diy engine start button instalation guide
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ciDIY Engine Start Button Instalation Guide.Engine Start Button Install
Tools you till need
An Engine Start Button I got mine from hereBullet wire connectors
No2 Phillips Screw DriverFlat head screw driverWire Cutters
Pliers or wire crimpers
38mm spanner30mm drill bit, tank/hole cutter
Cordless drillScissors
Wire Strippers
Soldering IronSolder
Heat Shrink or electrical tape.
PLEASE NOTE I AM FROM THE UK SO THIS GUIDE IS FOR A CAR THE DRIVES ON
THE CORRECT SIDE OF THE ROAD AND IS RIGHT HAND DRIVE, SOME THINGS
MAY DIFFER THROUGHOUT THE REST OF EUROPE.
Step 1 Removal of the steering wheel trim
You will need to remove the upper and lower parts that cover the steeringcolumn. Instructions can be found here you may find it easier to pop the height
adjuster at the bottom of the wheel so you can move it about to remove theupper and lower panel.
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Take care when removing the small bulb that lights the ignition key slot.
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You will also need to remove the lower trim panel again the info from the service
manual can be found hereThis is pretty simple to do it is simply held in place at the top with 2 white clips
and then folds down on 2 hinges at the bottom then pulls away.
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Step 2 unplugging the ignition loom.Next you will need to splice in to the ignition system, I did this up high just
behind where the loom plugs in to the actual switch, there is a small red retention
clip holding the plug in the its socket found at the top of the plug. I removed thiswith a small flat head screw driver by placing the screwdriver inside and then
colling the red clip away from the direction of the socket, this clip is fully capturedand stays attached to the plug so be carful. Once you have slid this back then youneed to push down in the top clip on the plug to remove it (much the same as
any plug in the engine bay)
The plug to the ignition loom it located here (its the white part in this picture
with the blue sire coming from it, please not that the blue wire in this picture ifsrom a later stage in the install)
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Step 3 splicing in to the ignition system
First you will need to cut the protective casing back on the loom so you can getaccess to the wires in the ignition loom. Once you have access to the wires in the
loom you will need to splice in to 2 of the 6 wires.Please note that some of the wire colours seem to vary from my experience.
Please take a look at the diagram in the service manual here I will be referring tothis instead of wire colours. The 2 wires you need to splice in to are the starter
motor wire and a 12volt supply.
Note that the diagram is of the actual socket on the ignition switch and not the
plug on the loom.
Wire A goes to the starter motor and Wire B is your 12volt supply.How you cut in to these wires is up to you however I tried removing the metal
spades from the plug and soldering about 4 inches on to them but this was verydifficult so I ended up with the 12volt supply (wire B) using a tail with a bullet
connector on the end. And the starter motor wire (wire A) I cut then crimped a
male bullet connector on one end and a female on the other.
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Step 4 Prepping the Relay Unit for installOk its now time to brake out the serious tools, as your going to be adding bullet
connectors to the ends of your relay wires now. This will make the actual install alot easier as it will then simply plug in to your new modified ignition loom.
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Looking at the image you will see 4 wires coming from the relay unit.Black is your Ground wire
Red is your 12volt supply for the illumination of the button
Green (next to the red) is your 12volt supply for your relay unit)Green (very top of the picture) goes to your starter motor circuit (wire A in step
3)
Starting with the Ground Wire strip this back and crimp on one of these
connectors with a hole through the centre. I then added a small length of heat
shrink for extra insulation (and probably because I am obsessed with the stuff)
Then depending on how you want to illuminate your start button this dependswhere you tap the red cable.
I wanted it to light up whenever the ignition was active so I joined the Red wire
with the Green next to it and crimped on a bullet connector to hold these
together I placed a length of heat shrink over the bullet connector and so fardown the wires, shrunk this on then added a small cable tie for extra security.
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This assembly is the part that will plug in to your 12 volt supply (point B in the
diagram in step 2)
And finally the top green sire in the picture.
Because of the way I added connectors to my ignition loom I had to cut this andplace both a male and female bullet connector on this wire. This is because while
on connector B I managed to solder an extra bit of wire with a bullet connector tothe spade connector inside the plug (by removing it first) However on Collector A
I did not and instead chose to splice the original wire and reconnect them with a
pair of bullet connectors.
So to do this wire I simply crimped a male bullet connector to the very end and
then added heat shrink (again) next of cut the same green wire about 3 inchesdown from the connector on the end. Stripped both wires of insulation and then
crimped female bullet connector on to this terminal. Again added heat shrink and
a small cable tir to stop these 2 wires from pulling apart.
A close up of the finished wire ends
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Step 5 Installing the relay box and wiring loom.
Now you have done all the prep work this is the simple bit.Its just a case of plugging the correct wires in to the correct connectors.
So if your following this step by step.The single green wire will plug in to the bullet connectors on Point A of the
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ignition wiring harness
The pair of wires (1 red and 1 green) will then plug in to your connector at pointB in the ignition loom.
And the Black ground wire I sandwiched between the dash trim and part of the
mounting sub frame here.
Simply remove the screw with a Phillips screwdriver place the earthing washer
between the metal part and the plastic dash then screw replace the screw making
sure its tightened down nicely.
This is roughly how your relay unit should look once its all connected up.
Note that I also used small pieced of heat shrink over where the bullet connectorsjoined each other to make sure all wires where insulated.
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Its now probably a good time to plug your button in to the relay unit and test to
make sure everything is wired in correctly and that your unit is working.
Annoyingly my original unit was faulty so I had to get this changed before
proceeding.As long as everything is working as it should be then its time to proceed to step6.
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Step 6 Removing the Centre ConsoleThis is a pretty simple process as the centre console is just held in place with 6
white clips the same style as found on the lower dash trim in stop 1.
I found it easier to use a small flat headed screw driver to slide down betweenthe centre console panel and the silver console edging and they gently price the
centre console upwards to release the clips being careful not to scratch the silverpaint.
The white arrows in this picture roughly show you where these clips are located.
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This picture is of the underside of the centre console showing the white clips
actual positions.
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Step 6.1 Disconnecting the seat heater switches
Now you have the centre console loose, and if you have heated seats you will
need to carefully tilt the console toward you and unplug both connectors that goto the seat heater switches.
This picture shows the connectors one white and one black. (on my car the white
one plugged in to a corresponding white switch socket and the black plugobviously fitted in to the black switch socket, these sockets can be seen in the
picture above)
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Step 6.2 Freeing the gear shift gaiter from the centre console.
I have the illuminated gear knob so could not be dealing with the bother to
unplug the power for it then remove tape and unscrew it, then the hassle of
fitting it again so
Simply remove the 4 phillips head screws from around the underside of the
centre console that retain the gear shift gaiter then gently push the gaitor and
plastic surround through the bottom of the console panel.
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The white arrows show the positions of each screw (one at each corner) I found it
easier to tilt the console away to remove the ones opposite me then towards me
to remove the screws closest to where I was sitting.
Now this is all done all that is left to do it simply lift away the centre console toreveal your work space.
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Step 6.3 removing the ashtrayThis again is simply a case of remove the 2 screws indicated by the white arrows
in the picture below
then gently but firmly pulling the ashtray up and away from the dash in adiagonal motion.
Taking care as there are cables attached to the back of this part. As shown in the
next picture.
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Step 7 Installing your Engine Start Button in your centre console panel.
Now its time to decide exactly where you want your button, if like me you want it
in the centre console between your gear shifter and the heated seat switchesthen its just a case of marking the exact position you want it in then carefully
drilling the hole with your 30mm hold cutter and cordless drill.
Once this is done, remove any stray plastic and clean the hold up. Place the start
button through the hole to try it for size. As long as it fits then all you now needto do it place the supplied rubber O ring over the back of the start button then
install the 38mm retention nut on top of that, make sure its straight then tighten
down with your 38mm spanner (as I only had a 36mm spanner I just made suremine was very tight using my fingers and it seems to have done the trick)
This is how it should look once in place.
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Step 8 Installing the start button wire
Your start button should already some with a length of wire already connected to
it, so its now just a case of threading it through and under where the ashtray will
go till you can pull it through under the steering column and plug it in to yourrelay box.
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once you have it threaded through the dash and connected to the relay box
ensure that you leave enough cable under your start button so that if you need to
remove the centre console its easy and can be placed on the passenger seat
without having to disconnect the wire from the relay box.
Then I secured the start button wire to the side or my illuminate gear knob wire
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with some small cable ties just to keep everything neat and tidy.
Now with everything connected up where it will go I would give it one
final test before replacing the centre console back in the reverse orderthat it all came apart.
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ready for pre assembly test.
Step 9 Securing the relay unit and wires and reassemblyThis is pretty self explanatory and is simply a case of making sure all your siresare neat and tidy and will not catch on anything. I simply cable ties them
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together through a look in the metal strut you see pictured then secured the relay
box to the green loom seen in the picture below with another 2 cable ties.
Once this is all done, make sure nothing is going to flip of move. Then reassemble
the steering column trims around the steering column.
Step 10 THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP!!!
Sit back marvel at your handy work and enjoy your new cool toy.
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