Phot

ogra

ph b

y G

iova

nni G

iann

oni

DAILY EDITION 13 JULY 2016 1

Fashion. Beauty. Business.

Times TwoKirna Zabête is expanding, with a pop-up shop in the Hamptons and a store in Bryn Mawr. PAGE 9

Raw MaterialChanel buys a majority stake in Millau, a French tannery that specializes in high-end lambskin. PAGE 3

The German-born Robert Geller took a turn back in time to Berlin in the early Eighties for his spring collection, referencing the New Romantic era that sparked a movement “not bound by restrictions,” he said. His strong collection of duster coats, high-waisted pants and leopard prints was reminiscent of Kraftwerk and their ilk, but with a new sense of freedom and playfulness from the designer not seen in past seasons. For more on the second day of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, see pages 4 to 8.

FASHION

Remember The Eighties

CONTINUED ON PG. 12

● Experts are cautious about U.S. trade outlook in the midst of a bruising race for political leadership.

BY KRISTI ELLIS WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM ARTHUR FRIEDMAN

WASHINGTON — Global trade has taken a beating in the presidential race, potentially hurting the chances for a sweeping Asia-Pa-cific trade deal and raising questions about the direction of U.S. trade policy.

As Republicans and Democrats head to their nominating conventions — led by the Republicans from Monday to July 21 in Cleve-land, followed by the Democrats July 25 to 28 in Philadelphia — the debate over trade will follow them as delegates vote on platforms that reflect the parties’ principles and help guide the next president.

The antitrade forces have slowed down approval of a cornerstone of President Obama’s trade agenda this year — the

BUSINESS

Presidential ElectionTarnishes Free Trade

● The online retailer doubled down for its second annual event Tuesday, offering twice as many deals and stirring up competitive spirits in the retail sector.

BY MAGHAN MCDOWELL WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM VICKI M. YOUNG

Amazon doubled down for its second annual “Prime Day” Tuesday, offering twice as many deals and stirring up the competi-tion in the retail sector.

“Prime Day” — which launched last year and celebrated the company’s 20th anniver-sary — raked in sales of about $400 million in its first outing. Analysts from MKM projected that Amazon would double its Prime Day revenues this year, with others saying the company’s take could go as high as $1 billion.

There were some concerns among the investment set, though, which took a wait-and-see approach and traded shares of

RETAIL

AmazonPrime DayYields Gains,Glitches

CONTINUED ON PG. 13

Fashionably MayNew Prime Minister Theresa May admits she loves shoes — and is surprisingly stylish (for a politician). PAGE 15

Men’sCollections

Spring2017

www.tefron.com

WE ARE

INNOVATORSWE ARE

BOLDWE ARE

13 JULY 2016 3

● The facility employs 40 people and is prized for its specialty leathers.

BY MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Signaling the importance of securing rare raw materials for luxury goods, Chanel said it has acquired a majority stake in a French tannery that specializes in high-end lambskin.

Financial terms were not disclosed.Founded in 1852, the family-run Richard

tannery in Millau, part of the Aveyron region in France, is prized for leathers with metallic, pearly, printed, varnished or crushed finishes.

It is already a major supplier to Chanel, particularly for its small leather goods.

Richard has evolved from a supplier of leathers for gloves and garments to a sharper focus on footwear and leather goods, accord-ing to Chanel.

Managing director Xavier Richard has almost 30 years of experience at the company, which employs 40 people and exports about 60 percent of its leather production.

Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fash-ion, said the acquisition adds a “crucial link to our chain of leather goods manufacturing and provides Chanel with an opportunity to con-solidate our network of excellence in leather.”

The intent is to create cluster of leather specialists in Millau that is “dynamic and the most effective guarantee of sustainability in

this sector,” Pavlovsky said.In 2012, Chanel acquired Causse, a glove

manufacturer whose workshop is located in Millau. It also owns another French tannery in the vicinity, Bodin-Joyeux, also specializing in lambskin and with more than 150 years of experience under its belt.

Richard specialized in what is known as Lacaune and Entrefino lambskin “plongé,”

a supple leather used for some of Chanel’s iconic quilted leather goods.

In tandem with the acquisition, Chanel plans to “invest in order to reinvigorate the Lacaune segment and boost innovation, in particular regarding new methods of vegeta-ble and synthetic tanning.”

Chanel is keen to ensure savoir faire and production capacities around its key prod-ucts. Also in 2012, the firm acquired Scottish cashmere expert Barrie knitwear, maker of Chanel’s bicolored cardigans and other sweat-ers for more than 25 years.

Europe’s big luxury groups are jockeying to secure suppliers of the rare raw materials and technical know-how needed to make their high-margin products.

BUSINESS

Chanel Acquires French Lambskin Tannery

Chanel small leather goods.

● The prizes were awarded Tuesday in Hong Kong.

BY AMANDA KAISER

Indonesia’s Tonton and South Korea’s Munn — two brands that have examined their own cultures for creative inspiration — have snagged the women’s and men’s Woolmark Asia prizes, respectively.

A panel of judges, including men’s designer Christopher Raeburn and Hong Kong-based handbag designer Fiona Kotur, made the selection from a field of ten nominees for women’s wear and six for men’s wear, hailing from China, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea and Indonesia. The prizes were awarded Tues-day in Hong Kong at the PMQ retail complex and design hub.

Both winners, along with the other contes-tants, came up with an original look incorpo-rating Woolmark wool.

Toton Januar Heri Nugroho, who designs Tonton, created a look that attempts to mod-ernize Indonesian heritage garb and crafts-manship. Working with artisans in West Java, he and his partner, Haryo Balitar, turned out a hand-embroidered jacket in a botanical motif worn with handloom woven pants. Woven slip-on shoes and a textured blouse rounded out the ensemble.

“They [the Indonesian artisans] are tradi-tionally doing handloom fabric. And for Wool-mark, we incorporated wool to be made into fabric with their artisanship,” said Toton, 38, a Parsons graduate and the son of a seamstress mother.

Tonton, founded in 2012, counts 10 sales points worldwide, including Al Ostoura in Kuwait, S*uce in Dubai, Le Charme de Fifi et

Fafa in Tokyo and Ara in Jakarta.Inspired by the concept of Korean fam-

ilies being separated by the North/South Korean divide and desiring to reunite, Munn designer Hyunmin Han employed weaving and braiding into his designs. He produced a floor-length coat featuring a bottom section of woven strips of material and voluminous trousers assembled from panels of pinstripe fabric- both of these items were trimmed in selvage strips. He also designed a textured sweater and scarf and a woven bag to com-plete his look.

Through a translator, Han explained that prayer ribbons at the Freedom Bridge along the Demilitarized Zone in Korea prompted his use of the selvage strips.

“It’s like a message,” said Han,32, who worked for Korean brands Wooyoungmi and

Leigh before launching his own brand.Muun, founded in 2013, currently sells at

Leclaireur in Paris, MK2UK in London, Sea-word in China.

Raeburn said he felt both Tonton and Munn showed a certain level of “business acumen” in terms of their presentations. The British designer said he liked that Tonon wants to grow sustainably rather than exponentially and he appreciated the construction of Munn’s garments.

Overall, he said he was impressed by the quality of the design talents he saw.

“I think we’ve all been pleased with the caliber,” he said. “Even if they were working with traditional techniques, they were able to move things forward.”

Similarly, Kotur said she sensed some of the participants had real potential to succeed beyond their home countries.

“It was nice to see innovation in a global context coming out of this region too,” she said.

The winners of the various regional Wool-mark competitions will compete at the wom-en’s wear and men’s wear finals in early 2017.

The competition’s overall 2016-17 winners in each category will each win 100,000 Australian dollars, or $74,955, and have their Woolmark Prize collections stocked in retailers including Harvey Nichols in the U.K., Australia’s David Jones, Japan’s Isetan, South Korea’s Boon the Shop and Matchesfashion.com.

Australian brands Macgraw and Exinfini-tas were named the regional finalists for the Australia and New Zealand region.

Faustine Steinmetz and Cottweiler were chosen as finalists of the British Isles regional.

Danish label Tonsure and German designer Tim Labenda took the prizes for Europe.

FASHION

Tonton and Munn Win Woolmark Asia Awards

Tonton’s winning look.

The New Couture ● Tradition and experimentation

made for an fascinating fall season.

Big Changes in the Atelier ● Valentino and Dior are thrust into

transition in the creative suite.

Swim City ● Brands at Miami Swim Week aim to

maintain momentum.

PLUS: ● Bridget Foley’s Diary ● Report Card ● Social Studies

Global Stock TrackerAs of close July 12, 2016

ADVANCERS

DECLINERS

Anta Sports Products Ltd. +5.26%

Matsuya Co. Ltd. +4.71%

Li & Fung Ltd. +4.56%

Ascena Retail Group Inc. +4.54%

Brunello Cucinelli SpA +4.46%

Ted Baker plc -2.85%

Unilever plc -2.12%

Debenhams Plc -1.73%

Luen Thai Holdings Ltd. -1.59%

Esprit Holdings Ltd. -1.55%

OUT THIS WEEK IN

“He’s the sixth Fendi child.”

— CARLA FENDI

ON KARL LAGERFELD

4 13 JULY 2016

Michael KorsMichael Kors’ love affair with hybrids continued this season with a fresh men’s wear collection full of new takes on everything from the suit to the track pant.

“The hybrid situation in men’s wear is more important this season,” he said. “We’re seeing traction. It’s what our guy is grabbing for.”

Case in point was a flared chambray pant paired with a fitted turtleneck, and a cardigan with

geometric hardware over a zip-up polo that Kors said would work as well at the office as on the weekend. “He’s not changing bags,” the designer said.

Geometric patterns played a key role in eye-popping polka dots, pixellated patterns and checks in short suits and oversize repp ties that paid homage to David Hockney. The hybrid mes-sage was also evident in the tailored trouser jean, a windbreaker blazer and a flowy anorak. — JEAN E. PALMIERI Ko

rs p

hoto

grap

h by

Geo

rge

Chi

nsee

Men’s Spring 2017Joseph AbboudWhen you officially open the second day of New York Fashion Week: Men’s at 9 a.m., it’s the gra-cious thing to do to treat your guests to breakfast.

That’s just what Joseph Abboud did on Tues-day, serving editors and retailers some hot (or cold) victuals prior to his spring show.

“We wanted to be civilized,” the designer said backstage before the show.

While the format may have been different, the collection was classic Abboud.

The tailored clothing and heavy line was “all linen-driven,” he said, in a traditional palette of white, ivory and a “Havana brown.”

Admitting that he is “not a huge fan of exag-gerated, big silhouettes,” Abboud did make a few

tweaks to the line, with trousers that were slightly more flared and deconstructed jackets that felt “breezy.”

There were also a few frayed edges, “but in a controlled way.”

This complemented the textures of the open-weave sweaters and served to enhance the Cuban flavor of the line.

Overall, the collection was classy and luxurious — and very men’s wear. (He even cast a who’s who of classic American models including Alex Lund-qvist and Sean O’Pry.) And that’s just how Abboud wants it. “You can’t be all things to all people,” he said. “I know who I am and this collection is very consistent with my philosophy of clothes.” — J.E.P.

Men’sCollections

Spring2017

Michael Kors

Joseph Abboud

13 JULY 2016 5Ph

otog

raph

s by

Gio

vann

i Gia

nnon

i

Robert GellerRobert Geller has a weakness for the New Romantics. This time, his love for the genre was in-fused with early Eighties Berlin youth. At that time, many young people were squatting in abandoned buildings and that created an incredible art scene, he said.

The rawness of that environment was soft-ened through the use of flowy silks in elongated trenchcoats, baggy basketball-length shorts and delicate varsity jackets.

Accents that added a level of sophistication included tonal paisleys, florals and subtle leopard prints.

The designer’s signature somber color palette got a blast of energy through the use of bright pinks, greens and oranges in trousers, T-shirts and pleated shorts.

Geller’s adventure to Germany proved one more time that his journey in men’s wear contin-ues to be on the mark. — ALEX BADIA

Gypsy SportOnly in the Gypsy Sport universe can soccer, anime characters and 1920 flapper references coexist in the same story.

The result was an inventive mash-up of soccer jerseys embellished with tassels and lace panel-ing and contrasted with playful floral Japanese cartoon prints. The cast of real people — “We only used six models,” said Gypsy Sport designer Rio Uribe backstage — came from Instagram and

Grindr, among others, and helped ground the creative effort.

Other inventive touches included mesh jer-seys and sheer chiffon in elongated tunics and track suits that served to create a good balance between the two opposite worlds.

The gender-fluid approach and the street-raw sensibility from seasons past continue to define the Gypsy Sport man. The collection certainly isn’t for everyone but is likely to influence others. — A.B.

Men’s Spring 2017

Robert Geller

Gypsy Sport

Men’sCollections

Spring2017

Robert Geller

6 13 JULY 2016

Carlos CamposThis season, the nomadic Carlos Campos man journeyed to the tobacco fields of Havana. “I have been going to Cuba for years,” said the designer backstage before his spring show, and it was truly evident in his reinterpretation of the traditional guayabera shirt he transformed into an elongated version that he renamed “The Jackebera,” as well as in loose jackets and even a bodysuit with utility pockets.

Military influences and bondage elements were seen throughout in the use of straps of dangling

belts on bodysuits and jackets. A monochromatic palette consisting of crisp whites, shades of green and Campos’ signature navy dominated the offer-ing, although he shook things up with an Art Deco graphic print that felt true to the Cuban era.

Women’s wear looks were introduced and blended well with the guayabera and military references.

But while the collection was a commercially friendly offering, it felt repetitive and clearly needed editing. — LUIS CAMPUZANO

Simon MillerIt’s clear that Chelsea Hansford and Daniel Corrigan, the team behind Simon Miller, are hy-perfocused on their fabrics. Aside from the spring collection’s earthy palette of olive, mustard and rust, which was derived from an olive plantation in Spain, the designers’ talking points centered around textiles — the kind that have been labored over but don’t feel or look like they have.

They’ve created T-shirts made from a mix of cotton and cashmere, textured linen shirts, a suede bomber jacket and sun-dyed canvas utility jackets and pants.

In terms of denim — the foundation of the brand — Corrigan and Hansford are growing their made in Japan collection and focusing on light washes.

They also introduced a line of swim trunks that could easily second as apparel for day. The trunks are made from a quick drying blend of nylon and cotton and feature details one would find on a pair of jeans.

Hansford said their women’s line continues to grow — it now makes up 65 percent of the busi-ness — but this collection showed their dedication to presenting interesting but viable ideas for men’s wear. — ARIA HUGHES

Men’s Spring 2017

Simon Miller

Carlos Campos

Men’sCollections

Spring2017

13 JULY 2016 7

Krammer & StoudtCelebrating the East L.A. culture of the cholos versus the surfers was the main message of Krammer & Stoudt’s spring collection.

High-waisted pleated pants and striped guayaberas expressed the Latin influence while palm-tree print shirts, Mexican blanket bomber jackets and technical anoraks with matching shorts brought the surfer to life.

While baseball shirts and workwear references enhanced the brand’s Americana signature, the overall collection felt modern and more diverse than in past seasons. — ALEX BADIA

Private PolicyPrivate Policy this season used its collection to deliver a social message against what it saw as an affront to humanity. The issue was detailed in a news article in the Associated Press titled: “Are slaves catching the fish you buy?” the designers said at their presentation.

The feeling of imprisonment was translated into a series of bond-age elements that were seen throughout the line in details such as harness ties and gathers. Other extreme elements included plastic aprons worn over pants made out of trash bags with a hazardous waste print on them.

The lineup was tamed through the use of shirting fabrics used in anoraks, sleeveless shirts and pajamas tops.

The brand’s signature silk bombers paired with matching trou-sers helped maintain a youthful point of view. But they were updat-ed this time in muted tones and styled with chains to drive home the overriding message of the season. — LUIS CAMPUZANO

StampdChris Stamp is another California-based men’s wear designer who’s gaining attention from the industry — earlier this year he was selected as one of the 10 finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award.

For his second showing at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Stamp expanded on his main proposition — streetwear-leaning contempo-rary clothes with military influences — by producing more knits and tailored clothing. The knits were mostly oversize with open weaves while the more formal pieces were still relaxed — Stamp’s version of a suit consists of a single-breasted blazer, shorts and an elongated T-shirt. He has also grown his footwear collection and showed slip-on soccer sandals that were worn with socks and a leather sneaker made in Portugal.

The designer, who opened his first store in Los Angeles earlier this year, also addressed the see-now-buy-now trend in a logical way by showing three fall looks that are available to purchase Wednesday and three other looks that will be available to purchase this fall.

“I want to get quicker to market,” he said. “We started as an online brand and I don’t want to get too far from that. I want to make sure that we are consistently putting stuff out.” — ARIA HUGHES

Men’s Spring 2017

Sta

mpd

pho

togr

aph

by T

hom

as Ia

nnac

cone

Krammer & Stoudt

Stampd

Private Policy

Men’sCollections

Spring2017

8 13 JULY 2016

GarciavelezCarlos Garciavelez continued to draw from his architectural background for spring, referencing the decay of roads, tunnels and bridges and the cities themselves.

Garciavelez offered a very pattern-heavy lineup, developing his own graphic prints and ex-ploring new styles of construction that resulted in some unique novelty pieces. These included a tank top layered over a hooded sweatshirt in one piece and pants turned inside out revealing exposed cargo pockets and exposed seams as embellish-ment details. Such tricks managed to achieve a balance between relaxed and sporty. — LUIS CAMPUZANO

ChapterChapter’s Devin Carlson, who is based in Califor-nia, has developed a look that’s rooted in nostalgia from the Nineties — his last collection referenced the movie “Swingers” — and this season 1996 was on the brain. He looked to Baz Luhrmann’s “Romeo and Juliet” starring Claire Danes and Leonardo DiCaprio, which was released that year, and light sculpture artist Dan Flavin, who died that year.

The blue lights that illuminated the room were an ode to Flavin, but Luhrmann’s film was central to the impressive lineup of boxy, high-waisted trousers and shorts styled with elongated bomber jackets, bowling shirts and mock neck T-shirts with drapey sleeves. Zipper details, a Chapter signature, decorated the pieces along with tonal embroidery that read “1996.” Carlson, who said his bottoms are popular with retailers, updated the pants silhouette with a slight bell shape. He also worked with prints for the first time, which were mostly floral or palm motifs, and synthetic fabrics to create an easy drape.

Carlson’s approach seems to be working. In addition to being sold at U.S. retailers including American Rag, Odin, Ron Herman and Revolve, he’s recently been picked up by Harvey Nichols and Selfridges and will launch a women’s line, which will be sold at Need Supply, this fall. — ARIA HUGHES

Uri MinkoffIn an increasingly digital world, people need to slow down and live in the moment. For Uri Minkoff, that point was driven home during a recent visit to Como, Italy, where he was struck by the different hues of blue, white and pink.

He translated that message in his spring collection, where he sought to slow down time by using dancers moving in slow motion to model the lineup. Their subtle moves allowed the technical elements of the fabric — performance-grade nylon, sport jerseys, stretch cotton twill — to shine.

Minkoff’s love for cycling and triathlons — and the materials used in the sport — were evident in biking zip-up tops and articulated panels on the back of the pants. These details added a late Nine-ties retro feel and an interesting cool factor. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

N-p-ElliottNicholas Elliott, who was showing at New York Fashion Week: Men’s for the first time, set out to create a collection full of contrasting elements. For example, a houndstooth check fabric, which is typically associated with more formal wear, was used for a pair of drawstring shorts, while a traditional car coat was updated with a vinyl collar. Texture seems to be a calling card for Elliott, who also utilized velour, canvas, wool, cotton and ultra suede. Ecclesiastical references were also a key element of the line — religious emblems and cross embroidery appeared on tank tops and a sweat-shirt that read “Holy.”

While Elliott had big ideas and multiple points of inspiration, he was able to boil them down into a cohesive, spirited collection that felt of the moment but also forward. — A.H.

EFMEFM flirted with gender lines for spring, reimag-ining men’s wear staples in mesh cardigans and fluid oversize ponchos.

Models walked down the runway with face and body paint — notably a band around their necks — that designer Donrad Duncan said “signifies strength to bring out the femininity of the males and masculinity of the females.” Highlights of the line included ripstop parkas with athletic shorts and compression leggings, and a graphic window-pane bomber paired with cuffed trousers.

EFM, shorthand for Engineered for Motion, con-tinues to use movement in easy silhouettes and relaxed fits to remain true to its signature mission. — FREDERICK MARFIL

OakOak made its return to New York Fashion Week: Men’s showing a collection on Monday that fit right into the ethos of the city the brand calls home.

Cofounders Louis Terline and Jeff Madalena, who regained control of their business after the bankruptcy filing of former parent American Apparel, offered a comfortable, basics-driven collection that was inspired by the artists who populate the brand’s Brooklyn neighborhood. From paint-splattered shoes to easy Ts, cropped pants, golf jackets and sweats, it was a “super-pragmatic line” that all worked together to tell a cohesive story, Terline said.

And this being New York, there was the req-uisite black leather — in this case, shorts. “We’re New Yorkers,” Terline said. “Bondage is always a subtext.” — J.E.P.

RideauDylan Granger wanted to leave something to the imagination, so he opted to show only eight looks for his spring collection. “There’s more to come,” he said.

What he did offer up was a line influenced by the “beachy vibe of a Malibu sunset.” The shorts, elongated hooded sweatshirts and a soft suede biker jacket in a dusty orange provided a certain warmth to the minimal offering, but the wildly patterned silk suits missed the mark. — J.E.P.

Men’s Spring 2017

Uri Minkoff

N-p-Elliott

Chapter

Garciavelez

Oak

Rideau

EFM

Men’sCollections

Spring2017

13 JULY 2016 9

● Shops are planned for East Hampton, N.Y., and Bryn Mawr, Pa.

BY JESSICA IREDALE

Beth Buccini is bringing Kirna Zabête beyond New York City with two stores. A sea-sonal outpost of the women’s designer retailer is opening Friday in East Hampton, N.Y., and a permanent store will open in November in Bryn Mawr, Pa., on Philadelphia’s Main Line.

Kirna Zabête has been a retail fixture in New York’s SoHo neighborhood since Buccini and her friend and longtime partner Sarah Easley first opened the original store on Greene Street in 1999, moving to a larger space on Broome Street in 2013. After 17 years running the business together, in January Buccini bought out Easley’s equity stake.

“Sarah and I were trying to figure out what we were going to do with the business,” said Buccini. “It was my goal to move forward and open more stores and really grow the e-com-merce business. That’s exactly what I’ve been doing for the past six months.”

The East Hampton seasonal store has come together rather quickly. Buccini scouted the space and signed the lease on what was formerly Gail Rothwell’s store at 66 Newtown Lane over Memorial Day weekend. Buccini owns a home in nearby Amagansett and knows the shopping patterns of the local customer after holding several one-day pop-ups in summers past. “They were hugely successful,” she said of the pop-ups. “I found that women really had a hunger to shop when they’re out there the entire summer. They’re looking for cute clothes to wear out that night and also trying to get organized for fall.”

In a little more than a month after signing

the lease for the store, which will be open through Sept. 15, Buccini worked with interior designer Michelle Bergeron to tweak the space, painting it with the signature Kirna Zabête red of the SoHo store while creating something “cheerful and beachy and happy.” As for securing merchandise for an entirely new store on such short notice, Buccini said she had her bases covered between immedi-ate orders and fall merchandise before she signed the lease.

“The fall merchandise has been pouring in and our customer is really [in the Hamptons] in the summer,” she said. “We do a signifi-cantly large buy because we also do e-com-merce. It’s all of the same inventory — we’ll still keep the New York store fully in tact.”

Lines Kirna Zabête will carry in East Hampton include Céline, Alaïa, Gucci, Fendi,

Vetements, Rosie Assoulin and Off-White, as well as beachier fare like Lisa Marie Fernan-dez and Marysia.

The Bryn Mawr store is a bigger, more strategic commitment. Buccini moved her family to the Main Line area five years ago. “I’ve been observing the fashion and I found women are hungry for new ideas and excited about fashion and they’re really under-served,” she said. “I really went deep into the demographics in the area. There are so many universities and private schools all around, and really the only game in town is the mall.”

Soon after Buccini bought out Easley’s stake, she began scouting locations in the Main Line. The store will open in Bryn Mawr Village, a new development catering toward a high-end clientele, at 915 West Lancaster Avenue, Suite 170. Kirna Zabête took a 32,000-square-foot space in a former garage. Its neighbors include La Colombe coffee shop and an Italian wine bar, Tredici, owned by Philadelphia restauranteur Greg Dodge. Buccini said the store’s competition will be Neiman Marcus in King of Prussia, and Saks

Fifth Avenue in Bala Cynwyd.Interior designer Steven Gambrel, who also

designed Kirna Zabête’s New York stores, will design the Bryn Mawr location. “It’s going to be very similar to what the New York store looks like but a little bit lighter and softer,” said Buccini. She plans to open the store with resort collections from brands including Céline, Chloé, Stella McCartney, Rosie Assou-lin, Proenza Schouler, Sergio Rossi and Aquaz-zura, as well as a casual element represented by Golden Goose, Off-White, Piamita and R13.

Buccini declined to discuss sales figures but said Kirna Zabête’s e-commerce has grown dramatically and the store is up 12 percent overall for the year. Buccini is Kirna Zabête’s sole owner and has not taken on any investment for the two new stores. “I feel like it’s really a time for specialty stores,” she said. “Women want something unique and interesting and personal. In a world where everything has gotten so mass, I’m hoping we’re catering to this customer and reach-ing her in markets where there’s untapped potential.”

FASHION

Kirna Zabête Expands With Two New Stores

● The American model’s first ad will break in January 2017.

BY JENNIFER WEIL

PARIS — Lancôme is adding to its star-stud-ded roster of ambassadors, with the nomi-nation of Taylor Hill on Tuesday.

The American model will appear in the L’Oréal-owned brand’s advertisements for makeup and skin care beginning in January 2017. The first campaign featuring Hill is being shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.

Françoise Lehmann, international general manager of Lancôme, said Hill “rep-resents a modern Lancôme, in harmony with its time, with a subtle mix of sensual-ity, ingenuousness and sweet yet striking beauty.”

Lehmann added: “She is a very inspiring young woman for her generation: She is immensely curious, open-minded and has a positive outlook on life.”

The 20-year-old has appeared in adver-tising and walked the runways for many major fashion houses. Hill recently became a Victoria’s Secret Angel, as well.

She has recently tried her hand at acting, making a silver screen debut in this year’s

“The Neon Demon,” which was directed by Nicolas Winding Refn.

Lancôme called her a “role model of a generation of free spirits, who follow her on Snapchat and Instagram.” On social media, where Hill posts about her experiences at runway show backstages, red carpets and music festivals, she has garnered more than four million followers.

Lancôme described Hill as a “genera-tional icon” and a “liberated young woman who, like many others, handles paradoxes like an art of happiness and a source of positive energy.”

“I love the vision behind this feminine brand,” Hill stated. “This new role of ambassadress is a major step in my career, a dream that has become reality.”

Lancôme’s other ambassadors include a bevy of models and actresses, including Lupita Nyong’o, Julia Roberts, Penelope Cruz, Kate Winslet and — most recently — Isabella Rossellini.

The brand in March said it would collab-orate again with Rossellini, who was the first face of Lancôme, beginning in 1983. The actress served as its ambassador for 14 years. Lancôme signed the 64-year-old on as a “muse” or spokesmodel.

BEAUTY

Taylor Hill Named Lancôme AmbassadorTaylor Hill

Hill

pho

togr

aph

by J

osep

h Pa

radi

so a

nd Y

uki/L

ancô

me

Beth Buccini

A rendering and mood board for Kirna Zabete’s Bryn Mawr, PA store.

10 13 JULY 2016

● Despite two recent terrorist attacks, the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety is on track to remediate all critical safety issues in its active factories by 2018.

BY KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — The Alliance for Ban-gladesh Worker Safety is pushing forward and making progress on safety remedi-ation in the garment industry despite two recent terrorist attacks that claimed the lives of 23 people and sparked fears among apparel brands, its country direc-tor said Tuesday.

“Despite the unspeakable tragedies, the Alliance and its member companies will continue to stay the course, because improving safety for the millions of men and women who make a living in Bangla-desh’s garment sector is a moral imper-ative,” said James Moriarty, Alliance country director, who briefed reporters from Dhaka on a second quarterly safety progress report.

The Alliance — made up of 28 mainly U.S. firms, including Wal-Mart Stores Inc., Target Corp., Gap Inc. and VF Corp. — was formed in the aftermath of the Rana Plaza tragedy, which claimed the lives of 1,133 workers and injured more than 2,000, along with the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, comprised of 200 mostly European com-panies with two global unions, Industri-ALL and UNI Global Union.

Concern and fear has spread in Bangla-desh in the wake of a terrorist attack in Dhaka that killed 20 hostages, followed by a bombing that killed three people just outside of the city.

Moriarty said many brands and retail-ers have Bangladeshi or South Asian personnel on the ground in Dhaka, who continue to operate, but he acknowl-edged that some buying teams from the U.S. and other countries are not trav-eling to the country in light of security concerns.

The State Department issued two travel warnings in the past week, advis-ing Americans to “carefully consider the risks of traveling there” and authorizing the voluntary departure of family mem-bers of U.S. government personnel at the U.S. Embassy in Bangladesh.

“The U.S. government assesses that the terrorist threat is real and credible,” the agency warned.

“What we are seeing, to some degree, is a lot of major brands holding off unnecessary travel, or implementing a travel ban for external personnel coming into Bangladesh at this point in time,” Moriarty said. “I am not aware of any-body withdrawing personnel from Ban-gladesh, nor aware of anybody canceling contracts. I think there is an inclination to do business in Bangladesh. It is an important player.”

Asked if he was concerned about long-term damage to Bangladesh’s image and economy from the attacks, Moriarty said he believes if there is effective action taken quickly, the long-term impact will be limited.

“If things worsen, then the country will be in for a rough time,” he said. “There is a lot of anger in Bangladesh about what happened. People think this is not the way Bangladeshis behave. This is non-Bangladesh, non-Islamic. That gives me hope. There is really a revulsion to what happened with the two attacks.”

The Alliance, now at the halfway point of its five-year initiative, performs

independent inspections on the struc-tural, electrical and fire-safety aspects of all factories from which its members source.

Factories receive corrective action plans aimed at helping address safety issues and achieving compliance with the Alliance’s safety standards. The group also provides technical advice and access to low-cost loans to assist factories with remediation. It said it is on track to reme-diate all critical safety issues in its active factories by 2018.

Moriarty gave a quarterly progress report, noting there have been several “positive developments” related to fac-tory safety improvements.

He said 28 factories to date have completed corrective action plans, an increase of 17 percent since the previous update, in April. The Alliance’s member companies currently source from about 677 factories in Bangladesh.

“Across all factories, more than one-third of issues most critical to life safety have already been addressed, two years ahead of the deadline,” he said.

Six additional factories have been sus-pended since the first quarter, bringing the total to 83, as previously reported.

“Make no mistake — our work is achieving the big-picture goal of driv-ing consolidation in the [ready-made garment] industry in Bangladesh into safer factories,” he said. “What we are seeing is safe factories replacing more dangerous ones and, frankly, hiring most of the workers that are coming out of the factories that exist already.”

Moriarty said he did not have an exact number of factories that have closed permanently, but said there is a mix of results from the suspensions, including

factory owners closing down facilities that cannot be remediated and opening new ones.

The Alliance has also changed and updated how it evaluates factory prog-ress on remediation, after coordinating with stakeholders, he added.

“With this new approach, we avoid penalizing factories that are making steady progress but may be stalled in some areas due to circumstances they cannot control, like delays in importing necessary equipment,” Moriarty said. “It allows us to encourage factories to fast-track remediation issues most critical to life safety rather than concentrate on relatively simple, not-as-critical fixes.”

The Alliance is also in the process of providing retraining to some 1.2 mil-lion workers trained on fire safety and providing “refresher” courses to about 600,000 workers. In addition, 22,000 security guards working in Alliance facto-ries have received safety training.

“We’ve also provided financial compensation to nearly 7,000 workers displaced by remediation, fulfilling 100 percent of the requests by factory owners and helping workers provide for themselves and their families despite temporary closures,” he added.

The group has completed training for democratically elected worker-safety committees at 34 factories and expects to launch training at 60 more factories in the next few months.

As for the end of the five-year Alli-ance commitment in mid-2018, he said there are discussions under way for a transition and noted, “We have gotten to a point where our member companies really are sourcing from substantially safer factories.”

BUSINESS

Bangladesh Alliance Staying the Course, Cites Progress

● Import cargo volume at major retail container ports should see an increase.

BY ARTHUR FRIEDMAN

Import cargo volume at the nation’s major retail container ports should see a “small but significant increase” this month as merchants stock up for the back-to-school season, then see a larger wave in late summer and fall for the holiday shopping season, according to the monthly Global Port Tracker report released Tuesday by the National Retail Federation and Hackett Associates.

“Back-to-school and the holidays are the two biggest shopping seasons of the year for retailers and these numbers reflect that,” said Jonathan Gold, vice president for supply chain and customs policy at NRF. “After a year of difficult

comparisons in the wake of the West Coast ports slowdown, we’re finally starting to see normal trends. Some numbers are still down from last year, but the pattern of building up toward the big seasons has returned.”

Ports covered by Global Port Tracker handled 1.63 million Twenty-Foot Equivalent Units, or TEUs, in May. That was up 12.8 percent from April and 1.1 percent from May 2015. One TEU is the equivalent of one 20-foot cargo container.

June was estimated at 1.56 million TEU, down 0.5 percent from the same month last year. July is forecast at 1.64 million TEU, up 1.4 percent from last year; August at 1.65 million TEU, down 2 percent; September at 1.58 million TEU, down 2.6 percent; October at 1.62 mil-lion TEU, up 4.4 percent, and November at 1.52 million TEU, up 2.8 percent.

Even though volume will be lower than the same month last year, August is expected to be the peak shipping month of the year.

The first half of 2016 is expected to total 8.99 million TEU, up 1.5 percent from the same period in 2015. Total volume for 2015 was 18.2 million TEU, up 5.4 percent from 2014.

“Trade is holding on to a small margin of growth, but this growth comes in the face of some adverse statistics, as well as positive ones,” said Hackett Associates founder Ben Hackett. “The good news is that retail sales have remained positive as the consumer continues to cautiously spend. The hope is that this spending will continue.”

Global Port Tracker, which is pro-duced for NRF by the consulting firm Hackett Associates, covers the U.S. ports of Los Angeles/Long Beach; Oakland, Calif., and Seattle and Tacoma, Wash., on the West Coast; New York/New Jer-sey; Hampton Roads, Va.; Charleston, S.C.; Savannah, Ga.; and Port Everglades and Miami, Fla., on the East Coast, and Houston on the Gulf Coast.

BUSINESS

Retail Imports on Rise for B-t-s

Ban

glad

esh

phot

ogra

ph b

y R

EX/S

hutt

erst

ock

An informal garment factory

located on the outskirts of the

center of Dhaka.

Ports covered by Global Port Tracker handled 1.63 million

TEUs in May.

13 JULY 2016 11

● There were 15,000 people, 90 brands, 230 influencers and a handful of celebrities squeezing into the Los Angeles Convention Center.

BY RACHEL BROWN

Nothing conveys the sway of social media more powerfully than long lines.

The medium has become so ubiquitous that it has catapulted ordinary people and common place brands into super stars on the world’s most dominant stage.

This was evident at Beautycon on Satur-day at the Los Angeles Convention Center. It was impossible to escape teenagers and twentysomethings — and the occasional mystified parent — queuing to get inside the venue, scour the latest from cosmetics brands once they were inside and make contact with their favorite content creators. The wait to greet digital beauty influencer Kandee Johnson pushed 90 minutes, and the line kept growing as the seconds ticked by.

“This is where it all goes down. There are literally thousands and thousands of beauty customers and people in general that want to learn,” said Mally Roncal, founder of Mally Beauty, setting the scene from her brand’s station at the QVC booth. “I love teaching, educating and inspiring and, obvi-ously, making products that can help them achieve what they want to achieve — and they are all right here.”

Specifically, there were 15,000 people, 90 brands, 230 influencers and a handful of celebrities, notably Tyra Banks, Kelly Row-land, Christina Milian and Ashley Tisdale, crowding 200,000 square feet. Atten-dance at Beautycon, a sort of conference, community meet-up and entertainment show wrapped into one, has doubled in three years, and it’s part of a constellation of events — Generation Beauty and IMATS are two others — that’s expanded greatly as social media and beauty information on the various platforms has exploded.

Among the Beautycon attendees was Yasmin Khalil, a recent college graduate and sophomore visitor to Beautycon, who was happy to brave the lines for a chance to interact with brands and social media personalities. She had Maybelline, Lime Crime, NYX and Tarte on her wish list of brands to check out. “This year is much better than last year. Last year, we were outside waiting in the line for two hours. It was hot, and we were cramped, but it’s so much fun and everybody is so nice,” Khalil said. “This year, it’s much more organized and functional. It’s moving well.”

A makeup hobbyist displaying her beauty creations on Instagram under @makeme-upyaz, Khalil asserted that participation in Beautycon is critical for brands to stay in touch with Millennial preferences. “Some-times when you are in corporations, you are trying to make money and a profit, you don’t really realize what’s going on with girls our age. It’s important to see how we act, how we are, what’s important to us and to learn how best to cater to us with products,” Khalil said.

Brands are increasingly open to having

two-way conversations with consumers as well as digital influencers. Julep was inviting attendees to vote on its next lip color, an initiative that’s emblematic of the brand’s approach to soliciting consumer opinions. “When we do collaborations with women whether it is on art, packaging or actually involving them in making decisions about product development, we try to deeply understand what they care about and reflect that in what we do,” said Jane Park, chief executive officer and founder of Julep. “The companies that will succeed will break down walls that don’t need to exist.”

Angel Merino, a social media personality with the Twitter handle @mac_daddyy_, advised brands not simply to consider sales figures when reaching out to digital influencers. “It’s about building a genuine, sincere relationship where a brand isn’t just seeing you as a number, but they are really

trying to develop a relationship and are helping you achieve your goals,” he said. “When brands develop that relationship, everything flows so genuinely and the influ-encer is more receptive to any ideas the brand has for campaigns or online social media promotion.”

Although there’s been a flood of col-laborations between social media beauty gurus and brands, neither brands nor gurus believe they are ebbing. The social media personality MakeupShayla, whose palette with Tarte has been a hit, suggested brand-influencer partnerships are still in their early stages. “Brands are starting to realize the power of influencers. Even a year ago, I feel a lot of brands were like, ‘Let’s find celebrities. Let’s find celebrities.’ So many people relate to influencers that the brands are now [saying] ‘Oh, that is what we need to be doing.’ For the most part, brands are starting to get it,” she said.

“On the back end, they don’t understand a lot of things about social media, and we are here to teach them.”

Enthusiasm for collaborations at Beauty-con demonstrates why they’re multiplying. Beautycon attendees, eighth-graders and friends Adanna Ogu and Nikki Olaleye were clearly excited about the YouTubers they follow connecting with beauty brands to release products. “You already like the makeup, but when your favorite people are helping out with the makeup, it’s a double whammy,” Olaleye said. Ogu chimed in, “It’s almost like receiving a little piece of them in your hands. It’s kind of sacred.”

Social media sensations aren’t only leveraging their audiences with product collaborations, they’re turning them into customers for their own brands. “With the way that social media is growing and what a big platform it is and how it has catapulted

so many careers, I definitely see a lot more people taking that leap and developing their own products,” said Merino, who launched the brand Artist Couture in 2014. “Many newer brands are popping and thriving because of social, and I think that’s the direction that the beauty industry is taking.”

Not all social media-sparked brands will prosper, as social media influencer Kristen Leanne, founder of hair color brand Arctic Fox, knows too well. “It takes a lot of perseverance. You have to try, try and try again. I’ve had many brands that failed and, when you have a failure, you have to take the learnings from that and put it into your next brand. One out of 10 isn’t going to be successful. You have to stay ambitious,” she said. “I had a boutique before, and a lot of people were doing boutiques. There are not as many hair color brands as there are makeup and clothing brands, so it was

easier that way, and it’s something I’m truly passionate about. I’ve been coloring my hair for so long.”

Ambition certainly doesn’t seem to be an issue for social media stars. Merino has big plans for Artist Couture, which sells three products: Diamond Glow Powder, Luxurious Cheek Colour and Kissable Lip Laque. He detailed, “My goal for the brand is to have a full product line that can deliver your start-to-finish makeup routine and to start to retail at a department store.” Make-upShayla aspires to be a spokeswoman for a major makeup brand. She said, “I would love to walk into a store and see my picture everywhere kind of like how Zendaya is the face of Cover Girl. Something like that would be awesome.”

Excusing social media sensations, their brands and the beauty trends they propel as short-lived would be foolhardy. Ellen Lennon, director of merchandising for QVC, explained trends fueled by social media have had lasting impacts. “Contouring now has been a trend for a few years as has highlighting. They’ve always been strong for us. It’s just that now they are being brought to the forefront. To us, it’s not an in-and-out flash in the pan. It’s really long term,” she said.

Partially powered by social media, color cosmetics remains a stellar category for QVC and the beauty industry generally. Len-non said, “Lip has been really strong for us

and also highlighting. Our customer loves highlighting. We also have a huge complex-ion business and that continues to grow. We are really excited to see lip jump as much as it has from last year.”

It’s left to brands to figure out exactly how to incorporate the social media-driven makeup concepts in manners that are relevant to them. “When I saw that baking was going to be a big thing, I thought most people my age — I’m 44 now — don’t nec-essarily have time to bake. I created a con-cealer that is pre-baked. It does everything for you that you get when you bake your concealer. It brightens and sets, and it does it in one tube,” said Roncal, referring to a term for layering powder over foundation and concealer for a creaseless face. “I have been putting a lot of these trends into my products, so that the customer doesn’t have to actually do the trend, the product does the trend for them.”

BEAUTY

Beautycon Draws Brands, Influencers

The scene at Beautycon 2016.

Phot

ogra

ph b

y M

icha

el B

uckn

er

Amazon down 0.7 percent on Tuesday to $748.21. Still, that left the company with a market capitalization of $353 billion — $125 billion higher than Wal-Mart Stores Inc.’s $228 billion and a sign of just how much a competitor Amazon has become across the retail world.

Amazon did not release any sales data for the day as of press time. The online shopping day started off on something of a sour note, with a glitch in the checkout process leaving some Prime members struggling to cash in on deals.

As the day wore on, the focus turned mainly to the discounts. While many of the Prime Day deals centered on electronics, there were plenty of price cuts in the fashion and beauty area, including up to 50 percent off electric shavers and hair tools, 30 percent off apparel, shoes jewelry and watches, and up to 60 percent off athletic shoes.

Fossil, for example, had a Fossil Q Founder Stainless Steel Touchscreen Smartwatch for 30 percent off its $295, making it $206.50. (WWD found that same watch on Fossil.com, also marked down from $295 to $205.99.) A BCBGeneration dress that was originally $148 on Amazon and at Lord & Taylor and Bloomingdale’s sites was 30 percent off, making it $103.60. Badgley Mischka heels that were originally $245 (the same as on Nordstrom’s and Lord & Taylor’s sites), were $171.50.

Amazon’s house brands in fashion and accessories were also seeing discounts. A pair of men’s Franklin & Freeman boots were $64.75, down from $92.50, and a lace Lark & Ro dress, positioned among the likes of Anne Klein and Calvin Klein, was $34.52, down from $49.31.

“I give Amazon a lot of credit for giving people a reason to buy,” said Edward Yruma of Pacific Crest Securities. “When we look at how other retailers do promotions like

Black Friday, they just want to drive traffic in. What’s so thoughtful about how they have architected Prime is that the things they give a discount on are ways to keep making money off of you. It’s a sale, but the intent is to drive focus on the things that they have been working on.”

Charlie O’Shea, lead retail analyst at Moody’s Investors Service, compared Prime Day with a “Ph.D. course in pricing and pro-moting in one day.”

“Other retailers have to consider how long do we have to go and at what point do we walk away from a sale,” O’Shea said. “Retail-ers can’t be as good as Amazon’s ecosystem. It’s just not going to happen.”

The analyst also noted that Amazon is serving up deals and pointing customers to its broader assortment.

“When you look at the ‘frequently bought together’ suggestions, the additive pieces are not on sale and that’s where Amazon gets it margins,” he said.

Shoppers keen on making a purchase likely head to Amazon first to check out prices and options, then check out other sites to com-pare pricing, O’Shea said.

“That checking creates a spillover to other sites….Most brick-and-mortars have upped their online sites, and mobile is better than they were three or four years ago,” he said. “If I’m a retailer, I want to be second in line. I want to be the site they go to after checking Amazon.”

The shopping rush has started to spread across the industry, in the vein of Alibaba’s Singles Day or Hallmark’s Valentine’s Day. Retailers such as J.C. Penney Co. Inc., Bon-Ton, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. and Jet.com were offering discounts and free shipping to draw shoppers. Unlike Valentine’s Day, though, they don’t refer to the offers as “Prime Day.” Penney went with “Penney Palooza,” for example, and Wal-Mart has barely mentioned its free shopping and rollbacks on Twitter.

Amazon does not reveal the date of Prime Day until a month or less before the sales day, which makes it harder for other retailers to plan competing events in advance.

“Given the fact that Amazon controls not only the timing of Amazon Prime Day, but also the timing of when they announce it, retailers will have a tough time trying to compete on such short notice,” said James Prewitt, vice president of retail industry strategy, North America, at JDA Software. “The breadth of their mix on Prime through what they sell themselves and what they fulfill for others through their marketplace is far greater than what other major retailers can do on their own.”

HookLogic, which studied traffic and conversion data of the e-commerce sites of retailers such as Target Corp., Macy’s Inc. and Wal-Mart, said traffic was up “across the board” by midday Tuesday.

Some sites saw three-times more traffic than average. Among the top categories were electronics, which lead with a 22 percent increase compared with an average Tuesday, and apparel and accessories, furniture and sporting goods. And HookLogic anticipated larger increases later in the day.

The budding shopping holiday is seen by some as the first major sales event happening primarily on mobile.

“Prime Day is the first mobile-first loyalty event ever, let alone one at such a massive scale,” said Demandware and NewStore founder Stephan Schambach. “It’s strikingly clear that Prime Day is built mobile-up, with deals, gadgets and content all focused on mobile consumers. Amazon is pushing its shopping app as the hub for Prime Day, which it continues to use as a fundamental tool to increase customer loyalty and therefore, revenue.

“Amazon has consistently demonstrated its ability to break through the noise, whether that’s using Prime to drastically alter con-sumer shopping behavior or using same-day delivery to offer instant gratification,” Scham-bach said. “Prime Day is the first mobile-up shopping event for a simple reason: The experience is as good, if not better, on mobile as it is on desktop.”

Amazon has also been actively touting the day on social media with a wink and a nod. When Matthew Ackerman @metalmmaniac tweeted, “Didn’t really expect to find an engagement ring on Prime Day, but here I am. Helluva deal, too,” Amazon tweeted back, “Yes. A million times, yes! We thought you’d never ask.”

Adobe Digital Insights studied more than four million engagements on social platforms on Prime Day this year and last year, and found that “sadness” was down this year while “joy” was up. It did note that the reason for sadness this year was due to people not being able to add items and checkout, com-pared with last year’s complaint of minimal deals.

Prime Day is still primarily a U.S. event, although mentions of the shopping day in the United Kingdom are up 44 percent from last year, according to Adobe.

Prime members pay $99 a year for benefits such as free two-day shipping and streaming of movies and TV episodes, and last year was the single biggest sales day for Amazon — including the holiday shopping season.

Analysts estimate Amazon has more than 45 million Prime members and designs to keep growing its base. “Amazon Prime Day does more than drive brand awareness and revenue for the company,” said Mike Elmgreen, chief marketing officer of B2B commerce platform Handshake. He said that it’s a reminder to the industry of the power of combining an easy online ordering experi-ence with streamlined fulfillment.

Greg Greeley, vice president of Amazon Prime, said: “We are always working to make sure customers find incredibly low prices on Amazon. Prime Day is designed to go above and beyond for our Prime members. While the inventory behind our Prime Day deals this year is massive, at these prices, we expect many deals will still sell quickly.”

12 13 JULY 2016

Amazon Prime DayYields Gains, Glitches CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1

The second outing of Amazon Prime Day started with a glitch, but focused on the deals.

● Nearly half of U.S. consumers bought clothes on Amazon in the past 12 months.

BY DEBRA BORCHARDT

U.S. shoppers expect to increase their online clothing purchases and Amazon is driving and benefiting from the shift.

Morgan Stanley analyst Brian Nowak noted that 52 percent of shoppers have bought clothes online in the last 12 months and this is expected to rise, with 29 percent of online clothing shoppers saying they would increase the amount they spend over the next year.

Amazon is capturing more and more of these dollars. Forty-five percent of U.S. consumers bought clothes on Amazon in the past 12 months, up from 39 percent in the first quarter of 2015. “This is the largest year-over-year increase of the 10 retailers we monitor,” Nowak said. “Amazon now has a two times-plus clothing shopper reacher advantage.”

Nowak believes that by 2018, Amazon

will own 10.1 percent of all U.S. apparel spending, up from the 5.1 percent in 2015. He has also said apparel makes up 16 percent of Amazon’s gross merchan-dise volume.

While women still like to shop in physical stores because of fit issues, there are categories that are performing well on Amazon. Casual tops and bot-toms account for 44 percent of shop-pers; 36 percent are going for partywear tops, and 27 percent are shopping for dresses.

Nowak said eBay was the only retailer in the survey where the U.S. online clothing shopper penetration declined year-over-year, falling to 14 percent from 16 percent.

Many department stores continue to see their own online business grow, but now their key vendors are joining forces with Amazon in order to not miss out on this juggernaut of fashion sales. The customer can choose to buy a Michael Kors handbag on either Amazon or on Macy’s online store. The difference is in the online experience. Macy’s may also find that Amazon could offer attractive

wholesale arrangements for the vendors with traditional markdown money.

Amazon is also driving this shift to online clothing purchases with its growing Prime membership. That base

is up 53 percent over the past two years. Nowak said, “As Amazon Prime membership/penetration grows, so too should Amazon’s overall share of U.S. clothing and apparel spend.”

BUSINESS

Analyst: Amazon Could Own 10 Percent of Fashion by ’18

Amazon continues to steal market share.

Here is Chiara Ferragni’s Amazon Fashion campaign.

12-nation Trans-Pacific Partnership — and, in so doing, muddied the outlook for the future of global sourcing and commerce.

TPP includes the U.S., Australia, Japan, Mexico, Canada, Vietnam, Malay-sia, Peru, Singapore, Chile, Brunei and New Zealand and would encompass nearly 40 percent of the world’s GDP.

Analysts and industry officials acknowledge the image of trade has been tarnished, making it more difficult to sway the argument in favor of free trade and open markets. But most said they do not believe the U.S. is headed back to the days of isolationism and protectionism, or the Smoot-Hawley Act of 1930 that significantly raised tariffs on imports, crippled trade and contributed to the Great Depression in the U.S.

Conventional wisdom points to a pres-idential candidate softening his or her tone and picking up the mantle of free trade once in office.

“Global trade will continue to expand even during the U.S. policy debate,” said Phillip Swagel, a professor of interna-tional economic policy at the University of Maryland. “The rest of the world is moving without us. Ultimately, that’s why any President will look to further trade agreements — it’s about U.S. leadership as much as about economic benefits, and there are many.”

Swagel said the opposition to trade stems from economic uncertainty.

“It’s an easy stand-in for our eco-nomic woes — slow growth, meager wage increases and stagnant incomes for many families,” he said. “The answers are not simple — there is no one mag-ic-wand action to fix these problems, but instead a range of policy changes are needed to boost growth.”

A key pillar of Democratic presump-tive nominee Hillary Clinton’s jobs plan is centered around cracking down on

unfair trade and countries that inten-tionally undervalue their currencies to gain an unfair commercial advantage. China, in particular, is often accused of doing that. If elected, Clinton has pledged to appoint a special trade prosecutor who directly reports to the president to enforce trade deals.

She has also said that she opposes the TPP trade deal as it is currently written and has outlined three criteria for trade deals: create American jobs, raise wages and advance national security.

Republican presumptive nominee Donald Trump, on the other hand, has vowed to withdraw the U.S. from TPP, label China a currency manipulator and renegotiate the North American Free Trade Agreement with Mexico and Can-ada, if elected.

Trump’s harsh populist tone on trade has many in the business community concerned. The industry has signifi-cant exposure to trade policies, having imported $100.1 billion worth of apparel and textiles from the world, particularly from China, in the past year.

Rick Helfenbein, president and chief executive officer at the American Apparel & Footwear Association, said it is hard to judge what a trade world would look like with Trump in the White House.

“He is so against everything,” he said.He noted that in a Trump presidency,

TPP would have “zero chance,” while in a Clinton presidency, it would at least be “revisited.”

“Secretary Clinton’s position is differ-ent,” Helfenbein said. “She has come out against it, but you have to listen to what she has said. She said when she was working as Secretary of State it was supposed to be the gold standard, but when it was completed it didn’t meet her standards. What were her standards? New jobs for Americans and raising wages for Americans. These are, at least in my opinion, positions that could be repaired.

“She has left some negotiating room. He has left no negotiating room,” Helfen-bein added.

Gary Hufbauer, senior fellow at the

Peterson Institute for International Economics, said if Clinton is elected she “will rediscover the geopolitical ratio-nale for trade.”

“She has subscribed to that [in the past]. That’s why she said TPP was a gold standard [while serving as Secretary of State under Obama],” he added. “She’ll re-prioritize it and then come back to it with her changes. It might not be a high priority in 2017 but by 2018, she will probably be pushing it again.

“If Trump is president, I think it [TPP] goes in the trash,” Hufbauer predicted. “Of course, he has reversed himself on other issues, but this is such a leading part of his campaign that it would be very hard for him to reverse on this.”

Trump’s antitrade rhetoric has some former Bush administration trade offi-cials concerned.

David Spooner, a partner at Barnes & Thornburg LLP, who was the chief tex-tile and apparel negotiator at the Office of the U.S. Trade Representative from 2002 to 2006, said Trump’s rhetoric on trade has hurt the debate.

“With Trump it hurts, not only because he’s the party’s standard-bearer, of course, but also because he’s a busi-nessman. I think voters see him as an international businessman and [think] he must be right if he thinks trade agree-ments are terrible,” Spooner said.

The country could pull back from trade for a while before “people realize again that opening markets is good for the U.S. and other countries” and a new president has time to put a trade team in place, Spooner said.

Sheng Lu, assistant professor for the Department of Fashion & Apparel Stud-ies at the University of Delaware, said he does not worry about the potential for trade wars because “nations are very rational these days. They understand the costs of trade wars. In the 21st century, [economies] are interdependent.

“China is the third largest export mar-ket for the U.S.,” Lu said. “The largest and second-largest are Canada and Mex-ico and that is because of NAFTA. A lot of U.S. businesses benefit from a stable relationship with China. So I don’t think

[the rhetoric of imposing tariffs on China or Mexico] will become true. That is just presidential election year rhetoric and really has no meaning to policy.”

Even if free trade takes a pause in the short-term, most experts believe the resurgence in U.S. manufacturing, particularly in textiles, will continue unabated.

“I think there are legitimate economic anxieties that American workers feel. Those are valid and folks who support free trade should not dismiss them,” said Josh Teitelbaum, deputy assistant secretary for textiles, consumer goods and materials at the Commerce Depart-ment. “But withdrawing from the world stage and failing to pass agreements like TPP does nothing to open up new markets.”

The Obama administration has been an active supporter of the textile industry, recently investing millions in a public-private institute to develop smart textiles and promoting the industry at trade shows around the world. It also negotiated strict rules in TPP to help protect the industry.

Teitelbaum acknowledged the U.S. textile and apparel industry went through a “difficult time” in the late Nineties and Aughts, a time when NAFTA was enacted and China joined the WTO. But he said there was also a paradigm shift in sourcing, primarily the lifting of global apparel and textile quotas and an “information technology revolution” where automation began substituting labor with technology.

He said the textile industry saw declines in shipments, sales and exports from 2000 through 2009.

Since then, the value of the industry’s shipments are up 13 percent, the value of sales up 20 percent and the value of exports grew 17 percent, “making up for the loss of exports in the first decade of the 21st century,” Teitelbaum said.

“We certainly went through difficult times but I think what we have seen is that we have come out of that period in the last six years with a textile industry that is more capital-intensive and com-petitive than it was before.”

13 JULY 2016 13

Presidential ElectionTarnishes Free Trade CONTINUED FROM PAGE 1

Global trade has been in the spotlight this

election season.

14 12 JULY 2016

For more information kmancuso@wwd.com or 646.356.4722summits.wwd.com

WWD Congratulates

Ralph LaurenThe Inaugural Recipient of

The John B. Fairchild Honor Given to an individual for a career of influence and distinction

At the WWD Apparel & Retail CEO Summit October 25, 2016

13 JULY 2016 15

LONDON — Britain’s new Prime Minister Theresa May takes up her post today in what promises to be a new era flush with tension, tough negotiations — and flashes of leopard print.

May, the second woman — after Margaret Thatcher — to hold the top post, is known among her parliamen-tary colleagues as a steady pair of hands, puritanical to her fingertips (she’s the daughter of an Anglican vicar), and an unapologetic lover of fashion.

The 59-year-old Conservative, most recently Britain’s home secretary and the woman charged with negotiating Britain’s exit from the European Union, possesses a snappy

wardrobe and stacks of statement shoes — kitten heels, embellished flats, over-the-knee boots and Union Jack trainers.

She wore Roland Mouret’s zip-back “Bitzer” dress to the Conserva-tive Party conference in September and has a closet full of Vivienne West-wood trouser suits and dresses. Her handbags hail from Anya Hindmarch (a fellow Conservative), Longchamp and Orla Kiely, and she favors British high-street brands Russell & Bromley, L.K. Bennett and Clarks for shoes.

Two years ago, May told the long-running BBC radio program “Desert Island Discs” that if she were a castaway, her one luxury would be a lifetime subscription to Vogue, while

her one book would be “Pride and Prejudice.”

Last October, during a speech at the Women in the World summit, she said: “I like clothes and I like shoes. One of the challenges for women in the workplace is to be ourselves, and I say you can be clever and like clothes. You can have a career and like clothes.”

Last year, the novelist Allison Pear-son, chief interviewer and columnist at the Daily Telegraph, described May in the Mouret Bitzer dress at the Conservative conference: “The look was Carmelite mother superior switches career to high-class escort, styled by Victoria Beckham. Mrs. May entered her 60th year exactly a week

ago, and she has never looked better. There is evidence she has been refining her image with a bid for the party leadership in mind.”

A member of parliament since 1997, May’s personal style has clearly blossomed over the decades. Her silhouettes are slim and fitted, from the cognac leather jacket to the bright, monochrome dresses and coats. She relies on accessories to make the look — navy suits are inevitably paired with leopard or zebra print shoes or gloves, and she’ll jazz up a black dress with red knee-high suede boots and a matching mock-croc handbag.

With her windswept blonde-gray bob, a bit of black eyeliner and a per-petual spring in her step, she’s cutting a swathe through Westminster which, like Capitol Hill, isn’t exactly teeming with style mavens. Even Thatcher was far from a fashion plate, favoring staid Aquascutum suits and her fa-mous Maggie Launer handbag, which she wielded more like a weapon than an accessory.

At best, female MPs favor frumpy suits and sensible haircuts. At worst, they try to make statements with gar-ish colors. On Monday, the Labour MP Angela Eagle declared her intention to become leader of the party dressed in a bubblegum pink jacket and black scoop neck top and trousers. She looked like an extra from “Grease.”

Once May’s fabulous suit of armor is on, she gets down to business. Known as a tough negotiator, a micro-manager and hard worker, she’s also been described by Ken Clarke, the conservative politician, as a “bloody difficult” woman. In typical style, she embraced the slur, saying Britain needs more “bloody difficult women.” After all, she’s the heir to Thatcher’s Iron Lady.

Indeed, both May and Thatcher come from middle class stock — rather than the upper-class echelons of former PM David Cameron and his crew — and both were educated at Oxford. May met her husband of 36 years, Philip May, at a Tory disco party there. (The two were introduced by fellow student, the late Benazir Bhutto, who would become prime minister of Pakistan that was assassinated in 2007.)

But while May is certainly poised to be as tough as Thatcher, the two would most certainly disagree on more than a few issues.

Socially progressive — May voted in favor of Britain’s same-sex marriage in 2013, and outlawed plans for national identity cards in order to protect people’s privacy — she’s pro-business but wants to halt

runaway capitalism.“We need a strong, new and

positive vision for the future of our country,” she said earlier this week. “A vision of a country that works not for the privileged few, but works for every one of us. Because we’re going to give people more control over their lives. That’s how together we will build a better Britain.”

As prime minister, her priority will be to usher Britain out of the European Union and negotiate a host of new trade agreements with Europe and the rest of the world. May actually voted to remain part of the EU, along with her predecessor Cameron. She was the Conservative Party favorite to be prime minister but didn’t nab the role until her pro-Brexit rival Andrea Leadsom dropped out of the race on Monday.

May has already set out a social-minded agenda, vowing to curb executive pay; put low-ranking workers on corporate boards, and champion the ordinary folk who feel they’ve been left behind in Britain’s boom years, which dumped dispro-portionate amounts of money into the pockets of London bankers and financial players.

As home secretary, May has also fought to keep immigration under control (something Thatcher would have also strongly favored), telling the Conservative Party conference

last year: “We know that for people in low-paid jobs, wages are forced down even further [as a result of immigra-tion] while some people are forced out of work altogether.”

Now, 26 years after Thatcher stepped down, another woman has become the U.K.’s prime minister. Thatcher’s decisiveness and Iron Lady-demeanor spurred Britain to an economic boom that lasted more than two decades and raised the nation’s profile worldwide, not just politically but in fashion, the arts and more. It turned her into a political icon — albeit a divisive one — who would lead the country for 11 years and create a movement, Thatcherism.

Just like her female predecessor, May becomes prime minister at a time when the country faces immense challenges — not simply Brexit and the divisions it left, but also huge income disparity between the north and south of the country; skyrocketing housing costs in London; an aging infrastructure and National Health Service, and how to maintain Britain’s place in global affairs once it no longer is part of the EU.

Thatcher had her handbags to help her maneuver through all the issues, while May has her kitten heels and boots. Will she be able to stride through it all, and spawn a movement of her own — Mayism? — SAMANTHA CONTI

The Looks of Theresa MayBritain’s new prime minister has been cut-ting a stylish swath through Westminster.

Phot

ogra

phs

by S

teve

Bac

k, D

avid

Fis

her,

Ray

Tang

, Tim

Roo

ke, A

ndre

w C

owie

and

Ste

phen

Cok

e/R

EX/S

hutt

erst

ock

May and David Cameron in 2015.

May in Roland Mouret at the Conservative Party Conference in Manchester in 2015.

Theresa May sported her Anya Hindmarch

bag while leaving Downing Street on

Budget day in 2013.

May at the Royal Academy of Arts

Summer Exhibition in London in 2013.

May at the Royal Academy of Arts

Summer Exhibition preview in 2015.

May in Vivienne Westwood with Russell & Bromley shoes.

May wore a pair of knee-high black boots while greeting Queen Elizabeth II at the Horse Guards Parade in 2015.

Fashion +

GLOBAL

Tokyo Fashion Week Starts in Challenging EconomyGrowth in tourist spending is softening, but affluent...

They’re not freshmen—or even sophomores—and already they’ve made names for themselves on...

Only 750 places of the two eatch models will be produced...

Milan’s Next Wave: Mens Designers to Watch

Berluti, Hublot Partner on Limited-Edition Timepieces

FASHION BUSINESS

Business + Beauty + Mens + Runway + Accessories +

SUBSCRIBE

You’ll Never Look At Fashion The Same

FOR MORE INFORMATION ON ADVERTISING OPPORTUNITIES, PLEASE CONTACT PAMELA FIRESTONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER AT 212 256 8103 OR PFIRESTONE@WWD.COM

THE P OWER OF CONTENT

The new .com Coming This September

The Old and The NewMoncler reenlisted the photographic services of Annie Leibovitz for its fall campaign, while working with two new faces for the brand: Karen Elson and James Jagger, the 30-year-old son of Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall who recently appeared in HBO’s “Vinyl.”

Titled “A Surrealist Fantasy,” the images draw on Nordic fairy tales and nature, including a most on-brand element, snow. One shot depicts Elson in a puffer gown perched on a rock in a river and holding a tree branch. On an even more surreal note, an image features Jagger seated in a room with a snow-dusted floor, draped in a red puffer cape with his face obscured by what looks like a caged set with a snowy tree.

The ads were photographed in upstate New York, and this is the fourth time Moncler has used Leibovitz to shoot the company’s campaign. The ads will break in September fashion titles worldwide as well as online. — JESSICA IREDALE

Pia’s MomentPia Mia will make her official debut as fashion director and campaign face of Madonna’s Material Girl line today, as MG Icon, the joint venture between Iconix Brand Group, Inc., Guy Oseary and Madonna unveils the brand’s first ads for fall 2016. WWD first reported that Guam native Pia Mia Perez, the YouTube star and recording artist, had been tapped for the new post in April.

Also making its debut is the first episode of the original StyleHaul docu-series on Perez, which follows her journey in Hollywood and New York, both personally and profes-sionally. The images were shot by Solmaz Saberi and

styled by Perez and shot at the kitschy Madonna Inn, in San Luis Obispo, Calif. The collection will be available this week exclusively at Macy’s and macys.com, in time for back-to-school shopping.

The petite fashionista infused her personal style into the images by pairing the newest Material Girl silhouettes with her signature fishnet tights and bandanna, accessorized with a sparkly custom tooth grill.

“Working with Material Girl has been an opportunity to be involved in all aspects of the line, helping to formulate a direction and a vibe, to have my voice heard and my vision seen. For the fall campaign, I styled and accessorized the collection, chose the photographer and decided which rooms at the Madonna Inn to utilize for which outfits. It’s important to me for everything I do to be true to who I am, and I feel like this campaign is definitely that,” said Perez.

Fans can also glimpse the outfits live in the first episode of the StyleHaul digital series, which also premieres on Wednesday. Each episode will be shoppable and include a link to “Pia’s Picks,” a collection of her favorite Material Girl items available on macys.com. Material Girl, Pia Mia and StyleHaul combined have a social media reach of more than 500 million followers. — MARCY MEDINA

13 JULY 2016 17

Demoulin ExitsChris DeMoulin, managing director of the Fashion Group for UBM Americas, has exited the company, according to sources. Last month, Tommy Fazio resigned as president of retail fashion for UBM Americas.

A spokeswoman for UBM Americas did not respond to requests for comment on the reason for DeMoulin’s departure, or if a successor has been named.

DeMoulin also did not respond to a call for com-ment on Tuesday.

This was DeMoulin’s second go-round with the company’s fashion division. He served as president of MAGIC International from 2008 to 2012 and had been president of licensing and executive vice president of customer development for UBM Advanstar’s power sports and automotive division before being named to his most recent position in November 2015.

UBM Americas is part of UBM plc, the largest trade show organizer in the U.S. and owner of MAG-IC, Project, Coterie, WWDMAGIC, FN Platform, MRket and other shows. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

No Longer in DallasIntermix has shuttered its 10-year-old store at NorthPark Center.

“We’re constantly evaluating our real estate portfolio to ensure we have the right stores in the right places to best serve our customers,” said Liz Nunan, spokeswoman for Gap Inc., which owns the specialty chain. “The decision to close a store is always a difficult one. A number of factors can impact the decision.”

It’s the only store that the chain has folded in this fiscal year, she added.

Catharine Flagg, spokeswoman for NorthPark, said the closure was planned, and Ugg Australia will open in the 2,495-square-foot spot later this year.

Intermix seemed to struggle at NorthPark from the start. Within its first few years of opening in September 2006, the store was downsized roughly in half.

The stylish retailer was part of NorthPark’s push for luxury tenants that began with the mall’s expan-sion in 2006 and continues today. Other high-end stores that didn’t make it at NorthPark include Bar-

neys New York, Giorgio Armani, Oscar de la Renta, DeBeers, Porsche Design and Villebrequin.

Longtime tenant Ralph Lauren shut down in April, six months after moving to a smaller location in the mall, according to a report in the Dallas Morning News. It was among four units the company closed. — HOLLY HABER

Staying Mum“He’s here tonight, hidden in plain sight,” Bryan Cranston disclosed on Monday night. “I can’t point him out to you or anyone else, because he put a lot of people in prison and they would like nothing more than to get back at him.”

Espionage, drug rings and even members of the Witness Protection Program were the talk at the New York premiere of “The Infiltrator,” the true story of federal agent Bob Mazur who goes undercover to infiltrate Pablo Escobar’s drug trafficking operation. Mazur himself was apparently on site, an apparition-al presence to reporters and moviegoers — James Franco, Mickey Rourke and, curiously, Pauly Shore among them.

“He’s pretending to be a bad guy during the day and, what got me, is he has to leave that behind every day when he comes home and becomes Bob Mazur the dad, the husband,” Cranston, who spent ample time with Mazur to research the role, contin-ued. “I was curious about a man who likes that duality and how he makes it all real and authentic.”

Cranston credited the script with encapsulating Mazur’s moral complexity. “[The scenes] are like a soufflé,” Cranston explained with a smile. “And you make the soufflé and do what’s written. And then you bake it for the right amount, you rehearse the scene, you get it right, and it rises to a certain point. And sometimes it really rises. Those come as surprises.”

Cranston’s costar Diane Kruger, beaming in a crimson Jason Wu gown, has an equally meaty role. “She was a total trailblazer,” Kruger told WWD. Kruger plays Kathy Ertz in the film, Mazur’s fiancée and rookie agent also undercover. “Women those days never went undercover so she had to fight to be taken seriously.”

After viewing the film, in theaters Wednesday, the cast cabbed it downtown (apparently Kruger changed in the car, as she arrived to the club in a black sheer number) to Lavo to dance in a corner booth. — ALEXIS NOELLE BARNETT

Fashion Scoops

● ‘Remade in the USA’ was designed by CFDA Social Innovator winners: Teslin Doud, Carmen Gama and Lucy Jones.

BY LISA LOCKWOOD

Eileen Fisher will unveil its first pop-up retail store in Brooklyn at the Glass House at 47 Bergen Street.

The shop will feature the exclusive launch of “Remade in the USA,” the limited-edition 500-piece collection created by the CFDA Social Innovator Award winners. The shop will be open July 23 and 24 and July 30 and 31, from noon to 7 p.m. There will be a kickoff event, open to the public, on July 22.

In partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Fisher created the inau-gural Social Innovators Award, offering fash-ion design students the opportunity to work alongside the brand’s designers, merchan-disers and social consciousness teams. The

winners Teslin Doud, Carmen Gama and Lucy Jones — all graduates of The New School’s Parsons School of Design — participated in a 12-month residency project to prototype com-mercially viable ways to make new designs from the damaged clothes received from the Green Eileen recycling program. The program is a zero-waste project.

“For this project our goal was to find techniques that minimize waste and preserve the inherent value of Eileen Fisher materials,” Gama said. “They’re so beautiful, they can easily have a second and maybe third life.”

The “Remade in the USA” collection is the first scalable zero-waste collection offering one-of-a kind pieces created from felting techniques and natural dyeing redesigned in well-known Fisher patterns. The shop will include the “Remade in the USA” collection, as well as select products from Green Eileen and Eileen Fisher.

In the “Remade in the USA” collection, for example, the designers realized that three pairs of wide-leg pants can be transformed into one new silk tunic. The trio of designers looked through the recycled garments to find

items with consistent damages. For example, silk with food stains made a perfect candidate for overdyeing. Pants with torn inseams were an ample source for new designs, and sweat-ers with moth holes were fed into a felting machine to create new fabric.

The shop will feature garments that look brand new, even though they were created from recycled materials. There are also

unusual pieces that mix textures and colors and are more obviously upcycled from garments. There are also artisanal pieces that resemble art.

Instead of cutting up the silk stained tops, for example, they dyed over them. They took the colorful ones and “bundle” dyed them by sprinkling dye extracts and eucalyptus leaves on the shirt, then rolling it up and binding it in a little bundle and steaming them for an hour. Those pieces start at $58. They also took damaged sweaters and needle felted them together. They created a new fabric, the pattern determined by the placement of the colors, which were then cut and sewn into a new garment. For coats, they used 15 to 20 sweaters. The coats are two layers of sweaters, and a kimono cardigan and pullover sweater (made with cashmere) are created with one layer of sweaters. These pieces start at $500.

The designers chose The Glass House which is a very small venue with an organic feeling. The pop-up shop will also be an educational and spiritual place with mending workshops and yoga classes.

The Social Innovators Award was a yearlong residency providing the three winners with work experience in all aspects of the business, from concept and design to sourcing and sustainability, guided by Fisher’s design and merchandising teams. Each also received a prize of $50,000. It hasn’t been determined whether the residency will be repeated.

RETAIL

Eileen Fisher Collection Gets Pop-up Shop

Memo Pad

From left: Teslin Doud, Eileen

Fisher and Lucy Jones.

Bryan Cranston and Diane Kruger

Pia Mia in a Material Girl ad for Macy’s.

Cra

nsto

n/Kr

uger

pho

togr

aph

by K

ristin

a B

umph

rey/

Sta

rPix

/REX

/Shu

tter

stoc

k

Karen Elson in Moncler’s fall 2016 campaign.