Creating a New Lawn from Seed or Turf

A new lawn can be created using either seed or turf. The preparation remains the same for either method and is the key to creating a good lawn.

There are pros and cons to using both seed or turf. Below is a list of the pros and cons for both

Benefits of using Seed

Seed can be sown much quicker than the time it takes to lay turf Easy to spread Much cheaper than turf More varieties of grass seed to choose from than in turf e.g drought/shade tolerant,

ornamental. Great for small repairs Seed will keep for several years

Disadvantages of using Seed

Needs more care after it is sown for a month or so than turf Seed is prone to being eaten by birds Heavy rain can wash the seeds away on slopes Takes a couple of months to establish before it can be brought in to use

Benefits of using Turf

Turf can be laid all year round and is a perfect winter job! Preparation is the same as for seed Turf creates an instant lawn and can be used in a few weeks Great for doing slopes Less watering is required than for seed but still needs plenty of water in the summer

Disadvantages of using Turf

Needs to be laid within a day or two of buying depending on weather and how fresh it is More expensive than seed Less choice of grass species than with seed

Preparing the ground

This is by far the most important aspect of creating a new lawn. If there is an existing lawn, this needs to be removed. I would advise killing the lawn or weeds prior to taking it up as this will help prevent any weeds or weed grasses coming through your new lawn. Use a Glyphosate weedkiller as this degrades on contact with the soil so will not harm your new lawn.

Wait for 2 weeks before stripping your old lawn off. You can use a turfing iron or a petrol turf cutter which you can hire from a tool hire shop. The old turf must be removed as it will be hard to break up

when rotavating the ground and cause a bumpy lawn. Air pockets will be created when it rots causing an even more uneven lawn. The old turf can either be disposed of or kept somewhere to rot down to make a great compost.

Rake out any larger stones, debris or roots from the soil, preferably rake out any stones larger than 10mm. Consider the quality of the soil. You may well need to make some amendments. A screened, sandy loam is the ideal bed for a lawn and what is in your existing soil will determine what to add

Sandy loam added to clay soils Loam soil added to sandy soils Organic material and humus to very heavy clay or very sandy soil

Rotavate the soil several times using a petrol rotavator or tiller. Any additional soils added should be incorporated into the existing soil to prevent layering. Add some pre seed/starter lawn fertiliser to the soil at this stage.

Next rake over the ground getting any more stones/roots/debris out. Rake the soil reasonably level so the ground looks how you want it to look as a finished lawn.

The best way to compact the ground is to tread the soil in with your heals. Walk over the ground in short steps on your heals to compress the whole area in both directions. A lawn roller can be used but treading the ground is much better

The final stage is to rake over the ground lightly to get a final smooth level ready for seeding or laying the turf. If the ground is dry then some watering may be required.

Sowing Grass Seed

Good soil contact and constant moisture and even spreading are the three most important things. You can either use a broadcast spreader or spread the seed by hand. It is best to split the amount of seed needed into 2 or 4 equal lots and spread the seed in two directions to get an even spread all over the lawn.

New grass seed needs regular light watering, twice a day for the first couple of weeks and once a day for the next two weeks and then twice a week for the second month. This can be done less frequently if it rains or maybe more if it is very warm weather.

The new grass should start to grow within 2 weeks and should be given its first cut when it is about 5cm tall and be careful to cut the grass when it is dry and be extra careful when turning the mower. Cut the lawn on the high side and gradually reduce the height after about 4 cuts.

Seasonal fertilisers will help the new lawn to establish and be sure to keep the new grass well watered.

You should ideally keep off the new lawn for the first 2 or 3 months at least depending on the species of grass.

Laying Turf

It is so important to buy good quality turf if you are going to spend the extra money for an instant lawn. Drought tolerant, hard wearing and ornamental varieties are available.

Start by rolling the turfs across the first long edge of the garden, ensuring that each turf buts up close to the previous roll. Once you get to the end of the garden, cut the last roll with a sharp knife. The off cut can be used to start the next row if it is not too small.

Use some scaffold planks to lay over the first row so you can stand on the turf without damaging them. Continue to roll the turf in rows and stagger the joint making sure all edges are butted up so there is no gaps.

Try to avoid very small pieces of turf and using small pieces around the edges where they may not get as much water like next to fences etc.

Be sure to lay the turf within a day or two of delivery and keep in a shady area if it is warm.

If it is very warm and the area to be turfed is large you may need to start watering turf in as you are laying it as turf will shrink in the heat.

Finally water the new lawn in thoroughly, preferably with a sprinkler for approximately 5 or 10 minutes in one spot. This should be done on a daily basis for the first two weeks then weekly after that. This may be required more frequently in the middle of summer. Watering is best done early in the morning or, failing that, in the evening through spring and summer.

To check if your turf has had enough water, lift a turf and if the ground is cold and slightly damp it has had enough water.

A newly turfed lawn can be cut when it has grown a little, maybe 1 or 2 weeks after laying. Only give the lawn a light cut on a higher setting and be careful when turning the mower as the roots will not have grown deep into the soil below. Gradually reduce the cutting height after 3 or 4 cuts

A regular fertiliser programme can start after about 3 months. A full lawn care programme should be started in the second year.

A turfed lawn can be used in about 4 weeks in good conditions, unlike a seeded lawn, but should be treated with care for 2 or 3 months