B lend) Sodium C h l o r i d e Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o

Weiaht,% 2 0 . 0

qs qs

100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add Mackadet SBC-8 t o water and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2. Add Macks ta t DM and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y t o 2000-3000 cps w i t h

3. Add dye, f rag rance , and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . sodium c h l o r i d e .

Aloe Vera Gel Shampoo

A loe Vera Gel L i q u i d (1:l) Water Mackernium 007 (Po lyqua te rn ium 7 ) Mackadet SBC-8 (Mi I d B lend) Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) Fragrance, Dye qs t o

Wei q h t .% 5 0 . 0 14.5 3.0 32.0

qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Disperse Mackernium 007 i n water and A loe Vera L i q u i d . 2. Add Mackadet SBC-8 and hea t t o 45 degrees C . 3. Blend u n t i l homogeneous. 4. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 5 . Add rema in ing components and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 6. Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

Shampoos 307

Aloe Vera Shampoo

A.

8 .

C.

I n s r e d i e n t s : D . I. Water A loe Veragel 200 Powder Sodium C h l o r i d e Hydro lyzed animal p r o t e i n

Sodi u m 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e C i t r i c a c i d Fragrance D.M.D.M. Hydanto in Germal l 115 ( p r e s e r v a t i v e )

R i chami de 1 i q u i d

Percent 64.04

0.1 1 .3 1 . o

26.0 0 .40 0 .15 0.20 0.10

6.0

Procedure:

Phase "A" . B lend t o g e t h e r . Add Phase "C" and mix t o g e t h e r . M i x Phase ' IA" t o g e t h e r . M i x Phase "Btl t o g e t h e r and add t o

Aloe Vera Premium-Type Shampoo with Protein

I n n r e d i e n t s : A loe Veragel 1 : l C y c l o r y l WAT C y c l o t e r i c BET-C3O P e p t e i n 2000 Cycl omi de DC212S NaCl C i t r i c A c i d Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e , C o l o r

Percent 28.0 60.0

5.0 1 .o 4 .0 1 .o q . s . q . s .

Procedure: Warm A loe Veragel and WAT t o 40C, and b l e n d i n i n g r e d i e n t s

as l i s t e d . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaCl and a d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d .

SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

308 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Dandruff Lotion Shampoo

Weight,% P a r t A: Veegum 1 . o Methocel FYM 0 .8 Water qs t o 100.0 P a r t B: Sodium O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e (40%) 3 5 . 0 Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) 4 .0 Mackamide S (Soyamide DEA) 1 . o Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )

( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2 .o P a r t C: Z i n c Omadine (48%) 4 . 0

Procedure: 1 . Thoroughly d i s p e r s e Veegum i n water a t 70 degrees C. 2 . Then s l o w l y add Methocel FYM and b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous. 3. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A and a d j u s t pH t o 6 - 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4 . Add Z i n c Omadine and b l e n d u n t i l homogeneous.

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo Cream Type

Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) Sodium C h l o r i d e T r i p l e Pressed S t e a r i c A c i d Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) Propylene G l y c o l Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e (48%) Mackami de PK (Pa l mkernel ami de DEA) C a u s t i c Soda (50%) Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o

Weiaht.% 61 . 8 10 .0 7.0 5 . 0 4 . 0 4.0 4 . 0 2.0 1 .6

qs 100.0

Procedure: 1. Heat s t e a r i c a c i d , Mackamide LLM, Mackamide PKM and propy lene

2 . Heat SLS, Mackam 35HP, Sodium C h l o r i d e , C a u s t i c Soda and water

3. Add o i l t o water and c o o l t o 55 degrees C . 4. S l o w l y add Z i n c P y r i t h i o n e . 5. Cool t o 45 degrees C . and add remain ing components. 6. F i l l a t 40 degrees C .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

g l y c o l t o 70 degrees C.

t o 70 degrees C .

Shampoos 309

Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

A n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo: w i t h c o n d i t i o n i n g a c t i o n coup led w i t h n a t u r a l suspension r e s u l t i n g i n c o s m e t i c a l l y e l e g a n t , h i g h l y e f f i c a c o u s a n t i - d a n d r u f f shampoo.

I n q r e d i e n t s : %w/w 1 . Sodium Laure th-3 S u l f a t e (Stand-

apol ES-3) 57.69 2 . P a t i o n i c ISL/85* 3.00

3 . R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t o a r a t e ) 3 . 0 0 4 . Propylene G lyco l 2 .00 5 . Z inc Omadine 2 .00 6 . Ri tavena-5 (Hydro lyzed Oat F l o u r ) 4.50 7 . Fragrance 0 .25 8 . P a t l a c LA (44%) ( L a c t i c Ac d ) 0 .40 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 27.16

* Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l Lac ty

Func t i on

La the r , C lean ing C o n d i t i o n i n g ,

Deposi t i on Opac i t y , S tab i 1 i t y S t a b i 1 i t y Ac t i ve Suspensi on, C1 ean Feel Odor pH Adjustment ----

a t e @ 85% i n Propy lene G lyco l

Compounding Procedure: Pre-mix i t ems 1 t o 4 a t 165F. Add i t e m 5 w i t h h

m i x i n g . Hydra te i t e m 6 i n 210F wa te r . Cool t o 165F Cool t o 120F. Add perfume and a d j u s t pH and v i s c o s

Ref . No. 113-141C

gh sheer and m ix . t Y .

Cleaning Shampoo Type

Clear viscous shampoo designed for oily hair types.

I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (S tepano l

AM 1

apol EA-2) 2 . Ammonium Laure th S u l f a t e (Stand-

3 . 01 eamidopropyl B e t a i ne ( M i r a t a i ne

4. R i t a l o e 40X (A loe Vera G e l ) 5 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r o y l

6 . Kathon CG 7 . Fragrance - Squeeky Clean #165-047 8. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 9. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Wter

BET-0-30)

L a c t y l a t e )

%w/w F u n c t i o n

30.00 C1 eani ng, La the r

25.00 C lean ing , La the r

6 .00 Mi ldness , V i s c o s i t y 0 .50 No S t a t i c Fly-Away

2.50 M i l d n e s s , C o n d i t i o n i n g 0 . 3 0 P r e s e r v a t i o n 0.03 Odor

q.s.pH Adjustment 35.67 ----

Compounding Procedure:

u n i f o r m i t y . Cool t o 120F and add p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume. A d j u s t pH i f necessary t o 5 . 8 .

To t h e water add i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t o 5 . Heat t o 165F. Mix t o

Re f . No. 118-69

SOURCE: R . I .T .A . Carp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

310 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Anti-Dandruff Shampoos

0 40/39: Ze teso l 856 T 25.0% Amphotensid 0 4 4.0% 0 i o - s u l p h u r CLR 1 . O % Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%

0 41/24: Ze teso l 856T 20.0% P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 4.0% Condi pon 4.0% Ant i -dandru f f -Usnat A 0 2.0% Perfume 0.3% Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%

0 41/26: Ze teso l 2056 Amphotensid 0 4 P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 A n t i - d a n d r u f f - U s n a t A 0 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i ve

28.0% 8.0% 4.0% 2.0% 0.5%

9,s. t o make 100.0%

Shampoos for Greasy Hair

0 40/56: Ze teso l 856 T M u l s i f a n RT 275 Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

0 41/27: Ze teso l 2056 Amphotensid 0 4 P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 M u l s i f a n RT 275 Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

30.0% 2.0% 1 .O%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

28.0% 8.0% 4.0% 1 .O% 0.5%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH: Suggested Formula t ions

Shampoos 311

Antidandruff Shampoo

M a t e r i a l s : 1 . De ion ized Water 2 . Bentone MA Rheo log ica l A d d i t i v e 3 . Methocel E 4M Premium 4 . Z i n c Omadine 48% 5 . Super Amide GR 6 . Standapol T 7 . Tr ie thano lamine 8 . Co lo r and Fragrance

% bv Weight 48.55

1 . o o 0.75 4.20 4.00

3 8 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 0 .50

Manu fac tu r ing D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Heat De ion ized Water t o 70C, and w i t h r a p i d s t i r r i n g , add

Bentone MA a d d i t i v e s l o w l y and mix i t f o r 20 minu tes or u n t i l homogeneous. M a i n t a i n t h e tempera ture th rough s t e p 4 .

s t i r r i n g . 2 . Add Methocel and mix i t f o r 15 minu tes w i t h con t inuous

3 . Add Z i n c Omadine and mix f o r 5 m inu tes . 4. Reduce t h e s t i r r e r speed and a t low speed add Super Amide GR.

5. Turn o f f t h e heat and w h i l e c o o l i n g , add Standapol T . Mix f o r

6 . Add T r ie thano lamine and c o l o r s o l u t i o n , s t i r s l o w l y u n t i l

Mix f o r 10 m inu tes .

15 minu tes a t low speed.

mixed. A d j u s t t h e water l o s s and c o o l i t t o room tempera tu re . Add f r a g r a n c e and mix i t .

SOURCE: Rheox, I n c a : Fo rmu la t i on TS-261

Protein Shampoo

Deion ized Water Busan 1504 Panthenol D i sod i um EDTA C i t r i c A c i d A loe Vera 2 0 0 X Sodi um Laure th-2 S u l f a t e Cocamide DEA Cocami dopropy l B e t a i ne Hydro lyzed Co l lagen Pro te in -55%

42.85 0 . 1 0 0.25 0 . 0 5 0 . 2 0 0.05

42.00 4.00 5 .50 5 . 0 0

Procedure:

so l ved . F o l l o w w i t h rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r shown, m i x i n g w e l l between each a d d i t i o n .

SOURCE: Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Add Busan 1504 p r e s e r v a t i v e i n t o wa te r , and mix u n t i l d i s -

312 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Balsam & Protein Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s : A CP 1052 (shampoo base)

Water Hydro lyzed Co l lagen (Hormel-Peptein 2000x1) Balsam

B NaCl

Procedure:

%B 31.50 67.20

0 .25 0 . 2 5

0 .80

Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add P r o t e i n and balsam w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add s a l t under f a s t e r s t i r r i n g t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y . Formula CP 1060

Balsam & Protein Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s : A G-9600 (shampoo base)

Water Hydro lyzed Co l lagen (Hormel-Peptein 2000x1) Balsam

B * P r e s e r v a t i v e

*q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .

Procedure:

P r o t e i n and balsam w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Formula CP 1067

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add

w&9J 31 . 5 0 68.17

0 .30 0 . 0 3

Shampoos 313

Cleaning Shampoo

Viscous, h i g h foaming shampoo which maximizes c l e a n i n g b y removing s t y l i n g and r e s i d u e s f rom h a i r .

I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium (C14-Cl6) O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e

2 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e @ 25% 3 . R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA) 4. Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35 HP) 5. R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 6 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r y l L a c t y l a t e ) 7 . Kathon CG 8 . Fragrance--Nature Harves t #165-050 9. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 10.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . )

( B i o t e r g e AS 40)

w 20.00 2 0 . 0 0

3.00 3 .00 1 .oo 2.50 0.03 0 . 3 0

q . s . q . s .

11 . D i s t i 1 l e d Water 50.17

F u n c t i o n

C lean ing , L a t h e r C lean ing , L a t h e r L a t h e r D e n s i t y M i ldness V i s c o s i t y Mi ldness , Body P r e s e r v a t i o n Odor pH Adjustment V i s c o s i t y Adjustment

Compounding Procedure:

120F and add f ragrance and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Cool t o 95F and a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 and v i s c o s i t y as d e s i r e d .

To t h e water add i n g r e d i e n t s 1 t o 6 i n o r d e r a t 165F. Cool t o

Ref . No. 118-18

Cleaning Shampoo

N e u t r a l i z i n g shampoo t o t h o r o u g h l y c l e a n h a i r . Can be used a f t e r r e l a x e r o r h a i r s t r a i g h t e n e r t r e a t m e n t s .

I nared i e n t s : %m F u n c t i o n 1 . A lpha O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ( B i o t e r g e AS-40) 37.50 C lean ing , No

Residue 2 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 .00 Rinse Out,

Combing 3 . R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA) 3.00 Bubble Toughness 4. Fragrance-Nature Harves t 165-050 0.30 Odor 5 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) q .s .pH Adjustment

Compounding Procedure:

i tems 3 and 4 and add a t 120F. Thoroughly mix and a d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

6 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 5 6 - 2 0 - --------------

To t h e water a t 165F add 1 and 2. Cool t o 120F. Pre-mix

Ref . No. 118-51

SOURCE: R.I.T.A, Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

314 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 26% s o l u t i o n

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 28% s o l u t i o n Cocoamphocarboxypropionate, 38% s o l . Laurami de DEA Tween 20 Water

B F o r e s t a l l C * C i t r i c a c i d

%w/w 15.50 15.00 12.50

3 . 0 0 2 . 0 0

50.60 i .40

* q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .

Procedure:

Add (B). A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 t o 5 . 5 w i t h ( C ) . M ix (A) w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g and heat u n t i l homogeneous.

Conditioning Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s : A CP 1052 (shampoo base)

Water Polyquaternium-11 (Gafquat 755)

B Hydroxypropy l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (Methocel E4M)

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

56w/w 31.50 66.84

1 .32 0 .34

Procedure: Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add

po lyqua te rn ium w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Heat ( A ) t o 8OC and s l o w l y add hydroxypropy l m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e w i t h f a s t e r s t i r r i n g . S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n u n t i l coo led t o room tempera ture . Formula PC 1057

Conditioning Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s : A CP 1052 (Shampoo base)

Water Polyquaternium-11 (Gafquat 755)

0 NaCl

%w/w 31.50 67.40

1 .00 0.10

Procedure: Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add

G l y c e r i n and Ar lamol E w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Heat ( A ) t o 80C and add g l y c o l s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n u n t i l coo led t o room tempera ture and s t i r N a C l . Formula CP 1062

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Shampoos 315

Conditioning Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Polyox WSR

Water

V i tam in E P r o t e i n NaCl Panthenol

B *Co lor *P rese rva t *Fragrance

*q. s . t hes

G-9600

Procedure:

%w/w 0 .02

71 .38 25.00

1 . o o 1 . o o 0.60 1 . o o

ve

i ngred i e n t s

Add t h e Polyox WSR t o t h e water u n t i l comp le te l y d i s s o l v e d w i t h hea t i f necessary . Add t h e rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s .

Conditioning Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s : A G-9600 (Shampoo base)

Water Polyquaternium-11 (Gafquat 7 5 5 )

* P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

B NaCl

%w/w 31 . 5 0 68.01

0 . 3 0 0 .19

Procedure: Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add p o l y -

quatern ium w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add s a l t and s t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Formula CP 1064

Professional Salon Type Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s : A CP 1052 (shampoo base)

Water Roche-DL-Panthenol Cosmetic Grade Calgon Merquat 550

B NaCl

%w/w 31 3 0 65.40

0 .50 2 . 5 0 0 . 1 0

Procedure: Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add

Panthenol and po lyquatern ium-7 w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add s a l t under f a s t e r s t i r r i n g t o b u i l d v i s c o s i t y . Formula PC 1058

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

316 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning Shampoo

I n n r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : De ion i zed Water SLES ( 3 mol ) D i sod i um EDTA

49.05 40.00

0 . 3 0

P a r t B: I nc romi de LR (Laurami de DEA) 5 . 5 0 Inc romide CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl Sarcos ine) 1 . o o Incromi ne Oxi de BA (Babassuami dopropy l ami ne Ox ide) 2 . 0 0 I n c r o d e t TD-7C ( T r i d e c e t h - 7 C a r b o x y l i c A c i d ) 0 . 1 5

P a r t C : H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000 (Hydro lyzed Whole Wheat P r o t e i n ) 0 . 5 0 Crodacel QS ( S t e a r y l d i m o n i um Hydroxypropy l Oxyethy l

C e l l u l ose) 0 . 5 0 Propy lene G1 yco l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l

Paraben (and) P ropy l Paraben* 1 . o o

Procedure:

Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g , and coo l ba tch t o 45C. Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t C i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . Con t i nue m i x i ng and coo l t o des i r e d f i 11 tempera tu re .

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 65-7OC.

pH: 5 . 5 + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 6 ,500 cps t -10% *Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-71

Cold Mix Shampoo w/Crosultaine C-50

I n n r e d i e n t s : SS P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water 5 9 . 8 5 Inc romide CA (Cocamide DEA) 2 . 0 0 P a r t 8: Teal s 25.00 Inc romide BAD (Babassuamide DEA) 1 .oo I n c r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) 8 . 0 0 Croquat L ( L a u r y l d i moni urn Hydroxypropy l Col 1 agen) 0 . 2 5 C i t r i c A c i d (10% So ln ) 2 .90 Propy lene G l y c o l (and) D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea (and) Methy l

Paraben (and) P ropy l Paraben* 1 . o o

Procedure:

P a r t 6 i n o r d e r w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add i n g r e d i e n t s o f

pH: 6 . 5 t - 0 . 5 *Germaben I 1 N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-78

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Shampoos 317

Conditioning Shampoo

I n n r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Water, Dei o n i zed Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-1) Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Standapol WAQ-Speci a1 ) Lauramide DEA (Monamid 716) Quaternium-22 (Ceraphy l 60) Quaternium-26 (Ceraphyl 65) C i t r i c A c i d ( F i n e Granu la r , 30% Aq. S o l u t i o n ) Sodium C h l o r i d e

Phase B: Sodium Hydroxymethy lg l yc ina te ( S u t t o c i d e A )

Phase C : Fragrance ( F l o r a l Spice-NP49)

Processed I n g r e d i e n t : D & C Green No. 5 (0.1% Aq. S o l . ) FD & C Green No. 5 (0.1% Aq. S o l . )

w 50.32 20 IO0 20.00 3 -00 2.00 2.00 1 .40 0.08

0 .40

0 .50

0.19 0 .11

Procedure: 1 . Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase A w i t h m ix ing , b e i n g c a r e f u l n o t

2 . Cool Phase A t o 40C. Add Phase B w i t h slow m i x i n g . 3. Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n Phase C w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . 4 . Sweep t o 25C.

SOURCE: ISP Van Dyk I n c . : Fo rmu la t i on #09843-85-1

t o a e r a t e ba tch , heat t o 75C.

Everyday Hair Shampoo

I n s r e d i e n t s : 1 A ) Genapol LRO l i q u i d

2 6 ) Water demine ra l i zed 3 Phenoni p 4 Euxyl K-200

5 C) Genapol AMG 6 S e r i c i n 7 Sodium C h l o r i d e 8 Fragrance: Ad r iano 0/235970 9 Genagen CAB 10 D) Sodiumhydroxyd s o l u t i o n 30%

% w / w 35,OO

39,90 0,50 0,30

8,OO 3,OO 3,OO 0,30

10,oo

Procedure:

i t e m 1 . Then add and d i s s o l v e i t ems 5-9 one a f t e r ano the r . A d j u s t t h e pH w i t h i t ems 10 t o pH 6-7.

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : A p p l i c a t i o n No. F Oll.A/05.94

D i s s o l v e i t e m 3 and 4 i n water ( 2 ) . D i s s o l v e phase 6 ) i n

31 8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Conditioning ShampooA g e n t l e , p e a r l i z e d , modera te ly v i s c o u s shampoo t o t h o r o u g h l y

c leanse and c o n d i t i o n h a i r . He lps m a i n t a i n i d e a l m o i s t u r e ba lance and leaves h a i r w i t h added s o f t n e s s , manageab i l i t y and body.

% by Weight P a r t A : De ion i zed Water 50 .28

Polyquaternium-10 (Ce lquat SC-240) 00 .25 Panthenol (d l -Pan theno l ) 00.20 Methylparaben 00.15 Cocami dopropy l Be ta ine ( C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30) 06.00 G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul EGMS) 01 . o o Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-2) 20.00

P a r t C : Quaternium-75 ( F i n q u a t CT) 01 . o o Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and)

Methy l i s o t h i a z o l i none (Kathon CG) 00.08 Fragrance (Givaudan #PSC 10,435/6) 00.30 C i t r i c A c i d 00 .04 Sodium C h l o r i d e 01.20

TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate (Ami s o f t CT-12) 16.00 P a r t B : Cocamide DEA (Cyclomide DC 212/S) 03 .50

Compounding Procedure: D ispe rse Ce lquat SC-240 i n t h e w a t e r . Heat t o 70C. Add t h e

r e s t o f P a r t A . M ix u n t i l comp le te l y u n i f o r m . S t a r t c o o l i n g . A t 60C, add Cyclomide DC 212/S. A t 40C, add P a r t C i n t h e g i v e n o r d e r .

C o l o r : O f f - w h i t e ( p e a r l i z e d ) pH: 5.50 V i s c o s i t y ( @ 25C): 5 . 0 0 0 cps (#4 s p i n d l e

Gentle Shampoo A c l e a r , modera te ly v i scous shampoo t h a t

l u b r i c o u s l a t h e r and s o f t n e s s t o t h e h a i r . f o rmu la i s ex t reme ly g e n t l e and p r o v i d e s ef w i t h o u t ha rsh s t r i p p i n g .

P a r t A : De ion ized Water Methylparaben Lauroamphoglycinate (and) T r i d e c e t h

(Mi r a n o l MHT)

@ 10 rpm

o r o v i des r i c h , anced eansi ng

he pH-ba e c t i v e c

% by Weiqht 45.55% 0 0 . 2 0

30.00 S u l f a t e

TEA-Cocoyl Glutamate (Amiso f t CT-12) 20.00 Sodi um Cocoyl G1 utamate ( A m i s o f t CS-11 ) 01 .oo

Sodium PCA (A j i dew N-50) 01 .oo

Fragrance ( N o v i l l e #84504) 00.20

PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e 01.50

P a r t B: M e t h y l c h l o r o i s o t h i a z a o l i none (and) M e t h y l i s o t h i a z o l i n o n e (Kathon CG) 00.05

C i t r i c A c i d 00.50 Compounding Procedure:

40C. Add P a r t B . Heat P a r t A t o 65C u n t i l comp le te l y homogeneous. Cool t o

C o l o r : L i g h t s t r a w - c l e a r pH: 5.65 V i s c o s i t y : 3,750 cps (#4 s p i n d l e '3 10 r p m )

SOURCE: A j inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Shampoos 319

Conditioning Shampoo

% bv Wei a h t Water 45.35 Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (2 Mole 26%) 20.00

Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e and D i sodi urn L a u r y l 20.00

T r i sod ium Lauroampho PG Ace ta te Phosphate C h l o r i d e 10.00

(Sipon ES2)

S u l f o s u c c i n a t e (Monaterge 1164)

(Phosphoter i c QL-38) Dimethicone (Dow Corn ing 200 F l u i d 200 CS) 2.50 G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (Kessco E thy lene G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ,

Armak) 1 .oo Cocamide MEA (Monamid CMA) 1 .oo Sodi um C h l o r i d e 0.15

Procedure:

Cool t o 40C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 .5 t o 6.0 w i t h 50% c i t r i c a c i d . Add f rag rance , c o l o r and p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .

Formul a t i on P r o p e r t i 8s : Phys ica l Appearance: White p e a r l e d l o t i o n V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 7,100 cps

Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 70C.

Formul a F-578

Mild Conditioning Shampoo

Water Mona te r i c CLV Phosphol i p i d EFA Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium Laure th ( 2 ) S u l f a t e

% bv Weiclht 34 .0

8 . 5 1 . 5

27.0 29.0

Procedure:

c i t r i c a c i d .

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i ea:

Blend i n o r d e r l i s t e d , a d j u s t pH down 5.5 t o 6.0 w i t h 50%

Appearance: C lea r L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: Approx imate ly 17,000 cps.

Formula F-644

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

320 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cream Shampoo

Wei n h t ,% Mackanate LO-Special (Disodium L a u r y l S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 88 .0 Mackol 16 ( C e t y l A l c o h o l ) 2 .0 B r i j 52 2.0 Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, F ragrance qs t o 100.0

S o l i d s , %: 40.0 pH (as i s ) : 5 .5 Appearance: P e a r l y Cream

Procedure : 1 . Add Mackol 16, B r i j 52 and water t o Mackanate LO-Special

2 , B1 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 t o 6.0 w i t h sodium hyd rox ide . 4. Cool t o 50 degrees C . and add Macks ta t DM and f r a g r a n c e . 5 . A d j u s t s o l i d t o 4O.Ot-1.0 a t t h i s p o i n t . 6. Cool and f i l l .

and hea t t o 70 degrees C .

Highly Pearlescent Shampoo

Sodium L a u r y l E the r S u l f a t e 60% Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA ( 1 : 1) Mackester SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) S t e a r i c A c i d Magnesium S u l f a t e ( 7 H 2 0 ) D i e thano l ami ne Macks ta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) De ion ized Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o

pH: 7 .5 -8 .0 V i s c o s i t y (cps 25 degrees C ) : 1000-2500

Weight ,% 20.0

2 .0 2 . 0 2 .0 6.0 0.67

qs 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Heat water t o 75 degrees C . and add Magnesium S u l f a t e . 2. D i s s o l v e comp le te l y then add o t h e r s u r f a c t a n t s and DEA t h e n

3. Keep tempera ture a t 70 degrees C . f o r 20 minu tes s t a r t

4 . A t 35 degrees C . add remainder o f i n g r e d i e n t s and coo l w h i l e

5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h DEA o r S u l f u r i c A c i d d i l u t e d s o l u t i o n s .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

add waxes.

cool i ng slow1 y . m i x i ng t o room tempera ture I

Shampoos 321

Emollient Shampoo

I n q r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

A r l a c e l 186

B Tween 20

C Water, d e i o n i zed Tensagex EOC-670

D Sodi um Cocoyl Sa rcos i n a t e Lau ry l Po lyg lucose

%&& 0 . 5 0 0 .50

4.00

71 . O O 6 .00

6 .00 8 . 0 0

E PEG 6000 D i s t e a r a t e 4 . 0 0 Procedure:

Mix (A) and add (B). Mix u n t i l c . lear and add (C) s l o w l y . M i x ( D ) and w i t h s l i g h t hea t and add t o (A,B,C). Heat t o 65C and add ( E ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

Moisturizing Shampoo

I n q r e d i e n t s : A CP 1052 (shampoo base)

Water G1 yce r i ne Ar lamol E , I C 1 (PPG-15 s t e a r y l e t h e r ) Jo joba O i l

%&& 31.50 66.50

0 .50 0 . 2 5 0 .25

i n an g l y c o u n t i 1 Formu

B G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e (Stepan-Kessco E t h y l e n e G l y c o l

Procedure: D i s t e a r a t e ) 1 . o o

Add water t o shampoo base w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Add G l y c e r - Ar lamol E w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n . Heat (A) t o 80C and add s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i ng . S t i r w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n

c o o l e d t o room tempera tu re . a CP 1059

Shampoo Concentrate

I n s r e d i e n t s : Ammoni um 1 a u r y l s u l f a t e (Stepano Water Cocamidopropyl b e t a i n e (Tegobeta NaCl C i t r i c a c i d Cocamide DEA (Monamid 15OADD) Procedure:

Heat i n g r e d i e n t s t o about 45C.

AM 1

ne L-7)

%w(W 75.59

0 . 3 0 17.78 0.47 0 .53 5 .33

S t i r each i n g r e d i e n t i n one a t a t i m e i n o r d e r u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . Formula CP 1052

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

322 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ethnic Hair Care Amphoteric Shampoo

(Cold Process) Clear

I n q r e d i e n t s : T e t r a s o d i um EDTA Water Sodi um L a u r y l Sul f a t e Cocamidopropyl Be ta ine (Tego Be ta ine F) D imeth icone Propy l PG Be ta ine ( A b i l B 9950) Quatern i um-80 (Ab i 1 Quat 3272) D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Lau ra te (Tagat L) C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) Fragrance Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (and) G l y c e r y l Lau ra te

Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y )

Procedure: 1 . M ix i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .

( A n t i l HS 60)

w 0 . 1

48.1 20 .0 25 .0

0 . 5 0 . 3 0 . 5 0.5

Q . S .

5 . 0 Q . S .

t o pH 6

Ethnic Hair CareAmphoteric Shampoo

(Cold Process) Pearled

I n g r e d i e n t s : Te t rasod ium EDTA 0 . 1 Water 45 .1 Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e 20.0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Tego B e t a i n e F) 25 .0 D imeth icone Propy l PG Be ta ine ( A b i l B 9950) 0 . 5 Quatern i urn-80 (Ab i 1 Quat 3272) 0 . 3 D imeth icone Copo lyo l ( A b i l B 88183) 0 . 5 PEG-30 G l y c e r y l Lau ra te (Tagat L ) 0 . 5 C i t r i c A c i d (25% S o l u t i o n ) t o pH 6 Fragrance Q . S . G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e (and) S tea re th -4 (Tego Pear l N 100) 3 . 0 Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (and) G l y c e r y l Lau ra te

( A n t i l HS 60) 5 .0 Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n t o a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y ) Q . S .

Procedure: 1 . M ix i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r . 2 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Shampoos 323

Everyday Family Shampoo

Inexpens ive shampoo u t i l i z i n g P a t i o n i c ISL f o r mi ldness and c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo designed t o be used by a l l f a m i l y members w i t h a l l h a i r t y p e s .

I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . Sodium C14-Cl6 O l e f i n S u l f o n a t e ( B i o t e r g e

AS-40) 37.50 C lean ing 2. P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3.00 M i l d n e s s 3 . R i tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 3 .50 V i scos i t y 4 . Kathon CG 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i ve 5. Fragrance-Baby Powder #165-848 0 . 3 0 Odor 6. Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) q . s . V i s c o s i t y 7 . Sodium Hydrox ide (20% S o l n . ) q . s pH Adjustment 8 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 55.67

Compounding Procedure:

R i t a p e g 150 OS i n a separa te vesse l t o 165F. Add t o t h e water w i t h good m i x i n g . Cool t o 120F and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v - a t i v e . Add Sodium C h l o r i d e u n t i l s a l t c u r v e response. A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 .

Heat t h e water and i t e m 1 t o 165F. Heat t h e Pat o n i c ISL and

Ref . No. 178-37C

Everyday Family Shampoo

A m i l d everyday fo rmula f o r a l l f a m i l y members.

I n s r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium Laureth-2 S u l f a t e 2 . R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA 3. R i t o x 35 (Laure th-23) 4 . G r i l l o c a m E-20 (Methy l G 5 . R i t a c e t - 2 0 (Ceteareth-20 6. Promoi s W-32 (Hydro1 yzed 7. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 8 . P r e s e r v a t i v e - Kathon CG

%w/w F u n c t i o n (Standapol ES-2) 25.00 C lean ing

8 .00 3 .00

uceth-20) 3 .00 2.00

C o l l agen) 0.20

0 .03 9. Fragrance - Nature Harves t 0 .30 10. D i s t i 1 led /De ion i zed Water 58.47

q . s .

L a t h e r Combi ng Mi ldness Body Body pH adjustment P r e s e r v a t i v e Odor ___---_

Compounding Procedure: Heat water t o 165F. Combine i tems 3,4 and 5 and heat u n t i l

c l e a r . Add t o t h e water w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Add i t e m 1 and mix . Cool t o 120F. Add i t e m 6 . Pre-mix i t e m 2 and f r a g r a n c e . Add t o m i x t u r e . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 .

Ref . N o . 118-85

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp , : Suggested Formula t ions

324 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Gel Shampoo

Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodium Laure th ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (25%) Mona te r i c CAB Phosphol i p i d PTC Monamid 1089

% by Weight 55 .00

1 . o o 35 .00

5 . 0 0 2 - 0 0 2 . 0 0

pH a d j u s t e d t o 5 .0 -6 .0

Procedure:

comp le te l y d i s s o l v e d b e f o r e add ing t h e nex t one. Add f rag rance , c o l o r i ng, o r p r e s e r v a t i v e as r e q u i r e d .

Add i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o rde r l i s t e d making su re each one i s

Mild Conditioning Shampoo

Water Monater i c CLV Phosphol i p i d EFA Sodi um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) Sodium Laure th ( 2 ) S u l f a t e

% by Weight 34 .0

8 . 5 1 .5

27.0 29.0

Procedure:

c i t r i c a c i d .

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

B lend i n o rde r l i s t e d , a d j u s t pH down 5 . 5 t o 6 . 0 w i t h 50%

Appearance: C1 ear L i q u i d V i s c o s i t y 13 25C: Approx imate ly 17,000 cps .

Formula F-644

Conditioning Shampoo

Water Sodium Laure th ( 2 ) S u l f a t e (26%) Monater i c COAB Phosphol i p i d EFA Sodium C h l o r i d e

% bv Weinht 31 .O 57.7

9 . 4 1 . 4 0 .5

Procedure:

c i t r i c a c i d . Add f rag rances , c o l o r , and p r ? s e r v a t i v e s as r e q u i r e d and package.

B lend i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t pH down t o 5 . 0 w i t h 50%

Formula F-621

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Shampoos 325

Hair ShampooDilutable Viscous Shampoo (For Customer Dilution 1:4)

Rhodaterge DCA Water Perfume, P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye

Viscous Consumer Shampoo

Rhodaterge DCA Water Perfume C o l o r , P r e s e r v a t i ve

Transparent Shampoo

Water M i r a c a r e ANK Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e

80 p a r t s 18 2

25 .0 p a r t s 74 .7

0 . 3 Q . S .

% by Weight 64 .5 3 3 . 0

Q . S . 2 . 5

B lend ing Procedure:

i e n t s i n o rde r l i s t e d . Charge water i n t o m i x i n g vesse l and b l e n d ba lance of i n g r e d -

Lotion Shampoo

Water M i raca re ANK M i rasheen 202 Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e

% by Weiaht 67.5 2 5 . 0

5 . 0 Q . S . 2 . 5

B lend ing Procedure:

i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d .

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Charge water i n t o m i x i n g vesse l and b l e n d ba lance of i n g r e d -

326 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Shampoo Clear

Ampholyt JB 130 Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 D i o n i l OC/K Lamepon S Panthenol V i tam in F Perfume Colour P r e s e r v a t i ve NaCl Water

Wt% 17.8 13.9 11.4 2 .0 2.0 0 . 2 0 . 1

qs qs qs qs

t o 100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 .5 -6 .5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Hair Shampoo

Mar l i n a t 242/28 Mar l i n a t CM 105 Ampholyt JB 130 D i o n i l OC/K Lamepon S Panthenol Hai r Complex Aquosom Camomi 1 e Speci a1 Co l lagen CLR Prese rva t i ve NaCl

W S 29.0 14.0 1 0 . 0

3 . 0 5 . 0 0 . 3 0 . 5 2 . 0 0 . 5

qs as

Water t o 1oo:o

P r e p a r a t i o n : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

u n t i l homogeneous. The p H i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

Shampoos 327

Hair Shampoos, Clear

B 40/5: Ze teso l NL Pur ton SFD Perfume Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e

B 40/30: Ze teso l 2056 Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

B40/31 : S u l f e t a l KT 400 Amphotensid GB 2009 Pur ton CFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

40.0% 1 . O % 0.5%

a . s . t o make 100.0%

30.0% 1.0%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

37.0% 10.0% 2.0%

q.s . t o make 100.0%

B40/50 : E x t r a k t 52 27.0% Amphotensid B 4 12.0% P u r t o n SFD 0.5% E x t r a c t s o f p l a n t s , aqueous (10%) 2.0% Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0%

Hair Shampoos, Pearlescent

0 41/1; Ze teso l 856 T P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 Perfume Water, sodium c h l o r i d e , p r e s e r v a t i v e

B 41/3: S u l f e t a l KT 400 P e r l g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75 Amphotensid B 4 Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

20.0% 4.0% 0.3%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

25.0% 8.0% 9 . 0 %

q.s . t o make 100.0%

B 41/25: Ze teso l 2056 28.0% Amphotensid 0 4 8.0% P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 4.0% Perfume 0.5% Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e q . s . t o make 100.0% SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: Suggested Formulas

328 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hair Shampoo with Conditioner

Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Ampholyt JB 130 Mar lamid DF 1218 Lamepon S M a r l a z i n KC 30/50 Pant henol V i t a m i n F Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t NaCl Water

ve

35 .0 10 .0

5 . 0 2 . 0 2 . 0 1 . 6 0 . 2 0 . 1

qs CIS qs qs

t o 1 0 0 . 0

P r e p a r a t i - n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5. The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Hair Shampoo with Conditioner for Everyday Use

Mar l i n a t 242/28 M a r l i n a t CM 105 M a r l i n a t S L 3/40 M a r l a z i n KC 30/50 Panthenol Perfume Co lou r P r e s e r v a t i ve NaC1 Water

wt% 46.0

7 . 0 3 . 8 1 . 6 0 . 2

qs q s qs CIS

t o 100.0

P repara t i on : The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5.5-6.5.

SOURCE: H u l s America I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n s f o r Cosmet ics: Formulas

Shampoos 329

Herbal Shampoo Pearlescent

Mar l i n a t 242/28 Ampholyt JB 130 Marlamid PG 20 Hai r Complex Aquosum S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Spec ia l Rosemary Spec ia l V i tam in F Horse-chestnut Spec ia l Perfume Col our P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water t o 1

wts/, 3 0 . 0

8 . 0 3 . 0 I . o 0 .5 0 . 3 0 . 2 I . 3

qs qs q s qs

100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Highly Concentrated Hair Shampoo

A . M a r l i n a t 2 4 2 / 2 8 M a r l i n a t SL 3/40 Ampholyt J B 130 S o f t i g e n 767 Water

6 . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e Co lour NaCl

P reDara t i on :

wts/, 54 .0 25 .0 1 6 . 0

3 . 0 t o 1 0 0 . 0

The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence, and s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f 8 . a r e added t o A . a t approx . 3 0 C . The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

330 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

High Foaming 2 in 1 Shampoo

Weiqht,% Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (28%) 6 5 . 0 Mackalene 426 ( I sos tea ramidopropy l Morpho l i ne L a c t a t e ) 6 . 0 Mackanate DC-30 (Disodium Dimeth icone Copolyo l S u l f o -

succ i n a t e ) E t h y l e n e G1 y c o l D i s t e a r a t e Mackamide PKM (Palmkernalamide MEA) Mackernium 007 (Po lyqua te rn ium 7 ) Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o

4 . 0 1 . o 2 . 0 0 . 4 Q . S .

1 0 0 . 0

Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e f i r s t f i v e components and hea t t o 70 degrees C .

2 . D i l u t e t h e Mackernium 007 i n t h e rema in ing water and s l o w l y

3 . B lend u n t i l p r o d u c t i s homogeneous and coo l t o 5 0 degrees C . 4 . Add Macks ta t DM, f r a g r a n c e and dye. 5 . A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d t o 5 .0 -6 .0 and c o o l .

w i t h c o n t i nuous m i x i ng . add t o t h e b l e n d I

Silicone Free 2:1 Shampoo

Weiaht ,% Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) 4 0 . 0 Mackanate LA (Diammonium L a u r y l S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20.0 Mackalene 426 ( I sos tea rami dop ropy l Morpho1 i ne L a c t a t e ) 6 . 0 Mackami de CMA (Cocami de MEA) 2 . 0 Mackernium 007 (Po lyqua te rn ium 7) 1 . 2 Mackester EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 1 . o

Paragon (DMDM Hydan to in (and) Methy l Paraben) q . s . Water, Fragrance, Dye q . s t o 1 0 0 . 0

Procedure: 1. Add t h e f i r s t seven components t o water and heat t o 70C. 2 . B1 end u n t i 1 compl e t e l y homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 50C. and add Paragon, f r a g r a n c e and dye. 4 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 .0 -6 .0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8

Shampoos 331

Light Conditioning Shampoo

L i g h t condi t i o n i ng shampoo based on h a i r s u b s t a n t i v i t y o f P a t i o n i c SSL (Sodium S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) . Promotes s t y l e r e t e n t i on.

I n s r e d i e n t s : w 1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Standapol WAQ-LC) 21.43 2 . Sodium Laure th-2 S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-2) 21.43 3 . P a t i o n i c SSL (Na S t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 .00

4. R i t a EGDS ( G l y c o l D i s t e a r a t e ) 5 . R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA)

6 . Fragrance - P e r t Type #189-724 7 . Kathon CG 8. C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 9 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . )

3.50 4.50

0.30 0.03 q.s. q . s .

1 0 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 45.81

Funct i on C1 eani ng C lean ing S t y l e ,

V i s c o s i t y L a t h e r

D e n s i t y Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e pH Adjustment V i s c o s i t y

Adjustment

C o n d i t i o n i n g

------ ---- Compounding Procedure:

Heat i t e m s 3 and 4 u n t i l me l ted . Add t o 165F water i t e m s 1 and 2. B lend i n pre-mix w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 140F Heat i t e m 5 and mix w i t h perfume. Add t h e s e and p r e s e r v a t i v e a t 120F.

Ref . No. 118-98

Light Conditioning Shampoo

A l i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo w i t h reduced s k i n and eye i r r i t a t i o n due t o t h e e f f e c t s o f G r i l l o t e n (Sucrose Cocoate) .

I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium Laureth-3 S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-3) 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35HP) 3. G r i l l o t e n LSE-65K (Sucrose Cocoate) 4. R i t a s y n t I P ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and o t h e r s ) 5 . Polyquta-400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 6. Kathon CG 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 8 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 9 . Fragrance l O . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

F u n c t i o n

8.00 M i 1 dness 2.80 N o n - I r r i t a t i o n 3.00 Condi t i o n i ng 1.00 Combing, S t y l e 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e q. s . V i scos i t y q .s .pH Adjustment

44.87 -------------

40.00 L a t h e r

0 .30 Odor

Compounding Procedure: T o t h e water a t 165F s l o w l y add i t e m 5. When s o l u b i l i z e d add

i t e m 3, which has been mel ted . Then add 1, 2 and 4 w i t h c o n s t a n t a g i t a t i o n a t 165F. Cool t o 120F and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 and v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r e d l e v e l .

SOURCE: R.1,T.A. C o r p . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Ref . No. 118-2

332 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Light Conditioning Shampoo

L i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo des igned t o l eave t h e h a i r w i t h a s o f t , c o n d i t i o n e d f e e l f rom e t h o x y l a t e d 1 ano l i n ( Laneto 5 0 ) . I n q r e d i e n t s : ?&’& F u n c t i o n 1 . Sodium Laure th-2 S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-2) 50.00 C lean ing 2 . R i t a s y n t I P ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e and Othe rs ) 4.50 C o n d i t i o n i n g ,

3 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e ) 3 .00 M i ldness ,

4 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 1 I 50 S o f t F e e l ,

5 . R i tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0.50 Opac i t y 6 . R i tapan DL (d l -Pan theno l ) 0 .50 C o n d i t i o n e r ,

7 . F ragrance - Squeeky Clean 165-047 0 .30 Odor 8 . Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P rese rva t i ve 9 . Sodium Hydrox ide (20% So ln . ) q.s.pH ad jus tment 10.Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) q . s . V i scos i t y

Compounding Procedure: To t h e water add 1-6, hear t o 165F. M i x and coo l t o 120F.

Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and f rag rance . Note pH shou ld be near 6 .0 . A d j u s t w i t h sodium hyd rox ide t o 7 .2 -7 .6 t o maximize d e p o s i t i o n o f t h e Laneto 50 i f d e s i r e d .

S o f t Feel

Combing

Shine

Body

Con t ro l 11 . D i s t i l l e d Water 39.67 ---------

Ref . No. 118-46

Light Conditioning Shampoo

A l i g h t c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo o p t i m i z e d f o r permed h a i r . Con ta ins m o i s t u r i z e r s and r e p a i r agents t o g i v e h a i r new l i f e . I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . Sodium Laure th-2 S u l f a t e (Standapol

ES-2) 53.60 C lean ing 2 . P a t i o n i c ISL (Na I s o s t e a r o y l

L a c t y l a t e ) 2.25 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n 3 . R i tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0 .75 V i s c o s i t y 4. R i t a EGMS ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e ) 2.00 O p a c i t y 5 . R i t a l a n DL (d l -Pan theno l ) 0 .25 Body, Fee l 6 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 0.75 Feel 7 . Propy lene G l y c o l 2 .50 Moi s t u r i z a t i o n 8 . F ragrance - Na tu re Harves t 165-050 0 .30 Odor 9 . Kathon CG 0 . 0 3 P r e s e r v a t i v e 10. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water 37.57 ------- Compounding Procedure:

Heat i t ems 2,3 and 4 u n t i l u n i f o r m . Separa te l y hea t water u n t i l 165F d i s p e r s e i t e m 5 and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m 1 f o l l o w e d by pre-mix . Add i t e m 7 t o ba tch . Pre-mix i t e m 6 and perfume and add t o b a t c h which has been c o o l e d t o 125F. Mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s . pH shou ld be near 5 .5 .

SOURCE: R.I.T.A. Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Ref . No. 118-94

Shampoos 333

Low pH, Protein Gel Shampoo

Ammonium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (30%) Wei g h t ,%

35 .0 Mackam 35HP (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 12.0

( N a t u r a l L i p i d P r o t e i n ) 2.0 Mackamide LLM (Lauramide DEA) 2.0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) q s L a c t i c A c i d q s Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f o u r components t o water and heat t o 60 degrees C . 2 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 0 w i t h l a c t i c a c i d . 3 . Cool and add remain ing components a t 40 degrees C .

Mackpro NLP (Quaternium-79 Hydro lyzed Animal P r o t e i n )

Mild Conditioning Shampoo

Weiqht,% Mackanate EL (Disodium L a u r e t h Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 10.0 Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ( V i a G l y c e r i d e ) 2 5 . 0 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) 10.0 Mackanate DC-30 (D i sodi um D i meth i cone Copolyo l

Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 1 . o Mackamide C (Cocamide DEA (1:l) 2 . 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 20 1 . o Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) q s Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

Procedure: 1 . Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o w a t e r . 2 . S t a r t m i x i n g a t room tempera ture u n t i l a l l components a r e

3 . B lend f r a g r a n c e w i t h P o l y s o r b a t e and add t o b a t c h . 4 . A d j u s t pH i f necessary w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 5. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e .

pH: 5 .5-6.7 V i s c o s i t y (cps 25 degrees C . ) : 600-1200

c l e a r l y d i s s o l v e d .

Economy Shampoo

Mackadet SBC-8 (Mi I d Blend) Sodium C h l o r i d e

Wei q h t . % 10.0

qs Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance q s t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add Mackadet SBC-8 t o water and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . 2 . Add Macks ta t DM and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y t o 3000-4000 cps w i t h

3 . Add dye and f r a g r a n c e and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

sodium c h l o r i d e .

334 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mild Shampoo

U l t r a m i l d shampoo f o r g e n t l e c l e a n i n easy t o r i n s e o u t and leaves min imal r e s

I n g r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (Standapol ES- 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35 HP) 3 . R i t a b a t e 20 ( P o l y s o r b a t e 20) 4. R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e )

5 . P r e s e r v a t i v e 6 . Fragrance-Baby Powder #165-848 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l u t i o n ) 8. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water

ComDoundina Procedure:

o f h a i r . E x c e p t i o n a l l y due.

m ) 30 .00

20.00 5.00 2.00

q . s .

q . s . 0.30

42.70

F u n c t i o n C1 eani ng M i ldness M i 1 dness L i g h t C o n d i t i o n i n g P r e s e r v a t i ve Odor V i s c o s i t y

To water add i tems 1 and 4. Heat t o 60C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add i t e m s 2 and 3 and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g . Cool t o 30C. Add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 5 . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e s o l u t i o n .

R e f . No . 118-71

Mild Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s : %Jqjy 1 . Sodium Laureth-2 S u l f a t e (Standapol ES-2) 46.50 2. P a t i o n i c I S L (Sodium I s o s t e a r o y l L a c t y l a t e 1 2 . 2 5 3 . R i t a p e g 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 0.75

4. C o n d i t i o n i n g Agent* 5 . Fragrance-Nature Harves t 165-050 6 . Kathon CG 7 . Sodium Hydrox ide (20% S o l n . ) 8 . Sodium Chor ide (25% S o l n . )

q . s . 0.30 0 .03

q . s . q . s .

9 , D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 50.17

Funct i on C lean ing Damage Repai r V i s c o s i t y , M a n a g e a b i l i t y C o n d i t i o n i n g Odor P r e s e r v a t i v e pH Adjustment V i s c o s i t y

C o n t r o l _---- * O p t i o n a l c o n d i t i o n i n g agent , such as j o j o b a o i l , pan theno l ,

p r o t e i n , e t c . c o u l d be added.

Compounding Procedure:

add a t 165F. Cool t o 120F and add perfume and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0 -6 .5 and v i s c o s i t y as d e s i r e d .

SOURCE: I 3 , I . T . A . Corp . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

To t h e water add i t e m 1 a t 165F. Pre-mix i tems 2 and 3 and

Ref . No. 118-102

Shampoos 335

Moisture Balance Shampoo with Cropeptide WT h i s fo rmu la g i v e s h a i r more body c o n t r o l i n a l l h u m i d i t i e s ,

an e f f e c t c r e a t e d by Cropep t ide W . E s p e c i a l l y recommended f o r d r y , damaged h a i r , Cropept ide W can reduce i t s b r i t t l e n e s s a t low RH and i t s l impness a t h i g h RH. The shampoo i s an easy- to - make and economical c o l d mix fo rmu la w i t h v e r y good c l e a n s i n g p r o p e r t i e s . I n g r e d i e n t s : % P a r t A : I nc romide LR (Lauramide DEA) 5 .00 Incronam 30 (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 5 .00 Sodi um Pareth-25 S u l f a t e 15.00 Cropep t ide W (Hydro lyzed Wheat P r o t e i n (and) Wheat

1 .oo Dei on i zed Water 73.70 P a r t B: Methyl paraben 0.20 P ropy l paraben 0.10 Procedure:

i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B i n d i v i d u a l l y w i t h good m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH w i t h a 10% c i t r i c s o l u t i o n .

01 i gosacchar i des)

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add t h e

pH: 5.0+-0.5 V i s c o s i t y : 7,500+-10% (RVT S p i n d l e #4, 20 rpm, 25C) N . A . T . C . Approved

Formula SH-82

Shampoo with TritisolA r i c h foaming shampoo w i t h wheat d e r i v e d T r i t i s o l added f o r

condi t i on i ns. Excel 1 en t wet combi ng c h a r a c t e r i s t i cs a r e produced by t h i s p e a r l e s c e n t p r o d u c t . I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A:

- %

SLES ( 3 mole) 16 .50 C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl H y d r o x y s u l t a i n e ) 7.00 Dei o n i zed Water 61.50 Incromectan t AMEA-100 (Acetamide MEA) 3.75 P a r t 8 : I nc romide CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl Sa rcos ine ) 3 .00 Inc romide ALD (Almondamide DEA) 1 .oo Incromate OLL (O l i vamidopropy l Dimethylamine L a c t a t e ) 1 .oo P a r t C : T r i t i s o l ( S o l u b l e Wheat P r o t e i n ) 2 .25 Crodapear l L i q u i d (Sodim Laure th S u l f a t e (and)

Hydroxye thy l Stearamide M I P A ) 3.00 Germaben I 1 1 .oo Procedure:

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 80-856. S low ly add B t o A w i t h m i x i n g and coo l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g . A d j u s t pH t o 6 .0 w i t h a 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n . Cool t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture .

pH: 6 O O + - 0 . 5 V i s c o s i t y : 2,500+-10% (@25C) N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-83-1

SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 60-65C.

336 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Protein Shampoos

0 40/65: S u l f e t a l KT 400 Amphotensid 0 4 Pur ton SFD H y d r o l a s t a n Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

B 40/148: P a r t A : S u l f e t a l CJOT 60 P u r t o n SFD Perfume Croquat L P a r t B: Polymer JR 400 Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

Vitamin Shampoos

B 40/29: Ze teso l 856 T Pur ton SFD S o l u v i t CLR Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

0 40/30: S u l f e t a l KT 400 Amphotensid B 4 Pur ton CFD V i tami n F, water -so l u b l e Water, perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

p r e s e r v a t i v e

30.0% 10.0%

1.5% 1 .O%

9 . s . t o make 100.0%

25.0% 1 .0% 0.5% 1 .O%

0.3% 9 , s . t o make 100.0%

Shampoo for Dry Hair

B 40 /131: Zeteso l 856 T Amphotensid B 4 Oxypon 288 Avocado o i l Perfume Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

30.0% 1.5% 3.0%

a . s . t o make 100.0%

40.0% 5.0% 1.5% 1.0%

q.s . t o make 100.0%

q . s .

22.0% 8.0% 4 . 0 % 0.5% 1 .O%

approx. 2 .0% t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschimmer & Schwarz GmbH & Co.: Sugeested Formula t ions

Shampoos 337

Salon Conditioning Shampoo

Opt imal c o n d i t i o n i n g l e v e l i s achieved.

I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (Standapol

ES-2) 2 . P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l

3 . R i tapeg 150 DS (PEG-150 D i s t e a r a t e ) 4. R i tapan DL ( d l - P a n t h e n o l ) 5 . Laneto 50 (PEG-75 L a n o l i n ) 6 . Po lyquta 400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 7 . Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 8 . Kathon CG 9 . Fragrance - N a t u r e Harves t 165-050 10. D i s t i 11 ed/Dei o n i zed Water

L a c t y l a t e )

F u n c t i o n

54.35 C1 eani ng

3 . 0 0 M i l d , Combing 1 .OO S t y l e , V i s c o s i t y 0 .25 Body 0.75 Combing 0 .50 Combing, S ty1 e 0.25 V i s c o s i t y 0 .03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.30 Odor

39.57 ------ Compounding Procedure:

i t e m 3 i n i t e m 2. Add t o 165F main b a t c h and mix u n t i l un i fo rm. Add i t e m s 5 and 1 i n o r d e r and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 120F. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e and perfume. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h NaC1.

D isperse i t e m s 6 and 4 i n o r d e r i n water a t 165F. P r e - d i s s o l v e

Ref . No. 118-28

Salon Conditioning Shampoo

A m i l d s a l o n c o n d i t i o n i n g shampoo w i t h ex t remely r i c h l a t h e r and a l o e and panthenol t o p e n e t r a t e t h e h a i r s h a f t t o produce hea l t h y h a i r .

I n s r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Standapol

2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam

3. R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA) 4. P a t i o n i c I S L (Na I s o s t e a r o y l

5 . R i t a l o e 200M ( A l o e Vera G e l ) 6. R i t a p a n DL (d l -Pantheno l ) 7. Kathon CG 8 . Fragrance - Nature Harves t 9. Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) 1 0 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% So ln . ) 11 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

WAQ LC)

35 HP)

L a c t y l a t e )

F u n c t i o n

25.00 C1 eani ng

10.00 L a t h e r , M i l d 5.00 L a t h e r , Oensi t y

1 - 7 5 M i l d n e s s 0.15 Condi t i o n i ng 0.50 H e a l t h 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0 .30 Odor

q . s . V i s c o s i t y C o n t r o l q .s .pH Adjustment

57.27 ----- Compounding Procedure:

1 , 2 and 4, add h e a t t o 120F. Add t o water m i x t u r e w i t h u n i f o r m m i x i n g . Pre-mix R i tamide C and perfume and add t o b a t c h . Add p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH and v i s c o s i t y as needed.

SOURCE: R . I .T .A . Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

To t h e water add i t e m s 5 and 6, h e a t t o 120F. Combine i t e m s

Ref . No. 118-63

338 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Salon Style Shampoo

Salon c o n d i t i o n i n g i s achieved t h r o u g h balanced b l e n d o f s u r f a c t a n t s , po lymers and p r o t e i n s which g i v e h a i r g r e a t combing and s h i n e .

I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1. Ammoni um L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Stepanol

AM 1 45.00 C1 eani ng 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mackam 35HP) 5.50 Mi ldness 3. Cocami dopropyl Ami ne Oxide (Mazox

CAPA) 4 . R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA) 5. Po lyquta 400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 6 . Hydroxypropyl M e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

(Methocel 40-100) 7 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e @ 99% 8 . Tet rasodium EDTA 9 . Methy lparaben 10.Germal l 115 11 .Promois WK (Hydro lyzed K e r a t i n ) 12.Fragrance-Nature Harves t #165-050 1 3 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) 1 4 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

Cornpounding Procedure:

5.50 La ther 1.00 La ther Densi 0.10 C o n d i t i o n i n g

0.20 Body, V iscos 0.10 pH 0 .20 C l a r i t y 0.20 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0 .20 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.40 Shine, Body 0.30 Odor 4 , s . pH C o n t r o l

41.30 -----

Y

To t h e water add i t e m s 5 and 6 and n e u t r a l i z e w i t h TEA. Add i tems 1,2,8,9,10 and 11 i n o r d e r . Pre-mix i t e m s 3,4 and f r a g r a n c e and add t o mix . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . A d j u s t pH t o 6 . 0 and v i s c o s i t y .

Ref . No. 118-111

2 in 1 High Conditioning Shampoo

High c o n d i t i o n i n g 2 i n 1 t y p e shampoo w i t h e x c e l l e n t wet combi ng /dry combing.

I n q r e d i e n t s : F u n c t i o n 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 3 - S u l f a t e

(Standapol ES-3) 30.00 C1 eani ng 2. R i tamide C (Cocamide DEA) 3 .75 L a t h e r 3. Po lyquta 400 (Polyquatern ium-10) 1.00 C o n d i t i o n i n g 4. Fragrance 0.30 Odor 5 . Kathon CG 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e

Compounding Procedure:

i t e m s 1 and 2 i n o r d e r and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Cool t o 120F and add f r a g r a n c e and p r e s e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH w i t h C i t r i c A c i d and v i s c o s i t y w i t h Sodium C h l o r i d e t o d e s i r e d ranges.

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

6. D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 64.92 ----

TO t h e water a t 165F add i t e m s 3 and mix u n t i l c l e a r . Add

R e f . No. 115-2058

Shampoos 339

Shampoo for Permed Hair

Wei g h t .% Mackanate OP (Disodium Oleamido M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20 .0 Mackanate CP (Di sodi um Cocami do M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 12 .0 Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (30%) 15.0 Mackamine WGO (Wheat Germamidopropylamine Oxide) 4 .0 Mackalene 716 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Dimethylami ne

L a c t a t e ) 1 . o Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs C i t r i c A c i d t o pH=6.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o 2000 cps Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1. Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o water and heat t o 40 degrees C . 2 . B lend u n t i l c l e a r and a d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 3 . Add remain ing components and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium

c h l o r i d e .

Pearlescent Shampoo Concentrate

TEA L a u r y l S u l f a t e Weight ,%

50.0 Mackami de LLM (Laurami de DEA) 30 .0 Mackester SP ( G l y c o l S t e a r a t e M o d i f i e d ) 5 . 0 Propy l ene G1 y c o l 5 .0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 1 . 0 Phosphor ic A c i d t o pH = 7 . 5 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Fragrance, Dye qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add f i r s t f i v e components t o water and heat t o 70 degrees C. 2 . B1 end u n t i 1 homogeneous. 3 . Cool t o 40 degrees C . and add Macks ta t DM, dye and f r a g r a n c e . Remarks: T h i s p r o d u c t can be d i l u t e d one p i n t t o a g a l l o n

w i t h w a t e r . The v i s c o s i t y can be c o n t r o l l e d by r e g u l a t - i n g t h e propy lene g l y c o l .

Neutralizer Shampoo

Weipht,% Mackanate OM (Disodium Oleamido MEA S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 30.0 Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) 2 0 . 0 Mackami ne CAO (Cocami dopropyl ami ne Ox ide) 6 . 0 Mackamine WGO (Wheat Germamidopropylamine Oxide) 2 . 0 Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0

S o l i d s , %: 19.5 pH: 5 . 3 V i s c o s i t y (cps, 25 deg C . ) : 1500

Procedure: Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o water and b l e n d u n t i l c l e a r . A d j u s t pH

t o 5 .0 -5 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . Add dye and f r a g r a n c e .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Personal Care Formulary

340 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sport Shampoo

A . M a r l i n a t OFN 30 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Amphol y t J B 130 O i o n i l OC/K A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water

B . Avocado Spec ia l Perfume Co lour P rese rva t i ve

w e i 35 .0 11 . o 10.0

2 . 5 q s

t o 1 0 0 . 0

1 . 5 qs q s qs

P r e p a r a t i o n :

and s t i r r e d u n t i l homogeneous. The i n g r e d i e n t s o f 9. a r e added t o A . a t approx. 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence, warmed

Herbal Shampoo Against Greasy Hair

A . M a r l i n a t 242128 M a r l i n a t CM 105 Amphol y t JB 130 Mar lamid M 1218 Water

B . Avocado Spec ia l Camomi 1 e Speci a1 Perfume Co lour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl

wt% 2 8 . 0 1 8 . 0 13 .0

3 . 0 t o 100.0

1 . o 0 . 5

qs qs qs qs

P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e added t o g e t h e r i n sequence and

s t i r r e d w h i l e warm u n t i l homogeneous. The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f B . a r e added t o A, a t approx . 30C. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 6 .

SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

Shampoos 341

Two in One Shampoo I n g r e d i e n t s : PC 9043, S i l i c o n e emuls ion

w 1 0 . 0 0

Shampoo concen t ra te 90.00 Procedure:

Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9049

Two in One Shampoo I n g r e d i e n t s : PC 9044, S i l i c o n e emuls ion 1 0 . 0 0 Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90.00 Procedure:

t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9050

Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor

Two in One Shampoo I n g r e d i e n t s : o/ow/w PC 9045, s i l i c o n e emuls ion 1 0 . 0 0 Shampoo concen t ra te 90.00 Procedure:

t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9051

Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor

Two in One Shampoo I nared i en t s : PC 9046, s i l i c o n e emuls ion Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e

o m 1 0 . 0 0 90.00

Procedure:

t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9052

Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor

Two in One Shampoo I n a r e d i e n t s : PC 9047, s i l i c o n e emuls ion

%w/w 1 0 . 0 0

Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90 .00 Procedure:

t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9053

Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor

Two in One Shampoo I n a r e d i e n t s : PC 9048, s i l i c o n e emuls ion

w 1 0 . 0 0

Shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e 90 .00 Procedure:

t y p e a g i t a t i o n . Formula PC 9054

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat ( A ) t o approx . 65C. Mix w i t h v e r y s l o w l y w i t h anchor

342 Cosmetic and Toiletiy Formulations

Two in One Shampoo

True 2 i n 1 fo rmula w i t h e x c e p t i o n a l wet and d r y combing.

I n q r e d i e n t s : &V&/ F u n c t i o n 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 - S u l f a t e (Standapol

ES-2 30.00 C lean ing 2 . Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mi r a t a i n e

BET C-30) 3 .00 La ther 3 . PEG-120 Methy l Glucose D i o l e a t e 3.00 Mi ldness , V i s c o s i t y 4 . Dow Corn ing 1401 F l u i d 2.60 Combing 5. R i t a m i d e C (Cocamide DEA) 4 .00 La ther D e n s i t y 6 . Fragrance 0.20 Odor 7 . P r e s e r v a t i v e - Kathon CG 0 I 03 P r e s e r v a t i o n 8 . C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) q . s . pH Adjustment 9 . D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water 57-17 ---- --- Compounding Procedure:

5 and add t o mix a t 60C. S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add f r a g r a n c e , p r e s e r v a t i v e and a d j u s t pH t o 6.0-6.5.

To t h e water a t 60C add i tems 1,2 and 3. Premix i tems 4 and

Ref . No. 116-153

Two in One Shampoo

Unique combina t ion o f e x c e l l e n t c o m b a b i l i t y , o v e r a l l cond- i t i o n i n g and mi ldness .

I n a r e d i e n t s : 1 . Sodium L a u r e t h - 2 - S u l f a t e (Standapol

2 . G r i l l o t e n LSE-65K (Sucrose Cocoate) ES-2)

3.

4. 5 . 6. 7 . 8. 9. 10.

Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Mi r a t a i ne BET C-30)

Dimeth icone Copo lyo l (Abi 1 888183) Quaternium 80 ( A b i l Quat 3272) Fragrance - Squeeky Clean Kathon CG C i t r i c A c i d (50% S o l n . ) Sodium C h l o r i d e (25% S o l n . ) D i s t i l l e d / D e i o n i z e d Water

F u n c t i o n

1.50 Mi ldness 45.00 C lean ing , La ther

10.00 L a t h e r , M i ldness 1.95 Combing 0.65 C o n d i t i o n i n g 0 .30 Odor 0.03 P r e s e r v a t i v e 0.05 pH Adjustment q . s . V i s c o s i t y C o n t r o l

40.52 ---- Compounding Procedure:

t h e i tems 1 and 2 w h i l e h e a t i n g g e n t l y and add perfume and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Now mix b o t h phases t o g e t h e r . A d j u s t pH and v i scos i t y .

SOURCE: R . I . T . A . Corp.: Suggested Formula t ions

To t h e water a t 120F add i t e m s 4,5 and 3 i n o r d e r . Pre-mix

Ref . No. 119-4

Shampoos 343

2-In-1 Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Dimeth icone Copo lyo l Dow Corn ing 92-5000

Dow Corn ing 345 f l u i d Carbopol 1382 Water

%w/w 0 .25 0 . 2 5 0.10

66.13

B CP 1052 (shampoo base) 31 . 5 0

C Stepan-Kessco E t h y l e n e g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e 1 . o o

D NaCl 0.77

Procedure: B lend i n g r e d i e n t s i n (A) t o g e t h e r w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n

a t 35C. Add shampoo base t o (A) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Heat m i x t u r e t o 80C and add g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g i n s a l t a t 50C o r be low. Formula CP 1061

Two-in-One Shampoo

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Water

Dow Corn ing (12-5200 Dow Corn ing 345 f l u i d BF Goodr ich Carbopol 1382

B Stepan-Kessco E thy lene g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e

C G-9600 1053 (Shampoo base)

D NaCl * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w 67.36

0 . 1 0 0 .20 0 . 0 8

0.50

31 .50

0.26

Procedure:

35C. Add shampoo base t o (A) w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n . Heat m i x t u r e t o 80C and add g l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e w i t h f a s t s t i r r i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l w i t h medium a g i t a t i o n , s t i r r i n g i n s a l t a t 50C or b e l ow. Formula CP 1063

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

B lend i n g r e d i e n t s i n (A) t o g e t h e r w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n a t

344 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Three in One Shampoo

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a c l e a r r i c h shampoo which c leans ; c o n d i t i o n s and improves c o m b a b i l i t y w i t h Lexquat AMG-BEO; and s t y 1 es w i t h PVP/VA copolymer .

A . Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Standapol WAQ) 15.00 TEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e (Standapol T ) 10.00 Cocami dopropy l B e t a i ne (Lexa i ne C) 10.00 Cocami de DEA (Standami d KD) 3 .00 Potassium Cocoyl -Hydro lyzed Co l lagen (Maypon 4C) 3.00

B. De ion ized Water Propy lene G l y c o l USP Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) Propy lparaben (Lexgard P) Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS-40) Tet rasodium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)

42.10 3 .00 0 . 2 0 0.10 0 . 1 0 0 .10

C . Behenami dopropy l PG D i moni um Chl o r i de (Lexquat AMG-BEO) 7 .00

D. PVP/VA copolymer ( L u v i s k o l VA 73-W) 6 .00

E . Fragrance Co lor

0 . 2 0 QS

F. C i t r i c A c i d NF QS

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase " A " . Heat t o 75C w i t h c o n t i n -

uous s low o s c i l l a t i o n . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r . 2 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase "B'l. Heat t o 75-8OC. Mix r a p i d l y

t o d i s s o l v e parabens. 3 . When phases "A&B1' a r e b o t h homogenoeus and a r e 75C, add

Phase "A" t o "B". A d j u s t m i x i n g speed t o a v o i d foaming and a i r ent rapment .

4 . Combine phase "C" and mix u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . Add phase "C" t o 'IAB". M a i n t a i n 75C. 6 . When phase "ABC" i s homogenoeus add 'ID1' t o "ABC". M i x u n t i l

7 . When phase "ABCD" i s homogeneous b e g i n c o o l i n g t o ambient

8 . A t 30C add phase '@E1' t o "ABCDI'. Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 9 . When b a t c h reaches ambient tempera ture , a d j u s t pH t o 7 w i t h

1 0 . A d j u s t f o r water l o s s .

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co. : F o r m u l a t i o n SP-116

homogeneous.

tempera ture .

phase "F" I

Shampoos 345

Three in One Shampoo

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a r i c h c l e a r shampoo which c l e a n s ; p r o v i d e s c o n d i t i o n i n g and improved c o m b a b i l i t y w i t h Lexquat AMG-BE0 and q u a t e r n i z e d c h i t o s a n ; and s t y l e s w i t h PVP/VA copolymer.

A .

B .

C .

D .

E .

F.

Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (Standapol WAQ) TEA-Lauryl S u l f a t e (Standapol T) Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (Lexa i ne C) Cocami de DEA (Standami d KD) Potassium Cocoyl -Hydro lyzed Co l lagen (Maypon 4C)

Dei on i zed Water Propy lene G l y c o l USP Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) Propylparaben (Lexgard P) Benzophenone-4 ( U v i n u l MS-40) Tet rasodium EDTA (Hamp-ene Na4)

Behenamidopropyl PG Dimonium C h l o r i d e (Lexquat

Polyquaternium-29 (Kytamer KC)

PVP/VA co-polymer ( L u v i s k o l VA 73-W)

Fragrance C o l o r

C i t r i c A c i d NF

AMG-BEO)

w 15.00 10.00 10.00

3 . 0 0 3.00

42.10 3 .00 0.20 0 . 1 0 0 .10 0.10

7 .00 0.20

6.00

0 . 2 0 QS

QS

Procedure: 1 . Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase " A " . Heat t o 75C w i t h cont inuous

2. Combine i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase "B" . Heat t o 75-8OC. Mix r a p i d l y

3 . When phases "A&B" a r e b o t h homogeneous and a r e 75C, add Phase

s low o s c i l l a t i o n . Do n o t e n t r a p a i r .

t o d i s s o l v e parabens.

"At1 t o 'lB". A d j u s t m i x i n g speed t o a v o i d foaming and a i r ent rapment .

4. Combine phase "C" and mix u n t i l homogeneous. 5 . Add phase "C" t o "AB". M a i n t a i n 75C. 6. When phase tlABC" i s homogeneous add phase "D" t o "ABC". M ix

7. When phase "ABCDtf i s homogeneous b e g i n c o o l i n g t o ambient

8 . A t 30C add phase "El1 t o l'ABCD". Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g . 9 . When b a t c h reaches ambient tempera ture , a d j u s t pH t o 7 w i t h

1 0 . A d j u s t f o r water loss.

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n SP-115

u n t i l homogeneous.

tempera ture .

phase "F" .

346 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Wheat & Sesame ShampooL? H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA i s t h e key i n g r e d i e n t i n t h i s shampoo,

which a c q u i r e s i t s un ique q u a l i t y f rom a b l e n d o f wheat d e r i v e d m a t e r i a l s . T h i s shampoo has e x c e l l e n t foam w i t h a r i c h , creamy l a t h e r and leaves t h e h a i r f e e l i n g r e f r e s h i n g l y c l e a n . Hydro- t r i t i c u m WAA, a power fu l humectant, h e l p s t o r e t a i n m o i s t u r e t h a t i s v i t a l t o mai n t a i n i ng hea l t h y h a i r . Inc romec tan t AMEA-100 and Incromate S E L improve wet combing and d e t a n g l i n g .

P a r t A : I nc romi ne Oxide WG (Wheat Germarni dopropy l ami ne Ox ide) 3 .00 Incronam WG-30 (Wheat Germamidopropyl Be ta ine ) 3 . 0 0 Inc romec tan t AMEA-100 (Acetamide MEA) 5 . 0 0 S L E S ( 3 mol EO) 40.00 D i sod i um EDTA 0 .10 Dei o n i zed Water 41 -4.5 P a r t B: Inc romi de WGD (Wheat Germami de DEA) 2 . 0 0 Incromate SEL (Sesami dopropy l D imethy l ami ne L a c t a t e ) 1 . o o BHT 0 .10 P a r t C : H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA (Wheat Amino Ac ids ) 3 .00 P a r t D : Methylparaben 0 .25 Propy lparaben 0 . 1 0 Propylene G l y c o l 1 - 0 0 C i t r i c A c i d (10% s o l n ) t o pH 5 . 4

Combine P a r t A and hea t t o 60C. Combine P a r t B and heat t o 60C, m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Cont inue m i x i n g and coo l t o 45C. Add P a r t C , f o l l o w e d by P a r t D , m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . A d j u s t p H w i t h c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .

I n a r e d i e n t s : - %

N . A . T . C . Approved Formula SH-84 Detangling Shampoo

I n a r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : SLES ( 3 m o l . ) C r o s u l t a i n e C-50 (Cocamidopropyl Dei o n i zed Water Inc romec tan t AMEA-100 (Acetamide P a r t B:

Hydroxysul t a i ne)

MEA)

Inc romide CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl Sarcos ine) Incromate ISML ( I sos tea ramidopropy l Morpho l i ne L a c t a t e ) P a r t C : Crodacel QM (Cocodimonium Hydroxypropy C e l l u l o s e ) Crodapear l L i q u i d (Sodium Laure th S u l f a t e (and)

Propy lene G1 y c o l (and) D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea (and) Me thy l Hydroxyethy l Stearamide-MIPA)

Paraben (and) P ropy l Paraben*

- %

20 .0 7 . 0

58 .0 2 . 0

3 . 0 4 . 0

2 . 0

3 . 0

1 . o Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 60-65C.

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 60-65C. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and coo l t o 40C. Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g and coo l t o d e s i r e d f i l l tempera ture . A d j u s t pH w i t h 10% c i t r i c a c i d s o l u t i o n .

SOURCE: C r o d a I n c . : S u g g e s t e d Formulas Formula SH-92 *Germaben I 1

Shampoos 347

Wheat Germ Conditioning ShampooWei u h t , %

Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (30%) 24 .0 Mackanate OP (Disodium Oleamido M I P A S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 2 0 . 0

Mackanate WGD (Disodium Wheatgermamido PEG-2 8 .0 Sul f o s u c c i n a t e )

Mackam WGB (Wheat Germamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) 5 . 0 C i t r i c A c i d t o pH 5 .5 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o v i s c o s i t y = 20000 cps Mackstat DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) qs Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add s u r f a c t a n t s t o water and heat t o 40 degrees C . 2 . A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 . 3 . Add remain ing components and a d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium

c h l o r i d e .

No-Sting 2:l Shampoo

Mackam 2C Weisht,%

3 5 . 0 Sodium Laure th-1 S u l f a t e 20 .0 Mackanate DC-30 4.0 Mackernium 007 3 . 0 Mackester SP 2.0 Mackstat DM q . s . C i t r i c A c i d q . s . t o pH 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 Water, Dye, Fragrance q . s . t o 100.0 Procedure: 1 . Add Mackam 2C, Sodium Laureth-1 S u l f a t e , Mackanate DC-30 and

Mackester SP t o water . 2 . Heat t o 70C t o b l e n d u n t i l homogenous. 3 . S l o w l y add Mackernium 007. 4. Cool t o 50C and add Mackstat DM. 5 . Add f r a g r a n c e , dye and a d j u s t pH t o 7 . 0 - 7 . 5 .

Stripper Shampoo Weight,%

21.5 5 . 4 4 .0 5 . 5 8 .0

100.0

Dodecylbenzene S u l f o n i c A c i d C a u s t i c Soda (50%) Sodium L a u r e t h S u l f a t e (60%) Mackam 35 (Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e ) Sodium Xylene S u l f o n a t e (40%) Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o

S o l i d s , %: 30+-1.0

V i s c o s i t y (cps, 25C): 250-350 Cloud P o i n t : 5C

pH: 6.5-7.0

Procedure: 1 . Add c a u s t i c soda t o water and a d j u s t pH t o 7.0-8.0 w i t h DDBSA. 2 . Add remain ing components and a d j u s t pH t o 6 .5 -7 .0 w i t h

3 . If necessary, lower v i s c o s i t y w i t h SXS, o r r a i s e v i s c o s i t y

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested Formula t ions

c i t r i c a c i d .

w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e .

Section IX Shaving Products

348

Shaving Products 349

Aerosol Shaving Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed

S t r i p p e d coconut f a t t y a c i d Sorbo

B Water, d e i o n i z e d A1 l a n t o i n

C Potassium hyd rox ide Water

D *Perfume

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

6 .30 2 . 7 0

10.00

50.00 0 .20

1 .70 29.10

Procedure: Heat (A ) t o 75C. Add ( B ) and rehea t t o 75C. Add (C) s l o w l y ,

w i t h a g i t a t i o n . M ix f o r 30 minu tes , m a i n t a i n i n g tempera ture a t 75C. Cool s l o w l y w h i l e a g i t a t i n g s l o w l y . Add (D) a t 35C. Prepare ae roso l shav ing cream cans and p ressu re f i l l each can w i t h 3% t o 4% isobutane-propane, 40 p s i g t o 46 p s i g .

Nonionic Aerosol Foam

I n q r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B r i j 721s

B Water, d e i o n i zed S o r b i c a c i d

C Fougere Lavender, F r i t z s c h e , D&O

-PRESSURIZE-

D Above c o n c e n t r a t e (160.0g) D i f l u o r o ethane, Dymel 152A ( 8 m ls )

96w/w 4 . 3 0 2.20

93.25 0 . 1 7

0 . 0 8

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n and add (C) a t 35C. A d j u s t pH t o 5 . 5 w i t h d i l u t e NaOH. Add water t o compensate f o r l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Cont inue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s low enough t o pou r .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 7%. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

350 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After Shave Balm D r y F l o PC i s a h i g h l y water r e s i s t a n t s t a r c h , p r o v i d e s a

s i l k y smooth e l e g a n t f e e l , and i s t a l c f r e e . I n q r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : E s t o l 1550 4.00 C u t i n a CP 2.50 Lonzest 143-S 3.00 I v a r l a n 3230 1.50 Phase B: Dei o n i zed Water 61.60 A l c o l e c BS 1 .oo Carbopol 941 (2% Aq. S o l n . ) 10.00 NaOH (25%) 0.40 Methy lparaben 0.15 Propylparaben 0 .15 Phase C : G l y c e r i n (99.5%) 7 . 0 0 Dry-F lo PC 8.00 Phenoxyethanol 0 . 2 0 Phase D: Fragrance 0.50 Procedure:

Combine Phase B, heat t o 80C. Combine Phase A, heat t o 80C. A t 80C add A t o 9, mix f o r 15 minu tes . Cool t o 40C. Phase C; s l u r r y Dry-F lo PC i n t o G l y c e r i n , add t o A/B a t 40C. Add Phenoxy e t h a n o l , mix w e l l . Add Phase D. M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Formula 8062-16

Shave Gel The p r o d u c t w i l l r a i s e t h e h a i r o f f t h e f a c e t o make f o r

a c l o s e r c u t w i t h o u t i r r i t a t i o n . The Hexanedio l Behenyl Beeswax s t a b i l i z e s t h e s i l i c o n e o i l t o l e a v e t h e s k i n s i l k y and smooth. Phase A : Hexanedio l Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 3.0% Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 2.0% Permethyl 104A (Permethy l ) 3.0% Polybutene (Amoco) 4.0% I s o s t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 0.6% P a l m i t i c A c i d ( P r o c t o r & Gamble) 1.4% Phase B: P u r i f i e d Water 63.9% T r i e thano l ami ne (Dow) 0.8% Carbopol 940 2% d i s p e r s i o n (B.F. Goodr ich) 12.0% A l o e Vera Gel ( A c t i v e Organ ics) 0.8% Phase C: S i l i c o n e 345 (Dow) 6.7% A1 1 a n t o i n ( S u t t o n ) 0.8% Germaben I 1 ( S u t t o n ) , 1.0%

Heat and mix Phase A and add t o a heated and mixed Phase 9. Cool t o 50C and add phase C, one a t a t i m e . Cool t o 40C and pour i n t o c o n t a i n e r s .

o r a t e d i n t o t h i s t y p e o f fo rmula , w i t h o n l y min imal changes i n s t a b i l i t y and per formance. SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Fragrances, a c t i v e s and o t h e r s i l i c o n e o i l s can be i n c o r p -

Shaving Products 351

After Shave Conditioner

T h i s mu l t i - phase emuls ion (o/w/a) i s v e r y s t a b l e and has wonder fu l s k i n f e e l . Besides t h e p r e v i o u s l y ment ioned advantages. Cera B e l l i n a produces a p r o d u c t w i t h good v i s c o s i t y c h a r a c t e r - i s t i c s i n a p r o d u c t o f l ow s o l i d s c o n t e n t .

O i l Phase: L i g h t M i n e r a l O i 1, Carna t ion (Wi t c o ) Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos te r Keunen) G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) Deodor ized Orange Wax V i tam in E (Van Dyk) P ropy l Paraben ( S u t t o n )

Water Phase: Water ( d i s t i l l e d ) Bu ty lene G l y c o l (Arco) G l y c e r o l (Unichema) Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) T r i e thano l ami ne (Dow)

A lcoho l Phase: SDA-30 (Quantum) Benzocaine ( N a t i o n a l S t a r c h ) Carboxy Me thy l C e l l u l o s e (Hercu les )

Procedure:

7.5% 4 .0% 3 . 3 % 2 . 0 % 0 I 5% 0 . 1 %

64.0% 5.0% 1 .O% 0.3% 1 .O%

1 0 . 0 % 1 .O% 0.3%

Combine components o f t h e wax phase i n a v e s s e l , m e l t and mix m a i n t a i n i n g a tempera tu re o f 75C. Heat t h e wa te r phase t o 75C i n a separa te vessel making su re t h e components a r e a l l d i s s o l v e d . S l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e wa te r phase under low shear . Cool t o 35 t o 40C and t h e n add t h e a l c o h o l phase under low shear . T h i s w i l l ensure t h a t t h e f r i c t i o n w i l l n o t i n c r e a s e t h e tempera tu re which w i l l evaporate t h e a l c o h o l .

A d a p t a t i o n o f f o r m u l a and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t : A l t e r a t i o n s i n component c o n c e n t r a t i o n s can be achieved by

t h e a d d i t i o n o f t h e secondary e m u l s i f y i n g agen ts . T h i s w e l l a l l o w f o r a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s t o be added a t t h e same t i m e as m a i n t a i n - i n g t h e s t a b i l i t y and r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s .

SOURCE: Kos te r Keunen, I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

352 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Alcohol Free After Shave Lotion

Ingredients: Part I: Water Phenyl Dimethicone Carbomer 940 Triethanolamine (99%) Part 11: Water Phospholipid SV Mentho 1

% by Weight

66.00 1.50 0.30 0.60

30.00 1.00 0.10

Procedure:

water. After the Carbomer 940 is dissolved, add triethanolamine. In a separate container blend and heat the water, menthol and Phospholipid SV to 75-8OC. When dissolved, blend Part I1 to Part I mixing well. Add color, fragrance and preservative as required and package.

Slurry Carbomer 940 into Dimethicone then mix well with the

Conditioning After Shave Toner

Part I: Water Carbomer 940 (Premix) Phenyl Dimethicone (Premix) Triethanolamine (99%) Part 11: Water Phospholipid SV SD3A Alcohol

% by Weight

51.00 0.35 2.00 0.60

30.05 1.00

15.00

Procedure: Part I:

Slurry Carbomer 940 into water by first mixing it with Phenyl Dimethicone. Allow to mix until homogenous. When Part I1 is ready, neutralize Part I with TEA. Add Part I1 and blend together until a smooth lotion is formed. Part 11:

Mix water and Phospholipid SV. Heat to 6 5 with agitation until the Phospholipid SV is dissolved. Cool to 30-40C and add SD3A alcohol. Add to Part I.

SOURCE: Mona Industries, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

Shaving Products 353

Brushless Shave Cream

T h i s f o r m u l a t i o n f e a t u r e s Vanseal NACS-30, sodium c o c o y l - s a r c o s i n a t e , Vanseal CS, c o c o y l s a r c o s i n e and po tass ium cocoate as h i g h foaming y e t m i l d s u r f a c t a n t s . S o r b i t o l adds humectancy w h i l e PVP and t a l c p r o v i d e l u b r i c i t y . S t e a r i c a c i d , p ropy lene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e , and c e t y l a l c o h o l a r e i n c l u d e d as t h i c k e n e r s and t o p r o v i d e p l e a s a n t a f t e r - f e e l .

I n a r e d i e n t : A Vanseal NACS-30

Vanseal CS Dei o n i zed Water Potassium Cocoate ( 2 ) So rb i t o 1 , 70% PVP ( 3 )

% by W t . 15.00 2.50

25.75 35 .OO

5 .00 0.75

5.00 B T a l c ( 4 )

C S t e a r i c A c i d Propy lene G l y c o l S t e a r a t e (5 ) C e t y l A l coho l

7 . 0 0 2.50 1 .50

D P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, Fragrance q . s .

(2 ) L i q u i d Coconut Soap, 40%

( 4 ) A G I T a l c (5 ) Cerasynt PA

(3 ) PVP K-30

P r e p a r a t i o n : Mix A i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r and hea t t o 55C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r -

r i n g u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A w i t h adequate a g i t a t i o n . Heat C t o 60C. Add C t o ( A + B), m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m and homogeneous. Cool t o 30C and add D .

Cons is tency : F lowab le ge l ( V i s c o s i t y : 2500-3500 cps)

Suggested Packaging: P l a s t i c b o t t l e o r pump.

Comments : T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s des igned t o se rve as a gu ide f o r

t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Formula No. 434

354 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emulsion for Shaving

I n s r e d i e n t s : A C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

A r l a c e l 186 B r i j 721s

B Water, d e i o n i zed

C * D o w i c i l 200

*q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w 3 .00 1 . o o 3 .00

9 3 . 0 0

Procedure:

s t i r . Cool t o about 35C and add (C) and water t o compensate f o r t h e l o s s due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . S t i r t o room tempera ture and package. A d j u s t pH t o 5-6. Formula C P 1082

Heat ( A ) t o 70C and heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) and

Soap Free - Nonionic Shaving Emul

I n n r e d i e n t s : A C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

A r l a c e l 186 B r i j 7 2 1 s

B Water, d e i o n i z e d Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o

C * D o w i c i l 200

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d

s o l u t i on

e n t s .

%w/w 3 .00 1 . o o 3 .00

83.00 1 0 . 0 0

Procedure:

Cool t o about 35C and add (C) and water t o compensate f o r t h e loss due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . S t i r t o room tempera ture and package. A d j u s t pH t o 5-6. Formula CP 1091

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 70C and heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) and s t i r .

Shaving Products 355

Hemostatic After Shave

I n q r e d i e n t s : 1 A ) I r g a s a n DP 300 2 Crodamol DA 3 Ethanol 95%

4 B) P r o p y l e n g l y c o l USP 5 Water demine ra l i zed

6 C) Fragrance: Courage 0/243101

7 D) C e p h a l i p i n

Procedure: D i s s o l v e phase A ) . M ix phase B ) . S low ly add phase B) t o phase A) . Then add i t e m ( 6 ) . F i n a l l y add i t e m ( 7 ) .

A p p l i c a t i o n No. I 001.A/4.91

Shaving Foam

I nared i e n t s : 1 Water demine ra l i zed 2 G l y c e r i n 3 T r ie thano lamine 95% 4 Genapol LRQ l i q u i d

6 S t e a r i c A c i d 7 L u v i t o l EHO 8 Nipaso l M 9 BHT 10 Cocamide DEA 1 1 Fragrance 12 C e p h a l i p i n 13 P h y t a l u r o n a t e

Procedure:

A p p l i c a t i o n No. I 003.0/02.93

SOURCE: Pentapharm L t d . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

5 Euxyl K-200

The f i l l i n g da ta a r e : Concent ra te 95% I sobutane ( a t 3,2 p s i ) 5%

?6 w/w 0.01 1 ;oo

50,OO

2,oo 44 n 49

0,50

2,oo

% w/w 71,08 4.00 31 21 5,OO 0,30 8,30 1 ,oo 0,20 0,Ol 0,40 0,50 3,OO 3,OO

3-56 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Shaving Creme

A .

0.

C.

S o f t i s a n 601 M i g l y o l 812 Mar lowet TA 6 I m w i t o r 900

NaCl Ampholyt J B 1 3 0 Locron L Water

Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

t o 1

%

12.0 5 . 0 3 . 0

5 . 0 5 . 0 5 . 0

0 0 . 0

qs qs

20 .E

P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and heated t o

75-8OC. 6 . i s heated t o t h e same tempera ture and g r a d u a l l y s t i r r e d i n t o A. Perfume i s i n t r o d u c e d a t approx . 30C.

Shaving Gel

A .

B .

Mar7 i n a t 242/28 Ampholyt J B 130 Marlamid DF 1218 A n t i 1 141 l i q u i d Water

S o f t i g e n 767 Perfume Sicomet Pa ten tb lau* P r e s e r v a t i v e

% 50 .E 1 0 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o

to 1 0 0 . 0

2 . 0 qs

0 . 0 5 q s

*Sicornet Pa ten tb lau (Pa ten t b l u e ) 80E 131 1% i n S o f t i g e n 767

P r e p a r a t i o n : The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f A . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and warmed t o

approx . 40C. The c o n s t i t u e n t s o f 6 . a r e mixed t o g e t h e r and added t o A . V i s c o s i t y a t 20C measured i n a B r o o k f i e l d v i s c o - meter : 1900 mPa.s.

SOURCE: Huls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Suggested Formu la t i ons

Shaving Products 357

Ultra Aerosol Shave Cream for Sensitive Skin

Veegum U l t r a , magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e , i s used i n t h i s emuls ion fo rmu la t o improve t h e s t a b i l i t y o f t h e l u x u r i o u s l a t h e r produced by combin ing Vanseal NACS-30 (sodium cocoy l s a r c o s i n a t e ) w i t h s t e a r i c and coconut a c i d soaps. Vanox PCX a c t s as an a n t i - o x i d a n t i n t h i s f o r m u l a t i o n .

I n a r e d i e n t : Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e ) Dei on i zed Water

G1 yce r i n T r ie thano lamine

S t e a r i c A c i d XXX Coconut A c i d ( 2 ) M i n e r a l O i l C e t y l A l coho l Vanox PCX (BHT)

Vanseal NACS-30 (Sodium Cocoyl Sa rcos ina te ) Methylparaben Fragrance

( 2 ) Emery 622

% by W t . 1 . o o

75.80

3 .00 4.00

6 .00 1 . 3 0 2 - 5 0 1 . o o 0 . 2 0

5 . 0 0 0 .20

q . s

Procedure:

e l l e r m ixe r a t 700 rpm. Inc rease t h e m ixe r speed t o 1700 r p m and mix f o r 30 m inu tes . Add t h e B i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o rde r shown w h i l e m i x i n g a t 1700 rpm and h e a t i n g t o 75C. Mix t h e C i n g r e d - i e n t s and hea t t o 75C. S low ly add C t o (A and 8 ) . A d j u s t t h e m ixe r speed t o a v o i d a i r entrapment and excess i ve foaming. M ix f o r 10 minu tes a t 75C, t h e n s low t h e m ixe r w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 30C. Add t h e D i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e o r d e r shown and mix each u n t i l un i fo rm. Package i n ae roso l c o n t a i n e r s u s i n g 9 5 . 0 w t % o f Formula N o . 451 and 5 .0 w t . % A-46 p r o p e l l e n t .

Produc t C h a r a c t e r i s t i c s :

S i f t Veegum U l t r a i n t o t h e water w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p rop-

V i s c o s i t y : 500-700 cps pH: 8 . 0 + - 0 . 2

Comments :

development o f new p roduc ts o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Fo rmu la t i on No. 451

T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s des igned t o serve as a gu ide f o r t h e

Section X Soaps and Hand Cleaners

358

Soap and Hand Cleaners 359

Economy Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaners

Rhodapon s0 82081s A1 kamide LE Rhodacal A-246/L T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e O l e i c A c i d G l y c e r i n e A1 kamu 1 s EGMS Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

Rhodapon SB 8208/S A1 kamide D I N 295/S Rhodacal A-246/L T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e O l e i c A c i d G1 y c e r i ne A1 kamul s EGMS Sodi um C h l o r i d e Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

Wt.%

3 . 8

17.5 0 . 7

0 . 5 1 . o 0 . 6 0.9

Q.S. 3-4

Q . S . t o 100

Wt.% 17.5 0 .7

0 . 5 1 . o 0 . 5 0 . 9

Q.S.

3.8

2-3

Q.S. t o 100

Procedure:

smooth a g i t a t i o n , b l e n d i n i n g r e d i e n t s as l i s t e d . Cool t o 30-35C and b l e n d i n f r a g r a n c e , dye, p r e s e r v a t i v e .

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es :

Charge water i n t o r e a c t o r and warm t o 75-8OC. W i t h r a p i d b u t

Appearance @ 25C: P e a r l , l o t i o n - l i ke l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 4,000-5,000 cps

Formula HA-0097

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Formula t ions

360 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Emulsion Cleaner

I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Acusol 820 S t a b i 1 i z e r (30%) Deodor i zed Kerosene NaOH (50%)

% as Suppl ie.d 8 8 . 1

1 . 7 10 .0

0 . 2

B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y cps , @ 0 . 5 rpm: 21,000 @ 12 rpm: 2,300

pH: 9 . 2

M i x i ng I n s t r u c t i o n s : Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r . H i gh-shear m i x i ng i s necessary t o d i sperse t h e s o l v e n t s

(kerosene, o i l )

Waterless Hand Cleaner

I n q r e d i e n t s : Water Acusol 820 S t a b i l i z e r (30%) NPElO Deodorized Kerosene M i n e r a l O i l NaoH (50%)

% as Suppl i e d 47.1

1 . 7 3 . 0

38 .0 10 .0

0.2

B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y cps, @ 0 . 5 rpm: 4,000,000 pH: 7 . 8

Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r . H i gh-shear m i x i ng i s necessary t o d i sperse t h e s o l v e n t s

M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s :

(kerosene, o i 1 ) . SOURCE: Rohm and Haas C o . : ACUSOL 820 S t a b i l i z e r : Suggested

Fo rmu la t i ons

Soap and Hand Cleaners 361

Emulsion Cleaner and Waterless Hand CleanerEmulsion Cleaner

I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Acusol 820 S t a b i 1 i z e r (30%) Deodor ized Kerosene NaOH (50%)

B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y cps @ 0 . 5 rpm: 21,000 @ 12 rpm: 2,300

wH: 9 . 2

Waterless Hand Cleaner

I n g r e d i e n t s : Water Acusol 820 S t a b i l i z e r (30%) N P E l O Deodori zed Kerosene M i n e r a l O i l NaOH (50%)

% as s u p p l i e d

1 .7 1 0 . 0

0 . 2

88 .1

% as s u p p l i e d 47.1

1 . 7 3 . 0

10 .0 0 .2

38. o

B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y @ 0 . 5 rpm: 4,000,000 PH: 7 .8

M i x i n g I n s t r u c t i o n s : Add t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e l i s t e d o r d e r . High-shear m i x i n g i s necessary t o d i s p e r s e t h e s o l v e n t s

(kerosene, o i 1 )

SOURCE: Rohm and Haas Co.: Acusol 820 S t a b i l i z e r : Suggested Formu 1 a t i on

362 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Fast Set Waterless Hand Cleaner with d-Limonene F-453

d-L i monene* Monami ne 1255 Monafax 705 G l y c e r i n e M i n e r a l O i l Water

% Bv Weiqht 40.0 12.0 0 .5 1 . o 2.0

44.5

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n .

Fo rmu la t i on P r o p e r t i e s :

Combine i n o r d e r l i s t e d , add ing water l a s t w i t h good

Phys ica l Appearance: White r i n g i n g ge l

* TABS-D from Union Camp may be s u b s t i t u t e d for d-Limonene

Clear Geld-Limonene Waterless Hand Cleaner F-454

d - L i monene* G l y c e r i n e Monami ne 1255 Monafax 785 Water

% Bv Weight 2 0 . 0 20.0 1 2 . 0

0 . 5 4 7 . 5

Procedure: Combine i n o r d e r l i s t e d , add ing water l a s t w i t h good

agi t a t i on.

Fo rmu la t i on P r o p e r t i e s : Phys i ca l Appearance:

* TABS-D (Union Camp

SOURCE: Mona I n d u s t r i e s

C lea r r i n g i n g ge l

may be s u b s t i t u t e d f o r d-Limonene

I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Soap and Hand Cleaners 363

Hand CleanersHand Cleaning Paste

B 22/2: S u l f e t a l TC 50 Pur ton SFD Carboxymethyl c e l l u l o s e 100% S o f t soap Quar tz sand China c l a y Sodium t r i p o l y p h o s p h a t e Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e

Hand Cleaning Cream, Free of Solvents

T r i ethano

P a r t 8: 1,2-Propy Water

P a r t C : Perfume

4.0% 1 .O% 1 .O%

12.0% 60.0%

6.0% 1 .O%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

B 27/8: P a r t A : M u l s i f a n CPA Oxypon 288 P a r a f f i n o i l DAB O l e i c a c i d

ami ne

ene g l y c o l

P r e s e r v a t i v e

Hand Cleaning Cream with Solvent

0 27/2: P a r t A : Zusol a t 1005/85 S h e l l s o l T P a r a f f i n o i l DAB A e r o s i l 200 Perfume

P a r t 8: Oxypon 2145 E x t r a k t 52 Euxyl K 400 Water

Manufacture:

P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l s t s t i r r i n g . P a r t A and P a r t B a r e t o be mixed s e p a r a t e l y .

4.0% 1 .O%

25.0% 5.0% 2.5%

6.0% 56.2%

0 - 2 % 0 .1%

10.5% 34.5%

9 .0% 1 .O%

0.1-0.2%

2.5% 15.0%

0.2% 27.1-27.2%

F i n a l l y add

SOURCE: Zschlmrner & Schwarr GmbH & Co,: Suggested Formula t ions

364 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hand Cleaners from Concentrate Economy

M i r a c a r e ANL Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodi um C h l o r i d e Water

Pearlescent

M i r a c a r e ANL M i rasheen 202 Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

M i r a c a r e ANL Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodium C h l o r i d e Water

M i r a c a r e ANL Opaci f i e r E-305 Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Sodi urn C h l o r i de Water

Premium

Lotion

Wt.% 30.1) Q . S .

2-3 67 .5

yit&& 32 .5

7 .5 Q.S.

0.5-1 - 5 59.0

Wt.% 40.0 Q.S.

0.5-1 .5 59.0

Wt.% 37.5

0 . 5 Q .S .

1-2 60.5

Procedure:

ANL. Mix u n t i l comp le te l y u n i f o r m and t h e n b l e n d i n remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s i n o r d e r l i s t e d . A d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n v i s c o s i t y t o d e s i r e d l e v e l w i t h a d d i t i o n o f sodium c h l o r i d e , as needed.

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : Appearance: C lea r , y e l l o w , p e a r l i z e d or opaque pH, as i s : 7-0 V i s c o s i t y : 2000-4000 cps

Formula HA-0096

Charge water i n t o m i x i n g vesse l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n M i raca re

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Soap and Hand Cleaners 365

Industrial and Institutional Liquid Hand SoapsGlucopon & AS

Water Standapol WAQ-SP Glucopon 425 CS Vel vetex BA-35 Sodium C h l o r i d e

Water Sodium LAS (60%) Glucopon 600 CSUP Vel ve tex BA-35 Standamid SD

Water Standapol ES-2 Glucopon 600 CSUP Standamid SD Vel ve tex BA-35 Sodium C h l o r i d e

Glucopon & LAS

Glucopon & AES

Glucopon & AOS

Water Sodium AOS (40%) Glucopon 600 CSUP Standamid SD Ve lve tex BA-35 Sodium C h l o r i d e

V i s c o s i t y o f Products : 4000-5000 cPs

61 .O 27.0

6 . 0 2 .8 3 .2

77.2 10.0 8.0 2 .8 2.0

58.9 30.0

6 . 0 1 . o 2 .8 1 .3

67.0 20.0

6 . 0 1 . o 2 .8 3 . 2

Procedure:

u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH t o 6.5-7.0 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . I n c o r p o r a t e c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.

SOURCE: Henkel Corp.: Suggested Formula t ions

Add i n t h e o rde r l i s t e d , d i s s o l v i n g each i n g r e d i e n t comple te ly

366 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Hand Soap Concentrate (Antimicrobial)

Comvonents: Ve lve tex BA-35 G l y c e r i n e Propy lene G l y c o l T r i c l o s a n * Glucopon 625 CSUP Sodium C h l o r i d e Te t rasod i um EDTA Standapol WAQ-LC

m 11.7 1.0 1 . o 1 . o

15.6 2.0 1 . o

66.7

Procedure: Add i n t h e o r d e r 1 i s t e d I d i s s o l v i ng each i ngred i e n t comp le te l y

u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . A d j u s t pH t o 6 .5 -7 .0 w i t h C i t r i c Ac id . I n c o r p o r a t e p r e s e r v a t i v e ; c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.

For use, c o n c e n t r a t e shou ld be d i l u t e d by t h e a d d i t i o n of 25 w t % c o n c e n t r a t e t o 71.5 w t % d e i o n i z e d water and 3.5 w t % sodium c h l o r i d e s o l u t i o n (25%). The r e s u l t i n g c l e a r l i q u i d hand soap w i l l have a v i s c o s i t y o f app rox ima te l y 6,000 cps. * May a l s o use P-Chloromela x y l e n o l (PCMX)

Waterless Hand Cleaner (Gel)

O i l Phase: Deodori zed Kerosene Emersol 213 T r y c o l 5963 Standamid KD Water Phase: Water T r ie thano lamine G l y c e r i n e

Waterless Hand Cleaner (Lotion)

O i l Phase: Oeodori zed Kerosene Emersol 213 G l y c e r i n e o r PEG S t e a r a t e Water Phase: Water T r i e thano l ami ne Propy lene G1 y c o l Glucopon 425 CS

40.0 7.5 5.0 1 . o m 41 .O 3.5 2.0

W a 40.0 7.5 2.0

40.0 3.0 3.0 4.5

Procedure:

h e a t i n g b o t h t o 60C. S low ly pour t h e o i l i n t o t h e wa te r w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cont inue s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g u n t i l a homogeneous p roduc t i s formed. I n c o r p o r a t e c o l o r and f r a g r a n c e as needed.

SOURCE: Henkel C o r p , : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Mix t h e o i l and water phases s e p a r a t e l y i n t h e o r d e r l i s t e d ,

Soap and Hand Cleaners 367

Liquid Hand Soap Formulations

Miracare ANK is also an ideal base for preparation ofemollient "Liquid Hand Soap" products. The rich creamy lathertypical of formulations derived from Miracare ANK is extremelystable even in the presence of heavy soils.

Lotion Hand SoapRequires No Heat

Water 61.0Miracare ANK 30.0Mirasheen 202 7.5Fragrance, Dye, Preservative Q.S.Sodium Chloride 1 .5

Blending Procedure:Charge water into mixing vessel and blend balance of ingred-

ients in order listed.

Cream Soap(Requires Heat)

Water 62.0Mi racare ANK 35.0Alkamuls EGMS 1 .5Fragrance, Dye, Preservative Q.S.Sodium Chloride 1 .5

Blending Procedure:Charge water and ANK into mixing vessel and heat to 75C.

Add and disperse Alkamuls EGMS. Cool with mixing to 4OC and blendin remaining ingredients.

Liquid Hand Soap

Parts bv WeightRhodaterge SMC 8Water 92Perfume, Dye, Preservative Q.S.

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Formulations

368 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Soap

Mar l i n a t 242/28 Mar l i n a t CM 105 Amphol y t JA 140 D i o n i l O C / K Lamepon S Camomi 1 e Speci a1 Lime Blossom Spec ia l Co l lagen CLR Perfume Co lour P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water t o 1

% 32 .0 1 8 . 0 1 0 . 0

3 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 0 . 8

qs qs qs qs

100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 . The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Liquid Soap

M a r l i n a t 242/28 Lamepon S M a r l i n a t DFN 30 Mar lamid PG 20 Mar lamid DF 1218 Perfume Col our P r e s e r v a t i v e NaCl Water

%

1 0 . 0 6 . 0 3.0 1 . o qs qs qs qs

t o 1 0 0 . 0

22 .o

P r e p a r a t i on :

u n t i l homogeneous. The pH i s a d j u s t e d t o 5 . 5 - 6 . 5 .

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics:

The components a r e mixed t o g e t h e r i n sequence and s t i r r e d

Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

0 21/65: Ze teso l NL Pur ton SFD Sodi um s u l f a t e Perfume C i t r i c a c i d Water, p r e s e r v a t i ve

Soap and Hand Cleaners 369

Liquid Synthetic Soaps

0 21/64: E x t r a k t 52 Pur ton SFD Water, perfume, p r e s e r v a t i v e , sodium

c h l o r i d e

43.00% 3.00% 3.00% 0.20% 0.05%

q . s . t o make 100.00%

30.0% 2.0%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

0 21/61: Ze teso l 856 T S e t a c i n 103 Spez ia l P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055 Pur ton SFD Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e , perfume, sodium c h l o r i d e ,

c i t r i c a c i d q . s

B 21/92: Ze teso l 2056 S e t a c i n 103 s p e z i a l P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4175 Oxypon 288 Sodium c h l o r i d e Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

0 21/87: Ze teso l 2056 Amphotensid B 4 Pur ton CFD Perfume Water, p r e s e r v a t i v e

25.0% 10.0% 5.0% 1 .O%

t o make 100.0%

25 I 0% 30.0% 10.0% 2.0% 2,0%

q . s . t o make 100,0%

20 I 0% 9.0% 1 .5% 0.3%

q . s . t o make 100.0%

SOURCE: Zschdmmer & Schwarr GmbH & Co. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

370 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Liquid Soap with Aloe Vera Gel

T h i s i s a c l e a n s i n g and c o n d i t i o n i n g l i q u i d soap w i t h A loe Vera.

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e , 28% a c t i v e 35.70 Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e , 26% a c t i v e 19.20 Phase B: C i t r i c a c i d , anhydrous 0 . 2 0 Phase C : Dei o n i zed water 20.45 Polyquaternium-10 0 .75 Phase D: Laurami de DEA 3.00 L a u r y l methyl g luce th -10 hyd roxyp ropy l dimonium c h l o r i d e 8.00

PEG-120 methy l g lucose d e o l e a t e 2.00 T e t r a s o d i urn EDTA 0 I20 Phase E: A loe Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002) 10 .00 Phase F: S u t t o c i d e A 0.30 Fragrance qs Procedure:

Add Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o main m i x i n g vesse l , and combine w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Heat t o 60C. D i s s o l v e Phase B i n g r e d i e n t s . I n a p remix c o n t a i n e r , d i s p e r s e Phase C i ngred i e n t s Heat t o 60C t o h y d r a t e . When Phase A i s un i fo rm, add Phase C t o main vesse l , a g i t a t i n g between each a d d i t i o n . Cool ba tch t o 40C. S low ly add Phases E and F w i t h adequate m i x i n g . SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Pearlescent Liquid Hand Soap

Phase A : m

I n a r e d i e n t : Water DOBSA, Na s a l t (60%)

Add, mix w e l l L a u r y l e t h e r s u l f a t e , Ammon. s a l t (60%)

Add, mix w e l l L y t r o n 295 opaci f i e r

Add, mix w e l l Euper lan PK-771 p e a r l i z e r

Add, mix w e l l Tomah A0-728 Spec ia l

Add, mix w e l l

- W t % 54.70 23.50

16.50

0.10

2 . 2 0

3 .00

pH: 7.85 Recommended D i l u t i o n s : 1 o t . / g a l A p p l i c a t i o n s : Hand soap o r dishwash Notes: H igh foam, d e g r e a s i n g - l a n o l i n can be added f o r f e e l

V i s c o s i t y 360 cps

SOURCE: Tomah L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Formula PC-101

Soap and Hand Cleaners 371

Low Cost Clear Cleansing Bar

I n a r e d i e n t s : - % P a r t A : Propy lene G1 y c o l 11 . o G1 y c e r i n 7 . 0 Crovol PK-70 (PEG-45 Palm Kernel G l y c e r i d e s ) 3 .0 Incromectan t AMEA-70 (Acetamide MEA) 9.3 C r o d a s i n i c LS30 (Sodi um Lauroy l Sarcos i n a t e ) 6 . 7 Incromide CAC (Cocamide DEA Cocoyl Sarcos ine) 7 .0 Tea ls* 9 .0 Dei on i zed Water 6 . 0 Sodium Cumenesulfonate (45%) 2.0 TEA (99%) 2.0 P a r t B : Sucrose 9 . 0 P a r t C : Ta l l ow Soap #7325 28.0 Procedure:

Add P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add P a r t C w i t h m i x i n g w h i l e h e a t i n g t o 95-1OOC. M i x i n g u n t i l t a l l o w i s d i s s o l v e d (20-30 m i n u t e s ) . Avo id water l o s s by c o v e r i n g m i x i n g v e s s e l . Sk in o f f s u r f a c e foam and pour i n t o molds. A l l o w molded soap t o coo l I

SOURCE: Croda I n c , : Fo rmu la t i on SC-252

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 80-9OC.

N.A.T.C. Approved *Standami de T

Shower Soap

Weight .% Mackanate EL (Disodium Laure th S u l f o s u c c i n a t e ) 20.0 Mackanate OM ( D i sodi um 01 eamido MEA Sul f o s u c c i n a t e ) 15.0 Sodi um L a u r y l - S u l f a t e 1 0 . 0 Mackami de LLM (Laurami de DEA) 6.0 Mackpearl LV ( P e a r l Agent) 3.0 Mackernium 007 (Po lyquatern ium 7 ) 2.5 Macksta t DM (DMDM Hydanto in ) 9s C i t r i c A c i d qs t o pH 6.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e qs t o 10,000 cps Water, Dye, Fragrance qs t o 100.0 Procedure: 1. D ispe rse Mackernium 007 i n wa te r . 2. Add rema in ing component and heat t o 40 degrees C . 3. A d j u s t pH w i t h c i t r i c a c i d . 4. A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y w i t h sodium c h l o r i d e . 5 . Cool and f i l l .

SOURCE: M c I n t y r e Group L t d . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

372 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

"Medicated" Skin Cleaner

Rhodapon LT-6 RhodaDon 21 LS

Wt.% 25.0 3 0 . 0

50% Sodi u m Hydrox i de Aqueous Sol u t i on l . S . t o pH 8 . 0 PCMX 1 . o Water 23.4 Alkamide DL 203/S 2 . 5 C y c l o t e r i c BET C 30 7 . 5 Geropon SBFA 30 1 0 . 0 A1 kamu 1 s EGMS 0 . 6 Fragrance and Dye Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Charge Rhodapon LT-6 and Rhodapon 21LS i n t o m i x i n g v e s s e l .

Warm system t o 45-50C. W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , a d j u s t pH t o 8 . 0 w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n (50% Aq. ) , as needed.

M i x u n t i l system i s c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m .

and w a t e r . Heat system t o 70-75C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n .

A1 kamul s EGMS. M a i n t a i n 70-75C tempera ture u n t i 1 system i s c o m p l e t e l y u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n compat ib le f r a g r a n c e and dye.

Appearance: V iscous, p e a r l e s c e n t l i q u i d pH ( a s i s ) : 8 .0 -8 .5 V i s c o s i t y @ 25C: 10,000-14,000 cps Approx. S o l i d s ( % ) : 30.4 A c t i v e I n g r e d i e n t : Parach lo rometaxy leno l (PCMX) Formula HA-0100

2. W i t h r a p i d b u t smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n PCMX.

3 . W i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n , s l o w l y b l e n d i n Alkamide DL 203/S

4. S lowly b l e n d i n C y c l o t e r i c BET C 30, Geropon SBFA 30 and

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s A f t e r 24 Hours:

Heavy-Duty Hand Cleaner Wt.%

Rhodapon S 0 8208/S 30.0 Rhodacal A-246/L 6 .3 O l e i c A c i d 1 . 6 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 9 M i rasheen 202 10.0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 1-3 Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Q . S . Water Q.S t o 100 Procedure:

Mirasheen 202 and Water i n t o r e a c t o r and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . S l o w l y b l e n d i n o l e i c a c i d f o l l o w e d by f ragrance, dye, p r e s e r v - a t i v e . A d j u s t v i s c o s i t y by b l e n d i n g i n sodium c h l o r i d e . Cont inue a g i t a t i o n u n t i l system i s u n i f o r m and then package. T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

Charge Rhodapon SB 8208/S, Rhodacal A-246/L, Tr ie thano lamine,

Appearance: Whi te , p e a r l i z e d l i q u i d pH, as i s : 7-8 V i s c o s i t y : 2000-3000 cps Formula HA-0098

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Formula t ions

Soap and Hand Cleaners 373

Mild Lotion Soap

Rhodapon L-22 Rhodapex MA-360 C y c l o t e r i c BET-C-30 A1 kamide DC 212/S Geropon SBFA-30 A1 kamul s EGMS C i t r i c A c i d Sodium C h l o r i d e Water Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e

Wt.% 17.0 3 .0 2 .0 1 . 5 5 .0 1 . o

0 .5 -1 .5 Q . S . t o pH 5-6

69 .5 Q.S.

Procedure:

L-22, Rhodapex MA-360, C y c l o t e r i c BET-C-30, Alkamide DC 212/S, and Rhodacal SBFA-30. Mix u n t i 1 comp le te l y u n i f o r m . Heat systems t o 65-70C. D isperse Alkamuls EGMS i n t o heated system and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 40-45C and b l e n d i n c i t r i c a c i d , f r a g - rance, dye and p r e s e r v a t i v e . Add sodium c h l o r i d e , as needed, t o a d j u s t f o r m u l a t i o n t o d e s i r e d range (3,000-6,000 cps a t 25C).

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i es :

Charge water i n t o m i x i n g vesse l and s l o w l y b l e n d i n Rhodapon

Appearance a t 25C: Pear lescen t l i q u i d V i s c o s i t y a t 25C: 3,000-6,000 cps (as d e s i r e d ) pH (as i s ) : 5-6 % S o l i d s : 13.5-14.5

Formula HA-0103

Liquid Hand Soap

M i r a t a i n e CB Rhodapon LSB Cyclomide DC-212/S Water

Procedure:

mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

Add t h e wa te r . W i th mix

Appearance: C lea r , v e r y

V i scos i t y : 600-700 S p e c i f i c G r a v i t y : 1 .04

Formula HA-0071

pH: 8 .9 -9 .0

ng, add t h e remain

l i g h t y e l l o w s o l u t

Wt.% 10.0 30.0

2.0 58.0

ng m a t e r i a l s and

on

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Sugeested Fo rmu la t i ons

374 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Premium Emollient Hand Soap

Rhodacal A-246/L C y c l o t e r i c BET-C 30 Alkamide LE Alkamul EGMS D i sodi um EDTA G l y c e r i n e C i t r i c A c i d Sodium C h l o r i d e Fragrance, Dye, P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

Wt.% 23 .0

4.5 1 . 5 2 . 0 0 . 1 0 .2

Q.S. t o pH 6 .2-6 .7 Q.S. t o 3,000-5,000 cps

Q . S . Q.S. t o 100

Procedure:

a t i o n , warm t o 70-75C. Blend i n Alkamide LE, Alkamul EGMS, Disodium EDTA and G l y c e r i n e . Once system i s un i fo rm, coo l t o 35C w i t h smooth a g i t a t i o n and b lend i n f rag rance , dye, p res - e r v a t i v e . A d j u s t pH t o 6.2-6.7 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d and add sodium c h l o r i d e as needed t o v i s c o s i t y t o 3,000-5,000 cps (25C).

T y p i c a l P r o p e r t i e s :

Combine Rhodacal A-246/L and Water and w i t h moderate a g i t -

Appearance: P e a r l i z e d l i q u i d pH, as i s : 6 .2 -6 .7 V i s c o s i t y : 3000-5000 cps

Formula HA-0095

Hand Cleaner

M i rano l C2M Conc. NP M i r a t a i n e CB Rhodapon LSB Water

Wt.% 16.0 5.0

1 6 . 0 6 3 . 0

A d j u s t pH t o 7 .5 w i t h c i t r i c a c i d .

Procedure:

mix u n t i l un i fo rm.

Phys i ca l P r o p e r t i e s :

Add t h e wa te r . W i th m ix ing , add t h e remain ing m a t e r i a l s and

Appearance: S l i g h t l y hazy g e l pH: 7 .5 V i scos i t y : 1500-2000 Speci f i c Gravi t y : 1 .040B

Formula HA-0070

SOURCE: Rhone-Poulenc: Suggested Formula t ions

Soap and Hand Cleaners 375

A l l q u a n t i t i e s i n d i c a t e d expressed as p a r t s by we igh t a r e on a percentage b a s i s so any s i z e b a t c h may be conven

n t h e f o l l o w i n g f o r m u l a t i o n s a r e o f t h e f i n i s h e d soap. These w e i g h t s t h a t q u a n t i t i e s necessary t o produce e n t l y c a l c u l a t e d .

6) Triethanolamine Oleic-Coconut Shampoo (40% Real Soap)Emery 621 Coconut F a t t y A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 263) 12.7 Emery 213 Low T i t e r O l e i c A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 203) 12 .7 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (avg. mol . w t . 140) 1 4 . 7 Carb i t o 1 7.0 Water t o 100.0

Procedure: B lend t h e o l e i c and coconut f a t t y a c i d s . D i s s o l v e t h e t r i -

ethanolamine i n t h e r e q u i r e d amount o f water and proceed as f o r t h e coconut shampoo, fo rmula 4, w i t h t h e e x c e p t i o n t h a t h e a t i n g i s n o t e s s e n t i a l . Longer s t a n d i n g i s r e q u i r e d w i t h o u t h e a t , b u t t h e a b i l i t y t o make soaps w i t h o u t h e a t i n g may be v a l u a b l e i n p a r t i c u l a r s i t u a t i o n s . P r o p e r t i e s and V a r i a t i o n s :

v e r y m i l d and n o n i r r i t a t i n g . The C a r b i t o l g i v e s t h e soap a p l e a s i n g odor and c o n t r i b u t e s t o t h e c l e a n s i n g power of t h e shampoo.

T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e soaps cannot be checked f o r n e u t r a l i t y by t h e usual methods, b u t even i f an excess o f t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e i s p r e s e n t , t h e soap w i 11 be on1 y m i 1 d l y a1 k a l i ne.

T h i s soap produc t i s a c l e a r l i q u i d o f amber t o r e d c o l o r ,

7) Coconut-Oleic Hand Soap (15% Real Soap)

Emery 621 Coconut F a t t y A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 263) 6.5 Emersol 213 Low T i t e r O l e i c A c i d ( a c i d v a l u e 203) 6 .5 C a u s t i c po tash (100%) 3.0 Water t o 100.0

Procedure: Prepare as f o r f o r m u l a t i o n 4: D i s s o l v e t h e c a u s t i c i n t h e necessary amount o f w a t e r ,

h e a t i n g t o 49-54C (120-130F), t h e n add t h e f a t t y a c i d i n a s low steady stream. A g i t a t e w h i l e m i x i n g t h e f a t t y a c i d and c a u s t i c u n t i l s a p o n i f i c a t i o n i s complete. The r e a c t i o n m i x t u r e shou ld be heated t o 66-71C (150-16OF) d u r i n g t h e f i n a l s tages o f s a p o n i f i c a t i o n .

Perfume as d e s i r e d . A l l o w t h e soap t o s tand and s e t t l e f o r s e v e r a l days a t near f r e e z i n g temperatures, i f p o s s i b l e , and decant o r f i l t e r t h e soap. P r o p e r t i e s and V a r i a t i o n s :

D i s t i l l e d p i n e o i l o r o t h e r perfume may be added. T h i s i s a t y p i c a l fo rmula f o r soaps used i n l i q u i d soap d ispensers , and many such p r o d u c t s c o n t a i n f l u o r e s c e i n , a dye t h a t i m p a r t s a g r e e n i sh-ye1 low f 1 uorescence . SOURCE: Henkel Corp./Emery Group: F a t t y Ac ids and T h e i r

Check t h e n e u t r a l i t y o f t h e soap and a d j u s t as necessary.

Water S o l u b l e Soaps: Suggested Formula t ions

376 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water Free Hand Cleaner

I n a r e d i e n t s : I s o s t e a r i c a c i d M i n e r a l o i l B r i j 30 Tween 81

Procedure: Mix w e l l a t room tempera tu re .

Waterless Hand Cleaner

I n g r e d i e n t s : A I s o p a r a f f i n i c hydrocarbon

Lanol i n C e t y l a1 coho1 P a r a f f i n wax A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60

B G l y c e r i n Water, d e i on i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .

w 2 0 . 0 0 60.00 1 5 . 0 0

5 .00

30.00 1 . 0 0 3.00 2.00 1 . o o 4.00

5 . 0 0 54.00

Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Waterless Hand Cleaner

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Magnesi um a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e

Water, d e i on i zed

B A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Deodori zed kerosene

C Methy l c e l l u l ose, 4000 cps Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

%w/w 2 . 5 0 30.00

2.00

35.00

0 . 5 0 22.00

8 .00

Procedure: A-Add MAS t o H20 s l o w l y , a g i t a t i n g c o n t i n u a l l y u n t i l smooth.

(About 1 h o u r ) . Heat ( A ) t o 62C. 8-Heat t o 60C. Add (A) t o ( 8 ) . S t i r u n t i l c o o l . C-Heat 1/2 o f H20 t o 9OC and add m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l d i spe rsed . Add (C) t o (A&B) w i t h ag i t a t i on. SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Soap and Hand Cleaners 377

Waterless Hand Cleaner

A . M o n t m o r i l l o n i t e ( 1 ) Water

B . Potassium Hydrox ide Water

C . O l e i c A c i d Deodor ized Kerosene Po lyso rba te 80, A c e t y l a t e d Lanol i n A1 coho1 , C e t y l Ace ta te ( 2 )

Pe t ro la tum

D . Acuscrub 50 P r e s e r v a t i v e s

W S 3 . 0

39 .5

1 . 5 10

6.0 25.0

3 . 0 2.0

1 0 . 0 q . s .

Procedure: S low ly add t h e M o n t m o r i l l o n i t e t o t h e water w h i l e a g i t a t i n g

a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . D i s s o l v e t h e po tass ium hyd rox ide i n t h e wa te r , Add B t o A w i t h medium shear . Heat A / B t o 6 0 C . Combine C and hea t t o 65C. Cool t o 50C, then s l o w l y add Acuscrub 50 u n t i l coo led t o 30C. Add p r e s e r v a t i v e s and mix u n t i l smoo

(

A . 0

h and u n i f o r m . ) M i n e r a l C o l l o i d BP ( 2 ) S o l u l a n 98

Waterless Hand Cleaner

1 Phase: Pet ro leum D i s t i l l a t e s ( 1 ) O l e i c A c i d C12-15 Pare th-3 ( 2 ) Lanol i n

B . Water Phase: Water T r i e thano l ami ne G l y c e r i n

W S 3 0 . 0

6 .0 4 . 0 0 . 5

4 4 . 5 3.0 2 . 0

C . Acuscrub 50 10 .0

Procedure:

50 s l o w l y t o t h e o i l phase w i t h moderate a g i t a t i o n , S low ly pour t h e water phase i n t o t h e o i l phase w i t h cons tan t s t i r r i n g u n t i l a smooth and u n i f o r m ge l i s formed.

Heat b o t h o i l and water phases s e p a r a t e l y t o 5 5 C . Add Acuscrub

( 1 ) S h e l l Sol 71 ( 2 ) Neodol 25-3

SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

378 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterless Hand Cleaner No. 390

Van Gel B

Water

Water O l e i c a c i d

Deodor ized kerosene

A CMC 7MF

B Po tass i um hyd rox ide

C Carna t ion Whi te M i n e r a l O i l

1 . 7 0 . 3

44.0 1 . o 3 .0

10 .0 10.0 30.0

P r e s e r v a t i v e q .s .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add C t o A / B and mix u n t i l emuls ion i s smooth and un i fo rm. Add d e s i r e d p res - e r v a t i ve . Cons is tency : Medi um v i scos i t y cream. Suggested Packagi ng: Pump o r wide mouth c o n t a i ner . Comments:

Van Gel B/CMC t h i c k e n s t h i s c o l d process fo rmu la t o a medium v i s c o s i t y cream w h i l e s t a b i l i z i n g t h e emulsion f rom b l e e d and s e p a r a t i o n . Potassium o l e a t e a l l o w s good c l e a n s i n g a c t i o n a t a pH o f 8 . The m ine ra l o i l m in imizes d e f a t t i n g o f t h e s k i n caused by t h e deodor ized kerosene.

Blend Van Gel B and CMC. S low ly add t o t h e water w h i l e

Liquid Waterless Hand Cleaner No. 243

Veegum

G l y c e r i n

2-Amino-2-methyl-1-propanol Deodori zed kerosene O l e i c a c i d

C A r l a c e l 186 C1 e a r l a n

A Water

B T e r g i t o l NP-10

2.0 73.0

4 .0 3 . 0 0 .5

10.0 1 . 5 5 .0 1 . o

P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .

Procedure: S low ly add Veegum t o t h e water w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum

a v a i l a b l e shear. Cont inue m i x i n g u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A and heat t o 50C. Heat C t o 55C. Add C t o A/B. M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Add d e s i r e d p r e s e r v a t i v e . Cons is tency : Pourab le l i q u i d Suggested Packaging: Pump d ispenser Comments :

f o r m u l a t i o n , g l y c e r i n serves as a humectant w h i l e t h e l a n o l i n h e l p s p r e v e n t d e f a t t i n g o f t h e s k i n . SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b l l t Co.: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Veegum s t a b i l i z e s and t h i c k e n s t h i s l i q u i d emuls ion . I n t h i s

3 79

Section XI

Sun Care Products

380 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Absorbing Sunscreen

Formula: Phase A : Veegum U l t r a Dei o n i zed Water G l y c e r i n

Phase 0: PEG-1 50 D i s t e a r a t e D i o c t y l Mal a t e C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 C e t y l A l coho l Benzophenone-3 O c t y l D ime thy l PABA S tea re th -2 Steareth-20

Phase C : P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance

Synergistic Sunscreen

4- te r t -Buty l -4 -methoxyd i -benzoy lmethane Amyl N,N-dimethyl -p-ami nobenzoate 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r i c a c i d P r o t o p e t 1 S P e t r o l a t u m O l i v e O i l Squal ane Propy lene g l y c o l Po tass i um h y d r o x i de T a l c T r i sod i um EDTA Water

%Wt.

1 .50 70.50

5.50

3 .00 2 . 0 0 4.00 0.50 3 .00 7 .00 0 .90 2.10

q . s .

2 .00% 3 .00 2.00 3.00 3 .00 3.00 3.00 5.00 3 .00 0 .20 5 .00 0.02

q . s t o 100.00

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp. : Petro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products 381

Absorbing Sunscreen

Formula: Phase A : L -Tyros i ne Phenyl a1 an i ne A s p a r t i c a c i d Esci n Copper g lucona te Hydro1 yzed c o l l agen C a r r o t o l e o r e s i n S t . John ' s Wort e x t r a c t D i hydroxyacetone C e t y l a l c o h o l P r e s e r v a t i v e E m u l s i f i e r s , t h i c k e n i n g agents Carna t ion M ine ra l O i l Lanol i n S t e a r i n T r ie thano lamine (85%) Water

0.20% 0.10 0.10 0 . 0 5 0.01 1.50 0.15 1 . o o 0.50 1 . o o

4.00 15.00 3.00 3.00 1-00

q . s . up t o 100.00

q . s .

Water Resistant SP4 Sunscreen Composition

Water G l y c e r i n P o l y g l y c e r y l - 8 o l e a t e Padimate 0 Cyclomethicone Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 Lanol i n a1 coho1 Propy lene g l y c o l (and) d i a z o l i d i n y l u rea (and)

Perfume o i l paraben (and) p r o p y l paraben (Germaben 11)

Non-Alcoholic Sunscreen

O c t y l d ime thy l PABA Benzophenone-3 Carna t ion M i n e r a l O i 1 O le th -2 I soce te th -20 Water Propy lene g l y c o l So rb i t o 1

67.00% 5.00 3.00 4.00 10.00 5.00 5.00

0.50 0.50

methy l

7.00% 3.00 10.00 6.25

40.00 4.00

1 1 . oo

18.75

SOURCE: W i t c o Corp . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

382 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

After Sun Lotion

P a r t I: Water Carbomer 934

P a r t 11: Rosswax 2540 Rosswax 1824

#76

O i 1

Coconut O i l GMS SE Ross Jo joba

P a r t 111: A loe Vera L

P a r t I V : Germaben I 1

P a r t V : F ragrance

P a r t s by Wei a h t 500.0

2 . 0

6.0 15.0 25.0 6.0 4.0

q u i d 10.0

6 . 0

P a r t V I : T r i e thano lamine

q . s .

4.5

Procedure:

934 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n a separa te j a c k e t e d k e t t l e heat P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . Next add P a r t 111, then P a r t I V , t h e n P a r t V , f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add P a r t V I . Cool t o 130F and package.

Heat t h e water i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e Carbomer

Solar Tanning Oil Mousse

P a r t (A ) : Ross Base O i l 2539 E s c a l o l 507 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60

P a r t ( 9 ) : Water Germaben I 1 Fragrance

% 62 .s 5.0 3.0 4.0

24.7 1 . o q . s

Procedure: Heat P a r t ( A ) and P a r t (B) i n separa te s t a i n l e s s s t e e l

v e s s e l s under g e n t l e a g i t a t i o n t o 170F. When tempera ture i s reached and b o t h a r e c l e a r , add P a r t (B) t o P a r t (A ) , coo l t o 120F, Fragrance and package. Aeroso l F i l l : 90% o f above c o n c e n t r a t e

Note : Pack i n Epon l i n e d cans w i t h P r e c i s i o n Va lve Systems.

SOURCE: Frank 9 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

10% o f A-46 Prope l l e n t

Sun Care Products 383

Aloe After Sun Lotion (40% Aloe)

I n q r e d i e n t s : A . Water

G1 y c e r i n T r ie thano lamine Germaben I 1

0 . S t e a r i c A c i d L i g h t m ine ra l o i l F i n e s o l v TN C e t y l A l coho l S i l i c o n F l u i d 225 Cocoa B u t t e r I s o p r o p y l Lano la te

Percent 74.00 3.0 1 . o 0 .5

8 .0 5 .0 2 . 0 1 . o 0.5 2.0 2.0

C . A loe Veragel L i q u i d Concent ra te 1:40 1 .o D . Fragrance q . s .

Procedure: Heat phases t o 80C. A t 80C add o i l phase t o water phase.

Mix and c o o l t o 55C. Add A loe c o n c e n t r a t e t o ba tch a t 5%. Add f r a g r a n c e a t 45C.

Suntan Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A . Lexemul 561

S t e a r i c a c i d C e t y l a1 coho1 M i n e r a l o i l Sesame o i l Laneth 10 Ace ta te E t h y l D i hyd roxyp ropy l PABA Mink o i l Po lyso rba te 20 Lexgard P

B. Propy lene G l y c o l Carbomer 934 Tr ie thano lamine A loe Vera L i q u i d 1:l Lexgard M Water

Percent 4.00 2.00 1 . oo 4.00 1 . oo 0.50 3.00 0.10 0.20 0.05

4.00 0.20

10.00 0.15

qs t o pH 7 .2 -7 .5

qs to 100

Procedure:

t h e n n e u t r a l i z e . D i s s o l v e Lexgard M i n p ropy lene g l y c o l and add t o t h e water w i t h t h e rema in ing c o n t e n t s o f P a r t B. Separa te l y m e l t c o n t e n t s o f P a r t A t o g e t h e r . S low ly add P a r t A t o P a r t B w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o s e t p o i n t and f i l l . F u l l c o n d i t i o n i n g develops i n 24 hours. SOURCE: D r . Madjs L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat water t o 7OC. D isperse Carbomer 934. Mix u n t i l d i s s o l v e d ,

384 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Aloe Suntan Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A . Water

G1 yce r i n Glucamate SSG-20 Carbopol 934 P r e s e r v a t i v e s

B. G1 ucate-SS C e t y l a l c o h o l C e t y l p a l m i t a t e G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e P . E . G . 100 s t e a r a t e S t e a r i c a c i d E s c a l o l 507 M i n e r a l o i l

Percent q . s 4.0 1 .5 0 . 1 q . s

1 . 5 1 . o 1 . o 0.22 0.28 4.0 4 .0 5.0

C . A.M.P.-95 0.32

D. A loe Veragel 200 Powder 0 . 1 Water 9 . 9

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e S . D . A loe Vera i n water t o p repare g e l . Heat

ba lance o f water t o 80C and d i s s o l v e Carbopo l . Add r e s t o f Phase “ A ” and keep tempera ture a t 80C. Heat phase ”B” t o 80C. and add t o ” A ” . Add phase ” C ” . Cool t o 35C. and add ’ ID ” . M ix we1 1 .

After Sun Lotion

I n g r e d i e n t s : A . Water

Carbomer

B. Rosswax 2540 Rosswax 1824 Coconut O i l #6 Gms SE Ross Jo joba O i 1

Percent 500.0 g r .

2.0 g r .

6 . 0 g r . 15 .0 g r . 15.0 g r .

6.0 g r . 4.0 g r .

C . A loe Vera L i q u i d 1 : l 10.0 g r .

D . Germaben I 1 6 . 0 g r .

E . Fragrance q . s .

F . Tr ie thano lamine 4.5 g r . Procedure:

Heat t h e water i n steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e Carbomer 934 w i t h a g i t a t i o n . I n a separa te j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , hea t B t i l l c l e a r . Next add B t o t h e water phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Next add C, t h e n D, t h e n E , f r ag rance and f i n a l l y add F. Cool t o 130F and package. SOURCE: D r . Madis L a b o r a t o r i e s I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Sun Care Products 385

Buffered Self Tanning Lotion

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a p o u r a b l e l o t i o n t h a t c o u l d be d ispensed f rom an opaque g l a s s o r r i g i d p l a s t i c b o t t l e . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s a 5% Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as t h e s e l f t a n n i n g i n g r e d i e n t . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s no amines t o r e a c t w i t h Dihydroxyacetone and t h e f i n a l pH i s a d j u s t e d t o a p p r o x i m a t e l y 4, t o i n s u r e n a t u r a l c o l o r e d t a n development. The f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e a s i l y and even ly . The f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t shou ld be s t o r e d away f r o m l i g h t and a t tempera ture c o n d i t i o n s below 40C t o p r e v e n t DHA f rom degrad ing .

?&& A . De ion ized Water 62.18

Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 0.20 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A l c o h o l (Myacide SP) 0.20 Propylene G l y c o l USP 3.00 G l y c e r i n 1 .oo C i t r i c A c i d USP-FCC (Anhydrous F i n e G r a n u l a r ) 0 .24 Sodium C i t r a t e USP-FCC 0.28

B. H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e (Cel l o s i ze PP-15,OOOH) 0.20 C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 2.00

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 56 ) 4.00 S o r b i t a n S t e a r a t e ( A r l ace1 60) 0.60 Propy lene G1 y c o l D i c a p r y l a t e / D i c a p r a t e ( Lexol PO-865 2.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 3.00 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l EHS) 1 . oo Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10

D . Dihydroxyacetone 5.00 De ion i zed Water 15.00

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-8OC. Use a p r o p e l l e r mixer

f o r a g i t a t i o n . 2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n "8" i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed

t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h e n s low t o h i g h e s t speed which does n o t produce a v o r t e x .

3. Combine s e c t i o n " C " . Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s low m i x i ng.

4 . When s e c t i o n s "AB" and "Cot a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g - na ted tempera tures add s e c t i o n "C" t o s e c t i o n s "AB". I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. Begin c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i n g .

and c o o l i n g .

5 . Us ing g loves , combine s e c t i o n "D" and mix u n t i l c l e a r . 6. Add s e c t i o n "D" t o s e c t i o n s "ABC" a t 35-4013. Cont inue m i x i n g

7 . A t 30-35C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 8 . M i x b a t c h u n t i l i t reaches room tempera ture . 9. A d j u s t f i n a l pH t o 4.00-4.10 w i t h C i t r i c A c i d o r Sodium

C i t r a t e s o l u t i o n s , as r e q u i r e d .

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : V i s c o s i t y : 1,700 cPs @ 24C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA @ 10 rpm) pH: 1.0 @ 24C

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n 398-101-1

386 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Cooling After Sun LotionI n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 Methy l Glucose D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegosof t CT) M i n e r a l O i l Phase 8: G1 y c e r i n Water Phase C: M i n e r a l O i l Carbomer 941 Ethanol Phase D : Sodium Hydrox ide (10% s o l u t i o n ) Phase E: Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e s Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o 0 o r €3 t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4. S t i r . 5 . D isperse Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/B. 6 . Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add Ethano l . 8 . Add phase D / E . S t i r . 9 . M ix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .

w 450) 2 . 0

6 . 5 5.7

3 . 0 71.4

0 .8 0 . 2

10 .0

0 . 4

Q.S. Q . S .

Homogenize

Suntan LotionI n g r e d i e n t s : w Phase A : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 3 Methy l Glucose D i s t e a r a t e (Tego Care 450) 2 . 0 Decyl O l e a t e (Tegosof t DO) 6 . 5

O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 7 . 0 Oxybenzone 3 . 0 Phase 8: G l y c e r i n 3 .0 Water 71 . 4 Phase C: I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t P ) 0 .8 Carbomer 941 0 . 2 Phase D: Sodi urn Hydrox i de ( 1 0% s o l u t i on) 0 . 4 Phase E: Fragrance Q.S. P r e s e r v a t i ves Q . S . Procedure: 1 . Heat t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A t o 80C. 2 . Heat t h e i n g r e d -

i e n t s o f Phase B t o 80C. 3 . Add A t o B o r B t o A w i t h o u t s t i r r i n g . 4 . S t i r . 5 . D isperse Carbomer i n t o t h e o i l / e s t e r add t o A/B. Homogenize. 6. Cool t o 35-40C w i t h s t i r r i n g . 7 . Add Phase D/E. S t i r . 8 . M ix u n t i l v i s c o s i t y i s c o r r e c t .

I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t P) 5 . 7

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formula t ions

Sun Care Products 387

Daily UV Protection Lotion (Approximate SPF 18)

Dermacryl LT p r o v i d e s i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n , r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e and water r e s i s t a n c e as w e l l as improved r u b - i n p r o p e r t i e s I

I n n r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Neo He l iopan B r i j 76 Cerasynt Q C e t y l A lcoho Emersol 132 T i o v e i l F IN F i n s o l v TN DC 334 F l u i d DC 556 F l u i d A b i l 88852

Phase 0:

AV

Deion ized Water T r i e thano l ami ne (99%) Dermacryl LT Neo He l iopan Hydro Carbopol 940 (2% Aq. S o l n . )

Phase C: Propy lene G l y c o l Dry -F lo PC

Phase D: Germaben I I E

7.50 1 - 0 0 1 .so 1 .oo 1.50 1.70 5.00 3.00 1 .oo 0.50

40.30 4.00 1 .oo 4.00

20.00

3.00 3.00

1 .oo

Procedure: Phase B:

S l o w l y s i f t i n Dermacryl LT, h e a t t o 80C. When complete, s i f t i n Neo He l iopan Hydro and Carbopol 940, mix u n t i l complete.

Phase A : Combine and h e a t t o 80C. Add Phase A t o Phase 0 a t 80C, mix

f o r 15-30 minu tes . Cool t o 40C. S l u r r y Dry-F lo PC i n Propy lene G l y c o l , add t o A and B a t 40C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add Phase D . Cool t o room tempera ture and package.

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co. : Formula 7520-1490

Combine T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 99% and De ion ized Water, h e a t t o 60C.

388 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

European O/W Sun Protection Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

Isohexadecane O c t y l Methoxyci n n i mate Cyclometh icone Ar lamol E Behenyl a l c o h o l Tocophe r o 1 A c e t a t e

B A r l a t o n e 2121 G l y c e r o l * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

C Xanthan gum

D *Perfume

*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s I

10.00 5 .00 5 . 0 0 2 . 8 0 1.20 2.00 5 .50

5 .50 4.00

62.85

0 . 1 0

Procedure:

D isperse ( C ) and (B) a t 75C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . Add heated ( A ) , ( E ) , and (F) t o m i x t u r e w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g . Homogen- i z e m i x t u r e between 75C and 65C and c o o l t o 40C w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g . Homogenize a t 30C t o 40C w i t h a d d i t i o n o f (D) .

M e l t A r l a t o n e 2121 and add t o remainder o f (B) a t 8OC.

O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA Benzo~henone-3 M i n e r a l o i l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721 B r i j 72 Dimeth icone

Water Carbomer 940

%w/w 7.00 3 .00 5.00 0.50 2.00 2 .00 0 .50

79.60 0 . 2 0

Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous) 0.20

* P r e s e r v a t i v e and Fragrance

*q .s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

72C. and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add ( C ) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add ( D ) and r e p l a c e water l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n . SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

D isperse Carbomer i n water and heat (B) t o 70C. Heat (A) t o

Sun Care Products 389

Lip Balm with Sunscreen-A

I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Pe t ro la tum C e t y l A l coho l Beeswax Carnauba Wax Para f f i n O z o k e r i t e C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) S t e a r y l D imeth icone (Ab i 1 Wax 9800) Capry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegosof t CT) Ce tea ry l Octanoate (Tegosof t L i q u i d ) M ine ra l O i l

Phase 8 : O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3

Phase C : Co lo r Fragrance

Lip Balm with Sunscreen-B

I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A : Pe t ro la tum C e t y l A1 coho1 Beeswax Carnauba Wax Para f f i n O z o k e r i t e C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) S t e a r y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9800) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegoso f t CT) Ce tea ry l Octanoate (Tegosoft L i q u i d ) M ine ra l O i l

Phase 8: O c t y l Methoxycinnamate Benzophenone-3

Phase C : Co lo r Fragrance

40 .7 4.0 6 . 0 6 . 4

1 6 . 4 6 . 0 1 . o 1 . o 5 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0

4 . 0 1 . 5

Q.S. Q.S.

w 44.5

6 . 0 14 .0

2 . 0 8 . 0 3 . 0 0 . 5 0 . 5 8 . 0 3 .0 5 . 0

4 .0 1 . 5

Q.S. Q.S.

Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A i n g r e d i e n t s t o g e t h e r u n t i l me l ted . Begin c o o l i n g . 2 . Add Phase B, mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . 3 . Add c o l o r and f ragrance when ba tch i s coo led t o a creamy

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons cons i s tency . 4 . Mold .

390 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Non-Chemical Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15)

T h i s l o t i o n i n c o r p o r a t e s t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e as t h e sunscreen agent . I t has a smooth f e e l upon a p p l i c a t i o n and r u b s i n e a s i l y w i t h o u t w h i t e n i n g . The Geahlene 750 adds t h i c k n e s s and may c o n t r i b u t e t o water r e s i s t a n c e and p r o d u c t s t a b i l i t y .

I n a r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A De ion ized Water

Magnesium Aluminum S i l i ca te /Veegum U l t r a Xanthan Gum/Kel t ro l Methy lparaben Tetrasodium EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220

0 M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Buty lene/Ethy lene/ S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Sty rene Copolymer//Geahlene 750

C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate /F inso lv TN T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e / M i c r o n i z e d T i 0 2 LA-20 Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 S t e a r i c Acid/Emersol 132 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e SE/Lexemul T DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol Propy lparaben

C Fragrance

Weiaht% 64.80

0 .80 0 .25 0.20 0.10

10.00 10 .00 6 .00 0 . 7 0 2 .50 2.00 2.50 0 .10 0 .05

Procedure: D i sperse Veegum U1 t r a i n r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d d e i o n i zed water .

M i x w e l l . Add K e l t r o l . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Heat t o 80C. Add remai n i ng p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s , Homogeni ze F i n s o l v TN and Mic ron- i z e d T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e u n t i l smooth. Add remain ing p a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Heat t o 80-85C. Mix u n t i l a l l t h e added s o l i d s a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h good a g i t a t i o n . Mix f o r 30 minu tes . u n t i l homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t C . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.

SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Sun Care Products 391

O/W After Sun Milk

I n q r e d i e n t s : %J& A Ar lamol S7 10.00

Ar lamol HD 8 . 0 0 B A r l a t o n e 2 21 2.00

A lpantha 0 . 5 0 G l y c e r o l 2.50 *Preserva t ve

C Water 76.78 Carbopol EDT 0 .07

D *NaOH (10% s o l u t i o n ) E Perfume 0.15

Procedure:

t h e A r l a t o n e 2121 i n t o t h e heated (C) phase w h i l e s t i r r i n g mod- e r a t e l y . Homogenise t h i s m i x t u r e u n t i l a homogeneous d i s p e r s i o n formed. Heat (A) t o 80C and add t o (B+C) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n - s i v e l y . Homogenise t h e m i x t u r e between 75 and 6%. A l l o w t o c o o l down t o 50C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (D) u n t i l pH o f 6 .5 t o 7 i s reached. Add ( E ) a t 40C w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

D isperse Carbopol i n water w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Heat t o 80C. M i x

W/O After Sun Cream

Inr r red i e n t s : A r l a c e l 582 A r l a t o n e T Magnesium s t e a r a t e Beeswax Candel i 11 a wax Ar lamol HD Sunf lower seed o i l a-Tocopherol a c e t a t e T e g i l o x a n 100 Oxynex K l i q u i d A e r o s i l R972 A t l a s G-2330 MgS04.7H20 A lpantha * P r e s e r v a t i v e Water Perfume D i n a l y a 129.051 * q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

m 2.50 0.50 0 .50 1 . 5 0 0.50

15.00 3 .00 1 . o o 0 .50 0 . 0 5 0.30 4 . 0 0 0.50 0 .50

69 I 45 0 .20

Procedure: M i x (A and 6 ) . Mix (C+D). Heat (A+B) and (C+D) s e p a r a t e l y

t o 75C. Add (C+D) t o (A+B) w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t e n s i v e l y . Homogen- i s e f o r 1 minu te . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 35C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Add (E ) w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Homogenise aga in f o r 1 minu te . Package.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

392 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Phase A: G1 y c e r i ne Glucamate SSE-20

O/W Cream (SPF 5)[UVA/UVB Ratio 0.9]

?$y& 5 .00 1.50

G l u c a t e SS 1 . 5 0 G l y c e r y l Monostearate 5.00 M y r i t o l 318 5 .00 S p e c t r a v e i l TG (60% s o l i d s d i s p e r s i o n ) 10 .00 Phase 0: Veegum Regular 1 . 5 0 Kel zan 0.30 Methy l Paraben 0.15 Demi n e r a l i sed water 69.60 Phase C: Germal l I 1 0.25 Perfume 0 . 2 0 Manufac ture : * Heat b o t h phases t o 65-70C m i x i n g w i t h h i g h shear m i x e r . * Add phase A t o phase B w i t h m i x i n g . * S t i r on t h e h i g h shear mixer a l l o w i n g p r o d u c t t o c o o l . * When below 60C add t h e Germal l 11. When below 40C add t h e

perfume * A t 35C s t o p s t i r r i n g and a l l o w t o c o o l . I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 4-6 I n - V i v o SPF Value: 5 .9

F o r m u l a t i o n Number 22 W/O Sun Protection Cream (SPF 15+)

[UVA/UVB Ratio 0.75]Phase A : DC200/100cs

%Jyfy 2 .00

E l f a c o s C26 5.00 E l f a c o s E200 2.00 E l f a c o s ST9 4.00 Cocoa B u t t e r 3 . 0 0 Propy l Paraben 0.08 Spect rave i 1 SO/MOTG (40% s o l i d s d i s p e r s i on) 25.00 Phase 0: Propy lene G l y c o l 5 .00 Methy l Paraben 0 .10 Demi n e r a l i sed water 53.82 Manufacture: * I n t o a s u i t a b l e vesse l weigh o u t t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f phase A

(except t h e E l f a c o s C26). B r i n g t h e tempera ture o f t h e o i l s s l o w l y t o 75C w i t h o c c a s i o n a l s t i r r i n g . The E l f a c o s C26 c o n s t i t u t e n t i s warmed t o 85C and added s e p a r a t e l y . * Pre-mix t h e Propylene G l y c o l and Methy l Paraben. Add t o t h e water , s t i r r i n g w e l l and heat t o 7%. * When b o t h phases a r e c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and a t 75-80C, add phase 6 t o phase A w h i l e m i x i n g w i t h a h i g h shear m i x e r . M ix f o r f i v e minu tes and t h e n commence c o o l i n g . * Cool t o approx imate ly 25C w i t h s low speed m i x i n g . * Mix b r i e f l y a t h i g h speed u n t i l smooth.

I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 17-21 I n - V i v o SPF Value: 20.5 F o r m u l a t i o n Number 24 SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . : SPECTRAVEIL Custom UV

P r o t e c t i o n

Sun Care Products 393

O/W Hydroalcoholic SunscreenI n n r e d i e n t s : ?&v&

C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 2 . 0 S t e a r y l A l coho l 2 . 0 M ine ra l O i l 3 . 5 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l 6 8839) 5 . 0 S tearoxy Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 2434) 1 . 5 I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t S ) 5 . 0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 4 . 0 Benzophenone-3 2 . 0 Phase B: Propy lene G1 y c o l 3 . 0 Carbomer 934 (1 .5% - NaOH N e u t r a l i z e d ) 0 . 3 Water 45 .7 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Phase C : SD A lcoho l 40A 20.0 Fragrance Q . S . Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . Heat t o 80C. 2 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase B. Heat t o 80C. 3 . Mix Phases A & 8. Cool t o 60C w h i l e m i x i n g . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y

4 . Cool t o 45C w i t h sweep m ix . 5 . Add Phase C. Rehomogenize. Cool t o 25C w i t h sweep m ix .

I n n r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : C e t y l D i methi cone Copol yo1 (and) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4

I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4 .0 C e t y l Dimethicone (Ab i 1 Wax 9801) 2 . 0 Po lye thy lene Wax 1 . o Benzophenone-3 2 . 0 O c t y l Sal i c y 1 a t e 3 .0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 2 . 0 Sesame O i l 1 . o I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t P) 3 .0 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t O S ) 3 . 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t OP) 2 . 5 Phase B : Water 71 . 4 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 Polyquaternium-10 0 .3 Germaben I 1 0 . 3 Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f rag rance . 4. Homogenize SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Fo rmu la t i ons BAM-1-97

Phase A : G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) Ceteth-20 ( T e g i n a c i d H) 4 .0

appearance a t a l l t i m e s . Homogenize.

W/O Sunscreen (SPF 17)

394 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Moisturizing Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA

M i n e r a l o i l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l B r i j 721 B r i j 72 D i meth i cone Water

B Carbomer 940

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous)

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s

w 5.00 5.00 0.50 2 .00 2.00 0 .50

84.60

0.20

0 .20

Procedure: D isperse Carbomer i n water and heat (B) t o 70C. Heat ( A ) t o

72C. and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S lowly add (C) and i n c r e a s e speed o f t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add (D) and r e p l a c e water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n .

W/O Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 186

Sorbo

B Ceres in wax Beeswax M i n e r a l o i l Sunscreen agent

C Water

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

w 3.00

27.00

1 . o o 1 .oo

11 .oo 6.00

51 . O O

Procedure: Add Sorbo t o A r l a c e l 186 s l o w l y w i t h cont inuous a g i t a t i o n .

Add (B ) t o ( A ) and h e a t t o 70C. Add ( C ) and mix t o a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n . Heat (D) t o 72C. and add t o (A,B,C) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool and m i l l t o improve smoothness and s h e l f l i f e .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions

Sun Care Products 395

1 . 2. 3. 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 . 10.

O/W Sunscreen Lotion

A-C Po lye thy lene 61 7 A-C Copolymer 540 Esca lo l 507 Dow 556 F l u i d Propylene G l y c o l D i p e l a rgonate Hydroxy01 Ethoxyo l 24 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

Wt.% 1 . o 1 . o 5 . 0 2 .0

10 .5 2 .0 1 . o 1 .3 1 . 8 0 .1

1 1 . S o r b i t o l 5 . 0 12.Carbopol 941 0 . 5 13.Germal l 115 0 . 4 14.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0.2 15. T r i e thano l ami ne 0 . 7 5 16. Water 68.45 Procedure:

D ispe rse Carbopol i n wa te r . Weigh 1-10 and hea t t o 80-9OC w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s t o Carbopo l /water d i s p e r s i o n , except t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and heat t o 80-9OC. Add t h e wax phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, then add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g w e l l . Cool t o 30C, add perfume, deaera te and package. Ref : 51 89-2-6

1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 . 6. 7 . 8 . 9 .

O/W Sunscreen Lotion

A-C Copolymer 580 D i s t i l l e d I s o p r o p y l Lano la te Esca lo l 507 Dow 556 F l u i d Propy lene G l y c o l D i p e l a rgonate Ethoxyo l 24 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate

Wt.36 2 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0 2 . 0

10 .0 1 . o 1 . o 2.0 0 . 1

10. So rb i t o 1 (70%) 5 .0 11 . Carb i t o 1 941 0 . 5 12 .T r ie thano lamine 0 . 7 5 13.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 0 . 2 14. Water 67.45 Procedure:

s low a g i t a t i o n . Add rema in ing i n g r e d i e n t s t o Carbopo l /water d i s p e r s i o n , except t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , and heat t o 80-9OC. Add t h e water phase t o t h e aqueous phase and shear i n homomixer. Cont inue shear ing w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 40C, t h e n add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , m i x i n g w e l l . Cool t o 30C, add perfume, de -ae ra te and package. Re f : 51 89-2-9

SOURCE: A l l i e d S igna l Inc. Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

D ispe rse Carbopol i n wa te r . Weigh 1-9 and heat t o 80-9OC w i t h

396 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Sunscreen Lotion

I n Q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Benzyl s a l i cy1 a t e Benzyl c i nnamate

* P r e s e r v a t i v e *q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 60C. Heat (B )

b u t g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Cool t o

B Water

%J@ 24.50

1.50 8 .50 2.00 2.00

61.50

t o 62C. Add (B ) t o (A) w i t h thorough 25C w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g .

O/W Sunscreen Lotion

I n q r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i l

C e t y l a1 coho1 A r l a c e l 60 Tween 60 Amyl para-d imethy laminobenzoate

* P r e s e r v a t i v e *q. s . t h e s e i ngred i e n t s .

Heat (A) t o 55C. and (B) t o 60C.

B Water

Procedure:

a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l c o o l .

%&!y 18.80

5 . 0 0 2.50 7 .50 1 .20

65.00

Add (B) t o (A) w i t h a g i t -

O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion

I n a r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l d i m e t h y l PABA

Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimeth icone A r l aso l ve 200 B r i j 72

Carbomer 934 B Water

C Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W/W aqueous) D * P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e

*q. s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s . Procedure:

D isperse Carbomer i n water and heat 72C. and add (B ) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r and i n c r e a s e speed of t h e a g i t a t i o n as r e p l a c e water l o s t b y e v a p o r a t i o n .

?&!y 5.00 7 .00 2.50 1 .oo 3.10 3 .90

77.10 0.20 0 .20

( 8 ) t o 70C. Heat (A) t o a g i t a t i o n . S l o w l y add (C) needed. Add ( D ) and

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions

Sun Care Products 397

Phase A : A r l a c e l 165 S t e a r y l A l coho l Span 60 Tween 60 Pe t ro la tum DC200/350 Sweet Almond O i 1 M i n e r a l O i l

O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 12)

5.00 0 . 5 0 0 .50 0 . 9 0 3 .00 1 .00 5 .00 8 .00

Eveni ng Pr imrose O i 1 0 .50

Phase B : Dei o n i zed water S o r b i c A c i d G1 y c e r i ne T i o v e i l AQ K e l t r o l

Phase C : Deion i sed water Bronopol

56.76 0 . 2 0 5 .00

12 .50 0 . 1 0

1 . o o 0.04

Manufacture: * Heat t h e d e i o n i s e d wa te r , s o r b i c a c i d and g l y c e r i n e t o 75C,

* S p r i n k l e i n t h e K e l t r o l and homogenise u n t i l t h i s i s f u l l y s t i r r i n g o c c a s i o n a l l y u n t i l a l l t h e s o r b i c a c i d has d i s s o l v e d .

d i s p e r s e d . ( o r : padd le s t i r f o r 1 hour t o h y d r a t e t h e Kel t r o l ) . M a i n t a i n t e m e r a t u r e a t 75C. * Add t h e - T i o v e i l AQ and' homogenise b r i e f l y . * Heat phase A t o 75C. * Add A t o B and homogenise f o r a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e .

* Add phase C a t 40C. Con t inue c o o l i n g w i t h s t i r r

I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 1 2 - 1 5

SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . : TIOVEIL Phys ica

t o c o o l . Paddle s t i r

ng t o 25C.

Sunscreen

398 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15) Phase 4: w DC 593 f l u i d 7.00 M i n e r a l o i l 6 .00 Crodamol ML 2.00 C e t y l a1 coho1 2 . 0 0 GMS/SE 1.20 Eumulgin 82 0 .40 S t e a r i c a c i d 1 - 0 0 Propylparaben 0 . 0 5 Phase B: Dei o n i sed wa te r 58.45 G1 yce r i ne 1 . o o T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 1 - 0 0 A loe v e r a g e l 1O: l 0 .50 Methy lparaben 0 .15 T i o v e i 1 AQ 18.75 Perfume 0.20 Germal l 115 0 . 3 0 Manufacture: * Heat phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 70-75C. * Add phase A t o phase 0 and homogenize f o r a p p r o p r i a t e t i m e . * Cool down t o 50C w i t h s low s t i r r i n g , t h e n add perfume * Con t inue c o o l i n g w i t h s t i r r i n g . Add Germal l a t 35C. S top

s t i r r i n g a t 30C. I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 17-21 I n - V i v o SPF Value: 17 .6 V i s c o s i t y : 60000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d LVT, S p i n d l e E, 3 rpm)

Fo rmu la t i on Number 9

O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 10) Phase A : %w/w I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e 4.00 M i n e r a l o i l 6 .50 Grape seed o i l 2 .50 S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 1 . o o Pe t ro la tum 2 .00 T i o v e i l MOTG 5 .00 Phase B: Deion i sed wa te r 62.90 G r i 11 o t e n LSE87K 0 .10 G r i l l o t e n PSE141G 6 . 0 0 G1 y c e r i ne 4 .00 A1 1 a n t o i n 0 .20 d-Panthenol 0 .80 Phase C : T i o v e i l AQ 5 .00 Phase D:

Manufacture: * Heat A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 80C. * Add A t o 8, s t i r r i n g i n t e n -

* A l l o w t o c o o l f o r 25C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . Add D.

Fo rmu la t i on Number 18 SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d , : T I O V E I L Phys i ca l Sunscreens

P rese rva t i ve qs

s i v e l y . Add C w i t h i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g . * Homogenize

I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 12-15 V i s c o s i t y : 144 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d )

Sun Care Products 399

O/W Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 15)

Phase A : O c t y l P a l m i t a t e Crodamol CAP 0c200/100cs Oxynex 2004 Whi te Beeswax Phase B: A r l a t o n e 2121 K e l t r o l RD Veeaum U l t r a

%w/w 5 . 0 0 5 . 0 0 3 .00 0 . 0 5 3 .50

5 . 5 0 0 .20 0 .80

Sodium L a c t a t e (70% s o l n . ) 0 .30 Demi n e r a l i sed water 61 - 6 5 T i o v e i l AQ 15.00 P rese rva t i ves qs Manufacture: * M i x wa te r and sodium l a c t a t e and h e a t t o 80C * M e l t A r l a t o n e 2121 and add t h i s t o t h e h o t wa te r phase w i t h

* D ispe rse K e l t r o l and Veegum i n t h e h o t water phase * Add T i o v e i l AO w i t h v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g * Heat phase A t o 75-80C, u n t i l f u l l y m e l t e d and homogeneous. * Heat phase A t o phase B w i t h h igh -shear m i x i n g . * Cool w i t h moderate s t i r r i n g t o 3OC.Homogenize b r i e f l y when c o l d

Formul a t i on Number 19

v i g o r o u s s t i r r i n g

I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 15-19 V i s c o s i t y : 49680 mPas

W/O Sunscreen Lotion (SPF 20)

Phase A : %VJ& A b i l EM90 2.00 M i n e r a l o i l 5 . 0 0 Ar lamol HD 5 . 0 0 C a p r y l i c - c a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e 5 . 0 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e 8 .00 Ar lamol 53 5 . 0 0 Naturechem GMHS 0 .80 Lunacera M 1 . 2 0 Phase B: Demi n e r a l i sed wa te r 47.50 Sodi um C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 0 P r e s e r v a t i v e qs Phase C : T i o v e i l MOTG 20.00 Manufacture: * Heat phases A and B s e p a r a t e l y t o 75C * Heat phase C t o >60C * S l o w l y add B t o A w i t h i n t e n s i v e s t i r r i n g * Add C w i t h i n t e n -

s i v e s t i r r i n g * Cool t o 25-30'2, m a i n t a i n i n g t h e same s t i r r e r speed * Homogenize

F o r m u l a t i o n Number 20

SOURCE: T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . : TIOVEIL P h y s i c a l Sunscreens

I n - V i t r o SPF Value: 20-24 V i s c o s i t y : 2000 mPas ( B r o o k f i e l d )

400 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion(Indicative SPF 8)*

I n a r e d i e n t s : A) Pa rso l MCX

Parso l 1789 P a r s o l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monomyri s t a t e Ganex V-220 C e t y l A l coho l E x t r a Dermol 185 Amphisol K Edeta BD B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy to luene Phenoni p

Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n Propy lene G l y c o l

C) KOH 10% sol ' n D ) De ion i zed Water

Pa rso l HS KOH 10% s o l ' n

E ) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e F ) Panthenol G) P a r f e x 49915

B) De ion ized Water

% w / w 2.00 1 . o o 0 . 6 0 4.00 2 . 0 0 1 .00

1 0 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 .10 0 .05 0 . 6 0

34.93 1 0 . 0 0

5 .00 0 . 6 4

20.00 0 . 6 0 1 .08 2 .00 2.00 0 .40* *

Procedure: Heat p a r t A) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add

p a r t s B ) and C) p re -hea ted t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D) pre-heated t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g (be s u r e t h a t t h e Parso l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s remain, add a sma l l q u a n t i t y o f n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add p a r t s E ) , F ) and G) . Compensate f o r wa te r l o s s and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o ambient t empera tu re .

Remark: *SPF d e t e r m i n a t i o n : I R I Ref . 582627. Tes t method based on

FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h s i x s u b j e c t s .

The f i n a l pH v a l u e shou ld be around 7 . 0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y - s t a l l i z a t i o n o f Pa rso l HS

* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens.

SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure: Fo rmu la t i on 38 COS 085

Sun Care Products 401

O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion (Indicative SPF 25+)*

I n a r e d i e n t s : A) Pa rso l MCX

Parsol 1789 Parso l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monomyri s t a t e Ganex V-220 C e t y l A l coho l E x t r a Dermol 185 Amphisol K Edeta BD B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy to luene Phenoni p

Carbopol 981 1% s o l ' n P ropy lene G1 y c o l

B ) De ion i zed Water

C) KOH 10% s o l ' n D) De ion ized Water

Pa rso l HS KOH 10% sol I n

E ) V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e F) Panthenol G) P e r f e x 49915

Procedure: Heat D a r t A ) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n a When homoneneous,

5 .50 2 .50 2 .00 4.00 2 .00 1 . o o

10.00 2.00 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 5 0 .60

24.61 10 .00

5 . 0 0 0.64

20.00 2 . 0 0 3 .60 2 . 0 0 2.00 0.40**

add p a r t s B) and C) pre-heated t o 756, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D ) p re -hea ted t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g (be su re t h a t t h e Parso l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s remain, add a sma l l q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add P a r t s E ) , F ) , and G). Compensate f o r water l o s s and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o ambient t empera tu re .

Remark : *SPF d e t e r m i n a t i o n : I R I Re f . 582627. Tes t method based on

FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h f i v e s u b j e c t s . * * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens.

The f i n a l pH v a l u e shou ld be around 7 . 0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s - t a l l i z a t i o n o f Pa rso l HS.

SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure: Formula 38 COS 087

402 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

O/W Vitaminized Broad Spectrum Sunscreen Lotion (Indicative SPF 15)*

I n g r e d i e n t s : A ) Pa rso l MCX

Parso l 1789 Parso l 5000 G l y c e r y l Monomyr is ta te Ganex V-220 C e t y l A l coho l E x t r a Dermol 185 Amphisol K Edeta BD B u t y l a t e d Hydroxy to luene Phenoni p Dei o n i zed Water Carbopol 981 1% so l ' n Propy lene G1 y c o l KOH 10% s o l ' n Dei o n i zed Water Pa rso l HS KOH 10% sol'n V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e Panthenol P a r f e x 49915

3.30 1 . 5 0 1 .20 4 . 0 0 2.00 1 . o o

10.00 2.00 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 5 0 . 6 0

30.86 1 0 . 0 0

5 . 0 0 0 . 6 4

20.00 1 . 2 0 2.15 2 .00 2.00 0.40**

Procedure: Heat p a r t A ) t o 85C w h i l e s t i r r i n g . When homogeneous, add

p a r t s B) and C ) pre-heated t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g . Add p a r t D) pre-heated t o 75C, w h i l e m i x i n g (be s u r e t h a t t h e Parso l HS has been c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d , i f t r a c e s remain, add a sma l l q u a n t i t y o f t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g base u n t i l t h e s o l u t i o n i s c l e a r ) . Cool t o 40C, add p a r t s E) , F ) and G) . Compensate for water loss and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o ambient t empera tu re .

Remark: *SPF d e t e r m i n a t i o n : I R I Ref . 582627. Tes t method based on

FDA/OTC c o n d i t i o n s w i t h s i x s u b j e c t s .

The f i n a l pH v a l u e shou ld be around 7.0 t o p r e v e n t r e c r y s t a l l i z a t i o n o f P a r s o l HS.

* * D e r m a t o l o g i c a l l y t e s t e d perfume f o r sunscreens.

SOURCE: Givaudan-Roure: F o r m u l a t i o n 38 COS 086

Sun Care Products 403

Solar Tanning Cream

Water Phase: Water Carbomer 934

O i l Phase: Pro tox T-25 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Coconut O i l #76 Jo joba Oi 1 Rosswax 1824 E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance Germaben I 1 T r i e thano l ami ne

P a r t 0v Weisht S o f t

427.9 3.0

1 . o 4 .0 4 .0

16.0 4.0

12.0 25.0

q . S . 5 . 0 4 . 4

Procedure: D isperse t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r . I n a second vesse l

heat t h e O i l Phase i n c l u d i n g t h e E s c a l o l 507 u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r . When b o t h phases a r e ready add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase, add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , f r a g r a n c e and add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed you may package.

Solar Tanning Cream

Water Phase: Water Carbomer 934

O i l Phase: Pro tox T-25 Rosswax 573 GMS SE Coconut O i l #76 Jo joba O i l Rosswax 1824 E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance Germaben I 1 T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

P a r t s b y Weiaht Hard

410.0 3.0

1 . o 4.0 4 . 0

16.0 4.0

12 .0 25.0

q . s . 4.8 4 . 4

Procedure: D isperse t h e Carbomer 934 i n t h e w a t e r . I n a second vesse l

heat t h e O i l Phase i n c l u d i n g t h e E s c a l o l 507 u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y c l e a r . When b o t h phases a r e ready add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase, add t h e p r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance and add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e under h i g h a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed you may package. SOURCE: Frank 0. Ross Co,, Inc. : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

404 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Solar Tanning CreamHigh Protection

P a r t ( A ) : Water Carbomer 934

P a r t ( B ) : P r o t o x T 25 Rosswax 573 Rosswax 1824 Ross Jo joba O i 1

Coconut O i l #76 E s c a l o l 507 E s c a l o l 567

P a r t ( C ) : Germaben I1

P a r t (0): Fragrance

P a r t ( E ) : T r i e thano l ami ne

GMS-SE

!?i 79.9

0 . 6

0 .2 0 . 8 2 .0 0 . 8 0 . 8 3 .0 7 .0 3 .0

1 . o

4 , s .

0 . 9

Procedure:

omer 934 under a g i t a t i o n . Heat P a r t (B ) i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e u n t 1 c l e a r under a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed add P a r t ( 8 ) t o Par ( A ) under a g i t a t i o n . Then add P a r t ( C ) and mix t h o r o u g h l y Next add P a r t ( D ) and f i n a l l y add P a r t (E) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 120F and package.

Heat t h e water i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e Carb-

Tanning Jelly

P e t r o l a t u m USP M i n e r a l O i l #7 Henkel C u t i na-LM Ross Jo joba O i 1 E s c a l o l 507 Propy l Paraben Fragrance

3 49.0 20.0 23.9

2 .0 5.0 0 . 1 q . s .

Procedure: Load i n g r e d i e n t s i n steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and m e l t t o a

l i q u i d s t a t e under a g i t a t i o n . When t h o r o u g h l y mixed, coo l t o 130F, f r a g r a n c e and package.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . R o s s Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products 405

Solar Tanning CreamSuper Protection

P a r t ( A ) : Water Carbomer 934 P a r t (B) : Pro tox T 25 Rosswax 573 Rosswax 1824 Ross Jo joba O i 1

Coconut O i l #76 E s c a l o l 507 E s c a l o l 567 E s c a l o l 557 P a r t (C): Germaben I 1 P a r t ( D ) : Fragrance P a r t (E): T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

GMS-SE

% 69 .1

0 . 6

0 .2 0 . 8 2 .0 1 . o 0 . 8 3 . 2 8 . 0 4 .5 7 . 5

1 .o

q . s .

0.9

Procedure:

Carbomer 934 under a g i t a t i o n . Heat P a r t (B ) i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e u n t i l c l e a r under a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed add P a r t (B ) t o P a r t (A) under a g i t a t i o n . Then add P a r t ( C ) and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Next add P a r t (D) and f i n a l l y add P a r t (E) w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 120F and package.

Heat t h e waxes i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e and add t h e

Jojoba After Sun Lotion

P a r t A : M i n e r a l O i l 60/70 Modul an Rosswax 63-0412 Propy l ene G1 y c o l Ross Jo joba O i 1 P a r t 8 : Water A l o e Vera L i q u i d T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e Fragrance Germaben I 1

36 8 . 5 5 .0 7 .6 2 . 3 1 .7

69 .7 3.3 1 .2 q . s . 1 . o

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . When tempera ture i s reached, mix P a r t ( A ) t o P a r t (B ) and c o o l . Package i n c o n t a i n e r s a t below 120F.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

M e l t P a r t ( A ) and P a r t ( B ) i n separa te v e s s e l s t o 170F under

406 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Solar Tanning Lotion-A

P a r t I: Water Carbomer 934

P a r t 11: Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507

P a r t 111: Fragrance

P a r t IV: Gerrnaben I 1

P a r t V: T r i e thano l ami ne

Solar Tanning Lotion-B

P a r t I: Water Carborner 934

P a r t 11: Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507

P a r t 111: Fragrance

P a r t IV: Germaben I 1

P a r t V: T r i e thano l ami ne

P a r t s bv Wei q h t 568.0

2 . 0

4 .0 4 . 0 4 . 0

13.0

4 . s .

6 . 0

4.0

P a r t s by Wei q h t 568.0

2 . 0

4 . 0 4 . 0 4 . 0

1 9 . 0

q . s .

6 . 0

4.0

Procedure:

separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . As soon as e v e r y t h i n g i s m e l t e d add P a r t I 1 t o P a r t I w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Then add P a r t I11 and P a r t IV w i t h i n c r e a s e d a g i t a t i o n ; t h e n add T r i t h a n o l ami ne. Cool t o 130F and package.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : SUQQeSted Formula t ions

Heat t h e water w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carborner 934. I n a

Sun Care Products 407

P a r t I Water Carbomer 934

P a r t 1 1 : Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507

P a r t 111 : Fragrance

P a r t IV: Germaben I 1

P a r t V: T r i e thano l ami ne

P a r t I: Water Carbomer 934

P a r t 11: Rosswax 573 GMS SE Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507

P a r t 111: Fragrance

P a r t IV: Germaben I 1

P a r t V: T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

Solar Tanning Lotion-C

P a r t s by Wei a h t 568.0

2.0

4 . 0 4.0 4 . 0

25 .0

q . s .

6.0

4.0

Solar Tanning Lotion-D

568.0 2.0

4.0 4 .0 4 . 0

32.0

q . s .

6.0

4 . 0

Procedure:

separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t P a r t I 1 u n t i l c l e a r . A s soon as e v e r y t h i n g i s me l ted add P a r t I 1 t o P a r t I w i t h a g i t - a t i o n . Then add P a r t I 1 1 and P a r t IV w i t h i n c r e a s e d a g i t a t i o n ; t h e n add T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e . Cool t o 130F and package.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . R o s s C o . , I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Heat the water w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a

408 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Solar Tanning LotionHigh Protection

Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 573 Gms SE Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507

P a r t s by Wei q h t 517.0

2 . 0 3 . 6 3 . 6

42 .0 1 8 . 0

Germaben I 1 6 . 0

Fragrance q . s .

T r i e thano l ami ne 3 . 6

Procedure:

separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase t i l l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Now add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n , add t h e Germaben 1 1 , f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n . Next c o o l t o 130F and package .

Heat t h e water w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a

Solar Tanning LotionSuper Protection

Water Carbomer 934 Rosswax 2540

Whi te Jo joba O i 1 E s c a l o l 507 E s c a l o l 567 E s c a l o l 557 Germaben I 1 Fragrance T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

GMS-SE

P a r t s by Weight 381.5

1 . 5 3 . 0 3 . 0 3 . 0

40 .0 22.5 3 7 . 5

5 . 0 q . s 3 . 6

Procedure: Heat t h e water i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e w i t h a g i t a t i o n and

add t h e Carbomer 934. I n a separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase u n t i l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n . Now add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase w i t h a g i t a t i o n , t h e n t h e Germaben 1 1 , t h e n t h e Fragrance and f i n a l l y add t h e T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w i t h h i g h a g i t - a t i o n . Next c o o l t o 130F and package.

SOURCE: Frank 8 , Ross C o . , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

Sun Care Products 409

Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow Corn ing #344 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 A c e t u l an Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance

Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow Corn ing #344 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 Acetu lan Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance

Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow Corn ing #344 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 A c e t u l an Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance

Cocoanut O i l #76 Dow Corn ing #344 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e M i n e r a l O i l #7 Acetu lan Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507 Fragrance

Solar Tanning Oil-A

Solar Tanning Oil-B

Solar Tanning Oil-C

Solar Tanning Oil-D

% 15.0 16.0 1 3 . 0 42 .0

8 .0 2 .0 2.0 2 . 0 Q . S .

% 14.0 16.0 13.0 42.0

8 .0 2.0 2 . 0 3.0 9 . s .

% 13.0 16.0 13.0 42.0

8 .0 2.0 2 . 0 4 . 0 q . s

% 12.0 16.0 13.0 42.0

8 .0 2 .0 2 . 0 5 . 0 Q . S .

Procedure:

r u n t h r u a f i l t e r and package.

SOURCE: Frank B. R o s s C o . , I n c . : Sugoested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Mix a l l o f t h e above i n g r e d i e n t s i n a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l v e s s e l ,

410 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Solar Tanning StickWhite Color

Rosswax 26-1 152 Rosswax 1641 Rosswax 1824 M i n e r a l O i l #7 Dow S i l i c o n e 344 I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e Coconut O i l #76 A c e t u l an Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507

Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e

% 15.0 15.0 20.0 17.5 8.0 6.5 5.0 4.0 2.0 2.0 5.0

q . s . q . s .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n u n t i l me l ted . Cool t o j u s t b e f o r e c loudy , add p r e s e r v a t i v e s . Mold i n c o n t a i n e r s . (Note: Capping may be necessary ) .

Load t h e waxes and t h e o i l s i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , under

Solar Tanning StickTan Color

Rosswax 26-1152 Rosswax 1824 M i n e r a l O i l #7 Dow S i l i c o n e 344 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e Coconut O i l #76 Acetu 1 an Glucam P-20 Jo joba O i l E s c a l o l 507

Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e

% 30.0 20.0 17.5 8.0 6.5 5.0 4.0 2.0 2.0 5.0

q . s . q . s .

Procedure: Heat t h e waxes and t h e o i l i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o

175F under a g i t a t i o n . When mixed f u l l y , c o o l t o j u s t b e f o r e c loudy , and add Fragrance and P r e s e r v a t i v e . Mold i n c o n t a i n e r s . (Note: Capping may be necessary ) .

SOURCE: Frank B. Ross Co., Inc.: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products 411

Sun Block Soft Cream (O/W) Tested SPF 26

I n q r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165

Eumulgin B 2 L a n e t t e 0 M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l OE A b i l 100 Ben Neo Neo Neo Neo c u t

B Dem Vee

one Gel M I 0 Hel iopan, Type OS He l iopan, Type AV He l iopan, Type E 1000 He l iopan, Type MBC na CBS

n e r a l i zed water

% ( w / w ) 3 .00 1 . o o 2 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 3.00 3.00 5 .00 5.00 1 . 5 0 2 . 0 0

31 .70 um u l t r a 1 . o o

G l y c e r i n 86% 3.00 Phenoni p 0.50 Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro; used as a 15% s o l u t i o n 20 .00

Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R 10.00 n e u t r a l i zed w i t h s o d i um h y d r o x i de ( a c t i v e : 3.00%)

C Perfume o i l n .30

M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A: Heat up t o 75C w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . P a r t B:

Heat t h e water t o 9OC. D isperse t h e Veegurn i n t h e water d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add t h e o t h e r i n g r e d i e n t s and d i s p e r s e t h e Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R i n t h e s o l u t i o n . Put P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . P a r t C :

emu1 s i on. A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A / B and homogenize t h e

The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be approx. 7 .5 and has t o be checked.

SOURCE: Haarman 81 Reimer: FormulatSon K 18/2-21302/E

412 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Filter Foam

A . M i g l y o l 840 M i g l y o l 812 S o f t i s a n 649 S o f t i g e n 767 S o f t i g e n 701 C e t y l a1 coho1 S t e a r i c a c i d T r ie thano lamine Neo He l iopan E 1000

9. Perfume Water

1 0 . 0 5 . 0 1 . o 1 . 5 0 . 5 1 . o 4 .0 2 . 0 3 .0

qs t o 100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

e m u l s i f i e d i n and perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t 30C. A l l components under A . a r e heated t o 70-75C. Water i s t hen

Aeroso l f i 11 i ng: 90% A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t 10% D r i v o s o l 27

After Sun Stick

A .

B .

S o f t i g e n 767 Sodi um s t e a r a t e G l y c e r o l Sugar D-Panthenol, 50% A1 1 a n t o i n Water

Perfume Ethano l 96% P r e s e r v a t i v e

40 .0 8 . 0

1 0 . 0 8 . 0 6 . 0 0 .2

24 .4

0 .1 3 .3

u s

P r e p a r a t i o n :

60C, t h e mix i s s t i r r e d , 8 . b e i n g added a t approx. 40C, and when c o l d i t i s c a s t i n t o moulds.

SOURCE: Hu ls A m e r i c a I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons for Cosmet ics : Formulas

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e me l ted and d i s s o l v e d a t approx.

Sun Care Products 413

Sun Protection Lotion

T h i s medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n u t i l i z e s a s y n e r g i s t i c Veegum/ Rhodigel b l e n d t o h e l p s t a b i l i z e t h e emuls ion and mod i fy t h e v i s c o s i t y . I n a d d i t i o n , t h i s f o r m u l a i n c o r p o r a t e s A-C 617G p o l y e t h y l e n e t o p r o v i d e a l u x u r i o u s a f t e r f e e l and improve t h e water r e s i s t a n c e o f t h e sun p r o t e c t i o n f i l m . T h i s p r o d u c t i s des igned t o have an SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f about 15.

I n n r e d i e n t : Veegum Rhodi g e l G l y c e r i n De ion ized Water

A-C 61 7G P o l y e t h y l e n e G l y c e r y l Monostearate, SE ( 2 ) D i o c t y l Ma la te ( 3 ) C e t y l A lcoho l M i n e r a l O i l S teare th-2 ( 4 ) S teare th-20 ( 5 ) Benzophenone-3 ( 6 ) O c t y l Dimethy l PABA ( 7 )

P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance

( 2 ) Kessco G l y c e r o l Monostearate S.E. ( 3 ) Ceraphyl 45 ( 4 ) B r i j 72 ( 5 ) B r i j 78 ( 6 ) E s c a l o l 567 ( 7 ) E s c a l o l 507

% bv W t . 1 . o o 0.20 5 .50

68 .80

2.00 3 .OQ 2 . 0 0 0.50 4 .00 0 . 3 0 2.70 3.00 7 . 0 0

q . s .

P r e p a r a t i o n : Dry b l e n d Veegum and Rhod ige l . Add Veegum/Rhodigel b l e n d t o

water p reheated t o 85-9OC. Hydra te u s i n g maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and f r e e o f und ispersed p a r t i c l e s . Add g l y c e r i n and m a i n t a i n tempera ture a t 85-9OC. I n a separa te con- t a i n e r , add a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s and h e a t t o 85-9OC u n t i l a l l com- ponents a r e i n a l i q u i d s t a t e . S t i r g e n t l y as necessary. S l o w l y add B t o A and homogenize f o r 5 minu tes . Cool emuls ion q u i c k l y t o room tempera ture w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Consis tency:

tempera ture : 1500-1900 cps.

Suggested Packaging: P l a s t i c b o t t l e s o r t u b e s . Comments :

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s des igned t o serve as a gu ide f o r t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R.T, V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Formula No. 444

F lowab le L i q u i d ; V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days a t room

414 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Protection Lotion

T h i s medium v i s c o s i t y l o t i o n u t i l i z e s a s y n e r g i s t i c Veegum/ Rhodigel b l e n d t o h e l p s t a b i l i z e t h e emuls ion and mod i fy t h e v i s c o s i t y . It i s des igned t o have an SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f about 15.

I n q r e d i e n t : Veegum Rhodi g e l G l y c e r i n De ion ized Water

G l y c e r y l Monostearate, SE ( 2 ) D i o c t y l Ma la te ( 3 ) C e t y l A lcoho l M i n e r a l O i l S t e a r e t h - 2 ( 4 ) S teare th-20 ( 5 ) Benzophenone-3 (6 ) O c t y l Dimethy l PABA ( 7 )

P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance

( 2 ) Kessco G l y c e r o l Monostearate S . E . ( 3 ) Ceraphyl 45 ( 4 ) B r i j 72 ( 5 ) B r i j 78 ( 6 ) E s c a l o l 567 ( 7 ) E s c a l o l 507

% bv W t . 1 .oo 0 .20 5.50

70.80

3 .00 2.00 0.50 4.00 0.30 2.70 3.00 7 .00

Q . S .

P r e p a r a t i o n : Dry b l e n d Veegum and Rhod ige l . Add Veegum/Rhodigel b l e n d t o

water p reheated t o 75 t o 85C. Hydra te u s i n g maximum a v a i l a b l e shear u n t i l smooth, u n i f o r m and f r e e o f und ispersed p a r t i c l e s . Add g l y c e r i n and m a i n t a i n tempera ture a t 75 t o 85C. I n a sep- a r a t e c o n t a i n e r , add a l l B i n g r e d i e n t s and heat t o 75 t o 85C u n t i l a l l components a r e i n a l i q u i d s t a t e . S t i r g e n t l y as necessary. S l o w l y add B t o A and homogenize f o r 5 minu tes . Cool emuls ion t o room tempera ture w i t h g e n t l e s t i r r i n g . Add C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m .

Cons is tency : F lowable 1 i q u i d ; V i s c o s i t y measured a f t e r 30 days a t room tempera ture : 750 t o 1000 cps

Comments: T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmula i s des igned t o serve as a gu ide f o r

t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R U T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Formula No. 446

Sun Care Products 41 5

Sunscreen with Amihope An e l e g a n t sunscreen o f about SPF-15 u s i ng m i c r o n i zed T i t a n i urn

D i o x i d e . A m i hope LL p r o v i d e s i mproved spreadabi 1 i t y and an exce l 1 e n t a f t e r f e e l , I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: % by Weight P a r t A : De ion ized Water 64 .30

S y n t h e t i c H e c t o r i t e 0 .80 D i sod i um EDTA 0.10 G1 yce r i n 6 . 0 0

P a r t B: C12-15 A l k y l Benzoate 15.00 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 6 .50 C e t e a r y l A l coho l (and) Ceteare th-20 5 . 0 0 PEG-80 S o r b i t a n Laura te 1 . o o

P a r t C : Lau roy l Lysine/Amihope LL 1 .oo

B u t y l paraben 0.10 P a r t D: I sop ropy lpa raben (and) I s o b u t y l p a r a b e n (and)

DMDM Hydanto in (and) Iodopropyny l Buty lcarbamate 0 .20

8OC. Add rema in ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , homogeni ze t h e C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate and T i t a n i um D i o x i d e u n t i 1 smooth. Add remai n i ng p a r t B i ngred i e n t s . Heat t o 8OC. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . M ix a t 80C f o r 30 minu tes u n t i l smooth and u n i f o r m . Cool t o 70C. Add p a r t D . M ix w e l l . (Homogenize t o ensure comple te d i s p e r s i o n . ) Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t E . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 35C.

D ispe rse t h e S y n t h e t i c H e c t o r i t e i n d e i o n i z e d wa te r . Heat t o

Appearance: O f f - w h i t e , smooth, v i s c o u s cream pH: 7 .20-7 .80 V i s c o s i t y : 30,000-36,000 cps ( B r o o k f i e l d #6 @ l O r p m @ 25C)

W/O SPF20 Sunscreen with ElderI n a r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: % by Weight P a r t A : S t e a r i c A c i d T r i p l e Pressed 4.00 C e t y l A1 coho1 1 .oo DEA-Cetyl Phosphate/Amphisol 2 .00 Dimethicone(and)Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dow Corn ing 593 5 .00 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX 7.50 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 6 . 0 0 O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 5 .00 Oc ty ldodecy l Neopentanoate/Elefac 1-205 5 . 0 0 Methylparaben (and) Bu ty lpa raben (and) E thy lparaben

D i ( c h o l e s t e r y l , beheny l , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N-Lauroyl-L- G lu tamic A c i d es ter /E ldew CL-301 5 .00

P a r t B: De ion ized Water 57.75 Sodium Carbomer/PNC 400 0.25 P a r t C : D i a z o l i d i n y l Urea/Germall I 1 0.30 De ion ized Water 1 . o o

Combine p a r t A and hea t t o 75 degrees Cen t ig rade w i t h m i x i n g . Heat d e i o n i z e d water o f p a r t B t o 75 degrees C. D isperse PNC 400 i n t o t h e water w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m ge l i s formed. Add p a r t A t o p a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g . Ho ld a t 75 degrees f o r 15 minu tes . Cool t o 40 degrees C and add premixed p a r t C w i t h c o n t i n u e d m i x i n g . Cool t o 30 degrees C . SOURCE: A j i n o m o t o USA, Inc.: Suggested Formulations

(and) Propy lparaben/N ipas ta t 0 . 2 0

416 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Balm, (Cold Processing) SPF 8 (DIN 67501)*

I n q r e d i e n t s : Demi n e r a l i zed water

%(w/w) 72,900

E t h y l a l c o h o l (96 v o l . % ) denatured 8; 500 T r i l o n B l i q u i d D-Panthenol Germal l 115 Phenoni p Carbopol 940

Sodium hyd rox ide (10% aq

1 ,2-Propy lene g l y c o l Cremogen A loe Vera

Neo He l i opan , Type AV Bays i l one F l u i d PK 20 B i s a b o l o l Perfume O i l

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r :

s o l u t i on)

0,100 0,500 0,200 0 ,300 0,500

2,200

3,000 2,000

6,500 3 ,000 0,100 0 ,200

Tes ted mean SPF 8 . 2 acco rd ing t o t h e German D I N 67501 method.

Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A :

a l c o h o l and wa te r . Then s l o w l y add under s t i r r i n g Carbopol 940 and c o n t i n u e u n t i l comp le te l y d i spe rsed .

P a r t B:

r a l i z a t i o n . A t r a n s p a r e n t h i g h v i s c i d g e l w i l l be formed.

P a r t C :

gen A loe Vera i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A/B.

P a r t D :

i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A / B / C .

D i s s o l v e T r i l o n B, Panthenol and Germal l 115 i n t h e m i x t u r e o f

Add s l o w l y t h e sodium hyd rox ide s o l u t i o n t o p a r t A f o r neu t -

Success i ve l y add w i t h s t i r r i n g p ropy lene g l y c o l and Cremo-

B lend t h e i n g r e d i e n t s and add t h e m i x t u r e w i t h s t i r r i n g

A f t e r complete m i x i n g i t i s necessary t o pass t h e d i s p e r s i o n th rough a homogenizer ( c o l l l o i d m i l l ) .

The Sunscreen Balm c o n t a i n s no emu1 s i f i e r .

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on K 18/5-51132 A / €

Sun Care Products 41 7

Sunscreen Cream

I l l u s t r a t e s t h e use o f Veegum Pro as a suspending agent and v i s c o s i t y m o d i f i e r . Veegum Pro e f f e c t i v e l y t h i c k e n s and s t a b i l - i z e s t h e emuls ion even a t e l e v a t e d tempera tu res . T h i s l o t i o n has an es t ima ted SPF o f 12 and has a l i g h t f e e l w i t h q u i c k , grease- l e s s r u b - i n . Benzophenone-3 i s a UV-A absorber f o r p r o t e c t i o n a g a i n s t t a n n i ng r a d i a t i o n . O c t y l Methoxyci nnamate i s a UV-B absorber f o r p r o t e c t i o n agai n s t b u r n i ng r a d i a t i on.

I n q r e d i e n t : A Veegum Pro

Water Propy lene g l y c o l T r ie thano lamine

B Benzophenone-3 ( 1 ) C12-15 A l c o h o l s Benzoate ( 2 ) O c t y l Methoxycinnamate ( 3 ) M i n e r a l O i l (and) L a n o l i n A l coho l ( 4 ) S t e a r i c a c i d XXX C18-36 A c i d ( 5 ) G l y c o l S t e a r a t e SE ( 6 ) C e t y l a l c o h o l

I bv W t . 1 . 5

67.7 3 . 0 0 . 6

5 . 0 7 . 5 7 .5 4 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 2 0 . 5 0 . 5

C P r e s e r v a t i v e , Dye, Fragrance q . s .

( 1 ) U v i n u l M-40 ( 2 ) F i n s o l v TN ( 3 ) Pa rso l MCX ( 4 ) R i t a c h o l ( 5 ) Synchrowax AW1 -C ( 6 ) Cerasynt MN

Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 75 t o 8OC, then s l o w l y add t h e Veegum Pro

w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . M ix u n t i l smooth. Add rernai n i ng i ngred i e n t s i n o rde r shown w i t h c a r e f u l m i x i ng u n t i 1 smooth, m a i n t a i n a t 75 t o 8OC. Heat B t o 75 t o 8OC. Add 0 t o A and mix u n t i l c o o l . Add C .

Cons is tency : Cream

Suggested Packaging: Pump b o t t l e o r t u b e

Comments :

development o f new p roduc ts o r improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Fo rmu la t i on No. 421

T h i s p r o t o t y p e fo rmu la i s designed t o se rve as a gu ide f o r t h e

41 8 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Cream

1 . 2 . 3. 4 . 5 . 6 . 7 . 8. 9 .

A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 61 7 Beeswax Amerchol L-101 M i n e r a l O i l , 70 S . S . Dow F l u i d 200, 350 c s . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e E s c a l o l 507 P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e

10. So rb i t o 1 (70%) 11.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 12 .Methy l -P-Hydroxybenzoate 13.Germal l 115 14.Water

W L % 3 . 0 2.0 5 . 0 6.2 1 . o 7 . 0 5 . 5 5 . 0 0 .1

5 . 0 0 . 3 0.2 0 . 3

59.4

Procedure:

a c l o u d p o i n t o f a p p r o x i m a t e l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e i n t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v a t i n g tempera tu re i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . Ho ld t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-14 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i l l . A t 67C t h e c rude d i s p e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion forms. Con t inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make su re t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aerate and package. Re f : 51 89-4-1

Weigh 1-9 and hea t t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has

W/O Sunscreen Cream

1 . A-C P o l y e t h y l e n e 617 2 . Beeswax 3 . Amerchol L-101 4 . I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e 5 . Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s . 6 . 2 -E thy l Hexyl S t e a r a t e 7 . T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e 8 . E s c a l o l 507 9 . Propyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 10. So rb i t o 1 (70%) 11.Sodium Bora te , Anhydrous 12.Methyl-P-Hydroxybenzoate 13.Germal l 115 14 . Water

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Wt.% 3 . 0 2.0 5.0 6.2 1 . o 7 .0 5 . 5 5 . 0 0 . 1 5 . 0 0 .3 0 .2 0 . 3

59 .4

Sun Care Products 419

Sunscreen Cream Water-in-Oil (Expected SPF 15+)

A) Laury lmeth i cone c o p o l y o l C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 O c t y l p-methoxy cinnamate Benzophenone-3 T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e ( s m a l l p a r t i c l e s i z e ) G l y c e r y l monooleate C12-15 a l c o h o l s benzoate Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

B) Water Sodium c h l o r i d e S o r b i t o l (70%)

C) P r e s e r v a t i ve

2.00% 5 .00 7 . 5 0 2.00 4 . 0 0 1 .oo 5 .00 0 .50

q . s . 2.00 3.00

Procedure:

v e r y s l o w l y u s i n g v e r y v i g o r o u s a g i t a t i o n , h e a t i n g t o m e l t hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l . Add C . Pass th rough homogenizer t o i n s u r e smal l u n i f o r m p a r t i c l e s a r e produced. Package.

Combine A u s i n g moderate a g i t a t i o n . Combine 0 . Add B t o A

Skin Bronzing Gream

L-Tyros i ne Phenyl a1 an i ne A s p a r t i c a c i d Esc i n Copper g l u c o n a t e Hydro lyzed c o l l a g e n C a r r o t o l e o r e s i n S t . J o h n ' s Wort e x t r a c t Dihydroxyacetone C e t y l a l c o h o l P r e s e r v a t i v e Emu1 s i f i e r s , t h i cken i ng C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 Lanol i n S t e a r i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (85%) Water

agents

0.20% 0.10 0 . 1 0 0 . 0 5 0 .01 1.50 0.15 1 .oo 0.50 1 . o o

4 . 0 0 15.00

3 . 0 0 3 . 0 0 1 .oo

q . s . t o 100.00

q . s .

SOURCE: Wi tco Corp. : Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Formula t ions

420 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Cream

1 . 2. 3 . 4. 5 . 6 . 7 . 8 . 9 .

A-C Po lye thy lene 617 Beeswax Amerchol 1-101 I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Dow 200 F l u i d , 350 c s . 2 - E t h y l Hexyl S t e a r a t e T r i g l y c e r o l D i i s o s t e a r a t e E s c a l o l 507 P r o p y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e

10. S o r b i t o 1 (70%) 11.Sodium B o r a t e , Anhydrous 1 2 . M e t h y l - P - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 13.Germal l 115 14. Water

W t . % 3 . 0 2 . 0 5 . 0 6 . 2 1 . 0 7 . 0 5 . 5 5 . 0 0 . 1

5 . 0 0 . 3 0 . 2 0 . 3

59 .4

Procedure:

a c l o u d p o i n t o f app rox ima te l y 80C. Above t h e c l o u d p o i n t a l l waxes w i l l e v e n t u a l l y d i s s o l v e in t h e b l e n d . I f a h i g h e r s o l v - a t i n g tempera ture i s used, s o l v a t i o n can be much f a s t e r . H o l d t h e wax b l e n d a t 85C. Heat 10-14 t o 85-9OC and s t i r g e n t l y u n t i l a l l has d i s s o l v e d . Ho ld a t 85C.

Weigh 1-9 and heat t o 85C w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n . The b l e n d has

P lace wax b l e n d i n m i x i n g c o n t a i n e r , add aqueous phase t o i t and shear w i t h homomixer o r c o l l o i d m i 11. A t 67C t h e c rude d i s p - e r s i o n i n v e r t s and a t h i c k creamy emuls ion fo rms. Cont inue s h e a r i n g w h i l e s c r a p i n g t h e s i d e s o f t h e c o n t a i n e r t o make s u r e t h e whole c o n t e n t i s p r o p e r l y sheared. Add perfume, de-aera te and package. Ref : 51 89-4-9

O/W Sunscreen Lotion

1 . A-C Copolymer 580 2 . D i s t i 1 l e d I s o p r o p y l L a n o l a t e 3 . E s c a l o l 507 4 . Dow 556 F l u i d 5 . Propy l ene G1 y c o l D i p e l a rgonate 6 . E thoxyo l 24 7 . A r l a c e l 60 8 . Tween 60 9 . P r o p y l - p - H y d r o x y b e n z o a t e 1 0 . S o r b i t o l (70%) 11 .Carbop01 941 12 .T r ie thano lamine 13.Methy l -p -Hydroxybenzoate 14.Water

SOURCE: A l l i e d S i g n a l I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

w3.3 2 . 0 3 . 0 5 . 0 2 . 0

10 .0 1 . o 1 . o 2 . 0 0 . 1 5 . 0 0 . 5 0 .75 0 . 2

67.45

Sun Care Products 421

Sun Screen Cream W/O

A . M i g l y o l Gel B I m w i t o r 780K Aluge l DF 30

9. Hard p a r a f f i n P a r a f f i n o i l Eusolex 6300 A n t i o x i d a n t s

C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

D. Eusolex 232 T r ie thano lamine Mowiol 10-98 Water

W B 2 0 . 0 1 0 . 0

3 . 0

3.0 5 . 0 4 . 0

q s

qs q s

6 . 0 5 . 0 3 . 0

100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n :

B . are b rough t t o t h e same tempera ture and heated t o A . D. i s heated t o approx. 75C and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . + B . Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t approx . 30C.

The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 8OC. Those o f

Sun Screen Cream O/W

A . I m w i t o r 960 f l a k e s M i g l y o l 840 Lane t te N Neo He l iopan E 1000

B . 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Hygropl ex HHG Water

C. Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

Wt% 1 0 . 0

8 . 0 6 . 0 3 .0

3 . 0 5 . 0

t o 100.0

q s q s

P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e heated t o 75-8OC. Those o f 13. a r e

heated t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s added a t approx. 30C.

SOURCE: H u l s America Inc.: Formu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

422 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sun Screen Cream W/O, Oily

A . M i g l y o l 840 Gel 8 S o f t i s a n 649 I m w i t o r 780 K P a r a f f i n o i 1 Neo Hel iopan E 1000 Hard p a r a f f i n

B . Magnesium s u l p h a t e Water

C . Perfume P r e s e r v a t i v e

Q 20.0

5 . 0 5 . 0 8 . 0 3 . 0 3 . 0

2 . 0 t o 100.0

qs qs

Prepara t i on : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e mixed and heated t o 75-80C. Those

o f 8 . a r e b rough t t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . Perfume i s i n c o r p o r a t e d a t 30C.

Self Tanning Lotion

A .

B .

C .

D .

M i g l y o l 812 Marlowet TA 25 Mar lowet TA 6 Cremophor EL 1 ,2 -Propy lene g l y c o l C e t y l a l c o h o l

Water

Perfume

Dihydroxyacetone Water P rese rva t i ve

Wt$ 5 . 0 1 .5 1 . 5 1 . o 5 . 0 2 .5

t o 100.0

P r e p a r a t i o n : The i n g r e d i e n t s o f A . a r e heated t o 75-8OC. Those o f 8. a r e

b rought t o t h e same tempera ture and e m u l s i f i e d i n A . D . i s d i s s - o l v e d and added, t o g e t h e r w i t h C, a t approx . 3 0 C .

SOURCE: Hu ls America I n c . : Fo rmu la t i ons f o r Cosmetics: Formulas

Sun Care Products 423

Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l methoxyc inn imate

Benzophenone-3 Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimeth icone, 350 cps . B r i j 721s B r i j 72

B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940

C Water, d e i o n i zed Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)

w 7.00 3 .00 5 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0 2 .00 2 . 0 0

69.60 0 . 2 0

10.00 0 .20

Procedure:

and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) below 60 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C . Add water t o r e p l a c e loss by e v a p o r a t i o n and package.

Heat (A) t o 60 deg. C and (B) t o 65 deg. C . Add (6) t o ( A )

Sunscreen Cream

I n a r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l methoxyci n n i mate

Benzophenone-3 Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimeth icone, 350 cps . B r i j 721s B r i j 72

B Water, d e i o n i zed Carbomer 940

C Water, d e i o n i zed Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% W / W aqueous)

%w/w 5 .00 0 .50 5 .00 0 . 5 0 0 . 5 0 2 . 0 0 2.00

74.10 0 . 2 0

1 0 . 0 0 0 . 2 0

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 60 deg. C and (B) t o 65 deg. C . Add (6) t o (A)

and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add ( C ) below 60 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C . Add water t o r e p l a c e l o s s by e v a p o r a t i o n and package.

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

424 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Cream I n a r e d i e n t : o/ow/w P a r t A : De ion i zed Water 78.16 Rheol a t e 5 0 0 0 0 . 3 Propylene Carbonate 2 . 5 P a r t B : Panal ene 8 . 0 S i l i c o n e 7207 1 . o Promulgen D 0 . 5 Ceraphyl 494 2 . 0 P a r t C : AMP-95 0 . 2 4 P a r t D : Euxyl K-400 0 . 3 F i n s o l v TN 2 . 0 E s c a l o l 507 5 . 0 M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t A b y s l o w l y s i f t i n g i n t h e

polymer t o t h e wa te r , m i x i n g f o r 20 m inu tes , t h e n add ing t h e p ropy lene g l y c o l . Heat t o 80C.

2 . Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n P a r t 6 , t h e n hea t t o 78C. 3 . Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . M ix f o r 1 0 minutes, t h e n

add P a r t C . 4. Cool t o 40C b e f o r e add ing P a r t D . Package a t Room Temperature. Formula TS-330

Suntan Cream Mater i a 1 s : % by Weiqht P a r t A : 1 . De ion ized Water 73.50 2 . G l y c e r i n e 2.50 3 . T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0 . 7 0 4 . Me thy l Paraben 0 . 1 0 5 . Bentone LT r h e o l o g i c a l a d d i t i v e 0 . 5 0 P a r t E : 6 . Ceraphyl 424 3 . 0 0 7 . I s o c e t y l S t e a r a t e 2.00 0 . A c e t o l 2 .50 9 . Cocoa B u t t e r 1 . o o 10 .Hys t rene 5016 4.00 11 . Lexemul 503 6 .80 1 2 . E s c a l o l 507 3 .00 13 . P ropy l Paraben 0 . 1 0 P a r t C : Fragrance 0 . 3 0 M a n u f a c t u r i n g D i r e c t i o n s : 1 . P a r t A - In a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e , add i t e m s

1 t o 4 and hea t t o 60C. Us ing a homomixer, add i t e m 5 s l o w l y t o a v o i d lumps and m i x f o r 20 m inu tes o r u n t i l homogeneous. Heat t o 80C.

80C. M i x u n t i 1 compl e t e l y me1 t e d and homogeneous. 2. P a r t 5 - I n a separa te v e s s e l , add i t e m s 6 t o 1 3 and hea t t o

3 . Add P a r t B s l o w l y i n P a r t A a t 80C u s i n g sweep b l a d e s . 4 . A t 50C, add P a r t C, homogenize and f i l l u n i t s . Formula TS-256 SOURCE: Rheox, I n c . : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Sun Care Products 425

Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 10)

A c l e a r sunscreen g e l des igned t o p r o v i d e UV p r o t e c t i o n w h i l e l e a v i n g t h e s k i n s o f t and c o n d i t i o n e d . Geahlene p r o v i d e s v i s c - o s i t y , emol? iency , and water r e p e l l e n c y t o t h i s fo rmu la .

I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Wei ah t% A M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Bu ty lene /E thy lene /

S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Ethy lene/ Propy lene/Sty rene Copolymer//Geahlene 750 73.80

Oc ty ldodecy l Neopentanoate/Elefac 1-205 14.00 Tocopherol Ace ta te /V i tam in E Ace ta te 0 .50 Fragrance 0.10

B O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 Propy l paraben

7 .50 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 0 . 1 0

C D&C Green No. 6 q.s.

Procedure:

w i t h moderate m i x i n g . Add C as necessary . Mix A u n t i l homogeneous. Heat B t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o A

Sunscreen Gel (approx. SPF 12)

A c l e a r sunscreen g e l w i t h e x c e l l e n t s p r e a d a b i l i t y and a p leasan t , e m o l l i e n t a f t e r f e e l . Geahlene p r o v i d e s v i s c o s i t y , l u b r i c i t y , and water r e p e l l e n c y t o t h i s fo rmu la .

I n q r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: Wei nh t% A M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hydrogenated Bu ty lene /E thy lene /

S ty rene Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated E thy lene / Propy lene/Sty rene Copolymer//Geahlene 750 65.00

I s o p r o p y l I s o s t e a r a t e / P r i s o r i ne 2021 20 .80 Tocopherol Ace ta te /V i tami n E Ace ta te 0 .50 Fragrance 0 .10

B O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l S a l i c y l a t e / U v i n u l 0-18 Propylparaben

7 .50 4.00 2 .00 0.10

C D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake q.s.

Procedure:

A w i t h moderate m i x i n g . Add C as necessary .

SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Mix A u n t i l homogeneous. Heat B t o 60C u n t i l c l e a r . Add B t o

426 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Gel SPF 6 (FDA-OTC)*

I n q r e d i e n t s : A E t h y l a l c o h o l (96 V o l . %) denatured

Demi n e r a l i zed water 1 ,P-Propyl ene g l y c o l Germaben I 1 A1 1 a n t o i n D-Panthenol Carbopol 940

B Demi n e r a l i zed water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

C Demi n e r a l i zed water Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

D Cremophor NP 14 Perfume O i l

E Sunset Ye l low 307009 1% aq. s o l u t i o n

m 5,000

60,350 5 , 0 0 0 1,000 0,100 0,500 1,100

5,000 2,200

15,000 2,000 1,200

1,200 0,300

0,050

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tested SPF 5 . 9 on a f i v e s u b j e c t panel a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC proposed method.

M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A :

t o i n i n t h e a l c o h o l - w a t e r s o l u t i o n . Then s l o w l y add w h i l e s t i r r i n g Carbopol 940 and c o n t i n u e u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y d i s p e r s e d . P a r t B:

D i l u t e t h e n e u t r a l i z i n g agent w i t h water and add s l o w l y i n t o p a r t A f o r n e u t r a l i z a t i o n . A h i g h v i s c i d g e l w i l l be formed. P a r t C :

Add Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e water t o g e t a suspension. Cont inue s t i r r i n g and add s l o w l y t r i e t h a n - o lamine u n t i l t h e n e u t r a l i z a t i o n o f Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro i s complete and a c l e a r s o l u t i o n i s o b t a i n e d . Before adding t h e s o l u t i o n i n t o t h e g e l p a r t A/B, i t i s recommendable t o f i l t e r t h e s o l u t i on. P a r t D:

t u r e w h i l e s t i r r i n g i n t o t h e g e l A/B/C. P a r t E :

D i s s o l ve propy lene g l y c o l , Germaben 11, Panthenol and A1 1 an-

B lend t h e perfume o i l w i t h t h e s o l u b i l i z e r and add t h e mix-

W h i l e s t i r r i n g , add t h e c o l o r a n t t o t h e t r a n s p a r e n t g e l .

The pH v a l u e o f t h e g e l shou ld be approx. 7 .2 -7 .5 . A t a pH v a l u e below 7 Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro c o u l d p r e c i p i t a t e .

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Formula K 18/5-51282 D/E

Sun Care Products 427

Sunscreen LotionT h i s fo rmu la demonstrates t h e r h e o l o g i c a and s t a b i l i z i n g

p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a and o f S i l i c o n y l Beeswax. Inco rp - o r a t e d i n t o t h i s fo rmu la i s t h e sunscreen N o He l iopan AV ( O c t y l methoxycinnamate) g i v i n g t h i s fo rmu la an a p p r o p r i a t e SPF va lue . The p roduc t has h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l . The r h e o l o g i c a l p r o p e r t i e s o f Cera B e l l i n a a l l o w f o r t h i s p roduc t t o be packaged i n conven ien t t ubes o r squeeze b o t t l e s . O i l Phase: Neo He l iopan AV (H&R) 5.00% Squalane (Centerchem) 2.00% Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax; Kos ter Keunen) 4.00% G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel) 0.50% L i g h t M ine ra l O i l (Wi tco) 1.50% I s o s t e a r i c Ac id (Unichema) 4.00% Liquapar (Su t ton ) 0.40% O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 5.00% Shea B u t t e r (Kos ter Keunen) 4.00% E m u l s i f y i n g Wax (Kos te r Keunen) 1.50% V i tam in E (BASF) 0.10% V i tam in A P a l m i t a t e (BASF) 0.10% S t e a r i c A c i d (Unichema) 0 .50% Ceres ine 130/135 (Kos te r Keunen) 0.70% Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax (Kos te r Keunen) 1.00% S i l i c o n y l Beeswax (Kos te r Keunen) 1.40% Propy l Paraben (Su t ton ) 0.20% E le fac I 205 (Berne l ) 1.40% Sunf 1 ower O i 1 ( L i po) 3.00% Propylene G lyco l D ioc tana te ( I n o l e x ) 5.00% I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 3.00% D i i s o s t e a r y l Mal a t e (Be rne l ) 1.20% Gamma Orzanol (Kos te r Keunen) 1 .OO% Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 11 ed) 41 .70% 1,3-Butylene G l y c o l (Hoechst) 3.00% Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (Hercu les) 0.30% K e l t r o l TF (Ke lco) 0.30% Methyl Paraben (Su t ton ) 0.30% Sodium Bora te (Borax) 0.60% Water Phase 11: Water ( D i s t i l l e d ) 5.00% Tea 99% (Dow) 0.80% Act i ve Phase : S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) 1.00% Phenonip (N ipa) 0.50%

Heat t h e water phase t o 8OC under a g i t a t i o n ensu r ing t h a t t h e e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . Heat and mix t h e o i l phase t o 82C. S low ly add t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase, c o o l t o 70C and add water phase 11. Cool t o 40 and add t h e a c t i v e phase. Cool t o room tempera ture .

I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t your p re fe rence , w i t h o u t changing t h e cons is tency . The emulsion v i s c o s i t y can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d by changing t h e o i l and/or wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax (Kos te r Keunen) can be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance SPF. SOURCE: Koster Keunen, I nc . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

428 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (approx. SPF 15)

T h i s nongreasy sunscreen i s e a s i l y a p p l i e d and has a d r y a f t e r f e e l . The Geahlene 750 adds v i s c o s i t y and r i c h n e s s t o t h e l o t i o n , and shou ld c o n t r i b u t e t o water r e s i s t a n c e .

I n s r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: A De ion ized Water

A c r y l a t e s C10-30 A l k y l A c r y l a t e Cross-

Methy lparaben Tetrasodium EDTA/Hamp-Ene 220

polymer/Carbopol 1382

B T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e , 99%

C M i n e r a l O i l (and) Hvdrosenated Butv lene/Ethy lene/ S ty rene Copolymer i a n d j Hyd Propylene/Styrene Copolymer

O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parso Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l Sal i cy1 a te /Uv i n u l 0-1 8 C e t y l A l c o h o l / L a n e t t e 16 Propylparaben Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1

ogenated Ethy lene/ /Geahl ene 750

MCX

60 S t e a r i c Ac i d/Emersol 132 Potass i um C e t y l Phosphate/Amphi s o l K

D D i azo1 i d i n y l Urea/Germal l I 1

Procedure:

Fragrance

Wei aht% 69.80

0.20 0 . 1 5 0.10

0.20

0 . 0 0 7 . 5 0 4.00 2 * 00 1 . o o 0 .05 0 .60 2.00 2 . 0 0

0 .30 0 . 1 0

D i sperse Carbopol 1382 i n r a p i d l y a g i t a t e d de i o n i zed w a t e r . M ix u n t i l c o m p l e t e l y lump- f ree . Heat t o 80C. Add remain ing p a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , heat p a r t C t o 80-85C. M i x u n t i l a l l t h e s o l i d s a r e d i s s o l v e d . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A . M i x f o r 30 minutes u n t i l homogeneous. Cool t o 40C. Add p a r t D . Cont inue m i x i n g and c o o l i n g t o 30C.

SOURCE: Penreco: Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n

Sun Care Products 429

Sunscreen Lotion

I n s r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l methoxyci nnimate

Benzophenone-3 Pe t ro la tum Dimethicone B r i j 721s B r i j 72

B Water, de i o n i zed Carbomer 934

C Water, de i on i zed Sodium hyd rox ide (10% W / W aqueous)

w 7.00 3 .00

25.00 3.00 1.20 3 .00

46.60 0 . 2 0

10 .00 0.20

Procedure:

and s t i r w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) below 60 deg. C . S t i r t o 35 deg. C . Add water t o r e p l a c e l o s s by evapora t i on and package.

Heat (A) t o 60 deg. C and ( 8 ) t o 65 deg. C . Add (B) t o (A)

O/W Emollient Sunscreen Lotion

I n n r e d i e n t s : A O c t y l d ime thy l PABA

Benzophenone-3 Ar lamol E S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Dimethicone A r l a s o l v e 200 B r i j 72

Carbomer 934 B Water

C Sodium hyd rox ide (10% W/W aqueous)

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e and f rag rance

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

w 7.00 3 . 0 0 7 . 0 0 2 .50 1 . o o 3 .10 3.90

72.10 0.20

0 .20

Procedure: D isperse Carbomer i n water and hea t (B) t o 70C. Heat ( A ) t o

72C. and add (B) t o (A) w i t h p r o p e l l e r a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add ( C ) and i n c r e a s e speed of t h e a g i t a t i o n as needed. Add ( D ) and r e p l a c e water l o s t by e v a p o r a t i o n .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

430 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) SPF 6 (DIN 67501)*

I n n r e d i e n t s : Demi n e r a l i zed water Carbopol 934 Sodium hyd rox ide , (10% aq. s o l u t i o n ) Teg in M Tagat S Lane t te 0 P a r a f f i n o i 1 (70 mPas) I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 Neo He l iopan, Type AV C e t i o l MM A b i l 100 Phenoni p Demi n e r a l i zed water Phenoni p Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro

used as a 15% aq. s o l u t i o n n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h i d e cor respond ing 0,5% a c t i v e Neo He l iopan,

1,2-Propylene g l y c o l Demi n e r a l i zed water Phosphor ic a c i d, D i sod i um s a l t Phosphor ic a c i d , Monopotassium s a l t Perfume O i l

%(w/w) 25,000

0,400 2,050 2,500 1,950 1,800 2,500 2,000 3,000 2,500 2,000 0,500 0,200

36,850 0,300 3,350

sod i urn hydrox- Type Hydro

2,000 10,000 0,580 0,120 0,400

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n Fac to r Tested mean SPF 6 acco rd ing t o t h e German D I N 67501 method.

Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A :

D isperse t h e Carbopol i n water u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . M ix t o fo rm a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f rom lumps. Wi th s t i r r i n g add t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n t h e sodium hyd rox ide s o l u t i o n t o fo rm a h i g h v i s c i d g e l . P a r t 0 : Heat t o 75C. P a r t C:

M ix w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 60C and add t h e Carbopol ge l p a r t A . P a r t D:

D i s s o l v e D i sod i um Phosphate and Po tass i um Phosphate i n water a t 60C. Add t h e b u f f e r s o l u t i o n t o t h e emuls ion a t 55-60C. P a r t E :

Cont inue s t i r r i n g t o room tempera ture .

Heat t o 85C. Add p a r t C t o p a r t B w h i l e s t i r r i n g r a p i d l y .

Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o 35-40C and add t h e perfume o i l .

The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emulsion shou ld be 7 . 5 and must be c o n t r o l l e d .

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on K 18/1-51093 D/E

Sun Care Products 431

Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 11 (DIN 67501)*

I n a r e d i e n t s : Teg in M Tagat S L a n e t t e 0 P a r a f f i n o i l (70mPas) I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e M y r i t o l 318 Neo He l i opan , Type E C e t i o l MM A b i l 100 Phenoni p

1000

%(w/w) 3,500 1,500 2 ,700 2 , 0 0 0 2,000 3,000 3,000 2 ,000 0,500 0,200

Demine ra l i zed wa te r 5 2 , 5 0 0 Carbopol 934 0,400 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% aq. s o l u t i o n ) 2,050 Neo He l i opan , Type Hydro used as a 15% aq. s o l u t i o n 13,350

n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium h y d r o x i d e co r respond ing 2% a c t i v e Neo He l i opan , Type Hydro

Phenoni p 0 , 2 0 0

Demine ra l i zed wa te r Phosphor ic a c i d , Disodium s a l t Phosphor ic a c i d , Monopotassium s a l t

10,000 0,580 0,120

Perfume O i l 0,400

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tes ted mean SPF 11 .8 a c c o r d i n g t o t h e German DIN 67501

method.

Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat t o 7 5 C . P a r t 8 :

D ispe rse t h e Carbopol w e l l i n water u s i n g h i g h speed a g i t - a t i o n . M i x t o f o r m a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r o m lumps. Add w i t h s t i r r i n g t o t h e d i s p e r s i o n Phenonip and t h e sodium hydrox- i d e s o l u t i o n . Then add t h e n e u t r a l i z e d s o l u t i o n o f t h e 15% Neo He l i opan , Type Hydro and hea t t o 85C. Add p a r t B s l o w l y w i t h tho rough a g i t a t i o n t o p a r t A . Then c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 60C. P a r t C :

a t 60C ( b u f f e r system). Add p a r t C t o p a r t A/B and c o o l w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 35-40C. P a r t D:

D i s s o l v e D i c a l c i um Phosphate and Po tass i um Phosphate i n water

Add t h e perfume o i l and c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room tempera tu re .

The pH v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be 7 . 5 and must be c o n t r o l l e d .

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 1 8 / 1 - 5 1 0 9 7 / E

432 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) SPF 4 (DIN 67501)

I n q r e d i e n t s : A A r l a t o n e 983 S

B r i j 76 L a n e t t e 0 P a r a f f i n o i l (70 mPas) Cegesof t C24 Eutano l G B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M10 Neo H e l i o p a n , Type E 1000 S o l b r o l P

1,2 Propy lene g l y c o l S o l b r o l M Germal l 115

Carbopol 934 Sodium h y d r o x i d e (10% s o l u t i o n i n Perfume O i l

B Demine ra l i zed water

C Demi n e r a l i zed water

w a t e r )

%(w/w) 1,500 1 , 0 0 0 I , 200 2,000 3,000 5 , 0 0 0 1 ,000 3,500 o , oao

52,370 2,000 0,200 0 ,150

25,000 0,300 1,300 0,400

Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C. P a r t B : Heat up t o 85C. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g .

P a r t C : D i s p e r s e t h e Carbopol i n t h e water u s i n g h i g h speed Cool w i t h s t i r r i n g t o 55C.

a g i t a t i o n . M i x t o f o r m a u n i f o r m d i s p e r s i o n f r e e f r o m lumps. Add sodium h y d r o x i d e s o l u t i o n w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o f o r m a h i g h v i s c i d g e l . Add p a r t C t o p a r t A/B w h i l e s t i r r i n g . A t 35C add t h e f r a g r a n c e and c o o l down w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o room tempera ture . The pH v a l u e o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion s h o u l d be 7-7 .5 .

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Formula K 18/1-51 090 / E

Sun Care Products 433

Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) SPF 18 (FDA-OTC)*

I n g r e d i e n t s : Neo He l i opan , Type AV Neo He l iopan, TvDe MA . . _ . I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e M y r j 52 C u t i n a MD Promulgen D Antaron V-220 Bays i l one F l u i d M 10

Demi n e r a l i zed water Carbopol 940; used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n 1,2-Propylene g l y c o l T r i l o n BD

%(w/w) 7,500 5,000 3 i000 2,000 3,000 2,000 4,000 2,000

45,830 15,000

2,000 0,100

Neo He l i opan , Type Hydro used as a 30% aq. s o l u t i o n 6,670 n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e co r respond ing 2% a c t i v e Neo He l i opan Type Hydro

T r ie thano lamine 0,500

Germaben I 1 Perfume O i l

1,000 0,400

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tes ted mean SPF v a l u e 18.25 on a f i v e s u b j e c t pane l acco rd ing t o t h e FDA-OTC proposed method.

Manu fac tu r ing Process: I n a s u i t a b l e vesse l weigh phase A and hea t t o 75C w i t h

a g i t a t i o n . I n another vesse l a b l e t o c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e ba tch , weigh phase B and hea t t o 75C w i t h a g i t a t i o n . S low ly add phase A t o phase 0, m i x for 10 m inu tes and add phase C. M ix u n t i l u n i f o r m and s t a r t coo l i ng w i t h con t inuous a g i t a t i o n . Cool t o 40C and add phases D and E. Cont inue c o o l i n g w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 28-25C and package.

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on K 18/1-51677/E

434 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (w/o) SPF 10 (DIN 67501)*

I n g r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 481

A r l a c e l 989 Eutanol G I s o p r o p y l i s o s t e a r a t e P a r a f f i n o i l (70 mPas) Neo He l i opan , Type E 1000 Neo He l i opan , Type AV Neo He l i opan , Type BB B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M 10 V a s e l i n e Type Merkur 1546 Amerchol L 101 S o l b r o l P

B Demi n e r a l i zed water S o l b r o l M G l y c e r i n 86% Magnesi um s u l f a t e

%(w/w) 3,500 1,500 2,250 2,250 3,340 4,000 4 ,000 1,000 1,000 7,500 1,000 0,080

65,380 0,200 2,000 0 ,500

C Perfume O i l 0 ,500

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tested mean SPF 1 0 . 6 a c c o r d i n g t o t h e German D I N 67501 method.

Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat t o 75C. P a r t B:

s t i r r i n g . A t 70C homogenize t h e emuls ion f o r a few m inu tes . P a r t C :

35C i n t o t h e emuls ion. Then c o n t i n u e s t i r r i n g t o room temp- e r a t u r e .

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 18/1-51098/E

Heat t o 85-9OC. Add p a r t B t o p a r t A s l o w l y under tho rough

Con t inue c o o l i n g under s t i r r i n g and add t h e perfume o i l a t

Sun Care Products 435

Sunscreen Lotion (o/w) (cold processing) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC)*, waterproof**

I n p r e d i e n t s : A Demi n e r a l i zed wa te r

1 ,Z -p ropy l ene g l y c o l A roso l S o l b r o l M S o l b r o l P T r i l o n B l i q u i d

B Nso He l i opan , Type A V Neo Hel iopan, Type E 1000 P a r a f f i n o i l ( 7 0 mPas) C e t i o l S Lameform TGI Perfume o i l Pemulen TR-1 Carbopol 954

%(w/w) 77,500

2,000 0 ,500 0,250 0,100 0 , 1 0 0

3 ,000 3,000 6,500 5,000 1 , 0 0 0 0,300 0,250 0 ,050

C T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e 0,450

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n Factor(SPF): The SPF was determined on a f i v e s u b j e c t panel t e s t a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC proposed method.

The procedure f o r d e t e r m i n i n g " w a t e r p r o o f " e f f e c t i v e n e s s was 20 minutes moderate a c t i v i t y i n w a t e r . The SPF b e f o r e water immersion was 5 . 7 and a f t e r water immersion 6 . 1 .

**Waterproof :

Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A :

m i x t u r e and T r i l o n B l i q u i d t o t h e w a t e r . P a r t B:

Carbopol and Pemulen v e r y c a r e f u l l y w i t h h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add p a r t B t o p a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . S t i r f o r 45 m inu tes . P a r t C :

The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be approx. 7 and has t o be c o n t r o l l e d .

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: F o r m u l a t i o n K 18/1-51 669 C / E

D i s s o l v e A r o s o l , S o l t r o l P and M i n p ropy lene g l y c o l . Add t h e

M i x a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s ( w i t h o u t Permul en and Carbopol ) . D ispe rse

Add t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e w h i l e s t i r r i n g and s t i r u n t i l homogeneous.

436 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen LotionSPF 30 (FDA-OTC)*

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Neo He l iopan, Type AV

Neo He l i opan , Type BB Neo He l iopan, Type 303 Ganex WP 660 L a n e t t e 0 A b i l 100 Protachem SQI

B De ion ized water Carbopol 940 used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n Pemulen TR-1 used as a 2% aq. s o l u t i o n l I2 -Propy1 ene g l y c o l

%(w/w) 7,500 6,000 91000 3,000 0,500 2,000 0,200

52,150 5,000

10,000 3,000

C T r i e thano l ami ne 0,250

D Germaben I 1 Perfume O i l

1,000 0.400

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tes ted SPF 31.5 on a f i v e s u b j e c t panel acco rd ing t o t h e FDA-OTC proposed method.

Manu fac tu r ing Process: I n a s u i t a b l e vesse l weigh phase A, hea t up t o BOC-85C and

mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . I n another vesse l a b l e t o c o n t a i n t h e e n t i r e ba tch , weigh phase 8, hea t t o 80C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . S low ly add phase A t o phase B w i t h a g i t a t i o n and mix f o r t e n m inu tes . S l o w l y add phase C and s t a r t c o o l i n g . Cool w i t h con t inuous a g i t - a t i o n t o 40C and add phase D. Cont inue c o o l i n g w i t h a g i t a t i o n t o 28C-25C. M i l l and package.

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on H 101-47-5

Sun Care Products 437

Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) Tested SPF 10

I n a r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165

Eumulgin B 2 L a n e t t e 0 M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l OE A b i l 100 Bentone Gel M I 0 C u t i n a CBS Neo He l iopan, Type AV Neo He l iopan, Type E 1000 Neo He l iopan, Type MBC Neo He l i opan , Type BB

B Deminera l i zed water Phenoni p G l y c e r i n 86% Veegum u l t r a N a t r o s o l 250 HHR Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R

C Perfume o i l

% ( w / w l 3.00 1 . o o 1 .15 4 . 0 0 5.00 1 . o o 3.00 1 .oo 3.00 3 .00 1 . o o 0.70

63.05 0.50 3 .00 1 . o o 0 .30 5.00

0.30

Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . P a r t 8:

add t h e Veegum u l t r a and t h e N a t r o s o l d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a - t i o n . Then d i s p e r s e Z i n c Oxide N e u t r a l H&R i n t h e water phase. Add P a r t B t o P a r t A w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cool down w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o room tempera ture . P a r t C :

emu1 s i on.

and has t o be checked.

Add Phenonip and g l y c e r i n t o t h e wa te r . Heat up t o 95C. Then

A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A/B and homogenize t h e

The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be approx . 7

I n s t r u c t i on : I n EEC c o u n t r i e s t h e use o f more t h a n 0 . 5 % Benzophenone-3 i n

sunscreen p r o d u c t s i s 1 i a b l e t o d e c l a r e : c o n t a i n s Oxybenzone.

SOURCE: Haarman 8, Reimer: Formula K 18/1-21287/E

438 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (O/W) Tested SPF 16

I n a r e d i e n t s : A r l a c e l 165 Eumulgin 82 L a n e t t e 0 M y r i t o l 318 C e t i o l OE A b i l 100 Bentone Gel MI0 Neo He1 i opan, Type AV Neo He l iopan, Type E 1000 C u t i n a CBS

Demi n e r a l i zed water G l y c e r i n 86% Phenoni p Neo He l i opan , Type Hydro; used as a

n e u t r a l i z e d w i t h sodium hyd rox ide Veegum u l t r a N a t r o s o l 250 HHR Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R

%(w/w) 3 . 0 0 1 . o o 1 .oo 4.00 5.00 1 % O O 3,OO 4.00 4.00 1 . oo

49.60 3.00 0.50

15% s o l u t i o n 13.30

1 .oo 0.30 5.00

( a c t i v e : 2 .00%)

Perfume o i l 0 . 3 0

Manu fac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . P a r t 8:

s o l u t i o n t o t h e wa te r . Heat up t o 95C. Add Veegum u l t r a and N a t r o s o l d u r i n g h i g h speed a g i t a t i o n . Then add Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R and d i s p e r s e . Add P a r t B w h i l e s t i r r i n g t o P a r t A Cont inue s t i r r i n g t o toom tempera ture . P a r t C :

emuls ion .

7 . 5 and has t o be checked.

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on K 18/1-21284/E

Add Phenonip, g l y c e r i n and t h e Ne0 He l iopan, Type Hydro

A t 30C add t h e perfume o i l t o P a r t A/B and homogenize t h e

The pH-value o f t h e f i n i s h e d emuls ion shou ld be approx.

Sun Care Products 439

Sunscreen Lotion (w/o) SPF 6 (FDA-OTC), waterproof*

I n q r e d i e n t s : A A b i l EM 90

Teg in T 4753 C e t i o l S P a r a f f i n o i l (34 mPas)

% ( w / w ) 2,000 1 ,000

l7;OOO 8,500

B Demi n e r a l i zed water 58,450 Neo Hel iopan, Type Hydro used as a 30% aq s o l u t i o n 10,000

n e u t r a l i zed w i t h t r i e t h a n o l a m i n e cor respond ing 3% a c t i v e Neo He l iopan, Type Hydro

1 ,2-Propyl ene g l y c o l 2,000 T r i e thano l ami ne 0,350 Phenoni p 0,400

C Perfume O i l 0,300

*Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r : Tested mean SPF v a l u e b e f o r e swim 6.32 and a f t e r swim 5.76 on a f i v e s u b j e c t panel a c c o r d i n g t o t h e FDA-OTC proposed method.

M a n u f a c t u r i n g Process: P a r t A : Heat t o 70C. P a r t B:

D i s s o l v e t h e i n g r e d i e n t s i n t h e w a t e r . The pH v a l u e o f t h e water phase p a r t B s h o u l d be 7 .5 and must be c o n t r o l l e d . Now add p a r t B w h i l e s l o w l y s t i r r i n g t o p a r t A w i t h i n a t i m e o f 3-5 minu tes ( h o t / c o l d p rocedure) . P a r t C :

emuls ion t h r o u g h a homogeniser ( c o l l o i d m i l l ) .

SOURCE: Haarrnan & Reirner: F o r m u l a t i o n K 18/1-51566 A/E

Cont inue s t i r r i n g , a t 30C add t h e f r a g r a n c e . Then pass t h e

440 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Sunscreen Lotion (W/O) Tested SPF 11

I n n r e d i e n t s : A Dehymuls HRE 7

Lameform TGI Pemul g i n 3220 I s o p r o p y l i s o s t e a r a t e C e t i o l OE B a y s i l o n e F l u i d M 10 V i t a m i n E Ace ta te Neo He l iopan, Type AV Neo He l i opan , Type E 1000 Neo He1 i opan, Type MBC Neo He l iopan, Type BB

B Demi n e r a l i zed water G l y c e r i n 86% Phenoni p Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R

C Perfume o i l

%(w/w) 4 . 0 0 4.00 1 .so 8.00 7 .50 1 .oo 0 . 5 0 4.00 4 . 0 0 1 . 0 0 1 .so

54.10 3.00 0.50 5 .00

0.40

Manufac tu r ing Process: P a r t A : Heat up t o 75C w i t h thorough a g i t a t i o n . P a r t B:

and d i s p e r s e t h e Z i n c Oxide n e u t r a l H&R. Add P a r t B t o p a r t A s l o w l y w h i l e s t i r r i n g . Cont inue s t i r r i n g t o room tempera ture . P a r t C :

emuls ion .

Heat up t o 9OC ( w i t h o u t t h e Z inc Oxide n e u t r a l H&R). Then add

A t 40C add t h e perfume o i l t o p a r t A / B and homogenize t h e

I n s t r u c t i on :

sunscreen p r o d u c t s i s l i a b l e t o d e c l a r e : c o n t a i n s Oxybenzone.

SOURCE: Haarman & Reimer: Fo rmu la t i on K 18/1-51835/E

I n EEC c o u n t r i e s t h e use o f more t h a n 0.5% Benzophenone-3 i n

Sun Care Products 441

Sunscreen Moisturizing Cream

T h i s f o r m u l a demonstrates t h e s t a b i l i z i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f S i l i c o n y l Beeswax. I n c o r p o r a t e d i n t o t h i s fo rmula i s t h e sun- screen Neo He l iopan AV ( O c t y l methoxycinnamate) g i v i n g t h i s fo rmula an a p p r o p r i a t e SPF v a l u e . The cream has h i g h g l o s s and e x c e l l e n t s k i n f e e l . O i l Phase: Cera B e l l i n a (Pg-3 Beeswax, Kos ter Keunen) 6.0% E le fac I 205 ( B e r n e l ) 1.4% G l y c e r o l Monostearate (Henkel ) 1 .4% I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Unichema) 2.0% Ceres ine 130/135 (Kos ter Keunen) 1.3% Propy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.2% Squalane (Centerchem) 1.8% Jo joba o i l ( J o j o b a Growers) 1 .O% Liquapar ( S u t t o n ) 0.4% Neo He l iopan AV (H&R) 5.0% V i t a m i n E (BASF) 1 .O% O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( I n o l e x ) 2.5% Shea B u t t e r (Kos ter Keunen) 2 * 5% I s o s t e a r i c a c i d (Unichema) 3 .O% L ipopeg 100-S ( L i p o ) 1.5% S i l i c o n y l Beeswax (Kos ter Keunen) 3.0% E m u l s i f y i n g Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1.7% Hexanediol Behenyl Beeswax ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .O% Gamma Orzanol ( K o s t e r Keunen) 1 .O% Water Phase: Water (D i s t i 1 l e d ) 44.3% Buty lene G l y c o l (Hoechst) 3.0% Sodium Bora te (Borax) 0.8% Methy l Paraben ( S u t t o n ) 0.3% Aloe Vera Gel 1:l ( A c t i v e Organ ics) 3.0% G l y c e r i n 99% 4.0% K e l t r o l TF (Ke lco) 0 . 3 % Water Phase 11: TEA 99% (Dow) 1 .O%

A c t i v e Phase: S i l i c o n e 245 (Dow) 1.0% Phenoni p (N i pa) 0.5% Procedure:

e n t i r e phase i s s o l u b i l i z e d . M e l t and mix t h e o i l phase t o 82C i s ma in ta ined. A t t h e l a s t minu te added t h e gamma orzano l t o t h e o i l phase, a l l o w t o d i s p e r s e t h e n s l o w l y add t h e o i l phase t o t h e water phase w h i l e m i x i n g . A l l o w t o c o o l t o 45C and add t h e s i l i c o n e and t h e phenonip. Cool t o room tempera ture . A d a p t a t i o n o f fo rmula and i t s i n f l u e n c e on t h e p r o d u c t :

I t i s easy t o a l t e r t h e sunscreen t o s u i t your p r e f e r e n c e , w i t h o u t changing t h e c o n s i s t e n c y I The emu1 s i on v i scos i t y can e a s i l y be a l t e r e d by changing t h e o i l and/or wax c o n c e n t r a t i o n . Orange Wax ( K o s t e r Keunen) can be added t o n a t u r a l l y enhance t h e SPF. SOURCE: Kos ter Keunen, I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

D . I. Water 5.0%

Heat t h e water phase t o 8OC under a g i t a t i o n e n s u r i n g t h a t t h e

442 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Tanning Accelerator

P a r t A : Water Carbomer 934

P a r t 0 : Rosswax 1824 Rosswax 2540

Ross Jo joba O i l 'Esca lo l 507 Coconut O i l #76 Uni p e r t a n P-24

P a r t C : Germaben I 1

P a r t D: F ragrance

P a r t E: T r i e thano l ami ne

GMS-SE

P a r t s by Wei q h t 5 0 0 . 0

2 . 0

15 .0 6 . 0 6 . 0 4 .0

1 2 . 0 25 .0

3 . 0

6 . 0

q . s .

4 . 5

Procedure:

934 u n t i l f u l l y d i spe rsed under a g i t a t i o n . I n a separa te steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e m e l t t h e O i l Phase. When f u l l y me l ted , add t h e O i l Phase t o t h e Water Phase under a g i t a t i o n . Then add t h e Germaben 1 1 , t h e n t h e f r a g r a n c e and f i n a l l y add t h e TEA w i t h h i g h a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. Cool t o 130F and package.

I n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e hea t t h e water and add t h e Carbomer

Sun Screen Stick

I n g r e d i e n t s : Ross Wh i te Bleached Beeswax Ross Pure Re f ined C a n d e l i l l a Wax Ross Pure #1 Ye l l ow Carnauba Wax Pe t ro la tum I PM M i n e r a l O i l 60/70 Ross Jo joba O i 1 Amerscreen P

% 20 .0 16.1 4.0

1 6 . 1 10 .0 32 .6

1 .2 9 . S .

Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . When f u l l y mixed c o o l t o 145F and package. (Note : Capping may be necessary ) .

SOURCE: Frank 0 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n a steam j a c k e t e d k e t t l e t o 170F under

Sun Care Products 443

Titanium Dioxide Based Waterproof SunscreenSPF 12 (Tested)

Dermacryl 79 p r o v i d e s water r e s i s t a n c e , i nc reased m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e .

Incaredients : Phase A: Ceraphyl I C A F i n s o l v TN Emersol 132 M y r j 52s A b i l 88852 C e t y l A l coho l Cerasynt SD Armeen DM 18D Dermacryl-79 T i o v e i l F I N

Phase 8: Deioni zed Water Carbomer 941 (2% Aq. So ln ) Methylparaben Propy lparaben T r ie thano lamine (99%)

Phase C: Germal l II

Phase D: Fragrance

% w/w

7 .00 2.00 2 .00 2.00 1 .oo 1 .OD 0 .50 2 . 0 0 2 . 0 0 10.00

59.30 10.00

0.15 0.10 0.80

0.15

Q.S.

Procedure: Combine Phase B and heat t o 8OC. I n a separa te vessel combine

Phase A except f o r Dermacryl-79 and T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e and heat t o 8OC. S low ly s i f t i n Dermacryl-79 w i t h cons tan t s t i r r i n g u n t i l comp le te l y d i s s o l v e d . Add T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e w i t h cons tan t s t i r r i n g u n t i l comp le te l y d i spe rsed . Add Phase A t o Phase B a t 8OC and mix f o r 30 minu tes . Cool t o 40C and add Phase C and Phase D, homogenize, c o o l t o room tempera ture and package.

SOURCE: N a t i o n a l S t a r c h and Chemical Co.: Formula 7023-24A

444 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ultra Violet Absorbing Sunscreen

Veegum U l t r a , magnesium aluminum s i l i c a t e , i s used t o t h i c k e n and s t a b i l i z e t h i s sunscreen emuls ion . Two u l t r a v i o l e t absorbers a r e used t o a c h i e v e an e s t i m a t e d SPF (Sun P r o t e c t i o n F a c t o r ) o f app rox ima te l y 1 5 . T h i s smooth, f l o w a b l e l o t i o n spreads e a s i l y and d r i e s q u i c k l y , l e a v i n g non-tacky a f t e r - f e e l .

I n g r e d i e n t : A Veegum U l t r a (Magnesium Aluminum S i l i c a t e )

Dei o n i zed Water

% bv W t . 1 . 5 0

7 0 . 5 0 G l y c e r i n 5 . 5 0

B PEG-I50 D i s t e a r a t e D i o c t y l Mal a t e * M i n e r a l O i l C e t y l A1 coho1 Benzophenone-3 O c t y l D imethy l PABA S tea re th -2 Steare th-20

3 .00 2 . 0 0 4 . 0 0 0 . 5 0 3 . 0 0 7 . 0 0 0 . 9 0 2 .10

C P r e s e r v a t i v e , Fragrance 9 , s .

*Ceraphyl 45

Procedure: Heat t h e water t o 5 5 C . S l o w l y add Veegum U l t r a t o t h e water

w h i l e s t i r r i n g w i t h a p r o p e l l e r m i x e r a t 700 rpm. I n c r e a s e t h e m i x e r speed t o 1500-1700 rpm and mix f o r 30 minu tes , m a i n t a i n i n g tempera ture a t 55C. Add g l y c e r i n and mix f o r 5 minutes . Mix B i n g r e d i e n t s and heat t o 60C. Add B t o A w h i l e m i x i n g a t 1500- 1700 r p m . Cont inue m i x i n g f o r 30 m i n u t e s . Avo id a i r entrapment. Slow m i x i n g speed t o 1000 rpm and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g w h i l e c o o l i n g t o 35C. Add C and mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Package.

Produc t C h a r a c t e r t i s t i c s : V i scos i t y : 5000-6000 cps pH: 5 . 0 + - 0 . 2

Comments:

t h e development o f new p r o d u c t s o r t h e improvement o f e x i s t i n g ones.

SOURCE: R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co., I n c . : Formula No. 448

T h i s p r o t o t y p e f o r m u l a i s designed t o s e r v e as a g u i d e f o r

Sun Care Products 445

Un-Buffered Self Tanning Cream

R e s u l t i n g p r o d u c t i s a s o f t cream t h a t c o u l d be d ispensed f rom a f l e x i b l e t u b e o r a j a r . The f o r m u l a t i o n u t i l i z e s 5% Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as t h e s e l f t a n n i n g i n g r e d i e n t . The f o r m u l a t i o n c o n t a i n s no amines t o r e a c t w i t h Dihydroxyacetone. The f o r m u l a t i o n a p p l i e s e a s i l y and e v e n l y and forms a modera te ly t h i c k f i l m a l l o w i n g maximum t a n c o l o r development. The f i n i s h e d p r o d u c t shou ld be s t o r e d away f rom l i g h t and a t tempera ture c o n d i t i o n s below 40C t o p r e v e n t DHA f rom degrad ing .

A . De ion ized Water Methy lparaben (Lexgard M) 2 ,4 -D ich lo robenzy l A lcoho l (Myacide SP) Propylene G l y c o l USP

63.10 0.20 0.20 1 - 0 0

8 . H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u l o s e ( C e l l o s i z e QP-15,OOOH) 0 . 4 0

C . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515) 6.00 G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 501) 3.00 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) 4 . 0 0 I s o b u t y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l BS) 2 -00 Propylparaben (Lexgard P) 0 .10

D . Dihydroxyacetone De ion ized Water

5.00 15.00

Procedure: 1 . Combine s e c t i o n "A" h e a t i n g t o 75-80C. Use a p r o p e l l e r mixer

f o r a g i t a t i o n . 2 . S p r i n k l e s e c t i o n "BI1 i n t o s e c t i o n " A " . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed

t o c r e a t e a v o r t e x d u r i n g a d d i t i o n , t h e n s low t o h i g h e s t speed which does n o t produce a v o r t e x .

3 . Combine s e c t i o n "C". Heat t o 80-85C w i t h c o n t i n u o u s s low m i x i ng.

4 . When s e c t i o n s "AB" and "C" a r e homogeneous and a t t h e d e s i g - na ted tempera tures add s e c t i o n 'rC9t t o s e c t i o n s "AB" . I n c r e a s e m i x i n g speed t o a h i g h speed. Begin c o o l i n g . Slow m i x i n g speed t o h i g h e s t speed p o s s i b l e t h a t w i l l n o t cause v o r t e x i n g .

5 . Us ing g loves , combine s e c t i o n "D" and mix u n t i l c l e a r . 6 . Add s e c t i o n IIDq' t o s e c t i o n s "ABC" a t 35-40C. Cont inue m i x i n g

7 . A t 33-35C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . 8 . Mix b a t c h u n t i l i t reaches 30.

P h y s i c a l P r o p e r t i e s : V i s c o s i t y : 20,000 cPs @ 25C ( B r o o k f i e l d RVT, TA I3 10 rpm)

pH: 5.0 @ 24C

and c o o l i n g .

24 hour sample

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: F o r m u l a t i o n 398-105-2

446 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion (with 8% Titanium Dioxide)

SPF 15 I n q r e d i e n t s : w

I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 12.0 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 8 .0 C e t y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 3 .0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 5 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 1 . o M i n e r a l O i l 2 . 0 Phase 0 : T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 8 . 0 Phase C : Water 6 0 . 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 Phase D : F ragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . Heat t o 80C t o m e l t and

2 . Add t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . D ispe rse and m i l l t h e p igment . Cool

3 . M ix Phase C . Heat t o 50C. Add t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h low

4 . Cool t o 35C. Add Phase D. Homogenize.

Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copo lyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. Cool t o 60C.

t o 50C.

energy s t i r r e r . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .

W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 22

I n g r e d i e n t s : w Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copo lyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

C e t y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) 1 . o O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 5 . 1 M i n e r a l O i l 1 . 5 Beeswax 1 .2 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 8 Phase 0 : O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 5 .0 T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e 5.0 Cyclomethicone (Abi 1 B 8839) 4 .4 Phase C : Water 69.2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e waxes. 2 . Cool Phase A t o SOC. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy

3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . 4. Cool t o 50C. 5 . Heat Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C w h i l e

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Formulas BJS-1-45/GRH-2-37

I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t imes .

m i x i n g . 6 . Cool t o 35C and homogenize.

Sun Care Products 447

Waterproof Sunscreen Gel (Tested SPF 30)

Dermacryl LT p r o v i d e s water r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e as w e l l as improved r u b - i n p r o p e r t i e s .

I n s r e d i e n t s : Anhydrous Ethano l K l u c e l MF Dermacryl-79 F i n s o l v TN Dow Corn ing 344 F l u i d A b i l 88852 Neo He l iopan Type AV Neo He l iopan Type OS Neo He l iopan Type BB

%w/w 65.50

1 .oo 1 .oo

10.00 3.00 1 .00 7.50 5.00 6.00

Procedure: D i s s o l v e Hydroxypropyl C e l l u l o s e i n SD A l c o h o l 40. When

complete, s l o w l y s i f t i n Dermacry l -79. Combine remain ing i n g r e d i e n t s , t h e n add t o a l c o h o l m i x t u r e . S t i r u n t i l u n i f o r m . Formula 7761-133

Waterproof Sunscreen Spray Mist SPF 16 (Tested)

Dermacryl LT p r o v i d e s water r e s i s t a n c e , i n c r e a s e d m o i s t u r e p r o t e c t i o n and r u b - o f f r e s i s t a n c e .

I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A: Anhydrous Ethanol De ion ized Water T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e (99%) Dermacryl-79

Phase B: Neo He1 iopan AV Neo He l iopan BB Neo He l iopan MA DC 344 F l u i d F i n s o l v TN V i t a m i n E A c e t a t e

Phase C: Fragrance

64.20 5.00 0 .30 1 .oo

7 .50 3 .00 3.50 5.00

10 .00 0.50

Q.S.

Procedure: Combine Phase A except Dermacry l -79. S l o w l y s i f t i n Derma-

c r y l - 7 9 . M i x u n t i l complete. Add Phase 8. Mix u n t i l complete. Add Phase C. M ix u n t i l complete and package. Formula 7172-44

SOURCE: N a t f o n a l S t a r c h and Chemfcal Co.: Suggested Formulas

448 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterproof Sunscreen W/O Emulsion SPF 22 (Static)

SPF 21 (Waterproo f ) I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : C e t y l D i methi cone Copol yo1 (and) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4

I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4.0 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 2 .0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 5 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 0 .5 Benzophenone-3 2 .0 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3 . 0 Sesame O i l 1 . o I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t P) 3 . 0 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 3 .0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t OP) 2 . 5 Phase B: Water 73 .4 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 Po lyqua te rn i um-1 0 0 . 3 Germaben I 1 0 .3 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogenize.

Waterproof Sunscreen W/O-EmulsionSPF 15

I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w

I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 4.0 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o Pol y e t h y l ene Wax 0 .5 Hydrogenated Cas to r O i l 0 . 5 O c t y l Methoxyci nnamate 3 . 0 Sesame O i l 1 . o I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegosof t P) 2 .0 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 3 .0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) 2 . 5 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegoso f t M) 1 . o C12-15 A1 k y l Benzoate 2 . 5 Phase B: Water 73.9 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-1 0 0 .3 Germaben I 1 0 . 3 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add 8 t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l ow energy

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t imes . 3 . . C o o l t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f rag rance . 4. Homogenize. SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Formulas BAM-2-l/BAM-2-15

Phase A : C e t y l D imeth icone Copo lyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

Sun Care Products 449

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base SPF 3.5

I n a r e d i e n t s : ?&& Phase A: C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0 M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 6 . 0 Cyc lometh icone ( A b i l B 8839) 4.0 C e t y l Dimeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e (Tegosof t M) 4 .0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 8 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . 2 Phase 8: Water 72.2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S Phase C: Fragrance Q.S Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C

2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy

3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4. Homogeni ze. F o r m u l a t i o n BJS-1-47

t o i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C.

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion Base SPF 3.7

I n a r e d i e n t s : Phase A: C e t y l Dimeth icone Copolyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 Iso-

s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0 M i n e r a l O i l 5 . 4 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 6 . 4 Cyc lometh icone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 .3 C e t y l Dimeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosof t M) 4 . 3 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 8 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 .2 Phase 8: Water 70.8 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S Phase C: Fragrance Q.S Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i 1 k y appearance a t a1 1 t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f ragrance. 4 . Homogenize. F o r m u l a t i o n BJS-1-15 SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp. : Suggested Formula t ions

450 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 21

Inciredi e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copolyol (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl Lau ra te ( A b i l WE-09) 5 .0 M ine ra l O i l 5 .3 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 4 .2 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 4.2 I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosof t M) 4 . 2 Almond O i 1 2 . 0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0.8 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 .2 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3 . 0 Phase B: Water 69.3 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P rese rva t i ves Q.S. Phase C : Fragrance Q.S . Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 8OC t o

2. Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy

3. Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m ixe r . Add f rag rance . 4. Homogeni ze.

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C.

m ixe r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t imes .

Waterproof W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF 15

I ng r e d i e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l D i methi cone Copol yo1 (Ab i 1 EM-90) 2 .0 M i n e r a l O i l 5 .9 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 4 .7 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 4 .7 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e (Tegosof t M) 4 .7 Almond O i 1 2.0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 8 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1.2 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 3 .0 Phase B : Water 69 .2 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0.8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. Phase C: Fragrance Q . S . Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m ix ing t o 8OC t o

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy

m ixe r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t imes . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m ixe r . Add f rag rance . 4. Homogenize. SOURCE: Goldschmi d t Chemical Corp. : Formulas BJS-1-35/BJS-1-53

Sun Care Products 451

Waterproof W/O Sun Protection Lotion SPF 17

I n g r e d i e n t s : Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copo lyo l ( A b i l EM-90) 2 .0 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Tegoso f t CT) 4 . 0 O c t y l P a l m i t a t e (Tegoso f t OP) 5 . 5 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 4 S y n t h e t i c Wax o r Beeswax 0 . 6 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 7 . 0 C e t y l D imeth icone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 5 .0 Benzophenone-3 1 . 5 Menthyl A n t h r a n i l a t e 3 . 0 Phase B : Water 73.9 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 6 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S . Fragrance Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 80C t o

2. Heat Phase 6 t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a l ow energy

3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m ixe r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homoaeni ze,

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C.

m i x e r . M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .

- Waterproof Sun Protection Lotion

(with 8% Titanium Dioxide) SPF 12

I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : C e t y l D i meth i cone Copol yo1 (Ab i 1 EM-90) 2 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegoso f t OS) 1 3 . 6 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 9 . 1 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 3 . 0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 5 M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne Wax 1 . o M ine ra l O i l 2 . 3 Phase B: T i tan ium D i o x i d e 8 . 0 Phase C : Water 6 0 . 0 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 5 Phase D : Fragrance, P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q.S. Procedure: 1 . Combine t h e i n g r e d i e n t s o f Phase A . Heat t o 80C t o m e l t and

2 . Add t h e T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . D ispe rse and m i l l t h e p igment .

3 . M ix Phase C . Heat t o 50C. Add t o Phase A/B s l o w l y w i t h l ow

4 . Cool t o 35C. Add Phase D . Homogenize.

SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp . : Formula BJS-1-43/BJS-1-33

d i s p e r s e t h e waxes. Cool t o 60C.

Cool t o 50C.

energy s t i r r e r . M a i n t a i n a m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .

452 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Water Resistant Sunscreen

A Veegum Pro Water

B G l y c e r i n T r i e t h a n o l a m i n e

C Amerscreen P C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r i c a c i d X X X SS4267 F l u i d I s o p r o p y l myr i s t a t e Synchrowax AW1 C Cerasynt MN

% B y Weiqht 1 . o

8 3 . 2

1 . 5 0 . 6

4 . 0 0 . 8 2 . 0 4 . 0 2 . 0 0 . 4 0 . 5

P r e s e r v a t i v e q . s .

Procedure:

w h i l e a g i t a t i n g a t maximum a v a i l a b l e shear . M i x u n t i l smooth. Add B t o A w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n u n t i l smooth. M a i n t a i n A/B a t 7 0 t o 75C; heat C t o 70 t o 75C. Add C t o A / B and m ix u n t i l c o o l .

Consi s tency : Medi um v i scos i t y 1 o t i on .

Suggested Packaging: Squeeze o r pump b o t t l e s .

Comments: Veegum PRO e f f e c t i v e l y s t a b i l i z e s t h e emuls ion

Heat t h e water t o 70 t o 75C, then s l o w l y add t h e Veegum PRO

even a t e l e v a t e d tempera tu res . T h i s l o t i o n , u s i n g s i l i c o n e f l u i d t o p r o v i d e an e m o l l i e n t water r e s i s t a n t p r o t e c t i v e b a r r i e r , i m p a r t s a non-greasy f e e l . The Amerscreen P a t 4% p r o v i d e s an e s t i m a t e d Sun P r o t e c t i o n f a c t o r o f 8 .

SOURCE: R . T . V a n d e r b i l t C o . , I n c . : F o r m u l a t i o n No. 418

Sun Care Products 453

Water Resistant Sunscreen

R e s u l t i n g p roduc t i s a v i scous sunscreen l o t i o n dispensed f rom a f l e x i b l e tube o r s o f t b o t t l e . The e x h i b i t s e x c e p t i o n a l water r e s i s t a n c e wh ich i s con Lexorez 100. The fo rmu la a p p l i e s e a s i l y and leaves f i l m on t h e s k i n . The sunscreen a c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t Methoxycinnamate. The SPF v a l u e o f t h e f o r m u l a t i o n

A . De ion ized Water Propy lene G l y c o l USP Methylparaben (Lexgard M ) Tet rasod ium EDTA (Hamp-ene Ma4)

8 . Carbomer (Carbopol ETD 2055)

C . Sodium Hydrox ide (10% w/w)

D . G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 515)

which can be f o r m u l a t i o n r i bu ted by a non-greasy s O c t y l i s unknown.

&!& 71 .45

7 .50 0 .20 0 . 0 5

0 . 1 5

OS

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) PEG-100 S t e a r a t e (Lexemul 561) C e t y l A l coho l NF Aluminum S ta rch Oc teny l succ ina te (Dry Flo-PC) C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e (Lexo l GT-865) I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e (and) I s o p r o p y l M y r i s t a t e

Tocopherol (Copherol F-1300) Propylparaben (Lexgard P) O c t y l Methoxyci nnamate ( E s c a l o l 557) G l y c e r i n / D i e t h y l e n e G l y c o l / A d i p a t e Crosspolymer

(and) I s o p r o p y l S t e a r a t e (Lexo l 3975)

(Lexorez 100)

4.00 1 - 0 0 0.50 1 - 0 0 3.00

1 - 0 0 0 . 0 5 0 .10 8 . 0 0

2 * 00

Procedure: 1. Combine a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n phase "A" and hea t t o 75-8OC.

A g i t a t e a t low speed. 2 . Slow ly add phase "B" t o phase "A" . A g i t a t e a t a h i g h e r speed

u n t i l a l l Carbomer i s f u l l y d i spe rsed . 3 . Combine phase "D" i n a separa te vesse l and heat t o 80-85C.

Add phase "0" t o phase "AB". M i x f o r f i v e minu tes and s t a r t t o c o o l .

4 . A t 45C a d j u s t f o r water l o s s . Mix u n t i l homogeneous. Then a d j u s t f o r v i s c o s i t y u s i n g 10% NaOH (9,500t-500 cps u s i n g s p i n d l e #6 @ 50rpm, 25C). The f i n a l p roduc t has a pH o f app rox ima te l y 6 .0 .

SOURCE: I n o l e x Chemical Co.: Fo rmu la t i on 383-208

454 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O SPF15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew

I n g r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: %_by Weight P a r t A : D i - (Chol e s t e r y l , behenyl , o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N-Lauroy l -L -g lu tamic a c i d es ter /E ldew CL-301 Oc ty ldodecy l Neopentanoate/Elefac 1-205 D i m e t h i c o n e ( a n d ) T r i m e t h y l s i l o x y s i 1 icate/Dow Corn ing 593 Propy lparaben Methylparaben Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1160 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX P a r t 8 : P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Dimethicone

P a r t C : De ion ized Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodi urn P C A / A j i dew N-50 P a r t i a l l y Deace ty la ted C h i t i n ( 1 .O%)/Marine Dew Propy lene G l y c o l

Copol yo1 (and) Hexyl Laura te /Ab i 1 WE09

2 .00 10.00 0 .50 0.05 0.15 0 .60 4.00 7 . 5 0

5 . 0 0

61.40 0 .80 1 . o o 2.00 5 . 0 0

Procedure : Pre-melt p a r t A a t 50 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A . Premix p a r t C u n t i l homogeneous. S low ly add p a r t C i n t o p a r t A and B m i x t u r e w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g .

Appearance: White, smooth, sh iny l o t i o n . pH: 6 .0 -6 .5 V i s c o s i t y : 10,000-20,000 (RVT#6 I3 lOrpm @ 25 degrees C)

Sunscreen Lip Balm with Eldew

I n g r e d i e n t / T r a d e Name: % by Weiqht P a r t A : Carnauba/Carnauba Wax #1 Ye l l ow 4 .00 Ozoker i te /Ozoker i t e Wax JH1680 4.00

Propylparaben 0 .15 Cholesteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroy l Glutamate/

P a r t B: Cas tor O i l 26.55 PPG-3 Hydrogenated Castor O i l / H e t e s t e r HCP 15.00 G l y c e r y l T r i a c e t y l Hydroxysteara te /Hetes ter HCA 15.00 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX 7 .50 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 5 .00

Tocopheryl Ace ta te /V i tam in E Ace ta te 0 .60 P a r t C :

Procedure:

a l l s o l i d s a r e comp le te l y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 65 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add P a r t C . M ix w e l l . F i l l . SOURCE: Ajinornoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

S y n t h e t i c Beeswax/Synthet ic Beeswax JH-1508 10.00

Eldew CL-301 10.00

O c t y l Sal i cy1 a te /Uv i n u l 0-1 8 2 . 0 0

B i s a b o l o l ( S y n t h e t i c ) 0.20

Heat P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 degrees Cen t ig rade . Mix u n t i l

Sun Care Products 455

W/O SPF 15 Sunscreen with Ajidew and Eldew

I n a r e d i e n t s / T r a d e Name: % by W e i a P a r t A : O i ( C h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl , o c t y l d e d e c y l ) N-Lauroyl -L-

Oc ty ldodecy l Neopentanoate/Elefac 1-205 Oimethicone(and)Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Qow Corn ing 593 Propylparaben Methylparaben Phenoxyethanol/Emeressence 1 160 Benzophenone-3/Uvinul M-40 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate/Parsol MCX

P a r t B: P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l Oimethicone

g l u t a m i c a c i d es te r /E ldew CL-301

Copo lyo l (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e / A b i l WE09

P a r t C : De ion ized Water Sodium C h l o r i d e Sodium PCA/Ajidew N-50 P a r t i a l l y Q e a c e t y l a t e d C h i t i n ( 1 .O%)/Marine Dew Propy l ene G1 y c o l

Procedure:

2 .00 10.00 0 . 5 0 0.05 0 . 1 5 0.60 4.00 7 . 5 0

5 .00

61.40 0 . 8 0 1 . o o 2 .00 5 .00

Pre-melt p a r t A a t 50 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add p a r t B t o p a r t A. Premix p a r t C u n t i l homogeneous. S low ly add p a r t C i n t o p a r t A and B m i x t u r e w i t h h i g h shear m i x i n g .

Appearance: Whi te , smooth, sh iny l o t i o n pH: 6 .0 -6 .5 V i s c o s i t y : 10,000-20,000 (RVT #6 @ 10 rpm @ 25 degrees C )

Procedure:

a l l s o l i d s a r e comp le te l y d i s s o l v e d . Add P a r t B i n g r e d i e n t s . Mix u n t i l u n i f o r m . Cool t o 65 degrees Cen t ig rade . Add P a r t C . M ix w e l l . F i l l .

SOURCE: Aj inomoto USA, I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i on

Heat P a r t A i n g r e d i e n t s t o 80 degrees Cen t ig rade . Mix u n t i l

456 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

W/O Sunscreen Lotion SPF-18

I n s r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : C e t y l Dimethicone Copo lyo l (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4

I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9801) 1 . o O c t y l P a l m i t a t e ( T e g o s o f t OP) 4 . 5

Cyclomethicone ( A b i l B 8839) 5 . 5 C a p r y l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e s (Tegosof t CT) 3.0

Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 4 S y n t h e t i c Wax 0 . 6 O c t y l Methoxycinnamate 5 . 0

Menthy l A n t h r a n i l a t e 3 . 0 Phase B : Water 69 .7 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i ves Q . S Procedure: 1 . Add t h e components o f Phase A . Heat w h i l e m i x i n g t o 85C t o

i n c o r p o r a t e t h e waxes. Cool t o 50C. 2 . Heat Phase B t o 50C. Add B t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy

m i x e r , M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s . 3 . Cool t o 35C w i t h sweep m i x e r . Add f r a g r a n c e . 4 . Homogenize. Formula GRH-2-31

Benzophenone-3 1 . 5

W/O Sunscreen LotionSPF-17

I n s r e d i e n t s : %w/w Phase A : C e t y l D i meth i cone Copol yo1 (and) Pol y g l y c e r y l - 4 -

I s o s t e a r a t e (and) Hexyl L a u r a t e ( A b i l WE-09) 5 . 0 C e t y l Dimethicone ( A b i l Wax 9814) 3 . 0 O c t y l S t e a r a t e (Tegosof t OS) 1 2 . 0 Cyclomethicone ( A b i l 8 8839) 8 . 0 M i n e r a l O i l 2 . 0 Hydrogenated Castor O i l 0 . 5 M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e Wax 1 . o Phase B : T i tan; um D i o x i d e 8 . 0 Phase C : Water 59 .7 Sodium C h l o r i d e 0 . 8 P r e s e r v a t i v e s Q . S Procedure: 1 . Heat Phase A t o 85C t o m e l t and d i s p e r s e waxes. 2 . Cool Phase A t o 50C. Add 8 t o A s l o w l y w i t h a low energy

3 . R o l l e r m i l l t o reduce p a r t i c l e s i z e o f T i t a n i u m D i o x i d e . 4 . Cool t o 50C. 5 . Heat Phase C t o 50C. Add Phase C w h i l e m i x i n g . 6 . Cool t o 35C and homogenize. Formula GRH-2-33 SOURCE: Goldschmidt Chemical Corp . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

m i x e r , M a i n t a i n a smooth m i l k y appearance a t a l l t i m e s .

Section XIIMiscellaneous

457

458 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Formula: 1 -Menthol SDA 39C Tween 60 A loe M o i s t

Aloe Medicated Gel With Alcohol (SDA 39C)

% 6 . 0 0 8.00 3.00

83.00

Per 20009 120.00 160.00 60.00

1660.00

Procedure ( W i t h a l c o h o l , SDA 39C): 1. Add A loe M o i s t t o l a r g e beaker . F i t w i t h s t i r r e r . 2 . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , m ix t h e menthol , a l c o h o l and Tween

3. W i t h slow-medium a g i t a t i o n add t h e m i x t u r e t o t h e A loe M o i s t 4. S t i r u n t i l a m i l k y w h i t e and homogeneous. 5 . F i l l i n t o HDPE j a r s .

and s t i r u n t i l c l e a r .

Aloe Medicated Gel Without Alcohol

Formula: 1 -Menthol Tween 60 A l o e M o i s t 3% Carbopol 940 TEA FDC Ye l low #5, 1% FDC B lue #1, 1%

% 3.00

12 .00 79.70

5 .00 0.30

qs qs

Per 759 2.259 9 . oog

59.789 3.759

0.2259 2 drops 2 drops

Procedure (Wi thout a l c o h o l ) : 1 . M i x 1-menthol and Tween 60 t o g e t h e r and heat t o about 45C. 2 . Heat A l o e M o i s t t o 55-58C - add c o l o r s . 3 . Add t h e menthol/Tween mix t o t h e A l o e M o i s t w i t h s t i r r i n g . 4 . Add t h e 3% Carbopol 940 and mix w e l l . 5. Add t h e TEA and mix w e l l , 6 . Cool t o room temp w i t h s low a g i t a t i o n .

SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c , : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Miscellaneous 459

Cetylpyridinium Chloride Mouthwash

I n a r e d i en ts : A C e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e , NF

C i t r i c Ac id , USP Peppermint o i 1, USP Euca lyp tus o i 1 , NF Clove o i l , USP Tween 60 A l c o h o l , USP

B *Co lor Sorbo, S o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n , USP Water, d e i o n i z e d

w 0.10 0.10 0.07 0 . 0 2 0.05 0.30

10 .00

20.00 69.36

* q . s . these i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure: D i s s o l v e t h e c e t y l p y r i d i n i u m c h l o r i d e and c i t r i c a c i d i n

w a t e r . Add t h e peppermint o i l , e u c a l y p t u s o i l and c l o v e o i l t o t h e Tween 20. Add t h e a l c o h o l s l o w l y w i t h a g i t a t i o n and add t h e water m i x t u r e . Add t h e Sorbo, water and c o l o r t o make t h e d e s i r e d volume.

Spearmint Mouthwash

I n n r e d i e n t s : A Tween 60, p o l y s o r b a t e 60

Spearmi n t f 1 avor o i 1

6 A r l a s o l v e D M I Ethanol (190 p r o o f )

Sodi um s a c c h a r i n USP Sodi um benzoate

C Water

w 0.32 0 . 2 4

10.00 10 .00

69.14 0.10 0.20

D Sorbo, 70% s o r b i t o l s o l u t i o n 10.00

Procedure:

w e l l . Add (D) t o ( C ) , mix w e l l . Add (CD) t o (AB) and mix w e l l . Formula PC 8207

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formula t ions

Mix (A) w e l l . Mix (B) w e l l . Add (B) t o (A) , mix w e l l . M ix ( C )

460 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Clear Gel without DEA

produce a mic roemuls ion g e l which e x h i b i t s c l a r i t y and possesses a manageable s e t p o i n t (80C), u s i n g po tass ium hyd rox ide i n p l a c e o f t h e DEA. Lower e t h o x y l a t e s l i k e t h e Volpos and Crodafoses used he re a r e t h e e m u l s i f i e r s o f c h o i c e f o r c l e a r ge l f o r m u l a t i o n s , s i nce l e s s e t h o x y l a t e d ma te r i a1 s have been shown t o cause l e s s i r r i t a t i o n . The power fu l e m u l s i f y i n g p r o p e r t i e s o f t hese e s t e r s y i e l d an ex t reme ly e f f i c i e n t system i n which a 1 : l r a t i o o f e m u 1 s i f i e r : o i l c o n c e n t r a t i o n i s ach ieved - a ba lance t h a t minim- i z e s i r r i t a t i o n p o t e n t i a l and o p t i m i z e s ge l f o r m a t i o n . I n n r e d i e n t s : % P a r t A : Dei o n i zed Water 52.6 Propy lene G l y c o l 12 .0 P a r t 8 : Volpo 3 (O le th -3 ) 7 .0 Volpo 5 (O le th -5 ) 4 . 0 Crodafos N3A (O le th -3 Phosphate) 2.0 Crodafos N l O A (O le th -10 Phosphate) 4 . 0 M i n e r a l O i l (7Ossu) 17.0 P a r t C: KOH (25% Aq. S o l n . ) 1 . 4 Procedure:

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t B w i t h m i x i n g and heat t o 90-95C. Add P a r t C t o P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g . Add P a r t A/C t o P a r t 0 w i t h m i x i n g u s i n g a p r o p e l l e r b l a d e m i x e r . Avo id a e r a t i o n as much as p o s s i b l e . Cool t o des i r e d f i 11 tempera ture , c o o l i n g a t a PC/mi n r a t e . Set p o i n t app rox ima te l y 80C.

Formula CG-25

T h i s fo rmu la c o n t a i n s no d ie thano lamine , y e t i s a b l e t o

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 90-Q5C.

E m u 1 s i f i e r : O i l R a t i o : 1 : l Set P o i n t : 80C

Silicone Emulsion

T h i s p roduc t uese I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS t o fo rm a s t a b l e emuls ion ( 1 month @ 50C), s p e c i f i c a l l y w i t h F l u i d 200 (200 c s ) b u t a l s o s u i t a b l e f o r o t h e r s i l i c o n e f l u i d s , f o r V o l a t i l e S i 1 i cone and d i meth i cone I I n a r e d i e n t s : % P a r t A: Dei o n i zed Water 72.0 I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS (Behentr imoniurn M e t h o s u l f a t e

(and) C e t e a r y l A l c o h o l ) 7 .0 S i 1 i cone F1 u i d (2OOcps) 20.0 P a r t 0 : Germaben I1 1 .o Procedure:

Cool t o 40C w i t h m i x i n g and add P a r t B. Cool w i t h m i x i n g t o des i r e d f i 11 tempera ture . Formula SC-231 SOURCE: Croda I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Combine i n g r e d i e n t s o f P a r t A w i t h m i x i n g and hea t t o 80-85C.

Miscellaneous 461

Clear Ringing Gel

I n a r e d i e n t s : A M i n e r a l o i 1, Carna t ion brand

B r i j 93 A r l aso l ve 200L

B Propy lene g l y c o l Sorbo Water, d e i o n i z e d

w 11 . o o 6 .00

27.80

5 .00 7 . 0 0

43.20

Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . Remove f rom heat and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r (about 65C) pour i n t o tubes o r j a r s .

Heat (A) t o 9OC and (E) t o 95C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h

Clear Ringing Gel

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

M i n e r a l o i 1, Carna t ion brand B r i j 93 A r l a s o l v e 200L

B Propy lene g l y c o l Sorbo Water, d e i o n i z e d

w 5.00 6.00 6.00 27.80

5 .00 7.00

43.20

Procedure: Heat (A) t o 9OC and ( 6 ) t o 95C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) w i t h moderate

s t i r r i n g . Remove f rom heat and c o n t i n u e t o s t i r as t h e m i x t u r e c o o l s . When t h e m i x t u r e t u r n s c l e a r (about 65C) pour i n t o tubes o r j a r s . Formula PC 8180

Clear Gel Base

I n a r e d i e n t s : A r l aso l ve DMI Hyroxypropy l c e l l u l ose

W W 96,OO

4.00

Procedure: S low ly s p r i n k l e t h e hydroxypropy l c e l l u l o s e i n t h e A r l a s o l v e

DMI as you r a p i d l y a g i t a t e . S t i r u n t i l c l e a r . A ge l w i l l f o rm upon s t a n d i n g . Gel s t r e n g t h v a r i e s w i t h t h i c k e n e r c o n c e n t r a t i o n A c t i v e i n g r e d i e n t s shou ld be d i s s o l v e d i n A r l a s o l v e D M I p r i o r t o a d d i t i o n o f hyd roxyp ropy l c e l l u l o s e .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

462 Cosmetic and Toile@ Formulations

Cream Sachet

I n a r e d i e n t s : A A r l a c e l 165

Spermaceti Ce ty l a l c o h o l I s o p r o p y l m y r i s t a t e

Water, d e i on i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e

0 A t l a s G-2162

C Fragrance

q . s . t h e s e i n g r e d i e n t s

%w/w 1 6 . 0 0

5 .00 5 .00 3 .00 2 . 0 0

59.00

1 0 . 0 0

Procedure:

moderate b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . Add (C) a t 45C. S t i r u n t i l room tempera ture and package.

Heat (A) t o 75C. Heat ( € 3 ) t o 77C. Add ( B ) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h

Liquid Cologne

I n g r e d i e n t s : Perfume o i l Tween 20 Water * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t hese i ngred i en ts

%w/w 5 . 0 0

21 . 5 0 73,50

Procedure:

t h e water and add p r e s e r v a t i v e . S t i r u n t i l a c l e a r p roduc t r e s u l t s .

Mix t h e perfume o i l and Tween 2 0 . S low ly add t h i s m i x t u r e t o

Solid Cologne

I n q r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c a c i d , t r i p l e pressed 5 . 0 0

Sorbo 2 .00 A1 coho1 I SD-40 83.00

B Sodium hyd rox ide t o s a p o n i f y t h e 5% s t e a r i c a c i d Water, d e i o n i z e d 5 . 0 0

C Perfume o i l 5 .00

Procedure:

Add (C) a t 55-6OC. Pour i n t o heated molds. Cool s l o w l y t o p reven t f o r m a t i o n of a i r pockets and t o ach ieve t h e g r e a t e s t t r a n s l u c e n c y . Unmold, wrap i n f o i l and package i n a i r t i g h t c o n t a i n e r s .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat ( A ) t o 65C and ( B ) t o 70C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a t i o n .

Miscellaneous 463

High-Luster Toothpaste

I n g r e d i e n t s : P a r t A : ( 1 ) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) ( 2 ) De ion ized Water P a r t 0: ( 3 ) K a o p o l i t e SF ( 4 ) D i c a l c i um Phosphate D i h y d r a t e ( 5 ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e (6) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) ( 7 ) Tr imagnesi um Phosphate ( 8 ) K o r t h i x H (9) Sodi um Sacchar i n (10)Methy l Paraben ( 1 1 )Propy l Paraben P a r t C : ( 1 2 ) F l a v o r i n g O i l

% bv Wei a h t

30.00 17.52

24.25 24.25

2 .00 0.80 0.50 0.25 0 . 2 0 0 .18 0.05

q . s .

Procedure: M i x ( 1 ) and ( 2 ) . I n a separa te c o n t a i n e r , t h o r o u g h l y d r y -

b l e n d i n g r e d i e n t s ( 3 ) th rough ( 1 1 ) . Add P a r t 8 s l o w l y t o P a r t A . M ix t h o r o u g h l y . Add P a r t C, m i l l t w i c e and deaera te .

each p r o d u c t used. F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f

Denture Cleaner

I n g r e d i e n t s : ( 1 ) De ion ized Water ( 2 ) K o r t h i x H ( 3 ) Carboxymethyl C e l l u l o s e (medium v i s c o s i t y ) ( 4 ) S o r b i t o l (70% s o l u t i o n ) ( 5 ) G l y c e r i n (6) Sodi urn Sacchar in ( 7 ) K a o p o l i t e 1147 ( 8 ) Sodium L a u r y l S u l f a t e ( 9 ) F l a v o r , P r e s e r v a t i v e & C o l o r a n t

% bv Weiaht 30.8

1 .5 0 . 5

10.0 10.0

0 .2 45.0

2.0 q . s .

Procedure:

a t h i g h shear u n t i l w e l l d i s p e r s e d . Reduce speed and add ( 4 ) , (51, and ( 6 ) . S l o w l y add ( 7 ) and c o n t i n u e t o mix u n t i l w e l l d ispersed. Then add ( 8 ) . Add (9) and m i l l t w i c e and deaera te .

F o l l o w recommended h a n d l i n g p r a c t i c e s o f t h e s u p p l i e r o f each p r o d u c t used.

SOURCE: K a o p o l f t e , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

Mix ( 2 ) i n t o ( 1 ) w i t h h i g h shear . Add ( 3 ) and c o n t i n u e m i x i n g

464 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Hydrophilic O/W Ointment Base

I n g r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

8 Propylene g l y c o l P e t r o l a t u m

M y r j 52 Methy l paraben & p r o p y l paraben Water, d e i o n i zed

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) w i t h Procedure:

a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .

Emollient Anhydrous Ointment

I n g r e d i e n t s :

Ar lamol E A r l a c e l 186 Procedure:

t empera tu re .

G-1726

Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room

W/O Ointment Base

I n g r e d i e n t s : P e t r o l a t u m A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n sesqu Procedure:

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) moderate, b u t t ho rough a g i

o l e a t e

t o 72C. Add (B) a t i o n . S t i r u n t

9gdJvJ 25.00 25.00 12.00

5 .00 0 . 4 0

32.60

w 10.00 40 .00 50.00

?&bJ/J 5 4 . 0 0

6 .00

t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h 1 room tempera tu re .

Washable Anhydrous Base

I n g r e d i e n t s : 9gdJvJ P e t r o l a t u m 95.00 Tween 61 o r Tween 81 o r M y r j 52 5.00 Procedure:

t empera tu re . Heat a l l i n g r e d i e n t s u n t i l l i q u i d and s t i r u n t i l room

Washable Anhydrous Base

I n g r e d i e n t s : H y d r o p h i l i c Pe t ro la tum, Tween 60 Procedure:

Heat a1 1 i n g r e d i e n t s tempera tu re .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s

U.S.P.

u n t i l l i q u i d and

Suggested Formu

50.00 50.00

s t i r u n t i l room

a t i ons

Miscellaneous 465

Jojoba Massage Oil

M i n e r a l O i l I s o p r o p y l P a l m i t a t e Coconut O i l #76 Jo joba O i l Almond O i 1 Sweet Acet u 1 an Glucam P-20 Dow Corni ng S i 1 i cone V i t a m i n E

344

E 61.5 24.0 5.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 1 . o 2.0 0.5

Fragrance q . s .

Procedure: Load a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a s t a i n l e s s s t e e l k e t t l e . Warm

s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r w i t h a g i t a t i o n , add Fragrance and package.

Massage Oil

S o l u l a n P B 5 Dow Corn ing S i . l i c o n e #344 Emerest 2314 Drakeol #9 Coconut O i l Esca lo l 507 Ross Jo joba O i 1 Perfume Nova Rome DE 51

% 3.0 16.0 13.0 31 .O 31 .O 3.0 3.0 q . s .

Procedure:

under a g i t a t i o n and package.

SOURCE: Frank 8 . Ross Co., I n c . : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Load a l l i n g r e d i e n t s i n t o a v e s s e l . Warm s l i g h t l y u n t i l c l e a r

466 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Micro-Emulsions with Aloe Vera and d-Limonene

The f o l 1 owing fo rmulas a r e c l e a r , m i croemul s i ons o f d -L i monene and A l o e Vera. They r e p r e s e n t t h e range o f d-Limonene and A l o e Vera c o n c e n t r a t i o n s commonly used as degreas ing s o l v e n t c l e a n e r s . These f o r m u l a s a r e g e n e r a l l y used by d i l u t i n g i n water (1->16 o z . / g a l l o n depending on t h e use r e q u i r e m e n t s ) . The formulas a r e c l e a r and e x h i b i t a bloom e f f e c t upon d i l u t i o n .

d - L i monene Monamul se DL-1 273v Isopropano l Water A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)

d -L i monene Monamulse DL-1273 Isopropano l Water A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)

d -L i monene Monamulse DL-1273 A l o e Vera Gel ( T e r r y AG002)

%w/w 10.0 18.0 10 .0 42.0 20 .0

?&& 35.0 28.0

5 . 0 1 2 . 0 20 .0

w 65.0 23.0 12.0

Procedure:

c o m p l e t e l y d i s s o l v e d and o f un i fo rm c o n s i s t e n c y . Add t h e Iso- propano l , m i x i n g u n t i l homogeneous. Pre-mix A l o e Vera Gel w i t h w a t e r . S l o w l y add t o b a t c h w i t h s t i r r i n g u n t i l u n i f o r m .

SOURCE: T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . : Suggested Formula t ions

I n a l l cases, mix Monamulse DL-1273 w i t h d-Limonene u n t i l

Miscellaneous 467

Modified Petrolatum

I nnred i e n t s : Whi te p e t r o l a t u m USP Ar lamol ISML, I s o s o r b i d e monolaurate G-695, g l y c e r o l monooleate

w 75.00 20.00

5.00

Procedure: Add phase (A) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t h e a t . Add phase

(B) and heat t o 8OC and s t i r i n phase (C) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( D ) . Formula CP 1051

Modified Petrolatum

I n a r e d i e n t s : Pet ro la tum, Whi te P r o t o p e t Span 40, s o r b i t a n monopalmi ta te A r l a t o n e G, PEG 25 hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

Procedure:

Formula CP 1095 M e l t and m i x .

Modified Petrolatum

I n n r e d i e n t s : Pet ro la tum, Whi te P r o t o p e t Span 40, s o r b i t a n monopalmi ta te A r l a t o n e G, PEG 25 hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

Procedure: M e l t and mix

Formula CP 1096

Washable Oil

I n q r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

A t l a s 673500

w 60.00 24.00 16.00

w 50.00 30.00 20.00

w 71.40 14.30

B B r i j 30 9.50

C Dow Corn ing 344 cyc lometh icone 4 . 8 0

Procedure:

and mix we1 1 . Formula CP 1117

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

Mix (8 ) w e l l , Add ( 8 ) t o (A) and mix w e l l . Add (C) t o (AB)

468 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Ointment Base

I n q r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l a l c o h o l

B Sorbo

A r l a c e l 165

Water, d e i o n i zed

C A r l a s o l v e D M I

D * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

7 . 0 0 5 .03

5 . 0 0 73 .00

10.00

Procedure:

good a g i t a t i o n and add (C) a t 35C and mix t h o r o u g h l y . Add ( D ) . Replace water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n . Package.

Heat (A) t o 72C and (B) t o 75C. Add (8) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Anhydrous Ointment

I n a r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol ISML, i s o s o r b i d e monolaurate A r l ace1 186, g l y c e r o l monool ea te Pe t ro la tum, P e r f e c t a USP *Perfume o r a c t i v e s

*q . s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .

Procedure: Add phase (A) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t

( 6 ) and hea t t o 80C and s t i r i n phase ( C ) . Coo and add phase (D) .

heat wh i

Zinc Oxide Ointment-Anhydrous

I n q r e d i e n t s : A r l amol ISML, i sosorb i de mono1 a u r a t e A r l a c e l 186, g l y c e r o l monooleate Pet ro la tum, P e r f e c t a USP Z i n c ox ide , USP *Perfume o r a c t i v e s

w 25.00

7 . 0 0 68 .00

Add phase e s t i r r i n g

%m 20.00

5 .60 5 4 - 4 0 20 .00

Procedure: Add phase ( A ) t o g e t h e r and s t i r w i t h s l i g h t hea t . Add phase

(B) and hea t t o 80C and s t i r i n phase (C) . Cool w h i l e s t i r r i n g and add phase ( D ) . Formula CP 1035

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Miscellaneous 469

O/W Ointment Base

I n g r e d i e n t s : %* A Pe t ro la tum 15.00

M i n e r a l o i l 15.00 Spermaceti 5 .00 A r l a c e l 40, s o r b i t a n monopalmitate 5.00 Tween 40, po l yoxye thy lene s o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e 5 .00

B Water, d e i o n i z e d 55.00 * P r e s e r v a t i v e *q. s . t hese i ngred i e n t s .

Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

Heat ( A ) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

O/W Ointment Base

I n s r e d i e n t s : w A C e t y l a l c o h o l 20.00

M i n e r a l o i l 20.00 A r l ace1 80, s o r b i t a n monool e a t e 0 . 5 0 Tween 80, po l yoxye thy lene s o r b i t a n monooleate 4.50

B Water de i o n i zed 55 .00 * P r e s e r v a t i v e * q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o ( A ) s l o w l y w i t h Procedure:

moderate s t i r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o e v a p o r a t i o n .

O/W Ointment Base

I n q r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 15.00

Beeswax 5.00 M i n e r a l o i l 15.00 A r l a c e l 80, s o r b i t a n monooleate 1.25

0 Water, d e i o n i zed 60.00 Tween 80, po l yoxye thy lene s o r b i t a n monooleate 3.75

* P r e s e r v a t i v e *a. s . these i ngred i e n t s .

Procedure: Heat ( A )

moderate s t evapora t i on

SOURCE: IC1

t o 70C. Heat (8 ) t o 72C. Add ( 6 ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h r r i n g . S t i r t o 35C and add water l o s t due t o

S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

470 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Oil-In-Water-In-Silicone Emulsion

O i 1 -i n-water Emu1 s i on Phase: Water P a n t e t h i n e (80% aq. s o l . ) Methy lparaben Carbomer 940 G l y c e r i n e Sodium a1 k y l p o l y e t h e r s u l f o n a t e B lando l M i n e r a l O i l C h o l e s t e r o l C e t y l p a l m i t a t e PEG-22 dodecyl g l y c o l copolymer E thy lpa raben Propylparaben

S i 1 i cone Phase : Cyclomethicone/dimethicone (9O: lO) Cyclomethicone/dimethiconol (13:87) Cyc lometh icone Phenyld imeth icone Pare th 15-3 Octy lmethoxyc innamate Benzophenone C12-15 a1 coho1 s benzoate C o l o r Fragrance

Protein-Lecithin Complex Emulsion

C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i 1 P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m C e t y l a l c o h o l G l y c e r y l monostearate C a s e i n - l e c i t h i n complex Propylene g l y c o l Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e Water

61 .54% 0 . 1 0 0 . 2 0 0 .10 2.50 1 . 2 5 1 .75 1 . o o 0 .20 0 .20 0 .10 0 .15

9 .50 5 .00 3 .00 1 . o o 2 .00 7.00 0 .50 2 .85 0 . 0 3 0 .03

45.00% 10.00

1 .50 3 .00 3 .00 5 .00 0 . 5 0

qs q s t o 1 0 0 . 0

Skin Growth Accelerator

5-Methoxy-6,7-methylenedioxy-Isoflavone-4-O-B-D-gluc-

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l 18.00 Lanol i n 20.00 Po lyoxye thy lene monooleate 0 . 2 5 G l y c e r y l monostearate 0.25 P r o t o p e t 1 S P e t r o l a t u m 40.00 Water 16.50

SOURCE: Wi t co Corp . : Pe t ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested

o s i de 5.00%

F o r m u l a t i o n s

Miscellaneous 471

Pharmaceutical Cream Base

I n g r e d i e n t s : %w/w A S t e a r y l A l coho l 6 . 0 0

A r l a c e l 165 6 . 0 0 6 Sorbo, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP 5 . 0 0

Water 83 .00

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a - Procedure:

t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .

Pharmaceutical Cream Base

I n g r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c Ac id 1 0 . 0 0

S t e a r y l A l coho l 5 . 0 0 Tween 60 3 . 0 0 Span 60 1 .oo

6 Water 81 -00 Procedure:

t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t . Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a -

Pharmaceutical Cream Base

I n q r e d i e n t s : A S t e a r i c A c i d 10 .00

S t e a r y l A1 coho1 5 .00 Corn O i l 3 . 0 0 I s o p r o p y l Myr i s t a t e 2 . o o M y r j 52 3 .00 Span 60 2.00

6 Sorbo, S o r b i t o l S o l u t i o n USP 5 .00 Water 70.00

Procedure: Hear (A) t o 70C. Heat (6) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a -

t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .

Pharmaceutical Ointment Base

I n q r e d i e n t s : A C e t y l A l coho l 20 .00

Corn O i l 20 .00 Tween 80 4 . 5 0 Span 80 0 . 5 0

6 Water 55.00 Procedure:

t i o n . S t i r u n t i l s e t .

SOURCE: I C 1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 70C. Heat ( 6 ) t o 72C. Add (6) t o (A) w i t h a g i t a -

472 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Washable Oil

I n g r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol S3 B r i j 30 A r l a t o n e T

Procedure:

Formula CP 1111 M i x w e l l a t room tempera ture ,

Washable Oil

I n q r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol E A t l a s G73500

%U 50.00 50.00

Procedure:

Fromula CP 1112 Mix w e l l a t room tempera ture ,

Washable Oil

I n q r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol S3 I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e B r i j 93 B r i j 30 Water

Procedure:

Formula CP 1115 M i x w e l l a t room tempera ture .

Washable Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

B B r i j 30 C Dow Corn ing 344 cyc lometh icone

A t l a s G73500

?&yy 80% 00 10.00 10.00

w 60.00 30.00

5.00 4 . 6 0 0.40

%fl 50.00 25.00 20.00

5 .00

Procedure:

and mix w e l l . Formula CP 1116

Mix (B) w e l l . Add (6 ) t o ( A ) and mix w e l l . Add (C) t o (AB)

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Formulat ions

Miscellaneous 473

Washable Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

B B r i j 30 Water

Procedure:

Formula CP 1109 Mix (B ) we1 1 . Add (B) t o (A) and mix w e l l .

Washable Oil

I n s r e d i e n t s : A Ar lamol E

B A r l a c e l 186 A r l a t o n e T

%U 79 I 50

2 0 . 0 0 0.50

y#fy 70.00

10.00 2 0 . 0 0

Procedure:

t o g e t h e r a t room tempera ture and s t i r w e l l . Formula CP 1110

Mix ( 8 ) w e l l , u s i n g heat t o c l a r i f y t h e A r l a c e l 186. Mix (A&B)

Washable Oil

I n s r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol E A r l a c e l 186 B r i j 93

Procedure:

Formula CP 1113 Mix w e l l a t room tempera ture .

Washable Oil

I n a r e d i e n t s : Ar lamol E I s o p r o p y l p a l m i t a t e B r i j 93

Procedure:

Formula CP 1114

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested F o r m u l a t i o n s

M i x w e l l a t room tempera ture .

y#fy 65.00 15.00 20.00

y&& 60.00 30.00 10.00

474 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Wound Healing Accelerator

P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e g l y c o l monostearate G l y c e r y l monostearate S t e a r i c a c i d Behenyl a l c o h o l B lando l M i n e r a l O i l G l y c e r y l t r i o c t a n o a t e Koj i c a c i d d i pa lmi t a t e P r e s e r v a t i v e and f r a g r a n c e 1,3 B u t y l e n e g l y c o l A1 1 a n t o i n Water

Massage Gel

2-Hexadecyl phosphate a r g i n i n e s a l t Water G l y c e r i n D i p r o p y l ene g l y c o l I s o s t e a r y l d i g l y c e r i d e C a r n a t i o n M i n e r a l O i l C e t y l a l c o h o l S t e a r y l a l c o h o l Fragrance P r e s e r v a t i v e

2 .00% 5 . 0 0 5 .00 1 . o o 1 . o o 5 . 0 0 2 . 0 0

qs 5 . 0 0 0 . 1 0

qs t o 1 0 0 . 0 0

1.20% 3.60

14.00 8 .70

36.00 35.50

0 . 4 0 0.60

9 , s . 9 , s .

Petrolatum Stick

T h i s h i g h p e t r o l a t u m s t i c k o f f e r s t h e w e l l known b e n e f i t s o f p e t r o l a t u m i n an easy t o use form.

P r o t o p e t 1s P e t r o l a t u m Syncrowax HGLC Syncrowax ERCL

85.0% 12 .0

3 . 0

Procedure: Combine t h e p e t r o l a t u m and t h e syncrowaxes. M ix w h i l e h e a t i n g

t o 80C. Cool t o 65-701) and p o u r . C h i l l t h e molds o r t h e cases t o 40C p r i o r t o p o u r i n g .

SOURCE: Wi tco Corp . : P e t r o l a t u m S p e c i a l t i e s Group: Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Miscellaneous 475

W/O Ointment Base

I n n r e d i e n t s : A M ine ra l o i l

Beeswax Lanol i n A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e

B Borax Water, de i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

w 5 0 . 0 0 1 0 . 0 0

3 .10 1 . o o

0 .70 35.20

Procedure:

moderate, b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room tempera tu re . Heat ( A ) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add ( B ) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

W/O Ointment Base

I n g r e d i e n t s : A Pe t ro la tum

M i n e r a l o i l Beeswax A r l ace1 83, s o r b i t a n sesqu io l ea te

B Water, d e i o n i zed * P r e s e r v a t i v e

w 40.00 15 .00 4.00 6.00

35.00

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Heat (A) t o 70C and (B) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h Procedure:

moderate, b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room tempera tu re .

W/O Ointment Base

I nqred i en t s : A Pe t ro la tum

A r l a c e l 83, s o r b i t a n s e s q u i o l e a t e

B Water, d i s t i l l e d * P r e s e r v a t i v e

w 5 4 . 0 0

6 .00

40.00

* q . s . t hese i n g r e d i e n t s .

Procedure:

moderate, b u t thorough a g i t a t i o n . S t i r u n t i l room tempera tu re .

SOURCE: IC1 S u r f a c t a n t s : Suggested Fo rmu la t i ons

Heat (A) t o 70C and ( B ) t o 72C. Add (B) t o (A) s l o w l y w i t h

Section XIII Trade-Named Raw Materials

4 76

Trade-Named Raw Materials 477

RAW MATERIALS

A b i l AV20

A b i l 88839

A b i l B8851

A b i l 88852

A b i l 89950

A b i l B88183

A b i l EM-90

Abi 1 WE09

A b i l OSW12

A b i l Quat 3270

A b i l Quat 3272

A b i l Quat 3474

A b i l S201

A b i l Wax 2434

A b i l Wax 9800

Abi 1 Wax 9801

A b i l Wax 9809

Abi 1 Wax 9814

Abi 1 WE-09

A b i l 100

A b i l 350

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Phenyl t r i m e t h i c o n e

Cyclomethicone

D i meth i cone copo l yo1

D i meth i cone copo l yo1

D i meth i cone p r o p y l PG b e t a i ne

D i meth i cone copo l yo1

C e t y l d imeth icone c o p o l y o l

P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r a t e (and) C e t y l D i meth i cone Copolyo l (and) Hexyl Laura te

Cyclomethicone (and) Dimeth- i c o n o l (and) Dimeth icone

Q u a t e r n i um-80

Quatern i um-80

Quaternium-80

D i meth i cone/Sodi um PG Propy l Dimeth icone T h i o s u l f a t e Copolymer

S tearoxy d imeth icone

S t e a r y l

C e t y l d

S t e a r y l

C e t y l d

d imeth icone

meth i cone

meth icone

meth icone

C e t y l D i meth i cone Copol yo1 (and) P o l y g l y c e r y l - 4 I s o s t e a r - a t e (and) Hexyl Laura te

SOURCE

Goldschmidt

Go1 dschmi d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Goldschmidt

Go1 dschmi d t

Goldschrni d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Goldschmidt

Goldschmi d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Go 1 dsc hm

Go 1 dsc hm

Goldschm

d t

d t

d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Goldschmidt

Goldschmidt

Go1 dschmi d t

D i meth i cone Go1 dschmi d t

Dimeth icone Go1 dschmi d t

478 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Abil 500 Di methi cone Go1 dschmi dt

Abil 1000 Dimethicone Go1 dschmi dt

A-C Copolymer 400 Ethyl ene-vi nyl acetate copolyrnerAl1 ied Si g-

A-C Polyethy

A-C Polyethy

Acetol

Acetol 1706

Acetul an

A-C Copolymer 540 Copolymer

A-C Copolymer 580 Copolymer

A-C Polyethylene 9A Polyethylene

A-C Polyethylene 617 Polyethylene

ene 61 7A Polyethylene

ene 617G Polyethylene

Acritamer 940

Acritamer 941

Acrysol ICs-I

Active #4

Acuscrub 44

Acuscrub 50

Acylglutamate HS-11

Adogen MA-108

Adol 52

Adol 52 NF

Adriano 0/235970

Aerosil R972

Acetylated 1 anol in a1 cohol

Acetylated 1 anol i n a1 cohol

Acetylated lanol i n alcohol

Carbomer 940

Carbomer 941

Acry la te /S teare th -20 /Meth- acrylate Copol ymer

Scrub agent

Scrub agent

Surfactant

Dimethyl stearami ne

Cetyl alcohol

Cetyl alcohol

Fragrance

Fumed silica

Allied Sig-

Allied Sig-

Allied Sig-

Allied Sig-

Allied Sig-

Allied Sig-

Henkel

Henkel

Ame r c ho 1

RITA

RITA

Rohm&Haas

E1 ew

Allied Sig-

Allied Sig-

Aj i nomoto

Wi tco

Wi tco

Wi tco

Degu s s a

Trade-Named Raw Materials 479

RAW MATERIALS

A G I T a l c

A j i dew N-50

A j i dew T-50

A l c o l e c BS

A1 conate SBR-3

Aldo HMS

A ldo MCT

A l f o l 18

Alkamide DL 203/S

Alkamide DC 212/S

A1 kamide D I N 295/S

A1 kamide LE

A1 kamul EGMS

A1 1 a n t o i n

A loe E x t r a c t

A loe M o i s t

A loe Vera 200X

A loe Veragel 200

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

T a l c

Sodium PCA

P y r r o l i d o n e c a r b o x y l i c a c i d

S i n g l e b leached l e c i t h i n

Sodium pe t ro leum s u l f o n a t e

G1 y c e r y l monostearate

Capry l i c c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

A1 kanol ami de

A1 kano l ami de

A1 kano

A1 kano

A1 oe

A1 oe

A1 oe

A1 oe

ami de

ami de

A loe Vera Gel Deco lo r i zed 1 X

Aloe Vera L i q u i d A1 oe

A loe Veragel L i p o i d A loe

A loe Veragel L i q u i d 1 : l

Aloe Veragel L i q u i d Concent ra te 1 :40

A l p i n e F l o r a l i s t i c Fragrance

SOURCE

Whi t t a k e r

A j i nomoto

A j i nomoto

Amer Lech

W i t c o

Lonza

Lonza

V i s t a

Rhone-

Rhone-

Rhone-

Rhone-

I C 1

T e r r y

T e r r y

D r . Madis

D r . Madis

T e r r y

D r . Madis

D r . Madis

D r . Madis

D r . Madis

A1 p i ne

480 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

A1 p i ne 165-049

A luge l DF30

Amerchol CAB

Amerchol H-9

Amerchol L-101

Amerchol 400

Amerl a t e

Amer la te P

Amerscreen P

Amihope LL

Amiso f t CA

A m i s o f t CS-11

A m i s o f t CT-12

Ami te r LG-OD

A m i t e r LGOD-2

Ami te r LGS-2

Ammonyx KP

AMP

AMP-95

Amphi s o l

Amphisol A

Amphisol K

Ampholyt JA140

Amphol y t JB130

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Fragrance

Aluminum hyd rox ide

S t e r o l emul s i f i e r / s t a b

S t e r o l e m u l s i f i e r / s t a b

M ine ra l o i l and l a n o l i n

S t e r o l emul s i f i e r / s t a b i

I s o p r o p y l 1 anol a t e

Lanol i n f a t t y a c i d /es te

1 i zer

l i z e r

a l c o h o l

i zer

E t h y l d i hydroxypropy l PABA

Lauroy l l y s i n e

Cocoyl g lu tamate

Sodium cocoy l g lu tamate

TEA-Cocoyl g lu tamate

D i - o c t y l d o d e c y l l a u r o y l g lu tamate

D i s t e a r e t h - 2 1 a u r o y l g lu tamate

Olea1 konium c h l o r i d e

2-ami no-2-methyl -1 -propanol

2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol

DEA-Cetyl phosphate

Potassium c e t y l phosphate

Sodium lauroamphoacetate

Cocami dopropy l b e t a i n e

SOURCE

A 1 p i ne

Gui 1 i n i

Amerchol

Amerc ho 1

Amerchol

Amerchol

Amerchol

Amerc ho 1

Arne r c h o 1

A j inomoto

A ] i nomoto

A j i nomoto

A j inomoto

A j i nomoto

A j i nomoto

A j i nomoto

Stepan

Angus

Angus

G i vaudan

G i vaudan

G i vaudan

Hu ls

Hul s

Trade-Named Raw Materials 481

RAW MATERIALS

Amphomer LV-71

Amphotensi d 84

Amphotensid GB 2009

Amphotensid 9M

Antaron V-220

A n t i l 141 L i q u i d

A n t i l 1418

Ant

Ant

Ant

APT

1 1415

1 HS60

1 171

Aquasol 104

A r l ace1 -C

A r l a c e l 20

A r l a c e l 40

A r l a c e l 60

A r l a c e l 80

A r l a c e l 83

A r l a c e l 85

A r l a c e l 165

A r l a c e l 186

A r l a c e l 481

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Propylene g l y c o l p r o p y l ene g l yco

PEG-55 propy lene

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

I S P

(and) PEG-55 Goldschmidt o l e a t e

g l y c o l o l e a t e Go1 dschmi d t

PEG-55 propy lene g l y c o l o l e a t e Go1 dschmi d t

Cocamidopropyl B e t a i n e (and) Goldschmidt G l y c e r y l L a u r a t e

PEG-18 G l y c e r y l g l y c o l cocoate/ Goldschmidt 01 e a t e

Aloe v e r a g e l

Emul s i f y i ng agent

Emul s i f y i ng agent

Centerchem

CLE

I C 1

I C 1

S o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e I C 1

S o r b i t a n monostearate I C 1

S o r b i t a n monooleate I C 1

S o r b i t a n sesqui o l e a t e I C 1

Emul s i f y i ng agent I C 1

G l y c e r y l S t e a r a t e (and) I C 1

G1 y c e r o l monool e a t e I C 1

Emul s i f y i ng agent I C 1

PEG 100 S t e a r a t e

482 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

Arlacel 582

Arlacel 780

Arlacel 989

Arlacel 1689

Arlacel DOA

Arlamol E

Arlatone G

Arlamol HD

Arlamol ISML

Arlamol M812

Ar

Ar

Ar

Ar

amo

amo

aso

aso

s3

s7

ve DMI

ve 200

Arlatone G

iquid

Arlatone PQ220

Arlatone T

Arlatone 985

Arlatone 2121

Armeen DM18D

A-SM

AT Series

Atlas G-1726

Atlas G-1795

Emu

Emu

Emu

Emu

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

si fyi ng agent

si fyi ng agent

si fyi ng agent

si fyi ng agent

Emulsifying agent

PPG-15 stearyl ether

PEG 25 hydrogenated castor oil

Emul si fyi ng agent

Isosorbide monolaurate

Emufsifying agent

Emul si fyi ng agent

Emul si fyi ng agent

Emul si fyi ng agent

Isoceteth-20

PEG 25 hydrogenated castor oil

Polyquaternium-19

Sunscreen agent

Sunscreen agent

Sunscreen agent

A1 i phati c ami nes

Stearami ne oxide

Iron oxides

Beeswax der i vat i ve

SOURCE

ic1

ic1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

1c1

Akzo

Nippon O i l

1c1

IC1

Trade-Named Raw Materials 483

RAW MATERIALS

A t l a s G-2162

A t l a s G-2330

A t l a s G-3570

A t l a s G 73500

Atmul 84s

Aubygel x-125

Avocado O i l

Avocado Speci a1

Baby

Bays

Powder

l o n e F

Eentone Ge

Bentone Ge

Eentone L T

Eentone MA

#165-648

u i d M10

Baysi 1 one F1 u i d PK2O

Beauty 0/239870

Bee's M i l k

Bentone EW

Eentone Gel CAO

Bentone Gel I P M

Eentone Gel LO1

Bentone Gel M I 0

Bentone Gel SS71

vs-5 vs-5 PC

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

IC1

L i PO

Dragoco

Fragrance

S i 1 i cone

S i 1 i cone

Perfume o i l

Rheol og i ca

Rheol o g i ca

Rheol og i ca

Rheologica

H e c t o r i t e c l a y

Rheo log ica l a d d i t i v e

Rheo log ica l a d d i t i v e

Rheo log ica l a d d i t i v e

Rheo log ica l a d d i t i v e

Rheo log ica l a d d i t i v e

addi t i ve

a d d i t i v e

addi t i ve

a d d i t i v e

Mobay

Mobay

Koster

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

Rheox

484 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Bermocol l E230 Whi t t a k e r

Bermocol l E481 Whi t t a k e r

Beta Glucam 15% Coarse Kos te r

Biodynes TRF T issue r e s p i r a t o r y f a c t o r s Brooks

B i o l ac L a c t i c a c i d , 88%

B i o - s u l p h u r CLR CLR

B i o t e r g e AS-40 Sodi u m C14-C16 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e Stepan

B i rch ( w a t e r ) S p e c i a l Dragoco

B1 andol M i n e r a l o i l Wi t c o

Bouquet Eau de Mer PC 916.315 Perfume

B r i j Oleth-10 1c1

B r i j 20 Emul s i f y i ng agent 1c1

B r i j 30 Emul s i f y i ng agent 1c1

B r i j 35 E m u l s i f y i n g agent 1c1

B r i j 35SP E m u l s i f y i n g agent 1c1

B r i j 52 Ceteth-2 1c1

B r i j 56 E m u l s i f y i n g agent 1c1

B r i j 58 Emul s i f y i ng agent 1c1

B r i j 72 S t e a r e t h - 2 1c1

B r i j 76 Steareth-10 1c1

B r i j 78 S tea re th -20 1c1

B r i j 93 Emul s i f y i ng agent 1c1

B r i j 97 Emul s i f y i ng agent 1c1

B r i j 700 E m u l s i f y i n g agent I C 1

Trade-Named Raw Materials 485

RAW MATERIALS

B r i j 721

B r i j 721s

Bronopol

Busan 1504

c19-011

C19-012

C65-4429

Cab-0-Si 1 M-5

Cab-0-Si1 TS-530

CAE

Camomile Spec ia l

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Steareth-21

Emu1 s i f y i ng agent

B a c t e r i c i d e

M i c r o b i o c i de

D&C Red No. 7

D&C Red No. 6

F&D Ye l low No. 5

S i l i c a

S i l i c a

DCA e t h y l cocoyl a r g i n a t e

Capry l i c / C a p r i c T r i g l y c e r i d e

Carbopol EDT Carbomer

Carbopol ETD 2055 Ca rbome r

Carbopol 934 Carbomer 934

Carbopol 940 Carbomer 940

Carbopol 941 Carbomer 941

Carbopol 954 Carbomer 954

Carbopol 980 Carbomer 980

Carbopol 981 Carbomer 981

Carbopol 1382 Carbomer 1382

Carnat ion M i n e r a l O i 1

Castorwax Hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

SOURCE

I C 1

I C 1

I n o l ex

Buckman

Sun

Sun

Sun

Cabot

Cabot

A j i nomoto

Dragoco

Bernel

Goodri ch

Goodri ch

Goodr i ch

Goodri ch

Goodr ich

Goodri ch

Goodri ch

Goodr i ch

Goodri ch

W i t c o

CasChem

486 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICALS DESCRIPTION

Cegoso

C e l l o s

C e l l os

C e l l os

t C24

ze QP lOOMH H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u

ze QP-4400-H H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u

ze PP-15,000-H H y d r o x y e t h y l c e l l u

Cel quat H-1 00

Celquat SC-240

Cera A l b a l a t e 103

Cera B e l l i n a

Cera1 an

Ceraphyl 41

Ceraphyl 45

Ceraphyl 50

Ceraphyl 50s

Ceraphyl 60

Ceraphyl 65

Ceraphyl 368

Ceraphyl 375

Ceraphyl 424

Ceraphyl 494

Ceraphyl 847

Ceraphyl I C A

Cerasynt MN

Cerasynt PA

Cerasynt Q

ose

ose

ose

Pol y q u a t e r n i um-4

Polyquatern ium-10

Behenyl beeswaxates

Pg-3 Beeswax

C12-15 a l c o h o l s l a c t a t e

D i o c t y l mal a t e

Emul s i f i e r

Emul s i f i e r

Quatern i urn-22

Quatern i um-26

O c t y l p a l m i t a t e

I s o s t e a r y l neopentanoate

E m u l s i f i e r

Emul s i f i e r

SOURCE

Union Car

Union Car

Union Car

NatStarch

NatStarch

Kos ter

Kos ter

Ame r c ho 1

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

VanDyk

Octy ldodecy l s t e a r o y l s t e a r a t e VanDyk

E m u l s i f i e r VanDyk

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e SE VanDyk

Propylene g l y c o l s t e a r a t e VanDyk

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE VanDyk

Trade-Named Raw Materials 487

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Cerasynt 840 PEG-20 s t e a r a t e

Ceresine Wax 130/135

Ceresi ne Wax 140/150

Cetal Cetyl alcohol

Cet

Cet

Cet

01 MM

01 OE

01 s

Emol

Emo 1

Emol

ien t e s t e r s

i en t e s t e r s

ien t e s t e r s

Cetiol SN Emollient esters

Chamomile LS Safflower o i l (and) chamomile ex t r ac t

Chi a ra 0/238927 Fragrance

Chlorhydrol, 50% Aluminum chlorhydrate , 50%

Cholesterol NF

Chroma-1 i t e 81 ack Pearlescent pigment

Chroma-lite Dark Blue Pearlescent pigment

Ci t rof lex-2 P l a s t i c i z e r

C1 ea r l an Lanol i n

CMC 7MF Cell u l ose gum

Coconut Oil #76

Collagen C L R

Coll asol Col 1 agen

Color No. 3170 Pur Oxy Yellow 0 . C . Color No. 3315 Pur Oxy Umber B . C . Color No. 2511 Lo-Micron Pink B . C . Color No. 3121-D & C Red No. 21 Color No. 7055 P u r Oxy Yellow 0.C. Color No. 7153 Lo-Micron P i n k B . C .

SOURCE

Van Dyk

Koster

Koster

Ame r cho 1

Henke

Henke

Henke

Henkel

Rehei s

Rita

VanDyk

VanDyk

Morf 1 ex

Henkel

Aqua1 on

We1 ch

CLR

Croda

488 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Copherol F-1300 Tocopherol Henkel

Corona Pure New L a n o l i n

Cosmetic Tan C33-130 I r o n o x i d e Sun

Cosmowax J

Courage 0/243101

CP 1052

Cremogen A loe Vera

Cremophor A6

Cremophor A25

Cremophor EL

Cremophor HP14

Cremophor RH410

Crodacel QM

Crodac id B

Crodacol C-70

Crodacol C-95

Crodacol CS-50

Crodacol S-95

Crodacol S-95NF

Crodafos CES

Ce tea ry l a l c o h o l (and) c e t e a r - e th -20

Fragrance

Shampoo base

Propy lene g l y c o l (and) e thoxy- d i g l y c o l (and) a l o e e x t r a c t

S u r f a c t a n t

S u r f a c t a n t

S u r f a c t a n t

S u r f a c t a n t

S u r f a c t a n t

Cocodimonium hydraxypropoxy c e l l u l ose

Behenic a c i d

C e t y l a l c o h o l

C e t y l a l c o h o l

Ce tea ry l a l c o h o l

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

Ce tea ry l a l c o h o l (and) c e t e a r y l phosphate

Croda

I C 1

Haarman

BASF

BASF

BASF

BAS F

BASF

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Trade-Named Raw Materials 489

RAW MATERIALS

Crodafos N3 N e u t r a l

Crodafos N3A

Crodafos N1 OA

Crodalan LA

Crodamol CAP

Crodamol DA

Crodamol ML

Crodamol MM

Crodamol PMP

Crodamol PTC

Crodamol P T I S

Crodamol SS

Crodamol W

Crodapear l L i q u i d

Crodasi n i c LS-30

Cromoist CS

Crodesta F10

Crodesta F110

Cropept ide W

Croquat HH

Croquat L

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

DEA O le th -3 phosphate

Ole th-3 phosphate

Ole th-10 phosphate

C e t y l a c e t a t e (and) a c e t y l a t e d 1 anol i n a l c o h o l

F a t t y a c i d e s t e r

F a t t y a c i d e s t e r

F a t t y a c i d e s t e r

Myr i s t y 1 myr i s t a t e

SOURCE

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

PPG-2 m y r i s t y l e t h e r p r o p i o n a t e Croda

P e n t a e r t h y r i t y l t e t r a c a p r y l a t e / Croda c a p r a t e

P e n t a e r y t h r i t y l t e t r a i s o s t e a r a t e Croda

C e t y l e s t e r s

S t e a r y l heptanoate

Sodi um 1 a u r e t h s u l f a t e (and) hyd roxye thy l stearamide-MIPA

Sodi um 1 a u r o y l sa rcos i n a t e

C h o n d r o i t i n s u l f a t e (and) hyd ro l yzed p r o t e i n

Sugar e s t e r

Sugar e s t e r

Hydro lyzed wheat p r o t e i n (and) wheat o l i gosacchar i des

Cocodimonium hyd roxyp ropy l hyd ro l yzed ha i r k e r a t i n

Lauryldimonium hyd roxyp ropy l c o l 1 agen

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

490 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

Crosu l t a i ne C-50

C r o t e i n AD

C r o t e i n SPA

C r o t h i x

Crovo l A-70

Crovo l PK-70

C r y s t a l 0

C u t i n a CBS

C u t i n a CP

C u t i n a GMS

Cu t ina LM

C u t i n a MD

Cyclomide DC 212/S

C y c l o r y l WAT

C y c l o t e r i c BET C-30

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Cocamidopropyl h y d r o x y s u l t a i n e

Hydro lyzed animal p r o t e i n

Hydro lyzed animal p r o t e i n

PEG-1 50 p e n t a e r y t h r i t y l t e t r a s t e a r a t e

PEG-60 almond g l y c e r i d e s

PEG-45 palm ke rne l g l y c e r i d e s

Castor o i l

Cream base

Cream base

Cream base

Cream base

Cream base

Cocamide DEA

Cocami dopropy l b e t a i n e

DC-556 S i 1 i cone

DC-593 S i 1 i cone

D&C Red #7 Ca Lake (3107)

D&C Red #9 (31-3009)

Deosafe 75128 N / I Perfume

Dermacryl LT S k i n c a r e polymer

Dermacryl-79 S k i n c a r e polymer

SOURCE

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

CasChem

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Cyc lo

Cyc lo

Cyc lo

Dow Corn ing

Dow Corn ing

Thomasset

Thomasset

Haarman

Na t . S t a r c h

Na t . S ta rch

Trade-Named Raw Materials 491

RAW MATERIALS

Dermol 185

Di aformer 2-A

Diaformer 2-301

Di aformer 2-400

Di ahold A-503

Dionil OC/K

D-Limonene

Dow Corning 2-7224

Dow Corning Q2-5000

Dow Corning 190

Dow Corning 193

Dow Corning 200

DC 200 fluid; 50 vis

Dow Corning 200; 100

Dow Corning 200; 200

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Isostearyl neopentanoate

Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ methacrylates copolymer

Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ methacrylates copolymer

Methacrylol ethyl betaine/ methacrylates copolymer

AMP-Acrylates Copolymer

PEG-4 01 eami de

Dipentene

Si 1 icone

Di met h i cone cop0 1 yo 1

Dimethicone copolyol

Dimethicone copolyol

Di met h i cone

Di methicone

Di methi cone

Dimethicone

Dow Corning 344 Fluid Cyclomethicone

Dow Corning 345 Fluid Cyclomethicone

Dow Corning 556 Phenyl tri methi cone

SOURCE

Sandoz

Sandoz

Sandoz

Sandoz

Hul s

Florida

Dow Corn

Dow Corn

Dow Corn

Dow Corn

Dow Corn

Dow Corn

Dow Corn

Dow Corning

Dow Corning

Dow Corning

Dow Corning

Dow Corning 593 Dimethicone (and) trimethyl- Dow Corning si loxysi 1 icate

Dow Corning 929 Amodimethicone (and) nonoxy- Dow Corning no1 -10 (and) tal 1 ow-tri moni um chloride

Dow Corning 1401 Fluid Dow Corning

492 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATER I ALS

D o w i c i l 200

Dragoc id

Drakeol 9

Drakeol 109

Drakeol 35

Dry F l o PC

Duveen T o i l e t Soap

Dynacer i n 660

Dynasan 110

Dynasan 114

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

P r e s e r v a t i ve Dow

Dragoco

M ine ra l o i l Penreco

M i n e r a l o i 1 , naphthen ic Penreco

M ine ra l o i l Penreco

Aluminum s t a r c h o c t e n y l s u c c i n a t e Nat S ta rch

Base Duveen

01 e y l e r u c a t e Hul s

T r i Capr i n Hul s

T r i myr i s t i n Hul s

Eastman A0 38s Polymer Eastman

Eastman AQ 55s Polymer Eastman

Eastman V i tam in E TPGS (20%) Eastman

Eastman V i t a m i n E Ace ta te 6-81 Eastman

E l a s t o s o l Animal Co l l agen & E l a s t i n Croda

Eldew CL-301 D i - ( c h o l e s t e r y l , behenyl , A j i nomoto o c t y l d o d e c y l ) N -Lauroy l -L -g lu t - amic a c i d e s t e r

E l e f a c 1-205 Oc ty ldodecy l neopentanoate

E l f a c o s C26 Polymer f o r cosmet ics

E l f a c o s E200 Polymer f o r cosmet ics

E l f a c o s ST9 Polymer f o r cosmet ics

Emal ex CC-168 C e t y l oc tanoa te

Emalex GM-5 POE (5) g l y c e r y l monostearate

Berne l

Akzo

Akzo

Akzo

N i hon

N i hon

Trade-Named Raw Materials 493

RAW M A T E R I A L S

Emalex GMS-7CAE

Emal ex GMS-45RT

Emalex HC-5

Emalex S . T , G . - R

Emeressence 1160

Emerest 2000

Emerest 2314

Emerest 2316

Emerest 2350

Emerest 2388

Emerest 2400

Emerest 2407

Emerest 2452

Emersol 132

Emersol 213

Emerson-1 323

Emery I P P

Emery 622

Emery 916

Emery 1723

Esca lo l 507

Esca lo l 557

E s c a l o l 567

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

G l y c e r y l monostearate, s e l f emul s i f y i ng

G l y c e r y l monostearate, s e l f emul s i f y i ng (HLB5)

POE ( 5 ) hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

Hydrogenated o i l

Phenoxyethanol

G1 y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

E s t e r

E s t e r

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e

Propy lene g l y c o l d i p e l a rgonate

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE

P o l y g l y c e r y l d i - i s o s t e a r a t e

S t e a r i c a c i d

Coconut a c i d

G l y c e r i n pu re

O c t y l d ime thy l PABA

O c t y l methoxycinnamate

Benzophenone-3

SOURCE

Nihon Emul

Nihon Emul

Nihon Emul

Nihon Emul

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Van Dyk

Van Dyk

Van Dyk

494 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

E s t a l a n 430

E s t o l EHP 1543

E s t o l 1550

Ethomeen C-25

Ethox-ykt ted Carnauba

Ethoxyo l 24

Eumulgin 91

Eumulgin 92

Euper lan PK-771

Eusolex 232

Eusolex 6300

Eutano l G

Ewalan ODE 50

E x t r a c t 52

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Cosmetic emol 1 i e n t e s t e r

Cosmetic e s t e r

Cosmetic e s t e r

E thoxy l a t e d a1 i p h a t i c ami nes

E thoxy l a t e d o l e y l a l c o h o l

Cosmetic e m u l s i f i e r O/W

Cosmetic e m u l s i f i e r O/W

Pear l sh ine c o n c e n t r a t e

Sunscreen

Sunscreen

Octy ldodecano l

Extrapon Hamamel i s Speci a1

Ex t rapon 3-Speci a1

Fancol ALA

F inqua t CT

F i n s o l v TN

amenco Super B lue

amenco Superpear l

amenco Ve lve t -100

e x r i c i n 9

A c e t y l a t e d l a n o l i n a l c o h o l

Quatern i um-75

C12-15 a l c o h o l s benzoate

Cosmetics pigment

Cosmetics pigment

Cosmetics pigment

F a t t y a c i d e s t e r

SOURCE

Lanaetex

Unichema

Uni chema

Akzo

Koster

Lanaetex

Hen k e l

Henkel

Henkel

EM I n d u s t

EM I n d u s t

Henkel

HE Wagner

Zschi mmer

Dragoco

Dragoco

Fanning

F i ne tex

F i ne tex

Mearl

Mearl

Mearl

Caschem

Trade-Named Raw Materials 495

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Floral Spice NP49 Fragrance

F1 orasynth AB5697 Powder type

Fluilan Liquid lanolin

Fomblin HC/R

Forestal 1

Forlan L R.I.T.A. b lend

Fougere Lavender Fragrance

Fragrance DE-47

Fragrance DO-60

Fragrance-Finesse Type

Fragrance-Floral #169-120

Fragrance GG44

Fragrance GK-17

Fragrance GK-19

Fragrance GK-21

Fragrance GP-58

Fragrance H-45756

Fragrance 2991H

Fragrance #X3110

Fragrance #1-67

Fragrance #189-7124

Fragrance #163-478

SOURCE

Croda

Brooks

IC1

Rita

Fr i t zsche

Novarome

Novarome

Novarome

Novarome

Novarome

Novarome

Robert et

IFF

Roure

496 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

G-9600 1053 Shampoo base I C 1

G a f f i x VC-213 V i nylcaprolactam/PVP/Dimethyl- ISP aminoethy l me thac ry la te copolymer

Gafquat 755 Po lyqua te rn i um-1 1 I S P

Gamma Orzanol Kos ter

Ganex V-220 PVP/Eicosene copolymer I S P

Ganex WP660 A l k y l a t e d v i n y l p y r r o l i d o n e I S P copo l ymer

Geahlene 750 M i n e r a l o i l (and) hydrogenated butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer (and) hydrogenated e thy lene /p ropy lene / s t y r e n e copolymer

Gemtone Mauve Quar tz Cosmetic p e a r l powder Mearl

Germaben I 1 Cosmetic p r e s e r v a t i v e S u t t o n

Germaben 11-E Cosmetic p r e s e r v a t i v e Su t ton

Germal l I 1 D i azo1 i d i n y l u rea S u t t o n

Germal l 115 I m i dazo l i d i n y l u rea S u t t o n

Geropon SBFA-30 Rhone

Ginkgo B i 1 oba Vern i n

Givaudan #PSC 10,435/6 Fragrance G i vaudan

Glucam E-10 Ethoxy l a t e d methyl g lucos ides Amerchol

Glucam P-20 Propoxy la ted methy l g l u c o s i d e s Amerchol

G1 ucamate DOE-I 20 PEG-120 methyl g lucose d i o l e a t e Amerchol

G1 ucamate SSE-20 E t h o x y l a t e d methy l g lucos ides Amerchol

Glucamate SSG-20 A1 k y l a t e d methy l g l u c o s i d e e s t e r Amerchol

G luca te DO Methy l g l u c o s i d e e s t e r Amerc ho 1

G luca te SS Methy l g l u c o s i d e e s t e r Arne r c ho 1

Trade-Named Raw Materials 497

RAW MATERIALS

Glucopon 425 CS

Glucopon 600 CSUP

Glucopon 625 CSUP

Glucquat 100

Glydant

G lydant P lus

Glypure 70%

GMS SE

G r i 1 locam E-20

G r i 1 l o t e n LSE-65K

G r i l l o t e n LSE-87K

G r i l l o t e n PSE 141G

Hai r Complex Aquosum

Hamamel i s Speci a1

Hamp-ene Na4

Hamp-ene 220

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

DMDM hydan to i n

G l y c o l i c a c i d

G l y c e r o l Monostearate SE

Methy l g luce th -20

Sucrose cocoate

Sucrose cocoate

Sucrose s t e a r a t e

Tet rasod

Te t rasod

um EDTA

um EDTA

Herba l Fragrance SL 79-1224

H e t e s t e r HCA G l y c e r y l t r i a c e t y l hydroxy- s t ea r a t e

H e t e s t e r HCP PPG-3 hydrogenated c a s t o r o i l

H i - S i 1 T-600

Horse-ches tnu t Spec ia l

Hos tace r i n PN73

SOURCE

Amerchol

Ame r c ho 1

Arne r c ho 1

Amerchol

Lonza

Lonza

Stepan

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

CLR

Dragoco

Hampshi r e

Hampshi r e

PFW

Berne l

Berne l

PPG

Dragoco

Hoechst

498 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Hostaphat KL340N Hoec h s t

Hydrogenated Po ly i sobu tene Amoco

Hydro1 yzed S i 1 k P r o t e i n I keda

H y d r o t r i t i c u m WAA

H y d r o t r i t i c u m 2000

Hydroxy01

Hygropl ex HHG

Hys ta r CG

Hys t rene 5016

Igepon AC78

I m w i t o r 780K

I m w i t o r 900

I m w i t o r 960 F lakes

I n c r o c a s 40

I n c r o d e t TD-7C

Incromate OLL

Incromate SEL

Wheat amino a c i d s Croda

Wheat p r o t e i n h y d r o l y z a t e s Croda

Malmstrom

CLR

Hydrogenated s t a r c h h y d r o l y s a t e Lonza

F a t t y a c i d Humko

Ani on i c s u r f a c t a n t

I s o s t e a r y l d i g l y c e r y l succ ina te

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e SE

PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l

T r i dece th -7 c a r b o x y l i c a c i d

01 ivamidopropy l d imethy lamine 1 a c t a t e

Sesamidopropyl d imethy lamine 1 a c t a t e

I S P

Hul s

Hul s

Hul s

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Inc romec tan t AMEA-70 Acetamide MEA Croda

Incromectan t AMEA-100 Acetamide MEA Croda

Incromectan t LAMEA Acetamide MEA (and) l ac tamide MEA Croda

Incromide ALD A1 mondami de DEA Croda

Inc romide BAD Babassuamide DEA Croda

Trade-Named Raw Materials 499

RAW M A T E R I A L S

Inc romide CA

Inc romide CAC

Inc romide LR

Inc romide WGD

Incromine BB

Incromi ne Oxide WG

Incronam AL-30

Incronam WG-30

Incronam 30

I n c r o p o l CS-20

I n c r o p o l SC-20

I n c r o q u a t BA-85

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

Cocamide DEA

Cocamide DEA cocoy l sa rcos ine

Laurami de DEA

Wheat germamide DEA

Behenamidopropyl d imethy lamine

Wheat germami dopropy l o x i d e

Almondami dopropy l b e t a i ne

Wheat germamidopropyl b e t a i n e

Cocamidopropyl b e t a i ne

Ceteare th-20

E t h o x y l a t e d a l c o h o l

Babassuami dopropal kon i um c h l o r i d e

I n c r o q u a t Behenyl TMS Behentr imonium m e t h o s u l f a t e (and) c e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

I n c r o q u a t CR Conc. Ce tea ry l a l c o h o l (and) PEG-40

SOURCE

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda c a s t o r o i 1 (and) - s t e a r a l koni um c h l o r i d e

I n c r o q u a t 0-50 Olea1 konium c h l o r i d e Croda

I n c r o q u a t S-85 S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e Croda

Indopo l H - 1 0 0 Viscous po lybu tene Amoco

I rgasan DP300 B a c t e r i o s t a t C i ba-Gei gy

I r o n Oxide Brown 7058 Warner-3enk

I r o n Oxide Ye l l ow 7055 Warner-Jenk

I s o p a r H I s o p a r a f f i n s o l v e n t Exxon

500 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Isopropylan 50 Isopropyl ester of lanolin Arne r cho 1

Ivarlan 3230 Lanolin oil Brooks

Ivy Special Dragoco

3 - 13 -AT Talc

Jergens Type R-30318 Fragrance

Kaopolite SF Polishing powder

Kaopolite TLC Polishing powder

Kaopolite 1147 Polishing powder

Karion F

Kathon CG Methyichlorisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone

Keltrol Xanthan gun1

Keltrol F Xanthan gun1

Keltrol RD Xan than gum

Keltrol T Xanthan gum

Keltrol TF Xanthan gum

Kelzan Xanthan gum

Kelzan AR Xanthan gum

Kessco Ethylene Glycol Distearate

Kessco Glyceryl Monostearate

Kessco-653 Fatty ester

Kester Wax K-48 Spermaceti

Kester Wax 62

Kaopolite

Kaopoli te

Kaop o 1 i te

E. Merck

R o hm &

Kelco

Kelco

Kelco

Ke 1 co

Ke 1 co

Kelco

Kelco

Stepan

Stepan

Stepan

Koster

Koster

Trade-Named Raw Materials 501

RAW MATERIALS

Kester Wax 100

Kester Wax 8 5

K l u c e l G F

K l u c e l MF

K o r t h i x H

K y t a m e r KC

Lamepon S

L a n e t o 50

L a n e t o 100

L a n e t t e 0

L a n e t t e N

L a n e t t e 1 6

L a n o g e n e

L a n o l i n USP

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e

H y d r o x y p r o p y l c e l l u l o s e

T h i c k e n i n g a g e n t

P o l y q u a t e r n i urn-29

P r o t e i n s u r f a c t a n t

PEG-75 1 a n a 1 i n

PEG-75 1 a n o l i n

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

C r e a m b a s e o / w

C e t y l a l c o h o l

L a n o l i n a l c o h o l & m i n e r a l o i 1

L a n o l i n - X - t r a D e o d o r i z e d

L a n t h a n o l L A L F o a m i n g a g e n t

L a n t r o l L i q u i d l a n o l i n

L e x a i n e C Cocoami d o p r o p y l b e t a i n e

Lexami n e S - 1 3 Stearami d o p r o p y l d i m e t h y l ami n e

L e x a t e I L C o n c e n t r a t e / b l e n d

SOURCE

Koster

Koster

A q u a l o n

A q u a l o n

K a o p o l i t e

A m e r c h o 1

H e n k e l

R i t a

R i t a

H e n k e l

H e n k e l

Hen k e 1

A m e r c h o l

R i t a

R i t a

S t e p a n

H e n k e l

I n o l e x

I n o l e x

I n o l e x

L e x a t e PX P e t r o l a t u m ( a n d ) l a n o l i n a l c o h o l I n o l e x

L e x e i n QX-3000 Q u a t e r n i u m - 7 6 h y d r o l y z e d c o l l a g e n I n o l e x

L e x e m u l AR G l y c e r y l s t ea ra t e ( a n d ) s t e a r - I n o l e x a m i d o e t h y l d i e t h y l a m i n e

502 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

Lexemul CS-20

Lexemul EGMS

Lexemul GDL

Lexemul P

Lexemul T

Lexemul 55G

Lexemul 515

Lexemul 561

Lexgard 8

Lexgard Bronopol

Lexgard M

Lexgard P

Lexol BS

Lexol EHS

Lexol GT-865

Lexol PG 8/10

Lexol PG-865

Lexol 3975

Lexorez 100

Lexquat AMG-BE0

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Cetearyl alcohol (and) cet- eareth-20

G1 ycol stearate

Glyceryl dilaurate

Emu1 si f i er

Glyceryl stearate SE

Glyceryl stearate

G1 yceryl stearate

Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100

Butyl paraben

2-bromo-2-nitropropane-l,3-diol

Methyl paraben

Propyl paraben

Isobutyl stearate

Octyl stearate

Capryl ic/capric triglyceride

Emol 1 i ent

Propylene glycol dicaprylate/

stearate

dicaprate

Isopropyl palmitate (and) iso- propyl myri state (and) i so- propyl stearate

Glycerine/diethylene glycol/

Behenami dopropyl PG di moni um

adi pate crosspolymer

chl ori de

SOURCE

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inol ex

Inolex

Inol ex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Inolex

Trade-Named Raw Materials 503

RAW MATERIALS

Lexquat AMG- IS

Lime Blossom Spec ia l

L i p a c i d e PCO

L i p o f r u i t Cucumber

L ipona te SS

L i p o v o l A

L i p o v o l ALM

L i p o v o l P

L i popeg 100-S

L i p o x o l 600 MED

L i quapar

L i q u i d Coconut Soap,

Locron L

Lo M ic ron B lack

Lo M ic ron P ink

Lo Mic ron Ye l l ow

Lonzest 143/S

Luv i s k o l VA64

Luv i s k o l 1 VA73W

L u v i t o l EHO

L y t r o n 295

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

I sos tea rami dopropy l -PG-di moni urn I n o l ex c h l o r i d e

P a l m i t o y l hyd ro l yzed animal p r o t e i n

S t e a r y l s t e a r a t e

N a t u r a l vege tab le o i 1

Almond o i l

N a t u r a l vege tab le o i 1

Po lyoxyethy lene f a t t y a c i d e s t e r

PEG- 1 2

P r e s e r v a t i v e

40%

I r o n ox ides (and) t a l c

I r o n ox ides (and) t a l c

I r o n ox ides (and) t a l c

M y r i s t y l p r o p i o n a t e

P o l y v i n y l p y r r o l i d o n e

PVP/VA copolymer

S y n t h e t i c o i l

Opaci f i e r

Dragoco

L i DO

L i po

L i PO

L i PO

L i PO

L i PO

L i DO

Hul s

S u t t o n

Laure l

Henkel

Whi t t a k e r

Whi t t a k e r

Whi t t a k e r

Lonza

BASF

BASF

BAS F

Morton

504 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Mac ka

Mac ka

RAW MATERIALS

Mackadet BSC

Mackadet CBC

Mackadet LCB

Mackadet SBC-8

Mackadet WGS

Mackadet 40K

Mackalene NLC

Mackal ene 11 6

Mackalene 316

Mackal ene 326

ene 426

ene 716

Mackam CET

Mac kam WGB

Mackam 2C

Mackam 35

Mackam 35HP

Mackami de AME-100

Mackamide C

Mackami de CMA

Mackamide CS

Mackami de LLM

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Baby shampoo c o n c e n t r a t e

C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e

C o n d i t i o n e r c o n c e n t r a t e

M i I d b l e n d

L a c t a t e s

Cocami dop ropy l d ime thy l ami ne l a c t a t e

Stearami dopropyl d imethy lami ne 1 a c t a t e

Stearamidopropyl morphol ine l a c t a t e

I sos tea ramidopropy l morpho l i ne 1 a c t a t e

Wheat germami dop ropy l d ime thy l - ami ne 1 a c t a t e

C e t y l b e t a i ne

Wheat germamidopropyl b e t a i ne

Cocoamphodiacetate

Cocoami dop ropy l b e t a

Cocoami dop ropy l b e t a

Acetamide MEA

Cocamide DEA

Cocamide MEA

Cocamide DEA

Laurami de DEA

ne

ne

SOURCE

McI n t y r e

M c I n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

McI n t y r e

M c I n t y r e

McI n t y r e

McI n t y r e

McI n t y r e

McI n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

McI n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

McI n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

Trade-Named Raw Materials 505

RAW MATERIALS

Mackanate OM

Mackanate OP

Mackamide PK

Mackami de PKM

Mackamide S

Mackami ne CAO

Mackami ne WGO

Mackanate CP

Mackanate DC-30

Mackanate EL

Mackanate LA

Mackanate LO-Speci a1

Mackanat e WGD

Mackerni urn SDC-25

Mackerni um SDC-85

Mackerni um 007

Mackester EGDS

Mackester SP

Mackine 301

Mackol 70NS

Mackol 16

Mackol 1618

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Disodium oleamido MEA s u l f o - M c I n t y r e s u c c i n a t e

Disodium oleamido M I P A Mc I n t y r e s u l f o s u c c i na te

Palmkernalamide DEA Mc I n t y r e

Palmkernalamide MEA McI n t y r e

Soyamide DEA Mc I n t y r e

Cocami dopropy l ami ne o x i d e McI n t y r e

Wheat germamidopropylamine o x i d e M c I n t y r e

Disodium cocamido M I P A s u l f o - M c I n t y r e s u c c i n a t e

Disodium d imeth icone c o p o l y o l M c I n t y r e s u l f o s u c c i na te

D i sod i um 1 a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e M c I n t y r e

D i ammoni um 1 a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e M c I n t y r e

D i sod i um l a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e M c I n t y r e

D i sod i um wheatgermami do PEG-2 M c I n t y r e s u l f o s u c c i na te

S t e a r a l koniurn c h l o r i d e

S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e

McI n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

Po lyqua te rn i um 7 Mc I n t y r e

G1 yco l d i s t e a r a t e McI n t y r e

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e m o d i f i e d Mc I n t y r e

Stearami dopropy l D imethy l ami ne M c I n t y r e

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e Mc I n t y r e

C e t y l a l c o h o l McI n t y r e

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l Mc I n t y r e

506 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

Mackpearl L V

Mackpro NLP

Mackpro NSP

Macks ta t DM

Macol CPS

Macrospher i ca l 95

Magnabri t e

Magnabr i te S

Maprof i x TLS-500

Marcol 70

Marcol 130

Mar i ne-Dew

Marlamide DF1218

Marlamid M1218

Marlamid PG20

M a r l a z i n KC 30/50

Mar

Mar

Mar

Mar

i n a t CM 105

i n a t DFK 30

i n a t DFN 30

i n a t SL 3/40

Mar l i n a t 242/28

Mar l i n a t 242/70

Mar lon PS65

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Pear l agent

Na tu ra l l i p i d p r o t e i n

01 e y l / p a l m i t y l / p a l m i t o 1 amido- p r o p y l / s i l k hyd roxyp ropy l dimoni um c h l o r i d e

DMDM hydan to in

Po lyoxyethy lene f a t t y e t h e r

Aluminum c h l o r o h y d r a t e

S tab i 1 i z i ng, suspending agent

Magnesi u m a1 umi num s i 1 i c a t e

T r ie thano lamine l a u r y l s u l f a t e

M i n e r a l o i l

M ine ra l o i l

P a r t i a1 1 y deace ty l a ted c h i t i n

Cocamide DEA

Cocamide DEA

Cocamide MEA g l y c o l d i t a l l o w a t e

Cocot r i moni um c h l o r i de

Sodium l a u r e t h - 1 1 c a r b o x y l a t e

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Disodium l a u r e t h s u l f o s u c c i n a t e

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Sodi um C13-C17 a1 kane s u l f o n a t e

SOURCE

Mc I n t y r e

McI n t y r e

McI n t y r e

Mc I n t y r e

PPG

Rehei s

Am C o l l o i d

Wh i tt a ke r

Onyx

Exxon

Exxon

A j i nomoto

Hu ls

Hul s

Hul s

Huls

Hul s

Hul s

Hul s

Hul s

Hul s

Huls

Hu ls

Trade-Named Raw Materials 507

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

Marlophor MOB-acid Laure th-3 phosphate

Marloohor T lONa-sa l t Sodium d i s t e a r e t h - 1 0 phosphate

Mar 1 owet LMA2

Marlowet R l I / K

Marlowet R 4 0 / K

Marlowet TA6

Marlowet TA25

Mas i l SF-V F l u i d

M a s i l 280

Mas i l 656

Maypon 4C

Mazox CAPA

Mearl i n-AC

Merkur 1546

Merquat 100

Merquat 550

Methocel E4M

Methocel F4M

Methocel 40-

Mic ro -d ry

M i croencapsu

00

Laure th-2

P E G - I 1 c a s t o r o i l

PEG-40 c a s t o r o i l

Ceteare th-6

Ceteareth-25

Cyclomethicone

Dimethicone c o p o l y o l

S i 1 i cone

Potass i urn cocoy l -hydro1 yzed c o l 1 agen

Cocarni dopropy l ami ne ox ide

Powdered p e a r l p igment

Vase1 i ne t y p e

Po lyqua te rn i urn-6

Pol yqua te rn i urn-7

Hydroxypropyl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

Hydroxypropyl m e t h y l c e l l u l o s e

Hydroxypropyl methy l c e l l u l ose

A 1 umi num c h l o rohyd ra te powder

a ted V i tam in E HC487

M ic ron ized T i02 LA-20 T i t a n i u m d i o x i d e

M i g l y o l Gel B Capry l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

SOURCE

Hul s

Hul s

Hul s

Hul s

Hu ls

Hul s

Hul s

PPG

PPG

PPG

I n o l e x

PPG

Mearl

Cal gon

Cal gon

Dow

Dow

Dovi

Rehei s

Hul s (and) s t e a r a l konium (and) p ropy lene carbonate h e c t o r i t e

508 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATER I ALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Miglyol 812 Capryl i c/capri c triglyceride

Miglyol 829 Capryl ic/capric/diglyceryl succinate

Miglyol 840 Propylene glycol dicaprylate

Mineral Colloid BP Montmorillonite

Mineral Oil #7

Mineral Oil #9

Miranol C2M Conc. NP Cocoamphocarboxyglycinate

Mi ranol Ester PO-LM4 Polypentaerythri tyl tetra- laurate

Miranol MHT Lauroamphoglycinate (and) t ri decet h sul fate

Mi ranol 2MHT Modified Imidazoline amphoteric

Mi rasheen 202

Mi ratai ne BET C-30 Cocamidopropyl betaine

Mi ratai ne BET 0-30 Oleami dopropyl betai ne

Mirataine CB Surface active agent

Modul an Acetylated lanol in

Monafax 160 Phosphate ester

Monafax 785 Phosphate ester

SOURCE

Huls

Hul s

Huls

ECC

Penreco

Penreco

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Arne r c ho 1

Mona

Mona

Monamate LNT-40 Diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate Mona

Monamid CMA Cocamide MEA Mona

Monami d 1 SOADD Cocamide DEA Mona

Monamid 705 Cocamide DEA Mona

Monarnid 716 Laurami de DEA Mona

Monamid 1089 A1 kanol ami de Mona

Trade-Named Raw Materials 509

RAW MATERIALS

Monami ne 1255

Monamulse DL-1273

Monaquat TG

Monaterge 1164

Mona te r i c CAB

Mona te r i c CLV

Mona te r i c COAB

Mowiol 10-98

M u l s i f a n CPA

M u l s i f a n RT 2 0 3 / 8 0

M u l s i f a n RT275

Mu1 t i wax W-835

Myacide SP

M y r i t o l PG

M y r j 52

M y r j 52s

Myvatex 60

Myvatex Tex tu re L i t e

Myverol 18-06

N a t r o s o l 250 HHR

N a t r o s o l 250 HR

Naturechem GMHS

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

A1 kanol ami de Mona

Mona

D ihyd roxye thy l d i h y d r o x y p r o p y l Mona stearammonium c h l o r i d e

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e (and) Mona d isod ium l a u r y l s u l f o s u c c i n a t e

Cocami dopropy l b e t a i ne

P o l y v i n y l a l c o h o l r e s i n

M i c r o c r y s t a l l i n e wax

2 ,4 -d i ch lo robenzy l a l c o h o l

Propy lene g l y c o l d i c a p r y l a t e

Po lyoxe thy lene s t e a r a t e

PEG-50 s t e a r a t e

Emul s i f i e r

Emul s i f i e r

Hydrogenated soy g l y c e r i d e

Hydroxyethy l c e l l u lose

Hydroxyethy l c e l l u l o s e

Castor o i l d e r i v a t i v e

Mona

Mona

Mona

Hoechst

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

W i t c o

I n o l e x

IC1

I C 1

Eastman

Aqual on

Aqual o n

Caschem

510 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

N a t u r e H a r v e s t 165-050 F r a g r a n c e

Neobee M-5 C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

Neo H e l i o p a n , AV O c t y l niethoxy c innania te

Neo H e l i o p a n , BB Benzophenone-3

Neo H e l i o p a n , Type El000

Neo H e l i o p a n , Hydro P h e n y l b e n z i m i d a z o l e s u l f o n i c a c i d

Neo H e l i o p a n , MA Menthyl a n t h r a n i l a t e

Neo H e l i o p a n , MBC

Neo H e l i o p a n , O S

Neo H e l i o p a n , 303 O c t o c r y l i n e

Nikkol L e c i n o l S-10-M

Nikkol MYS-55 PEG-55 s t e a r a t e

Nikkol WCB

N i m l e s t e r o l D

Ninol AA-62 E x t r a Foam s t a b i l i z e r

Ninol 49-CE Cocainide D E A

Nipas t a t P a r a b e n s

Novarome DE-47 F r a g r a n c e

Novarome DE5 1 Perfume

Novarome F r a g r a n c e CD-69

N o v i l l e 1184504 F r a g r a n c e

SOURCE

S t r p a n

Ha a r ilia n

Haarman

Haarman

Ha a rnian

Ha a r ilia n

Haarman

Ha a r ilia n

Ha a riii an

Nikkol

Nikko

Nikko

Malnis t roni

S t e p a n

S t e p a n

Nipa

Nova rome

Nova r oine

Novaronie

N o v i l l e

Trade-Named Raw Materials 511

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Oct ip i rox Piroctone alamine

Orgasol 2002D Natural Extra Cos Nylon-12

Oxaban A Preservative

Oxetal VD20

Oxynex K Liquid Antioxidant

Oxynex 2004 Antioxidant

Oxypon 288

Oxypon 328

Oxypon 2145

Oyster Nut Oil

Ozokerite Waxes

Ozokerite Waxes

Ozokerite Waxes

Padimate 0

Panalane

Pan theno 1

Paragon

Parcel MCX

Paricin 9

Parsol HS

Parsol MCX

Parsol 1789

Parsol 5000

Octyl dimethyl PABA

Hydrogenated polyisobutene

D1-Panthenol Cosmetic Grade

DMDM hydantoin (and) methyl paraben

Fatty acid ester

UV-B sunscreen

Octyl methoxycinnamate

UV-A sunscreen

UV-B sunscreen

SOURCE

Hoechst

Atochem

Angus

Z s chi mine r

Z s ch imine r

Z s ch imme r

Zschimmer

Z s ch imme r

Zs chimmer

Koster

Int Wax

Koster

Ross

Amoco

Roche

McIntyre

Givaudan

CasChem

Givaudan

Givaudan

Givaudan

Givaudan

512 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATER I ALS

P a t i o n i c ISL

P a t i o n i c ISL/85

P a t i o n i c SSL

P a t l a c I L

P a t l a c L A (44%)

PC 9043

PC 9044

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Sodi urn i s o s t e a r y l 1 a c t y l a t e

Sodium i s o s t e a r y l l a c t y l a t e @ 8 5 %

Sodium s t e a r o y l l a c t y l a t e

I s o s t e a r y l l a c t a t e

L a c t i c a c i d

S i 1 i cone emu1 s i on

S i 1 i cone emu1 si on

PC 9045 S i 1 i c o n e emu

PC 9046 S i 1 i c o n e emu

PC 9047 S i 1 i cone emu

PC 9048 S i 1 i c o n e emu

PCV 1454 Fragrance

PEG-120 Methy l Glucose D i q l e a t e

s i on

s i on

s i on

s i on

Pemulen TR-I Po l ymer i c emul s i f i e r

Pemulen TR-2 Po lymer i c emul s i f i e r

Permul g i n 3220 Custom blended wax

Penreco M i n e r a l O i l #9

Pepte i n 2000x1 Hydro l yzed c o l l a g e n

P e r f e c t a USP Pe t ro la tum

Perfume D i n a l aya 129,051

Perfume #44575

P e r l g l a n z m i t t e l GM 4055

Per1 g l anzmi t t e l GM 41 75

Permethyl 104A A1 i p h a t i c hydrocarbon

SOURCE

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

R i t a

Goodri c h

Goodr ich

Kos te r

Penreco

Hormel

W i t c o

F r i t s c h e

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

Pe rme t h y 1

Trade-Named Raw Materials 513

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

P e r t Type #189-724 Fragrance

Pe t ro la tum A lba

Per1 g l anzmi t t e l GM4175

Phenoni p

P h o s f e t a l 201 K

Phosphol i p i d EFA B iomimet i c p h o s p h o l i p i d

Phosphol i p i d PTC B i omi me t i c phosphol i p i d

P h o s p h o l i p i d SV B i omi met i c phosphol i p i d

Phospho te r i c PTC

Phospho te r i c QL-38 T r i s o d i u m lauroampho PG a c e t a t e phosphate c h l o r i d e

Pigment p a s t e w h i t e : N r . 93975 Pigment p a s t e y e l l o w : N r . 75577 Pigment p a s t e r e d : N r . 68775 Pigment p a s t e b l a c k : N r . 78375

P l u r o n i c F-127 Po lyoxya l ky lene g l y c o l b l o c k polymer

PNC 400 Sodi urn carbomer

Pol awax E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF

Polawax A-31 E m u l s i f y i n g wax NF

P o l y a l d o 10-1-5 P o l y g l y c e r y l - I O s t e a r a t e

Po l y a l do 10-6-0 P o l y g l y c e r y l - 1 0 hexao lea te

Polymer J R 400

Po lyox WSR Water s o l u b

Polyquta-400 Po lyqua te rn

Po lyqu ta 3000 Po lyqua te rn

e r e s i n

um-IO

urn-10

SOURCE

W i t c o

Zschi mmer

Ni pa

Zschi mmer

Mona

Mona

Mona

Mona

Mona

BASF

3v

Croda

Croda

Lonza

Lonza

Union Carb

Union Carb

R i t a

R i t a

514 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

P o l y s o r b a t e 60

Pol y s y n l ane

P r i s o r i n e 3505

P r i s o r i n e 3515

P r i s o r i ne 9083

P r o c e t y l AWS

Prodew 100

Promoi s W-32

Promoi s WK

Promoi s WK-HQ

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Po lyoxye thy lene (20) s o r b i t a n monostearate

Hydrogenated p o l y i s o b u t e n e

G1 y c e r i ne

G1 yce r i ne

G1 yce r i ne

PPG-5 C e t e t h 20

S o r b i t o l & Sodium L a c t a t e & P r o l i n e & Sodium PCA & Hydro lyzed Co l lagen

Hydro lyzed c o l l a g e n

Hydro lyzed k e r a t i n

Hydroxypropy l t r i moni um hydro1 yzed k e r a t i n

SOURCE

I C 1

Po lyes the r

Uni chema

Unichema

Uni chema

Croda

A j i nomoto

R i t a

R

R

Promulgen D C e t e a r y l Alcohol(and)Ceteareth-20

t a

t a

Ame r c ho 1

Promyri s t y l PM3 PPG-3 myr i s t y l e t h e r

Prona lan A n t i c e l l u l i t e

P r o p e l l a n t A-46 Hydrocarbon p r o p e l l a n t

P r o p o l i s Wax

Pro tope t 1s P e t r o l a t u m

Pro tope t 2A Pe t ro la tum

Pro tox T-25 E thoxy l a t e d ami ne

Purasa l S/SP 60% Sodi u m l a c t a t e

Pur . Navy B lue #7110

Pur Oxy Ye l l ow BC & Pur Oxy B lack BC Pigment

Croda

Cent e r c hem

Kos te r

W i t c o

W i t c o

Protomeen

Purac Amer

Whi t t a k e r

Trade-Named Raw Materials 515

RAW MATER I ALS

Pur ton CFD

Pur ton SFD

PVP-K-30 PV P

P y r o t e r CPI-40

P y r o t e r GPI-25

Raluben TL

Resyn 26-1 31 4

Resyn 28-291 3

Resyn 28-2930

Rewomi d S-280

Rezal 36G

Rezal 36GP

Rheolate 5000

Rhodacal A-246/L

Rhodapex MA-360

Rhodapon L-22

Rhodapon LSB

Rhodapon LT-6

Rhodapon SB 8208/S

Rhodapon 21 LS

Rhodi g e l

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

ISP

A j i nomoto

A j i nomoto

H a i r spray polymer

H a i r spray polymer

H a i r spray polymer

A1 Z r t e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x , g l y

A 1 Z r t e t r a c h l o r o h y d r e x , g l y Super u l t r a f i n e ,

Acry la te /Va copolymer

E ther s u l f a t e

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

A1 k y l s u l f a t e

Xanthan gum

Rhodorsi 1 O i 1s 70041 VO. 65

Rhodors i l 700 45V2 Cyclomethicone

Raschi g

Nat S t a r c h

Nat S t a r c h

Nat S tarch

Rewo

Rehei s

Rehei s

Rehei s

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

V a n d e r b i l t

Rhone

Rhone

516 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

R i c e Bran O i l F i l t e r e d Kos te r

R i t a b a t e 20

R i ta-BTAC

R i t a CA

R i t a c e t - 20

R i t a - C e t e a r y l 70 /30

R i t a c e t i

R i t a c e t y l

R i t a c h o l

R i t a c h o l I 0 0 0

R i t a c h o l 2000

R i t a c h o l 5000

R i ta-CTAC

R i taderm

R i t a EGDS

R i t a EGMS

R i t a GC

R i t a GMS

R i t a h y d r o x

R i t a l an

R i t a l a n AWS

R i t a l a n C

R i t a l a s t i n EL30

P o l y s o r b a t e 20

Behentr i moni um c h l o r i de

C e t y l a l c o h o l

Ceteareth-20

C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l

C e t y l e s t e r s

A c e t y l a t e d 1 anol i n

M i n e r a l o i l and l a n o l i n

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

a l c o h o l R i t a

R i t a C e t e a r y l a l c o h o l (and) p o l y - s o r b a t e 60 (and) PEG-150 s t e a r a t e (and) s tea re th -20

R . I .T .A . b l e n d

R . I . T . A . b l e n d

Cetr imonium c h l o r i d e

P e t r o l a t u m (and) sodium PCA (and)

G l y c o l d i s t e a r a t e

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e

Guanid ine ca rbona te

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

Hydroxy la ted 1 anol i n

a n o l i n (and p o l y s o r b a t e

L a n o l i n o i

PPG-12-PEG

R . I . T . A . b

Hydro1 yzed

65 l a n o

end

e l a s t i n

i n o i l

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a 85

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

Trade-Named Raw Materials 51 7

RAW MATERIALS

R i t a l o e 4OX

R i t a l o e 200M

R i tam ide C

R i tapan D

R i tapan DL

R i tapeg 1500s

R i taphenone 3

R i t a p r o 165

R i t a p r o 200

R i t a SA

R i ta-SBC

R i ta-STAC

R i t a s y n t IP

R i tavena-5

R i tawax

Ritawax ALA

R i t o l e t h 5

R i t o l e t h - 1 0

R i t o x 35

Robane

Rosemary Speci a1

Rosswaxes

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

A loe v e r a g e l

A l o e v e r a g e l

Cocamide DEA

d-Panthenol

d l -Pan theno l

PEG-150 d i s t e a r a t e

Benzophenone-3

R , I .T.A. b l e n d

R . I . T . A . b l e n d

S t e a r y l a l c o h o l

S t e a r a l konium c h l o r i d e

S t e a r t r i moni um c h l o r i d e

G l y c o l s t e a r a t e and o t h e r s

Hydro l yzed o a t f l o u r

Lanol i n a l c o h o l

R . I . T . A . b l e n d

O le th -5

01 eth-10

Laureth-23

Squal ane

Waxes

SOURCE

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

R i t a

Robeco

Dragoco

Ross

518 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Salon #169-122 Fragrance

Sandopan DTC Acid Trideceth-7-carboxylic acid

Sandobet SC Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultai ne

Sandoxylate SX-424 PPG-2-isodeceth-12

Setacin 103 Special

SF 18 (350) silicone Dimethicone

Shea Butter

Shebu Shea butter

Shebu WS PEG-50 shea butter

Shellsol T Petroleum di sti 1 1 ates

Shellsol 71 Petroleum distillates

Sicomet Black 80 C.I. 77499

Sicomet Brown 70 C.I. 77491

Sicomet Brown 75 C.I. 77491

Sicomet Patentblau BOE 131 Patent Blue

Si 1 i cone 200/100

Silicone Fluid DC-200 (200 cps)

Silicone Fluid 225

Silicone Fluid 344 and 345 (Volatile)

Si 1 ki ence Type #169-120 Fragrance

Si 1 i cony1 Beeswax

Siltex -50 +lo0 Mesh Fused silica

Si mchi n Ref i ned Jojoba oil

Sipon ES Sodium lauryl ether sulfate

SOURCE

Sandoz

Sandoz

Sandoz

Zschi mm-

Dow Corn

Koster

Rita

Rita

Shel

Shel

BAS F

BASF

BASF

BASF

Dow Corn

Dow Corn

Dow Corn

Dow Corn

Koster

Kaopol

Rita

Rhone

Trade-Named Raw Materials 519

S o f t

S o f t

S o f t

RAW MATERIALS

Sipon ES-2

Sipon ESY

S i ponate DD8-40

Sipon LCP

SL 79-1224

S o f t i g e n 701

S o f t i g e n 767

san 100

san 154

san 378

S o f t i s a n 601

S o f t i s a n 645 & 649

So la r Chem 0

S o l t r o l 100

So lu lan PB5

S o l u l a n 16

So lu lan 25

S o l u l a n 98

S o l u v i t CLR

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

A1 k y l a r y l s u l f o n a t e

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Herbal f rag rance

G l y c e r y l r i c i n o l e a t e

PEG-6 c a p r y l i c / c a p r i c g l y- c e r i des

Hydrogenated coco -g l yce r ides

Hydrogenated palm o i l

Capryl i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c t r i g l y c e r i d e

G l y c e r y l cocoate (and) hydro- genated cocoanut o i l (and) ce teare th-25

B i s - d i g l y c e r y l c a p r y l a t e / caprate/isostearate/hydroxy- s t e a r a t e a d i p a t e

~ 9 - 1 1 i s o p a r a f f i n

SOURCE

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

Rhone

PFW

Hul s

Hul s

Huls

Hu ls

Hul s

Huls

Hul s

Caschem

Phi 11 i p s

A1 koxy l a ted 1 anol i n d e r i v a t i v e Amerchol

Laneth-16 & c e t e t h 16 & Arne r c ho 1 o l e t h - 1 6 & s tea re th -16

Laneth-25 & ce te th -25 & Amer c ho 1 o l e t h - 2 5 & s t e a r e t h - 2 5

Po lyso rba te 80, a c e t y l a t e d Amerchol 1 anol i n a1 coho1 , c e t y l a c e t a t e

CLR

520 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

Sorbo

Span 60

Span 65

Span 80

Spermwax

Sp icy Lime #4851-AN

S&P Whi te NF 422P

S&P #1 Ye l low 73

S&P 18

S&P 75

Span 40

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

Sorb i t o 1 s o l u t i on, USP

E m u l s i f y i n g agent

E m u l s i f y i n g agent

Emu1 s i f y i ng agent

S y n t h e t i c spermacet i

Fragrance

Beeswax

Carnauba wax

M i c r o c r y s t a l 1 i ne wax

Candel i 11 a wax

S o r b i t a n monopalmi t a t e

Standapo

Standapo

Standapo

ES-2 Sodi um

ES-3 Sodi urn

WAQ-LC Sodi urn

Squeeky Clean #165-047 Fragrance

Standapol EA-2 Ammonium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Standapol E S - I Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

au re th -2 s u l f a t e

aure th-3 s u l f a t e

a u r y l s u l f a t e

Stepanol AM Ammonium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

S t i n g i n g N e t t l e Spec ia l

Super Corona Luxury USP l a n o l i n

Supersat AWS-4 PEG-20 hydrogenated l a n o l i n

Syncrowax ERCL C18-36 a c i d g l y c o l e s t e r

Syncrowax HGLC C1B-36 a c i d t r i g l y c e r i d e

S i l i c o n O i l AK500

SOURCE

I C 1

IC1

IC1

I C 1

Robeco

I F F

I C 1

Henkel

Hen k e l

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Stepan

Dragoco

Croda

R i t a

Croda

Croda

sws

Trade-Named Raw Materials 521

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N SOURCE

Sipon ES2 Sodium l a u r e t h s u l f a t e Rhone

Sedermasome Soy l e c i t h i n

S M D I Pol yo1 prep01 ymer -2 PPG- 12

S o f t i s a n 378

Sol u lan-75

Spec t rapear l BLG

S p e c t r a v e i l TG

Spect rave i 1 9O/MOTG

SS4267

Standamid KO

Standamide T

Standapol ES-l&ES-2

Standapol ES-3

Standapo T

Standapo WAQ&WAQ-SP

Sul f e t a l KT400

S u l f e t a l TC50

Sunarome OMC

Super Amide L-9

Super H a r t o l an

C a p r y l i c / c a p r i c / s t e a r i c Hul s t r i g l y c e r i d e

PEG 7 5 l a n o l i n Arne r c ho 1

Pear l escent pigment I S P

U l t r a - f i n e ZnO T i o x i de

U l t r a - f i n e Zn0(40% s o l i d s D i s p ) T i o x i d e

D i meth i cone and t r i methyl - s i l o x y s i l i c a t e

Cocamide DEA

Tea ls

Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e

Sodi um l a u r e t h s u l f a t e 2890

TEA- laury l s u l f a t e

Sodium l a u r y l s u l f a t e

Coconut f a t t y a c i d d i e t h a n o l ami de

L a n o l i n a l c o h o l

GE S i l i c o n e

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Henkel

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

Fe l t o n

Onyx

Croda

Super Re f ined Babassu O i l

Super Re f ined Wheat Germ O i l

Super S t e r o l E s t e r C10-30 C h o l e s t e r o l / L a n e s t e r o l E s t e r s

522 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

SOURCE RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Super Whi te Pe t ro la tum USP

S u t t o c i d e A Sodi um hydroxymethyl g l y c i na te Su t ton

Syncrowax A w l - C S y n t h e t i c wax Croda

Syncrowax HGL-C C18-36 a c i d t r i g l ycer i de Croda

S y n t h e t i c Beeswax JH-1508 Ross

TABS-D

Tagat S

Takasago

T a l c Supra A

Tamol N

Tapioca F1 ou r

Teg in M

Teg in T4753

Tegobetai ne L-7

Teg. "P"

Tenox & Tenox 4

Tenox BHA

Tensagex EOC-670

Terg i t o 1 NP-10

T e r r y AGO02

T i caxan

Timbuktu 0/186901

T i m i r o n MP-10

G l y c e r y l s t e a r a t e

Organi c emu1 s i f i e r

Cocami dopropy l b e t a i ne

A n t i o x i d a n t

BHA

S u r f a c t a n t

A loe ve ra ge l

Xanthan gum

Fragrance

I n t e r f e r e n c e pigment

Union Camp

Goldschmidt Sol ub i 1 i zer

Fragrance

Premium t a l c , coarse ground Cyprus

D ispe rsan t Rohm&Haas

Nat S ta rch

Go1 dschmi d t

Go1 dschmi d t

Goldschmidt

Go1 dschmi d t

Eastman

Eastman

I C 1

Union Carb

T e r r y

T i c Gums

Rona Pear l

Trade-Named Raw Materials 523

RAW MATERIALS CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION

Tiiniron Pearl Sheen MP-30 I n t e r f e r e n c e Pigment

Timiron S u p e r Red I n t e r f e r e n c e Pigment

T i o v e i i AQ/FIN/MOTG U l t r a - f i n e t i t a n i u m d i o x i d e

TL-10 PEG-20 s o r b i t a n m o n o l a u r a t e

Tocophero l

Toiiiah A 0 - 7 2 8 S p e c i a l

T r i t i s o l S o l u b l e wheat p r o t e i n

T r i v e n t NP-13 & SS-20 T r i d e c y l n e o p e n t a n o a t e

T r y c o l 5963 Ester

Tween 20 P o l y s o r b a t e 20

Tween 40 P o l y s o r b a t e 4 0

Tween 6 0 P o l y s o r b a t e 60

Tween 6 1 P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n iiionos t e a r a t e

Tween 80 P o l y s o r b a t e 8 0

Tween 8 1 P o l y o x y e t h y l e n e s o r b i t a n inonoolea t e

Tween 85 E m u l s i f y i n g a g e n t

U n i p e r t a n P - 2 4

Usnat A0

U v i n u l E-40

Uvinul MS-40

Uvinul 0-18

A n t i - d a n d r u f f

Benzophenone-3

Benzophenone-4

O c t y l s a l i c y l a t e

SOURCE

Rona

Rona

T i o x i d e

R i t a

Tomah

Croda

T r i v e n t

Henkel

I C 1

I C 1

IC1

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

I C 1

L ip0

BASF

BASF

BASF

524 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

RAW MATERIALS

Vancl ay

Van Gel B

Vanox PCX

Vanseal CS

Vanseal NACS-30

Vansael NALS-30

Veegurn/F/HV/Pro/ Regul ar/U1 t r a

Velsan P8-3

Veragel

Veragel

Veragel

Versa ty

Versene

L i q u i d

L i q u i d 1 : l

2 0 0 Powder

-42

NA

Versene-220

CHEMICAL D E S C R I P T I O N

K a o l i n

BHT

Sarcos ina te s u r f a c t a n t

Sodi urn cocoy l s a r c o s i na te

Sarcos ina te s u r f a c t a n t

Magnesi um a1 umi nurn s i 1 i c a t e

I s o p r o p y l C12-15 Pareth-9- Carboxyl a t e

A loe ve ra g e l

A loe ve ra ge l

A loe ve ra

H a i r spray PO

D i sod i urn EDTA

C h e l a t i n g agent

ymer

V i tam in A P a l m i t a t e Type PIMO/BH

V i t a m i n E Tocopherol

V i tam in E Ace ta te Tocopherol a c e t a t e

V o l a t i l e S i l i c o n e 7207 Cyclomethicone

Volpo 3 01 e th -3

Volpo 5 01 e th -5

Volpo s-2 S tea re th -2

V O l D O s-10 Steare th-10

SOURCE

Vanderbi 1 t

V a n d e r b i l t

Vanderbi 1 t

V a n d e r b i l t

V a n d e r b i l t

V a n d e r b i l t

V a n d e r b i l t

Sandoz

D r . Madis

D r . Madis

D r . Madis

Nat S ta rch

Dow

Dow

Croda

Croda

Croda

Croda

Trade-Named Raw Materials 525

RAW MATERIALS

Wachsemulsion 1864

Wheat Germ O i l

Whi te Jo joba O i l

Whi te P ro tope t

Whi te P ro tope t I S

Wickenol 163

Wickenol 386

W i t c o n a t e AOS

Ye l l ow BC I r o n Oxides

2-Cote

Ze teso l MS

Ze teso l NL

Ze teso l 856T

Ze teso l 2056

Zusol a t 1005/85

CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION SOURCE

Zschi mmer

R i t a

Ross

P e t r o l a t u m P e t r o l i t e

P e t r o l a t u m P e t r o l i t e

D i o c t y l a d i p a t e (and) o c t y l Caschem s t e a r a t e (and) o c t y l p a l m i t a t e

Alumi num z i r c o n i um t e t r a - Caschem c h l o r o h y d r e x G l y

Sodium C14-16 o l e f i n s u l f o n a t e Wi t co

Warner

Sun Smart

Zschimmer

Zschi mmer

Zschimmer

Zschi mmer

Zschi mmer

Section XIV Suppliers' Addresses

526

Suppliers' Addresses 527

Aj inomoto USA, I n c . G lenpo in t C t r . W 500 Frank W. B u r r B l v d . Teaneck, NJ 07645 (201)-907-3244

Akzo Chemicals, I n c . 300 S . R i v e r s i d e P laza Chicago, I L 60606 (312)-906-7500

A l l i e d S i g n a l , I n c . P . O . Box 2332R M o r r i stown, NJ 07962 (201)-455-2000

A l p i n e Aromat ics I n t ' l I n c . 51 E t h e l R d . W Piscataway, NJ 08854 (908)-572-5600

Amerchol Corp. P .O. Box 4051 136 Talmadge Rd. Edison, NJ 08818 (908)-248-6000

American C o l l o i d Co. Hwy 212W B e l l e Fourche, S D 57717

American L e c i t h i n C o , 33 Turner Rd. P . O . Box 1908 Danbury, CT 06813

(605)-892-2591

(203)-790-2700

Amoco Chemical C o , 200 E. Randolph D r . Chicago, I L 60601 (312)-856-3200/(800)-621-4567

Angus Chemical Co. 1500 E . Lake Cook Rd. B u f f a l o Grove, I L 60089 (708)-215-8600/(800)-323-6209

Aqua1 on 1313 N . Market S t . Wi lm ing ton , DE 19899 (302)-594-5000/(800)-345-8104

Atochem N o r t h America 900 M i l k S t . C a r t a r e t , NJ 07008 (908) -541 -441 4

BASF Corp. 100 Cher ry H i l l Rd. Pa rs i ppany, NJ 07054 (201 ) -316-3000 / (800 ) -526-1072

Berne l Chemical Co., I n c . 174 Grand Ave. Englewood, NJ 07631 (201)-569-8934

Brooks I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 70 T y l e r P lace South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (908)-561-5200

Buckman L a b o r a t o r i e s I n t ' l I n c . 1256 N . McLean B l v d . Memphis, TN 38108 (901)-278-0330/(800)-727-2772

Cabot Corp. Cab-0-Si 1 D i v . R te . 36W Tusco la , I L 61953 (217)-253-3370/(800)-222-6745

Calgon Corp. P . O . Box 1346 P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15230 (41 2) -777-8000

CasChem, I n c . 40 Avenue A Bayonne, NJ 07002 (201)-858-7900/(800)-CAS-CHEM

528 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Centerchem, I n c . 225 High Ridge R d . Stamford, CT 06905 (203)-975-9800

C i ba-Gei gy Corp. 410 Swing Rd. Greensboro, NC 27419 (919)-632-7327/(800)-221-0453

CLE I n c . 11220 Grader S t , D a l l a s , TX 75238 (214)-341-4949/(800)-638-7947

CLR: D r . K . R i c h t e r GmbH Chemi sches L a b o r a t o r i um Benn igons t rabe 25, D-I000 B e r l i n

Croda, I n c . 7 Century D r . Pars ippany , N J 07054 (201)-644-4900

C y c l o Produc ts I n c . 1922 E. 64 S t . Los Angeles, CA 90001 (21 3) -582-641 1

Cyprus I n d u s t r i a1 M i n e r a l s P .0 , Box 3419 Englewood, CO 80155 (800)-325-0299

Degussa Corp. 65 Chal lenger R d . R i d g e f i e l d Park, NJ 07660 (201 ) -641 -61 00

Dow Chemical USA 2020 Dow Center Mid land, M I 48674 (800)-258-CHEM

Dow Corn ing Corp. Box 0994 Mid land, M I 48686 (51 7 ) -496-4000

Dragoco, I n c . 10 Gorden D r i v e Totowa, NJ 07512 (201)-256-3850

Eastman Chemical Co. P . O . Box 431 K i n g s p o r t , TN 37662 (615)-229-4006/(800j-EASTMAN

ECC America 5775 Peachtree-Dunwoody R d . A t l a n t a , GA 30342 (800)-843-3222

Exxon Chemi c a l Amer i cas 13501 Katy Frwy Houston, T X 77079 ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ - ~ ~ o - ~ o o o ~ ~ R o o ~ - ~ ~ ~ - ~ ~ ~ ~ Fanning Corp. 2450 W. Hubbard S t Chicago, I L 60612 (312)-563-1234

F e l t o n Worldwide 599 Johnson Ave. B r o o k l y n , NY 11237

F i n e t e x , I n c . 418 Falmouth Ave. Elmwood Park, N J 07407 (201 ) -797-4686

F l o r i d a Food Produc ts I n c . 2231 W . Hwy 44 E u s t i s , FL 32726 (904)-357-4141

F r i t s c h e Dodge & O l c o t t I n c . 76 N i n t h Ave. New York, NY 10011 (212)-929-4100/(800)-221-7095

GE S i 1 i c o n e s 260 Hudson R i v e r R d . W a t e r f o r d , NY 12188 (518)-237-3330/(800)-255-8886

Suppliers' Addresses 529

Givaudan-Roure Corp. 100 Delawanna Ave. C l i f t o n , N J 07015 (201)-365-8000

Go1 dschmi d t Chemical Corp. 914 E . Randolph Rd. Hopewel l , VA 23860 (804) -541-8658 / (800 ) -445-1809

B . F . Goodr ich Co. 991 1 B recksv i 1 l e Rd. C leve land , OH 44141 (216) -447-5000 / (800 ) -331-1144

Haarman & Reimer Corp. 60 Diamond Rd. S p r i n g f i e l d , N J 07091 (201) -912-5707 / (800 ) -432-1559

Hampshi r e Chemi c a l Co. 55 Hayden Ave. Lex ing ton , MA 02173

Henkel Corp. 11501 N o r t h l a k e D r . C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45299 (513) -530-7300 / (800 ) -543-7370

Hoechst Cel anese Corp. 3340 W . N o r f o l k Rd. Portsmouth, VA 23703 (804)-483-7530/(800)-526-4960

Hormel P.O. Box 800 A u s t i n , MN 55912

Hu ls America, I n c . 80 Cen tenn ia l D r . P i scataway, NJ 08854

Humko Chemical D i v . W i t co Corp. 755 Crossover Lane Memphis, TN 38117 (901)-684-7047

(507)-437-5676

(908)-980-6946/(800)-526-0339

I C 1 Americas I n c . Concord P ike & New Murphy Rd. W i l m i ngton, DE 19897 ( 3 0 2 ) - 5 7 5 - 3 0 3 4 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 8 2 2 - 8 2 1 5

I keda Corp. New Mexico B l d g . 3-1, Mar unouc h i 3-Chome Chiyoda-Ku, Tokyo 100, Japan 03-321 2-8791

I n o l e x Chemical Co. Jackson & Swanson S t s . P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 19148 ( 2 1 5 ) - 2 7 1 - 0 8 0 0 / ( 8 0 0 ) - 5 2 1 - 9 8 9 1

ISP: I n t e r n a t i o n a l S p e c i a l t y Prod 1361 A l p s Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 (201) -628-3000 / (800 ) -848-7659

I F F : I n t e r n a t i o n a l F l a v o r s & Fragrances

521 W . 5 7 S t . New York, NY 10019 (212)-765-5500

K a o p o l i t e I n c . 2444 M o r r i s Ave. Union, NJ 07083 (908)-789-0609

Ke lco D i v . Merck & Co., I n c . 8355 Aero D r i v e San Diego, CA 92123 (619) -292-4900/ (800) -535-2656

Koster-Keunen, I n c . P.O. Box 447 90 Bourne B l v d . S a y v i l l e , NY 11782 (51 6 ) -589-0456

Lanaetex P roduc ts , I n c . 151 3 Ave. E l i z a b e t h , NJ 07206 (908)-351-9700

530 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

Laure l I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 29525 Chagr in B l v d . C leve land, OH 44122 (216)-831-5747/(800)-221-1304

L i p 0 Chemicals, I n c . 207 1 9 t h Ave. Paterson, NJ 07504 (201)-345-8600

Lonza, I n c . 17-17 Rte. 208 F a i r Lawn, NJ 07410 (201)-794-2400/(800)-777-1875

D r . Madis Labs I n c . 375 Huy le r S t . South Hackensack, NJ 07606

M c I n t y r e Group L t d . 1000 Governors Hwy. U n i v e r s i t y Park, I L 60466

(201)-440-5000

(708)-534-6200

Mearl Corp. 41 E. 42 S t . New York, NY 10017 (21 2)-573-8500

Mobay Corp. Mobay R d . P i t t s b u r g h , PA 15205

Mona I n d u s t r i e s , I n c . 76 E . 24 St. P . O . Box 425 Paterson, NJ 07544

(412)-777-2000/(800)-662-2927

(201)-345-8220

M o r f l e x I n c . 2110 High P o i n t Rd. Greensboro, NC 27403 (919)-292-1781

Morton I n t e r n a t i o n a l , I n c . 150 Andover S t . Danvers, MA 01923 (508)-774-3100

N a t i o n a l S t a r c h & Chemical Co 10 F inderne Ave. B r idgewate r , NJ 08807 (908)-685-5000/(800)-532-1115

Nipa L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . 104 Hagley B ldg . Concord P1 aza 3411 S i l v e r s i d e Rd. Wi lming ton , DE 19810 (302)-478-1522

Novarome I n c . 30 Stewar t P1, F a i r f i e l d , NJ 07004 (201)-575-4550

N o v i l l e E s s e n t i a l O i l Co. 1312 F i f t h S t . No r th Bergen, NJ 07047 (201)-867-9060

Pen reco 138 P e t r o l i a S t . Karns C i t y , PA 16041 (412)-283-5600/(800)-245-3952

P e t r o l i t e Corp. 6910 E . 14 S t . Tu lsa , OK 74112 (91 8) -836-1 601

P h i l l i p s 66 Co. 376 P h i l l i p s B ldg . Annex B a r t 1 e s v i 11 e, OK 74004 (806)-274-5236/(800)-858-4327

Po lyes the r Corp. 61 H i l l S t . P . O . Drawer 5076 Southampton, NY 11969 (516)-2a3-4400

PPG I n d u s t r i e s 3938 P o r e t t D r i v e Gurnee, I L 60031 (708)-244-3410/(8OO)-CHEM-PPG

Suppliers' Addresses 531

Purac America I n c . 1 1 1 Barc lay B l v d . L i n c o l n s h i r e Corpora te Center L i n c o l n s h i r e , I L 60069 (708)-634-6330

Raschi g Corp. P . O . Box 7656 Richmond, VA 23231 (804)-222-9516

Reheis, I n c , 235 Snyder Ave. Be rke ley He igh ts , NJ 07922 (908)-464-1500

Rheox, I n c . Wyckoff M i l l s Rd. H igh ts town, N J 08520 (609)-443-2320

RITA Corp. 1725 K i 1 kenny Woodstock, I L 60098 (ai5)-337-250o/(soo)-4~6-77~9

Rhone Poulenc I n c . Prospect P l a i n s Rd. Cranbury, NJ 08512 (609)-860-4000

Robeco I n c a 99 Park Ave. New York, NY 10016 (212)-986-6410

Rober te t I n c . 125 Bauer D r . Oakland, NJ 07436

Roche Chemical D i v i s i on Hoffman-LaRoche, I n c . N u t l e y , NJ 07110

Rohm & Haas Co. Independence M a l l W P h i l a d e l p h i a , PA 19105

(201)-337-7100

(201)-235-8077/(800)-526-0189

(215)-592-3000

Rona EM I n d u s t r i e s 5 S k y l i n e D r i v e Hawthorne, NY 10532 (914)-592-4660

Sandoz Chemi c a l s Corp. 4000 Monroe R d . C h a r l o t t e , NC 28205 (704)-331-7234/(800)-631-8077

S h e l l Chemical Co. P.O. Box 2463 Houston, TX 77002 (71 3)-241-6161

Stepan Co. 22 W . F ron tage Rd. N o r t h f i e l d , I L 60093 (708)-446-7500

Sun Chemical Corp. 411 Summit Ave. C i n c i nnat i , OH (513)-661-5950

Sun Smart I n c . P.O. Box 1451 Wai n s c o t t , NY (51 6)-324-8061

45232 (800)-343-2583

1975

S u t t o n L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . 116 Summit Ave. C i n c i n n a t i , OH 45232 (513)-681-5950/(800)-343-2583

T e r r y L a b o r a t o r i e s , I n c . 390 N. Wickham Rd. P . O . Box 566 Melbourne, FL 32935 (407)-259-1630/(800)-367-2563

T I C Gums I n c . 4609 R i c h l y n n D r . Belcamp, MD 21017 (41 0) -273-7300

532 Cosmetic and Toiletry Formulations

T i o x i d e S p e c i a l t i e s L t d . B i 11 i ngham, C leve land TS23 1 PS U n i t e d K i ngdom 0642-370300

Tomah Produc ts 1012 T e r r a D r i v e M i l t o n , W I 53563 (608)-868-6811

T r i v e n t Chemical Co, 45 Ridge R d . P.O. Box 597 South R i v e r , NJ 08882 (908)-251-1116

3V I n c . 1500 Harbor B l v d . Weehawken, N J 07087 (201)-865-3600

Unichema N o r t h America 4650 S . Racine Ave. Chicago, I L 60609 (312)-376-9000/(800)-833-2864

Union Camp Corp. 1600 V a l l e y Rd. Wayne, NJ 07470 (201 )-628-2660

Un ion Carb ide Chemicals and

39 O l d Ridgebury Rd. Danbury, CT 06817

P1 a s t i c s

(203)-794-5300

R.T. V a n d e r b i l t Co. I n c 30 W i n f i e l d S t . P.O. Box 5150 Norwalk, CT 06856 (203)-853-1400

Van Dyk Main & W i l l i a m S t s . B e l l e v i l l e , NJ 07109 (201 )-450-3264

V i s t a Chemical Co. P.O. Box 19029 900 Threadneedle Houston, TX 77224 (713)-588-3000/(800)-231-3216

Wacker S i l i c o n e s Corp. 3301 Su t ton Rd. Ad r ian , M I 49221 (517)-264-8500/(800)-248-0063

Warner Jenkinson Cosmetic Co lo rs 155 He len St. South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (800)-543-4524

Welch, Holme & C l a r k Co. 7 Avenue L Newark, NJ 07105 (201 )-465-1200

W h i t t a k e r , C l a r k & Dan ie l s , I n c . 1000 Coo l idge S t . South P l a i n f i e l d , NJ 07080 (908)-561-6100

Wi tco Corp. ( A l l Groups) 1)Oleo S u r f a c t a n t s Group 2)Pet ro leum S p e c i a l t i e s Group 3)Polymer A d d i t i v e s Group 520 Madison Ave. New York , NY 10022 (212)-605-3600

Zschimmer & Schwarz P . O . Box 2179 D-5420 Lahnste in , West Germany