croatia lonely

8/12/2019 Croatia Lonely

1/16

PLANYOUR TRIP

Welcome to Croatia ....... 2

Map .................................. 4

17 Top Experiences ........ 6

Need to Know ................. 14

Whats New ..................... 16

If You Like... ..................... 17

Month by Month ............. 19

Itineraries ........................ 22

Travel with Children ...... 30

Regions at a Glance ....... 33

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTANDCROATIA

Croatia Today ................. 276

History ............................. 279

Culture & People ............ 294

The Cuisine ..................... 299

Architecture in Croatia.... 305

The NaturalEnvironment.................... 308

The Arts........................... 311

Croatia Today

rand New to the EU cariously poised between the Balkans and Central Europe, Croatia

something of a love-hate affair with the outside world, including it

oor neighbours. Perhaps unsurprisingly, Croatia joining the EU

opened a can of worms. Slovenia keeps nitpicking and co

or Croatia; and with Europe heaving under the delaying discomfort about extending the borde

ings arent simple either. In January

te in the referendum on

USACROATIA

population per

30 people

Vegans se isJa ne jedem meso(I dont eat meat), b

rved soup with bits of bacon swimming in it.

g and vegetarians are making inroads in Croatia, b

ostly happening in the larger cities. Zagreb, Rijeka, Split

vnik now have vegetarian restaurants, and even standard resta

the big cities are beginning to offer vegetarian menus. Vegeta

ay have a harder time in the north (Zagorje) and the east (Slavon

where traditional fare has meat as its main focus. Specialities that do

use meat include manetra od bobia(bean and fresh maize soup) an

THE OLIVE OIL BOOM OF ISTRIA

Theres an olive tree on Veli Brijun in the Brijuni Islands proven to be 16

Early Greek and Roman manuscripts praised the quality of Istrian oliv

revival of this ancient agricultural activity, with 94 listed growers on th

and a network of signposted olive oil roads. In Istria, the plant is culti

attention, and each tree given love and care. Several growers have r

international awards and top marks for their fruity nectars, which i

mpetitive world olive oil market.

uilio Beliis a relative newbie on the scene. The son of a m

nt on to become a successful Zagreb businesspers

. With his wife, Bosiljka, an agriculture specia

e ago and started what has becom

Istria, with a total of .

Croatias Brand of

Tourism

Despite its reputation as Europesvac-

ation hotspot,Croatiahasntgivenin to

masstourism. TheMediterranean As It

OnceWasmotto ofCroatiastourist board

maybe overblownin populardestinations

wheredevelopmenthas takena rmhold,but pockets of authentic culture can be

found andtheres stillplentyto discover

o thegrid. Thiscountryin transition,

onthe brinkbetween Mitteleuropa and

Mediterranean,oersgoodnewsforvisi-

torsonallbudgets:Croatiaisas diverseas

itslandscapes.Someofthemorepopular

Adriaticlocalescome withheftyprice tags

in thesummer months,whilecontinental

Croatiacostsa fractionofwhatyoullpay

onthe coast.The chicand trendyoutposts

maymakeyouforgetthata civilwarraged

throughCroatiainthe 1990s.The wayin

whichthe countryhas bouncedback is a

signof itspeoplesresilience peoplewho

areremarkablehostsonceyou cross the

touristlocalbarrier.

Coastal Croatia

Theresabuzzand anundeniablestarap-

pealtoCroatiascoast.Youllget glitzand

glamour in Dubrovnik andHvar, where

nightactionand celebrity-spotting,design-

ercocktailin hand,isde rigueur,andfancy

yachtsdock in droves.For thosewanting

peaceand quiet,hideawaysaplentywaitto

Welcome toCroatia

All youve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

275

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

Zagorje

MedievalCastlesArchitectureCountryside

MedievalCastlesPostcard-perfectfairy-tale

castlesdotthe woodedhills

ofthisbucolic region.The

neo-GothicTrakoanoffersanintimateinsight into

thelifeof formerCroatian

nobility,whiletheformid-

ableVelikiTabor,complete

withtowers,turretsand

othercastletrimmings,

looksdownfroma verdant

hilltop.

ArchitectureSoakup thebaroquearchi-

tectureofVaradin.Its 18th-

centurybuildingsshine

brightin theirfully restored

glory,withfacadesfreshly

paintedinthe original

pastels:ochres,pinks,pale

bluesandcreams.

CountrysideTheprettypastoral

panoramasofZagorjes

vineyard-coveredhills,

cornfields,denseforestsand

gingerbreadcottagesarethe

stuffofstorybooks.Savour

traditionalCroatianfarm

lifeas itunfoldsaway from

thetouristhullabaloodown

south.

p68

Zagreb

Cafe CultureMuseums & Galleries Food

CafeCultureAbastionof Europesfamed

cafeculture,Zagrebsside-

walkcafesare perennially

packed(exceptin winter),

offeringstrongcoffeethat

packsa punch,andthe

chancetolazily lingerover

acupforhoursonend.

Theprimetime toexperi-

encethisisduringthe

coffee-sippingand people-

watchingritualknownas

pica,whichhappenson

warm-weatherSaturday

mornings,wheneveryone

andtheirmother comes

outto showofftheirlatest

outfits.

Museums & GalleriesZagrebsculturalflag-

ship,theswishMuseum

ofContemporaryArt,

hasbroughtan artistic

flavourtothe citys

streetscapes,while the

newquirkyMuseumof

BrokenRelationships

hasquicklybecomea

favourite.Thentherearetheold-timers,suchas

theMimaraMuseum,

witha massivecollection

ofpaintingand sculp-

ture,and thedelightful

CroatianMuseumof

NaveArt.Totapintothe

contemporaryart beat

pulsatingthroughthe

city,dontmissthe inde-

pendentgalleryspaces

thatput oncutting-edge

shows.

FoodOnthefood front,there

isplentyto explorein

Croatiascapital,which

hasbecomea foodiedes-

tinationinrecent years.

Ahandfulof destination

restaurantsshowcasein-

novativeculinaryspecial-

itiespreparedwith high-

qualityingredientsfrom

aroundthecountry,while

inexpensivetavernsserve

no-frillsbutreal-dealtra-

ditionalfareto acquaint

p38

regionsat aglance

33

Need to

KnowCurrency

Kuna(KN)

Language

Croatian

High Season(Jul & Aug)

Peakseasonbrings

thebestweather.HvarIsland gets the

most sun,followed bySplit,Korula Islandand Dubrovnik.

Prices areat theirhighest and coastaldestinations at their

busiest.

Shoulder(MayJun& Sep)

Thecoastis

gorgeous,theAdriaticiswarmenough

forswimming,thecrowdsaresparseandpricesare lower.

Inspringandearlysummer,thesteady

maestralwindmakes

sailing great.

Low Season(OctApr)

Winters in

continentalCroatiaarecold and prices

arelow.

Southeasterlywinds produce

heavycloudcover;northeasterlies bringpowerfulgustsof dry

airandblowawayclouds.

When to Go?

#

#

#

#

Warmtohotsummers,mildwinters

Warmtohotsummers,coldwinters

Mildsummers,coldwinters

ZagrebGOMayJul,SepOct

RijekaGOMaySep

SplitGOAprOct

DubrovnikGOAprOct

Your DailyBudget

Budget less than

450KN Private

accommodation;dormbedsaround150KN

Plentyof marketsforself-caterers

Cheap taverns,pizza

and ice-cream

Lotsoffree activities

Midrange

450900KN Doubleroomin a

midrangehotel

Meals in decentrestaurants and drinks

at night

Atourortwo,plusactivities

Top end over

900KN Smallboutique

hotels and four-starproperties

Meals in top-tier

restaurants

Spa treatments

Tours,trips and carrental

14

KrkaNationalParkKornati

Islands

#

#

#

Solin

PlitviceLakesNationalPark

#

#

#

#

#

_

LOVENIA

HUNGAR

S

BOSNIA&

HERCEGOVINA

PagIsland

Trogir

Zadar

Split

i

ZAGREB

IA TI C

EA

#

I S B N 9 7 8 - 1 - 7 4 2 2 0 - 3 0 2 - 7

9 7 8 1 7 4 2 2 0 3 0 2 7

99525

Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd



2/16

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Anja Mutiand Vesna Maric

_

Zagorjep68

Kvarnerp131

NorthernDalmatia

p167

Split &

CentralDalmatia

p196Dubrovnik &

Southern

Dalmatiap242

Slavoniap81

Zagrebp38

Istriap95

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVALGUIDE

Directory AZ ................. 318

Transport ........................ 326

Language ........................ 332

Index ................................ 340

Map Legend .................... 351

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE

ROAD

nder7KN

,including

mpaniespanies listed here

ong the largest.

otrans % www.autotrans.hr) Based

Rijeka.Connections totria,Zagreb, Varadin andvarner.

rioni Pula ;www.brioni. r Based in Pula.Connections to Istria,Padua,Split,Trieste and Zagreb.

Contus ( 023 317 06 2)ased in Zadar. Connections

Split and Zagreb.

oatiabus - ;w.croatiabus. r Connectsreb with towns in Zagorje

stria.

orek (% 1-48 19.samoborcek.hr)

eb with towns in

edulestick-

y ea rs o a nsome routes much faster.Itis unknown when the auto-routeis expected to reachDubrovnik.Zagreb and Rijekaare now connected by motor-way,and an Istrian motorwayhas shortened the travel timeto Italy considerably.

Although the new roadsare in excellent condition,there are stretches whereservice stations and facilitiesare scarce.

Note that if you are usingthe motorway to go south

daOtherity for davehicle is uas a percentavalue,beginning2000KN.

Driving LicenAnyvaliddrivinglicenficienttodrivelegallyaacar; aninternationallicenceisnot necessar

The Hrvatski Auto(HAK,CroatianAutoClub;

; ww w. a . r ; ve nubrovni offershelp

advice.Togethelponthroad,youcan contact

OAD DISTANCES KM

7

566340

394216

1

495

---

PAGE

36

PAGE

317


3/16

Look out for these icons:

Our authors toprecommendation

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and theirfavourite places are listed first

A green orsustainable option No paymentrequired

ZAGREB . . . . . . . . . . . .38

AROUND ZAGREB . . . . . . . . 65Medvednica Nature Park . . .65Samobor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

ZAGORJE . . . . . . . . . . . 68

Varadin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Varadinske Toplice . . . . . . . 75Trakoan Castle . . . . . . . . .76Krapina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77

Veliki Tabor Castle . . . . . . . .79Kumrovec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Klanjec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Marija Bistrica . . . . . . . . . . 80

SLAVONIA . . . . . . . . . . 81

Osijek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84Baranja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90Vukovar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92Ilok . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

ISTRIA . . . . . . . . . . . . .95

THE ISTRIAN COAST . . . . . . 97Pula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98Brijuni Islands . . . . . . . . . . .105Rovinj . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106Around Rovinj . . . . . . . . . . . 112

Pore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113THE ISTRIAN INTERIOR . . 118Labin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Vodnjan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Svetvinenat . . . . . . . . . . . .122Pazin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123Graie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Buzet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125


4/16

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Around Buzet . . . . . . . . . . . 127Motovun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128

Istarske Toplice . . . . . . . . . .129Gronjan. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130

KVARNER . . . . . . . . . . 131

KVARNER COAST . . . . . . . . 133Rijeka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133Opatija . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139Volosko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142

KRK ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . 143Krk Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Punat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Vrbnik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Baka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148

CRES & LOINJISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Cres Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .149Loinj Island . . . . . . . . . . . .155

RAB ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . 160Rab Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Lopar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .166

NORTHERNDALMATIA . . . . . . . . . 167

ZADAR REGION . . . . . . . . . 169Zadar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .169

Ugljan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Plitvice LakesNational Park . . . . . . . . . . . 177Paklenica NationalPark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .179Starigrad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180

DUGI OTOK . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Sali . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182

Telaica Bay . . . . . . . . . . .183Boava . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .183

PAG ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . 184Pag Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .184Novalja . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .186

IBENIK-KNINREGION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187ibenik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Krka National Park . . . . . . .193Kornati Islands . . . . . . . . . .194

SPLIT & CENTRALDALMATIA . . . . . . . . . 196

SPLIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197

AROUND SPLIT. . . . . . . . . . 215olta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .215Solin (Salona) . . . . . . . . . . .216

TROGIR & AROUND . . . . . . 216

Trogir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .216Around Trogir . . . . . . . . . . 220

MAKARSKA RIVIERA . . . . . 221Makarska . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .221Brela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224

BRAISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . 224Supetar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226Bol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227

HVAR ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . .230Hvar Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230Stari Grad . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235Jelsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236

VIS ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237Vis Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .237Komia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240Bievo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .241

DUBROVNIK &SOUTHERN

DALMATIA . . . . . . . . .242DUBROVNIK . . . . . . . . . . . .244

AROUND DUBROVNIK . . . . 260Lokrum Island . . . . . . . . . . 260Elafiti Islands . . . . . . . . . . 260Mljet Island . . . . . . . . . . . . .261Cavtat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263Trsteno Gardens . . . . . . . . 264

KORULA ISLAND . . . . . . .264Korula Town . . . . . . . . . . . 265Lumbarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270Vela Luka . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271

PELJEACPENINSULA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272Orebi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272Ston & Mali Ston . . . . . . . .273


5/16

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SLOVENIA

'

PeruckoJezero

KvarnerGulf

Una

Sava

Drava

Kupa

Zabok

ITALY

Portogruaro

Knin

Ptuj

Labin

CivitanovaMarche

Glina

NovoMesto

BosanskoPetrovac

Pazin

Portoro

Rovinj

Zadar

ibenik

Karlovac

Varadin

Sisak

Senigallia

Monfalcone

Petrinja

Pula

Bihac

AscoliPiceno

Pesaro

Macerata

Split

Ancona

Pescara

Teramo

Trieste

Rijeka

LJUBLJANA

ZAGREB

atorina

(1623m)

V Planik(1272m)

Obru

Vievica(1428m)

45N

44N

43N

16E

15E

14E

13E

Krk

Vaganski(1623m)

44N

16E

A D R I A T I C S E A

Istria

Food and wine-infuseddolce vita(p95)

ZagorjeTake in postcard-pretty

hilltop castles (p68)

ZagrebPartake in happeningcafe culture (p38)

SplitWander through buzzingDiocletians Palace (p206)

Rt KamenjakWild cape of otherworldly

beauty (p101)

BievoVisit the blue-lit

sea cave (p241)

Cres Island

Raw, mysterious andwildlife-rich (p149)

ZadarHip, ancient and

down to earth (p169)

Paklenica National Park

Hike highalpine peaks (p179)

Graac

Otoca

akovec

Croatia


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SERBIA

HUNGARY

MONTENEGRO

BOSNIA &

HERZEGOVINA

Sava

Neretva

Neum

abac

Livno

Konjic

SlavonskaPozega

Subotica

Metkovic

Nagykanizsa

Prijedor

BackaPalankaakovo

Sinj Gorade

Naice

Virovitica

Mostar

Cacak

Trebinje

Herceg Novi

Nikic

Mohacs

Jajce

Koprivnica

Kutina Vukovar

SremskaMitrovica

NovaGradika Vinkovci

Bjelovar

Travnik

Pcs

NoviSad

Dubrovnik

SlavonskiBrod

BanjaLuka

Osijek

BELGRADE

SARAJEVO

Kapavac(790m)

18E

17E

0 100 km0 50 miles#e

500m

700m

1000m

1500m

300m

200m

100m

0

ELEVATION

Korula

17E

DubrovnikAn exercise in history and

heart-stopping beauty (p244)

Mljet IslandHeavenly isle with

cobalt-coloured lakes (p261)

Hvar TownHoity-toity parties

on the beach (p230)

BolHit the wavesoff Bra (p227)

Plitvice Lakes

National ParkLush, watery paradise (p177)

Kopaki RitBirdwatchersparadise (p90)

Brko

#]Szeged

Top Experiences


7/16

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-

able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty aboutthe accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-

mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense ofadventure. In 1972 thats all Tony and Maureen Wheeler neededfor the trip of a lifetime across Europe and Asia overland toAustralia. It took several months, and at the end broke butinspired they sat at their kitchen table writing and staplingtogether their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap.Within a week theyd sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London,Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tonys belief that a greatguidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 983

7th edition April 2013

ISBN 978 1 74220 302 7

Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs as indicated 2013

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Printed in China

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic,mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without thewritten permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patentand Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such

as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Anja MutiCoordinating Author, Zagreb, Zagorje, Slavonia, Istria, Split & Central DalmatiaIts been more than two decades since Anja left her native Croatia. The journeytook her to several countries before she made New York City her base 13 yearsago. But the roots are acalling. Shes been returning to Croatia frequently for

work and play, intent on discovering a new place on every visit, be it a naturepark, an offbeat town or a remote island. Shes happy that Croatias beauties

are appreciated worldwide, but secretly longs for the time when you could head to Hvar andhear the sound of crickets instead of blasting music. Anja also wrote the Welcome to Croatia,17 Top Experiences, Need to Know, Whats New, If You Like, Month by Month, Itineraries, Regionsat a Glance, Croatia Today, Culture & People andThe Cuisine chapters.

Vesna MaricKvarner, Northern Dalmatia, Dubrovnik & Southern Dalmatia Vesna was born inMostar, Bosnia and Hercegovina, but has always cherished the Adriatic coast

above all other places. Getting a chance to revisit her beloved Dubrovnik andZadar, and discover the Kvarner coast and islands, has made her fall in lovewith Croatia all over again, despite the numerous sea urchins determined tomake their way into her heels. For this edition, she particularly loved wander-

ing the tiny streets of Rab Town, swimming off quiet coves on the islands of Loinj and Cres, andtasting sushi in Dubrovnik, all with her two-year-old in tow. Vesna also wrote the Travel with Children,History, The Natural Environment, The Arts, Directory AZ and Transport chapters.

Read more about Anja at:lonelyplanet.com/members/anjamutic


8/16

ItinerariesEssential CroatiaTwo WeeksTake in the heavyweights of Croatia in this two-week journey from the

continent to the coast, including the capital city, a pair of national parks

and the gems of the Dalmatian coast.

Start in the capital, Zagreb (p38), and

take a long weekend to delve into its sim-mering nightlife, fine restaurants and choicemuseums.

Head south to the World-Heritage-listedPlitvice Lakes National Park(p177) andspend the day exploring its verdant maze ofturquoise lakes and cascading waterfalls.

Go down to Zadar (p169), one ofCroatias most underrated cities. Its a realfind: historic, modern, active and packed

with attractions. Take a day trip to Pag Island(p184) and

try some of that famous cheese. If its theheight of summer, go partying on one of itsbeaches.

Swim under the stupendous falls at Krka

National Park(p193) or chill out at the gor-geous Kornati Islands (p194).

Stroll through the pretty streets of post-card-perfect Trogir (p216).

Meander around the Roman ruins of Solin(p216).

Prepare yourself for one of the regionsbest sights: Diocletians Palace in Split(p197) is a living part of this exuberantseafront city.

Next, take it easy down the windingcoastal road to Dubrovnik (p242), a mag-nificent city whose beauty is bound to blowyou away.

22

Clockwise from top left

1 Dalmatian architecture, Trogir (p216) 2 Church of St

Donat, Zadar (p169) 3 Skradinski Buk, Krka National

Park (p193)

KrkaNational

ParkKornatiIslands

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Plitvice LakesNational Park

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SLOVENIA

HUNGARY

ITALY

SERBIA

BOSNIA

&

HERCEGOVINA

MONTENEGRO

PagIsland

Trogir

Zadar

Split

Dubrovnik

ZAGREB

ADRIATIC

SEA

#

IANSHIVE/GETTYIMAGES


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Cream of theCoastTwo WeeksDiscover the stunners of Croatias

coast in two weeks from Istrias

favourite getaways to the jewels

of Kvarner and all the way south

to Dalmatias greatest hits,

both on the mainland and the

islands.

Start your journey in the town of Pore(p113), admiring the World-Heritage-listedEuphrasian Basilica.

Head south for the Venetian-inspiredarchitecture and cobblestone streets ofRovinj (p106).

Move on to Pula(p98) to tour the evoca-tive Roman ruins and amphitheatre, andenjoy some beachside R&R.

Go north, making a pit stop in the oldAustrian resort of Opatija(p139) for a stroll

along the seaside promenade and killerviews of the Kvarner coast.

From nearby Rijeka (p133), Kvarnerscapital, you can take a catamaran to prettyRabTown(p161) on Rab Island. After wan-

dering the ancient town, relax on the aptly

named Paradise Beach at Lopar (p166). Next, visit historic Zadar(p169) for its

wealth of museums, churches, cafes andbars.

Travel south to Split (p197), a buzzingcity and a great base to explore the beachesof Brela(p224) and the nearby islands.

On Bra, visit pretty Bol (p227).

Hop over to chic Hvar Island(p230)and the Pakleni Islands(p232) for some

clothing-optional sunbathing. For a few days of real rest, great food and

plenty of diving, Vis(p237) is your island.

From Split, drive down to Dubrovnik(p242) to explore the citys gleamingmarble streets, vibrant street life and finearchitecture.

Dont miss a hop to the gorgeous island ofMljet (p261), where the verdancy, salt lakes

and tranquillity heal the soul.

24

Lopar

Bol

Vis Island

Opatija

Rab Town

Brela

Hvar Island

Rovinj

Pula

Zadar

Split

Rijeka

Dubrovnik

Mljet

Pore

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CROATIA

ITALY

BOSNIA

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HERCEGOVINA

ADRIATIC

SEA

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1 Old Town, Split (p197) 2 Diving at Vis Island (p238)

3 Opatija (p139) 4 Euphrasian Basilica (p114), Pore


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City & Country:Zagreb &

AroundOne WeekSoak up the delights of the

pocket-size capital of Zagreb and

then head off for green pastures,

old towns and fairy-tale castles.

Start off in Croatias dynamic capital,

Zagreb (p38), to enjoy its museums, art andnightlife.

Head to charming little Samobor(p66)for top-class cakes and countryside treks.

Go forth and explore where not manytourists have gone before in Zagorje (p68),a bucolic landscape of forests, pastures andfarms. Start with Klanjec(p80) and discoverthe art of Antun Augustiniin the townmuseum.

Dont miss the birthplace of Croatiasmost famous son Josip Broz Tito atKumrovec (p80). Its not a communist sitebut a fascinating examination of traditionalvillage life.

To get acquainted with your Neanderthal

ancestors, visit the swanky Museum of theKrapina Neanderthal in Krapina (p77).

If you have a thing for the mystery oftimes past, youll revel in Trakoan Castle(p76) and its verdant grounds.

For more history, head to the beautifullyrestored castle-fortress at Varadin (p69).Immerse yourself in the towns baroquearchitecture for an afternoon.

On the way south, stop at the pilgrimage

site of Marija Bistrica(p80) for heady viewsof the surrounding region.

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MarijaBistrica

Kumrovec

Zagorje

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TrakoanCastle

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SLOVENIA

CROATIA

Samobor

Klanjec

Krapina

Varadin

ZAGREB

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1 Samobor (p66) 2 Zagorje (p68) 3 Dining in

Zagreb (p55) 4 Trakoan Castle (p76)


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