diy: ruffle-sleeved sundress!

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Every year, Dresses for Haiti donates unique, handcrafted dresses to victims of the devastating 2010 earthquake in Haiti. This tutorial is for those who would like to contribute to our mission and make dresses for young girls in Haiti. While you make yourself or a loved one a gorgeous new dress, consid- er making one—or a few—for young girls in Haiti. This overlaid, ruffle-sleeved dress does not require a pattern and can be styled in many different ways. Make a sporty statement with jersey-on-lycra, go ballerina-glam with organza-on-satin, or stay classy- chic with lace-on-cotton. We’d love for you to join our effort and follow us in this simple tutorial as you create a stunning, boat- necked sundress for a Haitian girl! DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress! Junior’s dress: Macy’s

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Page 1: DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

Every year, Dresses for Haiti donates unique, handcrafted dresses to victims of the devastating 2010

earthquake in Haiti. This tutorial is for those who would like to contribute to our mission and make

dresses for young girls in Haiti. While you make yourself or a loved one a gorgeous new dress, consid-

er making one—or a few—for young girls in Haiti.

This overlaid, ruffle-sleeved dress does not require a pattern and can be styled in many different ways.

Make a sporty statement with jersey-on-lycra, go ballerina-glam with organza-on-satin, or stay classy-

chic with lace-on-cotton.

We’d love for you to join our effort and follow us in this simple tutorial as you create a stunning, boat-

necked sundress for a Haitian girl!

DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

Junior’s dress: Macy’s

Page 2: DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

Materials

1) Dress Fabric: Lightweight cotton/cotton blends

You may use stretch fabric (i.e. interlock, cotton lycra) if desired.

Don’t use silk, satin, or anything slippery unless you feel comfortable using these materials.

Remember, matching seams can be difficult with certain prints (plaid, stripes, etc.) so take

this into consideration when choosing your fabric.

2 ) Overlay Fabric: Lace, organza, tulle, jersey-lycra, transparent cotton

Use sheer fabric. The dress fabric is supposed to “show” underneath the overlay.

3) Sewing Machine

All sewing machines are not created equal. Our settings simply serve as guidelines; please

experiment with your own machine to find your optimal stitch lengths and tensions.

4) Serger (optional)

5) Thread to match your fabric

6) Elastic Thread

7) Fabric Scissors

8) Ruler

10) Scrap Paper

11) Fabric Marker

Page 3: DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

Sizing

Ages (months) 3-6 6-9 9-12 12-18 18-24

Height (inches) 27 29 31 32.5 34

Chest (inches) 18 18.5 19.5 20 21

Hip (inches) 19 20 20 21 21

Recommended fabric length 18 18 20 20 22

Recommended fabric width 17 18 18 19 19

Recommended sleeve dimensions 13 “ 3 13.5 “ 3 13.5 “ 3 14 “ 3 14.5 “ 4

Age (Years) 2-3 3-4 4-5 5-6 7 8 10 12 14 16

Height (Inches) 38.5 41 43 46.5 51 - 52 53 - 54 55 - 57 58 - 59 60 - 62 63 - 64

Chest (Inches) 22 22.5 24 25 26.5 27.5 29 30.5 32 33.5

Hip (Inches) 22 23 24 25 26 29 31 33 34 36

Recommended fabric length 22 24 24 26 28 28 30 30 32 32

Recommended fabric width 20 22 22 25 26 26 28 28 30 34

Recommended Sleeve dimensions 14.5 “ 4 15 “ 4 16 “ 4 16.5 “ 4 17 “5 17.5 “5 17.5 “5 18 “ 5 18.5 “ 6 19 “ 6

Measurements for babies 3-24 months old

Measurements for girls 2-16 years old

The following chart gives a rough guide for fabric dimensions and sizing. It’s okay if your measurements

aren’t exact. We don’t know who we will be giving the dresses to yet, and we can utilize any sizes.

___________17 inches___________

Cut 2 of Dress Fabric

|__

____

____

18 in

ches

____

___

___|

Follow the diagram below for cutting your fabric.

These dimensions are for a 3-6 month old baby—adjust yours accordingly.

(Note: The figure is NOT drawn to scale.)

___________17 inches___________

Cut 2 of Overlay Fabric

|__

____

____

18

inch

es__

___

____

_|

|____

______

13 inch

es_____

________

________

|

3 in.__

Cu

t 2 of o

verlay fab

ric

Page 4: DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

Cut Arm and Neck Holes

Ages (months) 3-6 6-9 9-12 12-18 18-24

Armhole—diameter of circle 6 7 7 8 8

Neck hole—oval dimensions 5 X 3 5 X 3 6 X 4 6 X 4 6 X 4

Age (Years) 2-3 3-4 4-5 5-6 7 8 10 12 14 16

Armhole—diameter of circle 8 8 9 9 9 10 10 10 11 11

Neck hole—oval dimensions 6 X 4 6 X 4 7 X 4 7 X 4 8 X 4 8 X 4 8 X 4 9 X 5 9 X 5 9 X 5

Measurements for babies 3-24 months old

Measurements for girls 2-16 years old

Use a piece of scrap paper to draw a “pattern” for the arm and neck holes.

1. Draw a circle for the armhole with the measurements below.

2. Draw an oval for the neck hole with the measurements below.

3. Follow the diagram to cut the openings.

4. Cut the front and back of the fabric at the same time.

5. Cut the front and back of the overlay at the same time.

1 8 I N C H E S

_______________17 inches_______________________

_____5 inches____

_3 inch

es_

I_6 in

ches___I

___6 inches___

I_6

inch

es__

_I

___6 inches___

Follow the diagram below for cutting the neck and arm holes.

These dimensions are for a 3-6 month old baby—adjust yours accordingly.

(Note: The figure is NOT drawn to scale.)

Page 5: DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

Measure the waist

Ages (months) 3-6 6-9 9-12 12-18 18-24

Back Waist Length—mark on fabric 7 7 8 8 9

Age (Years) 2-3 3-4 4-5 5-6 7 8 10 12 14 16

Back Waist Length—mark on fabric 10 10 10 11 11 12 12 13 14 15

Measurements for babies 3-24 months old

Measurements for girls 2-16 years old

1. Measure from the top of the fabric down to the indicated “back waist length” measurement on the chart.

2. Use a colored pencil or fabric marker to mark a horizontal line across the fabric.

3. Mark another line 5/8 below the line you just drew.

4. Repeat step 3 twice.

5. Repeat steps 1-5 for the back of the dress, front of the overlay, and back of the overlay. You will refer to these lines

when you create the cinched waist.

|____________17 inches____________________|

|__

7 in

ches

____

____

_|

|__

____

____

____

____

____

__18

inch

es__

____

___

____

____

___

___

|

5/8 inches wide

5/8 inches wide

5/8 inches wide

|_2.5

in.__|

Follow the diagram to the right for draw-

ing the “waist-lines.”

These dimensions are for a 3-6 month old

baby—adjust yours accordingly.

(Note: The figure is NOT drawn to scale.)

Page 6: DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

1) Overcast or zigzag stitch around all fabric edges. (Or use a serger.

On the sewing machine: set both your stitch length and zigzag width at about 4.

Adjust this according to your machine and/or your preferred stitch widths and lengths.

2) Hem the bottom edges of all 4 pieces of fabric with a 1/4 inch seam.

If your machine cannot zigzag stitch and you do not have a serger, do a double-folded hem

on the bottom only (See figure below.)

Hemming and serging

Page 7: DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

Attach the overlay

1) With the right sides together, sew the shoulder seams together.

2) With the right sides together, sew the side seams together.

♥ ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. ♥

1) With the wrong side of the fabric facing the right side of the overlay, stitch the dress fronts and

backs together at the neckline and armholes.

2) Flip the overlay inside out.

3) Press the armhole and neckline seams with an iron. Stay-stitch around them with a 1/4 inch seam.

Page 8: DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

A) Loosely hand-wind the bobbin with elastic thread

You may be able to machine-wind the elastic thread. However, some machines cannot feed stretched-out elastic

thread through the plates. Experiment with your bobbins and thread on a scrap piece of fabric.

B) Load the bobbin normally.

For Brother Machines only: Many Brother machines require different shirring settings. (I use the longest stitch

length and a tension of 6.) I recommend using this video’s method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcELEGN9Rrk

Disclaimer: I do not discourage you from purchasing a brother machine. I use a limited-edition Project Runway Broth-

er machine, and it works wonderfully.

C) Set the stitch length and tension according to your machine’s shirring capabilities. (This will probably be a medi-

um tension and the longest stitch length.)

D) Stitch across the original “waist-lines” you drew—but do not backstitch!

Elastic shirring

Page 9: DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

Make the sleeves

At this point, you should have two pieces of overlay fabric for the sleeves.

1. Hem all 4 edges of the overlay fabric with a 1/4 inch hem.

If you used a serger to overcast the fabric, you can skip this step.

2. Sew the sides of the fabric together with a 5/8 inch seam.

3. Gather the ruffles with non-elastic thread.

4. Match the top-edge of the ruffles to the armholes, with the right sides of the fabric togeth-

er. Stitch in place with a 5/8 inch seam.

5. Topstitch the sleeve in place.

Page 10: DIY: Ruffle-Sleeved Sundress!

You’re done! Finished!

If desired, add extra trims and embellishments.

Go to dresses-for-haiti.tumblr.com and submit a picture of the dress you made. We will feature some of

your amazing outfits on our Tumblr!

We also will promote any blogs that will do the same for us in return.

If you would like to donate the dresses you sewed to a young girl in Haiti, send an email to in-

[email protected] detailing how many dresses you will be donating. We will email you some infor-

mation, regarding the next steps.

sundress! Stay tuned for more tutorials.

Email [email protected]

if you have any questions regarding

sewing or styling.

Congratulations!

You’ve just completed your boat-neck