danube biosphere reserve - neespineespi.org/web-content/danube_reserve_info.pdf · the kilia delta...
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Vilkovo
Because of the very activedelta-forming processes, the
Kilia delta supports a flora andfauna of worldwide importance. Forexample, the delta is home to over 950plant species and nearly 260 birdspecies, many of which are listed in RedData books.
Any visitor to the delta in spring orsummer will quickly appreciate the naturalwealth of the Danube Biosphere Reserve:vast reedbeds stretching to the horizon,lily-coated lakes, and islands of willows and poplars.
There are flocks of pelicans, cormorants,ducks, geese and spoonbills while an occasionalsea-eagle soars overhead. In the water thereis a myriad of aquatic plants, with millions offrogs and toads jumping and splashing. Andthe angler can have a rewarding day tryinghis luck to catch a giant carp or catfish.
Danube Biosphere Reserve
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In 1967, a 1 km-wide coastal strip of the Kilia delta was declared areserve.
Between 1973 and 1978, the reserve area was increased to 14,851 ha as partof the Black Sea State Reserve.
In 1981, the protected area of the delta became a reserve in its own right,known as "Dunaiski Plavni".
By a Decree of the President of Ukraine in 1998, Dunaiski Plavni became abiosphere reserve and in February 1999 UNESCOincluded the Danube Biosphere Reserve in the globalnetwork of biosphere reserves; it also formed acomponent part of the Danube Delta Cross BorderBiosphere Reserve Romania-Ukraine.
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RENI
BOLGRAD
IZMAILKagul Yalpug
KartalKugurlui
Katlabugh
Ramsar Sites
VinogradovkaReserve
TopolinoyeReserve
Lung LakeReserve
Isles of IzmailLandscape Park
Suslikcolony
Nature reserves in the Lower
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KILIA
VILKOVO
Kitai
Isles of IzmailLandscape Park
AliyagaReserve
Danube BiosphereReserve
er Danube region worth visiting!
Kilia branch
Lenina str.
Lerm
onto
va st
r.
Gork
y Ca
nal
Oktyab
rskaya
str.
iiiii
Belgorod
sky kanal
Belgorodsky island
V i l k o v o
Tourist Information and Souvenir Shop
Market
Dionys Restaurant
Town council
Salix
roadspaths
Other roads
CanalsMain churches
Danube Biosphere ReserveInformation Centre
Suggested walking route:
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Kalimbeyka
Towncentre
Salix
28 June str.Old town
The Kilia delta of theRiver Danube
The delta of the River Danube begins some way upstream of Izmail,where it bifurcates in to the Tulcea and Kilia branches. The Tulcea
branch then divides again to form the Sulina (central) and St George(southern) branches.
The northern Kilia branch marks the boundary between Romania andUkraine. It carries just over half of the water flowing into the delta. Thesediments deposited by the river rapidly build up new islands and sand bars,which cause the Kilia branch to split in to many smaller channels downstreamof Vilkovo. In fact, so active is the formation of new land that the Kilia partof the delta is one of the fastest growing deltas in the world - it changesits shape not only year by year but sometimes from season to season!
Kilia bra
nch
Kilia
del
taVilkovo
Izmail
ReniKilia
Sulina branch
St. George branch
Danube
Blac
k Sea
Tulcea
ROMANIA
UKRAINE
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The town of Vilkovo was founded in 1775. It is situated on left bank ofthe River Danube, at the point where the Kilia branch of the Danube
began to build a new coastal delta about 300 years ago. The first settlersactually lived on the seashore.
Today, the Belgorodsky channel (called Goosevo by the locals), which is aside-arm of the Kilia branch, divides the town in two parts: the mainland andBelgorodsky Island.
Vilkovo Town
Vilkovo is the youngesttown on the Danube inUkraine, but it is also themost famous. The mainfeature of the town is thenetwork of waterways,known as "yeriks". Thesewere formed when theinhabitants built up smallislands from the sediments,and on which they built theirhouses.
Vilkovo
Blac
k Sea
Blac
k SeaVilkovo
1775
1975There were no roads in the past, but thenarrow waterways allowed people to move around byboat. The original system of waterways still exists inthe old town and provides delightful strolls among thecottages and gardens. However, many of the waterways need some work torestore them to their former beauty and glory.
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The estuary of the River Danube into theBlack Sea is a place of great strategic
value. It is small wonder that, since itsfoundation, Vilkovo has been a prizedpossession.
During its first 66 years, the townwas under Turkish rule, then forthe next 44 years it wasadministered by Russia, andthen during the following 22years the town was actuallydivided between Turkeyand Romania.
Vilkovo
1991 - Ukraine
1944 - USSR
1941 - Romania
1856 - Turkey-Romania
1812 - Russia1746 - Turkey
1939 - USSR1918 - Romania1878 - RussiaV
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A See-Saw History
After that,Vilkovo was
retaken by Russiafor another 40 years,
then switched toRomania for the next 21
years, and then fell withinthe former USSR for 2 years.
Romania regained Vilkovo for afurther 3 years before it returnedto the former USSR again for 47years. Finally, since 1991, Vilkovohas been a town of independentUkraine.
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Vilkovo is a town built on marshland and very different from the typicaltowns of the region. People have established their homes and gardens on
islands dug out of the silty marshes. Every year, the island dwellers have torepair and restore their islands to prevent them from sinking back into themarsh. The soil is dug out of a trench around the island: this practice servesto keep the trench clear for boat traffic and also provides a defenceagainst flooding.
An Island Home
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The old heart of Vilkovo has a system of waterways (called "yeriks")instead of the streets. Yeriks played a very important role in Vilkovo in
the past. They served as roads and water-pipes, and the endless depositionof river silt in them provided building-materials, soil and fertilizer.
The yeriks also bore the boats that were the only mode of transport,connecting townspeople with the mainland. They carriedtheir produce to the market and brought backall the necessities of life in their boats.
The Waterways - “Yeriks”
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Êëàäêè
Besides many of the waterways, boardwalks havebeen constructed on piles, above the level of the
spring flood. These allowed people to walk around thetown and visit each other.
Each house has a small, stepped jetty where they canmoor their boats, and reach the water to wash dishesand do laundry (though piped water is of course nowavailable). Along the channels above the water, thespring high water floods the islands and the woodenside-walk was built on piles-laying.
Boardwalks, Jetties . . .
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The traditional Vilkovoboat is an exact copy of
a Cossack type known as a"seagull". The seagulls wereused by the Cossacks fromZaporozhiya as fightingcraft: to avoid wastingtime on turning, the boatswere built with two bows.
These days, theinhabitants of Vilkovo callsuch craft "herring boats"since they are used by thelocal fishermen who catchthe famous Danube herringin the river.
Seagull Boats
The boats can also be used forfishing some way out to sea - wheresturgeon can be found.
There is no shortage of boats inVilkovo: there are at least 5,000 ofthem presently afloat – or morethan 2 boats per family!
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In 1654, Patriarch Nikon carried out some reforms of religious practicesin the Russian orthodox church. However, some of the congregation
found them unacceptable so they were branded as heretics and persecuted(many were put to death by fire). The dissidents were known as "oldbelievers" or "Lipovans" - a term derived from "filipovan" or followers of
Philip Vasiliev, who led the schism.
The Lipovans fled from their home villages anddispersed widely; however, quite a few came andsettled in new villages throughout the Danube delta. Abronze statute depicting an early Lipovanian settlerstands at the Vilkovo boat station.
Lipovans in Vilkovo speak an archaic form of Russian,preserved for 300 years. The men have beards andwear their shirts over their trousers, tied up with thebelt. They have maintained their old religiouspractices, such crossing themselves with two (insteadof three) fingers, they bow to the floor whenpraying, and parade around the church forchristenings and other holy events. In public worship,Lipovans sit on special cushions and use a rosary.
The Lipovans
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There are two churches and one chapel inVilkovo: all of them named after St
Nicholas. One of the churches is Lipovanian,and the other follows contemporaryorthodox practice.
This focus on St Nicholas may seemsurprising until you realise that StNicholas is the patron saint offishermen, sailors and travellers.
In the past, when the boats had nomotors, it was even more dangerous thannow to go fishing (especially far out tosea). So, no boat set out until it and itscrew had been blessed.
Nicholas the Miracle-Maker
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