Cruising has opened up Alaska’s once-impenetrable

wilderness to millions

Bren dan Sainsbur y, Cather ine Bodr y, Adam Kar l in , J ohn Lee , Beck y Ohlsen

Glacier Bay National Park (p146) LEMBI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Welcome to AlaskaBears larger than bison, national parks the size of nations, and glaciers bigger than other US states. The word ‘epic’ barely does Alaska justice.Pure, raw, unforgiving and humongous in scale, Alaska is a place that arouses basic instincts and ignites what Jack London termed the ‘call of the wild.’ Yet, unlike London and his gutsy, gold-rush companions, visitors today will have a far easier time penetrating the region’s vast, feral wilderness. Indeed, one of the beauties of the 49th state is its accessibility. Few other places in the US allow you to scale an unclimbed mountain, walk where – quite possibly – no human foot has trodden before, or sally forth into a national park that gets fewer annual visitors than the Interna-tional Space Station.

One of the best gateways to this vast wilderness is the sea. Alaska has 6640 miles of coastline, five times more than any other US state, much of it rugged, unexplored, roadless and patrolled by large, majestic fauna. In recent decades, cruising has opened up Alaska’s once-impenetrable wilderness to millions – and you don’t need to remortgage your house or undergo military-style fitness training to see it. Instead, simply book passage on one of three-dozen cruise ships that ply the Inside Passage, claim a comfortable cabin with an ever-changing view, and hop from port to port letting the misty, frosty, timeless landscapes work their magic.

CRUISE PORTS

ALASKAA G U I D E T O P E R F E C T D AY S O N S H O R E

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

2

Contents

Seattle 35… at a Glance 36

Pike Place Market �����38Space Needle ������������ 40Coffee Culture ���������� 44Historical Pioneer Square Circuit Walking Tour ������������� 46Downtown Architecture Walking Tour ������������� 48 Sights ............................50Tours .............................55Shopping ......................55Eating ............................ 57Drinking & Nightlife ..... 60Entertainment ............. 60Getting There & Away .. 61Getting Around ............. 61Where to Stay ...............63

Vancouver 65… at a Glance 66

Stanley Park ������������� 68Granville Island Public Market�������������70Craft Beer Experience �����������������72Downtown Grand Tour Walking Tour ��������������74 Chinatown Culture & History Crawl Walking Tour ��������������76 Sights ............................78Tours .............................85Shopping ......................85

Eating ............................86Drinking & Nightlife ......88Entertainment ..............89Getting There & Away ..89Getting Around .............89Where to Stay ............... 91

Ketchikan 93… at a Glance 94

Paddling in the Rainforest ���������� 96Ziplining �������������������� 98Totem Poles & Alaska Native Culture ��������������������� 100Misty Fjords National Monument �� 102Sights ..........................104Activities .....................104Tours ...........................104Shopping .................... 107Eating ..........................109Drinking & Nightlife .....110Getting Around ............ 111

Sitka 113… at a Glance 114

Sitka National Historical Park �������� 116Sitka’s Russian & Tlingit Past Walking Tour ������������ 118 Sights .......................... 120Activities ......................121

Tours ........................... 124Shopping .................... 124Eating .......................... 124Drinking & Nightlife .... 124Entertainment ............ 125Getting Around ........... 125

Juneau 127… at a Glance 128

Juneau Day Hikes ����130Mendenhall Glacier ���������������������� 132Salmon Bake at Taku Glacier Lodge ��134Bear Viewing at Pack Creek ���������������136Capitol History Stroll Walking Tour ������������138 Sights .......................... 140Activities ......................141Tours ........................... 142Shopping .................... 142Eating .......................... 143Drinking & Nightlife .... 145Getting Around ........... 145

Glacier Bay National Park 146

Icy Strait Point 150

Petersburg 154

Plan Your Trip

Alaska’s Top 10 .................4Need to Know ................. 16Hot Spots for... ...............18

Local Life........................ 20Month by Month ............ 22Get Inspired ................... 24

Choose Your Cruise ...... 25Sustainable Cruising .... 30Family Time Ashore ...... 32

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KenaiPeninsula

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Aleutian Islands

DenaliNational Park

Kenai FjordsNational Park

Glacier BayNational

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Wrangell-Saint EliasNational Parkand Preserve

Misty FjordsNational Monument

Wilderness

Denali(Mt McKinley)

SEATTLEp35

VANCOUVERp65

SEWARDp207

WHITTIERp191

ANCHORAGEp219

SKAGWAYp173

JUNEAUp127

HAINESp159

SITKAp113

KETCHIKANp93

#e 0 1,000 km0 500 miles

Contents PLAn YoUR tRIP 3

*Haines 159… at a Glance 160

Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve ���������162Jilkaat Kwaan Cultural Heritage Center �������164 Sights .......................... 166Activities ..................... 166Tours ........................... 169Shopping .................... 169Eating .......................... 170Drinking & Nightlife ..... 171Getting Around ............ 171

Skagway 173… at a Glance 174

White Pass Railroad �� 176Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park ��������������������������� 178Gold Rush Skagway Walking Tour ������������180 Sights .......................... 182Activities ..................... 184Tours ........................... 186Shopping .................... 186

Eating .......................... 186Drinking & Entertainment ............ 188Getting Around ........... 189

Whittier 191… at a Glance 192

Portage Pass Trail ���194Glacier Boat Trips ����196Kayaking Around Whittier ��������������������198Sights ......................... 200Activities .....................201Tours .......................... 203Shopping ................... 203Eating ......................... 204Getting There & Away .. 205Getting Around ............. 205

Seward 207… at a Glance 208

Kenai Fjords National Park �����������210Sights .......................... 212Activities ..................... 213

Tours ........................... 216Eating .......................... 216Drinking & Nightlife .... 216Getting There & Around ........................ 217

Anchorage 219… at a Glance 220

Anchorage Museum ��222Anchorage Amble Walking Tour ����������� 224Sights ..........................226Activities .....................227Tours .......................... 229Shopping ................... 230Eating .......................... 231Drinking & Nightlife ....232Entertainment ............232Getting There & Away ........................232Getting Around ...........233

Denali National Park & Preserve 234

In Focus 237Alaska Today ..............238History ....................... 240Alaskan Way of Life ....248Landscapes of Alaska .........................253Alaska Natives ............262Alaskan Wildlife ......... 266Adventure Activities ... 271

Survival Guide 276Directory A–Z .............277Index .......................... 286Symbols & Map Key ..................... 290Our Writers .................292

Totem poleMIHAI STANCIU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

285

Behind the Scenes

AcknowledgementsClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.

This BookThis 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Cruise Ports Alaska guide-book was curated by Brendan Sainsbury and researched and written by Brendan Sainsbury, Catherine Bodry, Adam Karlin, John Lee and Becky Ohlsen. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Alexander HowardProduct Editor Alison RidgwaySenior Cartographer Alison LyallBook Designer Mazzy PrinsepAssisting Editors Bridget Blair, Paul Harding, Victoria Harrison, Jenna MyersAssisting Book Designers Meri Blazevski, Michael WeldonCover Researcher Campbell McKenzieThanks to Liz Heynes, Elizabeth Jones, Kate Mathews, Kathryn Rowan

Send Us Your Feedback

We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guar-antee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition, the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

286

IndexAaccommodations, see Seattle,

Vancouveractivities 20, 32, 271-5, see also

individual activitiesAialik Bay 211Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle

Preserve 162-3Alaska Indian Arts Center 166Alaska Native Heritage Center

226Alaska Rainforest Sanctuary 99Alaska Raptor Center 121Alaska Sealife Center 212Alaska State Museum 140Alaskan Native peoples 18, 241-

2, 248-52, 262-5, see also cultural centers

Alcan, The 245Anchorage 14-15, 219-33, 221,

227, 228Anchorage Museum 222-3animals 266-70, see also

individual speciesarea codes 281-2arts 263-4ATMs 280

Bbaseball 250basketweaving 264Battery Point Trail 167bears 136-7, 266-7, 281Beaver Lake Herring Cove

Loop 123beavers 268beer 72-3, 145, 171, 188Begich Towers 200

Benny Benson Memorial 213Betton Island 96-7bicycle travel, see cyclingbirds 162-3, 270Blackstone Bay 197, 198-9boating 85, 216books 24bookshops 85Buckner Building 200budgeting 17business hours 17, 280-1

CCanada Place 78canoeing 274Capilano Suspension Bridge

Park 83-5caribou 267cell phones 16, 282Chichagof Island 150-3Chief Shakes Island 105Chihuly Garden & Glass 51children, travel with 32-3Chilkoot Pass 185Chilkoot Trail 184climate 16, 238-9Clover Pass 96-7coffee 44-5consulates 278costs 17crafts 263-4credit cards 280Creek Street 104cruise ships

choosing a cruise 25-9sustainable cruising 30-1

cultural centersAlaska Native Heritage

Center 226Jilkaat Kwaan Cultural

Heritage Center 164-5Sealaska Heritage 140

culture 18, 248-52currency 16, 280customs regulations 277cycling 275

Anchorage 227-9Haines 166Mt Seymour 79Seward 213Vancouver 79

Ddangers, see safetyDeer Mountain 110Denali National Park &

Preserve 234-5Dewey Lakes Trail System 184disabilities, travelers with 282-3discount cards 277dog sledding 251dolls 264Dolly’s House 104dolphins 269drinking & nightlife 21, see also

individual locationsDyea 184

Eeagles 162-3, 270economy 239, 247electricity 278embassies 278embroidery 264English Bay Beach 78entertainment 20, see also

individual locationsenvironmental hazards 278-9environmental issues 30-1,

238-9events 22-3Exit Glacier 210Exxon Valdez 246

000 Map pages

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

F–M INDEX 287

Ffestivals 22-3film 24, 252Flattop Mountain Trail 229food 20-1, 33, see also individual

locationsFort Seward 166Fortress of the Bear 121fur traders 243

Ggalleries, see museums &

galleriesgardens, see parks & gardensGavan Hill Trail 123gay travelers 278geography 239Glacier Bay National Park 146-9glaciers 148-9

Blackstone Bay 197boat trips 196-7Exit Glacier 210Glacier Bay National Park 146-9Mendenhall Glacier 132-3Portage Glacier 195Surprise Glacier 197Taku Glacier 134-5, 135trekking 273Whittier 196-7

goats 268gold rush 178-81, 244Gold Rush Cemetery 182Granville Island Public Market

70-1Great Alaskan Craftbeer &

Home Brew Festival 22Grouse Grind 79, 86Grouse Mountain 83

HHaines 10, 159-71, 161, 168Harding Icefield Trail 211health 278-9

highlights 4-15hiking 19, 271-3

Chilkoot Trail 184, 185Deer Mountain 110East Glacier Loop 133glaciers 273Grouse Grind 79, 86Haines 166-7Harding Icefield Trail 211Juneau 130-1Kenai Fjords National Park 210-11Mendenhall Glacier 142Mt Roberts Trail 130-1Perseverance Trail 131Petersburg 157Portage Pass Trail 194-5Rainbird Trail 104Seward 213-15Sitka 121-5Skagway 184-6Stanley Park 68-9Vancouver 79Ward Lake Nature Walk 104Whittier 201-3

history 240-7holidays 281Hoonah 153Horsetail Falls Trail 201

Iice climbing 273Icy Strait Point 150-3Iditarod National Historic Trail 215Iditarod, The 251insurance 279internet access 279internet resources 17, 273

JJilkaat Kwaan Cultural Heritage

Center 164-5Juneau 8-9, 127-45, 129, 141, 143Juneau-Douglas City Museum

140

Kkayaking 19, 272, 274

Aialik Bay 211Juneau 141-2Ketchikan 96-7Seward 215Sitka 121Vancouver 79Whittier 198-9, 203

Kenai Fjords National Park 210-11

Ketchikan 7, 93-111, 95, 106Kitsilano Beach 82Klondike Gold Rush 244Klondike Gold Rush National

Historical Park 178-9, 185Klukwan 165Knudson Cove 99

LLake Bennett 177Lake Union 54languages 263Last Chance Mining Museum 140legal matters 280lesbian travelers 278literature 24, 251-2local life 20-1Lost Lagoon 69lynx 268

Mmarijuana 279measures 277medical services 279Mendenhall Glacier 132-3, 142Misty Fjords National

Monument 102-3mobile phones 16, 282money 16, 17, 280Moore Homestead 178-9moose 267Mosquito Cove Trail 123

288 INDEX M–S

Mt Marathon Race 23museums & galleries

Alaska Heritage Museum 226Alaska State Museum 140American Bald Eagle

Foundation 163Anchorage Museum 222-3Chihuly Garden & Glass 51Dolly’s House 104Hammer Museum 166Jeff Smith’s Parlor 179Juneau-Douglas City Museum

140Junior Ranger Activity Center

182Last Chance Mining Museum

140Mascot Saloon Museum 179Mendenhall Glacier visitor

centre 132-3Museum of History &

Industry 54Museum of Pop Culture 51-4Museum of Vancouver 82-3Prince William Sound Museum

200Russian Bishop’s House 117Science World 83Seattle Art Museum 50Seward Community Library &

Museum 212-13Sheldon Jackson Museum 120-1Sheldon Museum 166Sitka Historical Museum 120Six Hundred Four 85Skagway Museum 182Southeast Alaska Discovery

Center 104Stanley Park Nature House 69Tongass Historical Museum

104Vancouver Art Gallery 78Wrangell Museum 105

music 22, 24, 252

Nnational & state parks

Denali National Park & Preserve 234-5

Glacier Bay National Park 146-9

Kenai Fjords National Park 210-11

Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park 178-9

Misty Fjords National Monuments 102-3

Sitka National Historical Park 116-17

Tongass National Forest 144Nugget Falls 133

OOlympic Sculpture Park 54opening hours 17, 280-1Orcas Cove 97Oscar Anderson House 226otters 268

PPack Creek 136-7paddling 271-3, 274Palin, Sarah 247parks & gardens

Alaska Botanical Garden 227Capilano Suspension Bridge

Park 83-5Chihuly Garden 51Dr Sun Yat-Sen Classical

Chinese Garden & Park 78-82Jewell Gardens 182Olympic Sculpture Park 54Stanley Park 68-9

Passage Canal 199Perseverance Trail 131Petersburg 154-7Pike Place Market 38-9Pioneer Square Historical

District 50

planning 16-17, 25-9Alaska basics 16-17budgeting 17calendar of events 22-3children, travel with 32-3choosing a cruise 25-9climate 16, 238-9

politics 238-9pollution 30population 239porpoises 269Portage Lake 195Portage Pass Trail 194-5Prince William Sound Museum

200ptarmigan 270public holidays 281

Rrafting 167-9ravens 270Reid Falls 182reindeer 250Russian Bishop’s House 117Russian Cemetery 120

Ssafety 281sailing 79salmon 134-5, 269Saxman Native Village & Totem

Park 101Science World 83Sealaska Heritage 140seals 269Seattle 4-5, 35-63, 36, 52-3,

56, 63accommodations 63drinking & nightlife 60-1entertainment 60-1food 57-60itineraries 36planning 36-7shopping 55-7

S–Z INDEX 289

sights 50-4tours 55travel to/from 37, 61travel within 61walking tours 46-7, 48-9

senior travelers 277Seward 12-13, 207-17, 209, 214sheep 268shopping 20, see also individual

locationsShotgun Cove Trail 201-3Sitka 8-9, 113-25, 115, 122Sitka Cross Trail 123Sitka National Historical Park

116-17Sitka Sound Science Center 121Sitka Summer Music Festival 22Skagway 11, 173-89, 175, 183Small-Boat Harbor 212Smith Tower 50smoking 277Smuggler’s Cove 186Southeast Alaska Discovery

Center 104Space Needle 40-3Spenard Jazz Fest 22sports 23, 250St Nicholas Russian Orthodox

Church 140Stan Price State Wildlife

Sanctuary 136-7Stevens, Ted 246Surprise Glacier 197sustainability 30-1

TTaku Glacier 134-5tax 277telephone services 281-2time 16, 282tipping 280Tlingit Fort Site 117Tongass Historical Museum 104Tongass National Forest 144

Totem Bight State Park 101Totem Heritage Center 100totem poles 100-1, 108tourist information 282tours, see individual locationstransportation 17, see also

individual locationsTwo Lakes Trail 215

Vvacations 281vaccinations 278Vancouver 6, 65-91, 67, 80-1,

84, 91accommodations 91activities 79drinking & nightlife 88-9entertainment 89food 86-8itineraries 66planning 66-7shopping 85-6sights 78-85tours 85travel to/from 67, 89travel within 89walking tours 74-5, 76-7

visas 16, 283, 283-4

Wwalking tours

Anchorage 224-5Juneau 138-9Seattle 46-7, 48-9Skagway 180-1Sitka 118-19Vancouver 74-5, 76-7Whittier 201

walruses 269waterfowl 270weather 16, 238-9websites 17, 273weights 277whales 268-9

Juneau 142Petersburg 157Sitka 123

whaling industry 243White Pass 185White Pass Railroad 176-7Whittier 12-13, 191-205, 193, 202wi-fi 279wildlife 18, 266-70

Alaska Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve 162-3

Alaska Raptor Center 121Denali 235 Fortress of the Bear 121Glacier Bay National Park 149Kroschel’s Wildlife Center 166Misty Fjords National

Monument 102-3Pack Creek 136-7St Lazaria Island National

Wildlife Refuge, 123Stan Price State Wildlife

Sanctuary 136-7wolves 267women travelers 284Wrangell 105WWII 167, 201, 245

YYakutania Point 186

Zziplining 275

Icy Strait Point 152-3Juneau 142Ketchikan 98-9Seward 215-16

290290

Symbols & Map Key

h Art & Culture

p Beaches

a Budget

s Cafe/Coffee

m Cycling

x Detour

u Drinking

d Entertainment

q Events

b Family Travel

k Food & Drink

v History

r Local Life

f Nature & Wildlife

A Photo Op

g Scenery

z Shopping

n Short Trip

l Sport

c Walking

o Winter Travel

Find your best experiences with these Great For... icons.

1 Sights

2 Activities

C Courses

T Tours

z Festivals & Events

5 Eating

6 Drinking

3 Entertainment

7 Shopping

8 Information & Transport

Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing:

Sustainable or green recommendation

No payment required

% Telephone number

h Opening hoursp Parkingn Nonsmokinga Air-conditioningi Internet accessW Wi-fiaccesss Swimming pool

g Busf Ferryj Tramd TrainE English-

language menuv Vegetarian

selectionc Family-friendly

Symbols & Map Key

h Art & Culture

p Beaches

a Budget

s Cafe/Coffee

m Cycling

x Detour

u Drinking

d Entertainment

q Events

b Family Travel

k Food & Drink

v History

r Local Life

f Nature & Wildlife

A Photo Op

g Scenery

z Shopping

n Short Trip

l Sport

c Walking

o Winter Travel

Find your best experiences with these Great For... icons.

1 Sights

2 Activities

C Courses

T Tours

z Festivals & Events

5 Eating

6 Drinking

3 Entertainment

7 Shopping

8 Information & Transport

Look for these symbols to quickly identify listings:

These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing:

Sustainable or green recommendation

No payment required

% Telephone number

h Opening hoursp Parkingn Nonsmokinga Air-conditioningi Internet accessW Wi-fiaccesss Swimming pool

g Busf Ferryj Tramd TrainE English-

language menuv Vegetarian

selectionc Family-friendly

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

LighthouseHut/Shelter

BeachGate

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

Diving

Bodysurfing

Sleeping

EatingEntertainment

Shopping

Drinking & Nightlife

CafeCamping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

Skiing

SnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

AirportBART station

Boston T stationBorder crossing

Bus

CyclingFerry

Underground/U-Bahn station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT station

Petrol stationSubway/S-Bahn/Skytrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTramTube Station

Other Transport

Cable car/Funicular

Information

Geographic

Sights Points of Interest TransportBankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

LighthouseHut/Shelter

BeachGate

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

Diving

Bodysurfing

Sleeping

EatingEntertainment

Shopping

Drinking & Nightlife

CafeCamping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

Skiing

SnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

AirportBART station

Boston T stationBorder crossing

Bus

CyclingFerry

Underground/U-Bahn station

MonorailParking

Metro/MRT station

Petrol stationSubway/S-Bahn/Skytrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTramTube Station

Other Transport

Cable car/Funicular

Information

Geographic

Sights Points of Interest Transport

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

291291

John LeeBorn and raised in the UK, John grew up in the lengthy shadow of London, then succumbed to the lure of Canada’s West Coast in 1993 to begin an MA in Political Science at the University of Victoria. Regular trips home to Britain ensued, along with stints living in Tokyo and Montreal, before he returned to British Columbia to become a full-time freelance writer in 1999. Now living in Vancouver, John specializes in travel writing and has contributed to more than 150 different publi-cations around the world. You can read some of his stories (and see some of his videos) online at www.johnleewriter.com. John has worked on around 25 Lonely Planet books, including Canada, British Columbia, Western Europe, Vancouver and Europe on a Shoestring.

Becky OhlsenBecky is a freelance writer, editor and critic based in Portland, Oregon. She writes guidebooks and travel stories about Scandinavia, Portland and elsewhere for Lonely Planet. After a few years of studying her adopted hometown of Portland from the copy desk at an alternative weekly newspaper, Becky spent the requisite year bumming around Europe on the mega-cheap. This did nothing to quell her urge to run off exploring new places every couple of months; quite the opposite. Aside from Scandinavia, she has spent time roaming around the UK, Panama, Mexico, Hong Kong, Beijing and most of the US.

292

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. With-in a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne,

Oakland, Dublin, Beijing, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

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Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. With-in a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne,

Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Brendan SainsburyOriginally from Hampshire, England, Brendan has traveled all over Alaska from Ketchikan in the south to Deadhorse in the north by bus, train, kayak, bicycle, ferry, airplane and his own two feet. Memorable moments have included taking a bus up the Dalton Highway from Fairbanks to the Arctic Ocean, catching a ferry through the off-the-grid Alaskan peninsula to the Aleutian Islands, and running the Chilkoot trail in the footsteps of the Klondike ‘stampeders’ in a day. Now based in Vancouver, Canada, Brendan has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet guides including six editions of Cuba.

Catherine BodryCatherine is based in Anchorage, Alaska, but spends much of her time in Southeast Asia. As a writer, she’s covered Alaska, Thailand and China, among other destinations. A lover of mountains, she spends as much time as possible in or near hills, whether it’s running, hiking, camping, berry picking, rafting or just gazing at them. For Lonely Planet, she’s contributed to about a dozen guide and trade books including several editions of Alaska, as well as Canada, Thailand and Pacific Northwest Trips.

Adam KarlinAdam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, crime, politics, archaeology, and the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) and his essays and articles have featured in the BBC, NPR, and multiple non-fiction anthologies. Adam is based out of New Orleans, which explains his love of wetlands, food and good music. Learn more at http://walkonfine.com or Instagram @adamwalkonfine.

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