1 04/02/2008

In Vivo Quantitative Evaluation of Gloss

藥妝 真 .晶砂

真異典藏--芳香療法、手工皂與化妝品DIY的研究世界

2 04/02/2008

Abstract

• A real time polarization analysis technique is described that differentiates components of scattered light in video images and enables in vivo quantitative evaluation of gloss from hair and skin during quality control and claims substantiation.

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Introduction

• Cosmetic manufacturers need to quantify the visual appearance of their products objectively and accurately to study skin and hair, to improve the performance, quality and the reproducibility of cosmetic products, and to substantiate their claims.

• In vivo non-contact testing provides the most meaningful results since it is carried out in realistic conditions directly on a model. For this article, in vivo gloss measurements were conducted on commercially available hair and skin products.

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Color and Gloss

Scattered light can be divided into three categories…

• Mirror-like reflected light (specular reflection)

( 鏡像反射光或鏡像反射 )

• Volume scattering（體積散射）

• Surface scatteritng　（表面散射）

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Degrees of Gloss

• Gd, ranging from 0% (low gloss) to 100% (high gloss)

　 --The percentage of specular light in the 　　　　　　　　

　　 total a mount of reflected light.

• Gd*, ranging from 0 (low gloss) to ∞ (high gloss)

　 --The ratio of specular light divided by the

　　 volume-scattered light in the direction of

　　 observation.

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Operating Principle

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Experimentation

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Result

In vivo gloss measurement of foundations

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Result

Efficiency testing of hair product

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Result

Gloss distribution

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Advantages to Gloss Measurement

• Traditional way cannot quantify accurately the gloss of complex 3D surfaces.

• The technique offers non-contact in vivo measurement independent of texture and shape.

• Correlated to human eye assessment.• The Main limitation is repositioning of

the object.

• Also can use in whitening powers, radiance, soft focus power and calibrated color measurement of scattered light.

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Conclusion

The described imaging technique opens…

• Possibility of measuring objectively the gloss of textured, complex 3D objects.

• Well adapted for the cosmetic industry to formulate, evaluate products and substantiate claims.

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References

• 1. S Breugnot, L Le Hors, D Dolfi and P Hartemann, Phenomenological• ModelofPaintsforMultispectralPolarimetricImaging, Orlando: Aerosense• (2001)• 2. HC Van De Hulst, Light Scattering by Small Particles, New York: Dover• (1981)• 3. The Munsell Book of Color, Baltimore, MD: Munsell Color Company• (1976)• 4. E Collett, Polarized Light, New York: M Dekker, Inc (1993)• 5. M Rowe, EN Pugh Jr, JS Tyo and N Engheta, Polarization difference• imaging: A biologically inspired technique for observation through• scattering media, Optics Letters 20(6), 608-610 (Mar 15, 1995)• 6. S Breugnot and P Cl menceau, Modeling of a polarization active imager• at y-806 nm, Optical Engineering 39(10) 2677-2680 (Oct 2000)• 7. R McMullen, J Jachowicz, Optical properties of hair: Effect of treatments• on luster as quantified byimage analysis, J CosmetSci54 335-351 (July/• Aug 2003)• 8. R Korichi, Video imaging in the measurement of makeup • efficacy and performance, Cosmet Toil 117(10) 39-48 (2002)