croatia (in english)

7/30/2019 Croatia (in english)

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Although Croatia is not a large country, it is a land that is Mediterranean, Central European,mountainous and at, coastal and continental. It can there ore be sa ely said that Croatia ischaracterised by a diversity and wealth o nature seen in much larger European countries; thatis to say, within a relatively small area are landscapes that otherwise one would have to seek inlarger areas o Europe, and indeed the world. Tis is why Croatia ranks as one o the top veEuropean countries with regard to biodiversity, with some parts being amongst the worlds rich-est such areas.Croatia has a richly indented wooded shore line with numerous islands, as in the Southern Seas,preserved old Mediterranean towns with stone-built houses and narrow streets, as in Italy, butalso green coastal meadows with dry stone walls that seem as though they have been transported

rom Ireland. Te mountainous areas abound with wide expanses o woods and orests, as inScandinavia, romantic lakes, ast owing rivers and picturesque places, as in the Alps, as well harsh and barren karstic landscapes with deep gorges and canyons, much like those in the Wild West o the U.S.A. In the wide plains o lowland Croatia there still exist preserved wetland areotherwise ound only in the most eastern parts o Europe, in Russia or the Ukraine, whilst thecountrys mellow, gently undulating areas are decked with vineyards, medieval castles, burgs an

ortresses the like o which are seen in Germany and Austria.Te most treasured parts o Croatias natural heritage comprise 447 di erent protected areas cov-ering a total o 5,178 km2, i.e. about 10% o Croatias land area. Te most important amongstthose areas are eight na-tional parks (the PlitviceLakes, the River Krka,the Kornati Archipela-

go, the Brijuni Archi-pelago, the island o Mljet, Northern Velebit,Paklenica, and Risnjak);eleven nature parks(Kopaki rit, Papuk,Lonjsko polje, Medved-nica, umberak, Samo-borsko gorje, Uka,

Velebit, elaica, Vran-sko jezero, Biokovo, andthe Lastovo islands) andtwo strictly regulated reserves (Bijele and Samarske stijene, on Bjelolasica, and Roanski andHajduki kukovi, on Velebit).On the UNESCO World Intangible Cultural Heritage List are the Festivity o Saint Blaise, lace-making in Lepoglava, Hvar and Pag, the annual Carnival bell ringers pageant rom the Kastav Region, Procession Za Krien, ( ollowing the Cross) on the Island o Hvar, two-part singing and playing (music) in the Istrian scale, in Istria and Hrvatsko Primorje, the annual spring procession o Kraljice/Ljelje (queens) rom Gorjani and traditional manu acture o woodtoys in the Hrvatsko zagorje region. Croatia is among the countries with the most protected T

H E W O N D R O U S N A T U R A L H E R I T A G E O F C R O A T I A


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intangible cultural heritage elements, recorded on the UNESCO list.In addition to national parks, nature parks and strictly regulated reserves, Croatia has another426 di erent smaller areas and places under protection. O those, 78 are special reserves(botanical, wooded/ orested, geomorphological, hydrological, ichthyological, ornithologicalmaritime and zoological); 38 are parklands; 71 are classi ed as landscapes o outstandingbeauty and 104 are natural monuments (geological, geomorphological, palaeontological, andrare examples o trees). Special protection has also been extended to more than 135 monu-ments o park architecture: arboretums, botanical gardens, parks, individual trees and groupso trees. A total o 846 animal species have been placed under protection (including 359 birdand 74 mammals), 809 plant species and 314 types o mushroom.Te three main natural areas o Croatia: lowland, mountainous and coastal, are undamen-tally di erent in their main characteristics. Te largest o these areas comprises ertile and welpopulated lowland Croatia, which is situated at the south-western edge o the vast PannonianPlain. Its main natural characteristics are the centuries-old oak orests o the diluvial plainsnumerous rivers, which maintain their original courses, and an abundant plant and animalworld on land, in the waters and in the air. However, although located within the PannonianPlain this region is not always uni ormly at. Rising along the horizons o the elds andmeadows are the wine growing hill slopes and wooded elevations o Pannonia which, likeislands, stand out above the sea o wheat.In contrast to the lowlands, mountainous Croatia is small and very sparsely populated, whichexplains why it has been so well preserved in its original state. Its dense orests o beech, piand spruce are the domain o bears, wolves and lynx, while its sparkling clean and clear riverare ruled by otters and trout. Te heights reached by Croatian mountains may not be those o

the Alps, but the shapes o the white limestone are o ten such that they can be an inspirationto even the most imaginative o sculptors, thanks to the wide range o karstic phenomenawithin the limestone composition o rocks so speci cally typical o Croatia.Te wealth o karstic orms, such as ssures and sink holes, ound on the sur ace, continuethrough a subterranean world o caves, caverns, galleries, chasms and other distinctive relie

orms not easily ound elsewhere in Europe. Te signi cance o the Croatian karst is best seenin the technical literature or the majority o these orms, the names o which are difcultto accurately translate, where the original Croatian terms are used, or instance: uvala, polje,hum.

Finally, the jewel in the crown is the coastline, which attracts most visitors to Croatia. TeCroatian coastline, like the Greek, has the largest number o islands and is the most indentedin the Mediterranean. Te length o the coastline is 1,880 km and, together with the shoreso the 1,244 islands, isles, crags and ree s, extends to an amazing 6,278 km. Te number o coves, bays, nooks and crannies and secret places along those shores is difcult to compre-hend. All are washed by crystal clear seas and boast a wide variety o aspects: rom craggy aharsh rock-bound steep slopes swooping down into the sea to the wide and gentle areas sunk into lush Mediterranean vegetation. Here, all our visitors, particularly those on their boats oryachts, are able to discover their own little corner. So now let us set o and get to know theareas o natural beauty in Croatia, and help us to make sure that they remain as they are today

or uture generations to enjoy.


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Te publisher cannot guarantee the complete accuracy o the

in ormation contained herein, nor be held responsible or any errors that may be contained in uture amendments or changesto such in ormation.

CROATIAN TOURIST REGIONS

DALMATIA DUBROVNIK

CITY OF ZAGREB CENTRAL CROATIA

ISTRIA

SLAVONIA

KVARNER

DALMATIA ZADAR

LIKA KARLOVAC

DALMATIA IBENIK

DALMATIA SPLIT


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PUBLISHER: Croatian National Tourist Board / DIRECTOR: Niko Buli, M.Sc. / EDITOR IN CHIEF: Slavija Jaan ObratovCONCEPT - TEXT: Prof. Zoran Klari, D.Sc. / MAP PRODUCTION: Studio Bregant / DESIGN: Sergio Gobbo / Studio Gobb

Gronjan / PHOTOGRAPHY: Sergio Gobbo; Other photographic credits: Plitvice Lakes / Kopaki rit: Marin Topi, Zvonimir TanUnderwater photography: Daniel Frka, Arne Hodali, Borut Furlan; Animal world photography: Tihomir Makovec, Boris Krsti

Tomislav porer; Speleological photography: Vlado Boi TRANSLATION: Volga Vukelja-Dawe; Linda Rabuzin / PREPUBLICAComgraf Umag / PRINTED BY: RADIN PRINT, Zagreb, December 2010


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ISTRIA

High point o the MediterraneanTe Istrian peninsula is located at the northennmost part o the Mediterranean Sea. Te tourist region o Istria, comprising just one county, the County o Istria, is one o the smallest insize, but or popularity it is the prime tourist region in Croatia. Although the mention o Istria prompts many to think frst o numerous hotels and crowded beaches, the peninsula boasts a sizeable number o well preserved natural attractions and pic-turesque landscapes, not only in its coastal part but in particularin its hinterland. Due to its position at the crossroads o diversenatural and cultural attractions, Istria stands out through itsunique culture, music and gastronomy, all o which have earned it the appellation o magical land.

Let us begin our perambulations through magical Istria, which isat the northern end o Croatias Adriatic coast, in Savudrija bay on

the border with neighbouring Slovenia. I we continue down thewestern coast o the Istrian peninsula, a ter just a ew kilometres come upon the imposing Savudrija lighthouse. Built at the begin-ning o the 19th century (2), 38 metres tall, it is located at the mostwestern point o Croatia. Like many other Croatian lighthouses ithas been turned into a tourist attraction, but with a di erence: itallows those who stay there to enjoy the peace and solitude. In asymbolic manner it beckons us to explore Istria and its three magi-cal parts, each named a ter the colour predominant in the landscapered, grey and white.Red Istria, taking its name rom the ertile red soil, mostly coverthe at areas along the western shores o the peninsula, dotted withold, picturesque towns. Te majority o these are situated on themost prominent capes, as or instance, Novigrad (1), whose appearance has remained unchanged since the Middle Ages. Red


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Istria has a beauti ully indented coastline, with many islands, to-gether with a versatile vegetation, particularly the numerous olivegroves (6). o protect the natural environment, many parts o thecoast, and in particular the islands, have been spared invasion by tourists. Te most beauti ul and most amous are the Brijuni is-lands.Grey Istria occupies the central part o the peninsula and gets itsname rom another type o ertile soil: the greyish-coloured ysch,a mixture o marl, sandstone, clay and limestone. Te beauty o thispart o Istria lies not in the colour o its soil but rather in its pictur-esque, undulating landscapes, where the hilltops are decked with en-chanting little towns and villages (5). Many villages and towns boast

picturesque churches known or their imaginative architecture, suchas the church in Gronjan (4).White Istria re ers to the north-eastern part o the peninsula,

where the high mountains o Uka and iarija rise. For centuriesthese mountains have stood as a barrier between Istria and the otherparts o Croatia, and their impenetrability has ensured they haveremained in their natural state. White Istria takes its name romthe white limestone rock that swoops steeply into the interior othe peninsula and the rugged eastern coastal area, which is ar morsparsely populated and attracts a lesser number o tourists than thewestern coast. Standing out in the landscape are imposing limestonecli s (7) and airy-tale like mountain meadows (4) requently lasheby strong winds (6).One o the best preserved and beauti ul parts o the Istrian coastliis the LIMSKI ZALJEV (Lim ord) in the central part o the west

ern coast, whieh cuts deeply into the peninsula (10).It is protected as an outstanding landscape and maritime eaturebecause o its remarkable characteristics and unspoiled vegetation.


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O most interest to yachtsmen is the Kamenjak cape, south o Pula (8), around which they have to saili they wish to change course rom Istria towards the eastern coast o the Adriatic.I they continue sailing along the eastern coastline they can always nd a sa e berth in the deep Raka Bay (9).Lately, however, visitors are increasingly drawn to Istrias interior, well known or its beauti ul land-

scapes, unspoiled natural vegetation (16) and numerous karstic phenomena. Very prominent amongstthese is the Baredine cave near Pore (13), where unique animal species (15) can be seen. However,the interior is mostly known or good ood and wine, as well as its well preserved autochthonous ar-


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chitectural heritage. Tis quite speci c architecture, blending so well into the landscape, is atbest in the small towns at the top o undulating hills, where visitors to the noisy tourist resorthe coast can nd real peace and enjoy the true harmony between man and nature. One such ltown is Gronjan, as beauti ul in summer (11) as it is in winter (14). Tis speci c character been retained in the villages too, like Kotle (12), whose name clearly depicts its location (kcauldron).However, the most beauti ul part o Istria's natural heritage is the BRIJUNI National Park (Brijuni, a group o islands comprising two large and twelve smaller isles strung along Istrias


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western coast, are located not ar rom Pula. Teir sur ace area is barely 7 km2, but together with the protected surrounding sea the total area o the park is 34 km2. Te Brijuni islands are renowned or the indentednature o their respective coast lines (18) and their unspoiled Mediterra-nean vegetation, particularly where landscaped into parkland (19). Teislands also boast a valuable cultural heritage dating rom Roman andByzantine times. In more recent times, to be more precise, over the pasthundred years or so, the beauty o the islands has made them a popularholiday resort or world statesmen and the aristocracy. Although not permanently inhabited , there are people who live on theislands throughout the year due to numerous visits by tourists erriedover rom the mainland by boat(22). Veliki Brijun (Great Brijun) o ersaccommodation in three small hotels, enabling their guests to savour anatmosphere o peace, surrounded by beauti ul nature, with the tourist

urry o Pula being within easy reach. Tis is also the site o the oldestgol course in Croatia (25). Despite the numerous visitors, the landscapehas been well preserved, as wittnessed by the large number o birds whichwinter on the islands. Almost hal o the islands' land area is laid out as landscaped parksand grassland, a prominent eature being solitary holm oaks, with theirclipped crowns (21). During the time when Brijuni was the ofcial resi-

dence o Josip Broz ito, then President o Yugoslavia, a part o its land-scaped park was turned into a sa ari-park. Its inhabitants were predomi-nantly exotic herbivores such as elephants, antelopes, gazelles, llamas andzebras (23).Te cultural and historical heritage o the Brijuni islands contributedsigni cantly to this area being declared a national park. Particularly richis the heritage o Roman times when, in the 1st century AD, there existedin Verige cove one o the summer residences o the Roman emperors.Numerous well preserved statues (20) are testimony to that act. Stillmore abundant are nds rom the Byzantine period, during which a well

orti ed castrum ( ort) was built in Dobrila bay, which was occupieduntil the 14th century (24).In the 19th century the Austro-Hungarian monarchy built an impres-sive system o orti cations in order to ensure the de ence o Pula, thenits main naval port. Tese orti cations have been well preserved to thisday, and through their size they represent a prime example o European

orti cation architecture (26). However, we should thank the Austrianindustrialist Paul Kupelwieser or the present day appearance o the is-lands. At the end o the 19th century he purchased the islands and, withthe assistance o a amous doctor, Robert Koch, eradicated malaria romthem. Ten, at the beginning o the 20th century, he trans ormed theislands into a park like tourist area.


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KVARNERA crossroad o Europes eco-systemsExtending between Istria in the north and Dalmatia in the south is the widebay o Kvarner. Tis, the largest o the Croatian bays, is deeply indented inthe coastline between Istria and the rugged eastern coast. Te bay is not opento the sea but has fve larger and several smaller islands in it. A small part o the natural region o mountainous Croatia, the orested Gorski kotar, is ori-

ented towards Kvarner. Te biggest city o Kvarner and the greatest Croatianport is Rijeka.Te tourist region o Kvarner covers the County o Primorje-Gorski kotar, whichencompasses the mountainous coastal area (littoral) with its numerous islandsand the mountainous area rich in protected natural sites. Among them, the mostprominent are the national park Risnjak on the northeastern orested edge o themountanious area and the Uka nature park on the northwestern edge towardsIstria.Te variety o plant and animal li e is a result o the act that the area o Kvarnerlies upon one o the crossroads o European eco-systems. It is here that the Medi-terranean and Central Europe meet; the Alps and the Dinaric Range join andthe Mediterranean and moderate continental climates mix, all o which makesKvarner a region o contrasts.


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Te coastal part o Kvarner, though mountainous, is cultivated. Tiscultivation distinguishes it rom the neighbouring wild karst coasts o the Lika-Karlovac region to the south. Te mountainous part o Kvar-ner in the region o Gorski kotar (mountain district) is also di erent

rom the neighbouring mountain areas, and is characterised by thediversity o its relie , as well as the abundance o water and orests. TeKvarner islands have a speci c nature, sometimes so t and green andother times rock-bound and harsh.

ravelling rom Istria eastwards on the way to Kvarner, we rst comeacross the 1400 metre high UKA mountain. It is a nature park be-cause o its protected landscapes and its wealth o ora and auna,resulting rom the special climate there, where the Mediterranean cli-mate becomes continental. Amongst the main attractions o Uka are the unique limestone or-mations in the area o Vrana (1), and at the very top o Uka, wherean old tower (2) is erected. Mountaineers like to be photographed (8)next to this tower. From the summit o the mountain there are un or-gettable views o the nearby islands (3) and Opatija Riviera. Opatija owes its re reshing evenings to the shelter a orded by the lush orests o Uka. Ukas peaks are requently bathed in sunshine whilst its slopesare o ten blanketed in og. Tis creates a special atmosphere (6). Walkers and mountaineers (10) visiting Uka in mid-summer can enjoy it in all its beauty, whether through the re reshing wooded parts(5) or along the mountains wind-swept ridge (7). Also there or theirenjoyment are numerous other eatures o interest, such as caves (4)and chapels, which provide shelter in inclement weather (11). Temost courageous visitors like to take advantage o the avourable aircurrents and use the top o Uka as a launch pad or paragliding (9).However, the most signi cant attraction o Kvarner is its only nationalpark, RISNJAK. It was named a ter its most popular inhabitant, theris, that is, the lynx, and covens an area o 64 km2. Being located wherethe Alps meet the Dinaric Range, where the Mediterranean gradually

gives way to the Pannonia Plain, it combines almost all the orest typeso these areas, as well as containing numerous plant and animal spe-cies.Nature lovers come to Risnjak or the beauty o the mountains, orests,waters and karst. Te most requent visitors are mountaineers, who

nd the highest peak o the massi a most rewarding challenge (12).Risnjaks summit is equally attractive in all seasons: in winter, whencovered with snow (15); in spring, when the meadows around it aretrans ormed into carpets o owers (19); in summer, when it o ers re-spite rom the heat in the nearby littoral area, and in autumn, when thetrees are bathed in a myriad o colours (17). In addition to the lynx, thetrade mark o the mountain, there are also brown bears (13), martens(14) and dormice(22). Risnjak is also amous or its antastic views o the islands o the Kvarner Bay and o the mountains in neighbouring Slovenia (18), and all the way to the Alps.


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Te rst ew kilometres o the 300 km long course o the RiverKupa (20), which ows towards the Pannonian Plains, run withinthe boundaries o the national park. In its upper course the Kupa isa ast owing, crystal-clear river with numerous rapids, which makes

it very popular with lovers o white water sports. Te rivers power ulsource, emanating rom beneath a high cli (16) is one o the largestand most beauti ul in Croatia. Some o the local houses are excellentexamples o the architecture typical o Gorski kotar, with their steepwooden roo s (21) designed to slough o snow during heavy alls. Apart rom the Risnjak national park, the region o GORSKIKO AR is also renowned or orbidding canyons, numerous caves,

ast owing clear rivers and water alls showering mist. Te mostpopular attraction is Vraji prolaz (Devils Pass), near the town o Skrad, its name speaking volumes or its actual appearance (26).Te highest peaks o Gorski kotar are not in Risnjak but at thesouthern edge o the region. Tere, centred around Bjelolasica (25),which is the highest peak, is a whole array o attractions: the stony,

orested wildernesses o Bijele stijene and Samarske stijene, numer-ous old hill orts and many other interesting eatures. Although analtitude o 1,533 metres may not seem much, with the abundanceo snow and the length o its duration through the winter months,the atmosphere here is that o the Alps. Tis is why the best skiing terrains in Croatia (23) are located on the slopes o Bjelolasica. TeCroatian Olympic Centre is in its oothills.Te most striking part o the mountain massi o Bjelolasica arethe strictly regulated reserves o Bijele stijene and Samarske stijene.Similar in appearance to Roanski kukovi and Hajduki kukovi onVelebit, this is the second, but more orested, o the two strictly regulated reserves in Croatia. Te main attraction o this reserve isa string o strange rocks (27) which rise like white mountains romthe sea o the surrounding orest. Te reserve is also known or itsunspoiled dense orests (24) and numerous endemic plant species,which are o ten seen growing in seemingly impossible places (28).In spite o it not boasting national and nature parks, the region o Kvarner provides much beauty in its littoral parts, mostly on theISLANDS o KRK, CRES, LOINJ, RAB and PAG, and their adjacent smaller islands, each o which is special in its own way. Tetwo largest islands o the Kvarner Bay and o the whole o the Adri-atic - Krk and Cres - di er greatly rom one another. Krk is gently undulating and, or the most part, cultivated and well populated,while mountainous and more sparsely inhabited Cres is predomi-

nantly covered with pastures and macchia. Rab and Pag also havetwo di erent acets: wild and stony in the east, and mellower inthe west, while lushly green Loinj, despite its location in the northo the Adriatic Sea, is a kind o oasis, with a climate that is almostsubtropical.


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Nature is most unspoiled on Cres, whose picturesque villages have a somewhat rugged at-

mosphere (35), whilst its numerous coves, like Punta Kria (37), are washed by the crystalclear sea. Te largest natural phenomenon on the island o Cres is the unique resh waterVrana Lake (36). Reaching a depth o 80 metres, it contains about 200 million cubic metreso resh water so precious to the islanders. Consequently, access to the lake is strictly prohib-ited, which means that its mystic beauty can be enjoyed only rom vantage points along themain road. Te symbol o Cres is the Gri on vulture, one o the largest European birds (34),which nests in the islands sheer cli s. Tese cli s are protected as an ornithological reserve.South o Cres is the island o Loinj, Kvarners most popular tourist destination. Yet, its hilly region, around the Osorica peak, has remained completely unspoiled (30). It is a avouriteexcursion site (33) or tourists who pre er to leave the clamour o humanity behind themon the beaches. Te sea around Loinj is known or its numerous schools o dolphins (32),a protected species here. Located in the immediate vicinity o Loinj are several lovely smallislands to which only walkers and cyclists have access (38), as, or example, Unije (31) withits unspoiled autochthonous atmosphere and characteristic architecture, and Ilovik (29),much avoured by yachtsmen as a destination.


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LIKA - KARLOVACthe area richest in natural heritageTe most scarcely populated part o Croatia stretches between the coastal re-gions o Kvarner and Dalmatia on one hand and the interior Pannonian Croa-tia on the other. Tis area comprises the major part o the mountainous regiono Croatia - the entire region o Lika, a minor part o the Gorski kotar and a smaller part o the littoral region beneath the Velebit Mountain and a part o the Island o Pag. Tis region also comprises a part o Pannonian Croatia around the city o Karlovac, an important transport hub, which is the cross-road or all major roads rom the interior to the coast. Out o all the regionsthat have access to the Adriatic, the Lika-Karlovac region is the largest.Te tourist region Lika-Karlovac comprises two counties - the Lika-Senj County and the Karlovac County. Te Lika-Senj County is the largest Croatian county, butis also the most scarcely populated as it is characterised by extremely mountainouskarst areas and wild littoral areas beneath the biggest Croatian mountain -- theVelebit. Te Karlovac County is also not densely populated as it comprises the area o Pannonian Croatia that is not naturally rich and has more karst areas as it is near-est to the mountains. Te Lika-Karlovac region is renowned or its richness in karstphenomena and a high level o biodiversity. It is no surprise, there ore, that out o all the Croatian regions, this one is richest in natural monuments.It is in this region that two o the eight national parks are located (Plitvice Lakes,Northern Velebit), as well as the major part o the largest o all o Croatias natureparks, Velebit. Te Velebit reserve (Hajduki and Roanski kukovi) and some othersmall areas enjoy the strictest orm o nature protection in Croatia. ogether, theseparks spread over an area larger than all the other protected areas in Croatia. Tis iswhy this region is considered to be the lungs o Croatia. Due to the karst relie and

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Te Lika-Karlovac region is extremely diverse. Its littoral part and theisland o Pag are characterised by wilderness and steep cli s, as welluntouched natural beauty. Te Lika highlands are characterised by vastkarst elds and monumental and wild landscapes. Te Karlovac area isknown or its richness in water (the renowned our rivers Kupa, KoranDobra and Mrenica) and the contrast between the orested wild mountains to the south and the tame Pannonian plains to the north.

It is precisely where Lika and the Karlovac region meet that the regionmost important natural area and some consider the greatest pearl o Croatia's entire natural heritage HE PLI VICE LAKES (1) is locatedTis is Croatias best known national park and the only natural site in-cluded in the UNESCO List o World Heritage sites. Tere is a total oseven such sites in Croatia.Te main attractions o this park, unique in the world, are the 16 smalllakes joined by water alls created by the sedimentation o travertinespecial type o limestone. Tis national park encompasses the source othe River Korana, which is located in an area surrounded by dense oreso beech, r and spruce. Tere are also several caves in the park, as weas springs and owering meadows. Te brown bear stands out as one omany protected animal species.Te popularity o this park is also boosted by the special means o transport used to erry visitors around: the panoramic trains (13) and thenoiseless electro-powered boats (5). It is impossible to say whether thpark is more beauti ul in the spring, when the owers in its meadows ain ull bloom and when the trees have turned green again (3), or whenthe riot o autumn colours (2) is re ected in the waters o the lakes (7), indeed during the winter calm, when ice petri es the water alls and whethe surrounding trees are heavily laden with snow (6). By a network opaths, visitors can get around and access the numerous water alls (8) anthe rocky lake shores (4). Te intense green colour o the lakes is also magnet or curious tourists (9).Te Plitvice Lakes are divided into the larger Upper Lakes, set amid

wooded and gentler slopes, and the Lower Lakes, situated in a ruggeand rocky canyon. Te highest o the lakes is situated at an altitude o637 metres. Te River Korana (10) begins its course at the base o theSastavci, the lowest water all , at an altitude o 503 metres. Te Sastavc134 metre long span is urther divided into a myriad o greater and lesswater alls which endlessly change their appearance and height.Specially built ootpaths erected on wooden supports (11 & 12) allowvisitors to approach the water alls, whilst at the same time protectinthe natural creator o the lakes, travertine, which is easily damaged bpeople walking over it. ravertine is a special type o so t, porous rocreated rom limestone deposits carried by the water and which, assisteby micro-organisms, deposit diluted limestone. Te highest o the lakes

is Proansko jezero, and the roar and rumble o water alls is absent hewhilst its distance rom the main walking routes has ensured that itnatural environment has remained unspoiled(14). Proansko jezero, immersed in its green surroundings, contrasts with the canyon like Lowelakes, which are characterised by white karstic rocks (15). Te visitors canenjoy the pure beauty o nature and learn about undamental naturavalues. At the Plitvice Lakes, this knowledge is provided by numerouin ormation boards and by lea ets which can be acquired at the park cilities. All these items are produced rom natural materials typical o tarea. Most requently used is timber (16), or sometimes, as in the case the main park building, stone (17).


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Te second greatest natural jewel o the Lika-Karlovac region is majesticVELEBI , the largest Croatian mountain which is rich in natural phe-nomena. Protected as a nature park and extending over 2,000 km2 inarea, it is by ar the largest protected area in Croatia, larger than all theothers put together. Within the nature park is a whole range o smallerprotected areas, including two national parks: Northern Velebit in theLika-Karlovac region and Paklenice in Dalmatia.

Velebit mountain contains so many natural sites which rank among themost precious in Croatia. So much so that the entire mountain, through-out its ull length o about 150 km, has been placed under UNESCOprotection as a World Biosphere Reserve, the only one at present o itskind in Croatia. Velebit is signi cant or its wealth o ora and auna,and not only or the total number o species, but also or the number o endemic species.Velebit has two acets: the harsh, orbidding and barren aspect acing the sea (18) and the endless orests on its continental side (22 & 24). Among a vast range o breathtaking sights, those which stand apart arethe various karstic ormations, one being the bizarre gure o Stapina, a vertical rounded obelisk some 100 metres high (20). Te mountain is ullo abysses and caves, wild canyons, rapids and, above all, unrepeatable,o ten orbidding vistas o wild and unbridled nature (19).Tis amazing mountain also has a great many natural eatures o in-terest outside its two national parks. Te most striking among these isits central part around Bake Otarije, a picturesque place located in a mountain pass beneath the imposing crest o Kiza (21), which can bereached via the old road (23). Situated in Bake Otarije is one o the ew hotels on the mountain (26), providing warmth and com ort, and anideal starting point or hiking expeditions.Te best times o the year or visiting Velebit are late spring, early summerand early autumn, when the hot sun does not beat down on its mead-ows (27 & 31), barren rocks and ridges (32). Needless to say, Velebit isequally ascinating in the winter, but a visit to its wind lashed, snow cov-

ered slopes is recommended only or the most experienced mountaineers(25). Nature lovers are drawn to Velebit by the abundance o the plantand animal worlds (29 & 30) and or the preserved rural architecture inthe ew mountain villages and hamlets (28).Te unique landscapes and the greatest wealth o ora and auna areto be ound in the area o the NOR HERN VELEBI National Park.Located in the peak area o the northernmost part o the mountain andextending over a mere 109 km2, are a number o exceptional eatures:the cone like karstic ormations known as Hajduki kukovi and Roanskikukovi, the botanical garden set in a natural environment, and the deepLukina jama (Lukas hole). Tat is why Croatian mountaineers regardthis area as the most precious jewel among all o Croatias mountains.

Hajduki kukovi and Roanski kukovi, an endless range o rocky peakswith diverse and bizarre orms (kukovi) up to 200 metres in height, aresituated in the very centre o the national park. Tis amazing rocky landscape is protected as a strictly regulated reserve, the strictest ormo nature protection in the country. Located amid Hajduki kukovi, atan altitude o 1,475 metres, is Lukina jama. With its base being a mere83 metres above sea level, its overall depth o 1,392 metres makes it theeighth deepest hole in the world.Despite the harsh and hostile rock bound wilderness, in the 1930s a trail was master ully built through the Roanski kukovi by engineer AntePremui, a dedicated lover o Velebit and a ter whom the trail is named(33 &41). Te Premui trail is considered to be the most beauti ul hik-ing trail in Croatia, well known as one which enables even those o moremodest physical condition (34) to walk it without the risk o dangeralong the edges o massive cli s and precipitous abysses. From the trail


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one can enjoy wonder ul views o the sea and the Kvarner islands(40).In addition to Hajduki and Roanski kukovi there are numerousother interesting karstic eatures, in particular sinkholes and abysses(38 & 39). Spread below the trail is the green umbrella o the tallconi erous trees o the primeval orest o tirovaa (36) whose vast,impenetrable, Stygian darkness and isolation has given rise to any number o spooky legends in the surrounding villages. NorthernVelebit also harbours many endemic plant species, the best knownbeing Degenia Velebitica, practically the symbol o the mountain(37). Also to be ound are rare animal species, such as the eagle owl(35).Te main gathering place or trippers, hikers and mountaineers vis-iting the Northern Velebit National Park is located beneath Zavianpeak, in the mountain lodge o the same name (54 & 56). It canbe reached by a orest road rom both the littoral and continental

sides. Located in the immediate vicinity o Zavian is the VelebitBotanical Garden (44), its location on the edge o a deep karsticsinkhole making it unique in the world. Even in the middle o sum-mer, ice sometimes remains at the bottom o that hole, as the sun-light cannot reach it.Right next to the botanical garden is the start o the Premui trail(51) partially constructed and parapeted with stone (42) which inpart cuts through the karstic rocks (43) and in places simply tra-verses Velebits many meadows. Te only traces o civilization alonthis remarkable trail are tiny churches (45) and re uges or mountaineers, skil ully blended into the mountainous landscape (47). Teinimitable views rom the Premui trail o the wooded interio(53), and more particularly o the sea and the islands (52 & 55),are especially memorable as the sun begins to set (50). Apart rombeing able to enjoy the walks (46) and scenes o untamed nature(48), visitors may also indulge in other orms o recreation, suc


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as riding in the wooded oothills o the continental part othe park (49).LIKA, located on the continental side o Velebit, was a region o proud highlanders and warriors in the past. Apart

rom the Plitvice Lakes and Velebit, Lika boasts one o thecountrys most beauti ul valleys, Gacka Valley, near the towno Otoac. Its beauty and value are o such signi cance thathe Zagreb - Split highway was built along its mountainousedge rather than through the valley itsel . Te views romthe highway are astounding.Te Gacka Valley is also amed or being one o the besttrout shing places, which is why it is a must or every dedi-

cated angler. Te River Gacka (61 & 63) and the small, pic-turesque lakes along its course (60) are characterised by anintense green colour, the village located right by the water(62) and the wooded landscapes surrounding it (64). Lika o ers still more, with or instance, the area around KruicaLake, south o the Gacka Valley (57 & 65). Equally pictur-esque are the village houses with their typical porches (66),numerous towers symbolic o the belligerent past (59) andthe churches which dominate the landscape (58).Te littoral part o Velebit looks over the islands o Rab andPAG. Te northern part o Pag belongs to the Lika-Karlovacregion. o those approaching these islands rom the conti-nent, they seem like stony deserts, while those approaching

rom the sea are met with evergreen woods and lush mac-chia, as is the case near Lun on the island o Pag (67). Tebarren aces on the continental side (68 & 70) are the resulto the bora, a strong, bitter wind that swoops down rom themighty mountain o Velebit on the mainland. On the otherhand, the deep coves o Pag (69) hide many lovely pebblebeaches surrounded by clear, clean blue waters.Finally, the northermost part o the Lika-Karlovac region,towards the Pannonian valley, is completely di erent romboth Lika and other neighbouring lowlands o Central Croa-tia. Tis area boasts our amazing rivers: KUPA, DOBRA,KORANA and MRENICA, which ow rom the rugged

mountains down towards the Pannonian Plain. In the towno Karlovac they come together, which is why Karlovac iscalled the town on our rivers.


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Te rivers o Karlovac are ull o rapids and water alls, as at the con-uence o the Mrenica with the Korana (75), which runs, clean

and clear, through the centre o the town. How could the Korana (71) not be clean and clear (72) when its waters are ed by the Plit-vice Lakes, and with no industry along its course to pollute its wa-ters? Tis is why there are always anglers to be seen along its banks(73) and why so many ducks constantly congregate here (74). Also clean is the largest river in this area, the River Kupa, which

ows rom Karlovac, straight through the valley towards Sisak,where it joins with the River Sava. Te River Dobra is just as beauti-

ul and equally clear (76), but its crowning eature is the impressivecanyon. It is also known or the abyss in the town o Ogulin, whichmany connect with legends o witches gathering around the impres-sive mountain Klek, the cradle o Croatian mountaneering (77). According to many, however, the most beauti ul o all is the short-est o the rivers o Karlovac, the reason being that down its entirelength, owing mostly through a canyon, its course is interspersedwith water alls, one a ter the other, each succeeding one more beau-ti ul than the last, created, just like the Plitvice Lakes, by travertinebarriers. Consequently, the greater part o the Mrenica (78) is in

act comprised o a string o small lakes linked by water alls andanked by irresistible, natural bathing spots.


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CENTRAL CROATIABetween the Alps, the DinaricRange and the Pannonian PlainIn the interior o the country, abutting the Lika-Karlovac region, isthe tourist region o Central Croatia. o the west it is bordered by the Alps, which, here, peter out into hilly terrain, and by the rugged Di-narides to the south. owards the east, Central Croatia expands intothe ertile Pannonian Plain and the valleys o the Rivers Sava and Drava. Tis is Croatias largest tourist region, comprising as many as seven counties (Zagreb, Krapina-Zagorje, Varadin, Meimurje,Koprivnica-Krievci, Bjelovar-Bilogora and Sisak-Moslavina) which,like a necklace, encircle Zagreb, capital o the Republic o Croatia,situated in the very centre o the region.


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Due to population density, there are no national parks in Central

Croatia, but there are two very interesting nature parks: Lonjskopolje (River Lonja Range) and the umberak-Samobor Highlands,and a part o Medvednica, the latter being the best visited naturepark in Croatia, which is also linked to the City o Zagreb.It is inCentral Croatia that the last preserved Central European wetlandscan be ound, that one can enjoy shing on clean rivers, ramblethrough picturesque wine growing country, or recuperate body andsoul on hikes through wooded mountain terrain.One o the most important gi ts bequeathed by nature in this parto Croatia are the numerous rivers, their courses or the most parthaving remained as nature intended. Tis includes the longest Croa-tian river, the Sava, whose banks give a great deal o pleasure tonumerous anglers (5). Similar landscapes are just as common along other major rivers, such as the Drava, Kupa and Una (1); the oldCroatian town Hrvatska Kostajnica on the banks o the Una (3),the hills rich with vineyards, especially in the region o the Croa-tian Zagorje (2), and many interesting characteristics such as theurevaki pijesci, the last remnants o the expansive sandy desertso the Pannonian plain (4).Te largest nature park in Central Croatia is LONJSKO POLJE,located in the valley o the Sava, east o Zagreb. Covering an area

o 506 km2

, it is one o the largest preserved European wetlands,protected by the Ramsar Convention as a wetland area o world im-

portance. Te park provides an atmosphere o peace and tranquillity

(8) characteristic o wide wetland expanses. Growing alongside calwaters covered in water lilies (10) are primeval oak orests, particularly beauti ul at dusk (11).However, by ar the greatest wealth o Lonjsko polje are its 250 bispecies. Tese include numerous small birds (13 & 14) and di erenttypes o duck (9). Te best known inhabitants o the park are storks(7), which habitually build their nests on the roo s o the lovely timber built village houses. One such village is igo, in 1994 declaredto be the rst European Village o Storks. Needless to say, the wateo Lonjsko polje attract other creatures, such as snakes (12), but wshould point out that there are ewer poisonous snakes here than inthe rocky south o Croatia.In the valley o the Kupa there is another area with similar char-acteristics: the avian reserve o Crna Mlaka, also protected by thRamsar Convention. Te shponds o Crna Mlaka (6 & 15) aremade even more special through being an oasis or birds normally

requenting the immediate vicinity o any large city, in this case, thCity o Zagreb. West o Zagreb is UMBERAK SAMOBORSKO GORJE(umberak and Samobor Highlands). By de nition this is quitedi erent rom Lonjsko polje, since it encompasses the distinctly

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the number o karstic phenomena untypical o areas adjoining the Pannonia Plain:deep canyons, small, sparkling rivers bursting with numerous water alls (16) andbroad, owering meadows.Te special eature o umberak is its people, who live on the higher parts o themountains, in villages clinging to the steep slopes (21). Te majority o the popula-tion are descendants o the amous Croatian guardians o the sea - Uskoks rom thetown o Senj, on the shores o Kvarner. As a section o these people are o the Greek Catholic persuasion, the villages o umberak are dotted with numerous small, pic-turesque churches (22), including those on the highest peak o Mount umberak,the 1202 metre high Sveta Gera (19). Tere are also places where, standing side by side, are Roman Catholic and Greek Catholic churches, as is the case in the hamleto Dojutrovica (20).Te oothills o the umberak Samobor Hills are gentler, particularly the vineyardson the slopes o Pleivica (18). Grape vines blend nicely with the landscape (17), asdo the numerous ruins scattered across the surrounding hills, like the old town o Samobor (23).Te most important hilly part o Croatia is HRVA SKO ZAGORJE, a truly enchant-

ing region north o Zagreb. Dotted across the undulating landscape are numerousmanor houses, castles and churches, whilst the wooded hills conceal many old ruins. All who come here can enjoy airy tale like vistas, climb the wooded slopes, or bathein any o the numerous spas. Among the castles there is one that holds a special place,rakoan Castle (24), which today houses a museum with a rich collection o weap-

onry and antique urniture. As a result o its beauty and position, overlooking a small,quiet lake and surrounded by woodlands, the area o rakoan has been granted thestatus o a protected outstanding landscape.Hrvatsko Zagorje is also an area which boasts the most important palaeontologicalsite in Croatia: the archaeological site o the Neanderthal Man, near Krapina. Nextto it is an open-air museum (27). Te signi cance o this site is such that in January 1996 it was shown on the cover o the world amous National Geographic magazine.Te town o Gornja Stubica shelters a linden tree which is over 400 years old (30).


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Tis is the best known protected tree in Croatia, because in 1573,the leader o the peasants uprising, Matija Gubec, assembled his

ollowers beneath its boughs prior to their revolt against the eudallords.Te dominant perception o a typical landscape o Zagorje is one o undulating hills, orchards and vineyards, dotted with the so char-acteristic stick mounted rattles designed to scare o the birds (29).One such location is Vinagora, with its imposing church on the topo a hill (25), rom which there are beauti ul views o the surround-ing countryside. Landscapes such as these are to be ound in otherareas o Central Croatia too, like, or instance, in northernmostMeimurje, known or its quality wines (28). Medieval ruins are a

requent sight on top o hills and mountains, such as at Kalnik, nearthe town o Krievci (26).


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CITY OF ZAGREBA metropolis surrounded by gorgeous greenery Tere are ew European cities able to boast such an abundanceand variety o attractive landscapes and preserved natural envi-ronments in their immediate vicinity as Zagreb, the capital city o Croatia. Adjacent to the city, extending virtually into its cen-

tral artery, Ilica, is Medvednica and the hills o vineyards at theoot o that mountain. Tere are also preserved wetlands and

lakes rich in bird li e, numerous castles set in landscaped parks...Less than an hours drive rom Zagreb is the rugged mountain o umberak, enchantingly undulating Hrvatsko zagorje, the ourrivers o the Karlovac area, hunting grounds teeming with gamelarge and small, and many more appealing sites.

Like many other capital cities, Zagreb is a separate administrativeunit (county) and, there ore, a separate tourist region.In addition to the built-up city area, it encompasses the adjacentgreen surroundings, which means that the Medvednica Nature


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peak, Sljeme, which is dominated by a V broadcasting tower. Located around tsummit are a number o mountain lodges (4) where hikers, climbers and trippers crest and restore their energy with popular Sljeme specialties such as bean soup wsausages and apple or cottage-cheese strudel. Where there are no lodges, there numerous shelters in case o storms (7). A great deal o greenery has also been preserved within the inner city area, Zagrtradition o guarding its green areas has been strong since the Middle Ages. Conquently, Zagreb has many large parks across the city, including the one around thmain city centre square, rg Bana Josipa Jelaia. Tis is why Zagreb appears to bedistinctly green metropolis or many visitors.Te most signi cant part o the green belt located through the centre o Zagreb LENUZZIS HORSESHOE, named a ter the architect Milan Lenuzzi, who playa key role in its concept, which was devised at the turn o the 19th century. Teconcept comprises a string o parks which surround the nucleus o the city likhorseshoe, rom rg Marala ita (Marshal ito Square) and neighbouring Roosevtov trg (Roosevelt Square) in the north-west (18), across rg Kralja omislava (Komislav Square) in the southeast (19), to Strossmayerovog trg (Strossmayer Squ

(13) and Zrinjevac in the northeast, not ar rom the previously mentioned centrg Bana Josipa Jelaia.

O all the parks in the centre o Zagreb the largest and the most special is the Botcal Gardens o the Natural and Mathematical Faculty in Zagreb, located in the souwestern part o the horseshoe and covering an area o ve hectares. Te gardcontain numerous types o trees (12), bushes and owers (15), mostly those typo a continental climate.Te most beauti ul and largest park in Zagreb is Maksimir, located northeast o thcity centre and covering an area o 316 hectares. Te park was ounded in 1794 bthe Bishop o Zagreb, Maksimilian Vrhovec, a ter whom the park was named. Ctained within it are several very beauti ul pavilions, which are representative oBishops times (11), and Zagreb Zoo (14), regarded as one o the more beauti ul zin Europe. Zagrebs main recreational area is around JARUN LAKE. Back in 198when Zagreb was hosting the Universiade, otherwise known as the Student Gama 2 km long lake was built in what, up until then, was a backwater o the River SaTe lake has a rowing course, other water sports acilities (9) and several bathiareas. In summer, thousands o people come here to re resh themselves by bathinthe waters o what the citizens o Zagreb ondly call their Zagreb Sea.Te second most popular lake in Zagreb, Bundek, was trans ormed into a park i2006. It is particularly popular as a recreation area or the new parts o Zagreb, ri

on the right bank o the River Sava, where a large number o people live but whlacks many urban acilities. Here, there are pathways with small bridges (10 & and several playgrounds or children (15). Part o the lake has been le t in its nastate (8) to remind us o the times, some 50 years ago, when this whole area wcovered by woods and wetlands.


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SLAVONIAPoetry o oak orests and ertilefelds alongside the RiversDanube, Drava and Sava

Te most eastern part o Croatia comprises the tourist regiono Slavonia, which makes it the largest Croatian region a terDalmatia. Slavonia is renowned or its wheat felds, endless oak

orests extending along the Danube, Drava and Sava, and or itsancient rural landscapes. However, there are broad mountainscovered with dense beech orests and vineyards on the hill slopesin Slavonia too. Tere is also a well preserved autochthonous

olklore heritage, the sound o tambouritzas, and a delectablecuisine with local specialties. wo nature parks are located inSlavonia: the wooded mountain o Papuk and Kopaki rit - a unique wetland region, as well as several other protected areas,mostly woods and parks.

Te main natural de ning lines o Slavonia are the three largest Cro-atian rivers, the Danube, Drava and Sava, which border to the east,south and north. Hence, stretching through the north, east and

south o the region is a wide expanse o plains, Podravina, and to thnorth, Baranja, along the moody Drava; Posavina, along the placidSava, whose course is anked by primeval oak orests, and ertiCroatian Podunavlje and the region o Srijem, along the mightyDanube. Te only mountainous area is in the west, with a range o wooded mountains: Papuk and Krndija in the north, Psunj, Poeka gora and Dilj in the south, and in the centre, the wonder ul and

ertile Poeka kotlina (Poega Valley), amous or its vineyards. A ter Central Croatia, Slavonia is the largest o Croatias touriregions, comprising ve counties: Virovitica-Podravina, Poega-Slavonia, Brod-Posavina, Osijek-Baranja and Vukovar-Srijem. Located away rom the main tourist routes, most o which lead to thesea, Slavonia attracts relatively ew tourists even today. However, those who do visit, Slavonia will be a surprising and richly rewarding experience.


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Te things which best de ne the soul o Slavonia are its at wheatelds, extending as ar as the eye can see, the monumentality o its

tall oak trees in the great wetland orests, and the placid nature o its wide rivers. Tose rivers have not been restrained within canals,and one can still enjoy their green waters and the endless orests that

ollow their courses. Tis applies both to the Danube, whose widecourse is estooned with numerous small islands (4), and the tameSava, which is bordered by dense oak orests (1).Tis is why Slavonians best like to spend their leisure time in theirmodest timber built weekend huts on the banks o those rivers (5). A particularly popular orm o recreation is shing in the peace ulambience o the woods bordering the calm rivers (3). Many Slavo-

nians have old wooden boats (2) with which they sail the shelteredbackwaters, where civilization is but a distant thought.Greenery in Slavonia reaches into its towns, all o which have at leaone lovely park in their centres. Tis applies equally to large townslike Osijek or Slavonski Brod and small ones such as Naice. Indeedmany say that the most beauti ul o all the town parks in Slavonia in act the one in Naice (6), in which stands the imposing Pejaevimanor house. Slavonia is also renowned or its tradition o horsbreeding and traditional olk estivals, such as akovaki vezovi Vinkovake jeseni, were horses are a central eature. Te main horsebreeding centre is akovo, next to which is the amous Lipizzanestud arm (7).


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Te greenest waters and orests in the whole o Slavonia are to beound in KOPAKI RI Nature Park. Te park covers the wetland

area around the con uence o the Drava with the Danube, nearOsijek, covering a total o 238 hectares, and which, due to its in-accessibility, has remained in its natural state since primeval time.Kopaki rit is one o the largest natural wetlands in Europe and assuch has been recommended or inclusion in the UNESCO List o Natural Heritage.Due to its extraordinary natural value and the unique beauty o itswetland landscapes, i Kopaki rit had been located in some otherstate, it would have certainly been awarded the status o a nationalpark, but in Croatia, this has not been possible because o the strict

criteria applied to national parks. In some areas o this park, there icultivated woodland, whilst in others hunting is permitted.Te reason or this lies in the act that the area o Kopaki rit isone o the most attractive hunting grounds in Europe, particularlywith regard to deer (10) and wild boar (17). Since Croatian lawsstrictly orbid such activities in national parks, or the time beingKopaki rit is merely a nature park. Many nature lovers would behappy to see such activities prohibited altogether, and not only inthe zoological reserve, which covers an area o up to 80 hectares ithe central area o the park.Large herds o deer are practically a trade mark o Kopaki rit, dspite the act that herds o wild boar are just as large. Tere are othe


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mammals in the park, but ar more numerous are birds (8), totalling almost 300 di erent species (11, 14 & 15). Te most importantamong them are the very rare and protected species: white tailedeagle and black stork. Among other rare animals living in the park,turtles occupy a special place(16).Te park can be easily reached by car rom nearby Osijek, the larg-est town in Slavonia, and visitors can abandon themselves to theprimeval ambiances o the wetlands, orests and diluvial elds (9).Te best way, however, is to tour the park on excursion boats (12)which are able to reach even the shallow, swampy backwaters. Tebeauties o the park are also enjoyed by tourists aboard large rivercruisers sailing the Danube, which marks the eastern border o thistruly magni cent nature park (13).

Slavonia comprises not just at lands but also wooded mountains,the majority o which are situated in the westernmost. Te mostwidespread and beauti ul o these is the protected nature park oPAPUK. Te eature that visitors nd the most captivating is thewoods o Papuk, extending as ar as the eye can see (18). Tesewoods are mainly mountain beech (20), but there are also oak, rand other types o trees. Imposing trees also grow in the oothillo Papuk, particularly in town parks such as those in Slatina, Ora-hovica and Naice (19).By ar the most beauti ul part o Papuk is Jankovan park-woodone o Slavonias avourite excursion sites. It is named a ter Cou Jankovi, who owned the surrounding estates and who, deciding to spend his dotage here, made himsel a place to rest in and to


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enjoy. In a magical valley up in the mountains there are several spar-kling brooks surrounded by owering meadows and dense beech

woods. At the top o the mountains is the loveliest o all its adorn-ments: the Jankovac water all (22). Tere is also a mountain lodgeo the same name (21), regarded by many Croatian mountaineers tobe the most beauti ul and the most com ortable o all o Croatiasmountain lodges.However beauti ul the woods, brooks and water alls may be, whatmakes this mountain unique in Croatia is its geology. Here, one cansee all the ages o rocks, rom the Palaeozoic to the most recent Qua-ternary period. Tis is also the only Croatian mountain to have anabundance o volcanic rocks. Consequently, this is where Rupnica - the rst Croatian geological park known or the unusual strata itcontains (23) - was ounded near the picturesque village o Voin.

Due to its exceptionally interesting and valuable geology, Papuk hasbeen included in the list o world geological parks, the rst suchpark in Croatia.

In addition to its clean and preserved nature, Slavonia stands outwith its harmonious blend o natural heritage and human interven-

tion. Tis relates in particular to the picturesque region o BARAN- JA, in the northeasternmost region o Croatia, north o the DravaIn act, Baranja is not a part o Slavonia but a separate region, thbulk o which is located in neighbouring Hungary. Te largest parto Baranja is made up o endless plains, but there are occasionalow hills covered by vineyards, as well as steep, sandy slopes alonthe banks o the Danube. Te romantic quality o the plains is atits most enchanting in the area around the small village o opoljeHere, in the solitude o a backwater o the Danube, there stands thesmall church o Saints Peter and Paul, built in 1722 by the amousPrince Eugen o Savoy in gratitude or the great victory achieveover the Osmanlis (24).Te beauty o Baranjas vineyards can best be sensed in the villageo Zmajevac (25), where its unique wine cellars (27) have beendug into the thick strata created through centuries o sedimenta-


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tion caused by the passage o winds across the limitless Pannoniansteppe. Many will say that the vineyards and wine cellars in the re-gion o Srijem (29) are even more beauti ul. Tese are located in the

ar eastern part o Slavonia. Here, near the easternmost Croatian

town o Ilok, the romantic vineyards, practically extending over theDanube itsel (28), are amous themselves, but their wine, Ilokitraminac (the raminac o Ilok), is even more amous. Wine grow-

ing is signi cant or the western part o Slavonia as well, especiaaround the town o Kutjevo (26) in the Poega Valley. Inspired byits ertility and beauty, the ancient Romans named it Vallis Aurea,(Golden Valley). Kutjevo is the town with the amous 13th-century

wine cellar that was once visited by many members o the nobil-ity, most amous among them being Empress Maria Teresa o theHouse o Hapsburg.


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DALMATIA - ZADARCentre of the Croatian Adriatic at the foot of the monarch of Croatian mountainsDalmatia is the southernmost and the worlds best known Croatian region. Tis is a region o sun, warm seas, lush, evergreen veg-etation, olives, wine, sh, song and enchanting places with stone built houses: the real Mediterranean. Starting rom the north and heading southwards, Dalmatia begins at the southern edge o the monarch o Croatian mountains: Velebit. Here, in the very centreo the Croatian Adriatic, is the rst o our Dalmatian tourist regions: the Dalmatia - Zadar Region.


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Tis region, encompassing the County o Zadar, the most northern o Dalmatian counties, has three acets: mountainous, littoral and islands

Te mountainous area covers the southern part o the Velebit NaturePark and the Paklenica National Park. Te main attraction o the littoralarea and its ertile hinterland is Vransko jezero (Vransko Lake) whilthe pride o the well indented island area is yet another pearl o natur

elaica Nature Park.Having set o down the Adriatic tourist road hugging the coastline, wethen come to the Zadar region o Dalmatia, via the road at the ooo Velebit. I , however, our journey began rom the continental part Croatia, then we see Dalmatia only once we have gone through Velebitby way o the Sveti Rok tunnel on the Zagreb-Split motorway, or wehave crossed any o the nearby Velebit passes. In either case, the rst sithat will open be ore us is a magni cent view o the River Zrmanja (1a karstic beauty with an abundance o rapids and water alls (5). No lebeauti ul are the water alls along its tributary, the River Krupa (7). Iturn our eyes westwards, the view o the rugged, stark beauty o the robound desolation o the island o Pag is simply magni cent (8).It was the same in the distant past, when the rst roads were being constructed, including the most important or Dalmatia, known as theNapoleonic Road, built during the brie period o French rule at thebeginning o the 19th century. Tis road, which today is in a state odilapidation, passes through wild and craggy terrain, with the only wit-nesses to mans presence being monuments to the builders o Velebitroads (11), old small bridges (4), houses long deserted (9) and a ew tin

churches. Rising above the interesting church o St Francis (6) and thnewly built church dedicated to the Homeland War (3) is one o themost beauti ul parts o Velebit: ulove grede (2) (grede: cli s). Locat


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on the other side o Velebit, in the small area o Lika that belongto Zadar, are what many consider to be the most beauti ul caves in

Croatia: Cerovake spilje (10) (Cerovac caves).Te greatest natural jewel o the Zadar area is PAKLENICA Nation-al Park, which covers the most attractive parts o Southern Velebitconcentrated in a mere 96 km2. Its most striking eatures are two

orbidding gorges - Velika and Mala Paklenica - gouged into themountain rom the sea, to the bases o Velebits highest peaks (12Te park abounds with bizarre karstic orms, caves and other natural

eatures, as well as a wide range o climatic conditions that has bee ted the wide variety o ora and auna.Despite its wild nature, Paklenica is easily accessible by virtue o iproximity to the Adriatic ourist Road and the highway. Te vistaso Velebit rising above the resort o Starigrad-Paklenica (13), whicare at once intimidating and alluring, beckon to those tourists seek-ing light-hearted adventure. Movement through the park is aided


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by numerous signs in several oreign languages (14). Trough thewild ruggedness o Velika Paklenica, where highland women onccarried salt on their backs rom the coast and brought wheat romthe ertile hinterland o Lika, today runs a com ortably negotiabhiking trail (22).In part the trail runs at the oot o sheer crags where, a long time agosmall tunnels were carved through the living rock (26). Once out othe canyon, it climbs a gentle course across meadows (28) throughthe wooded slopes o Velebit (30). Tis makes it an excellent walk

or people o all ages and enables children (19), and indeed not onlchildren, to learn a great deal about the surrounding nature romthe numerous in ormation and interpretation boards (18). Whenthirst strikes, the traveller can reely drink rom the water generousprovided by the numerous pure mountain springs (16). Among the multitude o caves, the most beauti ul is Manita Pe(15 & 24), while among the world o auna, the most attractiveare various types o butter y (17) and birds o prey (21). As theslandscapes are somewhat similar to those ound in the AmericanWild West, it is no wonder that they have attracted quite a ew

lm makers o European Westerns, in particular the makers o thlm version o Karl Mays Winnetou.

Tis is also an ideal location or bird watchers, who are able to useseveral well prepared hides (39).Te waters o the lake are brackish, which means that the sh oundin it are o both reshwater and sea varieties - a veritable paradise anglers (33 & 35). Te lake can be toured by boat, allowing accessto its swamp areas that either cannot be approached rom land (32& 41) or are otherwise difcult to get to (31).Te third nature park located in the Zadar region o Dalmatia is

ELAICA, located in the south o Dugi otok, the largest o all oZadars islands. Tis deep bay is one o the most popular havens oyachtsmen in the Adriatic, which provides a sa e berth during thestrongest o storms (43). Te rocky shores o the bay are low on thelandward side (46), while acing out to sea are imposing cli ac(44), in places reaching heights o 180 metres. Nestled between th


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bay and the central attraction o Paklenica is the 400 metre high Ania kuk. Because o its height, sheer sides, beauty and the pos-sibility or climbing throughout the year due to the vicinity o thewarm sea, Ania kuk has become one o the best known Alpinistsites in Europe (23 & 25). Hikers and mountaineers in Paklenica are able to rest in any o several abandoned traditional shepherdshuts (20 & 27), which is particularly welcome be ore a nal assaulton Velebits summit (29).For those who pre er a less physically demanding orm o enjoying the world o nature, the VRANSKO JEZERO (Vrana Lake) NaturePark is tailor-made. Located quite close to the sea, it is centred onthe largest lake in Croatia and is home to an exceptional number o bird species (36 & 37), in particular, wild duck (34) and egrets (38& 40). elaica is approachable by land and partly by road, but orthe most part via the hiking trails through picturesque Mediterra-nean landscapes (45).


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Located in the north o Dugi otok is Soliica, another deep bay atthe entrance to which rises the imposing Veli Rat lighthouse (47).

From this point one can easily reach the numerous small islandso the Zadar archipelago. Most islands have only one village andare there ore spared the nuisance o motorised road vehicles, as orinstance, the island o Ist (48). Uninhabited islands are more numer-ous, which allows would be Robinson Crusoes to nd their very own lonely little island (49).Te mainland shores around Zadar are renowned or the large num-ber o sandy beaches. Te majority are concentrated around the oldtown o Nin (50 & 52), but they can also be ound at the oot o Velebit (51). Rising opposite Velebit, against the bora lashed coast, isthe barren ruggedness o Pags Dalmatian karst (53 & 55).

Te special quality o this part o Dalmatia is two deep bays, knownas the Novigrad Sea and the Karin Sea, both linked to the open sea

via narrow straits. Te passage between the Novigrad Sea and theVelebit channel, open to the elements, has been spanned by twobridges, although there are none in the passage between the Karinand Novigrad Seas (54). Occupying a sheltered position on thepicturesque shores o the Karin Sea is an old Franciscan monaster(56).


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DALMATIA - IBENIKUnique and magical world of water, stone and sea


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From Zadar southwards the well indented archipelago o Northern Dalmatia grows evermore ragmented, until it turns into the spell binding intricacy o the Kornati islands o stone, strewn across the blue expanse o the sea, and instead o the River Zrmanja, it isthe River Krka that weaves its green magic in the rock bound bleakness o the Dalmatianhinterland. In other words, the two national parks, Kornati and Krka, thought by many to be the most precious natural jewels o the whole o Dalmatia, are located in the smallregion o Dalmatia-ibenik. Te region camprises just one county, the County o ibenik-

Knin, which has been named a ter its two largest towns, one at the source and the other atthe con uence o the Krka.Te generosity o nature in these parts is equally evident in the relatively small but numer-ous islands o the so richly indented ibenik archipelago (10). Apart rom the best knowno these islands, the Kornati and their sheer cli s (4), there is Murter, the island o itskeepers and amous shermen, Zlarin and its renowned coral hunters; tiny Krapanj, andits equally well known sponge harvesters, and Kaprije, a yachtsmans Mecca. ibenik, thecapital o the county, is reached through the labyrinth o the narrow Sveti Ante channel (6& 9) and rom there, onwards through the canyon o the Krka (2) towards its water alls(1 & 5).Te eyes o those travelling through the littoral o Dalmatias ibenik region are also drawnto the vineyards o Primoten, which represent a unique example o what diligent hu-mans can wrest rom harsh, unyielding stone (3 & 7), so much so that a photograph o them can be seen hanging in the UNESCO building. Te beauty o the hinterland to thiswondrous place is no less alluring, or in addition to the Krka there are the peaks o the

Dinara (8), the highest Croatian mountain,and numerous ruins in the rocky desolationo the karstic interior.However, the avourite destination in theibenik area or nature lovers is the RIV-ER KRKA National Park, located next toPlitvice Lakes, the countrys most popularnational park. Te Krka water alls, justlike those o the Plitvice Lakes, result romtravertine sedimentation. Te national park

covers the major part o the course o thisamazing river and in addition to naturalmonuments, it abounds with cultural andhistorical monuments. Te most outstand-

ing o these is the Franciscan monastery on the tiny island o Visovac, set like a preciousstone in the middle o a lake widening in the river (11). Within the monastery there is a picture gallery (14) and a church (15) whose origins can be traced back to the 14th cen-tury.In the middle o the canyon, upstream o the river, is the interesting Krka Orthodox mon-astery; while on the high ground above the river sit several old ruins. A magnet or visitorsare the old mills (16) which have been trans ormed into small ethnographic museums (18)where one can see how wheat was ground in olden days (17). Demonstrations are given

by interpreters o history, dressed in traditional olk costumes (19), which is particularly interesting and entertaining or children, who are requent visitors to this park (12).Te main attraction o the Krka National Park is its seven water alls. Te widest o these isRoki slap, although Skradinski buk is the biggest and most well known. Roki slap (20 &28) is urther enhanced by its impressive ambiance, the lo ty canyon cli s in its immediatevicinity and the lush greenery o its surroundings (23). Still more imposing is Skradinskibuk (21 & 22) whose seventeen steps extend to a length o 800 metres, with a total altitudedi erence o 46 metres.It is small wonder that most visitors gather around those two water alls or, in addition tobeing able to enjoy the magic and roar o the water, one can also enjoy walks through a myriad o paths which, or the most part, ollow ancient trails, testi ed to by the numer-ous little old bridges (24). All around Roki slap and Skradinski buk are numerous resting places, the most avoured being those in ront o old stone houses set in the shade o thesurrounding trees (30).


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O the seventy two kilometres o the Krkas course, abouttwo thirds run through a canyon (26), and the remaindero its course is as wide as a lake (27). Te widest part sur-rounds the island o Visovac (25). Te blue hues o the riverand the greenery o its banks seem like a mirage against the

surrounding waterless limestone plateau, watched over by ancient ruins (31). Beyond the charming little town o Sk-radin (29), which happens to be the avourite starting point

or boat trips to the park (32), the Krka gradually widens,rst into Prokljansko jezero (Prokljansko Lake) and then

into a deep sea bay, towards the city o ibenik.Te beauty o the Kornati, the other crown jewel o theDalmatian region o ibenik and the most richly indentedarchipelago in the Mediterranean, is in no way overshad-owed by the Krka. Te only reason that the Kornati donot attract as many visitors lies in the act that they can bereached only by water, a ter a relatively long boat journey.Te KORNA I archipelago consists o 140 uninhabitedislands and ree s with a total area o only 70 km2. Tey are amous or the peculiar shapes o ree s and crags anparticularly or their high cli s (34). Tere are those whoclaim that the number o the smaller islands is greater, sincean old saying goes: As is the number o days in a year, so ithe number o the Kornati islands (33).Te largest part o the park is accounted or by the mainisland: Kornat (35), a ter which the whole island group isnamed. Due to the dangers involved in sailing through thismaze o stone and sea, there are many old lighthouses in theKornati, such as Blitvenica (36) and Sestrice (39), which to-day are destinations or would be Robinson Crusoes. Tebiggest ans o the Kornati are yachtsmen, who nd in thisarea that which they seek most: a sun soaked warren o seaand islands set in unspoilt nature. Yachtsmen are able to nd sa e anchorage in the numerousprotected natural coves (37), in Pikera Marina (the only one in the park) (38) and in the ten marinas around thepark. Fish specialties o the local cuisine can be savoured inthe marinas and in any o the several inns which exist in theold houses o shermen rom the surrounding islands (41).Te special eatures o the Kornati National Park are its nu-merous old ruins and hill orts, many dating rom Illyriantimes, like ureta (42), the largest o them all. It is not only

the sur ace o the land and sea which is o interest in thisarchipelago, but also its underwater world (40), which is a very popular destination or many divers (43).


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DALMATIA - SPLITHeart of the Mediterranean Although the ofcial ( or want o a better word) natural sites o Dalmatia are located in its northern area, it is in its central part,

around the City o Split, where the true heart lies. Tis, the larg-est Dalmatian tourist region, encompasses what is also the countryslargest county, the County o Split-Dalmatia. Te main Dalmatianislands are situated in its waters, as are several rivieras with lovely beaches and the imposing rugged mountains which rise practically right rom the shores, while the broad hinterland contains a widerange o very precious natural heritage sites. I , as many claim, Dal-matia is the true Mediterranean, then it is its central part, around Split, that is the heart o the whole o the Mediterranean.Te area around Split is the most densely populated and, culturally andhistorically, the richest in this part o Dalmatia. Understandably, there are

no major areas which have remained in their original natural state. Tereis just one nature park: Biokovo Mountain, and there are no nationalparks. However, this does not mean that Central Dalmatia is withoutnatural beauty or protected areas. On the contrary, it is here that Hvar,one o the ten most beauti ul islands in the world, is situated, and here,on the island o Bra and along the Makarska Riviera, that one can enjoy the most beauti ul beaches o the Adriatic. It is here that the magicalRiver Cetina ows and the unique lakes o Imotski and the amazing BlueCave on the island o Bievo are located. Te Blue Cave competes withCapri or sheer beauty. Te most ar ung Adriatic islands o Jabuka andPalagrua also belong to this part o Dalmatia, as do many other smallerprotected areas: special reserves, park-woods, natural monuments...Here, natural beauty is linked not only with its more remote islands andhigh mountains, but also with the greenery with which its capital, Split,


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greets all those who visit. Regardless o the direction rom which it isapproached, whether via the highway leading rom the hinterland, along the Adriatic ourist Route rom the coast, or by plane or boat, the rst

eature to be noticed, right by the city centre, is green Mount Marjan(4). Tis wonder ul embellishment o the city, its precious green lungs,has been celebrated in numerous songs. When the citizens o Split wishto ee the urry o urban li e, they escape to the green oasis o Marjan,walking, jogging along its paths (3), enjoying the vistas o their belovedcity, or simply resting on the shores edged by the greenery o the moun-tains oothills (1).Moving southwards down the coast rom Split, we soon come upon itsmost beauti ul and best liked tourist destination, the Makarska Riviera

(6). Natural pebble beaches, bordered on one side by crystal clear blueseas and on the other by lush vegetation (2) at the oot o the craggy heights o Mount Biokovo, attract countless tourists. Tis imposing mountain is by ar the greatest sight o the Central Dalmatian coastline,and its only nature park. Tere are ew places in the Mediterranean wherepeaks o over 1,500 metres in height come so close to the sea and wheremountains rise so steeply and so high as they do here. Since the world o nature on Biokovo has been preserved in its virginal state, it is the belie o many that Biokovo should in act be declared Croatias ninth nationalpark.However, it is the orbidding and inhospitable peaks o Biokovo (5) thatbestow upon the coast an ever so welcome reshness during the heat o summer, as well as pro ering a whole range o natures gi ts to its true lov-ers. Apart rom resh air and the atmosphere o unsullied nature, Biokovohas beauti ul hiking and cycling trails (9 & 13), pleasant resting places(12) and interesting historical remains dating rom the times when many shepherds (11) roamed this difcult terrain. oday, the nature park, in-cluding its highest peak, the 1,758 metre high Sveti Jure, can be reachedby road, either rom the shores o the Makarska Riviera or rom Dalm-atinska Zagoras hinterland. With a little luck, visitors to Biokovo can catch a sight o chamois (7),the trade mark o this mighty mountain, as well as other protected ani-mal species (10). All along the routes, strange karstic orms (17), deep

karstic sinkholes (19) and a number o other natural phenomena charac-teristic o a karst area are to be seen. However, the most alluring aspector those who come to Biokovo is the breathtaking views (8 & 15) o


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the Makarska Riviera, with its lovely beaches and picturesque villages (18). Also, rom Biokovo it is possible tosee all the large islands o Central Dalmatia, particularly Bra and Hvar (14 & 20). Te vistas extend into thehinterland o rugged, orested Dalmatinska Zagora (16).Should we opt instead to move inland in search o more o natures gi ts, there are many pleasant surprisesawaiting us. One o the most beauti ul prizes or diligent seekers o beauty is the magni cent Peruko jezero(Perua Lake) at the oot o the peaks o Dinara (21). Tis man made lake, so vitally important or the supply o water to the insatiably thirsty karstic areas o Dalmatia and its ertile elds (27), is ed by the waters o theCetina, Central Dalmatias main river. Te unspoiled source o this river attracts people with the reshness andverdacity o its clear waters (24). Also attractive are its banks (29) and buildings in the immediate vicinity, suchas the church in the village o Cetina (28). Te downstream course o the river abounds with rapids, making itextremely popular with the ra ting raternity (23).However, by ar the most striking natural phenomena o the Dalmatian hinterland are the LAKES o IMO SKI. Set amid harsh karst, as i drilled by some gigantic boring machine, several huge water- lled holesreach deep into the bowels o the earth. Te most beauti ul o these is Modro jezero (Blue Lake) (22 &25),which is located virtually in the town o Imotski. Te lake, which is 500 metres wide and more than 200 metresdeep, is named a ter its unique blue colour and is a avourite bathing site or the people o Imotski.More unusual is Crveno jezero (Red Lake) (26), itsel named a ter the surrounding red rock. It is more than 200metres rom the edge o the hole down to the sur ace o the lake, and a urther 300 metres to the bottom o thelake, making it the deepest lake in Croatia.

In the Split region o Dalmatia, some people are more attracted to the wildernesses o Biokovo and Dalmatinska Zagora, others pre er the beaches o the Makarska Riviera, but most people opt or the islands. Lined along theront o the shores o Central Dalmatia, going south, are several smaller and larger islands, each o them a story


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croatia (in english)

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