de cusut - instruction bookinstruction ......16 2 1 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 9 11 12 13 14 15 1. thread guides...

INSTRUCTION BOOKINSTRUCTION BOOKINSTRUCTION BOOK

Thank you for your purchase of this Overlock Sewing Machine. This machine, that is intendedfor household use will provide you with excellent performance in sewing from light to heavymaterial (lawn to denim).

Please refer to this Instruction Book for proper use and optimum service. To get the most outof your sewing machine, read the entire Instruction Book before attempting to operate themachine. Then familiarize yourself with the machine by following the Instruction Book pageby page.

To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern sewing capabilities, themanufacturer reserves the right to change the appearance, design or accessories of thissewing machine when considered necessary without notification or obligation.

1

PREFACE

When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed including the following.Read all instructions before using the machine.

* The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug the machine from theelectric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

* Always unplug before re-lamping. Replace bulb with the same type rated 15 watts. Be sure to replace theface plate which covers the light bulb before operating the machine.

* Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage ofthe motor.

* Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this Instruction Book. Use only attachmentsrecommended by the manufacturer as contained in the Instruction Book.

* To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("0") position, then remove plug from outlet.

* Disconnect the power line plug from the socket outlet or switch the machine off when making any adjustmentsin the needle area, such as threading needle and loopers, changing needle, changing throat plate or changingpresser foot, etc.

* Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when makingany other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the Instruction Book.

* Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt. Contact your nearest Service Center should any adjustment berequired.

* Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything on topof the controller.

* Always use the proper throat plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

* Do not use bent needles.

* When sewing, keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machineneedle.

* Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

* For double insulated machines, when servicing, use only identical replacement parts. See instructions forServicing of Double-Insulated Appliances.

* Never operate the machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has beendropped or damaged, or dropped into the water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer orService Center for examination, repair, electrical, or mechanical adjustment.

* Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine andfoot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

* Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

2

DANGER -To reduce the risk of electric shock:

WARNING -To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

* Do not use outdoors.

* Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

* Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near

children.

* Do not expose the machine or machine plastic case to sunlight directly. Also, do not keep it in a very warm

or damp place.

* Do not touch the machine, foot controller and power line cord with wet hand, wet cloth or with anything wet.

* Do not connect power line cord to one of the many cords connected to one power outlet with adapters.

* Use machine on flat and stable table.

* Be sure to close the looper cover before operating the machine.

* Keep presser foot and needles away from children's reach.

* Be sure the light bulb has cooled off before changing with a new one.

* Do not dismantle or modify the machine yourself.

* Be sure to turn off the power switch and disconnect the power line plug before caring for your machine as

instructed in the Instruction Book.

* SERVICING OF DOUBLE-INSULATED PRODUCTS. In a double-insulated product, two systems ofinsulation is provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product,nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing of a double-insulated product requires,extreme care and knowledge of the system, and should be done only by qualified service personnel,Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double-Insulated product is marked with the word "DOUBLE-INSULATION" or "DOUBLE-INSULATED".

3

1. .........................................................Principal Parts.2. ...........................................Accessories...................3. ..................................................Needle Information.4. .....................................How to Open Looper Cover5. ......................Principal Parts Behind Looper Cover.6. .....................................Preparation prior to sewing.7. ...........Removal and Replacement of Clean Pocket8. Preparation prior to sewing......................................

1 . How to Remove and Insert Needles........................2*Needle position.........................................................*To remove needle(s).................................................*To insert needle(s)....................................................

1 . Threading the Machine...........................................3*Threading diagram...................................................*Understanding the color code..................................*To thread the machine correctly................................

1) Threading the upper looper (Green)...................2) Threading the lower looper (Red).......................

4) Threading the overedge left needle (Orange).....

21. .........................Handy Reference Chart..............22. Suggested Tension Setting..................................

4

Page Page

303131

5778889

10101010111212121313131414

16171920

*Setting up the thread guide holder............................*Anti-spill net..............................................................*Spool cap..................................................................9. How to Disengage Movable Upper Knife................

1 . To Convert upper Looper to 2-thread converter.....0*To use the ..................................2-thread converter*To disengage to upper looper...................................

11. Standard overedge and Rolled Hem Stitching........*To sew standard overedge........................................*To sew rolled hem.....................................................

141415151516

23. How to Sew a Rolled hem...................................1) 3-thread standard rolled hem stitching..............2) 3-thread upper looper thread wrapped

rolled hem stitching...........................................3) 2-thread standard rolled hem stitching..............4) 2-thread lower looper thread wrapped

rolled hem stitching...........................................24. Stitch Variations and Sewing Techniques...........

*Decorative Flatlocking...........................................*How to sew an overlock blind hem........................*How to sew a pin tucks.........................................*Turning square corners.........................................*Pin placement.......................................................*Securing the thread chain.....................................

25. Machine Maintenance.........................................*Cleaning the machine...........................................*Oiling the machine................................................*How to replace the stationary knife.......................*How to exchange light bulb...................................

26.Optional Accessories............................................*Snap-on type presser foot.....................................*Optional presser feet.............................................1) Elastic foot........................................................2) Blind hem foot..................................................3) Shirring foot......................................................4) Pearl/Sequin foot..............................................5) Piping/Cording foot...........................................6) Taping foot.......................................................

27. Troubleshooting Chart.........................................28. Relationship between Cloth, Thread and Need...29. Specification........................................................

3738

3839

39414243434445454646464748494950505050505050515253

1) 2-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock....................2) 2-Thread Overedge...........................................3) 3-Thread Overlock............................................4) 3-Thread Flatlock...............................................5) 3-Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch........6) 4-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safely Stitch.........

3233343536

1 . How to Change Threads / Tie on Method...............41 . How to Adjust the Stitch length...............................51 . How to Adjust the Seam width................................6

*Width adjustment by changing needle position........*Width adjustment with adjustment knob...................

1 . How to Adjust the Presser Foot Pressure...............71 . Differential Feed......................................................8

*Gathered overedge...................................................

2223232323242525262728

*Stretch overedge......................................................19 .... Chaining Off and Test Sewing.............................

. Selection stitches....................................................20

) Threading the overedge right needle (Blue)........3

TABLE OF CONTENTS

16

2

1

3 45 6

7

8

10

9

11

12

13

14

15

1. Thread guides and holder

2. Handle

3. Left needle thread tension dial (orange)

4. Right needle thread tension dial (blue)

5. Upper looper thread tension dial (green)

6. Lower looper thread tension dial (red)

7. Spool pin

8. Throat plate

9. Cloth plate

10. Looper cover

11. Power & light switch

12. Stitch length dial

13. Hand wheel

14. Spool stand

15. Spool holder

16. Clean pocket

5

1. PRINCIPAL PARTS

17. Presser bar lifter and tension release

18. Differential feed adjusting dial

19. Cutting width dial

20. Foot pressure adjusting dial

20

17

18

19

6

1 2 3 4 5

6 7 8 9

10

11

12

13

Accessories are contained in the accessory case

1. Screw driver (large size)

2. Knife (stationary)

3. Thread Unwinder spool cap

4. Anti-spill net

5. Oiler

6. Allen Screw driver (small)

7. Tweezers

8. Needle set

9. Brush

10. Spool holder

11. Clean pocket

12. Machine cover

This overlock uses a flat shank industrial needle

that eliminates the possibility of inserting the needle

backwards.

Do not attempt to use a standard household sewing

machine needle of any size or type in this overlock.

7

1

1

4

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

HAx1 (130/705H)

Overlock needle

4

1 .3 2-thread converter (option) 1

2. ACCESSORIES

3. NEEDLE INFORMATION

ON

OFF

2

1

2

4

36

1

5

Caution:

Be sure to turn off power switch.

1 Push the cover to the right as far as it will go.

2 Pull cover down toward you.

8

Caution:

Be sure looper cover is closed whensewing.

1. Upper looper

2. Moveable Upper knife

3. Presser foot

4. Fixed position lower knife

5. Lower looper

6. Rolled Hem lever

Use only foot controller provided with this machine.

(Type 4C-316B for U.S.A. & CANADA only)

Be sure to make reference to "Warning" on following

Page.

Connect the controller/electric plug to the machine

receptacle.

Plug power line into electric outlet.

Power Switch: Push " l " mark side to turn "ON"

To run the machine and control the speed, press

the controller.

The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew.

To stop the machine from sewing, remove your foot

from the controller.

WARNING:

Push "O" mark side to turn "OFF"

5. PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND THE

4. HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER

LOOPER COVER

6. PREPARATION PRIOR TO SEWING

1

3

2

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of

electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way. If the plug does

not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician

to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

9

Warning:

Insert the clean pocket under the looper cover.

Be sure the left side of clean pocket is mounted near the

cutter where the scraps drop.

* Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated

voltage of the motor.

* Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything

on top of it when not in use.

* Disconnect the power line plug from the electric outlet when changing needles, presser feet

or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine

by accidentally pressing the controller.

Replacement

To remove, hold the clean pocket as shown and

pull it outward.

Removal

POLARIZED PLUG INFORMATION (FOR U.S.A. & CANADA ONLY)

7. REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF

CLEAN POCKET

Anti-spill net

Spool cap

Thread spool

Press in

10

When using synthetic threads that easily spill off

the cone, slip the anti-spill net furnished with the

machine over the thread from the bottom of the

cone leaving the thread end hanging free at the

top the anti-spill net as shown at right.

Take out the thread guide from the top of

Styrofoam, and insert it as shown on the right

illustration.

This machine is shipped with the thread guide

holder on the top of styrofoam.

Fully extend the thread guide holder.

The two joints on the telescope will click into place

when they are correctly positioned.

Center the thread guides above the spool pins.

Place thread over the cone adapters on the spool

pins.

When using a regular thread spool, fit the spool cap

supplied with the machine onto the thread spool as

shown at right.

Setting Up the Thread Guide Holder

8. PREPARATION FOR THREADING

Anti-spill Net

Spool Cap

2

1

2

1

11

Open looper cover (page 8).

Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as

it will go.

Turn the holder toward counter clockwise until the

knife clicks into a lock position.

Caution:


Open looper cover.

Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as

it will go.

Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into the

working position

Caution:

Always close looper cover before operating

machine.

To place movable knife in working position

To place movable knife in nonworking position

9. HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE

UPPER KNIFE

12

To engage the , insert the sharp part intothe

2-thread convertereye of upper looper.

When not threading the upper looper, the 2-thread convertermust be engaged into the upper looper eye.

When using the upper looper, the mustbe

2-thread converterdisengaged.

Caution:

Be sure to turn off power switch

To disengage the 2-thread converter, raise the handle ofupper looper according to picture .

A raised point located in the trough of 2-thread convertermust be inserted and fixed in the eye of the 2-threadconverter.

1

2

3

1

2

3

3

To Use the 2-thread converter

To Disengage to Upper Looper

10. TO CONVERT UPPER LOOPER TO

2-THREAD CONVERTER

R

N

R

N

13

Set seam width finger knob to N to move seam

width finger to standard overedge sewing position.

Set seam width finger knob to R to retract the seam

width finger and set it for rolled hem.

Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far

as it will go in the direction of setting R.

Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as

far as it will go in the direction of setting N.

To Sew Rolled Hem

To Sew Standard Overedge

11. STANDARD OVEREDGE AND ROLLED

HEM STITCHING

Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needles are

at their highest position.

Place a thick piece of fabric [such as felt] under the

presser foot. Lower the needles halfway into the

fabric.

Loosen, but do not remove the needle set screws with

the small allen screwdriver. Hold the needles with

your fingers and raise the needle bar. The needles

will remain in the fabric.

A. Overedge needleleft

B. Overedge needleright

With this machines, two needles can be inserted

to the needle clamp as shown in the drawing but only

one or two needles are to be used for sewing.

The Instruction Book refers to different needle

positions by illustrating the needle clamp at right.

Note: When both the left and right overedge needles

are inserted, the left needle will be slightly

higher than the right.

Caution:

Be sure to disconnect the machine from the

electric outlet before removing needle(s).

Hold the needle with the flat surface to the back.

Insert the needle into the needle socket as far as it

will go.

When inserting a needle, if you first lower it down

into the hole in the throat plate it will line up with the

needle socket. Then direct it upwards

Note: When inserting needles into the A or B sockets

it is necessary to loosen both A & B Allen Screws.

After inserting the needles equally tighten both

Screws.

14

Overedge left needle

Overedge right needle

Left and rightoveredge needlethread

B

To loosen

To tighten

Flat surface to the rear

B A

Right overedge

needle thread

To Insert Needles (s)

12. HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT

NEEDLES

Needle Position

To Remove Needle (s)

B

A

A B

4 3 1 2

15

A color coded threading diagram is located inside

the looper cover for quick reference.

Thread the machine in the order 1 to 4 as shown

at right.

Note: Threads go through the take-up lever cover

for Overlock as shown.

1. Upper looper thread............................

2. Lower looper thread............................

3. Left needle thread...............................

4. Right needle thread.............................

Green

Red

Orange

BlueLeft needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

13. THREADING THE MACHINE

Threading Diagram: Overlock and Safety Stitches

Tension Color Code: Overlock and Safety Stitch

To Thread The Machine Correctly

1) Threading the (Green)Upper Looper

16

Caution:


Thread the top cover

thread guide by pulling

the thread towards the

left until it slips under

guide. Then pull

thread along the right

side of button as

illustrated.

While holding thread with fingers, pass it between

the tension discs and pull thread down to make

certain it is properly located in between the

tension discs 3.

Thread the upper looper as indicated 1~9.

Pass thread from back to the front through the

thread guide 1.

Raise Presser foot to release tension discs.

2

4

3

3 3

2

2

4

7

6

9

8

2

5

3

1

1

2) Threading the (Red)Lower Looper

17





guide. Then pull thread

along the right side of

button as illustrated.

Thread the lower looper as indicated 1~10.

Thread the looper area of the machine following the

green color coded thread guides (4~9).

Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to

back 9. Note: Make sure thread passes behind lower

looper.

Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory

case to aid in threading the looper.

Pull about 10cm(4 inches) of thread through the

looper and place to the back of the throat plate.


thread guide 1.

Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs

10cm

(4")

2

2

98

9

5

4

8

67

7

9

6

5

8

4

2

3

1

10

1

10cm(4")

18

Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back.

Pull about 10cm (4 inches) of thread.

Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader.

Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull

Threader lever (C) up into place (D).

Turn the hand wheel toward you until the lower

looper extends out 5~10mm from the throat

plate edge.

Thread the looper area of the machine following

the red color coded thread guides 4~10.

Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory

case to aid in threading the looper.

While holding thread with finger, pass it between



tension discs 3.

Place the thread with the point of the tweezers

slightly from left and to the right of threading guide 4.

Place the thread with the point of the tweezers

slightly from front and to the back of threading guide 5.

4

3

2

10

9

9

D

B

A

10

C

4

5

6

7

8

5

3

4

3

8

67

19


thread guide 1.

While holding thread with finger, pass it between



tension discs 3.








Thread the right needle as indicated 1~9.

Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs.

4

3

2

3

2

7

5

6

3

2

1

4

3

2

1

3) Threading the (Blue)Overedge Right Needle(B on needle clamp)

9

8

20

4) Threading the (Orange)Overedge Left Needle(A on needle clamp)

Thread the eye of the right needle 9.

Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will

make needle eye threading easy.

The position of the thread must be behind the thread

guide.

Draw about 10cm(4 inches) of thread through

needle eye towards the rear of machine.

Place the thread to the back, under the presser

foot.


thread guide 1.

Thread the left needle as indicated 1~9.


Continue to thread points 4~8.

Note: Slip thread into the rear slot on the thread

guide 5 and bottom slot of take-up lever cover 6.

Then slip thread into the right slot on the thread

guide 7, and into the right slot on the thread

guide 8.

4

1

7

5

6

7

3

2

1

8

7

6

5 4

(4")

10cm

Before threading eye of needle, slip thread behind

thread guide located on the bottom of the needle

clamp.

9

8

9

9

8

21

While holding thread with fingers, pass it between



tension discs 3.

Thread the eye of the left needle 9.

Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will

make needle eye threading easy.

The position of the thread must be behind the

the thread guide.

Draw about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through

needle eye to hang free.

Place the thread to the back, under the presser

foot.

Continue to thread points 4~8.

Note: Slip thread into the front slot of the thread

guide 5 and into the lower slot of take-up

lever cover 6.

Then continue by slipping thread into the

Left slot of the thread guides 7 and 8.

Before threading eye of needle, slip thread behind

thread guide located on the bottom of the needle

clamp.

4

3

2

7

3

2

8

75 4

6

3

2

(4")

10cm


threadguide by pulling






9

8

9

22

To change thread type or color, clip thread near the

spool.

Place new thread on stand.

Tie new thread and old thread ends together with a

square knot. Clip thread tails to 2~3cm (1 inch)

length. If clipped too short, threads may come

untied.

Firmly pull both thread to test knot security.


Pull the threads through the machine one at a time.

If threads do not pull easily, check for tangles on

thread guides or looping under thread stand.

When pulling thread through the needles, STOP

when the knot is in front of the needle.

Cut the thread, and insert it through the needle.

14. HOW TO CHANGE THREADS: TIE ON

METHOD

Left ne dlee

(13/64")

7 mm

(17/64")

5 mm

Right ne dlee

3 mm

(1/8")

5 mm

(3/16")

(10/64")(15/64")

Left ne dlee Right ne dlee

6.0 mm 4.0 mm

23

The stitch length dial should be set on the N

setting for most sewing conditions.

Adjust the stitch length to N~ 4 when sewing

heavy weight fabrics.

Adjust the stitch length to 2~N when sewing

lightweight fabrics to obtain excellent seams

without puckering.

Overedge seam width can be achieved by

repositioning the needle position and also with the

width adjustment knob.

Overedge seam width can be adjusted by changing

the needle position.

a) When using left needle.................................6 mm

(15/64 inch)

b) When only right needle is used....................4 mm

(10/64 inch)

Use of width adjustment knob will permit further

adjustment within the width range shown below.

a) When using left needle...............................5 ~ 7 mm

(13/64 ~ 17/64 inch)

b) When only right needle is used............3.0 ~ 5.0 mm

(1/8 ~ 3/16 inch)

4

3

N

2

16. HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM

WIDTH

15. HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCH

LENGTH

Width Adjustment by Changing Needle Position

Width Adjustment with Adjustment Knob

5

4

1

N

2

6.5

N

5.5

N

24

As shown on the illustration, turn the dial

counter clockwise to increase width of cutting, and

clockwise to decrease width of cutting.

The presser foot pressure of this machine is

pre-adjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of

medium weight fabrics.

Most of the materials do not require adjustment of

presser foot pressure. However, there are some

instances where adjustment is necessary, such as

when sewing lightweight and heavyweight fabrics.

In such case, N for normal, 1 for the lightest pressure,

and 5 for the heaviest.

For lightweight fabric...Decrease the pressure

For heavyweight fabric...Increase the pressure

17. HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER

FOOT PRESSURE

Width adjustment knob

0.8

0.6

N

1.5

2.0

N

0.8

0.6

2.0

1.5

25

Differential feed is a system which "stretches" or

"gathers" the fabric, when the amount of feed of front

feed dogs in relation to the rear feed dogs is changed.

The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.6~1:2.0.

Adjustment is made by means of the differential feed

adjusting dial pictured at right.

Use of differential feed is very effective in overedging

stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias.

Setting "N" is differential feed adjusting dial

setting for ratio 1:1.

Gathered overedge is most suited for shirring

sleeves, yokes, front and back bodices, skirt hems,

etc. in stretch fabrics such as knits and jersey before

assembling into garment.

Set differential feed adjusting dial below

setting "N". Setting of adjusting dial

depends on material being sewn as well as the

amount of desired gather. Therefore set dial to suit the

fabric and test sew before sewing your garment.

Note: For normal overedge stitching, set differential

feed adjusting dial to graduation "N".

N

N

1.5

1.5

18. DIFFERENTIAL FEED

Gathered Overedge

To set the differential feed adjusting dial for gathering

26

Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative

collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and

woven fabrics.

Set differential feed adjusting lever knob above

setting "N".

To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric

by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the

presser foot.

Note: *if amount of "stretch" is not correctly set in

relation to the fabric being sewn, the fabric

is apt to shift away from the needle

resulting in improperly sewn overedge

seam. In such case, reset differential feed

adjusting dial closer to the center mark.

*Be sure to reset the differential feed

adjusting dial to graduation "N" for

normal overedge stitching.

1.5

2.0

0.6

0.8

N

Stretch Overedge

To set the differential feed adjusting dial for stretch

27

When the machine is completely threaded, bring all

of the threads across the throat plate and slightly to

the left under the presser foot.

Hold the threads and apply a slight tension.

Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete

turns to start the thread chain.

Lower presser foot.

Continue holding the chain and press on the foot

controller until the chain is 5~7.5 cm (2~3 inches)

in length.

Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and

sew a test sample.

Note: Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this

may deflect the needle, causing it to break.

At the end of the sample, continue to run the

machine with the presser foot down until the chain

reaches 15 ~20 cm (6~8 inches) in length.

Note: In case it is difficult to chain off when

chain stitching, pull the fabric lightly

backward.

Cut thread.

Note: Anytime you have rethreaded the machine

always chain off and sew a text sample to

test tensions and make adjustments as

necessary.

A mark to indicate the needle location is provided

on the presser foot fitted on this machine. Use

this mark as a guide when sewing.

Mark Mark

5~7.5cm(2~3")

19. CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING

Information

20. SELECTION OF STITCHES

This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of needle positions,

threading methods, tension adjustment and the use of convertible right looper/ .converter

Stitch Type Reference

Page

28

1. Two-thread 1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for

Wrapped Edge

Overlock It is also ideal for rolled and blind hemming.

A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width

can be obtained by changing the needle

position.

2. Two-thread 1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for

Overedge overedging common fabrics. It is also

ideal for flatlock (butted or lapped) seams

and blind hemming. A 4 mm and

6 mm overedge seam width can be

obtained by changing the needle position.

Overlock overedging and seaming on common

fabrics. A 4mm and 6 mm overlock seam

width can be obtained by changing the

needle position.

4. Three-thread 1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for

Flatlock butted or lapped seams and ornamental

stitching with decorative thread. Also,

a 4 mm and 6 mm flatlock width can

be obtained by changing the needle

position.

5. Three-thread 2-needle 3-thread stitch that is ideal for

Ultra-Stretch lightweight, extremely stretchy fabrics

Mock Safety such as tricot and spandex.

Stitch

6.Four-thread Ultra- 2-needle 4-thread stitch that is ideal

Stretch Mock for medium to heavyweight stretchy

Safety Stitch fabrics such as double knits and swim

wear.

3. Three-thread 1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for

seaming lightweight or stretch fabrics.

7. Three-thread 1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for sewing

Rolled Hem narrow rolled hems.

38

31

32

33

34

35

36

29

* Depending on the needle positions used, this machine can sew 2-thread (option-2-thread converter is needed)and 3-thread standard width 4 mm overedge and a 6 mm wide overedge seams.

Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by turning the overedge

seam width adjustment knob. (See page 23)

Overedge width 4.0 mm 6.0 mm

Needle used Overedge right needle Overedge left needle

Needle thread Blue Orange

tension dial

2 . HANDY REFERENCE CHART1

Stitch Type

Tension Dial : Numbers shown are average

settings on medium weight abric withf

St ndard#60 polyester spun threada

The thread tension becomes tighter as the dials are tumed to higher numbers. The tension settings shown on this page as well as throughout the

Instruction book are suggested guides. Adjust thread tensions to suit the fabric and size of thread of thread used. For best results make tension

adjustments in small increments of no greater than half a number at a time.

30

Two - Thread

Wrapped Edge

Overlock

Two - Thread

Overedge

Three - Thread

Overlock

Three - Thread

Flatlock

Three - ThreadUltra - Stretch mockSafety Stitch

four - ThreadUltra - Stretch mockSafety Stitch

1

2

3

4

5

6

4.0mm

6.0mm

4.0mm

6.0mm

4.0mm

6.0mm

4.0mm

6.0mm

Page

Orange Blue

6.5 4.0 31

8.5 3.0 31

1.0 5.5 32

1.0 5.0 32

4.0 4.0 4.0 33

4.0 3.5 3.5 33

0.0 4.5 7.0 34

4.50.0 7.0 34

4.08.5 3.0 35

4.0 364.0 4.04.0

Green Red

7 5.0 4.0 7.0 38Three-ThreadRolled Hem

4.0mm

Underside

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Topside

Red

Underside

Underside

Lower looper thread

4.0

Needle thread

Topside

Orange

Medium weight

Fabric

6.5 Converter

Tension Dial

Blue Green

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB

STITCH LENGTH

Topside

CONVERTER USE

2 ~ 4

N

Medium weight

FabricGreen

Tension Dial

Converter

Orange Blue

8.5

Red

3.0

NEEDLE POSITION

31

Set each tension dial to setting shown at right

and test sew on a sample of your fabric.

Note: * These are suggested tension settings only.

* Tension settings are effected by;

1) Type and thickness of fabric

2) Needle size

3) Size, type and fiber content of thread

When the lower looper thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red) toward

a higher number.

When the lower looper thread tension is too tight or

needle thread tension is too loose;


a lower number.

-Or, turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)

toward a higher number.

1) 2-thread Wrapped Edge Overlock

Correct Balance

22. SUGGESTED TENSION SETTING

How to Balance

Underside

Underside

Underside

Needle thread

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Lower looper thread

Topside

Needle thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Topside

STITCH LENGTH

CONVERTER

NEEDLE POSITION


USE

N

2~4

32

Set each tension dial to settings shown at right





2) Needle size


* See page 12 for instructions on converting

upper looper to converter.

When the lower looper thread lies on the underside

of the fabric;


a higher number.

-Or, turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)

toward a lower number.

When the needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)


-Or, turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red)


2) 2-thread Overedge

Medium weight

FabricGreen

Tension Dial

Converter

Orange Blue

1.0

Red

5.5

How to Balance

Correct Balance

Needle thread

Needle thread

UndersideTopside

Underside

Lower looper thread

Lower looper thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Needle thread

Underside

Lower looper thread

Upper looper thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

STITCH LENGTH

CONVERTER

Needle thread

NEEDLE POSITION


Upper looper thread

Underside

TopsideLower looper thread

2~4

N

N/A

33






2) Needle size


When the upper looper thread lies on the underside

of the fabric;

-Turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)

to a higher number.

- Or, turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red)

to a lower number.

When the lower looper thread appears on the top of

the fabric;

-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red)


-Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)

to a lower number.

When the needle thread is too loose, turn the needle

tension dial (orange or blue) to a higher number.

Medium weight

FabricGreen

Tension Dial

Orange Blue

4.0

Red

3.5

Medium weight

FabricGreen

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

4.04.04.0

3.5

3) 3-thread Overlock

How to Balance

Correct Balance

Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Needle thread

Upper looper thread

TopsideUnderside

Lower looper thread

Topside

Underside

Needle thread

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Needle thread

Topside

Upper looper thread

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Underside

STITCH LENGTH

Upper looper thread

Needle thread


Topside

Needle thread

Lower looper thread

Underside

2~4

N

N/A

NEEDLE POSITION

34






2) Needle size




a higher number.

- Or, turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)

Toward a lower number.

When the upper looper thread tension is too loose;

- Turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)


- Or, turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)


When the needle thread tension is too loose;

- Turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)


-Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)


CONVERTER

Medium weight

FabricGreen

Tension Dial

Orange Blue

0

Red

Medium weight

FabricGreen

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

7.04.50

7.04.5

4) 3-thread Flatlock

How to Balance

Correct Balance

35

Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and

test sew on a sample of your fabric.



1)Type and thickness of fabric

2) Needle size



-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red)


When the left needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the left needle thread tension dial (orange)


When the right needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the needle thread tension dial (blue)


NEEDLE POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N

STITCH LENGTH 2~4

USE

Left Needle thread

Right Needdle thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left Needle thread


Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left Needle thread


Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left Needle thread


Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

CONVERTER

Medium weight

FabricGreen

Tension Dial

Converter

Orange Blue

8.5

Red

3.04.0

How to Balance

Correct Balance

5) 3-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch

36

Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and test

sew on a sample of your fabric.




2) Needle size


When the upper looper thread lies on the underside of

the fabric;

-Turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)


- Or, turn lower looper thread tension dial (red) to a

lower number.

When the lower looper thread appears on the top of

the fabric;

-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red) toward a

higher number.

- Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)


When the left needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the needle thread tension dial (orange)


When the right needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the right needle thread tension dial (blue) toward

a higher number.

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

NEEDLE POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N

STITCH LENGTH 2~4

N/A

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

CONVERTER

Medium weight

FabricGreen

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

4.04.04.04.0

How to Balance

Correct Balance

6) 4-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch

R

N

R

37

This machine can sew four types of rolled hems.

Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedging

the fabric edge.

Light weight fabrics such as lawn, voile, organdy,

crepe, etc. perform the best.

Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff

fabrics.

NOTE: Rolled hemming can only be performed

with the overedge right needle.

Remove the overedge left needle.

Move seam width finger knob to setting R.

Align left face of seam width finger support plate

with R mark on throat plate by turning seam width

adjustment knob, as required.

Set stitch length dial to "1~2" and a fine seam

will be sewn.

Needle: HAx1 (130/705H)

Thread: A variety of thread combinations can be

used for rolled hemming.

Caution:


N

2

1

23. HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM

Machine Set up

NEEDLE POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R

STITCH LENGTH 1~2

Correct Balance

Correct Balance

38



Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper

with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper

with lightweight regular thread.


and text sew on a sample of your fabric.

4.0

4.0 5.0

0

4.0

4.0Woolly nylon

Upper looper thread

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Topside

Underside

Upper looper thread

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Needle thread

TopsideUnderside

Polyester

5.0

5.0 4.0

0

7.0

7.5Woolly nylon

Polyester

Light Weightfabric

Light Weightfabric Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

1) 3-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching

2) 3-thread Upper Looper Thread Wrapped

Rolled Hem Stitching

39

Set each tension dial to setting shown at right and


Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the lower looper

with wooly nylon and the needle with lightweight

regular thread.

Convert upper looper to converter (See page 12)

Set each tension dial to setting shown at right and


Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Topside

Underside

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Topside

Underside

NEEDLE POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R

STITCH LENGTH 1~2

Light Weightfabric

Light Weightfabric

4.5

4.5 4.0

2.5Woolly nylon

Polyester

Woolly nylon

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

3.03.5

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

3) 2-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching

4) 2-thread Lower Thread Wrapped

Rolled Hem Stitching

Correct Balance

Correct Balance

40

Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to

keep it from curling into the seam.

Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the

end of the seam. Allow to dry, then cut the chain

close to the stitches.

Note: Test the liquid seam sealant for color

fastness before use.

Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing

direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained.

The minimum overedge stitch width that can be

obtained for rolled hemming is approximately

1.5 mm (1/16 inch) since the cutting width cannot

be set below 3.5 mm (9/64 inch).

To Secure the Rolled Hem Thread Chain

Additional Information About Rolled Hemming

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Underside

Upper looper thread

Topside

Needle thread

41

A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension ofthe 2-thread (option) or 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing theseam, and then pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam.

The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and

decorative stitch or for ornamentation only.

Use either overedge right needle or overedge left needle.

Begin with the machine threaded and tension balanced for

the 2-thread overedge (page 32) or 3-thread flatlock stitch

(page 34).

Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a decorative

stitch on the right side of the garment.

Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric.

The needle thread (orange or blue) will form a V on the

underside of the fabric.

The lower looper thread will pull into a straight line at the

fabric edge.

Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull the stitches flat.

How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam

1) Machine Set Up

2) Flatlocking a Seam

24. STITCH VARIATIONS AND

SEWING TECHNIQUES

2

1

42

Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking

position (page 11). The fabric is not trimmed on

this stitch.

Fold fabric wrong sides together.

Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part

of the stitch extending off the fabric.

Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten.

The tensions must be correctly adjusted for the

fabric to pull flat.

The upper looper thread is the prominent thread

in the flatlock stitch. Place a decorative thread

in the upper looper and inconspicuous threads

in the lower looper and needle.

For a ladder stitch, sew seam with right sides

together. The needle thread will be the prominent

thread that creates the ladder. (A)

3) Decorative Flatlocking

4) Additional Information About Flatlocking

A

Underside

Topside

1

2

43

The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the

raw edges are overlocked in one operation.

The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear.

It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible.

Use overedge right needle and adjust machine for a narrow

3-thread overlock stitch. (See page 33)

Note: The three-thread flatlock stitch can also be used.

(See page 34)

Set the stitch length dial at 4

Fold the hem to the wrong side of the fabric, then back to

the right side with 6 mm (1/4 inch) beyond the fold.

Stitch on the extended hem edge, allowing the machine

needle to barely catch the edge of the fold.

Note: An optional blindstitch foot is available.

(See page 50)

Sew decorative pin tucks on the fabric before cutting

out the garment.

Use overedge right needle and adjust machine for a

narrow 3-thread overlock stitch. (See page 33)

Note: The rolled hemstitch can also be used for this

technique.

Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking

position. (See page 11)

Mark the fabric with the desired number of pin tucks

using a water-soluble fabric marker

4

3

How to Sew an Overlock Blind Hem

How to Sew Pin Tucks

44

Cut out approximately 2cm (51/64 inch) from the corner,

in line with the overedge seam edge.

Sew one stitch beyond point (A) and stop.

Raise needle and presser foot.

Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just enough

to release the thread caught on the finger of the throat

plate.

Note: Presser foot has been removed to show detail.

Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that the

knife is positioned in line with the cut edge.

Pull slack threads up, then start to sew.

Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and sew.

Press the pin tucks in the same direction.

Cutting line

Cutting line

Cutting line

A

A

Knife

2 cm

2 cm

(1) Outside Corner

Turning Square Corners

Seam lineCut

Needle position

Seam line

45

Insert pins to the left of the presser foot. The pins

will be easy to remove and are away from the cutting

action of the knives.

Thread a large eye, hand sewing needle (such as a

tapestry needle) with the thread chain.

Insert the needle into the end of the seam to secure

thread.

Cut inside corner up to seam line as shown

Sew along seam line.

Sew up to end of fold. (Leave needle in fabric)

Raise presser foot. (Leave needle in fabric)

Spread fold and re-fold so that seam line is straight.

Caution:

Sewing over pins will damage and /or destroy

the cutting edge of the knives.

Pin Placement

Securing the Thread Chain

(2) Inside Corner

46

An overlock machine requires more maintenance than a

conventional machine for two reasons:

1) A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action

of the knives.

2) An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs

to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal

working parts.

Clean the lint from the looper and knife area often

with a dry lint brush.

Danger:

Before cleaning your machine, disconnect

power line plug from the wall receptacle.

The oiling points shown in the diagram, should be

oiled periodically.

Note: Use only sewing machine oil. Do not use any

other oil or damage could result.

Danger:

Before lubricating your machine, disconnect

power line plug from the wall receptacle.A

B

Oil

Cleaning the Machine

Oiling the Machine

25. MACHINE MAINTENANCE

b

d

b

c

a

47

The stationary knife should be changed when it

becomes dull.

The stationary knife can be replaced according to

the directions provided, however if there are any

difficulties experienced, consult your dealer

representative to make the replacement.

Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected

from the electric source.

Open the looper cover and set the moveable upper

knife (a) in the working position.

Loosen the stationary knife set screw (b) and remove

the stationary knife (a).

Turn the hand wheel to lower the stationary knife holder

to its lowest position.

In this position, put a new stationary knife in the

groove of the stationary knife holder, making sure

that the edge of the stationary knife is approximately

0.5 to 1.0 mm below the surface of the fixed cutting

blade (d).

Tighten stationary knife set screw (b).

Before replacing the stationary knife,

disconnect power line plug from the wall

receptacle.

0.5

~1

mm

How to Replace the Knifemoveable upper

Danger:

Light cover screw

Replace Remove

Replace Remove

48

Light bulb is available at your dealer shop. Take

old bulb to the dealer shop and ask for same bulb.

If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of

your machine is 120V, ask for light bulb conforming

to following specification.

- Bayonet type: 110~120V, 15W

Glass shape: T-20

Lamp cap: E12

Overall length: 48mm

Remove light cover screw and while pushing the

cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left and

remove from machine as shown in the illustration.

Turn bulb to the left to remove. To replace the bulb,

push bulb into the socket and turn to the right.

If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of

your machine is 220-240V, ask for light bulb

conforming to following specification.

-Edison type (screw type): 220 ~240V, 15W

Glass shape: T-22

Lamp cap: E14

Overall length: 56mm

Remove light cover screw and while pushing the

cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left and

remove from machine as shown in the illustration.

Turn bulb to the left to remove. To replace the bulb,

screw bulb into the socket and turn to the right.

Danger:

Always unplug before re-lamping.

Caution:

Be sure the light bulb has cooled off before

changing with a new one.

Warning:

Replace the light cover first before connecting

the power line plug.

How to Exchange Light Bulb

B

A

C

49

The following optional presser feet specially

prepared for this machine are available at

extra-charge.

Note: Do not use presser foot made for other

machines. Use of such presser foot may

result in interference with the needle and knife

and can be hazardous.

The snap-on type presser foot of this machine

permits easy removal and replacement.

Caution:

Be sure to disconnect the power line plug or

turn off the power switch when changing the

presser foot.

Raise presser foot and raise needle bar to its

highest position.

Press red colored lever (A) located on back of

clamp under the presser foot shank, raise presser

bar lifter to its High Lift position and while holding

the presser bar lifter in this position, remove the

presser foot plate.

Place presser foot plate on throat plate under

presser foot shank so that hinge pin (C) will fit in

slot (B) of the shank. Then lower presser bar lifter.

If presser foot plate can not be placed under

presser foot shank easily, raise presser bar lifter

to its High Lift position and while holding it in this

position, place presser foot plate under presser

foot shank. Then lower presser bar lifter.

Raise presser bar lifter and make sure the presser

foot plate is properly attached to the presser foot

shank.

Replacement

26. OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

Snap-On Type Presser Foot

Removal

50

This foot is used for attaching elastic tape to the

garment and the amount of contraction of the

elastic tape can be adjusted as required.

This foot is for sewing cuffs on knit fabrics, skirt

and trouser seams where seam should not be

visible.

This foot is most suited for gathering when sewing

tiered skirts, yokes, cuffs and frills on skirts, etc.

This foot is also suited for sewing two fabrics together

and gathering the bottom fabric in one operation.

This foot is used for sewing on beads, etc.

This sewing foot is suited for sewing welting between

two plies of fabric.

This sewing foot is suited for sewing on tapes, etc.

Optional Presser Feet

1) Elastic Foot

2) Blind Hem Foot

3) Shirring Foot

4) Pearl/Sequin Foot

6) Taping Foot

5) Piping/Cording Foot

27. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

51

SolutionProblem Page

Fabric does not feed well - Lengthen stitch length.

- Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric.

- Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabric.

Needle breaks - Insert needle correctly.

- Do not pull fabric while sewing.

- Tighten needle set screw.

- Use a larger needle on heavy fabrics.

Thread breaks - Check threading.

- Check for tangled or caught thread.

- Insert needle correctly.

- Insert new needle, current needle may be bent or have a blunt

Point.

- Use only high quality thread.

- Loosen thread tension.

Stitch skip - Insert new needles, current needles may be bent or have a blunt

point. Use only HAx1(130/705H) overlock needles

- Tighten needle set screw.

- Insert needles correctly.

- Change type or size of needles.

- Check threading.

- Increase presser foot pressure.

- Use a high quality thread.

Irregular stitches - Balance thread tension.


- Check threading.

Fabric puckers - Loosen thread tension.


- Use high quality lightweight thread.

- Shorten stitch length.

- Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabrics.

Irregular trimming - Check alignment of knives.

- Replace one or both knives.

Fabric jams - Close looper cover before sewing.


- Compress thick layers of fabric with conventional machine before

sewing with overlock.

Machine does not operate - Connect machine to power source.

23

24

24

14

27

14

14

15~21

22

14

7

52

26~36

7

14

14

14

15~21

24

52

31~36

22

15~21

31~36

22

52

23

24

47

47

8

22

8

52

Type of Fabric Type of Thread NeedleHAx1 (130/705H)

WOVEN

Lightweight

Lawn, Organdy, Voile, Cotton: #100

Crepe, etc. Silk/ Rayon: #100

Spun: #80 ~ #90

Polyester: #80 ~ #100

Medium Weight

Muslin, Seersucker, Satin, Cotton: #60 ~ #80

Gabardine, Broadcloth, etc Silk/ Rayon: #50

Spun: #60 ~ #80


Heavy Weight

Cotton: #40 ~ #60

Oxford, Denim, Tweed, Silk/ Rayon: #40 ~ #60

Serge,Corduroy Spun:#60 ~ #80


KNIT

Spun: #80 ~ #90

Tricot Polyester: #60 ~ #80

Jersey Spun: #60 ~ #80


Cotton: #60 ~ #80

Wool (woven, knit) Spun: #60 ~ #80


Woolly nylon

Woolly Polyester

#14/90, #11/80

#14/90, #11/80

#11/80

#14/90

#11/80

#14/90, #11/80

28. RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTH, THREAD AND NEEDLE

53

Item Specification

Sewing speed 1,300 spm maximum

Stitch length (feed amount) 1~4 mm (standard: rolled hemming 1-2, ordinary overedge N=2.5)

Differential feed ratio 1:0.6 ~ 1:2 (with differential feed machine)

Overedge stitch width Rolled hemming 1.5 mm, ordinary overedge 3.0 ~ 7.0 mm

(standard 4 mm)

Needle bar stroke 27 mm

Pressure foot rise 4.5 mm

Needle Hax1 (130/705H)

Number of threads 2~4

Machine dimensions (mm)

Width 360

Depth 290

Height 300

Weight (kg) 7.9 kgs

29. SPECIFICATION

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