„delicate‟ or „sheer‟ fabrics form a category of...
TRANSCRIPT
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Chapter - 5
SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS
In this fast world of fashion India can not survive in the export market
without exploiting the potential of delicate fabrics which continue to be very
popular. „Delicate‟ or „Sheer‟ fabrics form a category of fabrics which are very
revealing and transparent. They inspire the finest workmanship. Due to
historical background, India has an advantage and the potential to develop
into a key player in the global market place with sheer fabrics. Some basic
strengths which India possess like traditional weaving and embroidery skills,
rich colors, beautiful patterns and design collection can contribute immensely
in this direction.
Sheer fabrics require some special techniques at each and every step
of handling, cutting, sewing and finishing. A preliminary survey conducted in
garment construction units revealed that a standardized procedure and
technique could not be found while construction of garment from delicate
fabrics. This is primarily due to lack of availability and awareness of
appropriate equipments and machineries. Even if suitable equipments and
machineries are available, there is no proper training and awareness among
workforce who play an important role in conversion of delicate fabrics into
garments. Such a scenario effects the quality of garments and health of the
workers. The standardized technique and procedure can be brought in if
working conditions, equipment, type of tools used and method of working are
standardized.
The present study was hence conducted with the objective of
understanding the manufacturing techniques and machinery involved in
processing of garments made of delicate fabrics. The problems involved at
various levels in the garment industry were identified and the most suitable
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techniques and equipment used during handling and finishing of seven
different types of delicate fabrics were experimented. A catalogue explaining
the best methods for dealing and caring of different types of delicate fabrics
was prepared and impact of the prepared catalogue on production of
garments with such fabrics was thus studied.
To achieve the objectives of the study following steps were adopted.
The methodology was divided into three phases which included exploratory,
experimental and dissemination of information.
Phase I – The exploratory study was conducted on 30 export houses, 10
buying houses, 10 boutiques and stitching units from Delhi and NCR region.
The data was collected from 200 respondents which included the owner,
manager, workers and functional heads of various departments of export
house like store, marking and cutting, sewing, finishing. The frame work for
this phase is elaborated in plate 5.1.
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Suitable questionnaires were designed and circulated among the
owners and managers of the export houses. The information from functional
heads and operators or workers was collected through six sets of interview
schedules. Observation was done at various departments of export house
which included store, cutting, sewing and finishing. Buying house and other
stitching units were also included in the study to find out manufacturing
techniques and construction related problems. As people engaged in
manufacturing of garments from delicate fabrics were also suffering from
certain occupational health hazards, an interview schedule was also designed
to collect data related to health conditions from 100 workers working in
different departments of 10 export houses. Two individuals from each
department namely pattern making, store, marking & cutting, sewing and
finishing were included for this section of the study.
Phase II – The data gathered through exploratory stage revealed various
problems at pre sewing, sewing and post sewing stage. Amongst these the
most commonly found problems were seam related problems which included
seam puckering and seam slippage. Experiments were conducted to find out
the way to minimize or eliminate these problems.
The survey conducted in NCR region revealed that manufacturers
were mostly using seven types of delicate fabrics which were selected for
experimental study. These included silk georgette, poly georgette, viscose
georgette, voile, silk crepe, organdy and silk chiffon. The mechanical and
physical properties of selected delicate fabrics were studied.
In order to reduce garment construction related problems,
manufacturing techniques adopted by different construction units were
compared. Experiments were also conducted on the seam related problems.
To study the mechanism of seam puckering, AATCC 88B-1996 test method
and for seam slippage ASTM D 1683-90a test method were used. Fabric
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samples of selected delicate fabrics were prepared considering various
sewing parameters. The sewing parameters considered during preparation of
samples are given in Table 5.1 and 5.2.
Table 5.1 Sewing parameters considered as constants while preparing samples
Thread Stitch
Per Inch
Thread Tension
Pressure on
Presser Foot
Height of
Feed Dog
Speed Type of Seam
Upper Lower
3 ply spun
polyester thread
12 40CN 20CN 4Kg 0.6mm 4000spm
Single Needle Lock Stitch
Table 5.2 Sewing parameters considered as variables considered while preparing samples
Fabric Code Needle
Size ( FG Point)
Presser Foot
Type Feed dog
Angle of feed dog
Throat plate
A( A1- A72) B( B1- B72) C( C1- C72) D( D1- D72) E( E1- E72) F( F1- F72) G( G1- G72)
7
9
11
Simple
Roller
Teflon Coated with
ring
Simple
Teflon coated
Straight
Front up
12 no.
14 no.
For each fabric sample seventy two samples with different
combinations of the selected parameters were prepared. Three readings for
each test were conducted. A total of 1512 (7 x 72 x 3) samples were prepared
for seam puckering and the same number of samples was prepared for seam
slippage assessment. Once the different samples were prepared, subjective
seam puckering assessment (Fig. 5.1) was done by four experts. In case of
seam slippage, the prepared samples were tested on tensile strength tester
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(Fig. 5.2) and the load required to cause a yarn displacement of 6mm was
calculated. During experiments best combination of sewing parameters for
stitching delicate fabrics were identified. The frame work of phase 2 and
phase 3 is elaborated in Plate 5.2.
Fig 5.1 Seam puckering judgment scale (5-1) Fig 5.2 Tensile testing instrument
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Phase III – This phase dealt with the dissemination of information related to
the most suitable techniques and equipments used during handling and
finishing of different types of delicate fabrics. For suggesting tips regarding
construction of garments, a booklet in form of practical manual and a book
were prepared. A leaflet and a booklet containing information related to
preventive measures regarding various health related issues for workers of
industry was designed and distributed to the respondents. Feedback of
respondents was taken to analyze the acceptability and impact of the
prepared material on production of garments with such fabrics.
Garments manufactured from delicate fabrics involve many processing
steps, beginning with an idea or design and ending with the finished product.
The major findings of the present study are presented in following heads –
5.1.1 Profile of respondents
5.1.2 Manufacturing techniques involved in processing of garments
5.1.3 Identification of problems
5.1.4 Experiments conducted
5.1.5 Dissemination of information and its impact
5.1.1 PROFILE OF RESPONDENTS
For proper interpretation of the findings profile of the respondents were
studied. This section comprises of classification of the selected sample into
different categories according to their personal characteristics.
Construction related
Survey of garment construction units revealed that among 200
respondents maximum people (39%) were within the age group of 31 to 45
years, around one forth of the respondents fall in the age group of 46 to 60
years and very small percentage of respondents belong to the age group
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above 60 years. More than three forth of respondents gathered knowledge
due to personal interest in the field of garment manufacturing (Fig. 5.3).
Fig. 5.3 Source of knowledge of respondents
Health related
The present study revealed that more than two third of the
respondents involved in the industry were male. Among the respondents
more than half of the owner, manager and the fabricators had an experience
of more than 5 years. It was found that the garment units hardly organized
any training programmes for the upliftment of their employees. The 50% of
the respondents from sewing department and 40% of finishing department
were working for more than ten hours per day (Fig. 5.4).
Fig. 5.4 Working hours of respondents
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5.1.2 MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES INVOLVED IN PROCESSING OF
GARMENTS
Garments manufactured from delicate fabrics involved many
processing steps. Few findings of the present study are outlined below
The patterns were usually made and graded by experienced
pattern masters either manually (70%) or with the use of CAD
system (30%).
According to respondents, silk georgette was found to be the most
commonly used delicate fabric in the garment industry. Poly
georgette, chiffon, viscose georgette, nylon and organdy are also
popular fabrics among delicate fabrics (Fig.5.5).
Fig. 5.5 Commonly used delicate fabrics*
*Data based on multiple responses
The delicate fabrics were inspected on white table or fabric
inspection machine using (AAMA) 4-Point system.
Single layer spreading and cutting was practiced in case of
embroidered fabrics and multiple layering in case of plain delicate
fabrics or lining materials. Layering or spreading was usually done
manually for delicate fabrics.
Due to the transparency of delicate fabrics, the patterns were
placed beneath the fabric layers and marking was done using glass
pencils or chalk. Notches were also applied as balance marks.
88.5 80.5
54 66.5
28 37
31 18 17 15
7.5
0
20
40
60
80
100
Delicate fabrics
% Respons
e
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a b c d e f g h
7571.6
48.353.3
66.6
85
78.3
60
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
Perc
en
tag
e o
f
Resp
on
den
ts
Problems
a b c d e f g h
7571.6
48.353.3
66.6
85
78.3
60
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
Perc
en
tag
e o
f
Resp
on
den
ts
Problems
Simple shears was used in single layer cutting and in case of
multiple layer rotary cutters, band knife or straight knife cutters
were used.
During stitching of delicate fabrics adjustment of sewing
parameters like pressure foot, upper thread tension, lower thread
tension, height of feed dog were usually based on hit and trial
methods.
Only 6.6% respondents applied stay stitch on the curved edges of
cut pieces of delicate fabrics. To avoid fraying of edges 26.6%
respondents were also trying anti fraying sprays.
Seams like french seam, mock french seam, self bound seam or
double stitched seam were used for delicate fabrics.
Electric or steam irons were used by the respondents for delicate
fabrics.
5.1.3 IDENTIFICATION OF PROBLEMS
It was observed that respondents were facing lots of problems at
various stages (pre-sewing, sewing and post sewing) of garment
construction. These problems were consolidated and are summarized in Fig
5.6, 5.7 and 5.8.
Problems faced at Pre – Sewing stage
Fig. 5.6 Problems faced at Pre – Sewing stage
a) Dimensional change b) Fabric defects & holes c) Spots and stains d) Yarn pulling e) Difficult to stay on flat surface f) Fraying of edges g) Difficulty in marking the details h) Single layer cutting is practiced which is a
time consuming process
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a b c d e
61.6
73.366.6
91.688.3
01020304050
60
70
80
90
100
Perc
en
tag
e o
f
Resp
on
den
ts
Problems
a b c d e
61.6
73.366.6
91.688.3
01020304050
60
70
80
90
100
Perc
en
tag
e o
f
Resp
on
den
ts
Problems
a b c d e
68.3
85
71.6
43.3
63.3
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Pe
rce
nta
ge o
f R
esp
on
de
nts
Problems
a b c d e
68.3
85
71.6
43.3
63.3
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
Pe
rce
nta
ge o
f R
esp
on
de
nts
Problems
Problems faced at Sewing stage
Fig. 5.7 Problems faced at Sewing stage
a) Formation of sewing marks during
stitching b) Seam grinning c) Finished look of garment is difficult to
achieve d) Seam puckering e) Seam slippage
Problems faced at Post – Sewing stage
Fig. 5.8 Problems faced at Post – Sewing stage
a) Shape distortion b) Color fading c) Marks and other stains d) Embroidery related defects e) Unclipped threads hanging
Amongst the various problems at sewing stage, seam puckering was
faced by 91.6% respondents. It was then followed by seam slippage which
was reported by 88.3% of respondents (Fig.5.7).
The most prevelant construction related problems at pre – sewing stage
was fraying of edges faced by 85% of the respondents(Fig.5.6).
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In case of post sewing stage highest percentage of respondents were
facing the problem of color fading (Fig.5.8).
Beside these garment construction related problems, respondents were
also suffering from a few accidents and health related issues.
Out of the total group highest percentage of the respondents working in
finishing department faced injuries, followed by sewing and cutting
department (Fig.5.9). The respondents of finishing department reported
that the most usual accident experiences were burning of fingers and
arms during ironing. Injury at both index finger and middle fingers was
also commonly seen in thread cutting section of finishing department. The
workers while stitching also injured their eyes due to flying of the broken
needle into the eyes.
Fig.5.9 Accidents faced by various departments
1020
60 6070
0
20
40
60
80
Accid
en
ts
faced
(%
)
Pattern
maker
Store Marking &
Cutting
Sew ing Finishing
Various Departments
The health related problem faced by more than sixty percent of the
workers in garment manufacturing units was the musculoskeletal disorder
(MSD) (Fig.5.10).
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Fig. 5.10 Health related issues of respondents
Among the respondents, neck pain was felt by 36.5% followed by pain in
lower back (33.3%), pain in knee (30%), shoulder and hand pain (27%).
Various environmental parameters like temperature, humidity, light and
noise at the place where production of garments with sheer fabrics was
done. The analysis showed that these parameters were either not upto the
standard or were marginally acceptable.
According to the respondents repetition of activities, awkward postures,
localized pressure, excessive force, unsatisfactory environmental
conditions and uncomfortable workstation were the few causes of health
related problems.
The study indicated that a few of the workers were aware of any protective
clothing. Measures like hand glove, thimble, ear plugs and face mask
which were meant to protect from accidents, cuts and injuries during
production process were not found at the site.
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5.1.4 Experiments conducted
The exploratory study suggested that there were a lot of problems the
industry faced. Since all the problems could not be handled during the study,
the most prevalent ones like seam puckering and seam slippage were
selected for further experimenting.
Seam puckering is a major defect when quality and finish of a
garment made up of sheer fabrics is considered. Parameters like needle size,
pressure foot type, feed dog and its position affect seam puckering. During
experiments optimum condition of these parameters for seven different sheer
fabrics were studied. The findings of the experiments related to seam
puckering are given below –
With all the sheer fabrics, use of finer needle (No.7) gave rise to less
seam puckering. However, the seam puckering was least in case of
organdy fabric.
In case of fabrics made from filament yarns, Teflon coated pressure foot
with rings gave least seam pucker while in case of fabrics made from spun
yarns, roller type pressure foot gave low seam puckered stitches. The Fig.
5.11 shows the machine attachment used in experiments.
Fig. 5.11 Machine attachments (Pressure foot with ring and with roller)
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In most of the selected delicate fabrics, type of feed dog did not have any
significant effect on seam pucker. However, use of teflon coated feed dog
is recommended to avoid sewing marks on the sheer fabrics.
For all the fabrics, front-up position of the feed dog gave less seam
pucker.
The size of throat plate has some effect on seam pucker. In general, the
seam pucker increased while using bigger throat plate. Hence throat plate
no.12 need to be used instead of throat plate no. 14 in case of delicate
fabrics.
Experiments were also conducted to optimize parameters which
effects seam slippage. Findings of seam slippage experiments indicated
following results –
Low cover factor may be the reason behind the high seam slippage rating
in organdy and chiffon as compared to other selected delicate fabrics.
It was noticed that delicate fabrics having lower cover factor, lesser
thickness and lesser GSM as compared to other delicate fabrics are likely
to cause more seam slippage.
Experiments of seam puckering and seam slippage suggested that
in order to get seams which satisfy the requirements of good appearance and
performance for a particular sheer fabric, correct selection of sewing thread,
needle and other machine parameters needs to be done. In experiments
conducted in the present study, the most suitable sewing conditions for the
selected delicate fabrics were optimized and are given in Table 5.3.
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Table 5.3 – Most suitable sewing conditions for the selected delicate fabrics
FABRIC
NEEDLE
PRESSURE FOOT TYPE
FEED DOG*
ANGLE OF FEED DOG
THROAT PLATE NUMBER
Silk Georgette
7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12
Poly Georgette
7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12
Viscose Georgette
7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12
Voile
7 or 9 T.C. with rings or roller T.C. or simple
Front up or straight
12
Organdy
7,9 or 11 Roller T.C. Front up 12 or 14
Chiffon
7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12
Silk Crepe
7 T.C. with rings T.C. Front up 12
. *T.C. indicates Teflon coating
5.1.5 Dissemination of information and its impact
In order to disseminate the information gathered through literature, survey,
experiences shared by respondents and results achieved from experiments,
some information material in the form of booklet, book and leaflet were
prepared. These prepared informational materials were given to different
target groups according to their needs to generate awareness.
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The booklet titled “TIPS FOR HANDLING DELICATE FABRICS
WHILE GARMENT MANUFACTURING” which consisted of necessary details
in the form of problems faced during garment construction and the
recommended suggestions. It was made available to the heads of different
departments in export houses so that they communicate the information to
the workers of their departments. To judge the acceptability of the booklet an
acceptability questionnaire was distributed along with the booklet. The
feedback collected after three months indicated that 89% of the respondents
felt that the suggestions were quiet appropriate and believed that quality of
garments would improve after adoption of the suggestions. The feedback by
86.8% respondents suggested that the number of alterations and rejections
decreased after adoption of suggestions.
The book entitled “A GUIDE TO MANUFACTURE GARMENTS USING
DELICATE FABRICS” which comprised of detailed information related to
construction of garments from delicate fabrics was provided to various
manufacturing units and libraries of various institutes and organizations
(Fig.5.12).
To generate awareness regarding health a booklet was made available
to the heads of different departments in export houses so that they
communicate the information to the workers of their department. The booklet
was entitled “PREVENTION AND CURE OF HEALTH ISSUES FACED BY
GARMENT INDUSTRY”.
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Fig. 5.12 Informational material developed during study
Leaflet suggesting simple tips and exercises related to
musculoskeletal injuries entitled “Jo fit vo hit” was designed in hindi and was
distributed among the workers of garment construction units.
5.2 CONCLUSIONS
The present study revealed that the Indian garment manufacturers
dealing with delicate fabrics did not have sufficient awareness and complete
knowledge regarding techniques and machineries which they could use
during production. Individuals involved in garment production from delicate
fabrics had a strong need to upgrade their knowledge which gives them some
ideas and tips to handle regular problems related to quality of manufacturing
of garments.
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Various problems which the industry is facing could be minimized by
sharing the experiences of different people regarding procedure and
techniques for working with sheer fabrics. To avoid seam related problems
standardized techniques need to be outlined. It is recommended that in order
to get seams which fulfill the requirements of good appearance and
performance, correct selection of fabric, sewing thread, needle and machine
parameters for all sheer fabrics needs to be standardized. Beside this, the
garment industry should focus and develop good working conditions to
reduce the injuries to their workers. The study shows that there is ample room
for ergonomic improvements in the industry. With proper training and
instructions, personal protective equipments, therapeutic exercises and
ergonomically designed work systems, garment workers can manufacture
products in safe and healthy workplaces.
The present study thus clearly highlights that if the Indian garment
industry has to perform well and grow to its full potential, this particular
section where delicate fabrics are converted to the fashionable garments
needs to be given adequate care. The quality of production needs to be
monitored. The common problems which are being faced by various units
have small remedies to which mutual sharing, training of workforce, input at
small settings of machinery and technology can contribute to a great extent in
ensuring a quality of produced items. Thus an ensured and upgraded quality
of production can contribute to the Indian economy generating higher foreign
exchange and job market for the young population of country.
5.3 IMPLICATION OF STUDY FOR THE INDUSTRY
In order to sustain in any industry in the present scenario, the quality of
production has to be up to the mark. In the garment industry which is fully
oriented with the world of fashion, target time is also desired.
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There are five basic requirements for running an industry successfully
in the form of 5 M‟s. They are Manpower, Machines, Methods, Materials and
Money. In the present study attempts were taken to fulfill all the basic
requirements in garment industry dealing with delicate fabrics. The present
study is therefore a small attempt where in gaps between the technology
available and being used were identified and the collected information was
provided to the beneficiaries. The flowchart below (Plate 5.3) gives a brief
idea of impact this study can have on the industry if the suggestions are
adopted and interventions are accepted.
Plate no. 5.3 Impact of study on Garment industry
Through the study we can understand the most suitable techniques and
equipments used during handling and finishing of different types of
delicate fabrics. The knowledge and suggestions recommended in the
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study could be used to select the technique and machineries to enhance
the quality garments and hence increase the production of garments
from sheer fabrics.
The experimental research findings may serve as effective guidelines for
the people working in garment construction units, about ill effects of work
performance due to wrong selection of sewing parameters without
considering the properties of each sheer fabric. The knowledge about
recommended sewing parameters will prove to be quite useful in
minimizing seam related problems like seam slippage and seam
puckering.
The study would help the industry in reviewing the concept of work-related
musculoskeletal disorders and discuss the basis of their prevention as a
primary means of occupational injury and illness management. The study
focused on the potential ergonomic problems and solutions that were
identified through research.
The informational material related to health could be useful to initiate
changes in the workplace by creating a starting point for discussion and
stimulating ideas on how conditions in the Indian units can be improved.
In developing countries, the scale of use of human resources in labor-
intensive small or medium scale industries is enormous. In this situation, it
must be obvious that very small improvements in working conditions,
implements, tool design or working methods can lead to large benefits.
The present study is an attempt in this area where the suggestions
implemented may bring some changes in the industry.
It is believed that occupational health programs should focus more on the
informal sector, which employs a large proportion of workers. In the
present study simple and scientific exercises are suggested for the
workers to prevent and cure various musculoskeletal pains at various
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body parts which can be practiced at break time. Paying attention to
occupational health and safety in this sector and improving working
conditions will undoubtedly have considerable impact on the national
economy and the quality of people‟s life.
Since the number of such studies conducted in developing countries has
been less. The present study could serve as milestone for garment
construction units handling sheer fabrics.
The study can help formulate guidelines for garment construction units for
safety, quality and higher efficiency of the industry at large.
5.4 LIMITATIONS OF THE STUDY
The prepared informational material was given to a small group of people.
This itself proves to be a major limitation of the study keeping in mind the
large number of manufacturers spread in various parts of the country.
Only the informational material was provided to the targeted group,
training sessions were also desired to be planned for vast acceptability of
suggestions and to bring some impact on the study.
All problems faced during construction of garments from delicate fabrics
were not handled, only the prominent ones like seam puckering and seam
slippage were selected for experimenting.
The impact of prepared informational material on production was not
studied since it would have involved longer durations.
The impact of various suggestions given in curing MSD could not be
analyzed in the present study due to time constraints.
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With changing fashion, sheer fabrics keep changing. This study was
done on seven fabrics selected during the initial phase of study. Newly
introduced fabrics and other sheer fabrics could not be studied in the
present work.
Sheer fabrics are used more for garments which are exported. Such
industries are spread across the country. In the present study only Delhi
and NCR region were explored and a small sample of 200 was selected
which itself proves to be a limitation seeing the quantum of exports of our
country.
5.5 FUTURE RESEARCH AND RECOMMENDATIONS
No research work is complete and adequate in itself. There is always
scope for further research irrespective of areas. The present study opens
avenues for future research of which few could be accomplished in further
course of action. The present research work is an attempt to explore the
manufacturing techniques and machinery involved in processing of garments
made of delicate fabrics. Through this study the problems involved at various
levels in garment industry dealing with delicate fabrics were explored and
suggestions were given to the people working in garment manufacturing
units. As an impact of the foregone findings and research, following
suggestions and recommendations could be implemented to add up to the
research in the area of garment manufacturing.
A study of longer duration for extending the knowledge to reach the
beneficiaries is desired. To make an impact on the industry the present
suggestions need to reach the mass. Hence an extension activity to
dissipation the prepared material at larger level is desired to bring some
marginal changes in the industry.
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A study which would include preparation of training material, video
documentaries and printed material with necessary modifications for the
beneficiaries needs to be planned.
There are various export oriented units in southern part of India and in
other areas of the country. For bringing effective results in the garment
manufacturing industry dealing with delicate fabrics, the suggestions
regarding standardized method and techniques adopted need to reach
various areas of the country.
Various workshops and training programmes need to be designed for the
actual workforce involved in the industry so that the whole industry works
towards increasing and improving productivity.
Beside delicate fabrics, other fabrics which are being used also need to be
explored. A survey needs to be done to analyze the problems with other
fabrics, so that appropriate suggestions and awareness can be created
among manufacturers. This would increase total exports from India thus
bringing increase in countries foreign currency.
The study indicated that manufacturers are facing a lot of problems during
processing of garments. Due to limited time and resources experiments
were focused on seam puckering and seam slippage. Suggestions for
other problems were mainly based on available literature, survey and
experiences shared by the people involved in this profession and experts.
Thus a separate study can be taken up on various other problems faced
by manufactures.