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Designer Hooks

Judy Larson

Findings can make or break

a design and most tutorials

for them are usually for

simple hooks and eyes. This

designer-style hook can be

made to match and enhance

any project, from bracelets

to necklaces. In fact, if you

turn the hook portion into

an eye loop, this would

make a great earring

finding! Just add a dangle!

The hook on this 5/8” wide and 1-3/16” long finding bends to the back so is hidden. You can turn the hook

and the connecting ring one half turn to use when the loops you connect to must be flat and visually part of

the design, as in the hook to the right.

Materials:

4” of 18 gauge round wire

up to 36” of 28 gauge round wire

Variety of beads from 2mm-5mm or one 10-

11mm flat coin bead

Tools:

Flat, chain and round nose pliers

6-Step barrel pliers

Flush cutter

½” mandrel

Ultra fine point Sharpie marker

Ruler

Directions: It is important to read through the directions before starting.

Step 1: Straighten

and cut a 4” piece of

18 gauge round

wire. Mark the wire

1½” in from one

end.

Step 2: Centering the mark between the two smallest steps on the 6-step barrel

pliers, bend the two wire ends down on either side of Step 2 of the pliers.

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Step 3: Cross the wire ends, using your fingers to push the crossed portion of the wires up to the barrel of the

pliers. This creates an eye that can be used as an attachment point to any project.

Step 4: Place the eye on a ½” mandrel. Bend the wire ends around the mandrel. Make sure that the wire that

comes from below the eye goes above the other wire on the opposite side of the mandrel.

Step 5: Use the tip of your round nose pliers to make a small loop on the end of the shorter wire. This loop

should end up exactly opposite the larger loop created in Steps 2 and 3. A line drawn from the center of one

loop to the center of the other loop should create two equal halves. Notice that it does not make any

difference which way the wires are crossed. Just make sure that your bent wire looks like one of those below

at this point. The small upper loop is on what will be the front of the hook.

Step 6: Grasp the long wire tail

between Step 3 and 4 of the 6-Step

barrel pliers. Make sure that Step 4 is

on top and large wire loop is pushed up

to Step 3 of the pliers. Use your fingers

to push the long wire tail up and over

Step 4 of the pliers until the wire tip

almost touches the large circle.

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Step 7: At this point, you need to decide how you will fill the interior of the large circle.

Single Bead:

If you would like to use a single flat 10-11mm bead, you will need a 3” piece of 28 gauge

wire to attach it on either end of the hook. This is straightforward so the directions for

this are not shown here.

Bent Wire Design:

A: Sketch out the

size of the interior

of the large circle.

Draw out a few

designs. Decide on

one. Initials are a fabulous way to add

your mark to your designs. This tutorial

gives directions for the heart.

B: Straighten and cut a 2” piece of 18 gauge wire. Mark the center.

Make a 90 degree bend on that mark. Both sides MUST be of equal

length.

C: Use Step 4 of the 6-step barrel

pliers to make a curl on each

wire end. You will have to bend

the first side out of the way to do

the second side.

D: Use the tips of your round nose pliers to curl

the ends of the wires into loose spirals.

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E: Straighten and cut a 30” piece of 28 gauge round wire. Bend it in

half. Center the lower point of the heart just above the small lower loop

of the hook frame. Slide one 28 gauge wire end through the loop and

the other wire end through the heart.

F: Wrap each wire end once around the

heart and the lower loop, ending on the

back. This should create three wraps

showing on the front of the hook.

G: Continue wrapping up the side of the large circle, pushing the

wraps together as you progress. When you reach the point where

the side of the heart touches the edge of the large circle, make

three wraps to secure the heart. Continue up the outer edge of the

large circle.

H: Continue wrapping the outer circle

until the wrapping is below the center of

the small upper loop. Pull the wrap wire

through the loop and back down into the

center of the large circle. Do this three

times. Trim the wrap wire off and press

the end into the space where the two 18

gauge wires cross.

I: Repeat Steps G and H to wrap the

other side. When you reach the end,

pull the wrap wire to the back and

around the hook, wrapping the hook 6

times. Trim the wrap wire off and press

the cut end into the 18 gauge hook wire.

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J: Use the tips of your round nose pliers to make a small loop

at the end of the hook. Bend the hook to the back side as

shown. You will want to lift the hook end slightly away from

the circle and heart to make it easier to slide onto a ring or

loop on the other end of the project you will be using it on.

You can be done now, or add a decorative bead as shown in

the next few steps.

K: Center a 3mm bead on a 6” piece of 28 gauge wire. Bend the wire down

on either side of the bead.

L: Slide the wire ends into the loops on either side of the top of the heart.

M: Cross the 28 gauge wires and pull the ends back up through the small

heart loops. Pull one wire end through the bead and back down through

the small loop to the back of the hook. Pull it back to the front.

N: Use the tips of your round nose pliers to gently press the 28 gauge wires

together below the bead.

O: Wrap the each wire 4-5 times tightly

around the pressed in wires at the base of the

bead, creating a “nest.” Trim the wires off and

tuck the ends under the base of the wire

wraps.

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Bead Filled Circle Hook:

A: Bend the hook wire down

into its final position behind

the circle. This will help you

decide where to position the

smaller beads. If you put

larger beads behind the hook,

you will have to bend it

farther away from the back of

the hook, which is less

streamlined.

B: Use the tips of your round nose pliers to

make a small loop at the end of the hook. Bend

the hook slightly away from the back of the

circle. This will make it easier to wrap the

beads into place. You can press it back down

later, if needed.

C: Choose the bead you would like to use to fill your circle.

Notice that the hook end and small bottom loop on the

gemstone filled circle are twisted ¼ turn so they can be

connected to loops that need to lay flat.

D: Cut an 18” piece of 28 gauge wire. Secure the end of the wire by wrapping it

10-12 times around one side of the frame at the bottom of the hook.

E: Pull the wrap wire through the lower loop, then

through the large loop. Repeat this three to four

times.

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F: Continue to wrap down the other side 10-12 times. From here on, work

from the back but continually check the front. Slide beads onto the wrap wire.

In this case, the bead sizes are 2.5mm, 4mm and 2.5mm. Pull the wrap wire to

the opposite side of the large circle. Add or

subtract beads as needed.

G: Wrap large circle 6-8 times, going toward the top of the hook. Find beads

to fit the space and slide them onto the wrap wire. In this case the beads

sizes are 5mm, 3mm, 4mm and 2.5mm. Pull the wire to the opposite side of

the circle. Note: Because a domed effect was desired with these beads, the

length of strung beads for this step was just a bit long. This was not the case

with the gemstone bead hook.

H: Wrap the outer frame up toward the hook. When you reach the small loop,

secure the front and back 18 gauge wires together by wrapping 3 times through the

loop.

I: Wrap 5-6 times down the side of the outer circle

frame. Pull the wire to the left. Find a bead to fit the

space to the left and slide it onto the wrap wire. In

this case, the bead size is 3mm.

J: Wrap the wire around the beaded wire to the left of the bead

you just put on. You will be wrapping between two beads to hold

the wrap wire in place. Find a bead to fit the space to the left and

slide it onto the wrap wire. In this case, the bead size is 3mm.

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K: Wrap the frame 6-10 times down toward the bottom of the circle. Pull

the wire to the right. Find beads to fit the space and slide them onto the

wrap wire. In this case, the bead sizes are 5mm and 2.5mm. Wrap the wire

around the beaded wire to the right of the beads you just put on. You will

be wrapping between two beads to hold the wrap wire in place.

L: Pull the wrap wire to the right. Find a bead to fit the space slide it

onto the wrap wire. In this case, the bead size is 4mm. Wrap the outer

frame 6-8 times up toward the hook.

M: Pull the wire toward the center of the circle. Find beads to fit the

space and slide them onto the wrap wire. In this case, the bead sizes are

4mm and 2.5mm. Secure the wrap wire end by wrapping it several times

on a wire between two beads. Trim the wire tail and tuck the end

between two beads.

N: Gently push the beads

toward the outside of the

hook to create a slight dome

effect. For the gemstone

version you will not do this.

O: Adjust the hook so that it is almost flush with the back of the

beaded section. It only needs to be pulled out far enough that

you will be able to hook it to the eye end of the project you use

it on.