creating premium hair products the art of pur hair...
TRANSCRIPT
Creating Premium Hair Products
The Art of PUR HAIR ColourTechnical Guide
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Content
Welcome to the world of PUR HAIR colour
Why PUR HAIR colour?
The perfect formula
Ingredients
Developer
The Mixture
Grey Coverage
Untreated Hair
Colored Hair
Coloursystem
Reflections
Workplan
Colour Circle
Notes
4
5
6
7
8
9
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11 - 14
15 - 21
22
23 - 35
36
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38 - 39
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The Formula is based on a combination of valuable ingredients, which ensure perfect, stable and bright results, while you create long lasted colours considering the structure of customer´s hair.
PUR HAIR colour is a balanced combination of valuable ingredients and a result of an ex-actly working process. This versatile, reliable und professional product can satisfy every Hair Salon relating to reliability, customer´s satisfaction and profit.
The following technical guide will provide you with all needed information, which promise best results in coloration. We show up a “step-by-Step” workplan to ensure a pleasant hand-ling with PUR HAIR colour.
Welcome to the world of PUR HAIR colour
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What expects the hairdresser of a good coloration system?
• Best gray coverage
• Long lasting colour
• Healthy Hair
• Brilliant Shine
• Naturally colours
• High quality colour
• Exclusive for professionals
• Easy application
A combination of new generation colour sub-
stances, which promise a reliable and steady
coloration process.
The color system provides solutions in:
• Protection of the hair structure
• Steady results
• Complete grey coverage
• Brilliant and long lasting colors
• Wide range
Why PUR HAIR colour?
Without PPD, Resorcine and Parabene
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PUR HAIR colour - The perfect formula
Natural extracts determine 90% of
PUR HAIR colour.
• These botanical extracts, protect the hair
and leave a stained, shiny and soft result.
• A chemically reduced formula and the usa-
ge of natural ingredients guarantee a gent-
le colour series.
Natural Extract Technology, a complex
from selected substances, which protects the
hair and leaves a brilliant hair.
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PUR HAIR colour - Ingredients
• Ammonia is the alkali substance in PUR HAIR colour
• Ammonia opens the hair´s structure and allows the pigment to treat the hair
• Ammonia takes out oxygen of the peroxide which oxidizes the pigment
• Ammonia in combination with oxygen activates the coloration process
• Ammonia evaporates at the end of the process
Opens hair structure
Ammonia takes out oxygen of the
peroxide, which oxidizes the pigment
Ammonia + Oxygen = Coloration
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Mixture Volume ResultPUR HAIR colour 1:1
PUR HAIR colour 1:1
PUR HAIR colour 1:1
PUR HAIR colour 1:1
PUR HAIR colour 1:2
10 Vol. (3%)
20 Vol. (6%)
30 Vol. (9%)
40 Vol. (12%)
40 Vol. (12%)
Tone in tone
1 tone brighter
2 tones brighter
2-3 tones brighter
4 and more tones
PUR HAIR colour - Developer
PUR HAIR developer is enriched with waxes. Those protect the structure of the hair while
the chemical process. PUR HAIR developer contains high quality stabilizers, which promi-
se long lasting color results.
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PUR HAIR colour - The Mixture
Developer´s main task:
• To open the hair structure. The
alkali pH Value of ammonia
opens the hair structure.
PUR HAIR colour(60ml) 1 part
a) Coloring substancesb) Protective formula
c) Ammonia
Ammoniaopens thehair cuticle
Creme development(60ml) 1 part
a) Supporting waxesb) Oxygen
Coloration
Ammoniaactivates the
oxidation process
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1. Step: Choose target colour carefully
2. Step: Determine natural colour carefully
3. Step: Determine how many shades you´re away from target color
4. Step: Apply on roots. Exposure time 35 Minutes
PUR HAIR colour - Grey Coverage
Natural color and
reflexes
50% natural colour
Reflecion
50% fashion colour
Ash, irise, mahogany, red,
copper, gold, beige, violet
Easy and effective Mixture
+
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On grey hair the chosen colour will be the target colour.
It´s a different fact on untreated hair. Why?
Was has to be decide in advance?
PUR HAIR colour - Untreated Hair
• Colour target
• Hairs´ natural tone
• Hairs´ condition
• Hair contains natural colour pigments
• It has to be prepared to get the chosen target colour
• It has to prepared to get an even result
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PUR HAIR colour - Untreated Hair
Treatment possibilities of untreated hair
• Coloration: Tone in Tone or even darker
• Lighten up one, two or three tones
• Lighten up four or more tones
• Lighten up five or more tones
Coloration tone in tone or even darker
Step 1: Choose target color carefully
Step 2: Determine natural color carefully
Step 3: Choose the right developer
Step 4: Apply on roots. Exposure time 35 Minutes
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Lighten up one, two or three tones
Step 1: Use the colour chart to choose the target colour
Step 2: Determine natural colour carefully
Step 3: Determine colour on the roots and choose the right developer
Step 4: Apply on length and ends; mixing ratio 1:1; about 10 to 15 minutes
Step 5: Apply on roots. Exposure time 45-50 minutes
Attention: The color´s level on the length end ends will be 1 tone brighter than on the roots.
PUR HAIR colour - Untreated Hair
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Lighten up four tones (natural tone 6.0)
There are two processes needed to lighten up untreated hair for four tones.
Step 1: Determine target color
Step 2: Lighten up lengths and ends with PUR HAIR bleaching up to level 9.0
Step 3: To equalize a yellow touch use either PUR HAIR sensitive 9.2 or PUR HAIR pastel
Clear mixing ratio 1:2 with 3% (10 Vol.), exposure time 10-25 Minutes
PUR HAIR colour - Untreated Hair
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Application on colored hair
PUR HAIR colour - Colored Hair
• Lighten up the current colour
• Change the color reflexes
• Darken the coloration
Lighten up the current color
• One color can´t light up a second
chemical color
• To reach a brighter result you have
to weaken the current coloration
• Bleaching
Change reflections
• To intense existing reflections, use more color directly on the hair
• To change existing reflections, from cold to warm or the other way around, hair has
to be cleaned respectively bleached to weaken the chemical color pigments.
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PUR HAIR colour - Colored Hair
Case Bleaching
to dark colour
Time Application
unwanted reflections
Lighten up 1-2 tones
Lighten up 3, 4 or more tones
Bleaching with bleaching powder 10 gr. + Creme developer 10 Vol. 20 gr. + Shampoo 10 gr.
Bleaching powder + Creme developer 10 Vol. or 20 Vol.1:30
Bleaching powder + Creme developer 30 Vol.
5-10 Minutes
15-30 Minutes
20-30 Minutes
like shampoo
Applying to the tips, lengths and approach
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PUR HAIR colour - Colored Hair
Darker
• To reach a darker target colour (from 2 tones to even darker) the current coloration
has to be balanced with a re-pigmentation
• A re-pigmentation returns colour pigments, which get lost through environmental
influences chemical damages
How does a re-pigmentation work?
Step 1: Determine target colour
Step 2: Determine required level of re-pigmentation; strong re-pigmentation
Reconstruction of the coloration: Medium re-pigmentation
Cover the coloration: light re-pigmentation
Glace the coloration
Step 3: For a re-pigmentation use a colour one tone brighter than the target coloration
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Strong – colour reconstruction
• Before applying the target colour, re-pigmentation the hair
Medium – refreshment of the coloration
• After applying the target colour on the roots, re-pigment the lengths end ends
Light – colour balancing
• Before end of process knead the colour in lengths end ends for 5 minutes
PUR HAIR colour - Colored Hair
Darken colored hair
Strong refreshing
Step 1 Re-pigmentation: Apply the chosen colour for 15 minutes
Step 2 Coloration: Apply the chosen target colour for 30 minutes
Step 3 Balancing of lenght: Before end of process knead the roots, the lengths and
the ends (no more water) for 5-10 Minutes
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Darken colored hair
Step 1 : Apply the chosen colour on the roots, choose the right developer 1,9%(6
Vol.) oder 3%(10 Vol.). Exposure time 10 minutes. Don´t rinse off.
Step 2 Re-pigmentation: Apply the colour, chosen from the re-pigmentation chart
(page 21) onto the lengths and ends for 10 minutes. Don´t rinse off.
Step 3: Apply the chosen target colour with PUR HAIR Developer onto the lengths
and ends. The exposure time depends from the chosen developer.
PUR HAIR colour - Colored Hair
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Darken colored hair
Step1 Re-pigmentation: Apply the chosen color for 15 minutes
Step 2 Coloration: Apply the chosen targetcolor for 30 minutes
Step 3 Glaze: before end of coloration process massage the roots, lengths and ends
(no more water) for 5-10 minutes
PUR HAIR colour - Colored Hair
Reconstruction – strong
Re-Pigment the hair before applying the target color.
Color Refreshing – medium
Re-Pigment the lengths and ends, afterwards apply the target color onto the roots
Glazing – light
Glaze before end of processing time; massage the hair for 5-10 minutes
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PUR HAIR colour - Colored Hair
Re-pigmentation table
Target colour Re-pigmentation
von 1.0 - Black bis 4.0 - Medium Brown
5.0 - Light Brown
6.0 - Dark Blonde
7.0 - Blonde
8.0 - Light Blonde
9.0 - Very Light Blonde
4.45 5.3 5.34 5.4 5.4
6.3 6.34 6.4 6.46
7.3 7.34 7.4 7.64
8.3 8.33 8.4 8.4
9.3 9.33 7.34 9.4
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PUR HAIR colour - Coloursystem
The first number indicates the natural shade
1 - Black
2 - Dark Dark Brown
3 - Dark Brown
4 - Brown
5 - Light Brown
6 - Dark Blonde
7 - Blonde
8 - Light Blonde
9 - Light Light Blonde
10 - Extra Light Blonde
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
The second number indicates the dominant nuances 35%The third number indicates the weaker nuances 15%
1 - Ash
2 - Violet
3 - Gold
4 - Copper
5 - Mahogany
6 - Red
7 - Brown
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
Dark Blonde
50%
6.75
Brown
35%
Mahogany
15%
How to read a PUR HAIR shade:
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The cool series:
The cool PUR HAIR color series contains following shades:
Natural, Ash, Violet, Beige, Blue Black
PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
Natural:
Mainly blue pigments, 100% grey coverage,
perfectly suitable for natural colors
Usage: separately or intermix
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
Ash (1):
Mainly grey/green pigments;
perfectly suitable to counteract a red/orange movement.
100% grey coverage
Violet (2):
Mainly green/gold pigment;
perfectly suitable to counteract a red/orange movement.
100% grey coverage
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
Blue Black (8):
Mainly blue pigments;
perfectly suitable for black colors with blue reflections
Beige (7):
Mainly yellow/green pigments;
perfectly suitable natural beige effects,
100% grey coverage
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
The warm series:
The warm PUR HAIR color series contains following shades:
Gold, Nature Brown, Mahogany, Red, Copper, Copper Gold
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
Gold (3):
Mainly yellow pigments,
perfectly suitable for natural gold reflections
Mahogany Gold (53):
Mainly mahogany/yellow pigments;
perfectly suitable for warm mahogany reflections.
100% grey coverage
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
Gold Copper (34):
Mainly yellow/copper pigments;
perfectly suitable for golden copper reflections;
100% grey coverage
Gold Mahogany (35):
Mainly red/violet pigments;
perfectly suitable for golden mahogany reflections;
100% Grey Coverage
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
Mahogany (5):
Mainly red/violet pigments;
perfectly suitable for mahogany reflections;
100% grey coverage
Copper Mahogany (45):
Mainly orange/mahogany pigments;
perfectly suitable for copper reflections.
100% grey coverage
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
Copper (4):
Mainly red/orange pigments
Perfectly suitable for lively copper reflections.
100% grey coverage
Mahogany Violet (56):
Mainly red pigments;
perfectly suitable for lively red/golden reflections.
100% grey coverage
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
Violet Copper (64):
Mainly orange/red pigments.
Perfectly suitable for lively copper/red reflections.
100% grey coverage
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
High Lift:
Lighten up to 4 tones.
For 1/2 or 1 tone more, add booster 000.
High Lift:
It´s a booster without pigments. Developed to work together with PUR HAIR Highlift.
Mix in equal amounts with color to lighten up 1/2 or 1 tone.
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PUR HAIR colour - Reflections
Mixtones:
Mixtones are special, higher intense colours.
011 Ash: emphasize ash tones
and counteract red
028 Petrol: matty colour finish
043 Copper Gold: emphasize
Copper- and goldtones
045 Copper Mahogany: emphasize
copper- and redtones
065 Pink: emphasize violet and irisé
081 Silver: counteract yellow
Anwendung: 15ml to 30ml of the mixtone; depend of the desired color
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Preparation and Application
• Divide the the hair into a cross hair crest.
• Mixing Ratio 1:1 in a non-metallic bowl. E.g. 6.0(30 grams) + 30 Grams
PUR HAIR developer 6% (20 Vol). Use a libra.
• Mix the paste carefully
• Apply the color beginning from the roots
• After process time (35-45 minutes without using heat)
• Emulsify with a little warm water, rinse off and clean with PUR HAIR
moisture Shampoo
• Once the process is done, neutralize with PUR HAIR chemical Balancer
PUR HAIR colour - Workplan
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9.65
9.3610.38
10.9
6
8.96
8.38
12.1
2
PUR HAIR colour - Colour Circle
38 Creating Premium Hair Products
PUR HAIR colour - Notes
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PUR HAIR colour - Notes
Creating Premium Hair Products
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