1.ER - IS INTL T Trinidad & Tobago Inter-IslandANT& Ferry ServiceT RA ER - I SINT LTLSPA T& NDONORTATION C.LTD TRSP ANOROTATION C. Quality ServiceFamilyVacation

2. Contents Get Ready!Go! Contents & Credits1 Discover T&T Editors note 3 National Festivals24Avocat Falls, Trinidad Eco Spotlight 31Production teamTurtle Watching 31 Diving32Editor: Caroline TaylorConsulting Editor: Jeremy Taylor Get Set!Business34Design: Bridget van DongenDesign Assistant: Kevon Webster Investment Opportunities 35Photography: Ariann Thompson T&T in a Nutshell 6 Shopping38(unless otherwise credited)Sales: Denise Chin, Jacqueline Smith Time Capsule7 Sports40Research Assistance: Hazel Mansing,Ariann Thompson National Heroes 8 Weddings47Production: Joanne Mendes, National Identity 9Jacqueline SmithGeneral Manager: Halcyon Salazar Festival & Events Calendar 11Cover: a corbeaux (vulture) glides overthe Northern Range towards Port of Travel & Transport 16 Discover TobagoSpain; photo by Chris Anderson International Travel 16 Accommodation 48Printers: Printweb Caribbean Domestic Travel17 Real Estate 55 Tips & Tricks20 Food & Dining 56 Touring & Exploring 58 Sightseeing 58A publication of Media & EditorialProjects Ltd. (MEP) Eco Adventure 626 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port ofBeaches 64Spain, Trinidad & TobagoT: (868) 622-3821 / 5813 / 6138Arts & Entertainment68F: (868) 628-0639E: info@discovertnt.comW: www.discovertnt.comAnd connect with us online on: MapsDiscover Trinidad Trinidad 108Accommodation 69www.facebook.com/discovertnt Port of Spain110Real Estate 79 Northwest Peninsula 112 Food & Dining 80www.twitter.com/meppublishersNorth & Northeast113Touring & Exploring 84 Central114Sightseeing 84www.meppublishers.blogspot.com San Fernando 116Eco Adventure 88 South118Beaches 92 2012 Media & Editorial Projects(MEP) Ltd. All rights reserved. No partTobago 119Arts & Entertainment97of this publication may be reproduced inany form whatsoever without the priorScarborough120Carnival 103written consent of the publisher.www.discovertnt.com1 3. Sunset over Pigeon Point Beach2 4. Edit orsNot eEditors NoteWelcome! Using This Guide About DiscoverYouve made a wonderfulThe introductory section Get Published since 1991, this isdecision to discover TrinidadSet! gives you an overview ofour 23rd edition of Discoverand Tobago! Tobago is perfectthe history and lifestyle of the Trinidad & Tobago the onlyfor restoration: lazing on country. In the section, we firstlocal guide which debutspicture-perfect beachesshowcase the opportunities each year at Londons Worldor an escape into nature and experiences of both islandsTravel Market. Discovers alsowhether silently observing (Discover Trinidad & Tobago),the islands most sustainablythe islands diverse wildlife, before exploring in depth what produced guide. Startingor pushing your body to theyou can find in each island. Inin 2009, weve focused ourlimit while mountain biking or the back, weve produced mapsprint publication on thewindsurfing! Trinidadians work to help you in your discoveries! most important informationhard and play hard: the islandsyou need on the go whilean economic powerhouseemploying web offset printingand in some ways the festival technology. Thats savedcapital of the Caribbean. But nearly 3.5 million pagesthen there are oases like of paper, and reduced ourGrande Rivire, where you carbon footprint. MEP, ourcan spend the weekend turtlepublisher, also recycles paper,watching, kayaking and hiking e-waste, plastics, glass andin near perfect peace.aluminium as part of theircommitment to corporatesocial responsibility.iOur WebsitesMake sure to visit our new website, www.discovertnt.com, wherewe hope you will find everything you need to immerse yourselvesin every aspect of T&T life and culture. Join us on Facebook aswell www.facebook.com/discovertnt to stay connected to allthings T&T wherever in the world you are!Standards & FeedbackThe countrys tourism authorities run an annual inspection programme called the Trinidad &Tobago Tourism Industry Certification (TTTIC). A special logo is used to indicate approval. Currentinformation can be found at www.gotrinidadandtobago.com. Advertising in Discover is open toanybody, but that does not imply editorial endorsement, quality assurances, or participation in theTTTIC programme. We can assure you that every effort has been made to ensure that informationis correct at press time. But things change swiftly, so we can make no guarantees about ongoingaccuracy. If you have any suggestions or queries, we would welcome your feedback. www.discovertnt.com3 5. T&T in a NutshellAirports: ANR Robinson International(1,864 sq miles) or 105x80km (65x50 miles)Airport, Tobago (10km/7 miles fromTime Zone: GMT -4, EST +1Scarborough); Piarco International Airport, Government: parliamentary democracy;Trinidad (27km/17 miles from Port of Spain) ruling party the Peoples Partnership (PP)Capital: national capital, Port of Spain (pop comprising the United National Congress45,000; 270,000 metropolitan); Tobago (UNC), the Congress of the People (COP),capital, Scarborough (pop 17,000) the Tobago Organisation of the PeopleClimate: tropical. Dry season JanuaryMay,(TOP), the National Joint Action Committeewet JuneDecember (islands just south of(NJAC) and the Movement for Socialhurricane belt). Temperature range 7295FJustice (MSJ) under Prime Minister Kamla(2235C); average 83F (29C)Persad-Bissessar; President George MaxwellHighest Point: Trinidads El Cerro delRichards; Peoples National Movement mainAripo (940m/3,085ft); Tobagos Main Ridge opposition(549m/1,860ft)Language: English (official)Location: 11N, 61W. Trinidad & Tobago Population: 1.2 million (July 2011, est, CIA):33km (21 miles) apart, 10km (7 miles) from40% Indian, 37.5% African, 21.7% mixed.Venezuelan coast50,000 (primarily African descent) in TobagoSize: Tobago 300km2 (116 sq miles) or Religion: Roman Catholic 26%, other48x16km (30x10 miles). Trinidad 4,828km2Christian 31.6%, Hindu 22.5%, Muslim 5.8% i QRC (Queens Royal College)6 6. Time Capsule Time Capsule c 15,0001,000 BC: islandsTobago quelled (limited franchise) part of South America; settled1806: first Chinese workers1931: Piarco International by Amerindiansimported to Trinidad Airport opens 1498: Christopher Columbus1807: slave trading abolished193541: first steelpans lands in Trinidad on July 31, in British empireemerge in Laventille, Trinidad claims island for Spanish and 1808: great fire of Port of1937: oilfield and labour names it after Catholic HolySpain destroys much of the citystrikes led in southern Trinidad Trinity 1814: Tobago ceded to Britishby Tubal Uriah Buzz Butler 1596: Tobago claimed by under Treaty of Paris1940: Crown Point Airport British 1816: six companies of freeopens in Tobago; national 16271650: Courlanders settle blacks from the United Statesairline British West Indies Tobagos west coast near(mainly Baptist) settle in Airways (BWIA) commences Plymouth, and Dutch the eastsouthern Trinidad, and one inoperations 1699: Trinidad AmerindiansTobago 1941: Chaguaramas peninsula rebel against Capuchin18348: slavery abolished: leased to United States for missionaries (Arena Uprising) slaves apprenticed (1834) then 99 years; American military 1757: Trinidads Spanishemancipated (1838) remain through World War II governor moves capital to Port18341917: indentured labour 1945: public emergence of of Spain from St. Josephimported to Trinidad fromsteelbands; universal suffrage 17689: first Tobago Assembly other islands, China, Portugal,1951: repeal of ordinance established; ScarboroughSyria, Lebanon, and Indiaprohibiting activities of made islands capital 1857: first oil well drilled inSpiritual Shouter Baptist 1776: oldest forest reserve Trinidad near Pitch Lake faith in western hemisphere 185884: Trinidad governor 1956: self-government designated in Tobagoriminalises Carnival activitiesunder Eric Williams Peoples 1781: French seize Tobago,1881: Canboulay Riots in National Movement (PNM) convert it to sugar colonyTrinidad 1958: islands join short-lived 1783: Spanish governor1884: Hosay Riots in Trinidad; Federation of West Indies Chacns Cedula de PoblacinTobagos sugar industry1960: Trinidad campus of entices Catholic white and free collapsesUniversity of the West Indies coloured settlers to Trinidad 188998: Tobago merged with(UWI) established with land incentives; rapid Trinidad; Tobago Assembly1962: islands leave Federation, development beginsdisbandedgain independence from 1790: great fire of 1903: Water Riots in Port of Britain Scarborough destroys much ofSpain; Red House burns down1963: Hurricane Flora downtown; hurricane ravages 1908: commercial oil devastates Tobago islandproduction begins in southern1970: Black Power uprising 1797: Trinidad captured by SirTrinidad in Trinidad Ralph Abercrombys British1914: first calypso recorded in1974: Garfield Blackman (Ras fleet Trinidad Shorty I) releases first soca 1801: massive slave uprising in 1925: first national elections album www.discovertnt.com 7 7. Time Capsule1976: new republicanconstitution; president replacesBritish monarch as head ofstate Jamaat al Muslimeen; PNM regains power the following year 1995: coalition governmenteconomic boom20089: Trinidad & Tobago hostthe 5th Summit of the Americasand the Commonwealth Heads1980: Tobago House ofbetween United Nationalof Government MeetingAssembly restored; islands Congress (UNC), under Basdeo 2010: new five-partyenjoy economic prosperityPanday, and the NAR unseatscoalition Peoples Partnership1983: oil prices fall, crippling the PNMgovernment ousts PNM atlocal economy2002: PNM regains powergeneral and local elections,1986: National Allianceunder Patrick Manning, endingwith countrys first femalefor Reconstruction, underthe hung parliament after thePrime Minister taking office;Tobagonian ANR Robinson, 2001 elections Caribbean Airlines completes HeroesNational Heroesunseats PNM2007: Caribbean Airlines purchase of Air Jamaica;1990: unsuccessful coupreplaces BWIA as nationalcountry struggles withattempt by Afro-Islamist carrier; record oil prices fuelstagnating economy. iSomeStephen Ames: top 25 golferHasely Crawford: nationswith four major PGA titles,first Olympic gold medallist,De Triniincluding historic victory overwinning the mens 100mall-star field with Tiger Woods(1976)Accentat the Players ChampionshipWendy Fitzwilliam: Miss(2006) Universe 1998Ato Boldon: four-timeHeather Headley: Trinidad-Last year, CNN listed Olympic medallist (2 silver, 2 born Tony Award- andTrinidad as having thebronze for 100m and 200m,Grammy-winning singer and10th Sexiest Accent in1996 and 2000), and 200m actressthe World, saying: For World Championship goldCLR James: prolific writer,fetishists of oddball medallist (1997) historian, cultural and politicalsexuality, the CaribbeanKelly-Ann Baptiste:figure, and leading voice inisland of Trinidad offers sprinter who won the bronzePan-Africanist movementan undulating, melodicmedal in the 100m WorldGiselle La Ronde-West: Missgumbo of pan-African, Championships 2011 World 1986French, Spanish, Creole George Bovell III: nationsGeoffrey Holder: Trinidad-and Hindi dialects that,first Olympic medallist in born, Tony Award-winningwhen adapted forswimming, winning Olympic(1975) theatre and film actor,English, is sex on a pogo bronze in the 200m individualdancer, painter, director, andstick...[a] rubber life raftmedley (2004)designer. Best known on filmbobbing on a sea of steel Janelle Penny Commissiong: for roles in Dr. Dolittle (1967)drums. Miss Universe 1977 and Annie (1982)8 8. NationalIdentityCoat of arms: featuresnational birds scarlet ibis(Trinidad), cocrico (Tobago)and hummingbird; threeships of Columbus and TrinityHills three sisters peaks;fruited coconut palm native toTobago; and national motto:together we aspire, togetherwe achieveNational anthem: Forgedfrom the love of libertyin the fires of hope andprayer, with boundless faith Wendy Fitzwilliam (Shirley Bahadur)in our destiny we solemnlyLennox Kilgour: Olympicthe only artist to have sevendeclare: side by side webronze medallist insingles on the Billboard stand, islands of the blueweightlifting (1952) Hot 100 at the same time,Caribbean Sea. This, our nativeBrian Lara: multiple record- and the first female artistland, we pledge our lives toholding cricketer with two to be included on MTVsthee. Here every creed andtest match score records (375Annual Hottest MC List. Herrace find an equal place, andruns not out in 1994 and 400 awards include: several BETmay God bless our Nation.not out in 2004); highest firstAwards, a UK Asian Music (Patrick Castagne, 1962)class score (501 not out, also Award, a NARM Award forin 1994); all-time leading run Breakthrough Artist of thescorer in test cricket Year, Teen Choice Award,Josanne Lucas: Tobago-born and MTV Video Music Award,sprinter, and the islands first among other nominationsfemale World ChampionshipVS Naipaul: Trinidad-born,medallist (400m hurdles in knighted (1990) Nobel Prize2009)winner (Literature, 2000)National flag: red (fire, vitalityPeter Minshall: mas designer,Claude Noel: Roxboroughof the sun); white (water,multiple winner of Band of native and nations firstpurity and power of thethe Year titles, winner of boxing World Champion, ocean); and black (earth, oneT&Ts first Emmy Award for lifting the WBAs Worldpeople united on islands soil)costuming of the 2002 Winter Lightweight title in 1981National flower: chaconiaOlympics opening ceremonyBilly Ocean: born Leslie (wild poinsettia or prideNicki Minaj: Trinidad-born,Charles in Trinidad, inter-of Trinidad and Tobago), aUS-based Platinum Record-national pop star with hits like flaming red forest flower. iholding hip-hop star. She is Caribbean Queen (1984) www.discovertnt.com 9 9. HeroesJean Pierre: scoredsecond World Championthe most goals in theRichard Thompson:1979 World Netball double 2008 Olympic silverChampionships to leadmedallist (mens 100m andT&T to victory, the firstmens 4x100m relay)country to host and win theKwame Ture: born StokelychampionshipsCarmichael in Trinidad,Renny Quow: Tobago-bornformer prime minister ofsprinter, winning the islands the Black Panthers, leaderfirst medal (bronze) in theof the All-African Peoplesmens 400m at the WorldRevolutionary PartyChampionships (2009) Rodney Wilkes: nationsRia Ramnarine: nationsfirst Olympic medallist forfirst female World weightlifting (silver in 1948,Champion (2005), and WIBAbronze in 1952)Mini Flyweight title holderDwight Yorke: Tobago- Talk de Talk (2009)Arthur NR Robinson: born football star and leading striker for UK teamsformer President of thelike Manchester United Bacchanal: scandalous, republic, launched UNand Aston Villa. He was an social commotion, aGeneral Assembly resolutionintegral part of Trinidad rowdy eventfor the establishment of the & Tobagos heartbreaking Fte: partyInternational Criminal Court World Cup campaign in Lime: hang out withGiselle Salandy: won her 1989, falling just one game friendsfirst junior WBA and WBC short of qualification. Maco: to be nosy (or World Light Middleweight Seventeen years later, he someone who is nosy) titles in 2006, adding IWBFcaptained the national team Mas: Carnival, and WIBA titles by 2007. to an impressive debut masquerade Died tragically in 2009at the 2006 World Cup in Wine: both a noun andLeslie Tiger Stewart:Germany, where the islands verb, describing sensual lifted the 1986 WBA Lightmade history as the smallest Trinbagonian dancing;Heavyweight belt; islands country ever to qualify. i ask for a demonstration!10 10. CalendarofCalendar of EventsEventJanuarys 1 (public holiday): New Years Day Carnival season begins Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring Garden, Plymouth and Mt. Pleasant Sailing season begins Tobago Carnival Caravan 23: Chinese New Year (year of the dragon)February Carnival countdown begins Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Hope, Adelphi, Buccoo, Franklyn and Bon Accord Tobago Carnival Caravan Carnival cooldowns Tobago Carnival Regatta (Tobago) 17: Soca Monarch finals (Trinidad) 18: Panorama finals (Trinidad) 19: Dimanche Gras (Trinidad) 20-21: Carnival Monday and TuesdayMarch Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Mt. St. George, Mason Hall, Roxborough, Bon Accord; Missionary Love Feast in Moriah on Palm Sunday Jazz Artists on the Greens (St. Augustine, Trinidad) Phagwa (Holi) Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament Trinidad & Tobago Golf Open Turtle nesting season begins 30 (public holiday): Spiritual Shouter Baptist Liberation Day commemorates the end of the colonial ban on the Shouter Baptist faith, a fusion of African and Christian traditions, with performances and religious observances Carnival (Keown Thomas) www.discovertnt.com 11 11. AprilMayJune 69 (with public Maypole Festival (Tobago)3 (public holiday): Corpus holidays): long Easter Beacon Cycling SeriesChristi celebrated by weekend features hot Harvest Festivals (Tobago):Catholics in honour of the cross buns, horse racing Whim, Delaford, Bellesacramental Eucharist at the Santa Rosa track in Garden and Mason HallGanga Dhaara River Festival: Arima (Trinidad), and goat La Divina Pastora (Siparia,honours the descent of and crab races in Tobagos Trinidad)Indias sacred River Ganges Mt. Pleasant (Monday) andRainbow Cup International(Blanchisseuse, Trinidad) Buccoo (Tuesday) Triathlon (Tobago) Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Jazz Artists on the Greens Bocas Lit Fest: The Trinidad Lambeau, Bloody Bay and (Pigeon Point, Tobago) & Tobago Literary Festival Roxborough Jazz on the Beach (Tobago) Red Earth Eco Arts FestivalJunior Tobago Heritage Pan Jazz in de Yard(Trinidad) Festival Tobago Jazz Experience Trinidad & Tobago FashionSt. Peters Day Fishermans Harvest Festival (Tobago): Week Festival (Tobago) Goodwood 2325: Trade & InvestmentWeBeat Festival (St. James, Pan in the 21st CenturyConvention (Trinidad)Trinidad) Point Fortin Borough Day 30 (public holiday): Indian19 (public holiday): Labour (Trinidad): full week of Arrival DayDay, marked by trade union Jouvert, mas, pan andmarches and gatherings in parties Fyzabad (Trinidad)12 12. EventsRainbow Cup Triathlon TobagoJuly AugustCharlotteville Fishermans Fest (Tobago) 1 (public holiday): Emancipation DayHarvest Festivals (Tobago): Castara andArima Borough Day: Jouvert, steelpan,Black Rock calypso and parties marking the boroughsJazz on the Hill (Trinidad)anniversary (Trinidad)Prime Ministers Charity Golf ClassicBest Village competition begins, runs(Tobago) through NovemberSoca for Summer and other bigCarib Great Raceconcerts featuring local and Castara Fishermans Fte (Tobago)international starsHarvest Festival (Tobago): SpeysideSouth Caribbean Open GolfMuhtadi International Drumming Festival:Tournament (Tobago)started in Canada by Trinidad-bornSteelpan Music Festival (Trinidad) Muhtadi Thomas, and highlights differentTobago Games cultures around the call of the drumsTobago Heritage Festival (Tobago)Tour & Explore T&T: displays, tours, and Osun River Festival: marked by Orisalive entertainment, hosted by the TDCdevotees celebrating the goddess of love,Great Fte Weekend (Tobago)fertility and inland waters Santa Rosa Festival (Arima, Trinidad) 31 (public holiday): Independence Daywww.discovertnt.com13 13. 14 14. Event sSeptemberNovember TBD (public holiday): Eid-ul-Fitr TBD (public holiday): Divali International Open Water Swim Best Village competition finals Horse racing classics in Arima: Royal Oak Derby,Harvest Festivals (Tobago): Plymouth, Santa Rosa Oaks and Caribbean Champion Stakes Black Rock, Les Coteaux, Moriah, (Trinidad)Scarborough, Montgomery Panyard SensationsPan is Beautiful Parang season: begins with competition at Scarborough Cup Golf Tournament months end, runs through December (Trinidad) (Tobago) San Fernando Jazz Festival (Trinidad) Tobago Christmas Caravan Tobago Fest: parties, street parade and Jouvert Tobago International Gospel Festival Trinidad & Tobago Film Festival Turtle watching season ends 24 (public holiday): Republic Day DecemberOctober Assembly Day: Tobago House of Amerindian Heritage Day, where descendantsAssembly celebrates and awards from around the region gather for a smoke Tobagonians achievements, along ceremony and street procession in Arima with exhibitions and a sports and (Trinidad)recreation day Blue Food Festival (Tobago) Paramin Parang Festival (Trinidad) Coast-2-Coast Adventure Race (Trinidad) Tobago Flying Colours: annual kite European Film Festival (Trinidad) flying festival in Plymouth Harvest Festival (Tobago): Patience HillHosay (Trinidad) National Tourism Week 25 (public holiday): Christmas Day Ramleela festival 26 (public holiday): Boxing Day, Steelpan & Jazz Festival (Trinidad) marked with horse racing and parties Taste T&T: the Trinidad & Tobago Culinary FestivalMany dates are set just before the events are scheduled, and are always subject to change or cancellation. iLeft Divali celebrations are held annually in November and feature the lighting of oil-filled, clay deyaswww.discovertnt.com15 15. Travel TransportTravel & &TransportWater taxi to San FernandoInternational TravelBy AirScheduled flights are operated by Aeropostal, American Airlines, Avior, British Airways, CaribbeanAirlines, Condor, Continental, Copa, LIAT, Martin, Monarch, Surinam Airways, and Virgin Atlantic.Others offer charter flights. By SeaCruise Ships: the peak cruise ship season is NovemberApril, with visits fromFred Olsen, Hapag-Lloyd Cruises, Holland America, Ocean Village, Oceana,P&O, Princess, Regent Seven Seas, Saga Travel, Seabourn, Sea Dream,Silversea, Thomson, and Windstar linesYachts & Sail Boats: with its well-serviced marinas and boatyards,Chaguaramas, Trinidad is the hub of yachting activity, with strings ofmaintenance and repair yards and marinas. There are no official anchoragesites in Tobago, but Mt. Irvine Bay, Grafton Beach, Store Bay andEnglishmans Bay are popular locations. On the southeast coast, Anse Bateauis a good anchorage and fuelling point.16 16. Travel SmartEntry Requirements Legal, registered taxis A passport valid for three months beyond intended stay have licence plates Non-residents require documentation of return or onward beginning with H andtravel and a valid local address are unmetered. ConfirmVisas are generally not required for visits up to 30 days the fare in advance, andFor yacht arrivals, clearance certificate from last port of call for airport transfers and vessels registration certificate (or authorisation for check the approveduse) required when checking in with Customs & Immigration rates on display at the at CrewsInn in Chaguaramas, Trinidad; or Scarborough or taxi stands.Charlotteville in Tobago.Domestic Air & Sea BridgesAirDaily flights between Trinidad and Tobago (20mins, TT$300 round trip) are operated by CaribbeanAirlines (625-7200, www.caribbean-airlines.com).Sea Cairbbean Airlines operates daily flights betweenTrinidad and Tobago (Giancarlo Lalsingh)Daily inter-island service between Port of Spainand Scarborough is operated by the Port Authorityof Trinidad & Tobago (www.patnt.com), andintra-island service between Port of Spain and SanFernando is operated by National InfrastructureDevelopment Company (www.nidco.co.tt). Water Taxi (45 mins) to San Fernando: TT$15 one-way. Infants under the age of one travel free and senior citizens (65 and over) travel free on off-peak sailing times Warrior Spirit Ferry (5.5 hrs) to Tobago: TT$160 (cabin), TT$75 return (economy). Children 311 years half price; children under three and senior citizens (65 and over) travel free T&T Express and T&T Spirit Fast Ferries (2.5 hrs) to Tobago: TT$100 return. Children 311 years half price; children under three and senior citizens (65 and over) travel free.www.discovertnt.com 17 17. Travel &Transport Ground Transport The Public Transportation ServicesMaxi Taxis Corporation (PTSC: www.tsc.co.tt) operates scheduled bus services (TT$212) alongside privately operated, unscheduled maxi and route taxis (TT$215). These 1225 seat minibuses operatesimilar set routes like route taxis, departing Airport Transfersdowntown Port of Spain from City Gate;San Fernando from near Kings Wharf; andlower Scarborough opposite the port. Authorised taxis operate outside arrivalsBright colour bands indicate service areas: halls at Piarco and Crown Point airports.Black (San FernandoPrinces Town): Busesconnections to MayaroBlue (throughout Tobago)Brown (San FernandoLa Romaine They operate from hubs in Port of Spain, SipariaPoint Fortin) Chaguanas, and Kings Wharf, San FernandoGreen (Port of SpainCurepe (Trinidad); and Sangsters Hill, Scarborough ChaguanasSan Fernando): runs from City (Tobago).Gate; lower end of Southern Main Road(for San Fernando) and Eleanor Street Car Rental(for Port of Spain) in ChaguanasRed (Port of SpainArima): connectionsto Blanchisseuse, and Matelot via Sangre Local and international companies operateGrande nationwide (see the Touring & ExploringYellow (Port of SpainDiego Martin sections). Chaguaramas). Route TaxisTour Operators These stop to pick up or put down passengers as necessary, servicing specific routes from designated taxi stands. You can get taxis to several destinations from See the Touring & Exploring sections. i hubs in Port of Spain, Chaguanas and San Fernando (in Trinidad); and Scarborough (Tobago). See our maps at the back of this book for more information.18 18. www.discovertnt.com www.discovertnt.com 19 19. Tips&&TricksTips TricksPracticalities Currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$); US$1= TT$6.4 (floating) Driving: on the left. Trinidad speed limits 80kph (50mph) highways and 55kph (34mph) settled areas; 50kph (32mph) in Tobago. Seatbelts required. Visitors can drive up to 90 days on valid foreign/international licences Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz Money: ABMs (ATMs), credit/debit cards and travellers cheques in general use Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at hotels; VAT 15% on goods and services Water: tap water is safe to drink (boil to be even safer); bottled water is widely available.Media & Communications Country phone code: +868 Stay Safe Mail: TTPost national mail service; plus FedEx, DHL, UPS and others Landline telephone: Telecommunications Services of Trinidad & Tobago (TSTT) andAlways: drive with extreme care and practise FLOW. Prepaid international phone cards defensive driving; leave valuables (jewellery, available money, passports, credit cards, etc) at home Mobile telephone: bmobile (TSTT) andor well concealed; walk in company; lock your Digicel operate on GSM networks; prepaidvehicle; lock your room/house door; keep SIM cards available for unlocked phones windows closed at night or if you are going Press: three daily national newspapersout; be aware of your surroundings; raise an Express, Guardian, Newsday, several alarm and head to the nearest police station weeklies and one tri-weekly if you suspect you are being followed Radio: 37 FM stations; two AM stations Television: 12 local stations, five free-to-air Never: venture into deserted or unfamiliar (NCC-4, CCN TV6, Gayelle, CNC3 and C-TV), areas alone; wear extravagant jewellery; seven available only via cable (ACTS, IBN,leave handbags or wallets lying around; use ieTV, Parliament Channel, Synergy, Tobago an ABM if you sense someone suspicious Channel 5, Win-TV); some only available onnearby (if your card gets stuck, call the bank one islandimmediately); leave laptop computers or Public Wi-Fi: Piarco Airport; Rituals coffeeother valuables in your car; leave car windows shops (nationwide); Sweet Lime Restaurant down when stopping, especially at night; (Woodbrook); Trincity Mall (food court);engage in any altercations with strangers. and a growing number of other locations.20 20. www.discovertnt.com 21 21. In case of Emergency: Ambulance (public hospitals): 811 Police: 999 or 555 (Trinidad); 639-2520/5590 (Tobago) EMS (emergency medical services): 624-4343 (north Trinidad), 653-4343 (south/central Trinidad), 639-4444 (Tobago) Fire: 990 Hyperbaric Medical Facility: 660-4369 (Roxborough, Tobago).Travel SmartBargain Hunting Driving: gas stations areHotel rooms average US$125 a night, guesthouses $65; but concentrated arounddiscounted rates and packages are often available particularly in urban areas and majorthe current global economic climate. Peak season is December towns, so make sure youApril, and rates increase dramatically around Carnival time. top up your tank beforeIsland-wide, last-minute rooms are usually available, make sure you go exploring. If you you book ahead for any international events and conferences, plan to drive into the or traditionally popular periods like Easter, Carnival, Christmas mountains or off-road, and New Years, the Jazz Festival and holiday weekends where consider a 4WD vehicle.Trinidadians and expats flock to Tobago to unwind and let loose. Drive with extreme Visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com and www.visittobago.gov caution at night, andfor current deals and offers. be prepared that someSustainable Travel areas may not have adequate street lighting Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am5pmBuy local CDs, books and DVDs from authorised retailers or 10am6pm where(not pirated copies); and purchase locally produced food and available, but not atsouvenirs (not any made from endangered species) all beaches. Red flags Fly carbon neutral: most airlines allow you to offset carbon indicate unsafe bathingdioxide emissions from your flight areasMind your gas: choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs Sunscreen and insect when renting (or buying) a car; drive within the speed limit; repellent are essential dont let your car idle; keep your tires inflated; try to carpool; tropical sun can quickly and when you can, walk or cycle give light skins a bad Recycle: Ace, Carib Glass, Piranha, Recycling in Motion (RIM) and burn, even through SWMCOL process plastic, glass, aluminium, paper, cardboard cloud, and mosquito- and electronics (e-waste); some sponsor receptacles around the born illnesses likeislands dengue fever are still Reduce: turn off electrical devices when you dont need them; health threats.avoid plastic bags and styrofoam; buy and consume only whatyou need; reuse when you can. i22 22. Fesivalst Festivals Trinbagonians love to celebrate and the islands religious and cultural diversity means that they dont have to look very hard for a reason to do so. The islands have more national holidays than almost anyone else in the world, with 14 excluding Carnival Monday and Tuesday which are unofficial holidays. Heres a roster of T&Ts main reasons to celebrate life, cultureand time away from work!Amerindian Heritage DayDescendants from around the region gather for a smoke ceremony and streetprocession in Arima on 14 October to honour the heritage of Caribs, Arawaks andother Amerindian groups. Blue Food Festival ( Tobago) This unique event highlights the use of local root crops, with specific focus on dasheen. Dasheen can turn varying shades of blue and indigo when cooked, so the expression blue food has become a catchall phrase for all root crops, including sweet potato, cassava, yams, etc. The event is hosted each October by the Bloody Bay, LAnse Fourmi and Parlatuvier village councils. A blue food cooking competition is the highlight of the event, as skilled cooks vie for prizes based on their ability to create fine dishes from dasheen: bread, cookies, lasagne, and even ice cream. The festival includes a cultural show, a mini zoo and sometimes a queen show.CarnivalThe Mecca of Carnival is Trinidad (see our coverage in the Discover Trinidad section).Tobagonians enjoy a more laid back season which focuses on the theatrical andfolk elements. Most play traditional mud mas, but others play pretty mas in oneof the 30-odd costumed bands. The Carnival Caravan, Soca Spree, Junior Carnivalcompetition (Roxborough), Soca Under the Samaan Tree, THAs Inter-departmentQueen and Calypso Show, the Roxborough Afro-Queen and Windward CalypsoShow, are all staple seasonal events, in Tobago. Corpus Christi (National Holiday) Catholics process through Port of Spain as a public profession of faith, a practice dating back to Spanish colonial days. For most, however, this June festival is a traditional day for planting crops, as it is believed that it always rains on Corpus Christi.Right The spectacle that is Trinidad Carnival (Chris Anderson) 24 23. www.discovertnt.com 25 24. FesivalstDivali (National Holiday)Celebrated according to the moon, this Hindu festival honours Mother Lakshmi (goddess of light,beauty, riches and love) and celebrates the return of Lord Rama from exile: thousands of flickeringdeyas light his way. The Ramleela, theatrical re-enactments of stories from the Hindu scriptures, takesplace just before Divali (usually in October). Hindus across Trinidad attend the outdoor spectacles,which involve bright costumes and an epic finale. Felicity in central Trinidad is among the most popularvenues. In the nine days leading up to Divali, Trinidadians of all ethnicities and religions visit the DivaliNagar site in Chaguanas, with hundreds taking part in the breathtaking lighting of deyas at dusk onDivali day itself. Eid-ul-Fitr (National Holiday) This Muslim festival celebrates the end of the holy month of Ramadan (the ninth month of the Muslim year, according to the moon), a period of prayer and fasting from dawn to dusk. Morning communal worship in mosques and large open spaces throughout the country is followed by alms-giving and Salat, when people visit with family and friends, exchanging gifts and sweets. Sweets are shared with non-Muslim friends and neighbours, among whom sawine, a milk-based vermicelli dessert, is a holiday favourite.Emancipation Day (National Holiday)Celebrated on 1 August each year, it commemorates the abolition of slavery in 1838. The locale of theEmancipation Day celebrations is the Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation Village in Port of Spain, whichfeatures lectures, exhibitions of African art, a trade exposition and live entertainment. There is also astreet procession canboulay or kanbule through the street of Port of Spain. Goat & Crab Racing Festival ( Tobago) Started almost 80 years ago, racing goats was Tobagos answer to the colonial tradition of racing horses. The action takes place on Easter Monday and the Tuesday following at Mt. Pleasant and Buccoo (the main location). The influence of horse racing is still evident: there are stables, trainers, live commentators, and jockeys who run alongside their prized animals, whips in hand.Great Fte & Great RaceThe Great Race (August) is a major event that draws Trinidadians to Tobago in droves. First held in1969, this 84-mile speedboat race from Trinidads Gulf of Paria to Scarborough in Tobago ends in theultimate beach party (which starts well before the boats reach the finish line and ends in the weehours of the next morning). The race starts early, and the first boats normally arrive at about 9amon the beach in Tobago. Originally tied to the Great Race festivities, Tobagos Great Fte Weekend(July/August) is now a separate five-day beach party at Store Bay, Pigeon Point and Mt. Irvine.26 25. Goat racing in Tobago (Edison Boodoosingh) Independence Day (National Holiday) Celebrated on 31 August each year, this marks Trinidad & Tobagos independence from Britain in 1962. The day starts with a morning parade of protective services through the streets of Port of Spain and Scarborough. A National Awards ceremony honours outstanding citizens. At night fireworks displays are held throughout the islands, most notably at the Queens Park Savannah. There are huge concerts and an Independence Day Cycling Classic.Indian Arrival Day (National Holiday)Arrival day on 30 May commemorates the arrival of the first Indian workers toTrinidad on the Fatel Razak in 1845. Communities re-enact the arrival of this groupon beaches around the country. Outstanding members of the Indo-Trinidadiancommunity are rewarded for their contributions during celebrations which involvemusic and dancing. The Divali Nagar site in Chaguanas is a focal point. La Divina Pastora A Catholic feast and procession celebrated in Siparia each year on the second Sunday after Easter, in which Hindus also participate. A wooden statue of a black Virgin Mary, the Divine Shepherdess decorated with flowers and dressed in white, is processed through the streets. Hindus revere the statue as Siparee Kay Mai and join the procession.PhagwaAlso known as Holi, the Hindu spring festival is held in March, characterised byparticipants dousing one another in colourful vegetable dyes known as abir.Traditional folksongs called chowtals are sung to the pulsating rhythms of dholakdrums. Especially popular is the Childrens Phagwa celebration at the TunapunaHindu School.www.discovertnt.com 27 26. FesivalstRamleela (CafMoka)Prime Ministers Best Village Trophy CompetitionTen counties in Trinidad and Tobago vie for the titles on offer in the Prime Ministers Best Villagetrophy competition. This heats up at mid-year, and culminates in October/November. Villages competein various aspects of folk tradition, including food, storytelling, Carnival, dance, music, theatre and theselection of the Best Village Queen, La Reine Riv.RamleelaAlso known as Ramdilla and Ramlila, this nine-day festival precedes Divali. Portions ofHindu scripture about the life of Lord Rama are re-enacted with music and dancing. Thebest-known celebrations are held in Couva and Felicity, in central Trinidad. Red Earth Eco Arts Festival ( Trinidad) Hosted at natural oases like Chaguaramas and Blanchisseuse, the festival raises environmental awareness through environmental and arts events. It is held around World Environment Day (5 June).Republic Day (National Holiday)Observed on 24 September, marks the adoption in 1976 of a new Republicanconstitution for Trinidad & Tobago in which the President replaced the BritishQueen as the head of state and the first meeting of Parliament under the newconstitution. Events include the Hyundai Open Water Classic at Maracas Bay(Trinidad), and the Republic Day Cycling Challenge and 5K Fun Run. 28 27. Santa Rosa Festival ( Trinidad) Fesivals t A month-long Amerindian/Catholic festival in August commemorating the death of St. Rose de Lima, the Roman Catholic patron saint of the New World. It begins with the firing of a cannon on 1 August from Calvary Hill in Arima and ends on the Sunday following the feast day of St. Rose (23 August). A statue of Santa Rosa de Lima is borne through the streets of Arima in a procession involving members of Trinidads Carib peoples, including the Carib Queen, and members of the Roman Catholic faith.Spiritual (Shouter) Baptist Liberation Day(National Holiday)Observed on 30 March, the holiday celebrates the repeal of the colonial-eraShouter Prohibition Ordinance of 1917, which banned the activities of this Afro-Christian religion.Tobago Culinary FestivalProduced each May by the Tourism Department of the Tobago House of Assembly(THA), this free international culinary event invites you to Pigeon Point to sampledishes from around the world, and especially those native to Tobago.Tobago Harvest & Fishermans FestivalsHarvests started off as thanksgiving celebrations by village farmers. Today, thesefestvals always held on a Sunday have mushroomed into massive villagecookouts involving farmers and non-farmers, locals and visitors alike. Fishermansfestivals take place in the coastal villages during the year, mainly on St. Peters Day(29 June). Like the Harvest festivals, the days begin with church services in themorning and end with eating, drinking, and partying in the night! Tobago Heritage Festival The Tobago Heritage Festival was started in 1987 and is dedicated to preserving the cultural traditions of the people of Tobago. Aside from the opening and closing nights shows, most of the other productions take you to a village in Tobago, where you are introduced to the dances, food and customs particular to that village. Each year has a specific theme that all presentations invoke. Some of the most distinctive events include The Ole Time Tobago Wedding in Moriah, Folk Tales and Superstitions in Golden Lane and Lekoto, and Games We Used to Play. The festival runs from mid-July to 1 August. www.discovertnt.com29 28. FesivalstTobago Jazz ExperiencePreviously known as the Tobago Jazz Festival (first held in 2005) this second incarnation started in2009. Held at Pigeon Point Heritage Park, it showcases talents from many musical genres, includingcalypso, soca, chutney, Latin, contemporary and of course jazz. The Experience is normally held duringthe last week of April, starting on a Thursday and culminating on the Sunday night. During the fourdays, events are held throughout the island like Jazz on the Beach at Mt. Irvine, which has specialappeal to jazz purists. In the past, international headliners have included Chaka Khan, Erykah Badu, Elton John, Stevie Wonder, Mary J. Blige, Sting, George Benson, and Diana Ross.Muhtadi International DrummingFestival ( Tobago)Started in Canada by Trinidad-born Muhtadi Thomas in 2000, the festival has had a two-day Tobago edition each August since2005. It celebrates the drum in all its forms through the talentsofof drummers from all over the globe. The event includes workshops during the day and live performances at night. Inthe past, it has drawn performers from the Ivory Coast,Guadeloupe, India, and of course, Trinidad & Tobago.Trinidad & Tobago Fashion WeekFounded in 2008, the event showcases some of the mosttalented local and regional designers and models, both established and emerging, every May. Trinidad & Tobago Film Festival This September festival started in 2006 and is now the secondlargest of its kind in the region. It showcases a range of dramatic,documentary, short, and animated films from or about the Caribbean and Latin America, and hosts a number of workshops and educational programmes.WeBeat Festival ( Trinidad)An annual festival in June centred around the Western Main Road in St. James, featuring vintage kaiso(calypso), talent shows, a pan explosion and asteelband parade at the end. iMeiling with House of Jaipur unveilsthe Jaipur line (Mariamma Kambon)30 29. Eco Spot ht ligEco Spotlight A leatherback turtle makes its way to the sea Turtle after nesting (Giancarlo Lalsingh) Watching The islands, especially Trinidads northeast and Tobagos southwest coasts, are one of the most important turtle nesting grounds in the world. During nesting months (March August) from mid-eveningthrough early morning, female turtles endangered leatherbacks as well as hawksbill, green and rarelysighted loggerheads and olive ridleys heave themselves out of the ocean to come ashore and laytheir eggs. They laboriously dig nests in the sand, camouflaging them after laying. Two months later,the eggs hatch, and the baby turtles make a dash for the sea; few survive the predators and make it tomaturity.Trinidads Grande Rivire (the second largest leatherback nesting site in the world) and Matura arepopular sites and both protected beaches. In Tobago, the turtles frequent the beaches of the Leewardcoast, particularly Stonehaven and Courland (or Turtle) beaches.Turtle Watching Tips & TricksPermits are required, which any good tour operator can obtain for you. Ifyou stay overnight nearby, hotels and guest houses can usually help to obtainpermits and wake you when there are sightingsGo with a guide, and give nesting turtles lots of space, especially during thedigging and covering processLights and activity can disorient turtles and hatchlings. Be quiet andunobtrusive on beaches during the nesting season, particularly at night; do notuse flashlights or flash photographyDont drive on nesting beaches as vehicles can crush entire clutches of eggsbeneath the sandThe Turtle Village Trust comprises the islands leading turtle conservationgroups: Nature Seekers; the Grande Rivire Nature Tour Guide Association;the Matura to Matelot (M2M) Network; the Fishing Pond Turtle ConservationGroup; and SOS (Save our Sea Turtles) Tobago. These are a great place to start. www.discovertnt.com 31 30. EcoSpot htlig Diving The spectacular coral reefs on the islands, especially in Tobago, are a great draw for visitors. Some are content with snorkelling, but many more want the thrill of scuba diving. Blessed with nutrient-Above Colourful, tropical fish abound on the reefs around Tobago (Edward Montserin) rich waters and situatedRight Trained tour guides offer hikes to waterfalls like Aripo at the southern end of the Caribbean chain, Tobago enjoys a varied, unique, and abundant marine environment. Manta, eagle and sting rays can all be seen, as well as hammerhead, nurse and black- tipped reef sharks; hawksbill, green and leatherback turtles; moray eels; barracuda; dolphin, and pelagic species such as marlin. The variety of dive types (wreck, drift and reef diving) and dive sites is unparalleled in the Caribbean: there is the 10,000-year-old Buccoo Reef, Kilgwyn Flying Reef, Culloden Reef, Speyside (featuring the worlds largest and oldest big brain coral) or Charlotteville reef (home to manta rays from March to August) to name but a few. The most popular dive sites in Trinidad are off the Chaguaramas and Toco coasts, while in Tobago, choose from Japanese Gardens, east of Goat Island; Black Jack Hole, east of Little Tobago; The Wreck, Mount Irvine Bay; Book Ends, between Speyside and Little Tobago (popular among advanced divers); and the MV Maverick on the west coast.Diving Tips & TricksTake care when diving and snorkelling not to touch the coral; it is easily damaged, and ifyoure really unlucky you will get stung by fire coralScuba diving opens up an exciting new world but to fully appreciate these oceanic wondersa PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) registered guide is recommendedAccredited dive operators in both Trinidad and Tobago offer a range of courses beginners, open water, advanced, rescue diver, drift diving, deep diving and wreck divingAccredited dive centres are located throughout the islands with Chaguaramas,Charlotteville, Speyside, the Crown Point area and Arnos Vale among the best knownAverage water temperature: 2529C / 7785FAverage visibility: 2437m / 80120ft; best visibility is JanuaryAugust, but especiallyMayJulyAverage depth: 18m / 60ft; maximum depth is 34m / 110ft. 32 31. Tips & Tricks for Eco AdventuresHire guides registered with the Trinidad & Tobago Incoming Tour OperatorsAssociation (TTITOA); they are professionally trained and have public liabilityinsurancePermits also are needed for some locations and activities (like camping andturtle-watching) but any reputable guide or tour operator will arrange these.Natural hazards are relatively rare, but beware of the Portuguese Man-o-Warjellyfish, and the sap and fruit of the manchineel tree; seek local advice onwhether these are presentWhen outdoors, wear long trousers for lengthy bush treks, and never wearopen-toed sandals; comfortable shoes with good grip are recommended. Forhiking, take a little knapsack with a change of clothes, socks and something toeat, stored in a waterproof bag. If your carry a camera thats not waterproof,keep it here too. Avoid wearing black: it attracts mosquitoes, and if youre inthe open, soaks in the heat. Bring enough water to stay hydrated.For many more of the islands eco adventures, see the Touring & Exploringcoverage in the Discover Tobago and Discover Trinidad sections! i www.discovertnt.com33 32. BusinessBusiness Trinidads economy has long been driven by oil and gas, which constitutes about 70% of the islands exports. Tobagos is equally divided between tourism and public service. In the face of fluctuating oil prices and finite hydrocarbon reserves plus challenges to the local tourism industry, diversification has been a goal for both islands. Diversification Several projects have emerged from this diversification thrust, as the islands open their doors for foreign investment. The current government, led since May 2010 by Kamla Persad-Bissessar the countrys first female prime minister plans to further develop industrial downstream programmes from existing methanol, ammonia and steel plants as well as renewable energy. Other sectors targeted for investment are film & television; fish & fish processing; food & beverage; yachting; printing& packaging, music & entertainment; leisure marine,and merchant marine industries. There are also plans to develop the agricultural sector. Major Projects Major developments include the Tamana InTech Park at Wallerfield, Trinidad, which is a state-of-the-art science and technology park targeting established and emerging companies in information & communication technology (ICT) software development, high- tech manufacturing, and agro-processing. The state-owned company eTecK also manages 16 other industrial parks. In Tobago, the Tobago House of Assembly (www.tha.gov.tt) has been developing the COVE Eco-Industrial Estate and Business Park, to promote knowledge-based industries, light manufacturing, information technology and related industries, and selected intermediate goods processing. Business Tourism Trinidad & Tobago is already a financial and information hub in the Caribbean and Latin America, with a high influx of business travellers (accounting for nearly 20% of all stop-overs). Consequently, in conjunction with the hosting of the Summit of the Americas (SOTA) and the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (CHOGM) in 2009, the Tourism Development Company (TDC, www.tdc.co.tt) set up the Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau (TTCB), which began operations in August 2009. This is part of a thrust to position Port of Spain as the meetings and conventions capital of the southern Caribbean and culture capital of the region. 34 33. International Waterfront Centre (Marc Aberdeen) Investment OpportunitiesIn addition to being a regional economic powerhouse, even under trying economic conditions, theislands offer foreign investors a number of advantages. Their location is perhaps the countrysgreatest asset, being a gateway outside of the hurricane belt between the Caribbean, SouthAmerica and North America.Other key selling points for investors include:the largest and newest conference infrastructure in the English-speaking Caribbean;high quality physical and ICT infrastructure and telecommunications;a good track record for FDI (foreign direct investment);excellent and reliable access from major international hubs;bilateral investment and taxation treaties with no foreign exchange controls, and exemption fromVAT, customs duty and other taxes;a number of services to help facilitate any investment in Trinidad & Tobago;and a lifestyle that integrates laid back island charm, a vibrant cultural landscape and a competitiveand sophisticated business climate.For property investment, see the Real Estate articles in the Discover Trinidad and Discover Tobagosections. i www.discovertnt.com35 34. www.discovertnt.com 37 35. ShoppingShoppingTrinidad attracts shoppers of every taste and income, including visitors from the Caribbean and LatinAmerica. Goods on offer range from high-end products from the USA and Europe to bargain goodiesfrom Venezuela, India, Brazil and China. But on both islands, knowing whats available and where tofind it, is the key. MallsDowntown There are five major malls inIn every major district in Trinidad, shopping is centred on a Trinidad: The Falls at Westfew key streets: Frederick and Charlotte Streets (Port of Mall, Long Circular Mall,Spain); High Street (San Fernando); Main Street (Chaguanas); Trincity Mall, Gulf City and and Milford Road Esplanade and the Market at Carrington Grand Bazaar. While you mayStreet in Scarborough, Tobago. In these areas, you can find find branches of popular higha myriad of things to buy from fabric to eating utensils and street stores at these locations,food; bargains are thick on the ground. they also house high-end stores you wont find anywhereOnline Trade Fairs else. In addition to the major malls, Trinidad has a number of smaller shopping plazas and Though relatively new, Indian businessmen have mini malls that house a rangeonline shopping is gaining been doing brisk business in of stores. In Tobago, the main traction in Trinidad. So far,Trinidad over the last decade mall (and cineplex) is Gulfshoes, clothing, lingeriewith trade fairs where they City Lowlands, not far fromand accessories are thesell clothing, jewellery, Scarborough. main items that can be household products,bought from local sites. foodstuff and furniture at bargain prices.Good Buys Art & Craft: wood carvings, handmade soap, belts, handbags, shell jewellery, calabash art, sandals, sarongs, wooden sculptures and carvings and other accessories in leather or other natural material can be bought from sidewalk vendors, shopping plazas in downtown Port of Spain, San Fernando, Chaguanas and Scarborough and souvenir shops in the malls. Hotels and beaches (like Maracas in Trinidad and particularly Store Bay in Tobago) have a variety of local craft on offer. Paintings, sculptures and other artwork can be found at local art stores and galleries, mainly in Port of Spain (Trinidad), and at studios like Luise Kimmes Castle and The Art Gallery in Tobago Books & Magazines: a range of local fiction, non-fiction and magazines can be found at bookstores across the country Clothing & Fabric: numerous boutiques sell cheap, mass-produced clothes from China and the USA; high-end boutiques with clothing from Europe and the USA; ethnic clothing from India and Africa; and designer fare from celebrated local designers. Hand-dyed fabrics and batiques are also available, as is swimwear and sportswear. In Tobago, dont miss Batiki Point at the Sunday School venue in Buccoo DVDs: locally produced television series and films are packaged for home viewing38 36. The Falls at West MallFood & Spirits: pepper and other sauces, roti skins,pastelles, chocolate, seasonings, spices, and ofcourse award-winning Trinidadian rum and spiritsare favourites among Trinis and visitors alike! HiLoand TruValu are the big grocery chains, as well asPennySavers in TobagoJewellery: from precious stones to naturalmaterial, jewellers in Trinidad cater to every pocketand taste with their creations, available fromsidewalk vendors or at select storesMusic: though you may not hear it on the radio,local music is thriving in Trinidad. Apart fromcalypso, steel pan, soca and chutney music, you canfind local rock, hip-hop, gospel, reggae, choral, andIndian music at most local music stores. You can alsobuy local music online at www.TrinidadTunes.comand on iTunesSouvenirs: mini steel pans, mugs, key chains,T-shirts, figurines, music, DVDs, Carnival dolls andhandcrafted copper trinkets make perfect gifts foryour friends and family back home. iwww.discovertnt.com39 37. Sports SportsTrinidad & Tobago has a healthy appetite for sports especially for football (soccer) and cricket. Overthe years, the islands have been particularly well represented on the international stage in track andfield, football, cricket, hockey, boxing, martial arts, swimming, motor sports and shooting. They arealso prime locations for eco-adventurers, and Tobago offers world-class opportunities for divingenthusiasts. The local sporting calendar is packed with competitions held throughout the year. Notsurprisingly, the government is looking at seriously developing sports tourism, and to upgrade facilitiesand infrastructure. Basketball is becoming increasingly popularAthleticsBasketballEach year, locals get to see their stars in action atthe Hampton Games, the biggest athletic event Increasingly popular, basketball is playedthat is held at the Hasely Crawford Stadium innightly on community courts nationwide,Port of Spain. The sector is presided over by the as well as in seven zonal leagues and onNational Amateur Athletics Association. There are national teams. The Jean Pierre Complex45 clubs nationwide and the Southern Games at (Port of Spain) and Sport & Physical EducationGuaracara Park is one of the biggest annual meets.Centre on the University campus in St.Augustine are the main venues in Trinidad,Body Buildingwith others in Maloney, Point Fortin andPleasantville. Major events are the Super Ten(OctoberDecember) and the National ClubGreat entertainment for the merciless crowd, butChampionship. In Tobago, games are playedparticipants in the junior and senior championships at Shaw Park every night, while 22 other hardtake things very seriously. Darrem Charlescourts are open for public use in towns andwas ranked 10th last year on the IFBB mens villages across Tobago.Bodybuilding Professional Rankings list.40 38. Dragon boat racing in Chaguaramas (Martin Farinha)CricketPerhaps the only sport to rival footballs popularity, cricket hasgained new interest and new fans thanks to the Twenty/20format; the national team is considered a regional powerhouse.This is also the home of Brian Lara, the former West Indiescaptain who has held just about every record available to aCyclingbatsman. The Queens Park Oval in Port of Spain is one of theCaribbeans most beautiful cricket grounds and the venue forinternational Test and One-Day International matches, and hasbeen the home of the Queens Park Cricket Club since 1896.Scarboroughs Shaw Park is Tobagos premier cricket location, The Beacon Cycling Series,hosting regional first-class fixtures as well as top local league the Tobago Cycling Classic,games. Impromptu games are played nationwide. Rainbow Cup Triathlon andWest Indies vs. the Worldare highlights of the racingDragon Boat Racingcalendar, which includesthe Easter InternationalGrand Prix and NationalDragon boating is a relatively new sport in Trinidad, havingChampionships. Trinidadsbeen introduced in a big way in 2006 as part of the Chinese Queens Park Savannah andBicentennial Day celebrations. Since then, regattas havethe Arima Velodrome aretaken place in both Trinidad and Tobago (primarily around popular venues, while legsChaguaramas and Pigeon Point). In 2011, the new Nationalof big competitions happenDragon Boat Team won several medals at the Internationalacross both islands.Dragon Boat Federation World Championships in Tampa, Florida.www.discovertnt.com 41 39. Sports Diving Trinidad cannot match Tobago as a diving destination, but there is diving all year. The best is around the islands off Chaguaramas, particularly Chacachacare, sheltered from the muddy waters of the Orinoco. The north coast and Gulf of Paria are other sites. It is Tobago, however, which is a prime Caribbean dive location, with over 60 established dive sites (mainly around the northern tip) offering everything from shallow reef dives to deep diving, wreck diving and drift diving. Observe turtles, sharks, moray eels, barracuda, tarpon, parrotfish, rays (sting, eagle and manta), huge corals (big brain), sponges and sea fans. Most operators offer introductory courses. There is a recompression chamber at Roxborough Medical Facility, 20 minutes drive from Speyside. On either island, diving with a PADI registered operator is strongly recommended.FootballWith a male and female national team (Soca Warriors and Soca Princesses),professional and secondary schools leagues and clubs for children of all ages,football is a national sport in Trinidad & Tobago. In 2010, the country hosted the FIFAUnder-17 Womens World Cup, and hosted the mens equivalent in 2001. The SocaWarriors team represented T&T as the smallest nation ever to qualify for the WorldCup in 2006. Primary venues are the Dwight Yorke Stadium in Tobago, and the HaselyCrawford, Marvin Lee, Larry Gomes, Ato Boldon, and Manny Ramjohn stadiums inTrinidad. The Pro League runs AprilDecember. Ad hoc and fte matches, meanwhile,are played on beaches and parks nationwide. Golf Trinidad has three 18-hole courses: Mokas St. Andrews Golf Club, Trincitys Millennium Lakes and Petrotrins Pointe--Pierre Golf Club. Nine-hole courses exist at Brechin Castle, Usine St. Madeleine and Chaguaramas. Tobago is served by two 18-hole golf courses at Mt. Irvine Hotel and Tobago Plantations.Gyms & Health ClubsGyms are everywhere, including some of the larger hotels and malls; many offerweekly, monthly and daily passes which allow visitors access to group exerciseclasses, aerobics, zumba and spin, etc.Yoga and pilates are increasingly popular waysof pursuing health and wellness, as are non-traditional activities like pole dancing! Hiking & Hashing Started in 1984, the Port of Spain Hash House Harriers has evolved into a 100-strong bi-weekly event with a healthy emphasis on the social side. Hiking is also very popular, with formal tour guides and informal groups of eco-adventurers leading hikes to some of the islands most breathtaking caves, waterfalls and more on the weekends. 42 40. Trinidad & Tobagos Soca Warriors in action (Mariamma Kambon)HockeyThe hockey year is split in two: the indoor season SeptemberJanuary and theoutdoor season (on Tacariguas Astroturf in Trinidad and Tobagos Dwight YorkeStadium in Tobago) MarchAugust.Horse RacingSanta Rosa Park is Trinidads only horse racing track, and it has an AmTote betting system.Thoroughbreds pound the dirt nearly every Saturday and public holiday, with about 40 race daysannually. They include New Year races, Derby Day, Diamond Stakes, Midsummer Classic,Presidents Cup and the Santa Rosa Classic.Horse Riding In Tobago, you can enjoy horseback riding on some beaches, including Stonehaven, Grand Courland and Canoe Bays. There are woodland trails on the lower half of the island. Most hotels can organise trips and there is an office at Canoe Bay. In Trinidad, dressage and show jumping instruction is available from Bays & Greys Riding Centre (Santa Cruz), Jericoe Stables (St. Anns), and Goodwin Heights (the St. Anns 250-acre former coffee and cocoa estate of Margaret Muffy Auerbach). For trail riding, contact Hidden Valley (Chaguaramas) or Bonanza Stud Farm (Arima).www.discovertnt.com 43 41. Sports Kayaking In Trinidad, river kayaking is best in the wet season when rivers are full. The Yara and Marianne Rivers on the north coast are popular spots, as is the Nariva Swamp where the Godineau River takes you through saltwater mangrove swamps and freshwater marshland. For sea kayaking, the Kayak Centre in Chaguaramas offers the sheltered waters of Williams Bay, and provides equipment. In Tobago, you can pick up kayaking tours and lessons at Man-o-War Bay. Kayaks can be rented at some beaches, and beach hotels like Grafton Bay Resort and Le Grand Courlan. Take extra care in rainy season. Martial Arts A plethora of martial arts is practised, especially in Trinidad, including capoeira, kung fu, karate, bushido, aikido, judo, jujitsu, tai chi and kickboxing. Several dojos teach martial arts styles, from kung fu to wushu. Purple Dragon, founded by Professor Don Jacob, teaches Trinidads only indigenous form of karate, don jitsu ryu, and operates several schools locally. Motor Sports Rally Trinidad and Rally Tobago are perhaps the biggest motor sports events in T&T, attracting enthusiasts and competitors from all over the region. The Trinidad & Tobago Rally Club (TTRC) has hosted legs of the Caribbean Speed Stages Rally Championship. Drag racing is popular, though it is yet to receive a permanent base. Rallying locations are big in south and central Trinidad, including the popular Zig Zag and Indian trail Tracks in Couva. American autocross defensive driving competitions are held in the car park of the Santa Rosa race track, as are karting events. Mountain Biking In Trinidad, Chaguaramas trails and varying terrain are ideal for beginners, including forest paths, old military and agricultural roads. Other locations include the Santa Cruz valley and Matura to Matelot stretch. For a lung-burster try the Blanchisseuse to Morne La Croix Road. Meanwhile, Tobago provides some great terrain for mountain bikers of all levels, from breathtaking downhills to easy-coast cruises. Mountain Bike Magazine calls Tobago the mountain bikers island paradise. Explore coastal tracks, rainforest rides through the Main Ridge Forest Reserve, isolated beaches and remote villages, some inaccessible by car. Note that muddy trails can be hazardous in the wet season. Make sure to go with a guide.Right Conditions in Trinidad & Tobago are perfect for sailing (Oswin Brown) 44 42. SailingTrinidad has one of the largest racing fleets in the Caribbean, andChaguaramas is a major sailing hub. The racing season begins aroundNovemberDecember and continues till MayJune. Dry season winds arestronger (northeast trade, consistent force 45), while in the wet seasonthey tend to be lighter (13). The Sailing Association hosts over a dozenraces, including general handicap races where any boat can take part.Most of Trinidads north coast bays offer good daytime anchorage, butonly professional captains should attempt the windward side. The TobagoCarnival Regatta (formerly Sail Week) is a popular annual event, not onlyfor the sailing but for the partying which accompanies it. It provides racingfor varying levels from the highest racing class, to racer cruiser, cruiser andfinally charter class. There are also tour operators who operate sightseeingsailboat tours, and diving trips. www.discovertnt.com 45 43. SportsSport FishingTrinidad means tarpon, for sports fishing aficionados the world over. Onshore fishing in Trinidad ispopular in Chaguaramas, Las Cuevas, Galera Point and the Nariva river mouth. Popular boat-fishingspots include the Chaguaramas islands, where fishermen troll for carite, kingfish and cavalli andbank for redfish, salmon and croakers (or grunt). Many highly prized pelagic species, such as bluemarlin, sailfish, tuna, wahoo and dorado, patrol Tobagos reef and shelf drop-offs, with Charlottevilleswaters particularly productive. There is also inshore, river, mudflats and fly-fishing to be enjoyed.The key offshore seasons in T&T are: OctoberApril for marlin, sailfish, wahoo, tuna and dorado; andMaySeptember for barracuda, kingfish, bonito, and snapper. There are two major tournaments: theTobago International Game Fishing Tournament at Charlotteville and the Trinidad & Tobago GameFishing Association Tournament at Speyside. There have been record catches in the last few years, witha junior world record 400kg (890lb) blue marlin caught in the 2008 TTGFA tournament. Conservation isimportant, so competitions and charters use the tag-and-release system. Surfing NovemberMarch, Trinidads north coast beaches provide favourable swells, but the rainy season and hurricane season can offer strong waves as well. Even in peak season, patience is needed as surfing isnt possible every day. Sans Souci, Las Cuevas, LAnse Mitan, Grande Rivire, Roughside and Salybia are the most popular spots. In March, the Surfing Association stages the CSN Sans Souci, the first event in the cross-Caribbean Carib Challenge Cup series, and hosts the International Surf Festival in May, and its national championships in July. In Tobago, Mt. Irvine and Bacolet are major surfing spots that can provide some perfectly shaped waves, with board rentals and lessons available.TennisTennis is a vibrant sport in the islands, especially at junior level. There are public courts at King GeorgeV Park in St. Clair, Trinidad and at Store Bay, Tobago; reservations are required. There are also courts forhourly rental at the Trinidad Country Club and some hotels. Courts at Tranquillity and Westmooringsrequire yearly membership. Play in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the scorching midday sun. Water Sports Equipment rental and lessons in all manner of watersports kitesurfing, parasailing, surfing, kayaking, waterskiing and more are readily available at beaches nationwide, but are particularly common in Tobago. Crown Point and Speyside are great for watersports. Each August, also look out for the Carib Great Race. Powerboats vie for supremacy on an 84-mile route from Trinidads Gulf of Paria to Scarborough in Tobago. i46 44. Weddings WeddingsWeddings are all about romance, and Trinidad and Tobago delivers just that. With a variety ofstunning backdrops to choose from the mood is easily set.Tobago in particular has several resorts and wedding service providers who offer packages to suit acouples needs. Wedding planners can facilitate your event on the day, or help you plan every detailand work with you every step of the way to plan your dream wedding and honeymoon, includinglocating the perfect venue and sourcing everything from flowers and decorations to entertainment.Many hotels, resorts and villas offer honeymoon packages complete with oceanside vistas for yourwedding ceremony. Many also offer honeymoon packages.What You Need to Knowfirst, establish temporary residency in Trinidad & Tobago by scheduling any wedding activities noless than three full days after your arrivalhave a valid return ticketobtain a special marriage license (US$55) at the Inland Revenue Department (IRD) with proof ofidentity (valid passport), and evidence of your single status if divorced or widowed (including anyrelevant divorce decrees and death certificates). NB: non-English documents must be accompaniedby notarised English translationsyou will receive two marriage certificates that are accepted in most countries. Check your nationof origin for any additional requirementsthose who wish to marry under the age of 18 must obtain the written consent of their parent orguardianyour wedding ceremony will require two witnesses identified by passport, and must be performedbetween 6am and 6pm. i (Edison Boodoosingh)www.discovertnt.com47 45. TobagoThe ocean view from poolside at Crown Point Hotel (Karen Pinheiro)AccommodationCrown Point & the SouthwestMost accommodation options are concentrated around the Crown Point area, near to the newly re-named ANR Robinson International Airport, and in Scarborough. This is the hub of tourist activity, withrestaurants, shopping, beautiful beaches, tours, historical sites and much more all in walking distanceof most properties. Most are huddled around the stunning beaches at Store Bay and Pigeon Point.Hotels and resorts are thick on the ground across the southwest, including Crown Point Hotel,Tropikist, Surfside, and the Arnos Vale Hotel.Self-catering aficionados should try apartments like those at Belleviste, and stunning villas like thoseat the Seahorse Inn, Tobago Plantations (including the beautiful Villa Sans Souci), Stonehaven andPlantation Beach Villas.Villas, indeed, are something one could easily get used to, and for a group it can be very affordable.At the luxury end you can live like royalty, and the simpler, cottage-style properties are verycomfortable too. Spectacular ocean and mountain views, colonial architecture and services like airporttransfers and tours are often included. These villas are perfect for wedding ceremonies and to hostfull wedding parties.48 46. www.discovertnt.com 49 47. Accommodat ionTobago accommodation (Skene Howie) Themed Holidays Tobago is a renowned destination for bird watching, diving, and a range of eco and outdoor activities. Just a few miles away from the buzz of Crown Point, Scarborough and the southwest, you begin to feel as if you are escaping into another world. Diving enthusiasts will probably want to head straight for the northeast of Tobago, near Speyside and Charlotteville, though there is great diving and snorkelling in the waters beyond the Arnos Vale Hotel on the west coast. 50 48. www.discovertnt.com 51 49. 52 50. Accommodat ionGolfers will want to benear Mt. Irvine and TobagoPlantations in Lowlands(luxurious villas like Sans Souciwill help you rest up beforeteeing off).Nature lovers will want toescape to the Arnos ValeHotel, and the award-winningCuffie River Nature Retreatnear Runnemede andTobagos Main Ridge ForestReserve.Wedding parties would dowell with the islands upscalevillas. iCharlotteville viewwww.discovertnt.com53 51. 54 52. RealEsat Real Estate te Tobagos clean, green and serene Caribbean paradise reputation led to a rapid increase in overseas and homegrown property investment in the 1990s and before 2008. Demand slowed somewhat after the international financial crisis and licensing regulations for foreigners introduced in 2007. However, the first licences to foreign real estate investors began in the second quarter of 2010, though there reportedly remains a bit of a backlog. In Tobago, properties for sale are as varied as the ones for short-term stays, and include single- family homes, townhouses, duplexes, golf course- hugging villas and stunning luxury mansions with breathtaking panoramic sea views. Properties on the lower end of the market, like single-family homes or smaller villas, begin at TT$1 million (US$160,000) and rise to an eye-widening TT$25 million (US$4 million) for large luxury villas, though again there are some bargains to be had in the current economy, especially from anyone trying to sell something quickly. Get Started Abraham Tobago Realty: Broker/owner Brian Abraham has over 35 years of real estate experience in North America and in Tobago. His company offers a large selection of properties for sale and for rent as well as a comprehensive property management service. Caribbean Estates, Lands & Villas: Since 2000, Caribbean Estates dedicated and energetic team provides a one-stop-shop to those in the market for house and land sales, commercial properties, villa rentals and/or property management. iwww.discovertnt.com 55 53. Food & Dining Food& Dining There are several great restaurants, specialising in local, international and fusion dishes. Many take advantage of the islands exquisite landscape, offering breathtaking hillside or seaside views, or re-animating the shells of former plantations alongside old waterwheels and sugar mills, lending tremendous atmosphere to the dining experience. Most of the fine dining establishments are concentrated in the islands touristy southwestern tip, with Scarborough and the northeast being your second best bets. Roadside eateries islandwide serve home-style Tobagonian dishes, and trendy sports bars offer a range of food, drink, and entertainment. Fresh seafood and Tobagos signature dish crab and dumplings are always a good choice. Wash itRight Delectable vegetarian fare all down with freshly squeezed local fruit juices, and Above Tobago is known for its snacks and sweets follow it up with a range of Tobagonian snacks and desserts. iWorld RenownedCuisineThe Seahorse Inn Restaurant & Barin Black Rock has been featured on theUKs Richard & Judy Show (GMTV) and theTravel Channel, and with good reason:theres a little something for any palette from seafood to steaks, local creole tointernational and fusion. Enjoy beautifuloceanside breezes and views of Stonehavenbeach, where giant leatherbacks comeashore MarchAugust. Sip deliciouscocktails at the bar, or dive in to a deliciousthree-course meal under the stars. Theresnightly entertainment at peak times of year.56 54. www.discovertnt.com 57 55. Touring & ExploringTouring & ExploringTobago may be tiny, but between its historical landmarks and stunning natural attractions, there is alot to experience. Its possible to drive around the island in a single day, but for the best experience,take it all in slowly. Tobago also brims with award-winning adventures to satisfy the most active eco-explorer, but theres plenty to interest the more laid back nature lover too.Crown Point & the Southwest Fort Milford: a perfect spot for enjoying aGrafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary: Tobago sunset, this fort was established in 1777 a former cocoa estate which, after 1963s by the British. Only a few cannon and some Hurricane Flora, evolved into a bird sanctuary; crumbling walls remain the birds are still fed at the Copra House around Kimme Museum (The Castle): the workshop4pm. There are nature trails and scenic hiking, and gallery of German sculptor Luise Kimme ideal for bird watchers who is perhaps best known for her 3m-highFort Bennett: a beautiful lookout point, built in Tobago dancers and folklore characters hand- 1778, complete with a little pavilion and small carved from wood and bronze. Open Sundaysgarden 10am2pm. Small entrance fee Plymouth: the Courland Monument is a strikingsculpture (unveiled by Pat Chu Foon, 1976)commemorating 17th-century settlers fromCourland. Fort James stands on the headlandbeyond the village; the Mystery Tombstone(the grave of Betty Stivens and her baby) hasan inscription which has puzzled generations;it reads in part: She was a mother withoutknowing it, and a wife without letting herhusband know it, except by her kind indulgencesto him...Cats claw vine in bloom, Black Rock (Giancarlo Lalsingh)58 56. www.discovertnt.com 59 57. Scarborough Scarborough Mall: in the heart of LowerT Scarborough, opposite the docks. Here youll find banks, post office, library, pharmacies, bus station, etc. The Scarborough Market, next to the Mall, specialises in fish, fruit, vegetables and local foods; the best times are Friday and Saturday mornings Botanical Gardens: vast grounds with majestic trees and captivating views provide a quiet escape from the bustle of Scarborough among brilliant flamboyants, silk cotton trees, and avenues of royal palms Fort King George: named after King George III in 1804, this is Tobagos main fort. From its magnificent vantage point, you can lookArnos Vale waterwheel Leeward Coast down upon Scarborough, Bacolet, up the Windward coast, and south over Lowlands. The site includes a military cemetery, an old chapel and a cell block. The Tobago Museum,Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve: various located in the Barrack Guard House, displays fruits are grown, and a variety of birdlife can the history of Tobagos early Amerindian era be seen here. Theres also a butterfly garden and colonial days. and a shelter for endangered speciesArnos Vale: this former sugar estate is richwith birdlife, and the beach and offshore reefat the Arnos Vale Hotel offer exceptionalsnorkelling. A little further up the road, the1857 Arnos Vale Waterwheel that powered theestates mill is still intact. There are a numberof nature trails, an Amerindian site and an oldslave villageCuffie River Nature Retreat: great birdwatching and nature tours, as well as an easilyaccessible riverCastara: memorable snorkelling andfascinating views are part of the Castaraexperience. The beach is a delightful stretchof palm-lined sand with clear, calm water. Twobeachside bars provide food and drinkMain Ridge & Forest Reserve: rising some1,890 feet, a spinal ridge running downtwo-thirds of the island. Declared a CrownReserve in 1776, it is the oldest in the westernhemisphere. A favourite trail is Gilpin Trace, aneasy 45-minute walk to a small waterfall.60 58. Touring & ExploringWindward Coast Granby Point: a relaxingstop-off point on your way up the windward coast. This colonial fort, named after John Manners, the Marquis of Granby, a British military hero of the Seven Years War, offered protection to Tobagos former capital Georgetown Tobago Cocoa Estate: a working cocoa plantation and heritage park, where visitors can participate in the fermentation and drying processes. Once considered a dyingAbove Sunset at Sandy Bay art, these techniques are being revitalisedRight Speyside for the first time since Hurricane Flora decimated Tobagos cocoa crops in 1963house/hotel and restaurant. It houses an extensive Speyside: known for its fantastic diving. collection of African art From this fishing village, you can also visit Kings Bay: once a large Carib settlement. The Little Tobago, a bird sanctuary off the water is calm and warm, and there are beach northeast coast. There are magnificentfacilities. Kings Bay Waterfall can be reached via views from the Speyside Lookout; local fruita trail on the opposite side of the road; however, and souvenirs are available from waysidethe falls are sometimes dry when theres been vendors. Theres a Tourist office, good divelittle rain. shops, watersports operators and good restaurants Flagstaff Hill: the northernmost tip of Tobago, reached via an unpaved road from the crest of the hill before descending into Charlotteville. It was the site of an American military lookout and radio tower during World War II. The view is panoramic, encompassing St. Giles Islands and the village of Charlotteville Charlotteville: legendary for its peace and beauty, Charlotteville lies at the foot of a steep hill at the end of the Windward Road, on the shore of Tobagos finest natural harbour, Man-o-War Bay. Like Speyside, Charlotteville is an excellent dive centre with its own dive shops. The beach is great for swimming, with beach facilities at the southern end Richmond Great House: quiet and charming, the Great House (1776) has been attractively restored to function as a guestwww.discovertnt.com 61 59. ExploreFrankies Tours & Rentals (Tobago):Tobago Eco Capsulewith nearly 25 years experience,Michael Franks strong team and Tobago was voted the worlds top eco-fleet of boats and buses can providetourism destination (World Travel Awards,tours for bird watching, hiking,2003)island tours, snorkelling, even Tobagos Main Ridge is the oldest protecteddolphin watching. Franks evening rainforest in the western hemisphere, (1776)cruise offers unlimited cocktails, aBuccoo Reef was designated a nationallybuffet, the chance to watch roostingprotected marine area in 1973birds flying in over tranquil lagoons,The Buccoo Reef/Bon Accord Lagoonand a dip in the Nylon Pool. He alsoComplex is the islands first Ramsar Site,operates an extensive fleet of rental recognised as a wetland of internationalcars and vans importance, including the inshore coralPlantation Beach Watersports/Sail reef system and the Bon Accord mangroveTobago: here, you can book an all-swamps and seagrass beds, where the rarelyinclusive boat cruise on the Island seen green sea turtle may be found.Girl, a 43-foot catamaran that sailsup Tobagos Caribbean coastline.Enjoy a day of great sailing withOn the island, you can find:friendly and professional crew Over 220 recorded bird speciesand some fantastic snorkelling 133 species of butterflies (including the(equipment is supplied) plus animpressive blue emperor)open bar and buffet lunch25 species of snake (none of themShermans Auto Rentals & Groundpoisonous)Tours (Tobago): Shermans17 species of batsboasts top-notch customer14 species of frogservice including: accommodation 12 species of mammalsarrangements; airport transfers; 5 species of marine turtles (includingvehicle exchange and maintenance;the endangered giant leatherback)collision damage waiver; free eighth 6 species of lizard.day with seven days rental; freeweekly maintenance and a 24-houremergency service.Speyside 62 60. Tobag Eco AdventuresTobago Eco Advent o uresOn Land Hiking & Biking Trails: the most frequented hiking area is the Main Ridge forest, easily accessible by the Gilpin and Niplig trails. Biking enthusiasts can opt for easy trails, like those along the boardwalk in Lowlands, or extreme mountain trails that can be reached only on foot all offer spectacular vistas Waterfalls: experienced guides can escort you through the rainforest or to the 3-tiered Argyle Falls near Roxborough (there is an entrance fee). Visitors to Rainbow Waterfall can experience local cultivation techniques while literally sharing in the fruits of their labour Offshore islands: superlative places for bird watching. The imposing frigate birds seen circling high above the ocean roost on St. Giles. Rare red-billed tropic birds nest DecemberJuly on Little Tobago. Pick up boat tours in Speyside.At Sea Glass-bottom Boat Tours: one of the most popular marine activities, suitable for all ages and fitness levels. A tour of Buccoo Reef includes the intriguingly named Nylon Pool, and the other- worldly Coral Gardens replete with staghorn and star coral, sea fans and other octocorals. Speyside visitors have a chance to see the worlds largest brain coral and visit the offshore islands. Tours leave several times a day from Store Bay, Pigeon Point, and Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay beach (Speyside) Snorkelling & Diving: available island-wide for every level of expertise. Drift snorkelling and diving in coastal areas minimises damage to the living reefs. In addition to an assortment of tropical fish, in NovemberJune huge manta rays glide silently alongside the undersea visitor Watersports: enjoy kite surfing, kayaking, and wind surfing: popular spots are Pigeon Point, Mt. Irvine and Charlotteville. For traditional surfboarding, Mt. Irvine and Grange Bay are exceptional; and the wind is just right for kite surfing at Little Rockly Bay. Chartered boats like the Island Girl sail up the coast serving refreshment in a wonderful Caribbean atmosphere Game Fishing: for those who prefer catching fish to swimming alongside them, the T&T Game Fishing Association hosts several tournaments; blue marlin over 800lbs have been caught here. Environmentally sound techniques are employed; a catch and release programme ensures that non-champion sized catches are tagged and returned to the sea. Tobagos peak fishing season runs NovemberMay. iArgyle Falls www.discovertnt.com63 61. BeachesBeachesThe clear, warm waters of Parlatuvier offer great swimming (Martin Farhina)Seriously Tobago really is a paradise for beach goers, especially along its idyllic Caribbean coast.Sunbathing on white coral sand, watersports of every description, clear crystal water, offshore reefsand sandbars Conjure any picture of a perfect beach getaway, and Tobago can match it.Top Picks Pigeon Point Store BayLocated in Crown Point and close to the magnificent This is another exquisite bay in theBuccoo Reef and Nylon Pool, this is probably Tobagos heart of Crown Point. The strongmost popular and most photographed beach. Theres draws are its generally calm, cleara US$3 entrance fee and a longish road into the water that is perfect for swimming; itsHeritage Park of which the beach is a part (so its range of amenities on site shoppingprobably best to go with a vehicle) but its worthstalls (which are great for souveniryour while when you get there. The beach is great and craft hunters); food and drink;for accessibility, cleanliness, amenities (includingbathrooms; lifeguards; and umbrellasample food and drink, and bathroom facilities), and beach chairs for hire. Glass-bottomsafety, sunbathing, watersports, and clear shallowboat tours leave twice a day forwater that makes swimming and snorkelling a dream.Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool. ItsGlass-bottom boat trips to the Buccoo Reef and Nylonpopularity, however (both with beach-Pool also begin here, and you can enjoy a number of goers and overly enthusiastic vendors),watersports with equipment for hire on site.means that it can be a bit crowded. 64 62. Englishmans Bay Bloody BayAccessed via a dirt road off the Northside RoadIts name may originate with a(keep your eyes peeled for the sign), this quiet,colonial-era battle, but this iscrescent-shaped beach is perhaps one of theone of Tobagos most peacefulislands best-kept secrets. Hidden away from the and unspoilt beaches. There aremain road, this half mile of powdery golden sand,newly-installed changing rooms,hugged by lush vegetation (including manchineelpicnic tables and bathroom facilitiestrees be careful not to touch them), is theon site and lifeguards catering tobeach less travelled. Snorkelling is great here in crowds of beach-goers. Still, makethe water of the Caribbean Sea, and theres asure to bring your own food, drink,wonderful, unassuming little restaurant on siteand any other gear you might fancy;serving up delicious local food. There is also someas of press time, the restaurant wasgreat craft shopping.not yet open.Best of the Rest Coast to CoastCrown Point & the Leeward CoastBack Bay: a wonderfullyCastara: stunning, quiet andbay with dark sand. Goodsecluded small bay between Mt. unspoilt beach in a friendly fishingsnorkelling and spear fishingIrvine and Grafton, accessed via village, with calm water and fine Parlatuvier: fishing villagea cliffside trail. Good for body golden sand. The centrepiece of with a tranquil beach and a fewsurfing, tanning and snorkelling.a thriving fishing community, you snackettesDue to the isolated nature ofcan enjoy the sight of fishermenMt. Irvine: a pair of beachesthe beach, its best to go in abringing in their nets (pullingoffering excellent facilities,groupseine) or bread baked in old-snorkelling and surfing (inBuccoo: this narrow fishingfashioned dirt ovens. Excellent season). Surfers frequent thisbeach is the centre of the facilities including a restaurant,beach (NovemberMay) and whenaction for Goat and Crab Races stores and craft stalls, with tropical storms are in the region,at Easter time. Theres a smallaccommodation nearbywaiting for the perfect swell. Thebeach bar on siteGrange Beach (aka The Wall):hotel side offers refreshmentsCanoe Bay: a five-minute drive just past the Mt. Irvine Golf and beach amenities (adown a dirt road off the Milford Course, this is an ideal beach forbar, restaurant, lifeguards,Road, this scenic bay has aswimming and a popular spot watersports and tour operations),calm, shallow beach and an air for afternoon dipsand is ideal for swimming andof serenity. Tobagos calmestGreat Courland Bay (aka Turtlesnorkelling. Watersports gear canand shallowest bathing