desert companion - december 2011
DESCRIPTION
Your guide to living in Southern Nevada. 15th annual restaurant issue.TRANSCRIPT
AwA r d sBurger
CityWe meat business
Holy HigH rollerThe final
sermon of the gambling
priest
Words of WarAuthor
H. Lee Barnes remembers
Vietnam
Plus:CHefs,
foodies
And CriTiCs
piCk THeir
personAL
BesT
our 15tH annual
Mediterranean
sea bass with
ratatouille, basil
oil and cherry
tomato coulis
from our
neighborhood
restaurant
of the Year
Page 42
DECEMBER 2011
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editor’s note
2 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
WWe owe the brainiacs at Brookings Mountain West a nice dinner. If South-ern Nevada manages to crawl into the 21st century as anything more evolved than a place to feed some slot machines and catch a little Cirque, it’ll be thanks in large part to their ceaseless wonky prodding. Every so often, Brookings births another lap-crushing, tough-love report into the inboxes of scholars, policymakers and journalists, telling us Nevada needs to do better. Brookings says: Become a renewable energy hub, a global nexus for online gambling, a top-tier medical cluster serving the nation’s aging population. Something! These reports are the closest thing Brookings comes to shouting, “HEY NEVADA! HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO SAVE YOURSELF!”
Are we listening? I’m not sure, but maybe that’s just the fate of a think tank in a city not very given to thinking about the future. (I mean, look at how that whole unchecked-growth-as-economic-engine thing worked out.)
But Brookings isn’t all Deep Thoughts and Bold Visions — and that’s good. In their latest report, “Unify, Regionalize, Diversify: An Economic Development Agenda for Nevada,” more modest game lope among the woolly mammoth ideas, proposed tactics that are small but smart, doable but effective, nips and tucks to shape the Vegas economy into something that doesn’t resemble a drunk construction worker perched on a two-legged stool in front of a video poker console. One idea: culinary tourism. The study points out that one in six Americans who vacation make food a feature of the trip, whether it’s in the form of cooking classes, restaurant crawls or something else. And whaddya know:
Over the last 20 years, Vegas has just happened to string together a necklace of some of the world’s best eateries. That development has even more gravity when you consider that, in recent years, fewer tourists who visit Vegas are gambling — and those who do gamble are spending less. However, visitors are still spending solidly on food — about twice as much as they do on shopping. Couple this with a growing, informed suspicion there’s an untapped market of jet-setting foodies out there, and you have a recipe for a bit of economic diversification.
“Big-box gaming may just go the way of the big-box bookstore,” Mark Muro, Brookings Mountain West’s Washington D.C. research director, tells me. “Meanwhile, high-end culinary tourism represents a fresher, new line of engagement for the state economy. Fine dining is an industry that continues to grow, but it seems like it’s not as forcefully marketed as a nongaming reason to visit Las Vegas.”
Tom Kaplan, senior managing partner of the Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group, has been giving this some thought as well. He tells me, “In fine dining, we’ve got the largest concentration of skilled, recognized
chefs in the world that, to me, rival London, New York and L.A.” He envisions Vegas foodie tours that involve restaurant visits, cooking classes and even courses in how to throw a killer dinner party. The first step, he says, is getting the casinos, the convention authority, state tourism officials and chambers of commerce to come up with a plan.
But culinary tourism should be more than just an appetizing thought. So, when you turn to page 34 and drool over our picks for the best restaurants of 2011 — from suburban gems to crown jewels of the Strip — plan your next meal out with this bonus in mind: You’re doing your part for economic diversification, too.Nom!
Andrew Kiraly,Editor
CorreCtionAfter the publication of our August 2011 Top Doctors issue, information emerged about one of the physicians we profiled, gynecologic oncologist Dr. Nicola Spirtos. In January 2009, the Food and Drug Administration issued a warning letter to Dr. Spirtos after an inspection of his records of certain clinical trials, which is available for viewing at www.fda.gov/ICECI/EnforcementActions/WarningLetters/2009/ucm149280.htm. This fact did not come to light during the preparation of the Top Doctors list and profiles. After considering this information, Castle Connolly, the administrator of the Top Doctors survey, has decided to remove Spirtos from its website and regional listings.
Editor’s Note: Read an update to this correction here
Something to chew on
nextmonth
in Desert Companion
Got questions?
We have
answers — in
our answers
issue
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34 22
11
Mediterranean sea bass with a ragout of ratatouille vegetables, basil oil and cherry tomato coulis
Photography Christopher Smith
on the cover
Our Neighborhood Restaurant of the Year’s pan-seared Tasmanian sea trout with braised cranberry beans, bacon and lemon confit
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Copyright©2011Simon®
Client: The Forum Shops At Caesars Job Name: 500-0587 Specs: 4 color/no Bleed Publication: Desert Companion Magazine ART PREPARED BY: nogginwerks® llc. / 6507 North Carrollton Ave / Indianapolis 46220
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS REGARDING THIS ART, PLEASE CALL 317-202-9863 MECHANICAL 10/19/11
160 SPECIALTY SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS INCLUDING BOA STEAKHOUSE, THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY, IL MULINO NEW YORK, JOE’S SEAFOOD, PRIME STEAK & STONE CRAB, LA SALSA CANTINA, MAX BRENNER, P.J. CLARKE’S, THE PALM • LAS VEGAS, PLANET HOLLYWOOD, SPAGO, SUSHI ROKU, TREVI ITALIAN RESTAURANT.
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contentsdesert companion magazine // desertcompanion.com
4 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
12.2011
features46Burger CityThe new official food of Las Vegas: the hamburger
50Back to basicsThe new restaurant rules: Keep it simple, fresh and friendly
34Restaurant awardsOur critics pick the best eating and drinking of 2011
11All Things to
All PeopleThe new old museum
18Fitness
Dance dance revolution By Kimberly Schaefer
22Books
Remembrance of wars past
By David McKee
26Community
Doing good in the neighborhood
By T.R. Witcher
55 Guide
From rock to theater to dance, your guide
to culture
64Last word
Casting lots By David Hart
Copyright©2011Simon®
Client: The Forum Shops At Caesars Job Name: 500-0587 Specs: 4 color/no Bleed Publication: Desert Companion Magazine ART PREPARED BY: nogginwerks® llc. / 6507 North Carrollton Ave / Indianapolis 46220
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS REGARDING THIS ART, PLEASE CALL 317-202-9863 MECHANICAL 10/19/11
160 SPECIALTY SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS INCLUDING BOA STEAKHOUSE, THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY, IL MULINO NEW YORK, JOE’S SEAFOOD, PRIME STEAK & STONE CRAB, LA SALSA CANTINA, MAX BRENNER, P.J. CLARKE’S, THE PALM • LAS VEGAS, PLANET HOLLYWOOD, SPAGO, SUSHI ROKU, TREVI ITALIAN RESTAURANT.
SHOPPING LINE® 702.893.4800 FORUMSHOPS.COM FACEBOOK.COM/FORUMSHOPS TWITTER.COM/THE_FORUM_SHOPSHOLIDAYS HOURS: OPEN 10 A.M. – 11 P.M. DAILY AND ‘TIL MIDNIGHT FRIDAYS AND SATURDAYS, DECEMBER 24 AND 25 AND NEW YEAR’S DAY. STORES CLOSE NEW YEAR’S EVE AT 6 P.M. RESTAURANTS WILL REMAIN OPEN.
Copyright©2011Simon®
Client: The Forum Shops At Caesars Job Name: 500-0587 Specs: 4 color/no Bleed Publication: Desert Companion Magazine ART PREPARED BY: nogginwerks® llc. / 6507 North Carrollton Ave / Indianapolis 46220
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS REGARDING THIS ART, PLEASE CALL 317-202-9863 MECHANICAL 10/19/11
160 SPECIALTY SHOPS AND RESTAURANTS INCLUDING BOA STEAKHOUSE, THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY, IL MULINO NEW YORK, JOE’S SEAFOOD, PRIME STEAK & STONE CRAB, LA SALSA CANTINA, MAX BRENNER, P.J. CLARKE’S, THE PALM • LAS VEGAS, PLANET HOLLYWOOD, SPAGO, SUSHI ROKU, TREVI ITALIAN RESTAURANT.
SHOPPING LINE® 702.893.4800 FORUMSHOPS.COM FACEBOOK.COM/FORUMSHOPS TWITTER.COM/THE_FORUM_SHOPSHOLIDAYS HOURS: OPEN 10 A.M. – 11 P.M. DAILY AND ‘TIL MIDNIGHT FRIDAYS AND SATURDAYS, DECEMBER 24 AND 25 AND NEW YEAR’S DAY. STORES CLOSE NEW YEAR’S EVE AT 6 P.M. RESTAURANTS WILL REMAIN OPEN.
6 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
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Editorial & artAndrew KirAly Editor
CHriSTOPHer SMiTH Art Director
advErtisingCHriSTine Kiely Corporate Support Manager
lAurA AlCArAz National Account Manager
SHArOn ClifTOn Senior Account Executive
Allen grAnT Senior Account Executive
elizAbeTH guernSeyAccount Executive
MArKuS VAn’T HulSenior Account Executive
MarkEting CATHerine KiMMarketing Manager
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onlinE dAnielle brAnTOn Web Administrator
sEnior staFFflOrenCe M.e. rOgerS President / General Manager
MelAnie CAnnOn Director of Development
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PHil burger Director of Broadcast Operations
contributing WritErsMaureen Adamo, Jim Begley, Cybele, Gigi Generaux, Alex-ia Gyorody, Julie Hession, Gil Lempert-Schwarz, Max Jacobson, Heidi Kyser, Al Mancini, David McKee, Brock Radke, Howard Riell, Kim-berly Schaefer, T.R. Witcher, John Witte, Misti Yang
contributing artistsAaron McKinney, Sabin Orr
To submit your organization’s event listings for the Desert Companion events guide, send complete information to [email protected]. Feedback and story ideas are always welcome, too.
Editorial: Andrew Kiraly, (702) 259-7856;[email protected]
Fax: (702) 258-5646
advErtising: Christine Kiely, (702) 259-7813; [email protected]
subscriptions: Chris Bitonti, (702) 259-7810;[email protected]
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Desert Companion is published 12 times a year by Nevada Public Radio, 1289 S. Torrey Pines Dr., Las Vegas, NV 89146. It is available by subscription at www.desertcompanion.com, or as part of Nevada Public Radio membership. It is also distrib-uted free of charge at select locations in the Las Vegas Valley. All photographs, artwork and ad designs printed are the sole property of Desert Companion and may not be duplicated or reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. The views of Desert Companion contributing writers are not necessarily the views of Desert Companion or Nevada Public Radio. Contact Chris Bitonti for back issues, which are avail-able for purchase for $7.95.
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Desert Companion is the premier city magazine that celebrates the pursuits, passions and aspirations of Southern Nevadans. With
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entertain. We spark dialogue, engage people and define the spirit of the Las Vegas Valley.
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Open at 10 a.m. daily. Located near the South Convention Center.
8 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
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jAn l. jOneS Caesars Entertainment Corporation
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lAMAr MArCHeSe, President Emeritus
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williAM j. “bill” nOOnAn, direCTOr eMeriTuS Boyd Gaming Corporation
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nEvada public radio coMMunitY advisorY boardMArK riCCiArdi, eSq. CHAirMAn Fisher & Phillips, LLP
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riCHArd i. dreiTzer Fox Rothschild LLP
Al gibeS Al Gibes Enterprises
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MArilyn gubler The Las Vegas Archive
KurTiS wAde jOHnSOn Absolute Auto Care
MegAn jOneS Friends for Harry Reid
edMÉe S. MArCeK College of Southern Nevada
SuSAn K. MOOre Lieutenant Governor’s Office
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riCHArd PlASTer Signature Homes
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d e s e r tco m pa n i o n .co m 11“Vegas! The Show” sings and dances entertainment history on “KNPR’s State of Nevada” at www.desertcompanion/hearmore
continued on pg. 12
d i n i n G
iDrinkYou know the fine-dining drill: The water’s served, the napkins are unfolded and then the waiter hands over the wine list — that unwieldy tome crawling with vine-yard names, grape-grow-ing regions and head-scratching phrases like “dusky hints of tobacco and burnt oak.”
That’s changing. Several fine dining restaurants in Las Vegas are going digital with the addition of iPads employing a sys-tem called SmartCellar. Developed by hospitality tech company Incentient, it aims to make choosing wine less intimidating for those of us who can’t re-member whether we like pinot noir or petite sirah.
“In the traditional way, if you had dinner with four friends, some-one gets elected to look
Learn about a quirky museum outside Beatty on “KNPR’s State of Nevada” at www.desertcompanion.com/hearmore{ Hear More }
N E W S
P E O P L E
P O L I T I C S
S H O P
H U M O R
TThere’s a shocking secret in the new Nevada State Museum. In the back — past the ichthyosaur fossil and the bighorn sheep and Comstock miners and railroad trucks, all those trusty icons of Silver State history — is … a shimmering pink wall stocked with elaborate showgirl cos-tumes? Yes. It’s deliciously gaudy, a wall of dyed feathers, bangles and sequins.
“People love this display,” says Curator of Collections Dennis McBride, who gazes up at it with something resembling pater-nal pride. “We wanted to make it glamor-ous and colorful, just like this piece of Las Vegas history.”
It’s also an apt metaphor for the new-ly opened Nevada State Museum in the Springs Preserve: The new building is filled with flashy surprises, from clever interactive exhibits to polished video di-oramas. After officials finally got word late in the 2011 legislative session that the museum would, in fact, have enough money to pack, move and oper-ate, it opened Oct. 28 to nearly immediate buzz. Little wonder. It’s a quantum upgrade from its former digs at Lorenzi Park — where the museum had been since 1982 — a hidden location that could often elicit a shrug and a, “We have a history muse-um?” Now with roughly twice the space — 70,000 square feet — the museum can do nearly twice as much. “I’m most pleased with the breadth of the collection,” says McBride. “Now you can get a nice idea of the entire history of the state of Nevada, from prehistory to the present.”
But there’s an intangible benefit, too, one that Museum Director David Millman hits on — and one that museum employees refer to when they talk about how, well, how authentically museum-y it is.
“We’re able to make it more professional, more national in terms of our presentation,” says Mill-man. “Other cities have cultural institutions be-cause they have foundations and they’ve been
around for hundreds of years, but Las Vegas is such a new city, it’s been lacking in a tradition of donors creating cultural institutions. That’s what we tried to do here — to create something on that scale the community could be proud of.”
Two of the biggest upgrades are behind the scenes. More space means the museum has more room to collect, store and exhibit ar-tifacts from around the state — in other words, more cultural weight. The fact that the museum is now under the wing of the state Department of Tourism and Cultural Affairs — not the now-dissolved Cultural Affairs department — means the museum can take advantage of promotional muscle from the state office charged with luring visitors. They call the museum part of “cultural tourism,” but visiting the new museum is more akin to stepping into a time machine.
The Nevada State Museum is located inside Springs Preserve. Info: 486-5205 or www.muse-ums.nevadaculture.org — Andrew Kiraly
H i s t o r Y
everything old is new again
12.2011
The new Nevada State Museum is bigger, better and bolder.
Visit the Desert Companion website to
keep up with events and other DC news at
desertcompanion.com.
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12 d e s e r t co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
continued from page 11
through a bunch of pages of wine list, the sommelier comes over and you say, ‘I’ll have bin 454’ because you can’t pro-nounce the name of the wine, and that’s the end of that,” says Incentient CEO Pat Martucci. “Our system allows patrons to search for wine by every-thing from varietal to country to tasting notes — and then they can narrow it down to find something truly to their liking.” The device is currently deployed in four Las Vegas restaurants, Andre’s (Monte Carlo), Alizé (Palms), Jaleo (Cosmopolitan) and CUT (Palazzo). SmartCellar’s entry into the Vegas market adds to the app’s presence in 14 countries.
Does this mean sommeliers are getting corkscrewed by new tech? Not necessarily. Patrick Trundle, beverage director of Alizé and Andre’s, sees the glass as half full. “This is as useful a tool for the som-melier as it is for the guest,” Trundle says. “The wine list we had was a big, intimidating, 45-page book of pretty small type with a thousand differ-ent labels. On the other hand, SmartCellar is fun. It makes you want to play with it and engages everyone in choosing the wine.” And that play has serious impact. Martucci says some of his restaurant clients see up to a 25 percent boost in gross wine sales after intro-ducing SmartCellar. The only thing missing? An app that dispenses samples. — A.K.
If only the Victorians could see us now. Not only do ladies no longer smile behind napkins, but before the meal is even over, people have checked in, Tweeted and reviewed the place on Yelp via their ever-handy smart phones. But that doesn’t mean dining etiquette is dead — just forgotten. For-tunately, local experts are more than happy to dish advice on how to enjoy yourself — without making a fool of yourself.
How do I get my waiter’s attention? Garnering the attention of a busy server can be tricky. But Matt Dickerson, regional operations manager for Las Vegas and partner at Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill, says it’s not that hard. “Waiters know their sections and where the diners are at in their meal. So if you just look them directly in the eyes, smile and nod, that should be sufficient in getting as-sistance.”
Can’t I just send this quick text message? No. Alain Alpe, general manager of Guy Savoy, strong-ly discourages using electronic devices at the table. “This is very rude. It is like when you go to the movies and they ask you to put it on silent. It is the same at the restaurant. It is more a question of respect. It could be a little bistro or a high-end place, either way it is not right.”
How much alcohol is too much? “There are no appropriate number of drinks to order on a date, family dinner or business dinner,” says Florozeen Rand Gray, director at the Protocol Etiquette School Nevada. “But remember that you are being judged by those in your presence, and with our DUI laws at .08, I would suggest that you have no more than two glasses of wine, one before dinner and one with dinner. Save the nightcap for when you are safely at home.”
My entrée is underdone. How do I send it back? Dickerson says don’t hesitate when it comes to sending a sub-par dish back to the kitchen. “If they want to send something back because it’s not to their liking, don’t feel bad about it, ever. The worst thing they can do is wait until the end of the meal and then complain about what they had. What they need to do is send it back right away so that we can fix it right away. Send it back in the beginning, not toward the end (of the meal).”
Who’s paying? Alpe, Dickerson and Gray agree that whoever initiated the meal should settle the bill. Gray warns, “Never make the mistake of taking a business client out to dinner and the wait staff presents him/her with the bill. You might as well go to your computer address book and scroll, select and delete that client’s name — because you just lost a client.” — Alexia Gyorody
c U L t U r e
Discretion advisedexperts weigh in on the most neglected dining utensil: etiquette
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“ Now, every once in a while, I’ll have a quesadilla.”imagine being told you could no longer eat your mother’s cooking. That’s what it was like for Reynaldo Robledo when his personal trainer told
him he had to swear off Roberto’s Taco Shop. an edict served with a side of irony: It happens to be the Mexican restaurant chain his parents
started in San Diego in 1964. The trainer, Real Results Fitness owner Paul Rosenberg, had good reason to bar Robledo. His 46-year-old client
was obese and on eight different medications for diabetes, high cholesterol and coronary artery disease — thanks largely to the lard in Roberto’s
rich, traditional dishes. Having worked in the family business since age 12, Robledo grew up eating Roberto’s. Now owner of the franchise, he’s
in at least one of the 43 Southern Nevada locations every day. robledo knew he would never give it up. Turns out, he didn’t have to; his big-
gest problem was portion control. “I would sit down to a meal and eat a dozen tortillas,” he recalls. “I’d eat a loaf of bread in two days. I’d order
a large pizza and 2-liter bottle of Coke and finish it by myself.” Robledo made huge strides simply by eating less, and replacing some fattening
dishes with fruit and leaner meats. and then there are the strides on the treadmill. Early on, Rosenberg realized he was dealing with someone
who needed extra motivation. “Rey had never exercised before,” the trainer says. “We did cardiovascular work where I would stand by him on the
treadmill the whole time, just so I could get him accustomed to it.” Now, Robledo spends 12 solitary hours on the treadmill per week. It’s paid off.
He’s shrunk from 343 to 212 pounds. He’s gone from 49.3 percent body fat to 19.5 percent. “I love the fact that I went from a size 48 pants to a
36,” Robledo says. But the real accomplishment is inside. He’s now off all medications, disease-free. His blood-sugar level has dropped from the
700s to the 70s — a rare feat, according to Joyce Molaskovitz, director of health and wellness services at Desert Springs Hospital. “Diabetes is a
chronic illness,” she says. “If you don’t take care of it, you can’t get better.” Unlike those with type 1 diabetes (whose bodies don’t make insulin),
people with type 2 have some choice in the matter. don’t get him wrong. robledo’s still a loyal roberto’s customer. “I still eat at Roberto’s — I
like to eat there. I cut down on lard, maybe 95 percent of it. I don’t eat fried tacos anymore. I don’t eat refried beans.” He’s just a more conscious
customer. “Now, every once in a while, I’ll have a quesadilla ... I really love chicken. I have chicken every single day now.” — Heidi Kyser
PorTraiT By ChriStopher SMith
reynaldo robledo loves food as much as ever — now just
in moderation.
P E O P L E
14 d e s e r t co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
Las Vegas is known for its diverse entertainment options, but did you know
Las Vegas also has a growing Arts community? The Caesars Foundation
supports many of these performing arts programs including the Nevada Ballet
Theatre, The Smith Center for the Performing Arts and the LasVegas Philharmonic.
These organizations depend on support like ours to maintain
programs that benefit and strengthen our community. Find out
how you can help by visiting www.nevadaballet.com,
www.thesmithcenter.com and www.lvphil.com.
CELEBRATING THE ARTS
The will to do wonders®
The will to do wonders®
®
®
Walls 360 makes art for walls, but the designs are
anything but flat.
MMost toy stores are stressful, ironically enough: multiple electronic gadgets whizzing near the door, lighting so bright it feels positively confessional, and a sales staff as uninterested in helping as the atmo-sphere is uninviting. Kettlemuck’s in Henderson is noticeably different. Upon entering, you’re greeted by jungle sounds, like falling water and chirping birds, which have the effect of soothing even the most harried soul. The lights are normal. The atmo-sphere, serene. It all feels very The Nature Company circa 1994, or like a low-key F.A.O. Schwartz.
I even found myself using my very best “inside voice” when talking to owner David Stefaniak, pos-sibly the nicest toy store proprietor I’ve ever met. With his wife, Carolyn, and the help of their three children, Colette, 14, Olivia, 12, and Noah, 10, the Stefaniaks opened Kettlemuck’s a year ago with this mantra: “Imagination only is required to power any of our toys.”
In other words, none of the toys is battery-oper-ated, so customers are left to create their own sce-narios, solve their own puzzles, and dream, well,
the impossible dream in this increasingly electronic world: playtime built entirely around creativity, not pre-determined constructs, licensed products or screen time. Because the business is family-owned, the Stefaniaks are personally invested in everything they sell. In fact, nothing hits the sales floor before it’s been tested by the family at home. (Tough job.)
Kettlemuck’s — so named for a weird elf who lives along the wall of a giant sand box in the center of the store — carries puzzles by niche brands, play sets made from recycled materials, fair-trade homemade instruments from around the globe, lifelike stuffed toys, and Schleich’s legendary collectable figurines, manufactured in Germany since the 1950s. Five dol-lars gets your child entry into The Great White Sand Dunes (actually filled with 4,000 pounds of beads made from recycled milk jugs), a small bag, and the chance to dig for toys. Whatever fits in the bag is theirs to keep. (I so wanted to dig.)
(Kettlemuck’s Toy Shoppe , 10895 Eastern Avenue #120, 776-8349, www.kettlemuckstoyshoppe.com) — Gigi Generaux
o f f t H e s H e L f
Playtime, unplugged
n e w a n d n o t a B L e
Getting baked
there’s nothing like get-
ting into the holiday spirits
— giving, receiving and
drinking them. But what
about livening up the nosh
served with your favorite
varietal? enter CookieZen,
which sent us sweet and
savory rounds for wine
pairing. Could they do bet-
ter than tiny hot dogs on
sticks?
these gourmet bakers
are savvy party people.
the all-natural recipes use
kosher salt and less sugar,
and the cookies gained de-
licious depth when flavorful
ingredients were empha-
sized over sweetness. the
espresso chocolate peanut
butter cookie — enjoyed
with bold reds, of course
— was rich, but not overly
so. the sea salt chocolate
oatmeal and apricot sage
were great companions to
crisp whites. not a wrong
combo in the box. (Cook-
ies & Corks. $7.95 for large
box, $3 small; tuto in Bella-
gio; elements in aria; www.
cookiesandcorks.com) —
Maureen Adamo
S H O P
In the 2000s, M.A.C. from Canada was the postmodern makeup to own for those divas desirous of magenta eye shadow, taupe lipstick, and the kind of glitter liner that says “Ashanti trendy” not “Hannah Montana tacky.” In this decade, that brand is Inglot, a European company which offers high-impact pigments ranging from innocent pink to shocking
chartreuse, with names so mini-malist that they’re numbers. M.A.C. revolutionized the makeup indus-try by offering mix-and-match palettes for eye shadow in the late 2000s. Inglot took that concept a step further by offering mix-and-match palettes for everything, from blush, to lipstick, to concealer. Called “The Freedom System,” the name sounds like yellow press
propaganda, but actually means the convenience of being able to carry your entire, custom-designed maquillage ensemble with you at all times — very handy for late evenings out or travel abroad. That, plus the line’s knockout array of faux eyelashes, in everything from spikes to fans to feathers. So go glut on your Inglot and call us when you’re done. — G.G.
Mix-and-Match Makeup
inGLot AT THE FoRUM SHoPS AT CAESARS, ToWN SqUARE AND INSIDE MACy’S AT FASHIoN SHoW MALL, WWW.INgLoTCoSMETICS.CoM
t H e B r o w s e r
16 d e s e r t co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
Batteries not required: The low-tech, high-fun world of Kettlemuck’s
AT THE FoRUM SHoPS AT CAESARS, ToWN SqUARE AND INSIDE MA-
Cy’S AT FASHIoN SHoW MALL, WWW.INgLoTCoSMETICS.CoM
PHoToGraPHy By ChriStopher SMith
AT THE FoRUM SHoPS AT CAESARS, ToWN SqUARE AND INSIDE MA-
Cy’S AT FASHIoN SHoW MALL, WWW.INgLoTCoSMETICS.CoM
18 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
fitness
MMany of us have tried so many workouts that we aren’t fatigued just from the work-outs — we’re exhausted by the workout op-tions. We’ve tried to Zumba, spin, kickbox and Jazzercise our way to better health. We’ve sweated it out in Bikram yoga, tightened our cores in Pilates. What’s next? Ballet?
Actually, yes. The latest fitness phenome-non to hit Las Vegas is Pure Barre, a technique that combines elements of ballet, Pilates and weight training. The method claims that it can help you to achieve the coveted dancer’s body — a sleek, slender silhouette. No worries about
bulky muscles as a result of this workout. In-stead, the 55-minute sessions at Pure Barre are designed to sculpt lean thighs, toned arms and firm, flat abs.
Created 10 years ago by dancer and cho-reographer Carrie Rezabek Dorr, Pure Barre opened in Summerlin over a year ago and of-fers classes seven days a week. Owner of the local studio Lauren O’Nan moved here to open the first Pure Barre location in Las Vegas.
“I got into Pure Barre through a friend. I thought, ‘I love this technique. I love what it’s doing for my body. I love being with women,’”
she says. Her experience led her to venture west to what she describes as “an untapped market” to open her own business.
Don’t know a pirouette from a pas de deux? Doesn’t matter. Pure Barre, despite incorpo-rating balletic elements, aims to be accessible to non-dancers and exercise newbies alike.
“The best thing about Pure Barre is that you’re working at your own level,” says O’Nan. “It doesn’t matter if you’ve been working out for the past five years or if you haven’t worked out in five years. It’s set up to be a personalized workout in a group setting.”
Lean, mean and prettyThe latest fitness trend Pure Barre goes for graceful strength, not frenzied weight loss
by kimberly schaefer
Dance dance revolution: Pure Barre practicioners
make a move.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Christopher smith
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20 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
BarreDforlifeNevertheless, don’t expect an easy first foray. It is a challenging regimen designed to target the problem areas that plague most women: hips, thighs, butt and abdomen. You’ll be holding onto that barre for dear life as you attempt to squeeze tiny muscles you never knew you had.
Small classes allow instructors to interact with students individually. After demonstrat-ing the exercise, teachers circulate through the studio, offering hands-on corrections to ensure students are employing proper form and exercising the right muscles.
“It’s very similar to a Pilates-type class, but it’s faster and more upbeat,” says O’Nan. And the music that fills the room during classes isn’t what you might expect in a ballet studio. There’s no pianist in the corner tickling away at some Tchaikovsky. Instead, up-tempo tunes pump from an iPod to keep people on their toes and motivated to keep moving. Expect a rou-tine that targets very specific muscle groups along with heart-pumping, calorie-burning cardio. Don’t expect a bouncing, gyrating Jane Fonda aerobics class, but do expect to feel that oft-discussed “burn.”
Each class follows a similar format, in-cluding a warm up, stretching, thigh exer-cises, seat exercises, core exercises and a cool-down, but exercises change from class to class to avoid the development of dreaded “muscle memory.” And the instructors’ resu-més certainly don’t hurt. One performs in Le Rêve and one with Nevada Ballet Theatre; other instructors boast strong fitness back-grounds.
Because of the intensity of the Pure Barre method, achieving quick results is actually a realistic expectation. The program also offers a special program for recent mothers, aptly named The Baby Bounce Back. O’Nan says one new mom lost a total of six inches and 30 pounds in three months.
With regular attendance (three to four classes per week), most people start to see re-sults after the first 10 classes. Student Patricia Ochal began taking classes in June.
“When I turned 40, I put on 10 pounds. I tried everything — nothing was working. I started to come here, and I try to average 6 days a week,” Ochal says. In just less than a month, Ochal says she lost 10 pounds with-out making any other alteration to her rou-tine or diet. She says, “My clothes fit loosely now, and I feel muscle all over. I feel strong. I feel great.”
For more information, visit www.purebarre.com.
fitness
Tiny dancer movesThree Pure Barre-style exercises you can try — without installing a barre in your living room
ParallelThis exercise is designed to lengthen and tighten the front of your thighs. Here you can substitute a sturdy kitchen chair for the barre.stanDfaCingtheBaCk of the chair with feet
and knees together. Squeeze your inner thighs
together as tightly as possible and raise your
heels off the floor. You’ll be on the balls of your
feet. Lower your seat and create a soft bend in
your knees. Squeeze your muscles (thighs and
seat) for 30 seconds. Pulse up and down for
30 seconds. Keep in mind that the movements
should be very small — up one inch, down one
inch. Repeat 3 times. If you can.
CurlThe curl flattens your abdominal muscles, everyone’s favorite body part.lieDownonthefloor(this is the easy
part). Raise your legs off the floor and point
your feet toward the ceiling. Squeeze your
legs together as tightly as you can. Place
your hands behind your head and raise
your head, neck and shoulders off the floor.
Squeeze your abdominal muscles—imagine
your navel sinking through your back. Pulse
your abdominal muscles for 30 seconds.
Your lower body should contract toward
your head. Your legs will move slightly, but the movement should not come from your leg
muscles; the movement should be created by the tightening of your lower abs.
Follow this by pulsing your upper body and lower body at the same time for 30 more
seconds. Focus the work in your core muscles; don’t pull with your arms or legs. Imagine
yourself curling like a leaf. If you’re up for an “advanced” variation, follow up by straightening
your arms — your hands should be on the outside of your thighs. Pulse for 15 seconds. — K.S.
PretzelThis “muffin-top blaster” targets the side of your seat, hips and love handles. sitonthefloorwith your right knee bent
directly in front of your right hip and your lower
leg pointing out at a right angle. Bend your left
knee behind your left hip, and keep both legs
resting on the floor. Place both hands on your
right thigh and keep your torso facing forward.
This step will be imperceptible to anyone
but you: Squeeze your left hip and glute for 30
seconds. You’ll feel this up through your hip
and into your left side. If you can, lift your left
ankle off the floor and pulse for an additional 30
seconds. Repeat on your right side and envision
yourself shimmying into your skinny jeans.
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books
MMaybe it’s the former deputy sheriff in him, but College of Southern Nevada profes-sor of English H. Lee Barnes regards an inter-viewer with the basilisk gaze of a cop who’s just pulled you over for speeding. Despite be-ing 45 years removed from his tour of duty in Vietnam, Barnes still looks the part of the lean, rugged Green Beret he once was.
Without really knowing why, he tried out for the elite unit, made the cut and first saw action during the Dominican Republic’s 1965 civil war, including some clandestine, CIA-run sabotage. Unsatisfied by that tropical “po-lice action” and by stateside military routine, Barnes volunteered for duty in Vietnam, arriv-ing there in early 1966.
Assigned to Tra Bong, a forward position near the Laotian border, Barnes’ first mission could easily have been his last. Geared up for a reconnaissance, Barnes was told to stand down; the senior medic would go instead. Four Americans and most of their 70-man Vietnam-ese cohort would soon afterward be massa-cred in what became known as the Lost Patrol.
The mystery of the Lost Patrol’s fate haunts the tour of duty chronicled in Barnes’ new memoir, “When We Walked above the Clouds” (University of Nebraska Press, $29.95). The author has written of Vietnam before in the fiction anthology “Gunning for Ho” (2000). Until now, he’s balked at putting his actual experiences on paper. The urging of his com-rades in arms and the ravages of time finally spurred Barnes to action.
“The final reason I decided to write it was Pablo, one of my teammates, developed liver cancer. It was the idea of their mortality as much as anything” that impelled him, Barnes explains. “When they end, the story itself ends.”
But he’s glad he waited. Passing time gave him the perspective necessary to shape his experiences into a narrative. “The most im-portant event in the whole story occurs early on in my experience in ’Nam. Everything after (the Lost Patrol) seems almost anticlimactic. Therefore I had to come up with a range of events that were compelling enough to keep people on the page and still tell the story as truthfully as possible.”
Years of writing police reports prepared him for “creating scenes, as opposed to tell-ing” readers his experiences. This feat was ac-complished primarily from memory. “If you’ve ever been in combat, you remember an awful lot. It doesn’t go away,” he explains. “I could have said, ‘This is what happened,’ but it was better to put myself next to Norwood on the
day Jacobson’s body came in” from the Lost Patrol. “When you’re a cop, it’s all about tell-ing and not showing … concrete detail is im-portant because you’re going to get cross-ex-amined about something.”
There’s nothing like a recon patrol to sharpen the senses, it seems. “You’re reduced to perhaps the same kind of human being man
Remembrance of wars pastH. Lee Barnes’ Vietnam war memoir captures the heightened reality of combat
by david mckee
H. Lee Barnes
THE LEGEND LIVES ON
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THE LEGEND LIVES ON
WRITTEN AND DIRECTED BY JAMIE KING
MANDALAY BAY EVENTS CENTER, LAS VEGAS DECEMBER 3 – 27, 2011
Tickets starting at $50*On sale now, cirquedusoleil.com
VENUE OFFICIAL SPONSOR
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*Offer valid for select performances December 3-27. Subject to availability. Prices do not include tax and fees. Valid on select seating areas.
Cannot be combined with any other offer. Management reserves all rights. Some restrictions apply.
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books
was long before we became civilized,” Barnes says. “You revert to intuitive patterns that people probably followed in order to survive when they were surrounded by a very hostile world. I imagine that, despite all the technol-ogy that soldiers have available to them today, they still have to revert to that” heightened state of consciousness.
“I tried to make every chapter as self-con-tained as possible,” he continues, “so that each seemed more like a short story or had resolu-tion about that particular moment, but didn’t resolve the larger pictures along the way.” But even the enigma of the Lost Patrol can’t over-shadow a grim life-or-death choice Barnes makes on his final mission.
Subconsciously, he had been preparing for Green Beret duty through much of his mis-erable, nomadic childhood and adolescence. “We moved around an awful lot and I loved nothing more than getting away from people and deep into nature. The two times I ran away from home, I headed straight for the mountains with a bedroll,” he recalls. “So when I was with my combat-recon platoon in the mountains of Vietnam, I actually felt more comfortable than I did in the camp, where we were surrounded by barbed wire and had bunkers, machine-gun emplace-ments and mortar pits.”
Despite subsequent careers as a lawman, private detective, narcotics agent and casino dealer, “the only thing that is fully real in my life is Vietnam, because it was moment to mo-ment. The experience you have when you’re out with 12 Montagnards (an indigenous peo-ple of Vietnam) and another American, and there are no Vietcong around — or there may be a regiment around the next corner — makes you aware of your breath without being aware of it. You know that you’re alive in a very spe-cial way.” Compared to that, “what I do now is fiction. There’s a lot of pretense in life. Well, you can’t pretend in a place like Vietnam, in a combat situation.”
Being in combat, seeing death and grotesque mutilation, taught Barnes to quickly numb all emotions except anger and then channel his rage into survival. But he entertained no Ram-bo-like revenge fantasies.
“To this day, I’m no longer angry at the enemy that we faced. I probably have more in common with the enemy than sitting here with you, despite the fact that we share be-ing writers and live in the same city, because (the enemy and I) have a common experience as soldiers in Vietnam during a time of crisis. They were answering that master, Duty. It’s a cruel, hard master.”
D e s e r tCo m pa n i o n .Co m 25
An excerpt from H. Lee Barnes’ “When We Walked Above the Clouds”
I was selected. I don’t know who made the decision, the captain or Brownie. No matter, someone decided I needed a little cross-training in first aid, and not just first aid, but treating the ill. And Norwood was picked to train me to help on sick call.
We stood under the canopy of an open tent. As a line of malingerers waited in the sun, he showed me first how to start a drip line, which he said I wouldn’t be doing that day, but should know how to do nonethe-less. He picked up a syringe from a tray and demonstrated injecting sterile water through the rubber diaphragm into a bottle of powder. He shook the mixture and drew it out with the same syringe. I took a turn at it, aspirated properly, flicked the syringe, and pressed the air out with the plunger as he had. He seemed satisfied.
He told me to pay attention to where he wiped the alcohol swab and warned me about the sciatic nerve. I watched as he gave the first man in line a shot in the buttocks. For what, I didn’t know. The next sick man was mine. He stepped up. Norwood watched, as step by step, I administered the shot. Perfect. He didn’t feel a thing. I withdrew the needle and wiped the injection site with a swab. Norwood seemed proud, perhaps of my small accomplishment, but more likely of his success at teaching someone as thickheaded as I was.
One at a time, Norwood examined them, listened to ailments rendered through the interpreter. I stood by, a syringe at the ready. Between the two of us, we treated three more patients and gave two shots. I gained con-
fidence. Bring ’em on, I thought, your tired, your weary, your sick. Dr. Barnes at your ser-vice, the best medical help in all of ’Nam a step away. What’s troubling you? Too much boom boom? A little gonorrhea? Yes, we have a quick fix for that. Next patient please. Don’t be shy. We’re all professionals here. Top-grade.
Norwood sent the next striker my way with instructions to give him antibiotics for his clap. I prepped as instructed. The man dropped his trousers.
“Too much fucky?” I smiled.I swabbed the injection site and jabbed
him in the buttocks. Bull’s-eye, a perfect hit. But then his eyes promptly rolled up in their sockets, and he tilted forward, passed out. As he and I lifted the patient to a stretcher, Norwood, a bit testy, reminded me about the sciatic nerve. I shrugged. It wasn’t as if we’d get sued for malpractice.
The sound of mortars exploding boomed up the valley, accompanied by machine gun and small arms fire. In the dull middle ground between sleep and consciousness, I heard the sounds. Then blaked
Whitten shouted into the bunker for me to man my post. Since arriving I had rehearsed the drill in my mind over and over. I swung my feet onto the floor and slipped on my boots and buttoned my fatigue shirt, then grabbed my M-16, and entered the trench. It was rain-ing and I’d forgotten my poncho and steel pot. I went back for them.
Jacobsen, in T-shirt and trousers, was setting the bipod on the mortar. An outgoing mortar round exploded near the river. Strikers throughout the camp fired their weapons, scoring the sky with tracers. Unperturbed by the weather and other events, Jake said was going to instill some fire discipline in them. Then he said, “Let’s put a little light on the subject.”
Unhurried, the captain, occupied in thought, walked past the pit without speaking. I grabbed an illumination round out of the magazine. He cut increments by guess and set the delay. I pulled out another round and wait-ed. He said one was hanging and dropped it in the tube. Seconds later a blazing light burned a hole in the black sky. I handed him the next round and climbed atop the parapet to see the flare hanging over the swollen river, too far out. I told him and he adjusted the angle. I glanced the east at the PF outpost at the very instant a mortar round exploded inside the post. Fox slogged by and shouted for us not to
waste any flares. JV followed him. I hopped back into the pit.
With nothing for us to do but wait, Jake started shivering. He said he’d be right back. A few minutes passed before he returned wear-ing a poncho and stood above on the parapet. I climbed up beside him. Though a deadly ordeal at the other end, as seen through the misty night sky the battle was vague and dreamlike. Tracers from small-arms and automatic fire crisscrossed the sky. Trip flares lit up the perimeter as sappers probed the defenses to see how much fight the defenders had in them. Mortar rounds exploded inside the defenses, first the flash, then a delayed bang, like the sound and image out of sync on a movie screen. By then sappers had pen-etrated the outer wire. A flare flashed, then another. A recoilless rifle barked its unmistak-able sound.
On his hurried way to the team house Cam slowed long enough to say we would get no air support. The whole of I-Corps was boxed in. Something too obvious to be said.
Then the far hillside went black and silent. Norwood shook his head and walked away. Jake and I returned to the pit and hunkered down while inside the team house the captain, Lt. Quang, Lt. Bussy, Fox and JV were decid-ing how our team and the Vietnamese would react.
Over the next hour the gruesome aftermath was telegraphed up the valley, executions announced a single shot at a time, followed by a pause, then a shot, and so on, leaders first, then others who didn’t accept the chance to convert. Join or die, the politics of a gun to the head.
Mr. Whitten called out that he was coming into the pit. “Bloody wet,” he said. “The cheek of these Viet Cong.” He lit a cigarette, con-cealed it under his poncho, and blew smoke skyward. “Shame this happened the day of the captain’s party.” He took another drag off his cigarette. “I’m relievin’ you, Barnes. Your good captain wants you to be ready for the morning.”
Past midnight, now the day after Tet, I scrabbled about in the dark. Down the valley they’d killed unarmed men, their reason — because they could. It was a piece of Vietnam to take to bed and think about. I shed my pon-cho, hung my .45 in its holster on the frame of the mosquito net, then dried my rifle, slipped out of my boots and flopped down for a brief restless rest.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Christopher smith26 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
community
TThe Trinity Life Center church is one of the oldest churches in Las Vegas. It traces its roots back to Tenth Street downtown, and it has been in its current home, on St. Louis Av-enue, a few blocks west of Maryland Parkway, since the 1960s.
For years, this area was the heart of the city. Commercial Center opened in 1960. The swanky Las Vegas Country Club opened in 1967. The midcentury ranch homes nearby
represented fine contemporary living. It was a much smaller city then; fewer than 300,000 people lived in the entire county.
“Mayors and everybody lived around here,” says Pastor Vic Caruso, who grew up in the area. “It wasn’t the inner city, it was the city.”
Trinity, the largest Assembly of God church in town, was mainly an “old-money, white church,” says Caruso. The church ran a suc-cessful trio of schools that provided K-12 edu-
cation. And for a few decades, the church en-joyed its prosperity.
But Las Vegas was changing. By the ’80s and ’90s, those affluent central city residents were decamping for the suburbs. By the time lead Pastor Randy Greer came to Trinity in 1990, from Los Angeles, the neighborhood was beginning a long-term demographic shift. As early as 1992, Greer was pushing to make the church more ethnically diverse. (The church is now home to a variety of eth-nic congregations that share space, including Spanish, Congolese, Filipino, Indonesian and Bulgarian.)
By 1997, he had a vision that Trinity was go-ing to radically remake itself, to start reaching out to a community that was no longer wealthy and no longer only white. He just didn’t know what that change was going to look like.
It took almost 10 years for Greer’s vision to manifest itself in the creation of the City Impact Center, a large — and growing — col-lection of social service programs the church runs from the five-acre campus of land it owns between St. Louis and Sahara avenues. The center opened just as the recession was get-ting its teeth into Las Vegas, and it has served thousands of people since.
It almost didn’t happen.There was a moment, 10 years ago or so,
when it looked like the change Greer imagined might be to simply follow Trinity’s departing churchgoers out to the ’burbs.
“If we’re going to keep doing business the way we do, we have to be in the suburbs,”
Good in the neighborhoodWhat does the City Impact Center do? What doesn’t it do? Meet the scrappy cluster of do-gooders that make up the emerging new model for social service
by t.r. witcher
Fromlefttoright: The Trin-ity Life Center is deceptively plain; the “pay it forward” wall at the center; Pas-tors Randy Greer and Vic Caruso
D e s e r tCo m pa n i o n .Co m 27
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Greer says, recalling the church’s thinking a decade ago. In 2000, the church bid to purchase a closing school in the northwest valley. After losing to another bidder, the board, under Greer’s leadership, made a mo-mentous decision. The grass wasn’t greener in Summerlin, they decided. Trinity was go-ing to stay put in the neighborhood it had grown up in.
“We felt that’s what we were supposed to do. We weren’t going to be doing business as usual.”
The financial stakes of that decision were big. “The real estate was so valuable,” Caruso adds. “We could have cashed out for a lot of money and left. But we decided to stay where we were. ... If somebody doesn’t stay here, what happens to the people? What happens to the neighborhood?”
The neighborhood is starting to find out. Today, the center is a bustling matrix of ser-vice groups, nonprofits and charities that do everything from feed the poor to immunize kids. The church that had once considered splitting for the ’burbs has instead become a nucleus for public service, one whose message of selflessness resonates with — and inspires — the center’s numerous tenants.
One of City Impact Center’s providers is a medical clinic called Operation H.O.P.E. Its founder, physician Elliot Shin, provides medi-cal services for free — but asks that patients pay forward their care by doing good deeds in the community.
“When I heard the church history, I knew this was the right church to work with,” says Shin. “I was looking for a church that prac-ticed what it preached. We would not be able to do what we do without their support and generosity. When I met with Pastor Vic, he just immediately embraced us.”
The small clinic doesn’t even have a phone, but its wall is lined with handwritten letters of patients who have paid it forward. The stories range from people saving stray cats to running errands for the sick and elderly to feeding the homeless in the park. Shin says his clinic has provided $120,000 worth of service. “If our patients really did what we ask in the commu-nity, it’s three times that amount.”
thrivingamiDmoDestyThe neighborhood around the church is certainly no ghetto; it is a modest, somewhat scruffy working-class neighbor-
28 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
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hood. But it has seen better days. Commer-cial Center, arguably, no longer deserves the name, and plenty of rough-looking apartment buildings line the small streets between Para-dise Road and Commercial Center.
Over the last decade, the church con-tinued to thrive, but its congregation has dwindled; the church eventually closed its high school and middle school and at the same time launched the City Impact Cen-ter. Caruso became its point man. A genial Italian-American who looks like he just came from a warm beach somewhere, Ca-ruso knew the neighborhood well. Before he went into the ministry in the mid-’80s, he spent years as a cook at the Sahara and a bellman at the Flamingo. Trinity is the only church he’s known.
He leads me on a tour of the center, spread out over several nondescript buildings be-tween St. Louis and Sahara. The church owns a 12-unit apartment building for low-income seniors. Across the street, in a drab one-story store front, the center also operates a health clinic for kids, which provides checkups and immunizations for kids up to age 18, including undocumented children. The clinic saw 8,000 kids last year. Next door to the clinic, there is the Calvary Downtown Outreach Program, a food pantry open Wednesdays and Thursdays that serves some 100 families a week. (It only provides food for people who live in zip codes
close to the church.) Calvary also feeds the homeless on Saturdays, and the church min-isters to them.
In the same building as the food pantry — at the other end of a large first-floor open space — is Shin’s medical clinic. At the far end of the campus, directly facing Sahara, is the after-school program. Housed in Trinity’s old two-story high school, the program was started by Greer’s daughter, Brandie Watson, who used to pick up neighborhood kids after school in a van and drive them to the center. The program is divided into two sections, for young kids and for teens and it serves more than 100 kids, providing a gymnasium, a pool, a weight room, along with movies, arts and crafts activities, af-ternoon meals and study space.
DogooD—anDDoalotoFitGreer and Caruso thought they were go-ing to help the needy, and they do, but it’s not just the homeless or poor. It’s also the guy who lost his job, lost the nice house, and has seen his savings and health insurance dry up.
“The average family is two paychecks away from the curb,” says Caruso. “It looked like the worst time to ever do this. It was the best time to do it. The services are needed now more than ever.”
With the exception of the after school pro-gram, the church didn’t so much start these
The center’s gym hosts a back-to-school program.
D e s e r tCo m pa n i o n .Co m 29
programs as import them — finding space on its campus for other social service providers that had lost their old spaces in the recession.
Faith-based service groups have always been the stopgap “when the government couldn’t or wouldn’t help,” says Ramona Denby-Brinson, a senior research scholar at UNLV’s Lincy Foundation. “Not so much because they have the deep pockets, but because of their compas-sion, and they have flexibility around eligibil-ity.” In other words, less bureaucracy.
But the City Impact Center is part of a movement that is likely to grow in the social services world — wherein formerly indepen-dent providers collaborate or team up to lever-age their resources and make delivery of ser-vices easier for clients. In other words, instead of getting a check-up and picking up food from opposite ends of town, you can do both here. “It’s more humane for groups to work togeth-er,” Denby-Brinson says. “Partnerships will be the way we continue to go. It’s a better way to serve people.”
The trend will also continue because funders want to see service providers of-
fer longer-term success plans. “It’s not just quantity and quality, it’s durability,” says Tom Chase, CEO of Nevada Health Partners. “The dollars are certainly tighter.”
There is an ad-hoc feeling to the center. You can drive by it and not have any idea that you were in any kind of coherent social aid center, the way you do when you visit, say, Catholic Charities’ campus north of downtown. Greer and Caruso are clearly still finding their way. But they’re doing so with giant hearts.
So are their providers. Midweek at the Helping Kids Clinic, there’s an unexpected
lull in the clients coming in; the clinic has al-ready seen 18 people today. In a 12-month span between 2010 and 2011, the clinic has seen 30,000 kids. One of them is 5-year-old Jhaimir Sims, who is in with his mother, Nashara, to pick up records for a recent vaccination shot he received at Helping Kids. Kids are usually vaccinated by the Southern Nevada Health District, but those shots can get expensive. Here, they’re free.
“It’s a very positive experience,” says Nashara. “When I needed his shot I didn’t have $35 to pay for his shots.”
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community
theFutureoFbenevolenCeThe church commissioned the UNLV School of Architecture to write a report that may serve as the opening act of a redevelop-ment of the site. It’s working with the Ne-vada Community Foundation to raise funds. There’s room on the campus for new con-struction — possibly more senior housing or even retail — as well as an expansion of ser-vices the center already provides. Meanwhile, the center is launching computer training classes, thanks to donations from Rent A Center and Cox Communications. And Greer talks excitedly about the prospect of moving the homeless all the way to home ownership with a suite of services.
Still, running the City Impact Center is ex-pensive. It takes $20,000 a month. In the last few years, the church has laid off 11 employ-ees, including four full-time pastors, to keep expenses down. The center is running largely on gifts and donations. (Caruso showed off a small construction job to install solar panels on top of a carport; funded with federal stimu-lus money, the church hopes the project puts a dent in electricity bills.)
But there’s a philosophical crossroads ahead as well. Trinity is in the process of separating itself from the City Impact Center by creating a new board. The move should make it easier for the center to at-tract donors and supporters, but it has raised an interesting internal question about how heavily religion should be stressed at the center.
Already, if you drive down Sahara, you’ll notice that “Trinity Life Center” has been scrubbed off the City Impact Center build-ing. A consultant to the church recommend-ed that Greer separate the church’s ministry work from its social service work, so as not to scare away potential donors or grantors. In other words, no preaching at the City Im-pact Center.
The irony for a church that has done so much to change its image — that has refused to take the easy way out when it comes to servicing the community — is that now it is trying to hold onto its core identity. Though he hates the word “religion,” Greer doesn’t want the City Impact Center to lose its es-sence — a place where people can come to know Jesus.
“We’ll help anyone who needs help,” he says. “But you can’t rip the heart out of what motivates us to do what we do.” Whatever form it takes in the future, the City Impact Center promises to continue to have plenty of just that — impact.
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35
D e s e r t c o m p a n i o n
15th annual
photography by Sabin Orr & ChriStOpher Smith
reStaurantreStaurantreStaurantawards
2 0 1 1
We bet you’ve got quite an appetite right about now. After all, 2011 was a year of hard work, hunkering down, and holding on beneath thundercloud
headlines about halting recovery and slow economic comeback. It was no less true in the valley’s restaurants. With scant splashy new arrivals on the dining scene — and some sad, surprising closures of some local mainstays — continued excellence under pressure was the dish du jour.
That means our Restaurant Awards panel — made up of respected dining critics Max Jacobson, Al Mancini and Brock Radke — had a tough job. But that’s good news. It means that even in dark times, Las Vegas continues to be a nexus of culinary talent that gives our critics migraines when it comes time to have to decide who’s the best.
Here are the fruits of their labor. Pull up a seat and dig in to our 15th Annual Restaurant Awards.
cocktail bar of the year
Vanguard Lounge516 Fremont St. | 868-7800, www.vanguardlv.com
The urban-arTsy Vanguard lounge emits
a frequency that welcomes those looking for a
laid-back experience that disguises how carefully
curated it is — an experience that confuses
plastic guitar drink-strapped tourists who’ve
strayed across las Vegas boulevard. it is the
one spot you cannot miss on what has become
Vegas’ essential bar crawl — the fremont east
entertainment District. there is something for
every drinker on this block, but all the best
cocktails are at Vanguard.
the space is narrow and big city-ish, there’s
loud music late at night and a mini-patio for
observing the creeping humanity of downtown.
there’s nothing pretentious about Vanguard
but the drinks are all class, sips that change with
seasons and never disappoint. bar manager
nathan Greene has been around since the joint
opened last fall, quietly perfecting sweet and
savory concoctions that balance with a rounded
selection of unique brews and boutique wines.
this team does classics like negronis and
daiquiris as well as any spot in town, and twists
up a few; for instance, Vanguard’s aviation uses
black tea-infused gin and subs a chinese five
spice citrus cordial for lemon juice. try not to
latch onto just one of the bar’s original creations,
like the broken neck, a honey-lemon-white
whiskey composition. Vanguard cocktails are
good as gold, so evaluate the opportunity cost of
choosing a favorite. — Brock Radke
D e s e r t c o m p a n i o n36
bartenDer of the year
Rebecca AhnertHaydenFleur by Hubert Keller Inside Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S., | 632-9400, www.mandalaybay.com/dining/signature-restaurants/fleur.aspx
While local mixologists have
spent the past several years re-
discovering “classic cocktails,”
rebecca ahnert hayden has
marched to her own drummer —
looking forward instead of back.
her bar at fleur, where she’s
designed many of the signature
cocktails, is the only one in town
to work with liquid nitrogen.
(bartenders use it to mix up
deliciously creamy frozen drinks
tableside in a cloud of sub-zero
smoke.) and specialties, available
frozen or traditionally, include the
sparkling peach blossom, a blood
orange margarita and the classic
fleurtini, made with Grey Goose,
pomegranate, sour apple and
prosecco.
“even though hubert (keller)
is fine dining, you need to take
into consideration that there are
people who are in las Vegas who
don’t care about classic cocktails —
they think they’re disgusting,” she
explains. “so i try to keep things
very approachable. and i like to do
bright, fun colors.”
in addition to mixing up great
drinks, ahnert hayden is one of
those classic bartenders who’s
also a great conversationalist;
perhaps that explains why she met
her husband while she was behind
the bar. she’s currently working
on a book that pairs her favorite
recipes with accompanying stories
from a career spent pouring
drinks. but she’s more than happy
to share some of those tales for
free with anyone sitting at her
bar. and trust me, she’s got some
good ones. — Al Mancini ph
ot
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ra
ph
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er
sm
ith
personal best
Chefs and foodies pick their 2011 faves
Jim Begley, dining critic for the Las Vegas Weekly,
David magazine
Most Thai restaurants in town serve
Americanized fare with diluted flavors. Not the case with newly opened
David Wong’s Pan Asian (2980 S. Durango Drive, 629-7464) where,
for my money, they’re serving the valley’s
best Thai food this side of Lotus of Siam. Just one bite of their pad
see yew, a street food favorite, and you’ll
understand. Typically, this wide noodle dish
isn’t wok-fried for long enough, resulting in
less caramelization and characteristic smokiness.
Who wants less? With David Wong’s rendition,
the noodles are the perfect combination of smoke and sweet — and
thoroughly addictive.
ethnic restaurant of the year
Forte4180 S. Rainbow Blvd. | 220-3876, www.barforte.com
ForTe doesn’T serve just a single type of ethnic cuisine. rather,
it’s an amalgamation of some of the most unique types of cooking
available in las Vegas. the sign on the door calls it a european
tapas restaurant — and certainly, there are plenty of traditional
spanish tapas on the menu. but bulgarian-born nina manchev has
also brought the recipes of her native country — as well as russia,
Georgia and croatia — to the west side of town. in addition, she’s
tapped her well-traveled father stephan to oversee the kitchen, to
assure they’re all prepared authentically.
the atmosphere is eclectic and hip. manchev is an artist, and her
own works adorn the dark walls. an eastern european music video
channel is usually on tV. and the crowd is a mix of expatriates and
Vegas foodies from all walks of life. (some might argue the décor lost
a touch of its charm when they replaced the original beat-up thrift
store furniture with new tables. but hey, the new ones don’t wobble.)
the menu is heavy on meats, sausages and dumplings. but
many of the dishes are surprisingly light and delicate, defying the
stereotype of eastern european cooking. the food is best enjoyed
family-style, at reasonable prices that allow large parties to sample
a little bit of everything. there are several standout dishes, but no
trip here is complete without adjarski khachapurri: a large bread boat
filled with bubbling cheese and a fried egg. and while there are some
great imported beers, don’t leave without sampling a few of the
homemade flavored vodkas and brandies. — A.M.
D e s e r t c o m p a n i o n . c o m 37
fooD trenD of the year
Small platessmall plaTe dining, an often
multicultural extrapolation on
the spanish tapas trend, has
rapidly eked out a home on the
strip, perhaps epitomized best
in the refashioning of hubert
keller’s brilliant fleur de lys
dining room into just fleur, an
upbeat space with a globally
inspired menu of delectable
micro-munches. it seems like
everyone’s gotten into the
act of making a meal out of
appetizers. José andrés has
two small plate emporiums at
the cosmopolitan, and even
Wynn made room for la cave,
an intimate wine and nosh bar.
the trend has been booming
in our neighborhoods, too,
crystallized when the original
Vegas tapas joint, firefly,
opened its ragingly popular
location in summerlin. but
slinging bacon-wrapped dates
isn’t the only way to small plate
success; worthy new ethnic
eateries such as nittaya’s (thai),
forte (eastern european) and
kyara (Japanese) are all riding
the wave. — B.R.
Kyara's beef tataki, a small plate wonder
Forte's adjarski khachapurri, a
bread boat filled with egg and
cheese
sommelier of the year
John BurkePrime inside Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S. | 693-8865, www.bellagio.com/prime
When you enter the stylish prime steakhouse by Jean-Georges
Vongerichten at bellagio, you might marvel at the way that brown
and light blue blend together seamlessly in the room, or the
lichtenstein tapestry on the back wall in the private room. this is the
domain of John burke, sommelier here for 13 years. in fact, he’s been
here since the place opened its doors to rave reviews back in 1998
— and it’s still going very strong, thanks in part to him. burke built
the wine list of this temple of great meat to match the foods served
here — all simple, strong dishes and, of course, steak. his tenacity
and dedication in creating this eclectic list was sparked by a simple
desire: to sell some great bottles of wine to go on the tables. indeed,
burke’s charisma and authority is such that he does not come to a
table and leave without diners ordering at least a couple bottles. it’s
no surprise, then, that prime had the biggest wine program in any
one single restaurant in the united states by 2001, generating more
than $6 million in revenue just in wine. this made burke the favorite
sommelier of movie stars, sports celebrities and moguls alike. early
on, he would personally handle the wine service for steve Wynn
when on the premises.
but he’s here for us, too. When you go to dinner at prime, you ask
for John burke, because you know he always has something special
for you. — Gil Lempert-Schwarz
Gil Lempert-Schwarz is a wine consultant and wine journalist based
in Las Vegas.
personal best
Chefs and foodies pick their 2011 faves
Misti Yang, Yelp Las Vegas Senior Community Manager
For me, it was the year of the banchan — the savory and spicy side
dishes that are the chips and salsa of Korean cuisine. I obsessed
over finding the best of these bottomless treats, dreaming of a bar where I could straddle a stool,
order a tall, gingery cocktail and get a multi-
colored lineup. My refuge became Mr. Tofu (3889 Spring Mountain Road, 388-7733). I feel guilty for not knowing
their names: crisp radish kimchi, slightly sweet
peppers, soy sauce-simmered cucumbers, lightly wilted spinach
with peanuts. People say they’re better in L.A., but
when they hit the table at Mr. Tofu, my heart
beats a little faster. It’s like an ever-changing
candy buffet.
D e s e r t c o m p a n i o n38
"Dealicious" meal of the year
Ramen monta 5030 Spring Mountain Road #6, 367-4600, www.montaramen.com
The besT soul food in las
Vegas is Japanese. i hope that’s
not offensive or blasphemous.
no disrespect to your favorite
fried chicken joint. it’s just
that “soulful” is the perfect
descriptor for a bowl of noodles
so simple yet so sophisticated,
flavors so clean and precise, a
dish simultaneously exotic and
reassuringly homey. i never
planned to attach such emotion
to lunch, but i believe we are all
in love with the ramen at monta
Japanese noodle house.
take your seat at the bar in
this tiny chinatown treasure.
you can choose from pork bone
(tonkotsu), chicken-vegetable
(shoyu) or miso broth as the
perfect base for a mountainous
portion of fresh, hand-pulled
noodles and two slices of
buttery chashu (roasted pork).
impossibly, it’s about $7. splurge
if you must, and drop a couple
more bucks for toppings such
as extra chashu, hard-boiled
egg, sweet corn, tangy kimchi or
wonderfully bitter mustard leaf.
simple ingredients for a simple
soup, but it’s sublime eating, with
so much soul. — B.R.
Monta's ramen with hand-pulled
noodles and buttery roasted pork
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pastry chef of the year
Megan Romanoaureole Inside Mandalay Bay, 3950 Las Vegas Blvd. S., | 632-9400, www.aureolelv.com
in a restaurant known to tourists for
gymnastic “wine angels,” beautiful swans
and charlie palmer’s classic cuisine, megan
romano has quietly earned a reputation
among local foodies as one of america’s best
pastry chefs. and while she’s worked faithfully
for palmer since aureole opened in 1999, she’s
also used that reputation to build a small
empire that includes her own line of desserts
and a cookbook, “it’s a sweet life.” in fact, she
parted company with aureole last month to
continue building her empire — this time in the
form of a new local pastry shop she plans to
open in January. there, she's sure to maintain
her commitment to treating dessert as an
integrated and essential part of every meal.
“i don’t want it to be such a break from
the appetizer and entrée,” romano explains.
“there’s really no reason someone should say
‘no’ to dessert.”
aureole's offerings include classics such as
crème brûlée, decadent bon-bons and luscious
fruit dishes. Does romano have a favorite?
“i work with a lot of chocolate lately,” she
says. “and i love that because it’s just a neat
medium. it’s pretty intense. so we play around
with a lot of layers of chocolate — with teas
and citrus. but honestly, what i like to eat is
clean, crisp, clear flavors that aren’t muddied.”
regardless of what style dessert you order,
romano says she’s always hoping for the same
result. “my best compliment is ‘yum!’ that’s
what i want you to say.” — A.M.
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Megan Romano's signature baklava with savory pesto and a Concord grape sorbet
40 d e s e r T co m pa n i o n D EC E M B E R 2 01 1
FriendliesT mom & pop JoinT oF The year: Frank & Fina’s cocina. It’s a testament to the warmth of Frank & Fina’s Cocina that when it closed its original, more central location on West Charleston Boulevard about three years ago to focus on its larger restaurant near the Beltway on Flamingo Road, regulars followed their favorite Mexican cuisine into the tony ’burbs. But it makes sense: Once you find your favorite taquitos and rellenos in a comfortable environment with kind, quick service, it’s hard to give it up. Aside from the overwhelming deliciousness — particularly the fresh, robust salsa served as soon as you take your seat — there’s something lighter and easier about eating at Frank & Fina’s (4175 S. Grand Canyon Drive #100, 579-3017). It feels like a more healthful version of a family meal in your abuela’s kitchen. Feels-like-you’re-pracTically-in-The-acTual-counTry, mind-bogglingly auThenTic resTauranT oF The year: hk sTar. Authenticity is a tricky term when it comes to food because “authentic” doesn’t automatically equal “good.” But if someone suggests a great Chinese joint, and if you have communication issues while attempting to order, and if some of the dishes are a little scary, then you’ve probably found what you’re looking for. Our best Chinese joint that fits the bill is HK Star (3400 S. Jones Blvd. # 15, 220-3388), where big groups and families feast on salt and pepper pork chops, whole fried or steamed fish, oyster pancakes, pan fried noodles, and lots of other wondrous dishes that may or may not be on the huge menu. Service might be a challenge, as will some of the more exotic eats, but if you’re reading this, you’re ready to experiment. This is the place. hall oF Fame hanging in There resTauranT oF The year: aureole. Fine dining is dead … are you sure? Times keep on changing and the recession may have lead to the Strip’s first Buca di Beppo, but luxury will always be part of the Vegas restaurant experience. Aureole, Charlie Palmer’s decadent destination at Mandalay Bay, turned 12 years old this year, and if you haven’t been (or haven’t been back lately), you’re still missing out on a grand experience. Chef Vincent Pouessel is still calling the shots in the palatial kitchen. Sommelier William Sherer is still blowing minds, and the wine tower angels are still flying up and down for the bottle of your choice. Just like the contents of that bottle, Aureole is only getting better with age, and you don’t need to wait for a special occasion to celebrate that. Vegas is Way beTTer Than neW york resTauranT experience oF The year: rao’s. The reason why Vegas equals awesome is the same reason why locals rarely visit the Strip: convenience. What if you could somehow gain access to the most inaccessible, legendarily busy restaurant of all time, with a single phone call? Wouldn’t that be amazing? It is. Thank you, Vegas (and Caesars Palace), for making the iconic Rao’s of Harlem available to us all — the classic Neapolitan food, the festive experience, the whole package. You don’t have to pretend you’re Derek Jeter to get a taste of the lemon chicken or seafood salad around here. Extra bonus: best meatballs of all time. The dishes We look ForWard To missing in 2012: Tie — bradley ogden and Wazuzu. Why look back and lament that we’ll never again enjoy barbecue shrimp and blue cheese coleslaw from the extinct Rosemary’s Restaurant when we can look ahead to the torment other departing tasty bites will bring? Consider this a heads-up: You have a very limited time to eat these, two of the best dishes I’ve ever sampled. Everybody talks about the burger at Bradley Ogden, but the bison filet (back on the block now that Ogden’s gone to a steakhouse menu) is one of the most flavorful, tender steaks ever noshed. This acclaimed Caesars Palace dining room will likely close in the first quarter of 2012, so get at it. Across the street at Encore’s Wazuzu, it remains to be seen if Vegas’ finest Panang curry will stay online now that chef Jet Tila is moving on. You can find me under the big crystal dragon hoarding this spicy Thai goodness while it lasts. The besT use oF French Fries oF The year: Julian serrano. I expect to see “Best Use of French Fries” in a permanent capacity in next year’s Restaurant Awards, especially with so many restaurants experimenting with, let’s face it, nature’s perfect food. But until then, nothing rises above one of the top tapas at Julian Serrano’s eponymous Aria restaurant. Huevos Estrellados may be a simple, traditional Spanish dish, but there’s nothing typical about these flavors. These fries — thin, crispy and almost creamy inside — are topped with fried eggs with runny yolks and bits of spicy pork chorizo. This restaurant should be open for breakfast and serve this dish alone, that’s how good it is. — Brock Radke
the Side diSh aWardS honorable mentions + memorable eats of 2011
korean Food hasn’t quite
spread to Vegas from the left
coast in the same way that
chinese food has, although we do
have a korean food court at the
Greenland market and occasional
flashes of brilliance at places such
as honey pig. however, soyo,
which bills itself as a “barstaurant,”
stands up to any good eatery in
l.a.’s sprawling koreatown, which
is why it has to be considered such
a major surprise.
the décor features muted colors
and booths carved cannily into
the walls. cooking is done in the
kitchen, not at table, and many of
these dishes are designed to make
you drink. kim’chi pancake, a thin
crêpe with a persistent crunch, and
mandu, that’s fried dumplings to
us, both offer any dedicated barfly
an excuse to drink. other dishes
not to miss are soon du bu, soft,
silky tofu, a suspension with the
texture of crème brûlée, and some
of the best fried chicken in the
city, laced with hot spices. — Max
Jacobson
surprise of the year
Soyo korean barstaurant
7775 S. Rainbow Blvd. #105 | 897-7696
Soyo's spicy chicken wings
tofu soup
Soyo's spicy chicken wings
tofu soup
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appetizer of the year
Cheese plateVintner Grill 10100 W. Charleston Blvd. | 214-5590, www.vglasvegas.com
siGnature Dish of the year
Kusshi oysters With tabasco sorbet
SaGe Inside Aria at CityCenter, 3730 Las Vegas Blvd. S. | 230-2742, www.arialasvegas.com/dining/sage.aspx
Dessert of the year
Bread puddingVic & antHony'S SteaKHouSe Inside the Golden Nugget, 129 E. Fremont St. | 386-8399, www.goldennugget.com/dining/vics.asp
yes, We know the french prefer their cheese before, or in lieu of, dessert. but there are
times when we americans like to enjoy a cheese plate at the start of the meal — particularly
if it’s paired with some nice cured meats (or as the french say, charcuterie). there’s
no better place to do that than Vintner Grill. chef matt silverman is a serious cheese
connoisseur who recently took his cheese program to another level by making his own.
using milk from local suppliers, he ages it on premises in a special refrigerator. Given the
small quantities he produces, supplies vary. but he recently had nine different house-made
varieties on his menu. his chèvre (goat cheese) and his roquefort are both surprisingly mild.
the truffled ricotta is creamy and earthy. and an espresso-crusted goat cheese with a thin
layer of cocoa powder is unlike anything you’ve ever had before. the best part: you can
take home a wheel of your favorite. — a.m.
shaWn mcclain’s sage is one of the true originals
of the strip, a bona fide american restaurant that
serves dishes that reflect both the skill and the
aesthetic of the chef. mcclain’s cooking is confident
and creative. Witness dishes such as his Wagyu beef
tartare garnished with slow-poached egg, crushed
caper aioli and crisp chocolate wafer, or a note-perfect
iberico pork loin with milk-braised cannellini, baby
eggplant, and boutique italian mortadella, and you’ll
get the idea.
but it is his kusshi oysters with tabasco sorbet — five
delicate, buttery bites perfectly offset by the acidity in
the sorbet — that we always come back to. these perfect
little bivalves hail from the icy waters of british columbia,
and their sweet complexity is the perfect metaphor for
the chef’s approach to cooking. — M.J.
Vic & anThony’s steakhouse doesn’t get much
ink because it’s downtown, but it has set a high
standard that oscar Goodman’s new steakhouse
at the plaza should strive for. it has a retro feel,
courtesy of a stained glass skylight and amber-
colored chandeliers shaped like giant starfish, not
to mention a gallery of black and white snaps of
old Vegas. say, isn’t that elvis standing toe to toe
with liberace?
the crab cake here is killer, and the steaks are
fine, too, but the real reason to come is for their
brioche bread pudding, two warm, egg-rich slabs
of pure heaven alongside a scoop of vanilla ice
cream, served in a pastry tuile. this bread pudding
might not be the visual stunner that you’ll find at a
place like l’atelier de Joel robuchon, but it has a
solid, down-home appeal, and is the best way to
end a traditional meal here. — M.J.
personal best
Chefs and foodies pick their 2011 faves
Julie Hession, owner of Julie Anne’s All Natural Granola
The smoky-sweet grilled shishito peppers with ponzu sauce appetizer at Simon Restaurant & Lounge (inside Palms
Place, 944-3292) is the kind of dish that I start to think about in the middle of the day — and it stays on my mind until there is no
question as to where I’ll be having dinner that
night. I can easily eat an entire serving (probably two) on my own, but I’ll begrudgingly share a few bites with my husband, secretly hoping that he
grabs one of the rare spicy peppers and leaves
the rest for me.
42 d e s e r T co m pa n i o n D EC E M B E R 2 01 1
iF qualiTy and consistency are
the hallmarks of a great kitchen,
then the front of the house is
distinguished by attention to detail,
teamwork and attitude. nothing is
more annoying than an indifferent
welcome at the front podium of a
restaurant, a felony compounded
by a staff that has little or no
knowledge of the menu.
you won’t have these objections
at michael mina, where veteran
General manager Jorge pagani, who
has been at the helm since the very
beginning, has an expertly trained
group of servers, bus people and
hostesses there to cater to any
customer’s potential need.
team members such as master
sommelier Joe phillips and brazilian
server marcio silva have insider
knowledge of the wine list and
menu, respectively. assistant Gm
roberto liendo, another brazilian,
who has also worked here from the
very beginning, keeps a sharp eye
on all the employees, making sure
there isn’t an empty water or wine
glass in the house, or an unsatisfied
guest at check time. — M.J.
once The city’s best kept suburban secret, marché
bacchus is now a regular winner in this category,
but this year is different. it would have been totally
acceptable for owners rhonda and Jeff Wyatt to
rest on their restaurant’s reputation as a charming,
tasty french bistro with an impeccable (and
affordable) wine selection. but since they took
the reins in 2007, the energetic couple has never
stopped to rest, constantly renovating the food and
remodeling the beloved lakeside experience.
in 2011 they made big moves with perfect timing.
the great alex stratta was hired as consulting chef
in may, and his protégé Joe swan took charge in
the kitchen. the result was a finely sharpened menu
improving the dishes favored by regulars who
storm the lake for dinner, brunch, or both in one
weekend. seared duck breast is moister. steak is
richer, frites are crispier. and there are more tables
on that hotly requested patio. (more change: swan
moved to ohio in october, so stratta and marché
bacchus rebounded by adding former scarpetta
and alex chef David middleton.)
all this effort explains why, when rosemary’s
restaurant closed in July — easily the most
beloved off-strip culinary casualty of the times —
many summerlin diners just penciled in marché
bacchus as their favorite neighborhood joint. but
lots of us were already there, sipping a glass of
bordeaux, enjoying a baguette and watching the
geese float by. — B.R.
excellence in manaGement anD serVice
Michael MinaInside Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S. | 693-8255, www.bellagio.com/michaelmina
personal best
Chefs and foodies pick their 2011 faves
Chef John Witte, The Range Steakhouse at Harrah’s Las Vegas
Some of best food I’ve had is at Thai BBQ (4180
S. Jones Blvd., 222-0375). The restaurant is small, dimly lit and
not remarkable by any standards. They
do, however, make the best beef satays in all of Vegas. The correct
proportion of traditional ingredients makes the perfect marinade, in conjunction with the char of an open flame
grill — and even the pre-soaking of the bamboo
skewers in water lend to the incredible flavors of
this dish.
neiGhborhooD restaurant of the year
Marché Bacchus2620 Regatta Drive #106 | 804-8008, www.marchebacchus.com
From left: General Manager Roberto Liendo, Executive Chef Ben Jenkins, General
Manager Jorge Pagani
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chef of the year
Grégory Puginle cirque Inside Bellagio, 3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S. | 693-8100, www.bellagio.com/lecirque
le cirque le cirque is a culinary institution. for
more than three decades in manhattan and 13
years at bellagio, the name has been synonymous
with classic french dining. chefs have come and
gone, many of them superstars. yet le cirque has
always been a constant, refusing to follow fads
or trends. but over the past year, Grégory pugin
has breathed new life into the restaurant, making
it more relevant than it’s been in years while still
respecting its unique place in culinary history.
trained in france under chef Jean-marie
Gautier, pugin went on to open eight restaurants
for chef of the century Joel robuchon. later,
at new york’s Veritas, he earned a michelin
star in 2009 and a rising star chef of the year
nomination from the James beard foundation.
bellagio brought him to town in 2010, and
charged him with making le cirque more
approachable and contemporary.
“Grégory was given carte blanche,” says
bellagio’s Director of service Dominique
bertolone.
What pugin did with that freedom was institute
two separate menus. longtime fans of the
restaurant can still order classics like escargot,
Dover sole and the famed rabbit symphony.
but the chef’s seasonal choices rely on familiar
proteins prepared with a modern fine-dining flair
– like his langoustine with caviar and apple-vodka
gelee, and his oxtail bucatini.
“they are two different types of cuisine,”
pugin says. “there are old-school dishes that our
customers still appreciate. and my dishes are
a little bit more contemporary. however, they
blend pretty well in the menu. and it gives our
guests alternatives.” — A.M.
d e s e r Tco m pa n i o n .co m 43
Le Cirque's citrus-marinated New Zealand langoustines topped with osetra caviar and apple vodka gelée
44 d e s e r T co m pa n i o n D EC E M B E R 2 01 1
maybe you haven’t yet tasted the best house-made charcuterie
on the strip, or the brilliant egg-topped steak tartare in a jar.
maybe you haven’t lunched on the terrace overlooking las Vegas
boulevard, wolfing down a blt made with luscious pork belly.
maybe you haven’t plunked down at the comfy bar and dabbled
with the creative prohibition-era cocktail list, and then, when
you’ve had too many, indulged in perhaps the greatest bar snack
of all time: roasted bone marrow with rich oxtail jam.
if you haven’t done these things at comme Ça, transplanted
from los angeles to the cosmopolitan by David myers, then
sure, maybe you’re surprised it’s our restaurant of the year. but
the truth is this modern brasserie is pitch-perfect right now for
the ever-changing Vegas dining universe. it’s a satisfying spin
on the world’s greatest cuisine. its modular design provides
experiences both casual and formal, taking apart the question
of fine dining. it’s a foodie haven and a specialty eatery while
remaining approachable and affordable. in the small, exciting
stable of restaurants the year-old cosmo has unleashed upon
us, comme Ça is the most versatile, warm and welcoming. it
confounds no one but pleases us all.
credit goes to myers, cosmo’s John unwin and his f&b team,
and executive chef brian howard, a young Vegas veteran who
was tasked with turning things around when, unlike the resort,
the restaurant started slow. to say howard and his crew have hit
their stride would be an understatement; comme Ça is a hit in
every way. — B.R.
restaurant of the year
Comme ÇaInside The Cosmopolitan, 3708 Las Vegas Blvd. S. | 698-7910, www.commecarestaurant.com
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d e s e r Tco m pa n i o n .co m 45
bonus Still hungry? Read more 2011 faves
from chefs, critics and foodies at
www.desertcompanion.com.
clocKwiSe From leFt: Crispy-skin Liberty duck breast and confit leg in Szechuan peppercorn sauce; Comme Ça's charcuterie plate; Chef Brian Howard at work; egg-topped steak tartar.
CITYburger 46 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
Create Gourmet Burgers is just one outlet that makes Sin City a true
burgerville.
by brock radke PhotograPhy christoPher smith
CITYburger Many months ago, way before the popular food truck he created with his friend Robert “Mags” Magsalin blossomed into the kind
of fresh, hip Hollywood eatery where Jim Carrey would pop in on opening night, Colin Fukunaga was talking a little smack. If you’ve met Colin — if you’ve ever checked out the goods from the Fukuburger truck, he’s always around — this comes as no surprise. It’s always good-natured smack-talking, and this occasion was no different.
He was talking about taking over the world. He was excited about the success of his super-hyped Japanese burgermobile. But he was most jacked up about the potential of Fukuburger to achieve the opposite of traditional Vegas restaurant success. All the great restaurants here started somewhere else and then came to the Strip, he explained — loudly — and it’s about time something started in Las Vegas and expanded outward. >>>
m
Does Las Vegas haVe an offICIaL fooD? IT Does now: The hamburger. here’s whY
D e s e r tCo m pa n i o n .Co m 47
And now it has. Fukuburger L.A. opened in October. And while Colin, Mags and their team have proven it’s possible to take local food to the next level, all I can think about is how good their burgers are: perfectly medium rare every time, beefy juices commingling with furikake and teriyaki, fried egg adding that extra rich flavor bomb. Theirs is one of the best burgers in Vegas, which is why it’s in L.A. And it’s another tasty reason why Vegas is the best place to eat a burger. It’s our official food.
No one can question that our city is one of the world's greatest — and most unique — dining destinations. But there's no regional cuisine in the desert. There's no signature American food item categorically linked to Las Vegas in the manner of the Philly cheesesteak, the soul food of the South, Texas barbecue or the Chicago/New York hot dog/pizza ... whatever. You get the point.
But we are in the age of the burger. It's been the most popular of American meals pretty much forever, an icon on a sesame seed bun. These days it’s celebrated in every way, from TV shows and blogs dedicated to finding the best, most bad-ass burger, to celebrity chefs crafting a namesake ground beefwich. Every restaurant has a burger, and it’s probably pretty good. Fancy French restaurants have burgers, and they’re amazing. What other foodstuff is simply reduced in size and called an appetizer?
This is where Vegas comes in. We have the greatest variety available here, a burgerverse unto itself. That’s because, like Colin pointed out, everybody comes to Vegas. It took me a while to realize that not every city in the United States has Normal, Illinois’ Steak ‘n' Shake; Washington, D.C.’s Five Guys; San Antonio’s Fuddruckers; and California’s In-N-Out, Tommy’s, Fatburger and Farmer Boys.
This is an all-encompassing selection, and it’s only the casual burger beginnings. All burgers, all the time, all the prime beef and toppings you can think of — this is the way of the fancy Vegas burger joint, one of which can be found in just about every casino on the Strip. At Burger Bar at Mandalay Bay, you can add black truffles or foie gras. At BLT at Mirage, each burger is a blend of short rib, brisket, chuck and sirloin. At Holsteins at The Cosmopolitan, the beef is dry-aged. At KGB at Harrah’s, there’s a burger modeled after a Cobb salad. At Burger Joint at the Flamingo, the Burning Love burger has cayenne-peppered bacon, jalapeños and pepper jack cheese — unless you want to make it a Scorcher and add ghost pepper sauce. Why would you do that?
Then there are our fine-dining masterpieces, like the famous ground steak burger at Bradley Ogden (Caesars Palace) or the legendary prime hamburger at Delmonico Steakhouse (Venetian). Have you had the burger at RM Seafood? It’s incredible — and they serve fish here! Please tell me you’ve tasted the Comme Ça burger at our Restaurant of the Year. It could have been the burger of the year, easily.
Are there too many delicious burgers in Las Vegas? Yes, more than any other city, and we are willing to bet on it. And we have secret weapons, too, in our homegrown burgers. One day soon, no visitor’s whirlwind Vegas experience will be complete without grabbing a bite at Fukuburger, or perhaps the refined mini-burgers of their food truck family from Slidin’ Thru. There are astounding Asian flavors at Henderson’s Bachi Burger. There’s every topping in the book at Create Burger on West Lake Mead, and piles of pastrami or slathered chipotle sauce at Sammy’s L.A. Pastrami & Burgers. And you can't get more local than the beautifully greasy, ground-fresh-daily diner burger at Binion’s.
We are burger city. Embrace it. In the most American of cities — in food trucks, fine restaurants and familiar chains — we represent the most American of meals like nowhere else. All in the middle of the desert. It’s unlikely and a little crazy — like Vegas itself.
48 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
The TrendsetterBurger Bar
If a single restaurant started the gourmet burger trend in
Las Vegas, it would have to be Hubert Keller’s Burger Bar at
Mandalay Place in 2004. The fact that a renowned French chef was
giving the haute cuisine treatment to America’s favorite sandwich
made all the difference, and now every casino seems to have its
own version of Burger Bar, some with big-name chefs attached.
The original has Keller’s name on his favorite burger of ground
buffalo, baby spinach, caramelized onions and blue cheese on a
ciabatta bun. The lean buffalo keeps it light without losing richness,
and the onions and cheese push the flavors into overdrive.
The greaT ChaIn of
burgerDomFour of Vegas’ best burgers
represent the meaty magic in all its rich, juicy glory
By Brock radke
D e s e r tCo m pa n i o n .Co m 49
The ImportP.J. clarke’s
Vegas is dining heaven because we bring in the best from all
over the world, and burgers are no different. The Cadillac at
P.J. Clarke’s got its name from Nat King Cole, who clearly thought
this old-fashioned bacon cheeseburger was the best you could
get. That was in New York City a long time ago, and the updated
Vegas version is available today at the new P.J.’s in the Forum
Shops at Caesars. It’s a study in simplicity, the polar opposite of
the wildly topped fancyburgers you can find everywhere.
Call it classically delicious.
The StandardBradley ogden
Fine restaurants serving a cheeseburger at the bar is nothing
new, but the kitchen crew at Bradley Ogden turned a simple meal
into a masterpiece that famously attracted the attention of GQ
critic Alan Richman. As BO is slated to close in early 2012, you only
have a few more months to enjoy this beauty, which is ground
mostly from ribeye, delicately wood-smoked and bathed in red
wine and butter while cooked. If your love for burgers is based
on the beef, good luck finding one better than this.
The ExportFukuBurger
For all its food truck hipness and in-your-face attitude,
it’s always been the food that has fueled Fukuburger’s rapid rise.
Upstart restaurateur Harry Morton loved its scene and dedicated
following, but he decided to invest in Fuku futures because of the
unique flavors in these juicy, perfect burgers. The top seller is
the Tamago, or egg burger, featuring a runny fried one on top of
a marinated Fuku patty with furikake, teriyaki sauce, wasabi mayo
and crispy onions. Will this be the most famous burger ever
to come out of Vegas? Sure tastes like it.
50 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
David Robins of Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group
D e s e r tCo m pa n i o n .Co m 51
Backbasics to
The new rule for restaurants in the coming year: Keep it simple — and friendly. This guy would know
By Howard Riell
Fresh ingredients, a focus on value and a welcoming atmosphere. They’re not exactly austerity measures, but they make up the back-to-basics approach that will characterize the dining scene in 2012, according to David Robins. He should know. He’s managing partner of operations and corporate chef for Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group’s Las Vegas arm. As its executive chef in 1992, Robins oversaw the opening of Spago, the restaurant that proved that Vegas could do more than serve up heat lamp roast beef, starting the Las Vegas fine-dining wave that continues today. Robins recently shared his thoughts on the past year in dining — and the years to come.
52 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1
Desert Companion: What kind of year has 2011 been for the Las Vegas restaurant scene?DaviD robins: Fantastic. Probably one of our highlight years. After things kind of crashed a couple of years ago, we went into a new mode of operation and focused on service, hospitality and finance. All of that came to fruition this year as we were very fortunate to have a lot of traffic in town; a lot of our convention business and relationships with locals continued to grow. It was a record year, along with a year of stepping forward in hospitality and creating a “wow” experience.
DC: What were the prevalent food trends?Dr: Back to simplicity. Quality of ingredients. Execution of technique in the kitchen. And utilizing seasonal produce.
DC: Any restaurant openings that stand out?Dr: I would say The Cosmopolitan probably was the opening of the year for its collection of restaurants, and for its ambitiousness to continue to put more restaurants onto the Strip.
DC: Noteworthy restaurant closings?Dr: Michael Jordan’s restaurant off the Strip, Rosemary’s. It probably, in my opinion, signified a change in the local market outside of the Strip. On the Strip, I can’t think if anything closing that was significant.
DC: What does the current economy mean for the restaurants in Las Vegas? Is it a time to open restaurants? Close them?Dr: I think it’s a combination of both. We’re fortunate to have a pretty strong presence here in town with our six restaurants. We continue to try and reinvent ourselves with efficiencies, but at the same time create that customer experience that is unforgettable, so that they will come back and see us. We’re really into repeat business with our conventioneers, but also with our locals coming to see us two or three times a week. But also there are great opportunities right now. We’re always looking at expanding our operation here in town, and with the right opportunity we would always look at it.
DC: Has the Las Vegas dining-out customer changed over the last few years?Dr: I think they’re a little more discerning. Also, I think they’re looking for a little bit more of a value, which is kind of in our climate currently. It’s up to the restaurant scene to create that in the sense of making people feel special at the door, being able to recognize special occasions. At the same time, people are a little bit more skeptical about the money they spend and they want to make sure they’re getting value and consistency with that dollar.
DC: It’s been said that Las Vegas is not doing all it can to promote its top-flight culinary offerings — and that if it did, more people would come to Vegas. Do you agree?Dr: I think we’re definitely a component in the entertainment factor of Las Vegas, and I think it is an untapped revenue source along with our great shows, the great concerts and events that go on here. Anything that can promote Las Vegas, that can bring people here to the hotel, gaming and entertainment sector, is important for our local market.
DC: Las Vegas restaurant lore holds that you helped launch the last dining revolution here. True?Dr: (Laughs) I don’t know if it’s me personally. I’m fortunate to work for Wolfgang, who was very visionary in 1992 to come to Las Vegas when the market did not bear fine-dining restaurants. I’ve been here for 20 years. I believe in Las Vegas, I believe in the food scene, and I believe in the people who make this town work. If I can be part of the rebirth of Las Vegas, or the continued success of it, I’m more than happy to do that.
DC: Is another restaurant revolution needed?Dr: I think so. Anything needs to be reinvented with time. We were very fortunate to uproot an amazing food-and-beverage package for Las Vegas in the last 20 years. It may have gotten a little bit on the high-end side. I
believe there need to be experiences between the casual dining and the fine dining so that — if it’s a three-day visit or a five-day visit — everybody is taken care of. At the same time, you can still create a “wow” experience with pizza, pasta and salad as much as you can with foie gras and a roasted fish.
DC: Where do Las Vegas restaurants need to improve?Dr: I believe it’s in consistency on hospitality, making sure also that we are cooking with the best ingredients and not taking shortcuts. Focus on being the best that you can be within your environment. Whether it’s a freestanding restaurant or a casino restaurant, what I’m looking for is Las Vegas to be represented on the highest level.
DC: What role does social media play in helping to shape and lead the restaurant community here in town?Dr: You know, I used to be Mr. Negative about social media, but what I realized is it’s a voice for the public to have an opinion on things instantly. What that means is that you’ve got to be on your game every day. It doesn’t matter if it’s a renowned food critic from out of state or a local who’s coming into your restaurant; the individuals who dine in your restaurant have the opportunity, through Tweeting or texting, blogging, to make an opinion. That just means you’re being critiqued every day, every minute, and you’ve got to be the best you can be. I have no problem with that. I actually used the social media process for negative feedback, to go back to our group to point out opportunities where we can improve.
DC: What’s going to happen in restaurants nationally and in Las Vegas in the year ahead?Dr: I believe, nationally, that there is a recommitment to the art of food. Again, I go back to quality of ingredients and technique of cooking to execute that. Hospitality being more sincere would probably be on top of the list. Also, managing your businesses to create a family environment that makes people feel comfortable and willing to go to work and execute it on a high level. I believe it’s happening nationally and that it is going to penetrate into Las Vegas. I think we’re only on an upward process here in Las Vegas, to continue to be one of the top destinations — culinarily and entertainment-wise — in the United States.
Please Join Us...
Nevada 1000
Guest Speaker
Erwin ChemerinskyFounding Dean of the University of
California, Irvine School of Law
December 4, 2011
Please join us for our annual Nevada 1000
Brunch (location upon request)
$1000 minimum to the 2011 annual campaign
American Heritage
2011
Dinner
Honoring
Jan Jones With Special Guest
President Bill Clinton
Ju
risprudence
2012 Jurisprudence
Luncheon
Honoring Senator
Richard Bryan
May 9, 2012January 7, 2012
Tickets and sponsorships are available
For more information, call ADL at 702.862.8600
d e s e r tco m pa n i o n .co m 55
3 Happy HoliWHAT I CAN’T HEAR YOU I said happy holiSORRY STILL
CAN’T HEAR YOU Oh, geez, never miNEVER MIND ABOUT WHAT? Give the gift of fat, brassy bombast this season with the Walt Boenig Big Band. They’re performing holiday hits in true en-semble style: loudly. They perform for free 2 p.m. Dec. 18 at CSN’s Nicholas J. Horn Theatre. Info: www.csn.edu/pac
A rt
M u s i c
t h e At e r
D A n c e
FA M i LY
a r t s + e n t e r ta i n m e n t
5Warning. Dutch artist and designer Jonny Detiger
can see right through you — and he likes what he sees: the unfiltered thoughts, images and curious impres-sions that swirl inside all of us — you know, the original Twitter. That’s what he captures in the sophisti-cated but whimsical mixed media work of “Stream of Consciousness,” which runs through Dec. 30 at Brett Wesley Gallery at 1112 S. Casino Center Blvd., www.brettwesleygallery.com
1Seeing a Michael Jackson tribute produced by Cirque du Soleil is like drink-ing Dr Pepper with a straw made of Pop Rocks. In other words, your face just might explode from a case of Billie Jean moonwalk overdrive. And for serious
fans looking to have what’s left of their faces explode even more, they can check out the Michael Jackson Fan Fest exhibit. Michael Jackson The Immortal World Tour is Dec. 3-27 at the Mandalay Bay Events Center. Tickets $50-$175. The Mi-chael Jackson Fan Fest is Dec. 3-14 at Mandalay Bay’s Bayside Exhibit Hall. Tickets $35-$75. Info: www.mandalaybay.com
take
4 I mean, Salvador Dalí painted melting clocks and 3D Jesuses, so is it any
surprise the guy was obsessed with atomic energy? Judith Overcash should know; she’s a longtime do-cent at the Salvador Dalí Museum in St. Petersburg, Florida. Overcash discusses the influence of the Atomic Age on Dalí’s work in “Dalí and the Atomic Bomb” 6 p.m. Dec. 9 at the Atomic Testing Museum, 755 E. Flamingo Road. Admission $5-$10. Info: www.atomictestingmuseum.org
2 If The Nutcracker is to remain a viable holi-day tradition, we must
supply the inexorable machine that is this seasonal mainstay with fresh souls. Thus we present The Nutcracker II: Dark Harvest. Okay, it’s not actually called that, but this Nutcracker put on by the Nevada School of Dance will feature 60 young, fresh souls who should keep the franchise running for a few decades. NOW GET BACK TO DANC-ING, KIDS. It happens 7 p.m. Dec. 16 and 6 p.m. Dec. 17 at Faith Lutheran High School, 2015 S. Hualapai Way. Tickets $10-$15. Info: www.nevadaschoolofdance.org
12.2011
Michael Jackson The Immortal
World Tour
Jonny Detiger’s “Wow”
Please Join Us...
Nevada 1000
Guest Speaker
Erwin ChemerinskyFounding Dean of the University of
California, Irvine School of Law
December 4, 2011
Please join us for our annual Nevada 1000
Brunch (location upon request)
$1000 minimum to the 2011 annual campaign
American Heritage
2011
Dinner
Honoring
Jan Jones With Special Guest
President Bill Clinton
Ju
risprudence
2012 Jurisprudence
Luncheon
Honoring Senator
Richard Bryan
May 9, 2012January 7, 2012
Tickets and sponsorships are available
For more information, call ADL at 702.862.8600
56 d e s e r t co m pa n i o n D EC E M B E R 2 01 1
Art First FridayDec. 2 and Jan. 6, 6 p.m.-midnight.
Now in its ninth year, downtown’s
monthly arts festival features art,
exhibits, crafts, food, live music
and more. Free. www.firstfriday-
lasvegas.com
10 x 10Through Dec. 2. Visual artists and
writers whose work is influenced
or inspired by Southern Nevada
collaborate to mark the 10-year
anniversary of the Vegas Valley
Book Festival. Free. Clark County
Government
Center Rotunda Gallery
Let Them Eat Cake Through Dec. 12. Feast your eyes on
some sweet artwork. Let Them Eat
Cake is a collection of local artists’
work inspired by all things cake —
and Marie Antoinette’s beheading.
UNLV’s Marjorie Barrick Museum
Stream of ConsciousnessThrough Dec. 30. Dutch artist and
designer Jonny Detiger translates
conversations, random encounters
and daydreams into playful mixed
media works that include drawings,
paintings and sculptures. He ex-
plores human relationships and the
nature of happiness in these works
that manage to be both sophisti-
cated and whimsical. Brett Wesley
Gallery, 1112 S. Casino Center Blvd.,
www.brettwesleygallery.com
A Place in ParadiseThrough Dec. 31. A slate of historic
photographs showcases the
Mid-Mod throwback neighbor-
hood, Paradise Palms, the city’s
first master-planned community.
Situated around the Boulevard
Mall, it is now seeing an influx of
professionals who are attracted
to its historic charm. Boulevard
Mall food court,
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Rumor de Lobos Grandes: Endi Poskovic Selected PrintsThrough Jan. 9. Endi Poskovic’s prints
are like posters from bygone eras
that seem at once familiar and
remote, ordinary yet magical. That’s
because those eras exist largely in
Poskovic’s mind. Taking influences
as diverse as movie posters, Japa-
nese woodcuts and Eastern Euro-
pean propaganda posters, Poskov-
ic’s pieces explore cultural identity,
alienation and social history. But
above all, they’re a pleasure to look
at. Historic Fifth Street School.www.
artslasvegas.org
Tales from Fremont StreetThrough Jan. 15. View original art, con-
ceptual drawings and scripts from
the locally produced noir comic
book anthology “Tales from Fre-
mont Street.” You’ll get a glimpse
behind the process that goes into
creating illustrated fiction. UNLV’s
Marjorie Barrick Museum
To The Neon Gods They MadeThrough Jan. 20; reception Dec. 2,
5:30 p.m. Photographs by Michael
Monson and Tony Flanagan of
stalled and abandoned construc-
tion projects in Las Vegas, from
the Strip to the suburbs. Through
HDR imaging, the artists breathe
life back into these promises of
progress, at the same time illumi-
nating the tragic realities of these
fallen “saviors.”
Winchester Cultural Center Gallery
Vegas Spectacular: From the Stage to the StripThrough Jan. 22. This photographic
retrospective from the Las Vegas
News Bureau explores the relation-
ship between the spectacle of the
stage show and the mid-century
marquees of the city. Free. West
Charleston Library
Transfigured Lands Through Jan. 14; reception Dec. 3, 6 p.m.
Mark Baugh-Sasaki’s work aims to
make viewers more aware of their
environment and their connec-
tion to it, investigating water as
a transformative force within this
new hybrid landscape we live in.
His site-specific exhibition trans-
forms the traditional gallery space
into an environment of its own. The
Pop Up Art House gallery, 730 W.
Sunset Road,
www.thepopuparthouse.com
The Small of the BackDec. 1-31. Painter Lincoln Maynard,
sculptor Scott Sandoval and digital
artist Francois Dubeau use lines,
strokes, planes and other minimalist
techniques to celebrate the com-
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58 d e s e r t co m pa n i o n D EC E M B E R 2 01 1
forting and restorative power of
the female form. Sin City Gallery
inside the Arts Factory,
www.sincitygallery.com
Mama’s Fabric Visual Arts ExhibitDec. 7-Jan. 28. This comprehensive
exhibition by John Broussard
centers on Beatrice Dixon, a
community organizer, seamstress
and a believer in the American
Dream. West Las Vegas Arts
Center Gallery, 947 W. Lake Mead
Blvd., (702) 229-4800,
www.artslasvegas.org
DanceCSN Fall Dance ConcertDec. 2, 7 p.m.; Dec. 3, 2 p.m. and 7 p.m.
Embark on an intellectual explora-
tion of life, death and the ultimate
meaning of existence — yeah,
heavy stuff — when CSN’s Fall
Dance Concert pays homage to
composer Gustav Mahler, with cho-
reographer Kelly Roth presenting
the composer’s massive Symphony
No. 9. $8-$10. CSN’s Nicholas J.
Horn Theatre,
www.csn.edu
Michael Jackson The Immortal World Tour by Cirque du SoleilDec. 3-27. Cirque du Soleil’s unique
tribute to Michael Jackson uses
visuals, dance, music and fantasy
segments — and, of course, the
King of Pop’s signature moves.
$50-$175. Mandalay Bay hotel-
casino,
www.mandalaybay.com
The NutcrackerDecember 17-24. The only nut I’ve ever
seen at “The Nutcracker” is my
emotional mother bawling at the
sight of the sugar plum fairies —
and she’s Jewish. Bring your nuts,
er, family members to experience
this holiday classic. Nevada Ballet
Theatre performs “The Nutcracker”
Dec. 17-24 at Paris Theâtré. Info:
946-4567. Las Vegas Ballet Com-
d e s e r tco m pa n i o n .co m 59
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Festivals and Family EventsAnnual Holiday Spectacular at Springs PreserveDecember 3-4, 11-12 and 17-23, 5-9 p.m.
Enjoy holiday cheer this year with
music by a wide array of local art-
ists, holiday-inspired goodies at
The Springs Cafe, cookie decorat-
ing and photos with Santa Claus.
Little ones can hop on the train and
reindeer ride, while you shop for
“green” gifts at the gift shop. While
you’re there take a whirl on their
ice rink — and don’t forget your
mittens. ($5/person, includes skate
rental). $8/adults, $5/children 5-12,
free/4 and under. Members receive
half-off regular-priced admission.
www.springspreserve.org
Festival of LightsDec. 10, noon-6 p.m. Now in its 11th
year, the Festival of Lights at The
Lakes will attempt to sparkle,
dazzle and outshine itself. Bask in
the glory of innumerable wattage
and then get back to your to-do
list. A Goodwill truck will also
be there to collect donations.
Free. The Lakes on West Sahara,
www.festival.lakesassociation.com
Lectures, Readings and Panels 50 Ways to Leave Your Love: New Media and Breaking Up Dec. 6, 7:30 p.m. It is still ideal to
breakup in person, but in actual
practice, people use a wide variety
of social media and technology to
get the job done. A breakup is a
breakup. Unless, of course, you are
notified by Facebook that you are
no longer in a relationship, then
it’s a whole different story. Or is it?
Dr. Gershon will examine people’s
complicated interpretations for
explaining how a medium affects
a message. Free. UNLV’s Marjorie
Barrick Museum Auditorium
Dalí and the Atomic BombDec. 9, 6 p.m. Lecturer Judith Over-
cash, a docent at the Salvador Dalí
Museum in St. Petersburg, Florida,
will discuss the famous surrealist
painter’s fascination and obsession
with atomic energy, and how they
were expressed in his famous works,
including holograms and other artis-
tic endeavors. $5-$10. Atomic Test-
ing Museum, 755 E. Flamingo Road,
www.atomictestingmuseum.org
MusicUNLV Choral Ensembles Winter ConcertDec. 2, 7:30 p.m. There is an abun-
dance of opportunities to hear hol-
iday music throughout the season,
but the UNLV Choral Ensembles
Winter Concert is a special delight
that includes the participation of
all four university choirs. $8-$10.
UNLV’s Artemus Ham Hall, www.
pac.unlv.edu
60 d e s e r t co m pa n i o n DECEMBER 2011
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Not valid on Happy Hour menu items or alcoholic beverages. EXPIrES 12/31/2011
Branch managerIs it a tree or a power pole, a spray of branches or a cluster of wires? In the sculptures of Mark Baugh-Sasaki, it’s hard to tell the difference — and that’s the point. Fascinated with the hybrid landscape we live in, where the natural and the artificial coexist and sometimes clash, Baugh fuses the two realities into sculptures that are singular — and singularly beautiful. “Transfigured Lands” is on exhibit through Jan. 14 at The Pop Up Art House gallery on 730 W. Sunset Road, www.thepopuparthouse.com — Andrew Kiraly
Mark Baugh-Sasaki’s “Hybrid Interactions”
You reallY love our magazine.
Now you caN love it virtually, too.
Visit us at desertcompanion.com and check out our new website. Between editions of our
Maggie Award-winning magazine, you’ll get web-exclusive stories, breaking cultural news
and fresh perspectives from our writers.
Neil Berg’s Broadway HolidayDec. 3, 7 p.m. It’s a Broadway holi-
day at this night of White Way
hits, from “Chicago” to “Wicked,”
featuring composer/lyricist Neil
Berg. This holiday music will move
you no matter your faith. $35-$75.
UNLV’s Artemus Ham Hall, www.
pac.unlv.edu
Winchester’s Ancestral Rhythms Dec. 3, 2 p.m. Drums are a musical sta-
ple in many cultures, and they often
help hold the community together.
The Winchester Ancestral Rhythms
group combines rhythms and
techniques from many cultures to
create a unique performance style.
$5. Winchester Cultural Center
Pete Contino BandDec. 10, 2 p.m. Contino’s mix of blues,
Americana, Cajun, and roots music
is creating legions of fans in North
America and Europe. Little wonder:
The Las Vegas-based singer and
accordion player is the son of leg-
endary accordionist Dick Contino.
$10-$12, Winchester Cultural Center
Andrea BocelliDec. 10, 8 p.m. The opera sensation
returns to the U.S. for a concert
tour, this time featuring conductor
Eugene Kohn, soprano Ana Maria
Martinez and the Tony Award-
winning Heather Headly. $75-$400.
MGM Grand Garden Arena
Las Vegas Philharmonic Pops II: A Holiday CelebrationDec. 17, 2 p.m., 8 p.m. Singers Kristen
Hertzenberg (“Phantom: The Las
Vegas Spectacular”) and Travis
Cloer (“Jersey Boys”) along with
the Las Vegas Master Singers per-
form favorite Christmas and Ha-
nukkah melodies. $38-$78. UNLV’s
Artemus Ham Hall, www.lvphil.com
Walt Boenig Big Band Holiday ConcertDec. 18, 2 p.m. The Walt Boenig Big
Band will knock your candy-cane
stockings and Santa hat right off
with their bone-rattling big sound.
Sit up close — if you dare. Free.
CSN’s Nicholas J. Horn Theatre,
www.csn.edu/pac
Trans-Siberian OrchestraDec. 29, 4 p.m., 8 p.m. The renowned
progressive rock ensemble takes
holiday classics and gives them the
full-blown rock-opera treatment,
complete with pyrotechnics and
tight pants. $32-$59.50. UNLV’s
Thomas & Mack Center, www.
unlvtickets.com
Stevie WonderDec. 31, 9 p.m. The soul sensation will
celebrate the arrival of 2012 with a
concert that revisits — and re-
charges — his greatest hits. $250.
The Chelsea at the Cosmopolitan,
www.cosmopolitanlasvegas.com
TheaterA Christmas CarolDec. 2, 3, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16 and 17, 8 p.m.
You can imitate him by saying,
“Bah, humbug,” but don’t be a
Scrooge by opting out of the joyful
performance that is “A Christmas
Carol.” $20-$30. UNLV’s Judy Bay-
ley Theatre, www.unlv.edu
Deadman’s Cell PhoneDec. 2-18. When a diner patron wit-
ness another one drop dead and
answers his mobile phone as it
insistently rings, she becomes
tangled up in his mysterious life
and dramatic family … with whistle
stops in both the underworld and
the hereafter. $13-$15. Las Vegas
Little Theatre, 3920 Schiff Drive.
www.lvlt.org
The Elves and the ShoemakerDec. 8, 10 a.m. The California Theatre
Center hosts the offbeat tale, “The
Elves and the Shoemaker,” in which
two merry elves come to the aid of
a very distressed shoemaker in the
Black Forest. UNLV’s Artemus Ham
Hall. 1-800-606-0424, www.unlv.edu
One Christmas CarolDec. 9, 10 at 7:30 p.m.; Dec. 11, 2 p.m.
Kellan D. Baker will test the limits
of man’s creative capacity by play-
ing 32 distinct characters — and
using only 3 chairs! — for his set
in “One Christmas Carol,” based
on Charles Dickens’ famous tale.
$8-$10. CSN’s BackStage Theatre,
www.csn.edu
Oliver!Dec. 9, 10, 16, 17, 7 p.m.; Dec. 11, 17, 18, 2 p.m.
The Rainbow Company Youth The-
atre brings this pint-sized historical
literary figure to life in their sure-
to-please performance of Dickens’
classic novel. $3-$7. Charleston
Heights Arts Center, 800 S. Brush
St.,
www.artslasvegas.org
Fundraisers The Magical Forest at Opportunity VillageThrough Dec. 31, 5-10 p.m. What’s most
magical about The Magical Forest
at Opportunity Village is not the
beautiful forest, but how attendees
help the OV’s clientele. 6300 W.
Oakey Blvd., www.opportunityvil-
lage.org
Library Tree Lane gala reception and auctionDec. 2, 7 p.m. This eighth annual fund-
mojave air
the tree’s arm reaches over onto the balconydry slivered footstepsthe edge of wind
love someone this wayand you might end upa pineconeon some other planet’s pine tree
leaves fall and they are orange sunlightpressed between cracksthe sky is curved we can swim
— Shannon Salter
d e s e r tco m pa n i o n .co m 61
62 d e s e r t co m pa n i o n D EC E M B E R 2 01 1
raiser put on by Friends of Hender-
son Libraries will benefit the teen
collection at Henderson libraries.
Hosted by Père Noel, the event
features Desert Companion editor
and novelist Andrew Kiraly as its
guest author. $25. Paseo Verde Li-
brary, 280 S. Green Valley Parkway,
492-6584
The Las Vegas Great Santa RunDec. 3, 10 a.m. Put down the cook-
ies and start training. The Las
Vegas Great Santa Run is back
and, whether or not you don red
threads, this event is worth attend-
ing for the mere fact that you get
to see neighbors and local celeb-
rities sporting beards. $25-$45.
Town Square,
www.opportunityvillage.org
Enchanted Garden Party Dec. 3, 2:30-5:30 p.m. This party ben-
efits Project AngelFaces, which
creates social change through
programs that share fresh fruits
and vegetables and teach organic
gardening. Entry fee includes raffle
ticket, children’s garden tour, re-
freshments, live entertainment, and
a gift bag. Also features a silent
auction. $5-$25. Garden of Norm
Schilling, 767 Rossmore Dr. www.
projectangelfaces.org
Suite HolidaysDec. 16 6 p.m.; Dec. 17, 3 p.m. Get an
exclusive and extensive tour of the
suites at the Cosmopolitan and
sample wine and food pairings
from some of the valley’s best res-
taurants. This fundraiser benefits
Junior Achievement, a nonprofit
that provides business, economics
and life-skills programs for young
people. $250 for the Dec. 16 VIP
reception (includes suite tour);
$125 for the Dec. 17 suite tour. Cos-
mopolitan hotel-casino, 214-0500,
www. jalasvegas.org
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SUNDAY, DECEMBER 4TH
9am to 3pm
OUTDOOR EVENT, LOCATED AMIDST THE PLANTS, LIVE BIRDS & KOI POND.
“PLANT WORLD NURSERY”$10 for Adults | Kids Under 12 are Free
BRING YOUR KIDS FOR PHOTOS WITH SANTA, CARNIVAL GAMES FOR PRIZES, TACO TRUCK, HOT DOG STAND, BUY YOUR FRESH CHRISTMAS TREE WHILE SHOPPING
FOR GIFTS FROM OVER 50 VENDORS
BEST HOLIDAY EVENT OF THE YEAR 5301 West Charleston Blvd. | Between Decatur & Jones
d e s e r tco m pa n i o n .co m 63
the cosmopolitan3708 Las Vegas Blvd. s., 698-7000, www.cosmo-politanlasvegas.com
centerpiece Galleryin CityCenter3720 Las Vegas Blvd. s., 736-8790, www.centerpiece.com
charleston Heights arts center800 s. Brush st., 229-6383
clark county Government center500 Grand Central Park-way, 455-8239
college of southern nevadaBackstage theater, nicholas J. Horn theater, recital Hall, 3200 e. Cheyenne ave., north Las Vegas, 651-5483, www.csn.edu
Historic Fifth street school401 s. Fourth st., 229-6469
House of Bluesinside mandalay Bay3950 Las Vegas Blvd. s., www.hob.com
insurgo’s Bastard theater900 e. Karen ave. D114, www.insurgotheater.org
Las vegas-clark county Library districtCentennial Hills, Clark County, enterprise, rainbow, sahara West, summerlin, sunrise, West Charleston and Whitney libraries, 734-reaD, www.lvccld.org
mGm Grand Garden arenain the mGm Grand,3799 Las Vegas Blvd. s., www.mgmgrand.com
the orleans showroominside the Orleans4500 W. tropicana ave., www.orleanscasino.com
reed Whipple cultural center821 Las Vegas Blvd. n., 229-1012
the springs preserve333 s. Valley View Blvd., 822-7700, www.springspreserve.org
UnLvartemus Ham Hall, Judy Bayley theater, Beam music Center recital Hall, Barrick museum audito-rium, Black Box theater, Greenspun Hall audito-rium, Paul Harris theater, student Union theatre. 4505 s. maryland Parkway, 895-2787, www.unlv.edu
Winchester cultural center3130 s. mcLeod Dr. 455-7340
VENUE GUIDE
The Holiday Spectacular happens at the Springs Preserve Dec. 3-4, 10-11 and 17-23.
d e s e r tco m pa n i o n .co m 63
last word
BNews item: A church official’s recent admis-sion to stealing parish funds to fuel his gambling addiction makes one wonder if there weren’t warning signs.
Brothers and sisters, some among you may have heard whispers within our commu-nity of certain questionable financial matters at this parish. Let me assure you that such foul vapors are just that — transitory and to be avoided with pinched noses and squinted eyes. They whimper like a toy dog brought on to a casino floor for too long and in need of a bathroom break while their owner continues to feed a clearly rigged Battlestar Galactica slot machine. Much like that dog, I come here today to relieve myself.
Such did Jesus, uh, relieve himself in to-day’s gospel, Luke 7:11, with the raising of the widow’s son. His luck had run up — or so it would seem. How many of us have not felt as lonely as this widow, having lost all in our life? You will find yourselves in the pawn shop of your soul, trading off those an-tique figurines you inherited from your dad. You never really liked them, but knew they might be valuable one day. Yet somehow you feel sad selling them off, though they were a little creepy and racist. In those dark mo-ments, if we believe in Him, we know that our luck will soon get hot again. You’ll get those figurines out of hock, as well as that antique revolver you sold off last month be-cause of, uh, sinning. And lo, The Lord has
the bullets for that rare pistol, and you will brandish it wildly at any methed-up flunky muscle who comes to recoup for the loan sharks of, uh, the Devil. Heck, you might even fire off a round to let them know that you mean business though you know the noise may alert the nuns in the convent.
Truly it is God who is the greatest gambler of all, the Kenny Rogers in the sky who knows always the times for holding and for folding. Let’s think about it. There are four gospels and four suits in cards. Two suits, red and black, like the wine and bread in communion. The Joker? Clearly, the Devil. The instruc-tions card is the Bible, which we so often for-get. Sometimes it can seem so far away from daily life, but we must play by the true rules of life and not by whatever rules the guys in the secret Russian poker games at the North Las Vegas Airport conference room play. I mean, the North Las Vegas Airport conference room of, uh, straying from His word. The Ace card? The card of faith, where believing rewards us with the 11, but doubt will bring us down to the 1. You have to believe, like you have to “see” the dice hitting that score you want at the craps table. You can always get on a roll with believing in Jesus. And it’s all in the wrist twist, like when he raised that widow’s son. See the connections?
Which is the luckiest gospel — if you will, the King card? Definitely John. In the first 11 chapters, John describes 7 miracles, 7 dec-larations, and 7 discourses. What does that get us? Blackjack. It’s all there if you look closely. Speaking of, anyone else notice that the carpets at Bellagio are looking a little run-down?
Sin is like a slot machine. We take our chances that we’re going to gain from it, but we always lose in the end. The house always wins. Especially the house of God. Besides, the real players know that the true money is in the card games and smart craps playing. Sure, you can make a killing on a fluke NCAA tourna-ment pick and you can bet that one 12 seed is always due to knock off a 5. But a Cinderella like Davidson making it past the Sweet Sixteen is a rare miracle, like the raising of the widow’s son, and sports betting is for the feeble of spir-it and intellect. God does not condone such squandering of His gifts.
So let’s pass that collection plate around one more time, I’m feeling lucky. But let me blow on it first. Amen.
David Hart, formerly an altar boy, is currently a writer for McSweeney’s, Monkeybicycle and other outlets.
64 D e s e r t Co m pa n i o n D ec e m b e r 2 01 1 IllustratIon BY AARON MCKINNEY
The sermons of “Father Lucky” are getting strangeby david hart
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