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  • Eduved International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research ISSN 2348-6775 (Online) 2349-5480 (Print)

    1

    Vol. 01 Issue 07 Oct. 2014

    DIGITALIZATION OF MADHUBANI DESIGNS FOR TRANSFERRING ON APPARELS USING SCREEN PRINTING TECHNIQUE

    Ekta Sharma*, Manpreet Kalsy** and Dr. Susan Paul***

    *Assistant Professor, ** Student, ***Visiting Professor

    Textiles and Apparel Designing

    Ethelind School of Home Science Sam Higginbottom Institute of Agriculture, Technology and Sciences

    (Formerly Allahabad Agriculture Institute) (Deemed to-be-University), Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh

    ABSTRACT

    India had always been known as the land that portrayed cultural and traditional vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. Every region in India has its own style and pattern of art, which is generally known as folk art. Perhaps the best-known genre of Indian folk paintings is the Mithila (also called Madhubani) paintings from the Mithila region of Bihar state. Traditionally Madhubani paintings were done by hand which is tedious, time consuming and laborious process. But in due course of time with easy availability of different styles of printing, these paintings can be brought down on cloth by using various printing techniques. Hence in the present study an attempt was made to develop designs inspired from Madhubani paintings of Bihar for ladies kurtis, bedspreads and sarees.

    Total twenty designs, ten each for ladies kurtis and sarees were developed manually and these designs were subjected to visual evaluation by a panel of thirty judges for selection of two best designs from each category in order to apply these on various articles. Articles were printed using screen printing method. The total cost of printing ladies kurtis ranged between Rs. 456.6 to 469.1 where as for sarees Rs. 1476.27 to 834.83 depending on the screens involved and the colours used for printing of articles. The prepared articles were finally subjected to visual evaluation by fifty entrepreneurs in order to assess their acceptability. All the articles were highly appreciated by the entrepreneurs and they were also willing to accept these designs.

    Key words: Acceptability, CAD technology, Madhubani, Screen Printing, Visual evaluation

    INTRODUCTION

    Textile designing has been an ancient art and perhaps the most ancient craft of India. Textile designing is

    the most demanding and emerging field as it is full of scope and creativity but many individuals become

    quite lost when confronted with the task of finding "inspiration". An inspiration can come from any

    stimulus that starts the creative process. Sources of inspiration are literally everywhere, but more

    importantly; it is the designer's artistic sensibility and interpretive style that brings creative design into

    being virtually live. Any objects or things we see in our daily routine are possible design sources. These

    may include nature, temples, famous monuments, furniture, various kinds of toys, folk arts and crafts

    such as wall paintings, floor paintings, sculptures, carvings etc. They can also be created through

    adaptation of a specific design base and by fusion of different arts. The rich motifs and designs of the

  • Eduved International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research ISSN 2348-6775 (Online) 2349-5480 (Print)

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    Vol. 01 Issue 07 Oct. 2014

    various arts and crafts can be readily adapted into contemporary forms in an attempt to make them

    suitable to incorporate them into textile products. These sources of inspiration play a powerful role in

    the beginning of the design process and in research and strategic collection planning. They also play an

    essential role in the communication of design ideas, both among designers, and between designers and

    managers and buyers. India had always been known as the land that portrayed cultural and traditional

    vibrancy through its conventional arts and crafts. Every region in India has its own style and pattern of

    art, which is known as folk art. The folk and tribal arts of India are very ethnic and simple, and yet

    colorful and vibrant enough to speak volumes about the rich heritage. Folk art in India apparently has a

    great potential in the international market because of its traditional aesthetic sensibility and

    authenticity. Perhaps the best-known genre of Indian folk paintings is the Mithila (also called

    Madhubani) paintings from the Mithila region of Bihar state. The Madhubani in literal translation means

    Forest of Honey (Madhu-honey, Bans-forest or woods) These paintings are basically religious in nature.

    The paintings are done by women predominantly at home, in anointed areas like the prayer room. Hindu

    mythology is the main theme. The main figures in Madhubani paintings are adopted from nature and

    mythology.

    Madhubani paintings, although one of the most intricate art, still governs the entire fashion market.

    Even today, when the dressing styles and trends are changing continuously, the beauty and charisma of

    Madhubani art still captures the heart of people. Traditionally these paintings were done by hand which

    is tedious, time consuming and laborious process. But in due course of time with technological

    advancement, these designs directly can be created with the help of various softwares like corel draw,

    photoshop etc. The easy availability of different styles of printing, the prepared motifs and designs can

    be brought down on the cloth by using various printing techniques. Screen printing is one of the easiest

    printing techniques. In the present study the investigator tried to produce Madhubani designs on various

    articles by using screen printing technique.

    METHODOLOGY

    Collection of Madhubani Designs and Design development

    The Madhubani motifs were collected through literature survey, wall hangings, books, magazines and

    internet and total twenty designs, ten each for ladies kurties and ten for sarees were developed by

    arranging motifs in different way with CAD technology using two softwares ie. Corel draw and Adobe

    Photoshop.

    Digitizing the motifs using Corel draw: The process of digitizing the motifs involved three stages:

    Design input,

    Design processing and

    Design printing.

    The first stage is the input of design i.e. either creation of motifs or copying it by coloured scanner. On

    opening the corel-draw software the designer has two options either to create a new file or to open an

    existing one. For development of motif, the entire design can be imported in to the new blank document

    or by dragging the picture from its location to the task bar icon of corel draw and dropped on to the new

    blank document. While opening the new document, the name of file, height, width, size of paper,

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    Vol. 01 Issue 07 Oct. 2014

    primary colour mode, and resolution of the designs have been specified. Width and height of the design

    were required in specific unit of measurement such as inches, millimeter etc. Soon after giving command

    the CDR sheet with given specification is ready for design creation or editing. Editing of design includes

    modification of motifs, colour combinations by creating specific colour separations for printing. This

    could be done until one would not be satisfied with the final design. With the help of B-spline tool the

    outline of motif have been drawn. B -spline tool used to draw curved lines by setting control points that

    shaped the curve without breaking in to segments. Required shaping was done by the shape tool. Pen

    tool, free hand tool and outline pen tool were also used frequently. For final shaping and arrangement

    many tools from property bar were also used. After completing the motif, colours were filled with fill

    tool and colour eye dropper tool. Then the prepared motifs were arranged in the various apparels and

    handicraft items in desired arrangements. Once the design is ready, then designer has an option to take

    the simulation of the design produced or save the same as CDR or JPEG bitmaps file. For changing the

    corel draw file format (CDR) in to JPEG Bitmaps ready files were exported by changing the format to the

    preferred location. JPEG Bitmaps format was used to get the print out of the designs.

    Fig. 1 Process flow of digitizing the motifs using CAD software - Corel draw x5

    Visual evaluation of the developed designs

    All the developed designs were subjected to visual evaluation for selection of two best designs in each

    category i.e. ladies Kurtis and sarees by a panel of thirty judges. All designs were ranked according to

    their preferences obtained. The attributes assigned for evaluation of designs were colour combinations,

  • Eduved International Journal of Interdisciplinary Research ISSN 2348-6775 (Online) 2349-5480 (Print)

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    Vol. 01 Issue 07 Oct. 2014

    appropriateness of designs, arrangement of motifs and over all appearance of the design and five point

    rating scale developed by Premlata (1991) was used for the evaluation of the developed designs. 1, 2, 3,

    4 and 5 scores were assigned to those designs which attained poor, fair, good, very good a

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