darla sivaram - research proposal

1 | P a g e Darla Sivarama Prasad London College of Fashion / Womenswear

DARLA SIVARAM PRASAD

{ DAR09282249 }

London College of Fashion

BA (HONS) FDT WOMENSWEAR

RESEARCH PROPOSAL


CONTENTS

ABSTRACT 3

INTRODUCTION 4

RATIONALE 8

FABRICS 9

COLORS 10

CONSUMER PROFILE 11

COMPETITORS 12

DESIGNER AND COMMERCIAL BRANDS REFERENCING 13

RESEARCH METHODOLOGIES 15

ART REVIEW 16

FILM REVIEW 17

LITERATURE REVIEW 18

CRITICAL PATH 19

APPENDIX 21

BIBLIOGRAPY 23


ABSTRACT

“What will the superwoman be, of whom we sing -

She who is coming over the dim border

Of Far To-morrow, after earth’s disorder

Is tidied up by Time? What will she bring

To make life better on tempestuous earth?

How will her worth

Be greater than her forbears? What new power

Within her being will burst into flower?”

- Ella Wheeler Wilcox


INTRODUCTION

A mix of two forces War and the Flora.

The subject is chosen to show the power of women in the new age and bring out an image of

their supremacy and compassion. I have always been intrigued to combine two strong

elements, one being war and another Flora. Phrases such as violence, conflict,

aggression, disturbance, destruction, political, strength are associated with war.

The Iraq war is one of the latest conflicts. The war began on March 20, 2003 and is still going

on. This was the political involvement of an international power led by troops from the United

States under the administration of President George W. Bush and the United Kingdom under

the Prime Minister Tony Blair. The war had a huge toll on many innocent human lives and has

resulted in massive destruction. There were many reasons for war to begin but the final picture

results in devastation and fatality. The idea of war sounds adventurous in the video game world

but the actual fact is that in reality it has

always been a negative impact in human lives

and people who have been under its wrath.

Few films like Black Hawk Down (2001), Hurt Locker (2008) truly show the scenario of

being in a warzone and risking one’s life in it.

The element of new warfare methods and new age uniforms are going to be a major

source of inspiration in my collection.

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The second concept is Flora, which is always considered as clean, natural, romantic, and peaceful.

The concept of flowers is quite heritage in many ways of arts and fashion but in my collection the

idea of bringing a positive sense by combining a negative factor like war can be achieved by using

flora inspiration.

I have taken Claude Monet’s flower paintings as my inspiration. He was a founder of French

impressionist painting, and the most consistent and prolific practitioner of the movement's

philosophy of expressing one's perceptions before nature. Monet has beautifully expressed his art by

various beautiful floral paintings. Flowers have always been used in womenswear collections. The

idea of utilizing floral prints or floral embellishments would add a sensitive feel to the collection. The

theme here is to unify these two elements and show it in form of a womenswear line, where the

final outcome would be a strong yet compassionate

woman. To support these elements there would be

the concept of a Feminist woman who is proving a

point that she is strong in battle even with a flower

dress. The duty of women has only been restricted as

Amy de la Haye mentions in the book Cinderella’s of Soil: Land girls, where women

worked in farms and took position after their husbands were sent to war. They were

banned in being in the front line. Such discrimination was prevalent during the World

War – I. The aim is to create an image which portrays that women are also fighters and

showing it in the form of a Dress or a novel ensemble.

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RATIONALE

War has always been associated towards the masculine side globally but to show the power of women with floral inspiration in form of

ensembles is my visualization.

The new-age military style is a huge influence for my collection. Various details can be picked up from their uniforms such as epaulettes,

accessories, trims etc. Silhouettes would be a mix and match of voluminous and constriction. The garments would have the elements of

layering, wear and tear, fastening and minimal drapes.

I will be looking to draft creative patterns with a sense of commerciality in the collection. Innovative use of fabrics playing with different

weights would add to a new dimension in the collection. The garments would be contemporary styled and surface embellishments such

as Embroidery would also be added. I am looking forward to play with various types of fabric dyeing and industrial washes. For

example washing with raw edges would give a wear and tear effect. Even stone washing the fabric can give a rough feel.

Detailing and silhouette play would be a highlight in my collection.


FABRICS

For a Spring – Summer 2012 collection I have been thinking to play with a mix and match of fabrics varying from heavy weights to fluid

weights would be incorporated. The idea of volume and constraint would be quite challenging. Wovens such as cotton, poplins, voile,

jerseys, suede, canvas and chiffon would be incorporated and experimented with.


COLORS

Colors would be a mix palette earthy and war colors such as dirt browns, mud, and ash inspired from the Iraq war and a striking bright

floral color accents taken from photographs of flora to show feminism as this project focuses on a combining contrast elements.

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CONSUMER PROFILE

The consumer is the woman with demography ranging from 20 yrs – 45 yrs. My ideal client would be the one who is sensitive and yet

she is daring enough to join a battle. She is a new age woman who is fearless and doesn’t worry how her future looks ahead. She believes

in today and fights for her rights. She prefers to be quiet and show her work in actions. She likes the aroma of flowers and incense and

loves combat. She loves to experiment with her styles and is bold. I have chosen Uma Thurman as my ideal client as her attributes would

easily suit my collection. “Call her the Bride, Black Mamba, Arlene Machiavelli, Beatrix Kiddo, or Mommy,” quotes Rikke Schubart in the

book Super Bitches and Action Babes about Uma Thurman in Kill Bill Vol -1 & 2.

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COMPETITORS

Military and War have been mostly explored topics in fashion. Many designer labels such as Burberry Prosum, Banana republic,

Alexander Wang, Jil Sander and Chloé have created highly contemporary commercial collections inspired from military and war based

themes.

My collection is a new entry design label which will stand in a high end ready-to-wear store. The ensembles can be sold globally in

countries such as England, India, South Africa and Dubai to clients who relate themselves with the brand and its aesthetics. The pricing

would range from 200£ - 1500£. The design and style would be a highlight and make the consumer feel special.

Competitors would range from Asos, Liberty, Topshop and Harrods.

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DESIGNER AND COMMERCIAL BRANDS REFERENCING

Designer References and Magazines have been researched to track contemporary and commercial fashion.

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RESEARCH METHODOLOGIES

I would like find answers to few initial doubts like:

If a dress is taken to war and asked to fight. How would it be?

A coloured ensemble which is surrounded by a dread dessert. How would the treatment be?

I have recently visited the Imperial museum of war in Manchester. The museum showcases various weapons, uniforms/costumes and

other military equipment, wartime propaganda and exhibits on civilian life during World War one and World War two. The raise of

women power has been an inspiring factor for my project.

Flowers bring out the softness and balances with the roughness in the war. For example the colours of flowers or the textures can be

played with. I would be sourcing fabrics which relate to my theme of war and flora. I am looking to play with these fabrics and treat

them in various ways. Embellishments and embroidery would also add a good dimension to my collection. Hence I would be working on

the samples. I would visit Delhi to source good spring cotton like fabrics. As India has a rich source of cotton fabrics. There would also

be leather trimmings added as details in the collection. I have already visited the Imperial war museum in Manchester which was very

helpful in my research. Numerous pictures have been taken to add to my research. I am going to work on many fabric samples and treat

it with washing effects such as pigment dye, batik dye etc… which should show a rugged or distressed feel in the fabric. Ripping the

seams and trying to making new seams to add highlights in the samples. Illustrations and sketches would be made keeping commercial

value in mind.


ART REVIEW

Paintings by Claude Monet are one of the inspiring factors for my collection. His floral paintings have lots a depth in terms of colors and

textures.

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FILM REVIEW

Movies like Kill bill have portrayed a fighter woman image. Other films like Black Hawk Down, Hurt Locker and Inglourious Basterds are

great motivating movies for my collection. The theme of war and combat is in both these films. An amalgamation of these films would

show the true character of the new age fighter woman.

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LITERATURE REVIEW

Land Girls: Cinderellas of Soil by Amy de la Haye and Lee Millers War are few books which show the involvement of women in war and

how women have adapted the roles of men due to the world war.

Super bitches and action babes by Rikke Schubart also demonstrates the female hero in popular films.

Flowers by Beane and Monet: The gardener have given tremendous floral inspiration

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CRITICAL PATH

Week 11 - 4 October 2010 Source books from library and make notes.

Week 12 - 12 October 2010 Image research and start with proposal.

Week 13 – 18 October 2010 Research Proposal, Colors and initial design.

Week 14 – 25 October 2010 Fabric Sourcing and Research Proposal.

Week 15 - 1 November 2010 Trend, forecast study and Proposal Submission.

Week 16 - 8 November 2010 Design Development and Initial Samplers.

Week 17 - 15 November 2010 Toile development and work on design.

Week 18 - 22 November 2010 Toiles, Portfolio and Fabric.

Week 19 - 29 November 2010 Toiles and Design enhancement.

Week 20 - 6 December 2010 75% of Toiles to be completed.

Week 21 - 13 December 2010 Review completed toiles and note changes.

Week 22 - 20 December 2010 Work on Production and Manufacturing ideas.

Week 23 – 27 December 2010 Surface development techniques.

Week 24 – 3 January 2011 Portfolio development.

Week 25 – 10 January 2011 Discuss ideas and remaining designs.

Week 26 – 17 January 2011 Finalize fabrics ideas and trims ideas.

Week 27 – 24 January 20101 Leave for Manufacturing Outfits & work on toiles.

Week 28 - 31 January 2011 Complete Outfit 1.


Week 29 - 7 February 2011 Complete Outfit 2.

Week 30 - 14 February 2011 Complete Outfit 3 & source for accessories.

Week 31 – 21 February 2011 Complete Outfit 4 & work on Spec sheets.

Week 32 - 28 February 2011 Complete Outfit 5.

Week 33 - 7 March 2011 Return and Complete Outfit 6 and Spec Sheets.

Week 34 - 22 March 2011 Hand in Portfolio and Collection.


APPENDIX

1 Iraq War

http://messengerandadvocate.files.wordpress.com/2007/03/ir

aq-war.jpg

2 Gears of War video game

http://www.flickr.com/photos/eldave/3322780298/

3 Vogue Italia September 2007 : Agyness Deyn by Steven Meisel

http://forums.thefashionspot.com/f78/vogue-italia-september-

2007-agyness-deyn-steven-meisel-59727.html

4 Army Specialist Jennie Baez, Photographed by Lance Cpl

Clifton D Sams

http://kennysideshow.blogspot.com/2010/02/equal-

opportunity.html

5 Kill Bill Graphic

6 Iraqi woman, Kurdistan: Photo by James Gordon

http://www.allamericanpatriots.com/news_topics/iraq?page=4

7 Flower Image from Flower / Christopher Beane ; text by

Anthony F. Janson.

8 Monet Painting from Monet : the gardener / Robert Gordon,

Sydney Eddison.

9 Flower Image from Flower / Christopher Beane ; text by

Anthony F. Janson.

10 Screenshot of Gucci flora perfume advertisement 2009

11 Weber Tulip 1995 from Flower / Christopher Beane ; text by

Anthony F. Janson.

12 Flower War from

http://tracostortos.blogspot.com/2008/08/flower-war.html

13 Uma Thurman in UK Harper's Bazaar, July 2009

14 Another Magazine Spring/Summer 2008: Uma Thurman by

Craig McDean

15 November 2003 Uma Thurman Vogue

16 Asos logo.

17 Liberty logo.


18 Topshop logo.

19 Harrods logo.

20 Military Vogue 2010 USA



23 Iris Van Herpen’s SS10 Radiation.

24 Global Warrior Woman Fashion Story Designer Jin Joo Ma

25 Silk Dupion from www.google.com

26 The Garden in Flower, 1900 by Monet Claude.


Sydney Eddison.


Sydney Eddison.

29 Hurt Locker directed by Kathryn Bigelow 2009

30 Inglorious Basterds directed by Quentin Tarantino 2009.

31 Kill Bill directed by Quentin Tarantino, vol 1 - 2003 and vol 2

– 2004.

32 Monet : the gardener / Robert Gordon, Sydney Eddison -

2002

33 Flower / Christopher Beane ; text by Anthony F. Janson -

2008

34 Super bitches and action babes : the female hero in popular

cinema, 1970-2006 / Rikke Schubart.

35 Lee Miller's war : photographer and correspondent with the

Allies in Europe 1944-45 / foreword by David E. Scherman ;

edited by Antony Penrose.

36 Land girls: Cinderellas of the soil / Amy de la Haye. 2009.


BIBLIOGRAPHY

BOOKS

Beane, C., & Janson, A. F. (2008). Flower. New York: Artisan.

De La Haye, A. (2009). Land girls : Cinderellas of the soil.

Brighton: Royal Pavilion & Museums.

Gordon, R., & Eddison, S. (2002). Monet the gardener. New York:

Universe.

Miller, L., & Penrose, A. (2005). Lee Miller's war: photographer

and correspondent with the Allies in Europe, 1944-45. London:

Thames & Hudson.

Schubart, R. (2007). Super bitches and action babes. London: Mc

Farland & Company, Inc.

MOTION PICTURE

Bigelow, K. (Director). (2008). The Hurt Locker [Motion Picture].

Scott, R. (Director). (2001). Black Hawk Down [Motion Picture].

Tarantino, Q. (Director). (2009). Inglourious Basterds [Motion

Picture].

Tarantino, Q. (Director). (2003). Kill Bill: Vol. 1 [Motion Picture].

Tarantino, Q. (Director). (2004). Kill Bill: Vol. 2 [Motion Picture].

WORLD WIDE WEB DOCUMENTS

Wilcox, E. W. (n.d.). Retrieved October 2010, from www.great-

inspirational-quotes.com: http://www.great-inspirational-

quotes.com/the-superwoman.html

Meisel, A. D. (2007). Vogue Italia .

Military. (2010). Vogue USA .

Spring/Summer 2008: Uma Thurman by Craig McDean. (2008).

Another Magazine .

darla sivaram - research proposal

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