cultural anthropology

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Table of Contents Contents Preface...................................................... 2 1.0 Introduction............................................. 3 2.0 Traditional Costume in Cultural Anthropology Perspective. 5 2.1 Baju Belah Kebaya Panjang..............................6 2.2 Kebaya Songket......................................... 7 2.3 Kebaya Kota Bharu (Kebaya Cik Siti Wan Kembang)........8 2.4 Kebaya Riau – Pahang................................... 9 2.5 Nyonya Kebaya......................................... 10 2.6 Kebaya Chitty......................................... 12 2.7 Baju Kebarung......................................... 14 3.0 Conlusion............................................... 16 Bibliography................................................ 17

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antropology budaya di malaysia masyarakat majmuk baju kurung dan yang berkaitan.

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Table of ContentsContentsPreface21.0 Introduction32.0 Traditional Costume in Cultural Anthropology Perspective52.1Baju Belah Kebaya Panjang62.2Kebaya Songket72.3Kebaya Kota Bharu (Kebaya Cik Siti Wan Kembang)82.4Kebaya Riau Pahang92.5Nyonya Kebaya102.6Kebaya Chitty122.7Baju Kebarung143.0 Conlusion16Bibliography17

Preface

The topic discuss about traditional costume in the cultural anthropology perspective. As me and my partner tried to summarized the scope of research to a local malay costume; Kebaya. We had a state a few type of kebaya that are famously known in malaysia. Some of the kebaya have the same origin (Javanese) before its arived to the Malay culture. From there, the malays improvise the kebaya to make it as our own type of kebaya. Even thou some of the details are difficult to find, but we managed to find a few resources that related to our topic. Most of the famous kebaya such as kebaya nyonya and kebarung are normaly know to our modern world society. But the others kebaya such as, kebaya kota bharu and kebaya riau-pahang are rarely exposed to these new world of technology.

1.0 Introduction

Cultural anthropology; anthropological linguistics, archaeology and ethnology can be grouped together as they are all concerned with human culture.Like cultural anthropology, a common aspect of sociology is that people or groups play a role when analyzing this discipline. Societies are for the most part stratified into groups and classes based on hierarchy. A simple example of this is the class structure of modern day United Kingdom in that there is an ever present working class, middle class, upper middle class and upper class, and the divisions that separate these groups adhere to their economic and financial standing, employment and education.

One of the key features of sociology is functionalism, a theory associated with Emile Durkheim (French sociologist born 1858 1917). Functionalism explains the structure of societies and how they work. The theory of functionalism defines society as being made up of inter-dependent sections that work together to fulfill the needs and ensure the progression and ultimately the survival of a society. Another key feature of sociology is conflict theory. Some sociologists saw societies as functioning under a ruling power or group that maintains control over others to keep order within society, and argued that participants (citizens) work to elevate their social status in order to gain power and in doing so bring about social change.Psychology is concerned with the study of behaviour and its structure, mental processes such as cognition (reflex and reaction to stimuli), personality, emotion, perception and interpersonal relationships. Psychology also applies knowledge of various spheres of human activity for example, work, education and treatment of mental health problems.

Abraham Maslow (American psychologist born 1908 1970) worked on synthesising a large body of research in direct relation to human motivation and identified a hierarchy of needs within two groupings; deficiency needs and growth needs. Maslows identification of human needs is within the realm of an understanding that is useful to the professional community worker, whereby to efficiently work with and help communities one must first be aware of the needs of said community, for without this knowledge a worker cannot be effective.The disciplines of cultural anthropology, sociology and psychology are the very foundations of anyones understanding of cultures, societies and individual human behaviour. But in fact the community worker has a responsibility to fulfill by fully comprehending each discipline and its relevance to community work however varying and modified it may become.Societies undergo change and adapt to factors that affect the majority such as education, employment, finance and so on, and this has a knock on affect to how people behave. Whereas as societies and behaviour may be influenced to change in reaction to the social climate; culture will attempt and succeed in remaining constant as its very essence is something that is learned and repeated through generations, only ever experiencing minute variations over long periods of time.Folk costume also known regional costume, national costume, or traditional garmentsform an identity through costume which is usually related with a geographic area or a period of time in history, but can also indicate social, marital or religious status. (Stephanie Koerner & Ian Russell, 2010). Some of costumes often come in two forms such as one for everyday occasions, the other for festivals and formal wear.These costume represent the national of certain country. Traditional costume is a costume that been use since a long time ago from the accestor. As they used these costume for their daily life. Some of these costume are been used for special occasion such as marriage or a festival.

2.0 Traditional Costume in Cultural Anthropology Perspective

Kebaya, is known as a Malay traditional costume that has been since 15th century as reported by (Forshee,2006) . It been related to women or female costume. The earliest form of Kebaya originates from Javanese Majapahit Kingdom as a means to combine with female torso wrap of the aristocratic women to be more modest and acceptable to the newly adopted Islam religion. The name of Kebaya as a particular clothing type was noted by the Portuguese when they landed in Indonesia(Forshee,2006). Prior to 1600, kebaya on Java island were considered as a sacred clothing to be worn only by royal family. Some researcher believes that the kebaya could have come from the Arabic Habaya, along tunic that opened in front (Datin Seri Endon, 2004). This is not entirely satisfactory since the kebaya looks nothing like the Habaya. But, some of the people belive it does come from the Arabic because in Islam, the Malay women are entitle cover their skin (Aurat) as most of the kebaya such as kebaya panjang are very suitable for the women to cover their skin.Slowly it naturally spread to neighboring areas through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to Malacca. There are many type of kebaya, such as kebaya nyonya, kebarung, kebaya saloma, kebaya chitty, and other kebaya that represents each states in malaysia. These kebaya have its own function and the difference in type of material been using in its manufacturing. Some of kebaya using the same material but some of it combine with other type of cloth.As time change, the revolution of kebaya also evolve. Now days, some of the traditional kebaya has been change to a modern concept of kebaya. These acceration of kebaya with the input of colours made it more nice to look.

2.1 Baju Belah Kebaya Panjang

Baju Belah Kebaya Panjang is a costume that come from south malaysia, Johor. As these kebaya also come from the javaness but be exegerate and transforms into local malaysia costume. The Johor took the concept and make it as their own. The origin of these kebaya come from portugese women who come to western court of malaysia in the 16th century worn the kebaya panjang. (Canttoni, 2003). A knee length jacket called kebaya panjang is been used as formal costume in any special event from the 60th century until now.

As the concept of the kebaya is the same as other region of kebaya but theres a few different in the details. Baju Belah Kebaya Panjang were made with a split at the front of the costume. Eventhough the length of the cloth for the body and the sleeve are longer. Its still using the same Sarong as it been used as a cloth to cover the legs.Long sides of the shirt will still be 'isolate' body parts. Cuts up to ankle length. Only difference is divided in front of this shirt. These shirts are usually worn as an outer garment in the house or formal ceremonies. Long sides of the shirt is very famous in Malacca, Perak, Selangor and Kedah-Perlis. This kebaya became known as kebaya blouse and kebaya panjang. This tradition has grown into a kebaya and long sleeve, chest slits are covered with studs or three as a decorative brooch.

Picture 1: Type of Baju belah kebaya Panjang

From the social view, these kebaya do have some exotic colours and pattern. But the split on the front of the costume define as exposed of a female body are truly discrace in islam. Eventhough all the kebaya are the same in the meaning of the exposure of female body, the Baju Belah Kebaya Panjang are more exposed than the other kebaya. 2.2 Kebaya Songket

Kebaya Songket is very famous among traditional dancer. It is very unique for those simple combination of clothes. Even its not cheap but some women really like to wear Kebaya Songket because its really beautiful and looks traditionally. The Songket design is really nice to combine with Kebaya even the songket is just a simple plain design.

Songket is a rich and luxurious fabric, handwoven in silk or cotton yarns, using metallicthreads to form the beautiful and intricate songket motifs. Although the term songket isderived from the word menyongket (meaning to embroider), it is by no meansembroidered. Instead, it is woven using the supplementary weft technique wherebygroups of metallic weft threads are interwoven with weft and warp threads of thebackground, providing a contrast in both colour and texture. As such, songket-weavingis a laborious and tedious process that requires a high degree of concentration from theweaver, resulting in a work of art that would exhibit the craftsmanship and skills of theweaver.

Traditionally, songket is used for formal or ceremonial occasions such as installationsand investitures and religious rites such as circumcision ceremonies. Nowadays,however, it is mosto often worn at Malay weddings, Hari Raya, convocations and statefunctions. Songket also serves as a corporate gift and decorative purpose. It can beadapted to make elegant table runners, pillow cases and even framed pieces of art.A mans songket attire typically consists of a stiff end kerchief or head-wrapper(tengkolok), a long-sleeved tunic (baju) with a stud collar, a tasselled waistcloth, a knee-length sarong (samping) and trousers. Woman may wear songket either baju kurungstyle which comprises a long tunic worn over an ankle-length sarong or baju kebayastyle, where a long blouse fastened with gold brooches is worn over an ankle-lengthsarong.Most of our songket is produced in Terengganu. A good songket is the combination ofdesign, quality of gold thread, weaving techniques and the weavers skills. And after theskills are passed on from mother to daughter.

2.3 Kebaya Kota Bharu (Kebaya Cik Siti Wan Kembang)

Be named as Kebaya Kota Bharu because it is traditionally be worn by women in Kota Bharu and Kelantan only. Differences of this Kebaya with others Kebaya is it have a studs in front of the chests, Kebaya Kota Bharu also very similar to Kebaya on Jawa Island especially in Bandung and be called as Kebaya Kutu Baru.As being stated from the Dewan Bahasa&Pustaka (2008), Kebaya Kota Bharu was origin came from indonesia and was improvised by the former know as Cik Siti Wan kembang, a former queen of Kota Bharu, Kelantan.These type of kebaya are rarely used now days. It is because the design for this kebaya are to sexy for this modern days. The chest are to open and are using less cloth and transparent cover on the body. But now days, it has been improvise as a new modern Kebaya. Some people in today society or government are more likely into islamic ways. So its difficult to wear these Kebaya openly in the crowd.

Picture 2: A girl wearing Kebaya Kota Bharu

2.4 Kebaya Riau Pahang

In Pahang, a state in Malaysia, this kebaya known as Riau Pahang Kebaya or called Kebaya Turkey. This Kebaya is the difference with the other in Malaysia because Riau kebaya neck shirt comes with collar and the buttons is used to shut tight as foxes but the front is divided as the kebaya other brooches but its also used under the bolts that buttoned.

This Kebaya is a split collar at the front as if a short kebaya. Kebaya Riau also called Engku Puteri or Raja Hamidah princess of Raja Haji namely Yang Dipertuan Muda Riau the 5th from descendant of Bugis.

As the costume are the decendant from the pricess, it has been use regularly for the modern society. The Kebaya do have some exotic design that made it more interesting for the society to wear it.

2.5 Nyonya Kebaya

Nyonya attire similar to Malay traditional costume, which consists of baju kebaya (long shirt and batik sarong) and brooches. Baba and Nyonya is a Chinese community in the strait state, Malay land, especially Malacca. They were called themselves Baba and Nyonya because of their cultures is came from Chinese heritage, but they were also influence in Malay culture. The socio culture were absorbed in the past which have mix marriage between Chinese and Malay so it is why the next generation called them Baba and Nyonya. After adjustment of the culture or cultural assimilation that lasted for hundreds of years, the apparel has been accepted by the locals.

Prior to the year 1600 on the island of Java, kebaya is the only clothing worn by the royal family group there sake only. During the Dutch colonial era on the island of Java, the first European women wearing kebaya as their official clothes. Day after day, the kebaya has changed from simply using mori fabric and have exchanged using embroidered silk and colorful.

Picture 3: The evolution of Nyonya Kebaya through the ages.

The traditional cloth for Nyonya is Kebaya Nyonya or Short Kebaya. Usually Short Kebaya always wear with sarong. Sometimes, there some Nyonya wear with Chaylay Sarong to more elegant. Design of the embroidery on Short Kebaya or Kebaya Nyonya like insects, animals, birds and musical instruments. Nyonya also wear is beaded slippers called Kasut Manek were a hand-made made much skills and patent. Baba traditional cloth it had multi-pockets jacket with a high mandarin collar with gold stud any ivory buttons worn with baggy wrap around pants and a topper hat.

Picture 5: The hybrid of Malay with Chinese culture.Picture 4: As the embroidery of the Kebaya is different from the others.

Fabrik commonly used to make Nyonya Kebaya is called rubia gauze. Woven fabrics are rarely empty and light than yarn spun subtle. Thread used for sewing machine embroidery thread fabric usually than cotton, silk or polyester. In ancient times, fabric and yarn used to make Nyonya Kebaya is than most kinds of high quality and imported from Europe and suits with Nyonya status. They impose the sheath and beautiful beaded shoes called "shoe beads". Now, mistress kebaya is undergoing reform, and also well-known among non-Asian women.

2.6 Kebaya Chitty

Hindu community residing in Malacca Peranakan known as the Chitty community. They are a minority Indian community groups a unique Peranakan in Malacca. Melaka Chitty community formed as a result of intermarriage between Hindus from India with local people such as Malay, Chinese and others.

Such as women or the Straits Chinese Nyonya, Chitty Indians also have their own kebaya. Of course, there are some differences between the Peranakan kebaya worn by Indian and Chinese. Chitty kebaya generally quite conservative in favor of opaque material for their kebaya, compared Nyonya kebaya is more like semi-transparent fabric. Chitty kebaya also tend to plainer, with delicate embroidery or none at all - not like Nyonya kebaya, which is often decorated with fairly elaborate stitching and subtle. Another difference is that women also wear kebaya Chitty length (long kebaya) and short kebaya (Javanese blouse favored by the hip-length Nyonya).

Marriage with old custom show Chitty community in Malacca has similarities with the Indians in the southern Indian state like their wedding clothes. In the wedding ceremony Chitty, bridegroom wearing talpa, keris (Malay weapon) and wear shoes in the room. To bride, they wear a long shirt and sarong length, head arrangements are decorated with cross bun, tiara, and wear shoes in the room.

Picture 5: The usage of Kebaya Chitty are mostly used in special Occasion such as marriage.

Daily outfit Baba / Nyonya and Chitty have an older similarities. Women wear long kebaya (Javanese blouse encim), brooches with nylon rope, branch orientation and clothing bun speckled pattern. For young women, they wear short kebaya, links brooch, floral bedspreads and clothing. For men, they wear tight shirts fox, handkerchief on the head and sarong (sarong).

2.7 Baju KebarungAs the name implies, the kebarung is simply a hybrid of the kebaya and the baju kurung quite the happy compromise, particularly for people who love the shape of the kebaya but long for the roomy feel of the baju kurung.Just look kebarung shirt design, it is to resemble the sides of the shirt worn during the time of our forefathers first. It is very quite popular among women because of the simple design of baju kurung and kebaya. Kebarung very suitable for women whether they are thin or stout. Even the distinctive features found on kebarung, which is cut loose and long not only provide comfort, but also demonstrate polite and elegant style of the wearer. The ideas and wisdom of the designer combines features in kebaya and baju kurung fashion kebarung produce interesting and unique.

Long shirt kebarung, usually just below the knee and it's not like others Kebaya, nor according to your body shape as a modern kebaya. Difference lies in how to make pesak and snicker shirt. Pesak and snicker kebarung same shirt as seen on the shirt today and for this reason, the name of baju kurung taken as part of kebarung name, the name of the kebaya was accepted because of the slits on the front of the shirt. Kebarung shirt looks more like a side of modern kebaya because of a loose shirt.

In terms of selection of fabrics, if first shirt shop or kebaya made of woven fabric, embroidered and fabric like cotton imports from India, not the least of Chinese silk and batik from Indonesia, now various kinds of fabrics and accessories used. Among batik fabric stain, organza, chiffon and silk from Korea, India and Japan.

The end of the 1990s, rare fabrics such as chiffon, gauze, organza and silk gauze increasingly the choice for fashion designers. With ideas and creativity, designers add decoration on this dress with beads and sequins. In 1998, this garment is designed to use a hand-painted silk very interesting with local floral patterns and abstract designs. Remarkably, not only suit worn kebarung Malay women, but also Chinese women to a formal occasion. Along with the development of the fashion world, fashion is no exception Malay clothing, from shirts kebarung this form, there was the form and a new way of wearing. These days there is a form of Malay dress kebarung but not berkelepet in the neck and pinned with a brooch. There is also a flap coupled with a tongue like a Kebaya Kota Bharu.

3.0 Conlusion

As a matter of facts, Kebaya is a traditional costume that still been wear till this day even thou most of the costume has been renovated to a modern type of Kebaya, but the traditional element still remains. The Kebaya also is the most unique clothes among of all Malay traditional costumes. Thats why womens really like those clothes from its design. We cant denied that Kebaya also very important in Traditional Dance to give the best impression to the audience. Kebaya give contribution to the country to show the uniqueness of ethnic Malay outfit and the only easy way to recognize this Malay race. Besides that, it is also give a very big impact to the community to appreciate and wear traditional clothing to symbolize the Malay race has a very unique application once. Furthermore, we as a people also should know the Malay kebaya more closely as the origin and type of its kind because it is very important to know and recognize something in order not to blind type of kebaya culture.As the wear of kebaya rarely been use as daily usage, it still has been imply as a formal national wear in Malaysia. The modern kebaya that show the quality of traditional kebaya shows the differences in culture as the old days kebaya been used as daily wear. The pattern in the fabric also make it unique and represent the sacredness of south east asia culture. The society that put arts as a major attraction to other culture. Kebaya that has been one of Malay heritage that needs to preserve so the world could know the special of local arts.If it stays as to represent our culture, society must keep it preserve. Because if its not, it may loss its uniqueness. As Datin Seri Endon said, Malay culture heritage may die off if the people itself do not treasure and record it for posterity (2002).

Bibliography

1) Cattoni Victoria, Reading Kebaya, Charles Darwin University: 2003: pg2

2) Datin Seri Endon Mahmood, The Nyonya Kebaya, Periplus Editions: 2002: pg16

3) Datin Seri Endon Mahmood, The Nyonya Kebaya A Century of Straits Chinese Costume, Periplus Editions: 2004: pg19

4) Jill Forshee, Culture and customs of Indonesia, Greenwood Publishing Group: 2006: pg237

5) Roslah Othman (2007, June 27). Kebarung Gabungan Kebaya dan Kurung. Utusan.

6) Unquiet Pasts: Risk Society, Lived Cultural Heritage, Re-Designing Reflexivity - Stephanie Koerner, Ian Russell pg26 2010

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