diy wooden kitchen table pedestal base › ... › diy-wooden-kitchen-table.pdfsection of the...

DIY Wooden Kitchen Table

Pedestal Base

Copyright © 2019 Stephanie Abbott, AbbottsAtHome.com

1

These plans are currently free to email subscribers and for personal use only. They cannot be shared or sold without my permission. Please let me know if you have any questions and enjoy your build! :)

Find the full tutorial with build photos and finish steps here: https://abbottsathome.com/diy-wooden-kitchen-table/

More Build Plans from Abbotts At Home here: https://abbottsathome.com/build-plans/

See build previews and behind the scenes, on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/abbottsathome/

Abbotts At Home Tutorials and DIY Videos on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/AbbottsAtHome


2

https://abbottsathome.com/diy-wooden-kitchen-table/

https://abbottsathome.com/build-plans/

https://www.instagram.com/abbottsathome/

https://www.youtube.com/c/AbbottsAtHome

Here’s what you’ll need

• Osborne Wood's Transitional Table Pedestal #11732• 22' of 2" x 6" Pine Framing Lumbar• 1 - 8" - 3/4" thick wood, plywood, or MDF square (will be hidden under moulding)• 1 - 12" - 3/4" thick wood, plywood, or MDF square (will be hidden under moulding)• Pine Moulding

• 8' of 2 3/4" Pine Crown Moulding• 3' of 3 1/2" Thin (about 1/4 to 1/3") T&G Pine Plank• 3' of 1" Half-Round Pine Moulding• 7' of 2 1/4" Chair Rail Moulding• 5' of 1 1/4" Base Cap Moulding

• Tools • Table Saw and Miter Saw• Brad Nailer, Kreg Jig R3 and Power Drill• Wood Glue and Wood Filler• Screws and drill bits of various sizes


3

https://www.osbornewood.com/11732.aspx

https://amzn.to/35kBpMC

https://amzn.to/332VDJ9

https://amzn.to/3925HX4

Please Note: I painted my DIY Wooden Kitchen Table Base. This Wooden Pedestal Base would look great stained too. But, you'll need to sand it to a higher grit and be extra careful to sand off any excess wood filler or wood glue, before staining.

Don’t forget, you can find helpful build photos and a build overview video on the tutorial on my site.

Step One - Build the 1 1/2" and 3/4" Squares

Start by resawing the 2" x 6" Pine boards on your table saw, to square the edges. About 1/8" off each side should work.

Then, build 2 - 2" x 6" squares that are 17 1/2" on each side. Use your Miter Saw to cut 45-degree angles. If your Miter Saw isn't big enough to cut clean through the board, you can finish the cut with a Circular Saw or JigSaw.


4


Step One - Continued

I used Kreg Jig Pocket Holes and wood glue to join the squares. Wood glue alone with clamps to hold the pieces tight while drying, would be strong enough, but I didn't want to wait for the glue to dry before moving on. So, the pocket holes help me keep building instead of waiting for glue to dry.

Now, build the 2 - 2" x 6" squares that are 12" on each side. Use the same steps to cut and join the 12" wood squares. Sand both squares smooth up to 150-grit before continuing. Sanding these squares is easier before assembly than after.

Finally, cut 2 - 3/4" squares from wood, MDF, or plywood. These will not be seen, so feel free to use whatever you have on hand. One square should be 8" and the other 12". These squares add extra height to this DIY Wooden Kitchen Table pedestal.


5

https://amzn.to/332VDJ9

Step Two - Build Up the Bottom of the Pedestal Base

Glue and screw one of the 12" - 1 1/2" thick pine squares to the bottom of the Osborne Wood Pedestal. Countersink the screws - use 2 1/2" screws so that they go through the 12" square, into the Osborne pedestal.

Make sure it is centered before screwing them together. Also, make sure those screws are at least an inch inside the 8" square pedestal base. Using glue and screws to attach the pedestal to the squares makes this DIY pedestal strong enough to handle decades of use.

This diagram shows the bottom of the 12” square with the screws.


6

Step Two – continued

Now, glue and brad nail the 12" - 3/4" thick square to the bottom of the 12" - 1 1/2" thick square. Then, you're ready to add the bottom square.


7

Step Two – continued

Countersink 4 holes in the bottom of the 17 1/2" square. This time use 4 - 3" screws to attach the 17 1/2" square, from the bottom. Again, make sure everything is centered.

The 3" screws can be 3" Kreg Screws or 3" #8 screws. These screws are long enough to go through the bottom, middle, and part of the top level of squares.

Carefully measure where the screws will go, to make sure they will be at least an inch inside that 12" square.


8

Step Three - Building up the Top of the Pedestal Base

Now we can add the square layers on the top of the pedestal. First, unscrew and remove the bolts that were attached to the pedestal when Osborne sent it.

Then, glue and brad nail the 3/4" thick 8" square on to the top of the pedestal. Make sure it's lined up with the pedestal edges.


9

Step Three - Continued

Then glue and screw the 1 1/2" thick 12" square to the top of the pedestal. Countersink 4 - 3" long screws to make sure the screws connect that 12" square all the way into the 8" square Osborne Wood Pedestal. Carefully measure where the screws will go, to make sure they will be at least an inch inside that 8" square.


10

Step Three - Continued

Then glue and screw the 1 1/2" thick 17 1/2" square to the top of that 12" square. Countersink 4 - 2" long screws to make sure the screws connect that 17 1/2" square to the 12" square.

Carefully measure where the screws will go, to make sure they will be at least an inch inside that 12" square. That's it for building up this DIY Wooden Kitchen Table Pedestal Base. Yay!


11

Step Four – Add the Moulding (diagram on next page)

Before we get started, let's talk moulding. You can probably find PVC or MDF versions of some of this moulding. BUT, I really recommend using wood in this case since it is stainable, stronger and much easier to sand and get a nice smooth finish.

I love finish carpentry and moulding as much as I love chocolate. And, that's a lot, guys! So, I use it often and have a lot of practice with it. If you don't, just take your time and double-check all measurements before making them. I think it's easier to cut and attach 1 piece at a time. Then measure for the next and attach that. My cuts tend to be more precise that way.

The trim moulding on the top of this pedestal base is a bit simpler than the bottom. Use 2 1/4" Chair Rail Moulding around the 8" square section of the pedestal. And, 1 1/4" Base Cap Moulding around the 12" square section of the pedestal. That's it for the top of this DIY Wooden Kitchen Table Pedestal trim moulding.

Now for the moulding on the bottom of the pedestal. First, use glue and brad nails to install 2 3/4" crown moulding upside down against the 12" square and on the 17" square at the bottom of the pedestal. Be careful installing this crown, it can be confusing. Take your time and pay attention to your angles.

Next, glue and brad nail a 3 1/2" T & G plank to the Osborne pedestal bottom. You can typically buy this T & G plank in a bundle of 6 - 8' long boards. I happened to already have. If you don't want to buy a whole pack of this, you can substitute anything you want, like maybe just 1/4" plywood.

Above that T & G plank, glue and nail 1" half-round round trim. Then against the bottom of the beadboard, glue and brad nail 2 1/4" Chair Rail Moulding upside down. That's it for the bottom of this DIY Wooden Kitchen Table Pedestal Base.


12

Step Four - Diagram


13

DESIGN NOTE

I went with a 17 1/2" wide base to make sure it looked nice and chunky, wasn't so small that it would tip easily, and also wasn't so big that our feet wouldn't fit under the table. I added a 42" Round Top to this pedestal table.

In my opinion, this size of pedestal would work with 41" to 45" round tables. If you want a larger top, I'd increase the size of the squares to prevent the table from easily tipping when someone presses down on the edges.

Step Five – Wood Filler Time!

Now, let's make everything look pretty. Use your favorite wood filler (I used this one) on all of those brad nail holes, where all the moulding corners meet, and in any gaps between the moulding and the pedestal. Let that dry according to the directions.

Sand the wood filler flush with the wood. I used 150-grit. Reapply the wood filler in any spots that need it. Then let dry and sand again.

You can see how I painted my pedestal, built the round top, and put a professional looking stain finish on the top on my blog. I’ll be sharing full steps and how-to videos for all 3.

You can also see what this pedestal looks like stained on that same blog post (here: https://abbottsathome.com/diy-wooden-kitchen-table/).

Have fun with your build!


14

https://amzn.to/3925HX4





15

diy wooden kitchen table pedestal base › ... › diy-wooden-kitchen-table.pdfsection of the...

Documents