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CRUISING TO THE DRY TORTUGAS by Randy, Kim & Corey Kalisik

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Page 1: CRUISING TO THE DRY TORTUGAS - Living Aboard a Boat … · CRUISING TO THE DRY TORTUGAS ... Full time live aboard for 5 years on Fort Myers Beach with ... Bush Key is seasonally closed

CRUISING TO THE DRY TORTUGASby Randy, Kim & Corey Kalisik

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CRUISING TO THE DRY TORTUGASRANDY

Introduction - About us and about Blue Turtle, our trawler

KIM About the Dry Tortugas - History, facts, things to do, and park rules

Pre-trip - Provisioning and pre-trip checklist

RANDY Getting there - Cruising considerations and scenarios

Arriving - Anchoring, checking in (boat permits/fees) and sooty terns

Snorkeling & Diving - Equipment check, snorkel & dive sites and getting the most out of it

COREY Fishing - Park & state regulations, fishing spots and type of fish caught

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INTRODUCTION

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ABOUT USFull time live aboard for 5 years on Fort Myers Beach with our son, Corey and dog, Sophie

Both work full time - Kim owns a web design business, Randy is a manufacturer’s rep for industrial products

Cruising around southwest Florida, the Keys and Dry Tortugas

Very active in fishing, diving, snorkeling and other water sports

Randy is a U.S.C.G. Licensed Master Captain

Blog about living aboard and cruising at www.blueturtletrawler.com

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ABOUT BLUE TURTLE1974 40’ DeFever Passagemaker Trawler

Single screw (185hp Perkins) with bow and stern thrusters

Cruising speed 6 - 7.5 knots

1.5 gallons per hour fuel consumption

Full displacement hull

200 gallons water capacity

500 gallon fuel capacity

40 gallon holding tank

9 foot dinghy with 15 hp motor

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ABOUT THE DRY TORTUGAS

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SMALL GROUP OF ISLANDSSmall group of islands located 70 miles west of Key West

7 Islands total - Loggerhead Key, Garden Key, Bush Key, Long Key, Hospital Key, Middle Key, and East Key

Only 2 of them can be visited year round - Garden Key and Loggerhead Key

Bush Key is seasonally closed during the sooty tern nesting season

East Key, Middle Key, Hospital Key and Long Key are closed year round for nesting wildlife

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DRY TORTUGAS HISTORYNamed Las Tortugas (The Turtles) in 1513 by Spanish explorer Ponce de León

Labeled “Dry Tortugas” on mariner charts to indicate it offered no fresh water

America realized fortifying the Tortugas was an essential step in controlling navigation on the Gulf of Mexico

Fort Jefferson - active naval base and prison for criminals and deserters throughout Civil War

Famous prisoner Samuel Mudd who had been convicted of conspiracy in the assassination of President Abraham Lincoln

Fort was later used as a a quarantine station for Marine Hospital Service and coaling station for war ships

The Tortugas major shipping channel became known as a “ship trap” because of the number of wrecks in the shallow waters

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GARDEN KEY Second largest island, about 14 acres in size

Home to Fort Jefferson, park headquarters, visitor center, campgrounds and great snorkeling areas

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Fort Jefferson is the largest brick masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere

Six-sided, four-tiered building made up of16 Million bricks!

Garden Key lighthouse was first constructed in 1825 to help guide ships through shallow waters

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Beware of loose bricks and wall edges when exploring the fort

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LOGGERHEAD KEY Located 3 miles from Garden Key, it is the largest of the Dry Tortugas islands.

It’s the site of amazing snorkeling and diving at nearby reefs and wreck - Little Africa & Windjammer Wreck

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The Dry Tortugas Light (on Loggerhead Key) along with the Garden Key lighthouse were the only lights on the Gulf coast throughout the American Civil War

Home of a cutting-edge marine laboratory from 1905 to 1939 - the most significant scientific research of the Dry Tortugas was conducted there

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ABOUT THE PARKDesignated a National Park in 1983

Called “Dry” because of the absence of surface fresh water on the island

Noted for abundant sea life and coral reefs, tropical bird breeding grounds, and legends of shipwrecks

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Corals reefs are the least disturbed of the Florida Keys reefs making for amazing snorkeling and diving

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Tropical bird breeding grounds - Over 299 species including the Sooty Tern and Brown Noddy

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Accessible only by ferry (out of Key West), seaplane or private vessel

Ferry visitors are at the fort from 10:30 am - 3pm

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Since the Dry Tortugas islands are closer to Cuba than Miami, Cuban migrants attempt to land here on homemade boats called “chugs”

Credit: Jennifer Macaulay via Flickr

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THINGS TO DOExplore Fort Jefferson

Camping

Fishing

Kayaking/paddle sports

Swimming, snorkeling and diving

Wildlife viewing / bird watching

Explore Loggerhead Key

Stargazing

Watch the sun rise and set on the Gulf of Mexico

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A FEW PARK RULESPets are allowed on Garden Key but not inside the fort

Collecting of lobsters and Spearfishing is prohibited

Fishing is permitted on Garden Key in specified areas and outside the Research Natural Area (refer to park map)

Pack in, pack out park – all campers, visitors and boaters must take out what they brought in

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ISOLATIONNo water – i.e. “Dry” Tortugas

No restaurants or shops of any kind; only lodging facilities is a primitive camp ground

No cell or WiFi service – Park Ranger office posts printed 3-day weather forecasts

Park recommends campers bring two gallons of water per person per day as well as extra 2 days of food

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PRE-TRIP

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PROVISIONINGThe Park recommends 2 gallons of water per person per day and an extra 2 days of food in case of bad weather

If you have adequate freezer and storage space, stock up on non-perishable foods (Canned goods, frozen meat, dry goods like rice and pasta)

Utilize your fresh produce and perishables first at the beginning of the trip and rely on non-perishables as you run out

To save space and fit more food, remove items from boxes and large cartons and repack in plastic

If you have a small fridge, keep beverages in a separate cooler for the first couple days and move them into the refrigerator as space is made available

Water-conservation tips: washing dishes in salt water followed by fresh water rinse; using salt water and a bucket to rinse your decks

Carry extra water by purchasing jerry cans or bladders to fill with fresh water as well as using solar showers

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PRE-TRIP CHECKLISTCheck running lights (if cruising at night)

Have bottom and running gear dove and cleaned

Check engine maintenance

Bring spare fuel filters and impellers

Bring extra oil, transmission oil and coolant

Fill fuel and water

Pump holding tank

Check diving and snorkeling equipment

Keep in mind that there are no stores to buy food, water, spare parts, etc.

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GETTING THERE

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CRUISING CONSIDERATIONS

Located in the Gulf of Mexico at the end of the Florida Keys, about 70 miles west of Key West

Check the long term weather forecast for winds, hurricanes, or fronts to make sure you have an optimal weather window

Summer has afternoon thunderstorms

Winter has cold fronts

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North Side

South Side

Departing or returning to Key West - cruise on north or south side of islands depending on wind and swell direction

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CRUISING SCENARIOSOur trip from Fort Myers to the Dry Tortugas was 120 miles and took 18 hours

Cruising 1-day vs. 3-days (depending on your location)

We anchored out in a pass the night before to make it easier and quicker to leave in the early a.m.

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ARRIVING

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ANCHORINGVessels anchor at the Tortugas Anchorage or Bird Key Anchorage

Anchorage is 20-30’ deep and coarse sandy bottom. Scope 5-7 times depth.

We have an anchor designed for a 50’ boat and 100 feet of chain.

It’s common seeing boats drag anchor

Keep 16 on at night as rangers hail when a boat is adrift

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BOAT PERMIT & FEESThe entrance fee for the park is $10.00 per visitor. This fee covers entrance to the park for 7 days. You may stay a maximum of 14 days at one time.

A free-of-charge boat permit must be obtained and can be acquired from park rangers on site or contact VHF Marine Radio Channel 16

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SOOTY TERNSAbout 80,000 Sooty Terns nest annually on Bush Key near the anchorage

Bush Key is closed seasonally to the public because of the nesting ground

The birds can present a messy problem for boaters anchoring in the area with their droppings

We used an osprey kite last year and it seemed to keep them away very well

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SNORKELING & DIVING

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EQUIPMENT CHECKTest snorkel and dive gear in a pool to make sure everything works

Bring spare equipment if you have it — things break and there are no local dive shops to visit for repairs

Bring enough dive tanks for your trip since there’s no where to get air fills

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SNORKELING SITESGarden Key

Little Africa

Windjammer Wreck

Brick Wreck

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GARDEN KEY & FORT JEFFERSON Closest snorkeling spot is around the fort moat wall and coal dock ruins. You can night snorkel around the mote as well.

Credit: snorkelingtravel.com

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LITTLE AFRICA Located on the west side of Loggerhead Key is a huge shallow reef perfect for snorkeling.

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3 Ways to visit Little Africa

1. Dinghy to dinghy access area on calm day and walk across the island2. Grab mooring ball on east side and ding to shore and walk across3. Grab mooring ball on west side of island and snorkel to area

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WINDJAMMER WRECK Located less than a mile southwest of Loggerhead Key

In 1907 a 261 ft., 3-masted vessel named Avanti struck the Loggerhead reef after a navigational error and sank

Wreck lies in 18-21 feet of water and makes a great snorkel or dive. Watch the current, it can be swift at times

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AVANTIWindjammer Wreck

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BRICK WRECK Sometime between 1857 and 1861 a flat bottom steamboat carrying bricks for the fort ran aground

Lies in 4-6 feet of water. There is a very strong current there

No mooring ball, must anchor

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DIVING SITESOff Ramp

The Maze

Davis Rock

Texas Rock

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OFF RAMP Isolated reef outcroppings with staghorn coral on the western side

Depths 25 feet and shallower

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THE MAZE Coral caverns, swim-through pinnacles and straight up vertical relief

Depths 20-60 feet

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DAVIS ROCK Large crevices run through the middle of this pinnacle reef

Depths 20-45 feet

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TEXAS ROCK Large crevices, caves, swim-through, cracks, pinnacles and lots of vertical relief

Look for the giant anchor

Depths 20-60 feet

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GETTING THE MOST OUT OF SNORKELING/SCUBAWe dove only half tanks in order to conserve air and get to see more spots

We would dive a half tank in the a.m. and then stop at Little Africa on the way back to snorkel for a long as we wanted

Little Africa is one of the best snorkel spots we’ve seen. It is 3 miles from anchorage and dinghy’able (on plane) on a calm day. Make sure to bring a hand-held VHF radio

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FISHING

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FISHINGFishing is permitted within 1 mile ofGarden Key

1 mile is marked by yellow buoys

Spearfishing is not permitted anywhere in the park

Follow Florida Gulf of Mexico fishing regulations

We fished by dinghy and it was helpful to have a snorkel ready

Yellowtail snapper, mutton snapper, grouper, bonefish, tarpon, shark

We caught snapper with a jig

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From Garden Key, you can only fish on the ferry dock

From the ferry dock we saw tarpon and mangrove snapper

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Q&ALearn more about our Dry Tortugas trips at:

www.blueturtletrawler.com

Presented by Randy, Kim & Corey Kalisik