defining the construction 123
TRANSCRIPT
PRPJECTON
LASTING
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
SUBMITTED BY-TARANG KARPE
BATCH – PGDM(FT) 10A
ROLL NO. 28
SUBMITED TO- MS. KUSHBOO BHATIA LASTING DEPARTMENT (FDDI, NOIDA)
I have taken efforts in this project. However, it would not have been possible without the kind support and help of Ms. Kushboo Madam, my colleges and my organization FDDI. I would like to extend my sincere thanks to all of them.
I am highly indebted to (Footwear Design And Development Institute’s Guide) for their guidance and constant supervision as well as for providing necessary information regarding the project & also for their support in completing the project.
PROJECT TOPIC AND SPECIFICATIONS
750 pairs of footwear production par day (lasting+finishing+packaging) the points to be written are as follows:-
Material requirement Last requirement Man power requirement Machine requirement its specifications i.e. conveyer
system, dimension etc. Plant layout including upper storage finished goods
storage along with additional office space, toilets, cafeteria etc.
Total area to be provided-2400 sq. Ft. First plot area-40x30 sq. Ft.(1200 sq. Ft.) Second plot area-40x30 sq. Ft.(1200 sq. Ft.) Area between two plots-20 ft. That will be a
road. San crispino construction with synthetic upper, EVA mid
sole, rubber out sole.
D efining T he C onstruction:- San Crispino Shoe Construction is a type of stitch-down footwear construction technique where upper material is flared outward and wrapped around and under the edge of an extended insole board. The upper is then stitched close to the last and cemented to the sole.
C ross S ectional V iew:-
*The above mentioned language is German and the translation is as follows:-
1)Schaft mit futter- upper with lining\ Shaft with chuck
2)Brandsohle-insole
3)Doppelnaht-double seam
4)Klebstoff-glue\ adhesive
5)Ausballung-shaping
6)Laufsohle-outsole
A bout T he C onstruction:- It is a light supple and the most flexible shoe and is also called
as comfort shoe. In earlier times this elaborate technique was known in Italian as
"lavorzione viareggiano" and was only later named after Saint
Crispin, the patron saint of tanners and shoemakers, who was martyred in France a thousand years ago.
The identifying feature of this style of construction is the hand-sewn seam all round, which not only makes the shoe durable and comfortable but also gives it its typical San Crispino character.
However, it is currently enjoying a revival and is at the cutting-edge of fashion, and not just for men.
Ideal construction to meet the requirements for a comfortable feel-good shoe.
T he S hoe M aking P rocess:- To make the shoe, we first fit a midsole onto the last that
overlaps it by five millimetres. The shaft of the shoe is then hand-sewn onto the protruding
edge of the midsole.
TOE PUFF ATTACHMENT
COUNTER MOULDING, TOWARDS OUTSIDE
RUNNER ATTACHMENT WITH LAST
FLANGING OF UPPER TWORDS OUTWARD DIRECTION
ADHESIVE APPLICATION TO ATTACH UPPER WITH RUNNER
At the same time the shaft is moulded onto the last so that it can develop the comfortable wearing qualities so characteristic of BÄR.
Later, when the shoe is finished, the leather of the shaft will cover the edge of the midsole if we are using synthetic material as the upper this step is skipped.
We then raise the nap of the leather that is underneath the midsole and fix it with a special adhesive raising the nap is not done in other uppers.
The sole is positioned by hand and fixed, again with a special adhesive, by being pressed onto the shaft.
As well as the advantages mentioned above, such as flexibility and suppleness, the San Crispino construction also prevents the shoe's upper from coming away from the sole.
Examples Of Shoes Made From San Crispino Construction:-
=
S e quence O f O peration :-
A bout T he S ole:- In footwear industry, thermoplastic rubber is used in the the production of shoes soles, loaters sole, safety shoes sole & industrial shoes sole, sports shoes sole, ski-boot soles, kiddy shoes sole and
related decorative accessories, unisole. modifier asphalt, modification modifier for SMC (sheet moulding compound) and other thermoset & thermoplastic composites.
S ole T reatment (of TPR Sole):-
(HALOGENATION)
PRIMER-TPR (POWDER + LIQUID)
TPR Primers are specially formulated for halogenating Rubber, Synthetic materials and TPR soles used in footwear manufacturing. It can also be used as an alternative to mechanical roughing of Rubber soles. Primers are normally available in a powder form along with specific thinner. Both the products should be mixed at the manufacturers' factory as per the specified ratio (in case of TPR-22 of Fevicol, full content of TPR-22(powder) 25gms. should be directly added in TPR-22(liquid) 1000ml. bottle) Close the lid, stir thoroughly. If smaller quantity of primer is required, proportional quantity of powder & liquid should be mixed (e.g. 2.5 gms. powder in 100 ml liquid)
Application Method: Pour required quantity of primer in a small polythene or glass container and apply it on soles by using brush or cloth avoiding skin contact. Allow 2 to 3 hrs for drying before applying adhesive coat on soles. The primed surfaces should be protected from dust. it is important to note that although normally
Halogenations remain effective for 2 weeks, it is advisable to use within 3-4 days. Keep mixed solution of unused quantity in the original amber coloured glass bottle.
CAUTION: -
Do not Pour back the used mix, in the bottle. Use the mixed solution within 24 hrs for better performance. Mixed solution should not be stored in a metal container. Use soft brush for TPR substrates. The brush should not have metal parts which is exposed to
primer.
SAFETY:-
Avoid direct skin contact with solution, use Rubber gloves while application.
Haloginated soles should be kept for drying for minimum 1 hr. before adhesive application.
Keep the primer in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight in a close container preferably below 30degree C.
M achine S pecifications:- COUNTRY PICTURE MENUFECTURER MODEL DESCRIPTION PRICE(INR)
Italy STEMA PP 02 (CE cert.)
Toe puff attaching m/c
150000
China QiFeng Shoes Machine
QF-238S/L Chilling Machine-shoes machine
800000
China Wenzhou Zhuda Machinery Co., Ltd
ZD1000P2.XB freque polishing and brushing machine
100000
Italy DEL MORO N\A Spray booth(3 pincers)
200000
Indonesia Taiwan NC-403 Dust Colector for 2 machine 22208
Italy ELETTROTECNICA BC 300 (CE cert.)
Programmable heat setter 4 tracks
350000
Italy HESPERIA RIB/15 R (CE cert.)
Pounding m/c 127593
China YUANYI SHOES MACHINERY FACTORY
YE-520B Two Shaft Mightiness Roughing Machine
155000
Italy MOLINAE BLANCHI 02SC0000 HEAT REACTIVATION
100000
ITALY BANF s.r.l P99/S SOLE PRESS MACHINE
400000
ITALY MEC-VAL PC 82.R SOLE MARKING MACHINE
50000
CHINA DISEL GENERATOR
230000
CHINA AIR COMPRESSOR
195638
T otal M achine C ost:- Total cost-Rs. 12330439 Depreciation cost@10% would be-Rs. 1233043.9 Cost per month will be-1233043.9/12=Rs. 102753.658 Cost per day would be-102753.658/30=Rs. 3425.12 Cost per pair@750 pairs-3425.12/750=Rs. 4.56
R aw M aterials R equirements:- TPR sole – 75 Rs.\pair PU coated upper – 350 Rs.\sq.ft. EVA mid sole – 80 Rs.\sheet Neoprene – 155Rs.\Ltr.
PU Adhesive - 165Rs\Ltr. Tack – 60Rs\half kg Size 40 thread – 180Rs.\cup(1500 Metre) Size 60 thread – 150Rs.\cup(1500 Meter)
Total per pair cost of raw materials:-
TPR sole per pair-75 Rs. PU coated upper per pair-77.50 Rs. EVA midsole per pair (12 pairs per sheet)-6.66 Rs. Neoprene per pair-1.68 Rs. PU adhesive per pair-2.12 Rs. Tacks per pair-0.16 Rs. 12 cord rot-proof stitching thread per pair cost-1.20 Rs.
Now by adding all the above values the total per pair cost of the raw materials came out to be-164.32 Rs.
Labour Cost [Delhi\NCR]:-
Skilled workers – Rs.193\day Semi skilled workers – Rs. 174\day Un-skilled workers – Rs. 152\day
Machine DimensionIn mm2
Workers required
Time per pair
Toe puff attaching m/c
300X500 1 semi skilled
Chilling Machine 4266X900 1 unskilledSpray booth 600X800 1 skilled
heat setter 900X400 1 unskilledPounding m/c 850X530 10 skilled+4
helpers(will be responsible for hand lasting operation)
Roughing Machine
1000X900 1 skilled
HEAT REACTIVATION
4266X900 1 skilled
SOLE PRESS MACHINE
850X530 1 unskilled
SOLE MARKING MACHINE
200X300 1 unskilled
DISEL GENERATOR
597366.5X298218.7
1 technician + 1 engineer
AIR COMPRESSOR
597366.5X298218.7
Same as above
Total Worker cost:-
Skilled X 13 = Rs. 2509 Semi-skilled X 1+ 4(helpers) =Rs. 870 Un-skilled X 4=Rs. 608 Total cost =Rs. 3987 Therefore, per pair cost = 3987/750 =
Rs. 5.31
Total Staff Cost (per month salary):-
Manager = Rs. 20000 Supervisor = Rs. 12000 Quality checker = Rs. 10000 Total per month cost = Rs.42000 Per day cost = 42000/30 = Rs.1400 Therefore cost per pair = Rs.1.86
Electricity cost of the factory:-
Formula to calculate electricity cost is =
electricity usage=wattage X hoursused1000
X price per KWH
electricity usage=20000 X81000
X 5.5KWH=880 Rs .
So per pair cost = 0.14 Rs.
Overall cost per pair:-
Material cost\pair + Machine cost\pair + worker cost\pair + staff cost\pair + electricity cost\pair = Rs. 164.32 + Rs.4.56 + Rs. 5.31 + Rs. 1.86 + Rs.0.14 = Rs. 176.19
L ast R equirement:- Production/Day=750 pairs. Last Engaged Time=60 Mins. Expected Working Hours=8 Hrs Actual Working Hours=7 Hrs Last Rotation=Actual Working Hours/Last Engaged Time. Last Required= Total Production/Last Rotation. Last Rotation=420/60
CLEANINGTHREAD BURNING
REPAIRING
EDGE COLOURING
POLISHINGSOCK ATTACHING
Last Rotation=7 times. Last Required=750/7 Last Required=107 pairs. Rate=Rs450/pair. Cost=107*450. Last Cost=48150.
F inishing:-
The shoemaking Process is a rough process its meant for giving a proper shape to the shoe.During this the appearance of the upper material may get affected.
The process which Enhances the appearance and restores the inherent characteristics of the upper leather is called shoe finishing.Finishing is done to upgrade the quality
of the shoe.
T he F inishing P rocess:-
P ACKAGING:-
There are 750 pairs of shoes to be packed every day. One pair can fit in a shoe box. One carton can have 12 pairs of shoe. Therefore for 750 pairs of shoes we need 73 cartons. The shoes would be placed (inside the carton) in accordance
with the size and the demand of buyer. Pricing of a box is – Rs.11 Pricing of carton is – Rs.34