creating an edible school garden

Acknowledgments

Prepared by the Nutrition team of the Tropical Public Health Unit Network, Queensland Health.

Special thanks to all Queensland Health staff who provided comments.

Cover illustration by Lauren Ackers of Fudge Puppy Design.Design and layout by Di James.

Australian Guide to Healthy Eating – funded by the Commonwealth Department of Health and Family Services under the National Nutrition Policy Program. Prepared by the Children’s HealthDevelopment Foundation, South Australia and Deakin University, Victoria, 1998. CopyrightCommonwealth of Australia. Reproduced by permission.

© Queensland Health 2003. ISBN 0-7345-2998-8. Version 1. Printed June 2003.

Queensland Health permits the reproduction of this work in whole or in part for educational purposeswithin an educational institution and on the condition that it not be offered for sale.

1

Contents

INTRODUCTION ..................................................................................................................................................................................3

CHAPTER 1 Before you Begin ................................................................................................................................................4

What kind of garden is right for you?..........................................................................................................4Traditional cultivation......................................................................................................................................4Planting..................................................................................................................................................................4‘No dig’ gardening ..........................................................................................................................................5Container gardens ..........................................................................................................................................5Other gardening options..............................................................................................................................5Equipment and supplies ..............................................................................................................................6Safety ....................................................................................................................................................................6Funding..................................................................................................................................................................7

CHAPTER 2 Garden Site Analysis ........................................................................................................................................9

How to analyse your garden ............................................................................................................................9Selecting a site ................................................................................................................................................9Sunlight analysis............................................................................................................................................12Soil analysis ....................................................................................................................................................13

CHAPTER 3 How Does Your Garden Grow? ..............................................................................................................18

Designing a garden bed ..................................................................................................................................18Garden tools ..........................................................................................................................................................18Get gardening!......................................................................................................................................................18

1 Traditional cultivation ............................................................................................................................182 How to prepare a ‘no dig’ garden ................................................................................................203 How to garden using ‘direct sowing’ ..........................................................................................204 How to build a ‘transplanting garden’ ........................................................................................21

CHAPTER 4 Maintaining your garden ............................................................................................................................23

Watering ..................................................................................................................................................................23Climatic conditions ......................................................................................................................................23Soil type ............................................................................................................................................................23Plant type ..........................................................................................................................................................23

Mulching ..................................................................................................................................................................24Top ten mulches ............................................................................................................................................25

Fertilising ..................................................................................................................................................................25Weed Control ........................................................................................................................................................25Pests and Diseases............................................................................................................................................26

How to prevent pests and diseases ..................................................................................................26Natural controls..............................................................................................................................................27

2 DIG IN: Creating an edible school garden

APPENDICES ......................................................................................................................................................................................28

Appendix A Creating a container garden ........................................................................................28Points to consider ........................................................................................................................................28

Type of pots ..............................................................................................................................................28Pot size ........................................................................................................................................................28Potting mixes ............................................................................................................................................28Drainage......................................................................................................................................................29Watering......................................................................................................................................................29Fertilising ....................................................................................................................................................29

Appendix B Creating a school compost bin ..................................................................................30Points to consider ........................................................................................................................................30

What can you compost? ....................................................................................................................30What can't you compost?..................................................................................................................31Getting the mix just right ....................................................................................................................31The perfect compost pile ..................................................................................................................32The easy way to compost ..................................................................................................................32How often should you compost? ..................................................................................................32Compost troubleshooting ..................................................................................................................32

Appendix C Creating a school worm farm ......................................................................................33Points to consider ........................................................................................................................................33

What's good for worms?....................................................................................................................33What's not good for worms? ..........................................................................................................33Where to make a worm farm............................................................................................................33How to make a worm farm ................................................................................................................33Getting started ........................................................................................................................................34Collecting the castings ......................................................................................................................34Worm water ..............................................................................................................................................34

Appendix D Garden tools ............................................................................................................................36

Appendix E Facts on fertilisers ..............................................................................................................39Essential plant nutrients ............................................................................................................................39Types of fertilisers ........................................................................................................................................40

Organic fertilisers ..................................................................................................................................40Inorganic fertilisers ................................................................................................................................40Liquid fertiliser ..........................................................................................................................................41

Appendix F Plant selection guide ..........................................................................................................42Australian climate zones ..........................................................................................................................42Fruit selection guide....................................................................................................................................44Vegetable selection guide........................................................................................................................48Herb selection guide ..................................................................................................................................53Nut tree selection guide............................................................................................................................55

Appendix G Vegetable planting calendar ........................................................................................56Planting calendar for tropical zones....................................................................................................56Planting calendar for temperate zones ..............................................................................................57Planting calendar for cool zones ..........................................................................................................58

Appendix H Common garden pests and diseases ....................................................................59Common garden pests ..............................................................................................................................59Common plant diseases............................................................................................................................61

REFERENCES ....................................................................................................................................................................................62

INTRODUCTION 3

Introduction

Why create a school garden?

Gardening provides children with an important opportunity to learn through active participation and experience. Growing fresh produce allows children to investigate, experiment, manipulate,contemplate, problem solve and succeed. A healthy garden requires the adoption of caring attitudesand values and the demonstration and application of a wide range of skills. Children love to growthings and they love food, bringing fun and enjoyment into the learning process.

Using gardening as a learning tool offers many advantages. Many plant varieties, particularly ofvegetables and herbs, have a relatively short cycle from germination to maturity, allowing on-goingfeedback about the health and development of the plant. Additionally, the high success rate ofgardening projects provides motivation to the children and promotes positive self-esteem.

In addition to learning about food and nutrition, gardening activities offer an opportunity to address arange of science, technology and environmental concerns. For example, children can:

• establish direct links with the land and promote stewardship for it’s well-being

• discover interdependency between humans and nature and recognise the necessity to coexist withthe wider animal and vegetable domains

• embrace the basic environmental concepts that are crucial to their existence and future

• begin to understand essential ecological processes

• recognise that they can have a positive impact on their environment

• examine the wise use of technology in relation to growing

• develop positive attitudes towards the environment

• gain a general understanding of life cycles

• be empowered in making informed decisions regarding the environment

Dig In is an easy to use guide to school gardening. The information provided is designed to giveclassroom teachers in a variety of schools and circumstances, information to begin a range of schoolor classroom gardening projects. While teachers are encouraged to read this guide thoroughly, theymay take from it only what is of most relevance to their own gardening project.


Chapter 1

Before you begin

What kind of garden is right for you?

Before you begin to garden, it is important to decide what your gardening method is going to be.Fortunately, there are several gardening options to suit the needs of individual schools, and the spaceand facilities available.

Traditional cultivation

To garden in the traditional way, you need an area of soil to be cleared, loosened, aerated, mixed with organic matter, and prepared for planting. It must be protected from human traffic, and have a good source of sunlight and rain. This is an effective type of gardening for students who enjoy hands on activities and the outdoors.

See Chapter 3: ‘How does your garden grow?’ for easy to follow steps on how to garden the traditional way.

Planting

To plant a garden, there are two types of planting that should be considered: direct sowing or transplanting.

Direct sowingMost vegetables can be sown directly and successfully grown. Sowing directly into the garden bedprevents transplant shock, which inevitably occurs when seedlings are planted out. This can meanthat vegetables that are sown directly into beds actually mature more quickly than transplanted plantsgerminated at the same time.

When direct sowing, seed can be either broadcast or sown in rows. Medium and large sized seedscan be easily sown in rows. Very fine seed, however, can often be broadcast and thinned out aftergermination.

Bed preparation is crucial to direct sowing successfully. Soil must be broken up into a fine seed bed.Soil that is rough and uneven and still clinging together in clods can not provide seeds with adequateair/water balance for successful germination.

See Chapter 3: ‘How does your garden grow?’ for easy to follow steps on how to garden the Directsowing way.

TransplantingAlthough most vegetables can be grown directly from seed, there can be many advantages ingrowing seedlings at school.

Transplanting seedlings, however, requires care and skill and the needs of the young plant mustalways be foremost in the mind of the planter. If seedlings are transplanted carelessly they will sufferseverely from the shock and, even if they recover, their growth and development will be set backconsiderably.

See Chapter 3: ‘How does your garden grow’ for easy to follow steps on how to garden thetransplanting way.

CHAPTER 1 5

‘No dig’ gardening

‘No dig’ gardening provides an alternative garden bed preparation technique which is suitable forsites with soil that is particularly difficult to manage such as very heavy clay, gravel, or heavy grasscovering. This preparation method removes the need to dig the garden area. Instead, it involvesbuilding the bed on top of the existing soil surface.

Using this method you can build your garden bed straight on top of grassed areas. There is no needto dig or prepare the ground in any way. It works by creating its own growing medium, which providesplants with support, nutrients, air and moisture balance without depending on the surface soil. Overtime this technique builds up topsoil which, with the help of worms and micro-organisms, infiltrates theoriginal surface. The end effect is that the garden bed becomes conditioned and traditional methodsmay then be adopted. In the process, this method also effectively controls existing weeds and grassesunder the area covered due to the exclusion of sunlight.

The disadvantage of this method is that it does require additional materials, some of which canrepresent significant costs.

• The bed is raised, so some types of garden borders are required. Old railway sleepers are usefulhere, although any timber can be staked into position.

• A supply of good quality, screened garden soil, preferably with a high organic component, isrequired to provide support for seedlings.

• A supply of compost to provide nutrients is also required.

• See Chapter 3: ‘How does your garden grow?’ for easy to follow steps on how to garden the ‘no dig’ way.

Container gardens

If lack of suitable place for a garden bed is an issue, creating a container garden may be the answer.While most herbs can be grown successfully in a pot, there are also many varieties of fruits andvegetables that can also be grown, not to mention the large number of sprouts. When creating acontainer garden, there are a number of things that are important to consider

See Appendix A: Creating a container garden for easy to follow steps on how to develop a container garden.

Other gardening options

If creating a garden isn’t an option for you at the moment, whether it due to time, space or moneyconstraints, there are other options that you can do more quickly and easily.

Creating a school worm farm

Prior to developing a school garden, or as an additional project, some classes may like to develop aworm farm. Developing and maintaining worm farms is an excellent physical activity for students andcan easily link to science, technology and environmental curricula. Worm farms are easy to develop,require less room than a garden and teach students the many benefits worms provide for the garden.For example, worms:

• break up and process organic materials by eating organic materials and excreting them as casts

• mix the soil components (particularly the organic components) as they eat their way around

• increase the availability of the nutrients in the soil and organic materials due to the above two factors

• improve the structure of soil through the mixing action and the presence of casts.

• increase the growth of plants through enabling plant roots to penetrate soil more easily andincrease the penetration of air and water

See Appendix C: Creating a school worm farm for more information.


Creating a school compost bin

Another option for classes to take as an alternative to gardening, or in addition, is composting.Composting is an inexpensive way to improve the soil in your garden, as it speeds up the naturalprocess of decomposition. It is achieved by placing the required amounts of suitable organic wastematerials together under the right conditions. When the balance is right, heat, water, bacteria andoxygen then combine to accelerate decomposition to produce nutrient-rich compost.

Creating a compost will provide students with the opportunity be physically active and learn aboutscience, technology and the environment. It will also teach students how valuable composting is togardeners. For example, composting:

• recycles organic waste. Most organic waste from thehome or garden can be used in compost making.

• is basically a free fertiliser. It is nutrient-rich in forms thatare useful to plants. It is superior to chemical fertilisersas it won’t harm or kill earthworms in your soil.

• promotes earthworm activity by providing a food source.

• provides organic material which improves the soilstructure, increasing the ability of soil to absorb andretain water for use by the plants.

• provides excellent mulch, providing a wide range ofbenefits, such as conserving water and preventingerosion.

See Appendix B: Creating a school compost bin for more information.

Equipment and supplies

It may be possible to secure some financial support for the garden program from the school Parentsand Citizens Association. However, in many cases, due to limitations of the school budget, you maybe required to look elsewhere for equipment and supplies. The following are some suggestions ofwhere support can be sought.

Borrow gardening tools from the school garden shed.

Request second-hand materials from class members’ home.

Request donations of or discounts on materials from local community members and organisations. Forexample, approach local nurseries or supermarket chains for seeds and seedlings or animal manurefrom local farmers.

Safety

Supervision of students

Each State and Territory has its own specific legal requirements regarding excursions and schoolprograms. Be sure to clarify and conform to the regulations of your local education body in areas of:

• insurance cover

• teacher/adult to student ratios

• parental permission

• transit to and from garden site.

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Sun safety

It is important for everyone to practice sun safety during the course of the gardening program.Consider the following:

• Timetry to avoid the sun in the middle of the day, 10am to 3pm.This will reduce your exposure to UV rays by up to 60 per cent.

• Shadestay in the shade of trees or buildings whenever possible. Ifthere is no shade, try making some of your own – an umbrella,a very large hat, a large towel draped over something.

• Clothingwear loose, comfortable clothes that cover you well, especially your neck, arms and legs. A closelywoven fabric lets in fewer UV rays than a loose-weave fabric.

• Hatwear a broad-brimmed hat that will shade your face, neck and ears. This alone will cut UV rays toyour face and eyes by about half. Protect your eyes with sunglasses that have the AS1067 rating.

• 30+ sunscreencover any areas likely to get exposed and areas likely to get reflected rays from the sun, such as your face. Apply sunscreen 15 minutes before going out into the sun and reapply it every two hours or more often. For sensitive parts of the face, such as the nose and lips, use a solar lip screen.

Safety when using tools

Whenever gardening tools are used, there are some basic safety tips which need to be considered:

• ensure all gardeners are wearing suitable protective footwear

• check the condition of all tools prior to use – ensure all metal parts are securely attached towooden handles

• check wooden handles for splinters that might lodge in the user’s hands

• ensure that all children know how to operate each tool correctly and safety. Include specific safety rules

• specify and enforce a safety zone around dangerous implements when they are being used.

• nominate tow safety officers from your class who are trained to watch for and stop unsafepractices, according to agreed classroom procedures.

Funding

The sustainability of a school garden project is often dependent on the number of people availablewho are willing to help. However, finding volunteers is often a very difficult task. Below are somesuggestions for recruiting volunteers to help with your school garden:

• Identify possible target groups – parents, grandparents, retirees, senior citizen groups, unemployedpeople, local gardening clubs, other community groups.

• Consider the most effect methods of establishing contact with each of these target groups.Potential avenues include the school newsletter, flyers, the local paper, community announcements,job boards and employment agencies, letters to external agencies. There are also organisationsthat will recruit volunteers for you.

• Consider any potential barriers to involvement and develop strategies to overcome these barriers.

• Identify strategies to encourage and maintain involvement.


While the needs of the volunteers are being met, it is likely they will continue to offer assistance. It is therefore important that their needs are considered:

• Maintain an atmosphere that is friendly and welcoming whilst remaining professional.

• Get to know your volunteers – take an interest in them.

• Provide adequate training.

• Ensure the number of volunteers is adequate for the workload.

• Recognise and utilise individual skills.

• Plan specific events to acknowledge the contribution of volunteers.

It is important to remember that volunteers are giving their time for free, so never take them forgranted.

In addition to recruiting volunteers, your school may be in the position to fund the employment ofsomeone to help with the project. Some suggestions for sources of funding include:

• Community organisations such as Rotary, Lions and RSL Clubs

• Local health promotion grants

• Local councils

• Parent and Citizens or Parents and Friends Associations

• Local businesses

• Department of Employment, Education and Training.

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Chapter 2

Garden site

analysis

It is important to investigate a few potential sites for your garden bed before selecting the final site.There are a number of factors that should be included in any garden site analysis, including theavailability of sunlight and the soil type. Access to water is also an important issue to consider. Anaccurate analysis of the soil conditions at a potential garden site helps determine the most relevantapproach to its preparation for planting.

The first decision to be made is whether the site is suitable for traditional cultivation. If the siteconditions are extremely harsh they will require extra effort and time to be made ready for planting.Being restricted by the school year and to seasons, this extended preparation time may not beavailable to you.

Such conditions include:

• very heavy clay soils which are difficult to cultivate

• sites grassed densely with grasses such as kikuyu and couch

• areas with a high proportion of gravel

• compacted soils (old car parks or driveways).

In such situations it may be better to use alternative gardeningtechniques such as the ‘no dig’ preparation method (See Chapter3: How does your garden grow?).

However, if the site conditions are reasonable and it is decidedthat a traditional cultivation preparation is suitable, then the soil atthe site must be analysed to help determine suitable preparationmethods and quantities and to assist with accurate varietyselection.

How to analyse your garden

Selecting a site

SIZE OF THE GARDEN

There are no firm rules when it comes to deciding how much space is adequate, as the requirementsof each class will vary greatly. An allocation of 0.7–1m2 per child will provide an adequate, flexiblegardening space for class groups. It is important to remember that this space may be divided in manyways. It may be one large garden bed or a number of smaller beds which may or may not be at thesame location and which will demand more space because of the area occupied by dividingpathways.

Finding a suitable location for your garden may take some time and thought. Initially many people onlyconsider sites within the school grounds. However, successful school gardens have been establishedoutside of the school grounds.


The following are some external sites that could be accessed for a school garden:

Large sites

• Council propertiesCouncils have a range of secure lots and storage areas. There may even be an active communitygarden in your area. Beware of dangerous substances in council depots.

• Local business premisesMany businesses have large enclosed rear areas which may be suitable. Contact businessespersonally or through your local business development board

• Local gardening clubsMany areas have established gardening clubs. Where they have no available land of their own, theymay be able to direct you to likely areas. Such clubs can also provide valuable support.

• Local churchesMany churches have large churchyards. Be sure these areas are secure.

Advantages of large sites• Single location for whole class.

• Minimal additional supervision requirements.

• Larger, more highly productive garden beds can be established.

• Teacher can personally observe and monitor each individual within the class group.

• Less complicated travel arrangements.

Disadvantages of large sites• Large premises are often less secure (especially out of office hours).

• Maintenance and care over school breaks and weekends is often less available.

Small sites

• BackyardsThese tend to be the most accessible spaces to schools.

Backyards may belong to:

– the families of the children in your class. Simply send home a letter

– the families of other children in the school whose properties may be more accessible. Use theschool newsletter to contact them

– local residences. Local residents may be happy to participate in a school gardening program.Contact the locals directly and outline your aims and requirements

– the wider community. Advertise the aimsof your program through the localcommunity paper and request space from well-positioned locals.

• Small plots and gardensIt may be possible to access space for yourgarden at:

– hospitals

– nursing homes

– hostels.

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Advantage of small sites• Security is assured in most backyards due to permanent occupation, observation and

good fencing.

• Maintenance over school breaks and weekends is simplified.

• The opportunity exists to group children in a variety of ways – cross-age, single sex, friendship and interest.

• Parents can be involved easily in the class curriculum in a relaxed and supportive setting. Parentsalso become custodians and tend to experience a sense of program-ownership.

• The knowledge, experience and skill of others can be passed on to children through involvingparents and residents in the gardens located on their grounds.

• There is usually a wider selection of offers from which to select a site.

• Tool and implement requirements are reduced as it is often possible to use the host’s resources.

Disadvantages of having a number of small sites• Additional adult supervision becomes a necessity.

• Travel to and from garden sites become more complicated with each additional site and needs tobe planned carefully.

SECURITY

Like it or not, security is an important issue in choosing a garden site. Having a garden disturbed ordestroyed by intruding people or stray animals can be very demoralising and upsetting for thechildren. If possible, select a site that is fenced in and/or, where possible, has adjoining areas wherepeople are in permanent residence.

PROXIMITY TO SCHOOL

The location selected needs to be as easily accessible to the class as possible. Being within 10minutes travel of the school is workable. Any more time spent in travel begins to infringe on theprogram time allocation.

SITE HISTORY

The past use of a potential site will have a bearing on its suitability for a garden. Most soils can bemodified and improved, but if soil is severely damaged this can be too expensive and time-consumingto be viable.

There are some sites that should never be considered for gardens. These include sites:

• where chemical spills or intense usage are suspected

• where poisons and other dangerous substances have been used or stored.

There are also some sites that can prove too difficult to establish a healthy garden. These sites may include:

• old car parks, roadways or compacted areas. Compaction affects the structure and aeration of the soil and is difficult to rectify.

• areas with extremely heavy clay soil. These areas can be difficult to prepare, especially for children.If unavoidable, seek adult or mechanical assistance for the initial site digging.

• sites full of foreign material such as gravel, stones, glass and rusty wire. These areas can bedangerous.

• areas densely covered with Kikuyu or couch or other dense grasses.

While many of these problems can be overcome, it is preferable if these sites can be excluded.


Sunlight Analysis

Sunlight is crucial to healthy plant growth, but one must be reminded that the amount of availablesunlight varies from season to season and day to day. As the year approaches the winter solstice (theshortest day of the year), the amount of sunlight we receive diminishes. During this period of the year,shadows are also lengthened as the sun appears lower in the sky and because there is a greaterlikelihood of cloud cover. Towards the summer solstice, the situation is reversed.

The amount of sunlight that plants receive is critical to their growth. If adequate sunlight is notavailable, neither the richest soil nor the best water supply can make up for it.

All plant species have their particular sunlight requirements. Ferns for example, are found in shadygullies where they receive all the light they need. If a cactus was planted in the same shady gully,however, it is unlikely to survive as it has a greater light requirement for survival and growth.

Vegetables, both summer and winter varieties, are generally sun-loving plants, although they cantolerate some variation. Abundant sunshine all year round is the key to their healthy and vigorousgrowth.

In this site analysis the factor considered in sunshine. Where, within the available space, does themaximum sunlight fall? At what time of the day and for how long?

When the site analysis has been completed, the space, which provides the most available sunlight,can be identified. Ideally, for the best garden results, the garden bed should be located there.

To analyse the availability of sunlight at each potential site, you will need:• a sunny day!

• 10–30 pegs or wooden skewers

• ball of string

• scissors

• paper and pencils

• compass.

Procedure1 Visit the site you want to analysis. Draw a map of the site. For

example, if you are in a backyard, draw the entire backyard.

– Pace out distances for scale.

– Include all things that might influence the sunlight in the garden such as the house or buildings,sheds, trees, fences and clothes lines.

2 Plan three visits to the site (morning, lunchtime and afternoon). Use the pegs and string to markout the areas which are in shade on each visit. Leave the pegs and string in place until visit three.Draw them on your map.

3 After the third visit, examine your map. Mark areas that were not in shade at any time as Zone 1.Mark areas which were in shade for one visit as Zone 3. Mark areas which were in shade for morethan one visit as Zone 3.

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Soil analysis

As many plants are fussy about the soil they grow in, it is also useful to know what type of soil is inthe potential garden bed. Knowing this, we can select suitable plants to grow and we can work outhow to improve the soil. For example if the soil is very sandy, we can add extra organic matter toimprove its structure so that it will retain moisture better.

Not all soils appear the same. Even within one garden it is often possible to observe three or fourdistinctly different soils. Each soil is formed under different conditions, in a different location at adifferent time. This means that each soil has its own balance of minerals and organic matter and,consequently, appears different, holds different amounts of air and water and will sustain differentliving organisms.

The make-up and balance of soil is not stable and is constantly undergoing change. This is veryimportant when considering how soils should be treated.

Soils are formed over many thousands of years under the influence of a number of forces:

• BiologicalPlants break up rocks with their root systems. The animals on or in the soil help to mix it up andbreak it down into smaller forms. The secretion of animals also contributes.

• ClimateWind and water, heat and cold all combine to erode the parent substances which are broken downto forms soils.

• TopographyThe topography of an area controls how forces of climate affect an area. For example, steep areasare affected differently to flat areas.

• ChemicalWater and oxygen combine to dissolve particles and then re-combine them in different forms.

The soil at each potential garden bed site should be examined in the following two ways: soilstructure and soil pH.

SOIL STRUCTURE

Soil has many components. Two vital components of soil, which at first glance we may overlook, areair and water. Any soil conditions that exclude either one of these components provides anenvironment suitable only for specialised plant life such as mangroves and cactus. For most plants tothrive, a balance of air and water must be maintained in the soil.

For soil to maintain an air and water balance, it must be open and free draining. The pore spacesbetween mineral particles need to be large enough to allow air and water to infiltrate freely. Watermust be able to drain through the soil without being trapped, filling all the pore spaces and excludingair. To maintain an air and water balance, soil must also maintain some water, not letting all water passstraight through. Without holding some water in its pores no moisture would be available to provideplants with their requirements for healthy growth.

Soil that is predominantly sand is open. Sand is composed of relatively large mineral particles withlarge pore spaces. Sand does not compress easily to close up these pores. Any water is absorbedquickly by sand and able to pass through unhindered, draining rapidly through the sand layer. Sand,being very open, has no way of holding moisture in its pores, sand drains and dries out very quickly.To maintain air and water balance in sand it must be watered extremely frequently to top it up.

Clay presents the opposite extreme. Clay particles are extremely fine and fit neatly together leavinglittle space between them. Clay particles also compact easily, further closing the pore spaces. Anywater flowing onto the surface of a predominantly clay soil is absorbed into the surface slowly and is


trapped within the pore spaces, draining through very slowly. Clay traps water easily in its fine porespaces. Water passes through a predominantly clay soil with difficulty which can lead to waterlogging.This is when all the pores are full with water and no more can soak in. When soil becomeswaterlogged, all air is excluded, upsetting the air and water balance.

It is also important that the soil allows for easy root penetration and growth. Roots use the open poresto travel in search of nutrients and moisture. Sand is very open and promotes root growth but has fewuseable nutrients which prevents many plants from thriving. On the other hand, clay has small porespaces that fit tightly together, making it extremely hard and inhibiting healthy root growth. Clay,although it is nutrient rich, makes it difficult for plants to get nutrients, again inhibiting growth.

What is needed is a soil somewhere between a course sand and heavy clay. A well-balanced soilrequires a range of large (sand), medium (silt) and small (clay) particles all fitting together. When a soilis well-balanced, the pore spaces are irregular – some large, some small, some in-between. Thisallows water to drain freely through the larger pores and prevents waterlogging, while holding somemoisture in the smaller pores to provide plants with moisture and nutrients over an extended period oftime.

A soil, which has a balanced range of particle sizes, is said to be well structured or ‘friable’. A friablesoil breaks up easily into clumps when it is cultivated. Even when crumbled, friable soil still appears tohold together. Sand when cultivated falls completely apart while clay is hard to cultivate as it sticksstrongly together.

Crucial to the structure of all soils is the inclusion of organic matter such as compost or well-rottedmanure. Organic matter helps bond soil particles together in crumbs, helping to form irregular porespaces.

By adding organic matter to sand, it holds the sand particles together. By adding organic matter toclay, it bonds the fine particles into irregular shaped crumbs, opening up the soil. Organic matter isalso a rich source of nutrients.

Investigate each potential garden bed site and determine how well structured the soil is byconducting a series of tests.

Soil tests

1 Water reaction

YOU WILL NEED:

• large sieve

• two 2-litre measuring jugs

• stopwatch

• soil samples from each site (For accuracy, the soil samples should be oven dried, removing all moisture)

15

PROCEDURE:

• Label each sample: Site 1, Site 2, etc.

• Place three cups of the first sample soil into the sieve. Shake it lightly and pat the surface lightly.Do not pack down.

• Holding the sieve over one measuring jug to catch the overflow, poor 500ml of water over the soil.Let it drain through the soil for one minute.

• Remove the sieve. Measure the amount of water that has flowed through.

• Repeat for each soil sample, recording the results and consider the following questions:

• Soil from which site drained most quickly?

• Soil from which site drained most slowly?

• Why were they different?

2 Soil classification

Each soil particle type feels different. For example, sand feels gritty, silt feels silky smooth and clayfeels sticky. When these particles are mixed together, they make soils which feel different and holdtogether differently. We can classify them by feeling the soil particles and by seeing how well theyhold together.

Take a handful of a soil sample. Wet the sample until it is moist but not soggy. Use this sample to tryand make the shapes described.

SAND

Soil type

Roll the soil into a ball

Action

• Soil feels gritty• Soil won’t stick together, just falls apart if you try

and put it down.

Result

SANDY LOAMRoll the soil into a cylinder • Soil will make a short cylinder (6cm), but will fall apartwhen you make a longer cylinder (15cm).

SILTY LOAM• Soil will make a 15cm cylinder but cannot be bent at all without it breaking.

• Soil has a strange silky-smooth feeling and does not feel gritty at all.

LOAM• Soil will make a 15cm cylinder but cannot be bent. • Soil does not feel gritty but it also does not feel

silky-smooth.

CLAY LOAM• Soil will make a 15cm long cylinder and can be bent without breaking.

• Soil does not feel gritty or silky.

SANDY CLAY• Soil will bend into a circle but cracks slowly. • Soil feels slightly gritty.

SILTY CLAY• Soil will bend into a circle with some cracks showing.• Soil feels smooth.

CLAY• Soil will bend into a circle and does not crack at all.• Soil holds together tightly.

LOAMY SAND• Soil feels gritty• Soil just holds together but you can’t make shapes

without it falling apart.


3 Soil pH

Soil pH is the measure of the acid level of the soil. Different plants prefer different pH levels, forexample, vegetables prefer a mid-range pH level. The adjustment of the soil pH is simple and effectiveonce levels are determined.

Soil is an extremely complex structure and is made from a range of components. These componentscombine to provide the range of elements essential to plant health and growth. These elements are:

• Calcium • Phosphorus • Sulphur

• Nitrogen • Manganese • Boron

• Magnesium • Copper • Zinc

• Iron • Molybdenum • Potassium

Soil can sometimes have the supply of any one of these elements run down, in which case they need to be replenished. This can happen naturally over many years or artificially in a short space of time by a gardener.

Often these elements (especially the trace elements) are plentiful in the soil but simply not in a waythat is useful to plants. The acidity or alkalinity directly affects the availability of elements to plants. If the soil is too acid or too alkaline, various elements are less soluble and therefore less available to plant root systems.

pH is measured on a scale of 1–14. Most soils range between4–9 on the ph scale and it is within this range that mostessential plant nutrients are available. pH is easily measured witha range of testing kits which can be found in any garden centre.

A pH level of 5 or lower is considered a strongly acid soil, whicha pH of 9 or higher is considered strongly alkaline. A pH of 7 is neutral, neither acid nor alkaline.

For a healthy garden, the ideal is to have a pH level of between 6and 8. The pH level of a garden bed can vary according to arange of contributing factors, including:

• the amount, origin and composition of organic matter

• predominance of subsoil

• types of crops or vegetation previously grown on the site

• amount of watering.

The pH level of a soil can be adjusted quite easily:

• If a soil is acid, raise the pH level by adding alkaline material. For example, apply lime at a rate of approximately 200 grams per square metre, adding slightly more if the soil is clay and slightlyless if the soil is sand. Water in lightly and then re-test the pH level.

• If a soil is alkaline, lower the pH level by adding acid material. For example, apply Flowers ofSulphur at the rate of 10 grams per square metre, adding slightly more if the soil is clay andslightly less if the soil is sand. Water in lightly and the re-test the pH level.

Do not try to make dramatic and sudden changes in the pH of your soil, as this can shock your plantsto death. Instead, apply the appropriate remedy. Let the soil lie for two months, test it again and makeanother application if necessary. Repeat at two monthly intervals until the correct pH is achieved.

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To test the pH level of your garden bed, you will need:

• Universal Indicator and colour chart (available from school science chemical suppliers)

• clean pop sticks

• lime (finely powdered shell, crushed limestone, builder’s lime)

• sulphur (flowers of sulphur, sulphate of ammonia)

PROCEDURE:

• Using a small handful of soil, add a little water and mix with a clean pop stick until you make asmooth paste.

• Add a few drops of Universal Indicator to the paste. Do not stir in.

• Leave the paste for approximately two minutes.

• Compare the colour of the drops of indicator with the colour chart. What is the approximate pHlevel of the soil.

• Using a fresh clean pop stick, mix another handful of the same soil into a paste.

• Add half a teaspoon of lime to the paste.

• Repeat steps 2 and 3.

• Compare the colour of the drops of indicators with the colour chart. What is the approximate pHlevel of your sample now?

• Using another fresh clean pop stick, mix another fresh handful of the same soil sample into asmooth paste.

• Add a quarter teaspoon of sulphur to the paste.

• Repeat steps 2 and 3.

• Compare the colour of the drops of indicator with the colour chart. What is the approximate pHlevel of your sample now.

Select the site of your garden and adjust the pH to between 6 and 8 by adding lime or sulphur ifnecessary.

NOTE: When using chemicals, observe safety precautions. Always wash hands after use andavoid contact with skin, eyes and mouth.


Chapter 3

How does your

garden grow?

Designing a garden bed

Where possible, garden beds should run east–west to maximise available sunlight.

Pathways should divide large garden areas into narrow beds. At their widest point, garden beds forchildren should be no wider than 1.5 metres. Length is not a problem.

Garden tools

There is a huge range of different tools available to the gardener, many of them with specialistfunctions. A selection of more common, general-purpose tools are listed in Appendix D: Garden Tools.It must be noted that as some tools are designed to deal with extreme soil conditions, safetyrecommendations are also included to assist teachers in selecting a suitable range.

Get gardening!

1 Traditional cultivation

The preparation process is a progression of simple procedures, which will:

• loosen and aerate the soil ensuring that roots are able to grow vigorously

• enrich the soil with organic material, which helps ensure nutrients are available to the growing plantand that the soil structure is such that it is able to drain freely

• maintain a suitable air/ moisture balance.

Follow each preparation stage thoroughly. Once you have selected a suitable site, the next mostimportant thing to help grow plentiful, strong and healthy crops is good preparation of the garden bed.

YOU WILL NEED:

• spades • rakes• hoes • pegs• string • measuring tape• garden design plan• well rotted compost or old manure

PROCEDURE:

1 Mark out the garden beds

Using the pegs and string, mark out your garden beds. You may want to begin preparing only halfthe available space. This will allow you to prepare the other half while the first garden is growing.This helps to spread the workload and the produce will mature at different times.

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2 Clear the surfaceThis site must be cleared of weeds and grass. Where possible, pull weeds by hand. If this is notpossible, dig them out using a spade, hoe or mattock. Do not dig deeply.

Where there is Kikuyu or couch grass covering a garden site, you may have to remove the top layer:a Cut the grass surface into squares with the spade.b Use the spade to cut away the roots just below the soil surface.

Where Kikuyu, couch and other perennial grasses are found, the garden bed will need to bemaintained constantly to inhibit re-growth.

3 Loosen the soil surfaceBreak up the topsoil to a maximum depth of about 20cm (spade blade depth), or to the depth ofexisting topsoil. Do not be tempted to dig too deep as this will just turn up the subsoil and won’thelp plants grow. Loosening the soil helps to aerate it and prepares it for adding organic materials.

4 Add organic matterAdding organic matter to the garden bed is essential to improving the soil structure and providinguseable nutrients to the growing plants.

Spread your compost or manure thickly over the surface. Make sure that you have plenty – themore the better. Rake it evenly over the bed. Five to 10cm is a really good covering.

5 Mix the organic matter with the soilUsing a three-pronged hoe, fork or spade, gently mix the organic matter with the loosened soilsurface. Do not dig the organic matter under the soil surface. Do not mix deeper than 20cm. Rake lightly to level the surface and break down any remaining lumps.

6 Leave the garden bed to settleNow that you have added what the garden needs, it must be left to settle for at least two weeks. Thisis because, while you prepared the bed, all the micro-organisms and small animals in the garden bedwere disturbed or killed. They are very important to a healthy garden. Two weeks gives them time tore-establish themselves. Now would be a good time to release earthworms into the garden.

7 While the garden bed is settlingThere are many things that can be done while the garden bed is settling. Begin growing yourseedlings so they are ready to plant out. Place borders around your garden beds to clearly markpaths and keep the garden looking neat. Place straw on pathways to suppress weeds and preventmuddy feet. Keep an eye on weed re-growth.

8 Final preparation

• Remove any large weeds that have germinated while your garden has been settling. Very fineweeds can be left and raked into the soil later. Avoid walking over areas to be planted, yourpathways should be marked clearly.

• Using the hoe, break up all the large clods of soil which remain in the garden bed. Try to make the soil as fine as possible.

• Rake the soil surface. Remove any large clods which can’t be broken up and make sure thesurface is level.

• Using your Garden Design Plan, measure out the areas where each vegetable will be planted and mark them with the pegs and string.

• If you have decided to use furrow watering, form your furrows now before planting any seeds or seedlings.


2 How to prepare a ‘no dig’ garden

Before deciding on this preparation method, ensure that all materials are available.

YOU WILL NEED:

• pea straw • newspaper• straw • timber or bricks to border the garden• compost or decomposed manure• soil – preferably sterilised for weed seeds and screened for large particles

PROCEDURE:

1 Mark out your garden area

Mark out your garden area. Remember to allow for pathways so that all parts of your garden bedcan be reached easily. Establish the borders with timber or bricks.

2 Spread newspaper

Spread sheets of newspaper (at least six sheets thick) over the garden and path areas to kill the grass underneath. Make sure that there are no gaps between sheets by overlapping them by 4–5cm.

3 Spread pea straw

Pea straw bales usually separate into ‘slices’ tease these out, ripping and shredding by hand.Evenly spread a layer of pea straw 10cm thick over the garden area.

4 Spread compost

Evenly spread 2–3cm of compost or decomposed manure on top of the pea straw.

5 Spread straw

Evenly spread another layer of straw (this time wheat or barley)

6 Spread top layer of soil

Top off your layers with 10–15cm layer of soil. Your garden is now ready for planting.

3 How to Garden using ‘direct sowing’

YOU WILL NEED:

• seed • rake

PROCEDURE:

1 Moisten soil

Make sure the soil is moist. A soaking two days before planting is best.

2 Mark out rows

Using the handle of your rake, or any long narrow stick, lie it along your garden bed where youwish to plant the row. By pressing the rake handle gently into the soil, you can create a furrow inwhich you can plant the seeds. Repeat at the correct spacing for your rows.

Check the information on the seed packet or in your planting guide to find out how far apart rowsshould be spaced and how deep the furrow should be.

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3 Place seed in the furrow

Large and medium sized seed can be placed be individually in the furrow at the proper spacing.Small or fine seed can be placed in the furrow by mixing the required amount of seed into ahandful of sand and spreading the seed/sand mix thinly along the furrow. Alternatively, make asharp fold in the top flap of the seed packet and using this fold as a lip, gently tap the seed packetwith your fingers so that the fine seeds fall very thinly (one or two at a time) into the furrow.

4 Cover the seed

Cover the seed, using either soil from the bed or some sand. Make sure the seed is buried to thecorrect depth according to the seed packet.

5 Water in seed

Water in lightly with a fine mist spray. Do not water too hard as the seed will be dug out. Do notsoak as too much water will exclude the air and can damage some seeds.

6 Keep bed moist

During germination, the soil should not be allowed to dry out. During the hot weather it may benecessary to water lightly every day. A thin (20mm) layer of mulch will help to keep the soil moist.

Do not cover the seed rows too deeply with mulch as it will stop the new plant emerging from thesoil.

7 Thin out plants

Once the new plants have emerged you may have to thin out the number of plants where you havesown fine seed. Check how far apart the plants should grow. Select the weakest looking seedlingsand remove them from the row. Leave the strongest plants to grow.

4 How to build a ‘transplanting garden’

YOU WILL NEED:

• seedlings • hoe• planting stick – a small pointed stick (10mm diameter)

used to create holes in which to plant seedlings

PROCEDURE:

1 Before planting

Water the seedlings to be transplanted the day before planting. Make sure the soil in the gardenbed is moist for planting. A good soaking 2–3 days before planting day is ideal.

If your seedlings have been grown inside or if they have been bought from a garden centre, theyshould be placed in a reasonably sunny and exposed spot for a few days before planting. This iscalled ‘hardening off’ and will help your seedling survive transplanting.

1 Planting out

Using your planting stick, mark where each seedling will be planted. Be sure to leave the correctspace between each row and each plant.

If you have furrows, water should run along the furrows but the seedling holes should be justabove the level the water will reach in the furrow, and not in the bottom of the furrows.

Tip your punnet of seedlings upside down holding your hand over the top of the punnet to catchthe seedlings. Gently tap the bottom of the punnet with your other hand until the seedlings and soilbecome loose from the punnet in one complete block. If the soil in the punnet is moist, it shouldhold together well.


Be extremely careful not to damage the fragile roots of the seedlings. Gently separate one seedlingfrom the edge of the block of seedlings. Be careful to keep as much of the soil as possible aroundthe seedling roots.

Immediately make a hole using the planting stick large enough to comfortably hold the soil and rootball of the seedling. The hole should be deep enough for the seedlings to be planted at the samedepth as in the punnet. Do not plant too deeply.

When is the best time to plant out?The weather conditions in the garden while you are planting are quite important to successfulgrowing. Planting should ideally take place on a cool, overcast day, two to three days after a goodsoaking rain. This assists in reducing transplant shock by helping prevent the soil moistureevaporating and by not rapidly drying the sensitive roots of seedlings are they are planted out.

Avoid planting seeds and seedlings when the soil is saturated or waterlogged. This leads to aninadequate oxygen supply for the young plants and seeds alike. Working a saturated soil will alsodamage soil structure.

Gently hold the seedling in place with one hand and the soil around the roots with the other. Pushthe soil around the roots firmly enough to hold the plant but do not pack down too tightly. If the soilis too tight, air and water will not be able to get to the roots and the roots will not be able to groweasily through the soil.

Repeat this procedure for each seedling until all the seedlings are planted.

3 Watering

Water the seedlings in immediately. Provide plenty of water gently so seedlings are not disturbed.

Keep the soil around the seedlings moist. Do not allow the soil to dry out. Regular deep watering,every 2–3 days, is the best method. This encourages roots to grow deeply. Laying some organicmulch around the seedlings as soon as they are planted will help to keep the soil moist.

23

Chapter 4

Maintaining

your garden

Watering

Adequate can mean the success or failure of a garden so it must be one of the major considerationswhen setting up. This does not just mean having a tap close by. It means making sure you get theright amount from the tap to the plants at the right time and in a manner which ensures minimal lossor wastage along the way.

It is important to examine the conditions of your garden and the particular needs of your plants anddevelop a water plan accordingly. Consider each of the following when planning your watermanagement.

Climatic conditions

• Temperature

In hot conditions, water evaporates very quickly from soil and leaves.

• Strong windsStrong winds also evaporate water rapidly.

• RainfallPlants can not be grown successfully in many climatic regions of Australian without at least somesupplementary watering. The amount of extra water needed is dependent on the seasonal rainfall,wind and temperature.

Soil type

The soil type is a very important factor in determining the water needs of your garden. Light sandysoils have a lower water holding capacity than heavier clay soils, so need more frequent watering.

Plant type

The individual characteristics of each plant type will also determine the frequency and amount of waterrequired.

• Deep root vegetables draw water from deep in the soil so needing less frequent watering.Vegetables like pumpkin, tomato, parsnips and watermelon prefer a good watering every few days.

• Shallow rooted vegetables have a smaller area of soil from which to draw their water and need tobe watered more frequently. These include lettuce, cauliflower and cabbage.

• Medium rooted vegetables prefer a moderate soaking every second day.

• Large leafed plants such as cabbages, lettuces and pumpkins lose a great deal of water throughtranspiration. This greatly increases water requirements, especially when during hot or windyweather.


Soaking is generally more efficient than a light spray. Also water jets which produce larger drops aremore effective than a light spray which is more vulnerable to the effects of wind and evaporation. If anadequate soaking is given two to three times a week, deeper vigorous root growth is promoted.

Water in the cool periods of the day, either early in the morning or in the evening. A huge amount ofwater is lost to evaporation if watering is undertaken during the hot periods of the day. This is evenmore important if using a fine spray to water.

Do not water in strong winds, as much of the water sprayed will be blown away from where youintend it to go or will be evaporated. A windbreak around the garden that is in an exposed area willextensively reduce water loss. The best windbreaks are natural vegetation, which don’t block out allwind or light.

Good organic mulches conserve water by:

• reducing water evaporation from the soil by reducing wind speed at the soil surface to zero and byprotecting the soil surface from direct sunlight.

• preventing excessive run off and erosion and promoting better infiltration of water into the soilsurface. By slowing the water down, more is able to soak into the soil surface.

• preventing the formation of a sun baked crust on the soil surface which prevents water soaking in.This can be a particular problem with clay soils.

• enabling gardeners to water heavily and less often, giving deep soakage. This ensures the soilremains constantly moist and that water is available to plants for longer periods, promoting deepand vigorous root growth.

Soil preparation is also very important for effective water management in the garden. Well-structuredsoil with plenty of organic matter retains water more efficiently than poorly structured soil which is toosandy or has too much clay. Composting provides your soil with nutrient-rich organic material forwater retention and healthy growth.

Group plants of similar water needs together. Over-watering does not produce better plant growth, it just wastes water.

Mulching

Mulching is a very important aspect to gardening. Mulch is a layer of material that is laid down toprotect the soil. Forests produce their own mulch by dropping leaves and branches and collections of other materials that accumulate on the soil surface. In the garden, we have to provide the material.The best mulches are things that will decompose quickly, providing nutrients for the soil andpromoting new growth.

Mulching also:

• keeps the soil surface at a relatively constant temperature. This greatly extends the active periodsfor earthworms and other micro-fauna, even into the hot summer months, promoting soilimprovement.

• provides a constant supply of nutrients as they continuously decompose into the soil surface.

• provides a constant supply of food and shelter for earthworms, promoting surface activity.

• extends the growing period of many plants by insulating the soil and ensuring availability of water.

• keeps down weed growth by excluding sunlight.

• allows plant roots to use the top few centimetres of soil more efficiently.

25

Ten Top Mulches:

• Compost: adds humus to the soil, helps to improve soil structure and allows good moisture penetration.

• Grass clippings: high in nitrogen and other nutrients. Should be dried before use.

• Pine bark: low nutrient, dense, acidic mulch. Slow to rot, it is good for paths.

• Leaf litter: quick to break down into rich humus. Shred it before use.

• Wood chips: long lasting but do not add many nutrients to the soil.

• Cocopeat: made from waste coconut fibre. It is a good substitute for peatmoss.

• Sawdust: must be composted before use. Good for paths and between rows of vegetables.

• Rotted animal manure: high in nutrients. Avoid using fresh manure as the ammonia may burn the plants.

• Seaweed: high in nutrients, rapidly enriched sandy soil. Ensure it is washed before use to remove surface salt.

• Mushroom compost: different qualities vary in alkalinity. Check pH before using.

Fertilising

Plants need a variety of chemical elements to sustain healthy growth. Well-fed plants are better ableto defend themselves against insect pests and are less susceptible to disease.

Different plants have different nutrient requirements. It is important to research the nutrientrequirements of the particular plants in your garden.

See Appendix E: Facts on Fertilisers for more information on fertilising your garden.

Weed control

In any garden there are a range of unwanted, uncultivated plants which will appear. Often these plantswill grow to the exclusion of the desired plants or crops and are known as weeds.

In the garden, weeds, especially some extremely vigorous varieties, compete with the crops for vitalplant needs such as space, nutrients, water and light. Uncontrolled weeds also provide a haven fordisease and ideal breeding and hiding conditions for insect pests.

Some weeds are very invasive (such as oxalis). These will quickly choke out young plants and ‘steal’nutrients from the soil. Make sure you can recognise the real problem weeds and remove themimmediately.

There are many effective weed control strategies available to the home gardener without having toresort to spraying with dangerous herbicides that risk the fragile ‘life’ of the garden environment. Athorough understanding of some good gardening practices can remove the need for having toconsider chemical conditions.

Hand pulling, hoeing and chipping are the best methods of controlling weeds. Hand weeding ispreferable in small spaces and is easier to do when it follows watering or rain and if it is done when


the weeds are young. Using a garden fork and trowel will help to remove the entire root system. Whenremoving weeds around fragile roots systems, cut the weed off at the surface with a pair of scissors.This way the roots won’t be disturbed.

Mulching helps to suppress weed growth in an environmentally friendly way. For areas where verytough perennial weeds or grasses are a problem, thick layers of newspaper under a layer of organicmulch can give extra help.

It is important to remove weeds before they flower. Once they have flowered, produced anddistributed their seeds, next season’s weeds are ready and waiting to go.

Weeds can come from many places. Be careful what you bring into your garden. Animal manureshould be composted before being used as this will kill weed seeds. Imported soils can bring a wholerange of new weeds into your garden, so take care.

Recycle the weeds you remove from your garden by putting them on the compost heap. That way thenutrients they have used and stored can later be replaced in the garden.

Prevention is better than cure. Control weeds before they become a major problem. This is especiallyimportant while seedlings are young and fragile.

Pests and diseases

The first line of defence against garden pests and diseases is prevention. A garden which has strong,vigorously growing plants, where good gardening techniques are used, which does not provide aninsect/pest breeding haven, will be less susceptible to pest and disease attack.

The second line of defence is a sharp eye. If a gardener can recognise the symptoms of diseases orthe telltale calling cards of insects and pests easily, it is often possible to take simple measures toprevent catastrophe. Knowing how to react once a problem is discovered is important.

How to prevent pests and diseases

Make sure that the plants in your garden are strong and healthy. Give them all the things that theyneed. The strongest plants are attacked last and they stand the greatest chance of a successfulrecovery.

Keep weeds in the garden area under control. Garden pests, like all living creatures, need the rightconditions to thrive and multiply. Many garden pests love tall weeds to grow and breed in; if you don’tcontrol the weeds, you are encouraging the pests.

Remove rubbish and other great hiding places. Piles of rubbish, bricks, wood and pots providewonderful breeding environments for many pests. By keeping the garden area clean you arecontrolling the environment.

Rotate crops around your garden each season. If the same crop is grown in the same location seasonafter season, it encourages healthy populations of soil-borne pests and diseases.

Grow your own insect repellents. This is one of the uses of ‘companion planting’. Many herbs andflowers can be grown in the vegetable garden specially for their repelling qualities. Look for the rightvarieties in a companion planting book.

27

Natural controls

Make your garden a healthy place for the ‘good guys’ to be. Only a few creatures in the garden arepests; many of the good creatures help to control the pests naturally by preying on them. Do not usechemical sprays and poisons as these may harm the helpful spiders, birds and insects as well as thepests.

Here are some of nature’s own controls:

• Birds: help to keep many insects pests under control. Attract them into your garden by growing plantsthat feed and shelter them, such as fruit trees.

• Ladybirds: feed on aphids, mites, mealy bugs and scales.

• Praying mantis: feeds on aphids and thrips.

• Mud wasps: feeds on many types of caterpillars.

• Hoverflies larvae: attach and eat aphids.

• Dragonflies: eat mosquitoes, flies, small beetles and wasps.

For more information on pests in the garden refer to Appendix H Common Garden Pests.


Appendix A

Creating a

container garden

Points to consider

Type of pots

There are many different types of pots for growing plants. It is important to choose the right pot foryour needs.

1 Plastic pots

Plastic pots are cheap, durable, colourful and light to move around. Being waterproof, they do notdry out as fast as porous containers and thus need less frequent watering and feeding.

2 Timber containers

Wooden pots or containers usually look attractive and are also waterproof. The disadvantages ofwood include its weight and the fact that it will eventually rot, although this usually takes a longtime. Raise wooden pots off the surface to minimise rotting beneath.

3 Ceramic pots

Ceramic pots include unglazed terracotta and glazed earthenware or stoneware. Glazed pots andunglazed stoneware containers are waterproof, but terracotta pots are porous. This means thatthey can dry out fast and always require more frequent watering than waterproof containers. Morefrequent watering means more frequent feeding as watering washes some nutrients out of the soilwith every application. The disadvantages of ceramic pots include their fragility, weight and cost.

4 Concrete containers

Because of their weight, concrete pots are best placed permanently. Although they vary in size,weight and cost are the main disadvantages of these pots.

Pot size

It is important when creating a container garden, to match the potential size of the plant to the size ofthe pot. Plants that are grown in a pot that is too small quickly fill the pot with their roots and requirefrequent watering. Conversely, if the pot is too big and without roots to extract the water, much of thesoil will remain permanently damp and stagnant and may lead to rotting of the roots.

Potting mixes

A good quality potting mix is essential when growing plants in containers. Quality potting mixes areclean, weed-free and disease-free. They are designed to be fast draining yet moisture retentive, andbecause they are relatively lightweight, it makes it easier to move pots around. There are speciallyformulated mixes for plants with special needs. Be sure to choose a potting mix that suits therequirements of your plants.

29

Drainage

Good-sized drainage holes are vital in pots as even the best potting mix won’t drain if there isnowhere for the water to go. Avoid pots with drain holes that seem too small for the volume of soilthey will contain, or drill some more holes if possible. Although it is not strictly necessary with today’spotting mixes, to ensure adequate drainage, fill the bottom of the pot with a layer of broken pots orcoarse gravel.

Avoid standing the pots in a saucer of water as this can easily lead to waterlogging. It is best to raisethe bottom of the pot off the ground using bricks, stones or pot feet. This will allow excess water todrain freely away, minimising damage to the bottom of the pot. However, in some circumstances, suchas indoor plants, it is not practical to allow the water to drain away. In this case, use saucers to catchexcess water but remove this water as soon as possible.

Watering

It is important to water potted plants when they need it rather than to schedule. This will be muchmore often in summer than in winter, in sun than in shade, in porous than waterproof pots, in smallerthan in bigger pots and in a windy position than a sheltered spot. Feel the top 3cm of soil to test if theplant requires watering: if it feels quite moist, do not water, but if it feels just damp, it is time to water.Be sure not to let the potting mix dry out completely, as it can then be quite difficult to re-wet.

Fertilising

Potting mixes contain little or no plant foods and you should blend some into the mix at planting time.The amount to add will vary with the size of the pot and the type of fertiliser but in all cases it is betterto add too little rather than too much, as this can kill the plants. Giving too little just makes the plantsgrow slowly and this is easily fixed.

Only apply fertiliser during the growing season for that particular plant. Most plants grow mostvigorously from spring to mid-autumn and do not need fertiliser from the end of summer until earlyspring. Always apply fertiliser to moist potting mix and always at the recommended rates. Slow-release fertilisers are the most convenient for potted plants.


Appendix B

Creating a

school compost bin

Points to consider

What can you compost?

• Grass clippings:mix them with other, coarser material or else they will becomevery hot when they rot and will turn into green slime.

• Fallen leaves: slow to rot unless mixed with other compost matter.

• Weeds: be careful about which weeds you compost – avoid menaceweeds such as oxalis, onion weed and nutgrass bulbs. Weedsin seed are also a problem, as the compost may not get hotenough to destroy the seeds.

• Prunings: chop them up into small pieces – use a mulcher if possible.

• Kitchen scraps: Include fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds and tea leaves or bags. Avoid adding too muchcitrus peel as this can upset the worms. Potato peelings are a problem if the eyes sprout into apotato vine – this will steal nitrogen from your pile so pull it out. Eggshells should be crushed.Meat scraps should be avoided as they can attract flies and rats.

• Manure: adds nitrogen and helps vegetable matter to rot. Best if a few weeks old before it goes in.

• Straw: smaller lengths (25mm) are better.

• Sawdust: sets like cement on its own so mix it with other stuff and throw in an activator such as well-rottedpoultry manure.

• Carpet fluff and hair: empty out the vacuum cleaner if your carpet is 100% natural fibre. Avoid if your carpet is synthetic,as the fibres will not decompose.

• Fertiliser: throw in any leftover ‘organic’ fertiliser.

• Ash: ash from burnt wood (not coal) is useful.

31

What can’t you compost?

• Plastic, glass and metal:These have a way of sneaking in if you are not careful. Remember that cigarette packs are linedwith aluminium foil.

• Rubber: It may come from trees, but it will take years to break down.

• Oil: Fried foods and salad dressings with oils should be avoided. The oil sets like a lacquer and stopsthem rotting.

• Dairy foods: These may smell, attract pests and take a long time to decompose.

• Diseased plants: Your compost heap may not get hot enough to kill off the disease organisms. Dispose of them inthe rubbish bin instead.

• Cat litter: There are a number of potential pathogens in cat litter, and they can be transferred to the compost.

• Paper: Newspaper shredded small is okay if you throw in some poultry manure, but glossy magazinepaper decomposes too slowly.

Getting the mix just right

Just piling up any old mix of garden rubbish doesn’t guarantee great compost. There should be25–30 times more carbon than nitrogen for it to work well. You can estimate it by weight if you like,but if you get in the habit of composting everything you can, you should end up with an okay mix.

What’s high in carbon? Woody prunings (chopped small), sawdust, hay, shredded paper, fallen leaves.

What’s high in nitrogen?Grass clippings, green plants, old flowers, animal manure, fruit and vegetable scraps, seaweed, hair.

A typical compost recipe includes:• 10cm of food scraps, excluding meat scraps

• 10cm grass clippings, leaves or prunings

• 2cm poultry manure

• 10cm food scraps


• light dusting of agricultural lime

• 10cm food scraps


• 10cm torn up or shredded, moistened paper

• dusting of blood and bone or wood ash.


The perfect compost pile

The ideal way to build your compost pile is to fill your bin all at once, with a 15cm layer of one matter,then a sprinkling of activator (blood and bone or poultry manure), a layer of something different, moreactivator and so on until you reach the top. Water as you go to keep the matter moist, but not soggy,then thatch the whole thing with a layer of straw. Once it’s done, start a new pile. You need about acubic metre of matter to achieve a critical mass.

The easy way to compost

Most of us build up a compost pile over many weeks with a catcherful of grass, kitchen scraps,shredded newspaper, etc. throw in a handful of blood and bone or poultry manure along with therubbish. When your pile’s up to a cubic metre, start turning it – if you never turn your heap, it willcompost more slowly.

The really lazy way to compost is to just have one bin, piling new stuff on top and scooping finishedcompost out from the bottom.

How often should you compost?

Turning compost mixes the ingredients, aerates the pile and speeds up the process. For fast compost,turn the pile every three days for two weeks, and then leave the pile undisturbed for another week.You’ll have compost in three weeks. For lazy compost, turn the pile every six weeks to three monthsand you will have compost in six months. Don’t turn compost more than suggested here or the pilewill not decompose at all.

Compost troubleshooting

• Your compost heap smells

The pile is too wet or compacted and isn’t getting enough air. Anaerobic bacteria (the ones thatdon’t need oxygen) have set to work and are giving off hydrogen sulphide (smells like rotten eggs).Take a garden stake or broom handle and stab the heap as deeply as you can in half a dozenplaces to let in the air. If it still smells, give the heap a good turn and add some straw or sawdustto help dry it out. Adding lime may also help.

• The pile is not rotting

Your pile may be too small or there is too much dry material and not enough moisture and nitrogen-rich green matter to feed the bacteria. If your pile is less than a cubic metre, make it bigger. Makesure woody matter is cut into 25mm lengths. If it is too dry, mix some nitrogen-rich soluble fertiliseror poultry manure in a bucket of water and add to the pile.

• You’ve got rats and flies

You’ve put the wrong sort of food scraps in. Bury scraps in the middle of the heap and put a layerof soil on top of the pile. Weigh down the lid with a rock to stop rats and possums getting in.

• There’s an ammonia smell

Composting bacteria have gone overboard producing nitrogen. Is there too much green matter inthe pile? Add straw or dead leaves and put a layer of soil on top to trap the nitrogen.

• There is an ant infestation

Your compost pile is too dry. Add water and fresh cucumber peels.

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Appendix C

Creating a school

worm farm

Points to consider

What’s good for worms?

• Vegetable scraps, fruit peels

• Tea bags and leaves, coffee grounds

• Egg shells, hair

• Paper towel, flattened torn-up cardboard, shredded newspaper.

• Animal manure

• Leaves, weeds and lawn clippings.

What’s not good for worms?

• Onion skins and citrus peel – they are too acidic for worms

• Meat, fat, bones, bread and dairy products

• Avoid seeds like pumpkin, tomato and pawpaw, which will pop up in the garden when the wormcastings are spread around.

Where to make a worm farm?

Worms like to live in moist but not wet conditions, so it is important that the soil on which you placethe bed drain freely. They also like shade in summer and sun in winter. Under the north side of a treeor big shrub is ideal.

How to make a worm farm

You can buy a PVC stackable worm farm or build a simple bed on the ground.

A bed 1m x 60cm is a good size to start with and can be easily expanded if necessary. The sidesneed to be about 10–20cm high. You can use old palings, scrap hardwood planking or treated pine.


PROCEDURE:

• Clear the area and mark out the boundaries of the bed.

• Hammer together a simple rectangular box. Join the ends together through a 50 x 50mm squarepeg in each corner. If using hardwood you’ll find drilling and screwing is easier than hammering.

• Divide the box in half with a strip of old chicken wire, making two chambers, one on the left andone on the right. This means you can harvest the castings without taking the worms.

Getting started

• On one side of the bed, put down a 50mm thick layer of natural materials, such as shreddednewspaper, leaves, sawdust or compost.

• Moisten, then add a container of worms. Usually, red wrigglers or tiger worms come in containersof 1000.

• Next add finely chopped or blended kitchen waste. Sprinkle on a little sand or potting mix andcover with a piece of old wool carpet or hessian, cut to fit.

As well as food scraps, periodically add more sand and potting mix. Keep moist.

Collecting the castings

• When the first chamber is full, start on the second chamber. As the food supply in the firstchamber runs out, the worms will move over into the second one. Worms find watermelon rindirresistible and they’ll soon move over if you put some in the second chamber.

• Don’t touch the first chamber for a month or more. Then, if no worms are visible, rake the castingsto one side and shovel up. If worms are still there wait a bit longer. Spread the castings around thegarden thinly and if possible dig them into the soil. Don’t forget the pots too.

Worm water

A gentle way to distribute the goodness of worm castings onto the garden is to make them into liquidfertiliser. Tip the castings into a plastic rubbish bin or other container. Fill with water and let stand aday or two to settle. Scoop out the water and pour onto the garden. Refill with fresh water and repeatuntil the water is no longer the colour of tea. Tip out the spent castings thinly onto the garden.

Using a worm farm with glass sides, you can also create a small farm so that the students are able toclearly see what is happening.

YOU WILL NEED:

• Worm farm with glass sides

• Black plastic sheet

• Old hessian bag

• Two soil types – ideally light loamy soil (ensure two distinct colours)

• Partly composted organic material

• Supply of vegetable scraps

• 50 earthworms.

35

PROCEDURE

1 Using the two different coloured soils and the compost material, begin to place them in looselayers in your worm farm. Create layers approximately 2cm thick. Ensure soil is moist.

2 Make the top layer of soil 5cm deep.

3 Your farm should have a striped appearance.

4 Dig a small hole in one end of your farm and bury a handful of vegetable scraps.

5 Your farm is now ready for the worms.

6 Place the worms on the surface. They will quickly bury themselves as they try to escape from the light.

7 Cover the glass sides with black plastic. Attach the plastic at the top of the farm, leaving thebottom unattached so that you have made a flap which can be lifted easily to view the worms.

8 Cover the top of your farm with a piece of the old hessian bag, folding it until it is thick enough tostop light getting through. Do not place the plastic over the top of the farm or the worms will notbe able to breathe.

9 Keep the cover moist at all times.

10 Lift the plastic flap and look carefully at your farm. On the record sheet, draw your farm, showingthe different layers. Make sure you measure them and try to draw them to scale.

11 Every three days, lift the plastic flap, examine your farm and carefully sketch what you see.

12 Compare the changes.


Appendix D

Garden

tools

Pick

The pick is an implement with two extended narrow blades running at right angles to the woodenhandle. The pick is sturdy and heavy, designed to penetrate and break up compacted soil and toexcavate hard areas. The pick is used with a swinging action, utilising its won weight and velocity topenetrate and break up the surface.

The pick is an extremely dangerous tool due to the sharp ends of the blades and to the large swingingaction required to use it. It is recommended that, when this tool is being used, all children leave thearea. The use if this implement is not recommended for children under 12 years old.

Mattock

The mattock is similar to the pick with shorter, wider blades. The mattock, when being used forexcavation, is used in a similar fashion to the pick and is generally used for less compacted soil. Themattock can also be used as a tool for chipping weeds. When used for this purpose, a short backswing is used to bring the flat blade down in a chopping action across the surface.

The mattock is a dangerous tool due to its weight, the back swing required and the blade style. It isrecommended that, when this tool is being used, all children leave the area. The use of this implementis not recommended for children under 12 years of age.

Spade

The spade’s function is to dig the earth. It has a flat, rectangular, metal blade for this purpose. The topedge of the blade is bent over to provide a small ledge on which to place a foot to assist penetrationof the soil. Small-bladed versions are available which are light enough for most children to use.

Always place the spade’s blade on the surface before pushing the soil rather than thrusting at the soil,as the spade can easily slip and injure the feet of the user or another child.

Fork

The fork may be also used to dig over the earth, especially when the soil is more compacted or clay-like and hard to penetrate with a spade. Approximately the same size as a spade, a fork has fourprongs in place of the rectangular blade. Smaller versions are available of suitable weight for children.

The prongs of the fork can easily penetrate a foot or a leg. It should not be raised above the knee andshould be pressed into the soil and then assisted with a foot.

Hoe

The hoe has a long, thin wooden handle and a small, flat, metal blade at right angles to the handle. Itis used in a low chipping action to break up large clods of earth and remove weeds. It is not designed

37

to break up hard earth and should not be used with a high swinging action. The hoe is a lightimplement, light enough for children aged between 10 and 12 years to use.

The blade on a hoe is quite sharp and if swung around is potentially dangerous. The blade should notbe lifted above knee height, and should be used under adult supervision only.

Three-pronged hoe or weeder

The three-pronged hoe has a long thin, wooden handle with three curved prongs (approximately 15cmlong) attached. The prongs act to scarify the soil surface and remove weeds and grass roots. Thethree-pronged hoe is used in a dragging and pushing motion. This hoe is very useful for final weedingand loosening before planting if your site has been left for a while since the original cultivation. It islight and easy to use.

The three prongs of the hoe are very sharp. The prongs should not be lifted above knee height. As thehoe is used in a pushing and pulling motion through the soil, there is no need to swing it at all. Itshould only be used under adult supervision.

The Dutch hoe

Similar to the hoe, the Dutch hoe has a long thin handle with a small, flat metal blade. The blade on aDutch hoe, however, is set at approximately 30 degrees to the handle. It is used to remove weedsfrom your prepared garden bed. The blade is pushed across the surface and severs the weeds at thesoil level, where the leaves join the roots.

There is no need to lift the blade above knee level. When being used, the blade should always be incontact with the ground. As the blade should be kept quite sharp to be effective, care must be takenand should only be used under adult supervision.

Steel rake

The rake has a long, thin handle with a wide head containing anumber of short prongs that are evenly spaced across the head.The rake is used to spread soil and level the garden bed. It will alsoremove the large clods of soil that can be broken up and replacedinto the bed. The rake is used in a pushing and dragging motionacross the surface of the soil. It is important to remember that thewider the head of a rake, the more difficult it is for children to use.Narrow-headed rakes with fewer prongs are available for childrento use.

The rake should not be raise above knee height. There is noapplication, which requires a swing action. Rakes should not be leftlying on the ground with the prongs poking up as this could causeserious injury if stepped on. It is recommended that an adultsupervise children when using a rake.

Shovel

Similar to a spade in appearance, a shovel has a rectangular metalblade. Unlike a spade, a shovel blade is not flat but rather curvedso it can hold a large load. The shovel is used for scooping up soil,rocks and stones for transfer from one location to another. Shovelsare generally too heavy to be used by young children.


The shovel should not be used for digging. When using a shovel to move material from a pile, alwaystake from the base of the pile to avoid the blade skating over the pile and striking nearby gardeners.As the shovel must sometimes be used with a small back swing, it should be checked that all othergardeners are standing clear.

Hand trowel

The hand trowel is a small digging implement with a flattish blade and a short handgrip attached. The hand trowel is used for digging small holes in which to plant seedlings

The trowel is an extremely safe implement to use as it is small and light. Because of its size andweight, it is tempting for gardeners to throw hand trowels. This is an unsafe practice as the trowel can strike other gardeners or cause soil to flick into other’s eyes. The hand trowel is recommended for use with children.

Hand weeder

The three-pronged hand weeder is similar to a miniature three-pronged hoeand serves the same purpose. It consists of three heavy curved wire prongsattached to a handgrip. The tool is dragged through the soil to remove weeds.It is an excellent tool for the final weeding of small individual plots inpreparation for planting and for carefully weeding around seedlings as theygrow.

This is another safe and practical implement when used correctly. It is safeunless thrown and is recommended for use with children.

Hand fork

The hand fork is a miniature version of the garden fork and is designed for similar use but on a smallerscale. The hand fork usually has four straight prongs attached to a handgrip. It can be used fordigging over heavier soils and also for weeding.

The hand fork is another safe and useful tool for children to use unless it is thrown.

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Appendix E

Facts on

fertilizers

Before we talk about fertilisers, we should discuss the roles of different nutrients in providing optimalsoil health.

Essential plant nutrients

Older leaves with uniform yellowing, often with reddish tints; premature maturity;retarded growth; excessive leaf loss

Signs of deficiency

Nitrogen

Nutrient

Builds vegetative growth andheightens foliage colour

Function

Stunted growth; blue-green or bronze toningon older leaves

Phosphorus Helps flowers, fruits, seeds and rootsto develop and strengthen stems

Leaf margins scorched; Spotting surroundedby pale zones on leaves

Potassium Assists chlorophyll formation, floweringand root development and respiration;increases disease resistance;strengthens stems

Patchy yellowing on older leaves with dark green triangular pattern at the base of the leaf; excessive leaf loss

Magnesium Assist with chlorophyll andphotosynthesis

Distorted stems; curling and mottling of olderleaves

Molybdenum Aids the formation of nodules inlegumes and the enzymes used in nitrogen fixation

Yellowish or light green areas between veins on both younger and older leaves;water-soaked spots develop on foliage

Manganese Required for enzyme systems, whichresult in oxidation of sugars andchlorophyll formation

Yellowing of young leaves with veins remaininggreen; youngest leaves become almost white;reduction in leaf size and early leaf fall

Iron Needed for the proteins in chlorophyllsynthesis and in enzymes

Reduced leaf size; twisted foliage; creamy-white to yellow blotches or mottling on youngleaves first

Zinc Required for chlorophyll synthesis and in enzymes

Tip curling; blackening and early shedding ofyoung leaves

Calcium Helps to build healthy roots and cellwalls

Yellowing leaf margins; dimpled apples; hollowstems in cauliflower; distorted leaves onbeetroot

Boron Affects the growth of stems and roottips; contributes to protein synthesis; isrelated to calcium and potassium use

Twisted and curling foliage; tips of youngleaves wilt and die; leaves darken to blue-green colour

Copper Important for the enzyme function andis stored in the leaves

Yellowing on young leaves; reduction in sizeand failure to mature

Sulphur Aids chlorophyll synthesis and rootformation

Yellowing of leaves; stunting and earlymaturing

Cobalt Needed for nitrogen fixation andtherefore important for legumes


Types of Fertiliser

There are two types of fertilisers: organic (animal or vegetable in origin) or inorganic (chemical).

Organic fertilisers

• Blood and bone

A natural slow-release fertiliser, blood and bone is mild enough to use on all plants. It containsnitrogen and phosphorus, sometimes calcium and a very small amount of potassium.

• Animal manure

Animal manure is organic matter. All types contain plant nutrients but some are richer than others.Horse manure is fairly mild, cow manure is a little stronger, and pig and chicken manure are bothextremely strong. All fresh manures should be piled up and allowed to rot for at least a monthbefore use or you may kill the plants around which they are applied. Composting animal manureswill also kill any weed seeds that it may contain.

Inorganic fertilisers

• Complete plant foods

Complete plant foods all contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Most also contain calcium,magnesium and sulphur and the trace elements although some do not. Complete plant foods donot suit all types of plants as they may be too rich for some and too mild for others.

• Slow-release fertilisers

Many chemical fertilisers quickly release all their nutrients into the soil, giving the plants a suddenboost. However, rain or frequent watering soon washes the nutrients out of the soil, necessitatinganother dose of fertiliser. Slow-release fertilisers on the other hand, react with water andtemperature to exude a continuous supply of nutrients for up to a year. They are expensive but doprovide a constant food source. Dig in if possible.

• Superphosphate

‘Super’ provides plants with an instantly useable source of phosphorus and a hefty dose of calciumand sulphur as well. It is good for peas, beans, lupins and all other legumes. A little is good but alot can be toxic.

A quick glance at the fertiliser section of the local nursery demonstrates that there is a huge range ofspecialised and all-purpose fertilisers available for sale, both artificial and natural in origin. Be carefulwhen selecting commercial fertilisers. While many artificially (chemically) produced fertilisers mayprovide very precise levels of essential nutrients, they can damage small animal and microorganismpopulations. When necessary to purchase a commercial fertiliser, select from the range of natural ororganic fertilisers and follow the instructions for distribution precisely. If fertilisers are applied tooliberally, plant damage is likely to occur.

The safest and most general purpose fertiliser for the home gardener is a well-rotted compost. Ifcompost is made from a good range of organic materials, it will provide plants with all the nutrientsessential for healthy growth. It is difficult to provide too much compost to the garden as it is a slow-release fertiliser, releasing nutrients as it is broken down by small animals and microorganisms in the soil.

Compost is simple to apply and has the added bonus of acting as mulch, assisting with soil moistureretention and promoting microorganism activity in the soil. Simply mulch the area with compost 5cmthick and water in. Do not dig in.

41

Liquid fertiliser

A simple, cheap and safe alternative to compost is a ‘homemade’ liquid fertiliser. Made from animalmanure and/or blood and bone, this type of fertiliser is rich in nutrients, and presents little danger orharm to plants if well diluted.

YOU WILL NEED:

• animal manure or compost

• large drum or plastic garbage bin

• hessian bag

• water

• string

• long stick or broom handle

PROCEDURE

1 Fill bag with manure and/or compost

Fill the hessian bag with animal manure or compost or a mixture of both. Tie the neck of the bagtightly.

2 Fill the drum/bin

Fill the drum or garbage bin with water. Make sure the drum is clean. Any residue must be washedout as they might harm your plants later.

3 Suspend bag in the water

Lay the long stick across the top of the drum. Tie the bag of manure to the stick and suspend it inthe water.

4 Cover drum

Cover the top of the drum. This will keep insects and rubbish out of your brew. It will also keep thesmell in.

After a few weeks, your cheap liquid fertiliser is ready to use. Scoop some into a watering can anddilute it until it is the colour of weak tea.

Feed your plants regularly with this liquid fertiliser. Check with your planting guide to see which plantsneed the most food. It is best to apply the fertiliser with a watering can just after the garden has beenwatered or just after rain.


Appendix F

Plant

selection guide

The following charts give you information about some common fruit, vegetable, herb and nut varieties.Use the guidelines to make a list of those plants that can be grown in your garden.

Before you start, you need to know:

• what climate zone you live in

• how much sunlight your garden receives

• what type of soil you have in your garden

• how many weeks you have to grow your plants.

PROCEDURE:

• Read through the special conditions and disregard any plants, which definitely do not match yourgarden’s conditions. It is important to remember that soils can be improved with thoroughpreparation.

• Make a list of those fruit, vegetables, herbs and nut trees that could be grown in your garden.

Australian climate zones

Tropical

Australian climate zones

Humid sub-tropical

Dry sub tropical

Mediterranean

Temperate

Cool temperate

Semi-arid

Hot arid

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Zone 1: Tropical

Humid and warm to hot all year. Much more rain falls in summer than in the rest of the year with winterbeing dry or relatively dry and less humid. In the lowland tropics, night temperature rarely fall below15°C but overnight lows of 5°C have been recorded in Townsville. In highland tropical areas lightfrosts are possible and winter days may be cool and drizzly for long periods of time.

Zone 2: Humid subtropical

Humid with mild winters and hot summers. The warmest months are the wettest and annual rainfall ishigh. Near the coast frosts are light or unknown but further inland lows of –4°C can occur and in thevalleys of elevated areas, extremes of –10°C are possible, although extremely rare. Humidity isrelatively high year round, very high in summer.

Zone 3: Dry subtropical

Dry, mild winters with hot summers. Most rain falls in summer but annual rainfall is only moderate.Light, overnight frosts are common in winter with extremes of –9°C possible, but winter days aresunny and mild to warm. Humidity is generally low except during the wettest three months of the year.

Zone 4: Mediterranean

Cool to mild winters with hot, dry summers. Most of the year’s rain falls from mid-autumn to late winterbut the total annual rainfall is moderate at best. Frosts, if any are light and humidity in this zone isgenerally low. As in other zones, inland or elevated areas can be much colder than the coastal areas.Inland areas are usually drier as well.

Zone 5: Temperate

Cool winters with warm to hot summers. Annual rainfall is moderate to high and either evenly spreadthroughout the year or slightly higher in winter. In coastal temperate areas, frosts are light or unknownbut in elevated or inland parts, lows of –13°C, with or without snowfalls, are possible but rare. Winterdays are often grey. Humidity is moderate to high year-round, depending on rainfall.

Zone 6: Cool temperate

Cool to cold winters with mild to warm summers. Annual rainfall is moderate to high and either evenlyspread or high in winter. Light to moderate frosts are common and extremes of -20°C are possible.Winter days can remain cold, cloudy and damp for very long periods and snowfalls are relativelycommon. Humidity is moderate.

Zone 7: Semi-arid

Mild winters with hot, dry summers. Annual rainfall is moderate to low and may be heaviest in winteror in summer or be fairly evenly spread. Extended periods of drought occur periodically. Frosts arecommon but generally light although extremes of -10°C are possible. Snow may fall in the higherparts. Humidity is always low.

Zone 8: Hot arid

Mild, dry winters with hot, dry summers. Annual rainfall is very low and unpredictable and may fallmostly in summer or in winter. Humidity is always low. Light to moderate frosts are common withextreme lows of –10°C possible. Winter days are almost always sunny and mild to warm. Longdroughts are common.


Fruit selection guide

Growing your own fruit can be very rewarding. Although some trees may take a number of seasonsbefore they begin bearing fruit, the long term advantages of fruit trees are numerous. Many fruit treesare also very beautiful and will be an additional feature to any garden. Trees also provide valuableshade for children to play under. Consider planting a grape or passionfruit vine over a pergola tocreate a cool and shading environment.

Choosing the best site

Choose a site well away from larger trees with strong root systems. Preferably the site should beopen to full sun yet protected from strong winds. A gradual slope will prevent waterlogging duringheavy rains. Vine plants will require a trellis or frame for support. These are best running north-southso both sides get some sun each day.

Preparing the soil

Spend some time preparing the site for your tress before you actually plant. All fruit trees will benefitfrom a well prepared, mounded planting area with composting organic matter incorporated into thesoil. A thick layer of mulch will help to retain moisture.

When to plant

Planting seasons vary for different trees. Deciduous trees, such as peaches are best planted as bareroot trees in the winter to spring period. Citrus fruits can be planted out of pots ant time but the beststocks are available from autumn through to spring.

Do I need to cross-pollinate?

Many fruit trees are self-fertile and will bear fruit without the need from cross-pollination. Those whichare self-infertile need to be planted near a cross pollinator to get satisfactory fruit set. A crosspollinator is another specific variety of the same fruit that flowers at the same time. Self-infertile fruitsare apples, apricots, pears, most plums, kiwi fruit, avocado, and olives.

45

Midsummer tomidwinter dependingon variety

Fruiting season

Apple

Fruit

Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefer deep,well-drained soils and tolerate quite acid soils. Keepsoil moist throughout growing season. Provideplenty of organic matter. Apply high potassiumfertiliser in spring.

Gardening tips

Prefers zones 5, 6& 7 and coolerparts of 2 & 4

Mid to late summerApricot Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefer well-drained, limey soils or shallow, acid clay loams.Provide a nitrogen fertiliser in autumn.

Prefers zones 2, 3,4, 6 and 7.

Autumn, winter orspring depending on variety

Avocado Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefers well-drained soils. Water deeply, weekly in summer, lessoften in spring and autumn. Provide plenty oforganic matter. Apply complete plant food every sixweeks from late spring to late summer.

Prefers zones 1, 2,3, 4, 5 & 7

All year roundBanana Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefer well-drained, deep fertile soils. Keep soil moist but donot allow to be come waterlogged. Provide plenty oforganic matter. Mulch well if soil is sandy to improvewater retention.

Prefers zones 1, 2,3, 4 and 5

Late spring to earlyautumn depending on variety

Blueberry Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefer well-drained soil. Keep soil moist but do not allow tobecome waterlogged. Provide plenty of organicmatter and mulch well, particularly in autumn.

Can be grown inall zonesdepending onvariety

Mid to late springCherry Need a sunny position. Prefer well-drained, deepsoil and do not tolerate being waterlogged.Occasionally feed with a nitrogen fertiliser.

Prefers zones 5and 6.

Mid-summer to mid-spring

Custardapple

Need protection from wind. Prefers well-drainedsandy loam soil but will grow in well-structured clayloam as well. Keep soil consistently moist,particularly during fruit set and development.

Prefers zones 1, 2and 3.

Summer and autumn Fig Need a sunny, wind-protected position Prefers well-drained soil. Water well from mid-autumn to mid-spring. Mulch beneath and beyond the foliagecanopy with organic matter.

Can be grown inall zones exceptwarm parts of 2and cold parts of 6

April to AugustGrapefruit Need protection from wind Water frequently fromspring to the middle of autumn and less frequentlyduring winter. Provide plenty of organic matter inlate winter and again at midsummer.

Can be grown inall zones exceptzone 8.

Late autumn and winter

Kiwi fruit Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Watergenerously while the vine has leaves and lessfrequently during winter. Prefers well-drained soils.Provide a high nitrogen complete plant food in earlyspring and again during summer.

Prefers zone 5 butcan be grown inzones 2, 4 & 6

Late summer and autumn

Grape High humidity is not helpful Need protection fromwind. Suit a wide variety of soils but do best if welldrained. Water deeply but infrequently. Provideplenty of organic matter if the soil is poor.

Prefers zones 2, 4, 5 & 7 but willalso grow in zones6 & 8.

Climate zone


Autumn to spring

Fruiting season

Lemon

Fruit

Need protection from wind. Water frequently fromspring to the middle of autumn and less frequentlyduring winter. Provide plenty of organic matter inlate winter and again at midsummer.

Gardening tips

Prefers zones 2, 3, 4 and warmerparts of 5. If grownin zones 7 & 8,protection fromfrosts is essential.‘Meyer’ variety canbe grown in milderparts of zone 6

February to June Lime Need protection from wind. Water frequently fromspring to the middle of autumn and less frequentlyduring winter. Provide plenty of organic matter inlate winter and again at midsummer.

Can be grown inall zones exceptzone 8.

November to MarchLychee Prefers warm sunny position. Prefers a well-drained,fertile soil. Keep soil moist. Provide plenty of organicmatter and mulch well to assist soil retain moisture.

Prefers zones 1, 2 and 3.

Early autumn untilspring depending onvariety

Mandarin Need protection from wind. Water frequently fromspring to mid-autumn and less frequently duringwinter. Provide organic matter in late winter andagain at midsummer.

Prefers zones 2, 4,& 5. If grown inzones 3 & 7,protection fromfrosts is essential.

Mid-spring to autumndepending on climate

Mango Prefers an open sunny position, with protection fromstrong winds. Water in late spring, giving plenty oversummer, less during autumn and none during winterand first half of spring. Prefers well-drained soil. Donot feed until plants are well established and thenprovide a light ration of complete plant food two orthree times during summer.

Prefers zone 1, thewarm, northernparts of zone 2and frost-free partsof zone 7

Mid-spring to early summer

Mulberry Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefers well-drained soil but will tolerate a wide variety of soilconditions. If rainfall is irregular, water frequently. Itis not necessary to provide much organic matterunless soil conditions are very poor.

Can be grown inzones 2, 4, 5, 6, 7& 8

Late summer and autumn

Olive Prefers warm sunny position. Olives are able togrown in poor soil conditions therefore providingorganic matter is not necessary. If necessary, waterdeeply especially during winter but do not allow tobecome waterlogged.

Prefers zone 4 butwill grow in zones2, 5, 6 & 7

‘Navel’ oranges ripenin autumn and earlywinter. ‘Valencia’oranges ripen inspring and summer

Orange Need protection from wind. Water frequently duringthe warmer months and less frequently duringwinter. Provide organic matter in late winter andagain at midsummer.

Prefers zones 2, 4,5 and 7 but willgrow in zones 1, 3 & 8

Late spring to early autumn

Passionfruit Prefers warm sunny position. Prefers sandy soils,well enriched with organic matter. Keep soil moistonce flowers appear. Water frequently duringsummer and less frequently during autumn. Fromspring to early autumn, feed every 6 weeks with ahigh nitrogen fertiliser.

Prefers zone 2,coastal parts ofzone 4 and warmparts of zone 5.

Climate zone

47

Spring to late summer

Fruiting season

Pawpaw

Fruit

Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefers well-drained slightly acid soil. Water frequently from latespring to early autumn and less frequently duringwinter. Provide organic matter monthly from mid-spring to the end of summer.

Gardening tips

Prefers zones 1, 2, 3 and warmerparts of 4

Late spring to earlyautumn depending on variety

Peach andnectarine

Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefersfertile, well-drained soils, although is tolerate of mostsoil types. Keep soil moist, especially throughoutgrowing season. Mulch beneath and beyond thefoliage canopy with plenty of organic matter. Apply a high nitrogen fertiliser in autumn.

Prefers zones 2, 4, 5, 6 and 7

Midsummer tomidwinter dependingon variety

Pear Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefersdeep, well-drained, heavy loam soils enriched withorganic matter. Keep soil moist.

Can be grown inall zones exceptzones 1 and 8

All year round Pineapple Prefers warm sunny position. Prefers well-drainedsoil. Keep soil moist and mulch well to retainmoisture. Provide plenty of organic matter.

Prefers zones 1, 2,and 3.

Late spring andsummer dependingon variety

Plum Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Waterregularly once flowers appear. Keep moist at allother times. Mulch beneath and beyond the foliagecanopy with plenty of organic matter, avoiding thetrunk. Provide complete plant food at the same time,watering in well.

Prefer zones 5 and6 but will grow incooler parts ofzones 2, 4 and 7

Early to mid-summerRaspberry Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefers well-drained soil conditions. Keep soil consistently moistfrom early spring to autumn. Provide plenty oforganic matter and provide complete plant food inearly spring.

Prefer zones 5 and6 but will grow incoldest parts ofzone 4

All year round Rhubarb Need protection from wind. Can be grown in a widerange of soil types, providing they are well drained,but prefer deep fertile loams. Provide plenty oforganic matter. Keep soil consistently moist, as anystress will affect stalk quality.

Can be grown inall zones exceptzones 1 and 8

Summer and early autumn

Rockmelonandhoneydewmelon

Prefers warm sunny position. Prepare soilthoroughly. Prefer well-drained soil conditions. Keepmoist. Water lightly and frequently for best results,reducing watering when fruits are full formed. Mulchto maintain soil moisture.

Prefer zones 4, 7and 8 but will growin zones 2, 3, 5and warmers partsof 6

Spring, summer andautumn. May fruit inwinter in subtropicalareas

Strawberry Prefers warm sunny position. Prefers well-prepared,well-drained soil. Keep soil moist. Provide plenty oforganic matter. Apply a controlled-release, liquid orsoluble fertiliser in spring.

Suitable for all zones

Spring, summer andautumn. May fruit inwinter in subtropicalareas

Watermelon Prefers warm sunny position. Prefer lighter soils.Prepare well. Watermelons are not large feeders.Keep soil moist to prevent stress. Good watering 2–3 times per week with a good mulching toprevent soil dryness. Warm, sunny spot.


Climate zone


Vegetable selection guideNothing beats garden fresh vegetables and the good news is that you don’t need a lot of space to grow them.Many varieties of vegetables can be successfully grown in pots and containers.

Seeds or seedlings?Vegetables can be started from either seeds or seedlings. Seeds are far cheaper and there is a wider range ofvarieties available in seed packets than as seedlings. You can plant a few seeds now and save the rest for latersowings and most varieties can be planted directly where they are to grow. Pay particular attention to the packetdirections, especially the sowing depth and never allow the soil to dry out while the seeds are germinating.When the seedlings appear, thin them so that the spacing between them is correct.

Since seedlings are already several weeks old by the time they are planted, they will mature quicker than seeds.However, they must all be planted at once which may mean that there will be a surplus of the vegetable all atonce. Seedlings must be planted out within 24 hours or they will not progress as well.

Choosing the best siteSelect an open area that is free from trees and shrubs. Vegetables prefer soil that is friable, fertile and welldrained. It is preferably to have the vegetable plot in a position that receives daylong sunlight. If the land issloping, run the beds across rather than down to avoid washaways after heavy rain. Beds running north to south allow the sun to reach all the plants.

Preparing the soilPrepare the vegetable plot well and leave it to set for 1-2 weeks before planting. Enrich the soil with plenty oforganic matter. Remove all weeds and do not allow them to flourish as vegetables do not compete well withweeds.

When to plantIt is important to sow seeds at the right time and select suitable varieties for the season and climate. Read theseed packet carefully for directions.

6–10 8–12Beans(climbing)

Prefer a sunny position in well prepared, welldrained soils although will grow well in heaviersoils. Need trellising to support climbing plant. Sowin moist soil. Essential to shelter from strong winds.

Grow in allclimate zones

49

6–10

Germinationtime (days)

16–24

Time to mature (weeks)

Asparagus

Vegetable

Seedling/ crowns.

Prefer a sunny position in deep sandy loam. Provideplenty of organic matter. Keep soil moist and mulchwell to improve moisture retention.

Method of planting and gardening tips

Suits zones4,5,6 and 7

6–10 8–12Beans(French ordwarf)

Seed.

Prefer a sunny position in heavier soils and loams.Add plenty of organic matter to assist drainage.Essential to be sheltered from strong winds.

Grow in allclimate zones

7–10 10–12Beetroot Seed/seedling.

Prefer deep, well drained soils. If planting in heaviersoil, treat with large quantities of organic matter. Donot overcrowd as this restricts root size.

Grows in allclimate zones

6–10 18–20BroadBeans

Seed.

Tolerate many soil types but prefer well drainedclay-loam soil. Need shelter from strong winds. Maybe staked with string between stakes to supportheavily laden plant. Nipping out tops of stems afterflowering restricts leaf growth and directs nutrientsto developing pods.

Can be grownin all climatezones butprefers Z1, 3and 8.

6–10 16–20 Broccoli Seed/seedling.

Likes limed soil and plenty of organic matter.Enriched, well drained soil, towards alkaline. Bestgrown on a site that has not grown other crops(cabbage, cauliflower, turnips etc) for at least twoto three years. Rotation of crops helps reducelikelihood of soil-borne diseases. Sprinkler wateringis preferable to furrow watering as it has a morespread of moisture and lessens compacting of soil.

Prefers zones 5 & 6

6–10 16–28BrusselsSprouts

Seed/seedlings.

Prefer friable soil. Keep soil moist. Provide a liquidor soluble plant food every three weeks afterseedlings have been transplanted.

Can be grownin zones 2, 4 &7 but preferszones 5 & 6

6–10 44–46Cabbage Seed/seedling.

Will tolerate most soil types but prefer neutral toalkaline well drained loam. Provide plenty of organicmatter. Important to keep moist. The large broadleaves use a lot of water – mulching will assistretain moisture. As they are heavy feeders, nitrogen-rich, organic liquid fertiliser may be needed as plantmatures.

Grows in all zones

Climate zone

10–21 12–16Carrots Seed.

Prefer a deeply dug, well prepared, well drained,friable soil. Heavy clays or gravels impede healthygrowth. Do not overwater – let soil dry out betweenwaterings. Do not use excessive organic matter asroots will deform.

Grows in allzones

10–14 20–24 Capsicumand chillies

Seed/seedling.

Prefer looser, friable soil. Prepare soil well andinclude plenty of organic matter. Water by sprinklerrather than furrows to prevent compaction. Slow togerminate, slow growing. Enjoy full sun position andlong hot summers. Feed monthly with a lownitrogen fertiliser.

Suitable for allzones exceptcolder parts of Z6

6–8 8–12Cucumber Seed/seedling.

Easy to grow and tolerant of a wide range of soilconditions. Prepare well with organic matter. Waterfrequently, early in the morning (if sprinklers used),allowing leaves to dry quickly. Trellising will improveyield and keep fruit off the ground.

Grows in all zones


6–10 16–20Cauliflower Seed/seedling.

Prefer alkaline soil. Provide plenty of organic matter.Heat sensitive when heads form; cover with outerleaves to protect heads from sun. Prone to pestseg. cabbage moth (moths are attracted to whitecolour and so you can hang up white cloths toattract them). Shallow rooted. Water frequently.

Grows in allzones

12–20 20–24 Celery Seed/seedling.

Prefers rich, well prepared and well drained soil.Provide plenty of organic matter in heavy soils.Water frequently, especially in warm conditions anddo not allow to dry out. Approximately two to fourweeks before maturity the stalks can be ‘blanched’by mounding dirt around them (or by wrappingthem in paper, plastic pipe or terra cotta pipe). Thisgives a white, tender celery stalk at maturity. Needto be grown quickly to prevent bitterness.

Grows in allzones except 1, 3, 8 & colderparts of 7

10–15 14–16Eggplant Best from seedling.

Prefer rich, deep, well drained, well prepared soil.Provide plenty of organic matter. Water thoroughlybut infrequently. Mulch to maintain soil moisture.

Grows in allzones exceptcolder parts of 6

8–12 12–16Leeks Seed/seedling

Very adaptable to a wide variety of soil and climaticconditions. Heavy feeders so supply plenty oforganic matter. Need to grow quickly for a qualityproduct. Grow in trenches and fill in as the plantgrows to ‘blanch’ (see celery). Water frequently.

Grows in all zones


Time to mature (weeks)Vegetable

Method of planting and gardening tipsClimate zone

6–10 10–16Marrow Seed/seedling.Prefer deep friable loam but will tolerate other soilconditions. Protect from wind but ensure a sunnyposition. Water well, avoiding leaves and stems.Provide plenty of organic matter.


10–21 20–24Parsnip Seed.Will grow in a wide range of soil conditions but onlyif beds are well prepared. Best grown in light, welldrained soil. Do not overcrowd.

Grow in all zones

6–10 10–14Peas Seed.Prefers well drained soil conditions. Keep soil moistand free from competing weeds. Provide plenty oforganic matter.

Grow in all zones

20–30 15–20Potato Seed, potato eye.Grow well in heavy soils. Prepare well. Provideplenty of organic matter. Potatoes enjoy constantmoisture. Bank soil to ensure that tubers are buried.A useful crop to plant in a new bed.

Grows in all zones

6–10 16–20Pumpkin Seed/seedling.Prefer deep friable loam but will tolerate other soilconditions. Protect from wind but ensure a sunnyposition. Water fairly frequently, as water loss fromlarge leaves is considerable. Thoroughly water 3times per week. Keep water off crowns. Manyvarieties to choose from.


51

6–12 8–10 Lettuce Seed/seedling.

Prefer friable, well drained soil conditions. Provideplenty of organic matter. Keep moist. Thorough andregular watering is required, as much water is lostthrough the leaves. Need protection from the sun inthe hottest parts of the day. Mulch to assist the maint-enance of soil moisture. Protect from pests and birds.

Grows in all zones

2 1Mushrooms Mushroom spawn/ kit.If using a kit, just add water. Keep compost moistbut not sodden. Maintain constant temperature,preferably indoors. Pick at any stage. Discardcompost when no more mushrooms appear.

Grow in all zones

6–12 26–32Onions Seed/seedling.Prefers well drained sandy loam but will grow wellin a wide variety of soil conditions. Provide plenty oforganic matter. Protect from strong winds. Keepmoist and well weeded, as onions will not competefavourably with weeds. Plant the correct variety forthe season and climate.

Grow in all zones




4–6 3–4Radish Seed.Will grow in extremely wide range of soil conditions.Provide plenty of organic matter. Water frequentlyto keep moist as they have very shallow rootsystems. Grow well in pots.

Grows in all zones

6–10 16–20Tomato Seed/seedling.Tolerant of a wide range of soil conditions. Provideplenty of organic matter. Prepare soil well. Very deeprooted, requires thorough, infrequent water (soak).Should be staked when planted to prevent rootdisturbance later. As plant grows, pinch out sidegrowth, allowing one or two strong leaders to develop.

Grows in all zones

N/A 16–20Shallot Bulb.Plant bulbs into well drained, reasonably fertile soil.Keep soil moist while the plant is growing but stopwatering when the plant is fully mature and theleaves are beginning to yellow. Harvest when thetops of the plants die back.

Grows in all zones


7–10 8–12Silver beet Seed/seedling.Plant in light, well drained soils. Provide plenty oforganic matter. Water frequently as they havesignificant losses through their leaves.

Grows in all zones

7–10 8–12Spinach Seed/seedling.

Prefer well prepared, well drained soils. Provideplenty of organic matter. As with other green leafyvegetables, keep moist. Best picked and eaten, not stored.

Prefers zones 5& 6 but can begrown in coolerparts of 2,4 & 7

6–10 12–14Squash Seed.

As for pumpkin. Harvest crop regularly while small.The quality of the product will decrease with age/size.

Grows in all zones

4–7 16–24Swede Seed.

Wide range of soil conditions suitable. Must be keptmoist. For best results encourage quick growth asthis prevents the development of woody fibres.

Prefers zones 5 & 6 andcooler parts of 2, 4 & 7

6–10 12–16Sweet corn Seed/seedling.

Easy to grow in a wide range of soil conditionsproviding drainage is good. Include plenty of organicmatter to feed plants and assist drainage. Waterregularly, keeping moist, promoting rapid, stronggrowth. Harvest as soon as the crop matures.

Grows in allzones exceptcolder parts of zone 6

N/A 18–20Sweetpotato

Cutting/ shoot from tuber.

Grow well in heavy soils. Keep soil moist. If plantedinto fertile soil, no extra feeding is needed. Keep freefrom weeds. Particularly when plants are young.

Grows in allzones except 6

4–7 12–14Turnip Seed.Wide range of soil conditions suitable. Prepare soil well.Keep moist. For best results, encourage quick growthas this prevents the development of woody fibres.

Prefers zones 5 & 6 andcooler parts of 2, 4 & 7

6–10 8–14Zucchini Seed/seedling.

Provide plenty of organic matter. Keep free of weedsand water well, avoiding the leaves and stems.Harvest when the fruits are 10cm long. Regularpicking prolongs production.





53

Herb Selection Guide

Herbs are a valuable addition to any garden and most varieties can be grown successfully in pots andcontainers if space is a concern. They can also be grown inside, on a window ledge that gets somesun. Apart from their culinary appeal, herbs also have many other uses such as in medicines andcosmetics and in crafts.

Seeds, seedlings oroffsets of an existingplant

Method of planting

Aloe Vera

Herb

Full sun. Prefers well drained, sandy soils. Watersparingly and do not allow soil to become sodden. Ifgrown in a pot, supply a slow release fertiliser onceeach spring.

Gardening tips

Prefers zones 1–4but can be grownin all zones


Basil Seed/seedling. Full sun except in hot climateswhere partial shade is preferred. Prefers rich, moist,well drained soils. Provide plenty of organic matter.



Bay tree Seedling. Full sun except in hot climates where partialshade is preferred. Prefers average, well drained soilconditions. Water generously from mid-autumn tomid-spring. In summer, bays tolerate drier conditionsand watering should be reduced. Mulch beneath andbeyond the foliage canopy with plenty of organicmatter. Provide a ration of complete plant food.

Prefers zone 4 butwill grow in zones2, 5, 6 and 7


Chives Seed/seedling. Prefers full sun but will toleratepartial shade in hot climates. Prefers well drainedsoil conditions. Keep soil moist. Replant clumps ifpots become overcrowded.



Coriander Seed/seedling. Prefers full sun but will toleratepartial shade in hot climates. Prefers well drainedsoil conditions. Keep soil evenly moist and do notallow weeds to compete with the plants. Do notprovide excessive amounts of organic matter as toomuch nitrogen lessens the flavour.


Seed/seedlingDill Full sun except in hot climates where partial shadeis preferred. Protect from strong winds. Prefersfertile, moist, well drained soil conditions. Keepmoist. If soil is fertile, it is not necessary to providemuch organic matter but do sprinkle lime around theplants and lightly work in.

Suitable for allzones except 8

Cloves Garlic Full sun. Prefers well drained soils. Keep newlyplanted cloves moist but not wet during autumn andwinter. If rain is infrequently, water weekly. Graduallyreduce watering in spring, as garlic needs a hot, drysummer.

Suitable to grow in all zones exceptzones 1 and 3

RhizomesGinger Full sun except in hot climates where partial shadeis preferred. Prefers rich, well drained soil. Needsplenty of space to grow. Keep moist whenever theplant has leaves. If the plant dies back during winter,keep dry. Provide plenty of organic matter duringspring and summer.

Suitable to grow inzones 1, 2, 3, 4and 8

Seed/seedlingLemonbalm

Full sun or partial shade. Prefers fertile, well drainedsoil. Keep moist. Provide plenty of organic matterand give some complete plant food during spring.

Suitable for allzones except zone 1

Climate zone


Seed/ division ofexisting clumps

Method of planting

Lemongrass

Herb

Full sun except in hot climates where partial shadeis preferred. Prefers well drained, fertile soil. Provideplenty of organic matter. Water regularly all yearround, especially from mid-spring to late summer.Provide a high nitrogen plant food occasionally

Gardening tips

Prefers zones 1–4but can be grownanywhere that isfrost–free

Seed/seedling inearly spring.

Marjoramandoregano

Full sun. Prefers reasonably fertile, well drained soil.Water frequently in early spring and less frequentlyas summer approaches. In summer, water only toprevent wilting. Provide a ration of complete plantfood.


Seed/seedlingMint Full sun or partial shade. Prefers moderately rich,well mulched soil. Water frequently. Avoid providingexcessive amounts of organic matter as thispromotes rust diseases.


Seed/seedlingNasturtium Full sun except in hot climates where partial shadeis preferred. Prefers poor, sandy or gravelly soils.Water only during dry periods and do not feed.


Seed/seedlingParsley Full sun or partial shade. Prefers moderately fertile,well drained soils. Keep soil moist. Provide a rationof complete plant food once in spring.


Seed/seedlingRocket Full sun or partial shade. Prefers fertile, well drainedsoil. Keep moist as dryness gives a bitter taste.Feed with a high nitrogen soluble fertiliser every two weeks.


SeedlingRosemary Full sun. Prefers fertile, well drained soil. Waterfrequently during winter and less frequently duringsummer. No feeding is necessary.

Prefers zone 4 butwill grow in zones5, 6, 7, 8 andcooler parts ofzone 2

Seed/seedlingSage Full sun. Protect from strong winds. Prefersmoderately fertile, well drained soils. Water youngplants frequently until established and then reducewatering. Avoid providing excessive organic matteras sage becomes rank and untidy if conditions aretoo good.

Suitable for zones2, 4, 5, 6 and 7

Seed/seedlingTarragon Full sun or partial shade. Prefers well drained, sandysoil. Water deeply regularly but avoid sodden soil.Provide some organic matter and a light ration ofcomplete plant food in early spring.

Prefers zones 4, 5,6, and 7 but willgrow in zones 2and 8

Seed/seedlingThyme Full sun. Prefers well drained, sandy soil. Bestsuited to dryish soils but not long periods of totaldryness. Feeding is not necessary.

Suitable for allzones except 1, 3,8 and warm, humidparts of 2

Rhizome Tumeric Full sun except in hot climates where partial shadeis preferred. Prefers fertile, well drained soil withplenty of organic matter. When the plant has leaves,keep well watered. If it dies back during winter, keep dry.

Prefers zones 1and 2 but will growin zones 3 and 4

Climate zone

55

Nut Tree Selection Guide

Although some nut trees take several years to produce a crop, they can be successfully grown in thehome or school garden. Nut trees can be quite ornamental and will also provide excellent shade onceestablished.

Some varieties of nuts require cross–pollination for the fruit to set. These include the almond, pecanand walnut trees. It is also important to select the right variety for your climate.

Late summer andearly autumn

Fruiting season

Almond

Nut

Prefers warm sunny position Prefers fertile, welldrained soils, although is tolerate of most soil types.Keep soil moist, especially throughout growingseason. Mulch beneath and beyond the foliagecanopy with plenty of organic matter. Apply a highnitrogen fertiliser in autumn.

Gardening tips

Prefers zones 4, 5and 7

AutumnCashew Prefers warm sunny position. Prefer well drained,light textured, sandy soils. Provide nitrogen andphosphorous fertilisers if required. Water frequently,particularly if rainfall is irregular.

Prefers zones 1, 2and 3

AutumnChestnut Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefersdeep, fertile, moisture-retentive well drained soil.Keep soil moist, mulch well to improve moistureretention.

Prefers zones 4, 5,6 and 7

Late summer andearly autumn

Hazelnut Prefers warm sunny position. Prefers fertile, welldrained soils, although is tolerant of most soil types.Keep soil moist, especially throughout growingseason. Mulch beneath and beyond the foliagecanopy with plenty of organic matter. Apply a highnitrogen fertiliser in autumn.

Prefers zones 3, 4,5, 6 and 7

Late autumn andwinter

Macadamia Prefers a sunny, frost free position free from winds.Prefer deep, fertile, well drained soil. Keep soilmoist, mulch well to improve moisture retention.

Prefers zones 2and 3

AutumnPecan Prefers warm sunny position. Prefers deep, welldrained soil. Water frequently, particularly duringsummer.


AutumnPistachio Prefers warm sunny position. Prefer deep, welldrained soil but will also thrive in poorer soilsprovided they are well drained. Water frequently butavoid damp or waterlogged conditions.


AutumnWalnut Need a sunny, wind-protected position. Prefersdeep, fertile, moisture-retentive well drained soil.Keep soil moist, mulch well to improve moistureretention.


Climate zone


Appendix G

Vegetable

planting calendar

Asparagus

Beans (climbing) Z2 Z2 Z2

Beetroot

Broad beans Z2

Broccoli Z2 Z2

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage Z2 Z2

Capsicum Z1 Z1 Z1

Carrots

Cauliflower

Celery Z2 Z2

Chillies Z1 Z1 Z1

Chinese cabbage

Cucumber Z1 Z1 Z1

Eggplant Z1 Z1 Z1 Z1 Z1

Herbs

Lettuce

Melons Z1

Onions

Peas

Potato (tuber)

Pumpkin

Radish

Rhubarb Z2 Z2 Z2 Z2 Z2

Shallots

Silver beet

Spinach

Spring onions

Squash

Sweet corn Z1 Z1 Z1 Z1

Tomatoes

Zucchini

Key: plant in either zone plant in zone 1

Plant Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Z1 plant in zone 2Z2

1 Planting Calendar for tropical zones (zones 1 and 2)

57

Asparagus

Beans (climbing)

Beetroot

Broad beans

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Capsicum

Carrots

Cauliflower

Celery

Chillies

Chinese cabbage

Cucumber

Eggplant

Herbs

Lettuce

Melons

Onions

Peas

Potato (tuber)

Pumpkin

Radish

Rhubarb

Shallots

Silver beet

Spinach

Spring onions

Squash

Sweet corn

Tomatoes

Zucchini

Key: plant in temperate zone


2 Planting Calendar for temperate zones (zones 3, 4, 7 and 8)


Asparagus

Beans (climbing)

Beetroot

Broad beans

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Capsicum

Carrots

Cauliflower

Celery

Chillies

Chinese cabbage

Cucumber

Eggplant

Herbs

Lettuce

Melons

Onions

Peas

Potato (tuber)

Pumpkin

Radish

Rhubarb

Shallots

Silver beet

Spinach

Spring onions

Squash

Sweet corn

Tomatoes

Zucchini

Key: plant in cool zone


3 Planting Calendar for cool zones (zones 5 and 6)

59

Appendix H

Common garden

pests and diseases

Common garden pests

Slugs and snails

Slugs and snails are soft-bodied pests with the snail having a hard shell for protection. When theymove along, they leave a shiny mucus trail. Slugs and snails are mostly night eaters and are mostactive during spring and autumn. They may be slow moving but they can quickly ruin a newly plantedgarden by completely eating your seedlings. Snails and slugs love leafy vegetables.

Control

• Remove them by hand – look in their favourite spots.

• Clean up any hiding places such as under bricks.

• Hire a friendly duck after the plants are a few weeks old.

• Make a snail trap – a shallow dish of water with a teaspoon of dry yeast mixed in. The snails crawlin and drown.

White butterfly

The white butterfly can be seen flitting around most gardens. It is creamy in colour with one or twoblack dots on its forewing. The butterflies you see are probably busy laying eggs which hatch intocaterpillars. These caterpillars are the pest that do the damage. They grow up to 30mm long, are adull green colour and have yellow lines on their body. These caterpillars love the leaves of green leafyvegetables and will leave only the stem behind if they are allowed to stay.

Control

• Look for the yellowish eggs on the underside of leaves and remove the infested leaves.

• A torchlight hunt for caterpillars can be effective. Any caterpillar’s food should be removed.

Aphids

Aphids are tiny creatures 1–2mm long. They are soft bodied and their colour can be from green toblack. Aphids are present in most gardens but are only a problem when they are in large numbers. Ifthey are on your plants in large numbers, they will cause the leaves to twist and curl.

Control

• Aphids can be hosed off plants but take care with small seedlings.

• Soapy water mixed with white oil is a non-toxic control. Spray over affected areas.

• On smaller plants, remove and destroy by hand.

• Encourage natural predators such as ladybirds and praying mantis.

Cabbage moth

The cabbage moth doesn’t damage plants directly. It is largely a night flier and is dull brown in colourwith a wingspan of about 10mm. It is a small caterpillar, which can quickly destroy a green leafy crop.The caterpillars only grow to about 10mm and are a pale green colour. The eggs of the cabbage moth


are yellow and can be found on the underside of leaves. When the caterpillars eat the leaves theydon’t eat right through, making thin patches which you can see through.

Control

• Remove any leaves on which you find eggs and look carefully and closely for caterpillars.

Cutworm

Cutworms are fat caterpillars which grow up to 50mm long. They have many colours from creamybrown to very dark grey. They can be easily recognised by the way they quickly curl up into a flat curlwhen they are disturbed. Cutworms love young soft plants and they get their names from chewingthrough stems at the ground level. Cutworms like to eat green leafy vegetables as well as tomatoes,corn and beans.

Control

• Cutworms hide under mulch during the day so can be hard to find. Torch hunts at night andremoving by hand is the best defence.

• Weed control keeps populations low.

Earwig

Earwigs are small brown insects about 20mm long with small pincer-like hooks at the tail end of thebody. Earwigs hide in cool, damp, dark places during the day and feed largely at night. Earwigs loveto eat soft new shoots and flower buds. On larger leaves, they tend to eat around the edges.

Control

• The best way to control earwigs is with traps. There is a range of traps that can be made:

• Lay short (30cm) hollow sticks on the garden. Earwigs like to crawl into small dark places. Collectup the sticks every day. Remove carefully from the garden, take out earwigs and destroy.

• Screwed up newspaper in a pot laid on its side produces similar results for the same reasons.

• Place saucers or flat dishes of linseed oil around the garden at night. Earwigs are attracted to thelinseed oil and will crawl in and drown. Do not put traps out in the rain as the water will fill the dishand waste the linseed oil.

Looper

Loopers are the caterpillars of a range of moths. They are named loopers because of the way theymove. Loopers grow up to 40mm and feed on the underside of leaves. They create a window effectby not eating right through the leaf. Eggs are laid singly on the underside of leaves. Dark browndroppings can be found on the leaves. Loopers like tomatoes and leafy vegetables.

Control

• Sharp eyes are the best defence. If you find symptoms of their presence search the underside ofleaves for caterpillars and eggs. Remove leaves with eggs. Remove and destroy caterpillars.

Fruit flies

Fruit flies attach many fruits and vegetables. Their eggs are laid into the fruit as it ripens and hatchsoon into maggots. Fruit fly attacks start in the spring, becoming worse as numbers build up duringthe summer.

Control

• Do not leave fruit on the ground. Collect fruit as it falls and seal it in a plastic bag left in the sun.

• Control is difficult to achieve without spraying.

61

Leaf miners

The larvae of various moths, flies, wasps and beetles tunnel inside the leaves of plants, leaving narrowtwisting trails. Citrus plants are often affected.

Control

• If damage is minor, remove affected leaves and place them in the rubbish.

• A weak solution of white oil may be effective against the citrus leaf miner.

Mealy bugs

These small, oval insects are covered in mealy wax threads. They congregate on the underside ofleaves, in leaf joints and crevices and on roots. They may cause severe wilting on soft young shoots.

Control

• Encourage natural predators such as ladybirds, wasps and birds.

• Chemical control may be necessary.

Common Plant Diseases

Plant diseases are caused by fungi, bacteria or viruses and may be spread by insects, by sporesfloating through the air, in the soil or in debris. Gardening tools can also carry diseases from one plantto another. For this reason it is important to practice good hygiene in the gardening. Use top qualitypotting mix, scrub all used pots and seedling trays, clean compost containers and remove plant debris.

A healthy, well-fed plant, in a sunny, open position with good drainage and air circulation will alwayshave a greater resistance to disease than those stressed by poor growing conditions or lack of water.

Collar rot of citrus plants

Collar rot usually occurs on the trunk close to the ground level, causing bark to flake and wood to rot.Lemon trees are most susceptible, but all citrus can be affected.

Control

• Cut away damaged bark to expose healthy bark and clean wood.

• Keep base of tree well clear of organic matter which will encourage rotting.

Powdery mildew

The powdery mildew are a group of fungi that coat leaves, young shoots, flowers and fruits with aconspicuous white or pale grey, ash-like film. It is more prevalent in warm, humid weather and spreadsrapidly from plant to plant by wind.

Control

• Grow mildew-resistant varieties where possible.

• Remove and destroy affected foliage.

• Avoid overcrowding and overhead watering.

Sooty mould

This dark fungal growth forms on the sticky secretions (called honeydew) produced by sap-suckinginsects. It causes unsightly black mould to appear on the leaves and stems.

Control• Remove the primary infection, such as the aphids, and the mould will disappear.

• Hose the plant with a strong spray to assist in the clean up.


References

This resource includes information from:

Swane, V. Gregory’s Australian Gardening. 2nd Edition. Gregory’s Publishing Company, 1993.

Burnie, G. Gardening – a commonsense guide. 3rd Edition. Murdock Books, 2001.

Knight, T. Earthworks: an adventure in gardening for teachers and children. Health DevelopmentFoundation, 1993

We would like to acknowledge and thank these authors.

creating an edible school garden

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