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CONTENTS

FOREWORDBYDANIELBOULUDINTRODUCTION

1TIMEISANINGREDIENTTHECANNELÉTESTTHEBRIEFLIFEOFTHEMADELEINELONGLIVETHEMACARONMEMORIESWITHINACOOKIE

2BEYONDTHECOMFORTZONETHEPAVLOVAWEAKSPOTINSPIREDBYAPEEPCRACKINGTHECHOCOLATEEGGSAVINGCEREALFORCHRISTMAS

3DON’TLISTENTRUSTTHEDKABREAKINGTHESOUFFLÉLAWSTHEREALCRONUT™LESSONETERNALLYVANILLA

4WHAT’SINANAME?PERFECTINGALITTLEEGGSANDWICHDRESSUPWITHTHERELIGIEUSEANEWYORKPASTRYME,MINIME,ANDMERINGUES

5CREATEANDRE-CREATETHECHEESECAKE’SFORGOTTENHERITAGESWITCHINGOUTHAMFORJAMÓNTHEAPPLETARTOFMYEYEONEBITEOFCHOUQUETTE

6EVERYTHINGBUTTHEFLAVORTHESUNFLOWERTARTILLUSIONAS’MOREFORALLSEASONSASWEETPOTATOSUBSTITUTEBAKINGPIEINALASKAWHATPURPLETASTESLIKETHEBREAKABLEARLETTE

7NEVERRUNOUTOFIDEASGINGERBREADNEEDNOTBEHOUSESATARTFROMADREAMTHEMARSHMALLOW’SDISGUISEABESPOKELIMETART

RECIPES

ATOASTBEFOREBAKING

BEGINNERRECIPES

HOTCHOCOLATECHOCOLATEPECANCOOKIESMINIMADELEINESMINIME’SPOPCORNCHOUQUETTESMARSHMALLOWCHICKSVANILLAICECREAMAPPLETARTTATINTHEPURPLETART

INTERMEDIATERECIPES

CANNELÉDEBORDEAUXVANILLARELIGIEUSECOTTON-SOFTCHEESECAKEPARIS–NEWYORKPERFECTLITTLEEGGSANDWICHBLACKANDBLUEPAVLOVA

PINKCHAMPAGNEMACARONSAPPLEMARSHMALLOWSUNFLOWERTARTCHRISTMASMORNINGCEREAL“LIMEMEUP”TARTFROZENS’MORESARLETTE

ADVANCEDRECIPES

CHOCOLATECAVIARTARTTHEANGRYEGGDOMINIQUE’SKOUIGNAMANNS(DKA)MAGICSOUFFLÉTHEAT-HOMECRONUT™PASTRYIBÉRICOANDMAHÓNCROISSANSWEETPOTATOMONTBLANCGINGERBREADPINECONEBAKEDALASKA

ADDITIONALTECHNIQUES

COOKINGCUSTARDPÂTEÀCHOUXPIPINGTEMPERINGCHOCOLATELAMINATION

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSABOUTDOMINIQUEANSELINDEX

TOA.FROMACASEOFCHERRIESTOALIFEOFCHEERING,

YOUINSPIREMEEVERYDAY.D.

FOREWORD

IamproudtocontributetoDominique’s firstbook,notonlyasa formeremployerandlongtimefriend,but,moreimportant,becauseIliketothinkwebothshareaspecialkinshipasdreamers.Greatchefsdon’task“Why?”They ask “Why not?” They aren’t afraid of a challenge and they aren’tafraidtobreaktherules.Buttheyalsohavethetechnicaltrainingnecessaryto playwith recipeswhile intuitively knowingwhich crucial steps shouldnot be sacrificed. Dominique has demonstrated—and will continue todemonstrate—theseexceptionalqualities.

While he was the pastry chef at Daniel, Dominique challenged us toexperiment more. He often tapped into our savory pantry or looked toother cultures for inspiration.Hewas the first to introduce to the pastrymenu elements like basil seeds, olive oil powder, horchata ice cream, andshisosorbet.HistalentwasinreachingafarforsomethingexcitingandthenworkinguntilitmadesensewithinourdeterminedlyFrenchmenu.

He approached classic American flavors with the naive curiosity of astudentinhisfirstcookingclass.Whydothecombinationsofpeanutbutterandchocolate—orKeylimeandgrahamcracker—getpeoplesoexcited?

However,healsorespectedcertainrecipesandkeptthemastheywere.Ourmagicalmadeleine,forexample:thatsimplycannotchange,becauseithasbecomesoiconictoourcustomers,whohavecommitteditstasteandtexturetomemory.

IrememberwhenDominiquewasreadytobranchoutonhisown.Asachef-owner,Ialwaysfocusonourownprogram,butIstronglysupportthetalent ofmy teammembers. Iwas happy to see that he couldmake hisdreamscometrueonhisown.Likeallofourformerpastrychefs,hehasleftanimprintthatwillberemembered.

When Dominique opened his pastry shop in SoHo, he jumped frommanaging a ten-item pastry menu with one service to an all-day menuconsisting of viennoiseries, pastries, desserts, cookies, candies, sandwiches,andmore.His passion for constant improvement is palpable,whether it’sontheclassicsthathehaspracticedsincehisveryfirst jobinParis,oronthe creationshediscoveredwhileonhis global travels. I ampleased that

DominiquehascontinuedtorepresenttheDNAofFrenchpatisseriewhileembracingatrueNewYorkjenesaisquoi.ItemsonhismenusuchastheParis–NewYork,whichhasthetextureofaParis-BrestandthetasteofaSnickersbar,isagreatexampleofahybridfromhisimagination.

Ihadnodoubtthathewouldexcelandbecomethesensationthatheistoday,althoughperhapsnotevenIcouldhaveanticipatedthemediafrenzythatensuedovertheCronut™pastry!AslongasIcanhaveaseatonhiscozypatiotoenjoyhislatestcreationwithanespresso,I’llbehappy.Ihopethat as you read this book, you will be inspired to create not just therecipeswithin,butalsotothinkcreativelyinyourownday-to-daybakingadventures,justasDominiquewouldhaveyoudo.

—DANIELBOULUD,CHEF-OWNER,RESTAURANTDANIEL,NEWYORKCITY

INTRODUCTION

Iwasthirty-fouryearsoldwhenIopenedmyownbakery,butbythenIhad alreadybeenworking in akitchen formore thanhalfmy life. I firstwalkedintoaprofessionalkitchenattheageofsixteen,andIdon’tthinkIcanimagineadaywhenIwouldeverleave.Iwastaughttocooktheold-fashionedway.Within the ranksof theFrenchkitchenbrigade, your jobwassimple:

1.Lookcloselyatwhatyourchefisdoing.2.Copyitasexactlyasyoucan.3.Repeathundredsoftimes.

Itfeltliketracingthelettersofsomeoneelse’shandwriting,untilyounolonger remembered your own. And while this method trains highlyproficientcooks,itdoesn’tnurtureinnovators.

Something’swrongwith the system.Cooks should be taught not onlyhowtoreplicate,butalsohowto innovate.Learninghowtoperformasettask is certainly easier than finding a whole new way to interpret it.Inspirationcan’tbemeasuredonascale.Passioncan’tbechoppeduponacuttingboardor added to a recipe—like seasoning—atwill.But all thesefactorsmustbepresenttoproducesomethingtrulygroundbreaking.

Peopleoftenaskme if Ikeepmy recipesunder lockandkey.On thecontrary,theyareprintedoutandkeptinabluefolderinthekitchenforalltoaccess.Recipesarejustpiecesofpaper.Noratioofingredientsorlistofinstructionscouldeverbethekeytosuccess.Therealsecretsarehiddeninthestoriesbehindeachcreation.Andthat’swhatIwillsharewithyouinthisbook.

This is theway I teach theyoungpastrychefswhocome throughmykitchenhowtonotjustcook,buthowtocreate.

Ihavedividedthisbookintotwosections.Inthefirst,IrevealwhatI’velearned as I crafted some of my favorite pastries. These lessons can beapplied to all areas of life. A bite-size cake can teach you about thepreciousnessof time.Atartcanshowyouhowtodream.Ascoopof ice

cream can renew your appreciation of simplicity. The second half of thebookholdstherecipestosomeofmymostsought-aftercreations.This iswhereyouhaveachance togetyourhandsdirty, soyoucan followmyfootstepsinyourkitchen.Andmyhopeisthatsomedayyouwillgoontoexplorenewgroundofyourown.

Happybaking,eating,and—mostofall—creating!

1

TIMEISANINGREDIENT

Weeatthousandsofmealsinourlifetimes,butjustafractionofthem are impactful enough to endure in our memory. Andsometimes eating, much like breathing, becomes nothing morethanasecondaryaction.Repetitionofanyactiondullsthesensesover time, but imagine if you could hit reset and treat eachmoment as the first. Even themost ordinary things can unlockthemostprofoundinspirations.

Forme,myfirstrealmemoryoffoodisasimpleone:thewarmthofthebaguettebetweenmylegsasmydaddrovehomefromtheneighborhoodbakery;thesmelloftheyeastfillingthecar;thecrinkleofthewaxpaperbag;andthecrunchofthecrustasIwrestledoffpieceafterpiece,starting

from the heel, and devoured them with delight. That baguette did notsurvivelongenoughtomakeittothefamilydiningtable.Thevividnessofthismemorylingersinmymindlikeascenefromadream.

Just what about this baguette—from a no-name bakery, made by thehands of an unknownbaker—made it stand out from all the othermoreextravagantmeals I’ve had? I struggled to find the answer for years, andthenrealizeditwasallabouttiming.Somuchoffoodandgoodcookingisjust that: paying attention to the invisible yet indispensable ingredient oftime. Just as every flower blooms until its peak right before the blossomwilts, all foods—in fact, all creations—have that perfectmoment aswell.Andwhen the timing is right, a simple thing canbecome transformative.Pureandimmaculate,itcannourishnotonlythesenses,butalsothesoul.

Preparing a great pastry is always a rush or a wait for that perfectmoment.

Every crusty, custardy, sweet cannelé resists the shortcuts cooks try touseinmakingthem.Thereisnocheatingwhenitcomestoacannelé,andinthesepagesyou’lllearnwhy.I’lltalkaboutmadeleinesandhowthey’resimilartocherryblossomsinthebeautyandthebrevityoftheirshelflife.Just five minutes out of the oven, and they are a completely differentproduct.Theoppositeholds true for themacaron, and I explainwhy it’soneof the itemsnotmeant tobeeatenfresh.Finally, I sharemystoryofwhy I’veneverhadadecentchocolatechipcookie inFrance,andwhy Ithinkmomentsintimehaveeverythingtodowiththat.

Weliveinaworldwhereeverycreationstrivestobebothinstantaneousand eternal. To respect time as the supreme ingredient is a battle ofbreaking habits and changing perceptions. Nobody likes to wait; nobodylikes to rush. But when you treat time as an ingredient, it changeseverything.

THECANNELÉTEST

Thereisalwaysthetemptationto“cheat.”Inschoolonatest,atworkonaproject,andinthekitchen.Weallwanttofast-forwardtothegoodparts.

So you start to thinkofwhat you can dowithout.Youdon’thave togently stir milk with a wooden spoon as it boils; leaving it there prettymuchdoesthetrick.Andwhileeggsworkwellincertainrecipesatroomtemperature,youdon’twanttowaithoursforthemtogetthere.WhenIfirstenteredmyculinarytraining,aninstructortoldme,“Takingshortcutsisnotcheating.It’sgettingtothesamedestination,butfaster.”Thatyear,Idiscovered new techniques, improved my efficiency, and found fastermethods to make almost everything . . . until I tried my hand at thecannelé.

A pastry from Bordeaux, the cannelé is not much for looks. On theoutside, there’sadark,hardshell thatcanbemistaken forburnt.But forthosewhobiteintothecrunchyexterior,thereistheilluminatingrewardofatender,flan-likecore,richwiththescentofvanillaandrum.Toachievethosedelicatelybalancedresults, there isonlyoneroad,andnoshortcuts.Thecannelédemandsyourtime;itmagnifiesyourmistakes.

The first decision to make is what type of mold to purchase. Thetraditionalcoppermoldsfromwhichthecannelégetsitssignatureshapearesmall, cylindrical, and striated. They must first be seasoned by brushingmeltedbeeswaxintheinteriorandheatingeachmoldintheovenfourorfive times, until themetal pores have absorbed thewax, a process you’llneed to repeatoneor two times after everywash toprevent yourbatterfromsticking.Ifyoutryaneasieroption,likeanonsticksiliconemold,youwill lose thatcrunchy,caramelizedexterior,and insteadtheresultwillbespongyandsoft.Don’tdoit—staythecourse.

When it comes to the point ofmaking the batter—a relatively simplerecipesimilartothatforacrêpe—youmustmixslowly.Rushtheprocessandyou’llendupwithlargebubbles inyourcustardinsteadofthesmall,effervescent ones you should be achieving for that perfect texture. Andwhatawaitsyouaroundthebendisanotherendurancetest:atwenty-four-hourwait for thegluten in thebatter to rest, ensuring that your cannelé

risesstraightupinthemoldwhenyoubakeit.Trytocheatthesystemandyou’llgetamisshapencanneléfullofholes.

Youaren’tevendonewhenyouputthecanneléintheoven.Thesheetpanonwhichthemoldrestsneedstoberotatedeveryfifteenminutesorsoasthecannelébakes.Evennow,soclosetothefinishline,theproductwillsinklikeasouffléwithoutcarefulattention.

A cannelé isn’t just a pastry; it is proof of the cook’s patience anddedication.Somecreationsdemandeverythingyouhaveanddon’tdignifyanythinglessthanyourbesteffortswiththeperfectoutcome.Wehaveallbeentemptedbyaneasierpath.Perhapsnoonesawtheplaceswherewecut the corners, or caught us brushing certain things under the rug. Butthat’sthedifferencebetweenthosepiecesofworkandamasterpiece.Thesame lessonapplies to themostchallenging tasksdowntoa simplemeal.Myadvicewouldbe to skip the flashydinner for two thenext timeyouwant to show you care—nothing says “I love you” like a single perfectcannelé.

THEBRIEFLIFEOFTHEMADELEINE

Stop thinkingofadessert as just anobject, and start seeing it as a livingthing.Andthen,trytoreallybelieveit.

ThewayIseeit,thefirsttimeingredientstouchmyhands,itsetsoffaspark of life that runs through the dish I’m working on. If the SistineChapelwerereinterpretedbythemindofacook,Godwouldbewearingatoqueandhis fingerwouldbereachingout forakitchen tool.We’veallfelt it—there’s an inherent energy of life behind every dish. Leftovercasserolesdeepenincharacter.Herbswilt,thenblossomwhentheyhitthehotsurfaceofmeat,unlockingtheirinnerfragrance.Acartonoficecreamsitting at room temperature starts to soften and temper as if awakeningfromhibernation. Food changes andgrows; it lives and then it also dies.And for the fleeting and forever young madeleine, death comes all toosoon.

Fresh out of the oven, these small, scallop-shaped cakes shine in amomentary glory. A slightly crispy edge givesway to a golden, etherealcenterthatreleasesjustatinypuffofsteaminyourmouth,asifexhalingitslastbreath.

Butjustfiveminutesafteryourintroduction,everythingstartstochange.Theonce-pillowybitesbecomeasdenseaspebbles.Thecrispyedgesturnstickyandstale.Andthe lightdustingofconfectioners’ sugar fades intoagrayish hue as it soaks into the crumb. Dull and lackluster, the latemadeleinesitsinfrontofyouhardenedanddry—theveryembodimentofwhatapastrycorpsewouldlooklike.Blinkandyou’llmissitatitsbest.

Just one experience of the short and precious life of the madeleineshould teachyou that it’snotonlyabout thecooking,butalsoabout theeating.When youmake something to be enjoyed, the creation is just asmuchaboutthepersononthereceivingendastheonewhoproducedit.Themadeleinedemandsthatbothchefandtasterstoptheirplans,standbytheoven,andwait.ItremindsmeofthetimeIwokeuptoseethesunrise.Stumblingaroundinthedarknessandstaringattheviolet-bluetwilightforlong, sleepy moments until those gratifying few minutes when the sunpeekedoutfromthehorizon.It’soneofnature’sbestartworksandcannotbecapturedbyanymuseum.Theonlyoptionistowait.

Thisiseasiersaidthandone.Everyoneunderstandsthegenerallogicofa“lifespan”forfood,butwhenyouaskthemtoreallybelieve,torespectit,andtowait,itbecomesadifferentstory.Weallhaveplans;weallneedtobe somewhere. And sometimes it seems easy to buy a prepackagedmadeleinerichwithgreasybutterthathelpskeepitaliveforlongerandallbutwipesoutitstruenature.

Imakemymadeleines toorder. Idon’tpipe themorbake themuntilsomeone is standing there waiting for them. And as they stand there,rushedandfrustratedathavingtocompromisetheirlifeandtheirscheduleforapastry,theyoftenaskmewhytheyshouldbotherwaiting.

“Quitesimply,”Ianswer,“itisamatteroflifeanddeath.”

“FOODCHANGESANDGROWS;ITLIVESANDTHENITALSODIES.ANDFORTHEFLEETINGANDFOREVERYOUNGMADELEINE,DEATHCOMESALLTOOSOON.”

LONGLIVETHEMACARON

Noonepaidmuchattentionto the threeoldcooksatFauchon,myalmamaterandtheplacewhereI“graduated”tobecomeaworkingpastrycook.Somecouldn’ttellthemapart:eachonesportedthesamebushymustache,roundbelly,andgrayinghair.Decadesagotheywereyoungboys,asIwaswhenIfirstenteredthekitchensofthispastryinstitution.Butnowintheirfifties, theyhad lost their youthful competitiveness andquietly faded intothe background like the walls or shelves. These men were my secretweapon.

Whenever I came across a problem I couldn’t solve, one of themseemedtohavetheanswer.Theycouldn’texplaintheirreasoninginwords,buttheirhandsknewthewaytomanipulateingredientsuntiltheyobeyed.Oneofthem,Didier,hadthesoletaskofmakingmacarons.TheseFrenchalmondmeringuecookiesconsumed ten to twelvehoursofhisdayashemixedthebatter,thenpipedandfilledhundredsoftheminthebasementkitchenoftheFauchonflagshiponthePlacedelaMadeleineinParis.

Upstairsinthebrightlylitshop,perfumedladiesgiggledastheypointedtheirmanicured fingersathis jewel-likework, thecolorsasvividas theirlipsticks.Thatfirstbitewasalwaysanexperience:agossamer-thinshellthatcrunchedslightlywith thegentlepressureofyour teeth,which then sankintoamoist,tendercenterwithavibrantburstofflavor.“Freshhandmademacaronsarethelatesttreat,”oneladygushedwithdelight.

Andshewascorrectonallbutonepoint.Yousee,well-mademacaronsarenotactually“fresh.”Justoutoftheoven,themacaronshellsareinfactdryandbrittleontheedges.Andwhilemostpastriesareattheirbestfreshandjustbaked,themacaronisacounterexample.

Theprocessofmakingapropermacaroninvolvesacrucialstepinwhichitmustsitintherefrigeratorforatleastadaytoabsorbthehumidityfromthesurroundingairaswellasmoisturefromthefilling.It’sthistemperingprocess that rehydrates and revives it to give a great macaron itsincomparabletexture.Inasense,amacaronmust“livealittle”andcomeintoitsfullcharacterwithtime.

Themacaron is a latedeveloper in aworldobsessedwith freshness asthe ideal. But like the cook whose hands probably touched every well-

lovedFauchonmacaroninParisfordecades,olderdoesn’tnecessarilymeanlesser.

Yearslater,Fauchonmoveditsproductionoperationstoalargerfacilityawayfromthestore.Didiermovedwithit.Thecompanyinvestedmoneyinto a high-speedmacaron-pipingmachine,which he learned to operate.ButIswearthatDidiercouldpipejustasfastorevenfasterbyhand.Onhis own, he produced more than two or three times the number ofmacaronsthandidmenhalfhisage,andhistenureatFauchonimpressivelyoutlastedmanyof itsgreatestpastrychefs. Itdidn’t alwayscomeeasy forDidier,I’msure.Butwithtimecamemastery.

When I rose up the ranks far enough to manage my own team atFauchon,Isawtheyoungapprenticesbeneathmepanicinfrustrationwhentheirhandshadn’tdevelopedthedexteritytodowhattheywereinstructed.Thequalityof their initialworkwas somethingDidierwould’ve frownedupon, but it was also the story ofDidier that became themotivation tokeepthemtrying.

“AMACARONMUST‘LIVEALITTLE’ANDCOMEINTOITSFULLCHARACTERWITHTIME.”

MEMORIESWITHINACOOKIE

Thenewspaperheadlinecaughtmyeye:AMERICA’SFAVORITEDESSERTISTHE

COOKIE.Below,aparagraphreportedthatsevenoutoftenAmericanschosethecookieastheirfavoritebakedgood,with10percentclaimingtheyateacookieeverysingleday.SittingthereinmytinyapartmentinFranceattheage of twenty-five, Iwas baffled by these statistics. I had never been toAmerica,andIhadyettotasteacookieIactuallyliked.

WhenIwasgrowingup,cookieswereoneoftheleastpopularitemsinmy neighborhood bakery. Childrenwouldmuch prefer a croissant or anéclairoveranycookie,whichsatonthebackshelvesanddriedoutasthedaypassed.Yetsomehow,anoceanaway,therewasanentirenationthatsharedagenuineandunanimousloveforthisonetriumphantproduct.NosinglepastryinFranceunitesthepeopleinthesameway.

The first time I ever visited theUnited States, I tried every cookie Icould find in the stores.Theydidn’t taste that different from theones inFrance,Ithought.Nothingexoticoroutoftheordinary.ButIwatchedtheeyesoflocalslightupwithpassionwhenaskedthesimplequestion:What’syourfavoritecookie?

Their answers were always different. Thick or thin, crispy or chewy,withorwithoutnuts—everyonedefendedtheirchoicesvehemently.Someliked chocolate chip, some preferred oatmeal raisin. I learned what asnickerdoodlewas.Everyoneagreed they lovedcookies,butdisagreedonwhat made a good cookie. “I make my cookies with milk and darkchocolate chips,”oneperson toldme. “Usebrown sugar,” came anothertip.“Iliketousemolassesformine,”someoneadded.

Andthen—abreakthrough.Irealizedeveryonewasspeakingtomefromthe perspective of a cook, not a customer. The cookies in their mindsweren’t theonestheypurchased,buttheonestheymadethemselves.Formany of these people, cookies were the very first thing they baked aschildren. They remembered emptying the chocolate chips into the bowl,rolling small balls of dough, and watching them spread and bake in theoven. Itwas an after-school pastime or aweekend activity. Itwas for aloved one as a gift, or a tradition during the holidays. And everyonepinpointedasthegreatestsatisfactionthatfinalrevealfromtheoven,when

they could bite into a warm, just-baked cookie. These people were nolongermerelytastingtheflavors;theyweretastingamomentintime.

Time is not simply a measurement of minutes and hours, but also akeeper of experiences. Even people who have very different tastes feelunitedbytherolesthatfoodplaysintheirlives.Andtrulygreatcreationstransport us to another time bymaking a connection that transcends thepresent.Thecookieistheultimatetimetraveler.

The first time I actually enjoyed a cookiewaswhen Imade itmyselffromscratchwithmysouschefinthekitchensoftheNewYorkrestaurantDanielduringmyfirst fewyears there.She,ofcourse,hadmade itmanytimesgrowingupintheUnitedStates.Itwaslateatnightandwehadjustfinishedanespecially toughday.Wepouredchocolatechips intoabowl,werolledthedoughintoroundballsandflattenedthemslightly,andthenwewaited by the oven for them to bake.The ones thatwemadewerechocolaty, flourless, slightlycrispyontheedges likethecornerpieceofabrownie, and extramoist, almost cake-like in the center. Itwas the firstcookiethatwasmine.

Today, that’s the type of cookie Imake. It’s a recipe that youmightwanttoalterandadapttoyourowntastes.Butit’swhatIconsidertobethebestcookie,forthesamereasonseveryoneelsehastheirownfavorites.Andwe’reallabsolutelyright.

“TRULYGREATCREATIONSTRANSPORTUSTOANOTHERTIMEBYMAKINGACONNECTIONTHATTRANSCENDSTHEPRESENT.THECOOKIEISTHEULTIMATETIMETRAVELER.”

2

BEYONDTHECOMFORTZONE

Firstsarealwaysuncomfortable.A first taste,a first look,a firstattempt—despite the promise of something new just beyond—eachisapproachedwithapauseandthenanuncertainfirststep.Andformanyofus,no“first”causesmoreanxietythanthefirstdayofwork.

There are two first days I’ll always remember. September 1,1999, was my first day of work at Fauchon. I’ll never forget

stumbling throughthe legendaryParisianpastryhouse’smazeofhallwaysanddoorsuntilIfoundtheproductionkitchen.

Eightyearslater,IwalkedintotherestaurantDanielinNewYorkwiththesameuncertainfootsteps.

It’s amazing how similar the two days were. In both cases, I wasimmediately handed my uniform. At Fauchon it was the signature blackcottonwithhot-pinkstitching,whichIworealongwithagroupofeagerguyswhowereallcompetingforjustonefull-timeposition.AtDaniel, itwaswhite, crisply ironed, and hadmy name stitched onto the pocket ingolden-bronzethread.AnddespitetheyearsthatseparatedmyfirstdaysinParis with those in New York, where I entered as the executive pastrychef,Istillfeltlikeafishoutofwater.

Iwasn’tworriedaboutmytechnicalskillsorabilitytomanageakitchenteam,but I quickly realized thatNewYorkworkedby adifferent setofrules. Here, the chef was no longer king; instead, every customer whocameinthedoorheldahighersovereignty.Substitutions,specialrequests,andaccommodationswerenottheexceptionherebutthenorm.OverthenextsixyearsatDaniel,Ilearnedoneimportantlesson:atrulyappreciatedcreationisn’tmadeforthecreator,butfortheaudiencetoenjoy.

This chapter is aboutmy trek beyondmy comfort zone. I confessmyhatredofworkingwithmeringuebut sharehowconfronting the pavlovataughtmetofindjoyingreatobstacles.Oneparticularchocolatecreationredefinedmyconceptofbeautyanddestruction,andItellthatstory,too.Italk about how my journey to make marshmallow chicks revealed thedifficultiesofpickingupanewtraditionandofbridgingthegapbetweenwhat may seem incompatible at first glance. And finally, I explore theterritoryofcreatingfoodthatmusttravelandhowIovercameitwithmyownmixofcereal.

Creativity requires effort. It is always a strain, a leap beyond theperipheryofcomfort.Withthesenewrecipes,bepreparedtofeelasIdid—uncomfortable.Pastryisnotanintuitivestudy;whenyouhaven’tworkedwithsimilartoolsinthesamesteps,there’sanaturalclumsiness.Butwhenthe day arrives that you feel completely at ease with the recipes withinthese pages, promiseme that youwillmoveon to another book, and inthatprocessbecomeanevenbettercook.

BytheendofJanuary2000,ImanagedtobeatouttwentyorsoothercooksforonehighlycovetedpositionatFauchon.Later,IfiguredthatifIcould do that, I would be up for the challenge that awaited me in theStates,where Iwould oversee the dessertmenu atDaniel, having at thetimenever created aplateddessert for a restaurant—averydifferent skillset from bakery desserts—in my life. At my formal inauguration, chefDanielBouludstoodnexttomeatthemanager’smeetingandintroducedme to the entire team.“Dominique,”he said, “welcome toAmerica.” Itwas a new job, a new country, and a newer world than I had everimaginedI’dexperience.Butthat’sthewholepointnow,isn’tit?

THEPAVLOVAWEAKSPOT

Hereisasecret:Ihatemeringues.Somethingabout thecrunchas theycrumbleunder thepressureofmy

fork is like nails screeching across a chalkboard.Their fragile, light-as-airdemeanor, which is always threatening to crack, has been my culinarykryptonite. Every hair onmy forearms stands up in absolute rejection ofthesedried-outsugaredeggwhites.

I can’t explain why. But I firmly believe that anyone who walks farenough down the avenues of their craft eventually stumbles upon theirstrengths as well as their weaknesses. There are harmonies and discords,lovesandhates.Youhavetostartcookingtodiscoverthem.

Coldhandsmakeworkingwithdoughasmootherprocess,allowingyoutolineyourtartshellsorlaminatecroissantswithease,withoutmeltingthebutter or fat within. Dexterous fingers are perfect for adding those finalflourishes of fruit and décor to a pastry. And sensitive skin can detecttemperatures of cooling chocolate with more precision during thetemperingprocess.Everyonehastheirownknackthatreveals itself inthebeginningstagesoftheirlearningprocess.It’sthethingsthatgoagainstournatural faculties that canblockourability tobe truecreators.Whenyoufindoutwhatthoseareforyou,thefirststepistoconfess.

Withoutrealizing it, Ihadalwaysrefrained fromservingmeringuesonmymenus.Comparedtomoussesoricecreams,itwasn’tthemostpopularitemandsoyearspassedbeforeIpaidmuchattentionto it.That is,untilthe gluten-free revolution. With so many customers cutting wheat fromtheirdiet,meringuehadthepotentialtobecomeakeyplayerinthepastryworld. And one summer, I experienced a deluge of requests for thepavlova, a simple dessert composed from a trifecta of ingredients: fruit,cream,andmeringue.

Agorgeouspavlovaisasubtleplayoftexture.Asthemoisturefromthecream soaks into themeringue, it adds a slight chewiness to its core andaccentuatesthecrispinessofitsshell.Ittookweekstocalibratethatperfectmeringueshell,attimeshollowingoutthecenterforanevenmoredelicateproduct.Everydayofthatsummer,Ihandmadeandassembledhundredsofpavlovas, and every time a powdery shell scraped against the surface of

another,shiversrandownmyspine.Theprocessbatteredandbruisedmysenses—and funny enough, it never got better. I hate working withmeringuetothisday.Butagoodfightisneveraneasyone.

ThepavlovabecameanitemthatIwouldregularlykeeponmymenu.The name of my very first pavlova was the Black and Blue. Casualobserversassumeitsmonikerisderivedfromtheblackberriesencasedinsidetheblueberrymeringue.But intruth,Iwas inspiredbythebeatingthatItooktofinishit.Inameditafterthestruggle:takingpunches,andstandingbackup.

INSPIREDBYAPEEP

There’sagameI’vebeenplayingforyears:I’llnameaspecificholidayandasksomeonetosaythefirst ingredientthatcomestomind.It’s incrediblehow there’s almost a Pavlovian link between special occasions and food.Before long, people begin to describe entire menus. Christmas is almostalways cinnamon, a warm spice that morphs into imaginary gingerbread,cookies, and pies. New Year’s? I can bet you it’s Champagne, perhapsinfused into macerated ripe strawberries. And Easter, for as long as Iremembered,waschocolate.

Growing up in France, I remember the shelves of local chocolatiersstackedwith chocolate eggs every Easter. It is amemory that I thoughtevery kid shared. But when I asked Americans to describe their Eastermemories, rather than chocolate eggs, they talked instead aboutmarshmallows. Hearing an unexpected answer so many times made merealizethatmaybeIwastheoutlier,noteveryoneelse.

IsoondiscoveredsomeAmericansareloyaltotraditionalchocolateeggs,butanequallystrongcontingentwillchoosemarshmallowchicks.Decidingbetweenthetwoisasfutileastheage-oldquestionofthechickenortheegg.Neitherofthemcanwinovertheother.

Could I create a marshmallow chick similar to the multiple ones outthere in the market? Of course. Making a new pastry with a differentmedium isn’t technically difficult, and I enjoyed working withmarshmallow.Buttodivergefromthedeepandpowerfulmemoriesofmychildhood,andtodoitwithabitofwitandcleverness—that’sliketryingtomakeajokeinaforeignlanguage.

More than six years passed between the first time I tried a Peep, thebest-known brand ofmarshmallow chicks, and the first time I attemptedmyownversion.Iusedcleanedeggshellswiththeirtopspreciselysevered.Adoubledollopofmarshmallowonthetoptransformedtheeggshellsintothehomesof small chicks.Theyweredusted in the same familiaryellowsugar andbrought to lifewith tinyblack chocolatedots as eyes, throughwhichtheypeeredoutinnocently.Inthiscreation,Icombinedtheeggandmarshmallow—it was my way of keeping a little bit of the Easter Icelebratedinmychildhood.

DidIreallyneedthatlengthoftimetodosomethingwithmarshmallowchicks for Easter? No. But there’s sincerity in adopting a tradition first,ratherthanforcingasolution.Ihadreceivedsomanymarshmallowchicksas presents from my American staff that by the time the holiday rolledaround,Ihadgottenusedtoexpectingthem.

There’s never a rush to create. Take some time to truly immerseyourself, and thegenuine thoughts thatcomeout—as simpleas theymaybe—willshinethrough.

“SOMEAMERICANSARELOYALTOTRADITIONALCHOCOLATEEGGS,BUTANEQUALLYSTRONGCONTINGENTWILLCHOOSEMARSHMALLOWCHICKS.DECIDINGBETWEENTHETWOISASFUTILEASTHEAGE-OLDQUESTIONOFTHECHICKENORTHEEGG.”

CRACKINGTHECHOCOLATEEGG

“It’stoobeautifultoeat,”saidthecustomer,intendingitasacompliment.Ididn’tknowquitehowtotakeit.Butsomethinginmygutfeltthethudofdisappointment.

I had made hundreds of chocolate Easter eggs that year. Each was alaboredprocess.Ittookthreehourstocraftnotjustonebutthreeeggsofincreasing size, which were nestled together like a set of Russianmatryoshkadolls.Theoutermostlayerwasadarkchocolateshell,dustedingold, with strategically punctured holes that allowed you to peer inside.Thereyouwouldfindawhitechocolateshellshiningoutinsharpcontrast.Andwithin that, amilk chocolate egg that held three types of chocolatetruffles.

The truffles were Champagne-, orange-, and pistachio-flavored. Butmost of the customers never got around to tasting any of them. Instead,their chocolate eggs sat around through the summer months until they

became dull and too old to eat andwere tossed out like a still-wrappedpresent.Being“toobeautiful”wasacurse thatprevented thesechocolateEaster eggs from fulfilling their destiny—to be sloppily and uninhibitedlyconsumedwithdelight.

Thiswasn’taproblemIhadencounteredbefore,backhomeinFrance.LavishgildedEastereggswerestandardthere,andcustomersdidn’thesitatetounwrapthemandbreaktheirshells.ButsuchFabergé-inspiredcreationsdidn’thavethesameeffectinNewYork.Here,beautywasadeterrenttodestruction.Andtheactofeatingrequiresthatsomethingbebrokentobedevoured.It’striumphantandmessy,andyouwipeyourmouthattheendofit.

HowwouldIcreatesomething“ugly”enoughtobeeaten?Clearly,Ididn’twanttocompromiseonthequalityofpresentation.As

themonthspassedandseasonschanged,IwonderedwhatIwoulddesignnextEaster.Oneday,Ideliveredacaketoachild’sbirthdayparty,whereapiñatahungintheclearedcenterofarestaurant’sprivateroom.Theyoungguestslaughedmischievouslyastheyswungthebat.Alightbulbwenton.ThiswasthetypeofreactionIwantedtoharness.Notthesubtleeyebrowraisesandthewhisperedcommentsofanartmuseum.

WhenEasterrolledaround,Iwasready.Iunveiledanall-redeggwithmenacingeyebrowsandasharpbeak.Itwasinspiredbythepopularvideogame Angry Birds, where the only objective is to launch birds with aslingshot and destroy structures. This chocolate egg was daring you tobreakit.Anditcapturedthejoyofdestruction.

Inside I generously stuffedbonbons, caramels, andmarshmallows.Thiswasthereward,theconquest,thelevel-up.Everysinglechocolateeggwasbrokenthatyear,justasallgreatculinarycreationsshouldbe.

SAVINGCEREALFORCHRISTMAS

There’s a problem that pastry chefs throughout history have struggled tosolve. How can delicate desserts be transported across great distances,especiallywhenmostofthemcanbarelysurviveaNewYorkCitysubwayride?

Acrosstheglobe,chefshavetriedtomanagethesituationwithvariousmaneuvers.IwasoncedeniedtherighttobuyacakeinTokyobecauseIconfessed I was staying at a hotel that was located more than fifteenminutesaway.Someshopspackage theirgoodswithpagesof instructionsthatwillprobablybe tossed in the trashalongwith thebag.Othershaveemployees repeat long speeches on the best storage recommendations astheystufficepacksintothebox.Nothingworksperfectly.

At a restaurant, the chef determines how each dish arrives, and eachplateisclearedbeforethenextoneisserved.Butinashop,youhandoveryour creations andwhat happens next is beyond your control.You can’tforcepeopletostayinoneplace.Damageisinevitable.

Theonlysolution,Irealized,wouldbetostopthinkingaboutthisasaproblem and embrace it as an opportunity. Iwanted to create somethingthat actually does travelwell.Andwhat timedopeople travel themost?Christmas. In this seasonofgiftingand family reunions,nobodywants togobackhomeempty-handed.

But packaged products often don’t have the same alluring appeal as afreshdessert.PerhapsyourememberatimewhenyoureceivedaChristmasgoodiebagandunexcitedlynibbledfromituntilspring.Iwantedanitemthatwould survive the trip and be ready to sharewith everyone once itlanded. How can you get someone to rip open the package and eatimmediately?

Ididn’trealizethatIwaslookingattheanswereverymorning.Inthosesleepyearlyhours,theoneitemIalwaysreachoutfor,almostbyreflex,isthecerealbox.Cerealisapartofeverydaylife:you’renotsavingitforaspecialoccasion;youwantitforitsconvenienceandsatisfactionregularly.

I went to work and coated puffed rice cereal in caramelized milkchocolateandtosseditwithsmoked-cinnamonmeringuesandcaramelizedhazelnuts. It’s what I would’ve liked waking up to early on Christmasmorningasachild,thenspendingtherestofthedayinpajamasopeninguppresents.

ChristmasMorningCerealwasanexperimentthatquicklygrewtooneofourmostpopularholiday specialties.Hundredsofboxeswentout thatyear,hand-carriedbylovedonestoplacesasdistantasAsiaandAustralia.AndmyhopeisthatonChristmasmorningitmadeeveryone’sbreakfastalittlesweeter.

3

DON’TLISTEN

MyparentstellmethatthefirstwordIeversaidwas“yes.”Ofcourse,Imayhavebeentryingtosaysomethingelse,sinceIwassputteringall sortsofunformednoisesat thetime.ButI liketothinkitistrue,andIoftenwonderwhatitwasthatinspiredmetobreakmysilence.

I livebytherule that ifyoudon’thaveanythingworthwhiletosay,youshouldn’tspeakatall.ButperhapsoneofthequietesttimesofmylifetookplacewhenIfirststartedmyownbakery.

It took just sevenof themostbackbreaking, sweat-drenching,andutterlyfrustratingweeks fromthetimeI leftmyprevious jobatDanieluntil theopeningday.Duringthatentireperiod,despitethefactthatIwastryingtobuild my vision, I was silent. Something within me withdrew into thesolitudeofmyinfantdays.

Asitturnedout,itwasaloteasiertonotspeakthanitwastonotlisten.Everyoneelsehadsomethingtosayaboutmynextstep.

“You should focus on selling sandwiches,” one person suggested.“People don’t buy pastries these days. They’ll buy sandwiches duringlunchtime.That’swhereyoumakethemoney.”

“Youshouldmakecupcakes,”anotherrecommended.“It’sNewYork!Peoplelovecupcakes.”

“Lowertheprices,”saidone.“Increasetheprices,”suggestedanother.ThereI foundmyself,at thebeginningofthenextstageofmycareer,

and I could barely hearmyown thoughts above the chatter of everyone

else’s.Iunderstoodthattheiradvicewaswellintentioned,butIknewIhadtodecidethewayforwardformyself.Ineededtolearnhowtonotlisten.

Theworldspeaksonlytowhathasalreadyhappened:talesofthosewhohavealreadysucceeded,thosewhohavealreadyfailed.Adviceisbasedonhistory rather than possibility. And onlywhen you stop listening do youstop imitating and start creating. In this chapter, I’ll take you throughdecisions Imade that at firstmay seem counterintuitive, like launching apastrycalledtheDKA,whicheveryonetoldmewouldnevercatchon.I’lldescriberule-breakingstuntsliketheMagicSoufflé,andI’llsharethestorybehind the infamous Cronut™ pastry. I’ll end with a caveat: it’s alsoimportanttorememberthatsomethingsrequirenochangeatall,asisthecasewithvanillaicecream.

Take amomentwithme and try to not listen.Digwithin yourself tofind the things you deeply care about and believe in.Andwhen you hituponwhatinspiresyoumost,thedoubtwilldissipate.Therightpathwillbeclear.Andyouwillbreakyoursilencewitharesounding“yes.”

TRUSTTHEDKA

A week before opening the bakery, I told the crew I wanted to makekouign amann. Everyone’s response was the same: “You want to makewhat?”

TheCelticnamelookedstrangeonpaperandwasevenhardertosoundoutcorrectly(it’spronouncedKWEENah-MAHN).Needlesstosay,fromamarketingperspectivetheteamthoughtitwouldbeadisastertohighlightalittle-known,unpronounceablepastryonourmenu.

Bestdescribedasa“caramelizedcroissant,”thekouignamannfeaturesadazzlingsugarycrustandtendercroissant-likelayerswithin.Butter,dough,and sugar must be perfectly laminated, or layered together—with nointermittent time to chill and rest—to achieve its distinctive crispy, flaky,andmoisttexture.

Within minutes of folding the dough with the butter, the laminatedcombination adds further challenges as it starts to melt; sprinkling inhandfuls of sugar draws out the moisture from the dough. This processleavesmanycookswithasoggymessofindistinguishablelayers.Itishardtotrainsomeonetopayattentiontotheminusculechangesofthedoughasit endures fold after fold.Containing just a few ingredients—flour, yeast,

butter, sugar, andwater—the kouign amannoffers the same challenge asthatofanomelet:easytomake,butdifficulttomakewell.

Overtime,Imodifiedmyrecipetodecreasethebutterandsugar,whichresultedinalightertexture.Removingfatorsugarfromanyreciperesultsinapastrythatismoreperishable,andthistweakdecreasedtheshelflifeofthe kouign amann to just twelve hours. Yet another obstacle from thebusinessman’sperspective.

What’smore,my recipe required thatwe prepare a fresh batch everymorning.Withoutanyfrozeninventoryasasafetynet,anymistakecouldruinthebatchandleavethebakerywithnonetosellfortheday.

SowhichshouldIhavelistenedto—myheadormygut?Itwasoneofthosedefiningcrossroads,andIknewIwouldregretnotgivingaproductIbelieved inachance towin thesupportof theworld. It iseasy torideatrend;it’smuchhardertomoveintheoppositedirection.That’swhatwedidwhenweputtheDKAonourmenu.Everyonceinawhile,youmusttakealeapoffaith.

Adaybeforewewelcomedourfirstcustomer,Iarrangedatastetestforthe staff in the empty bakery. The next day,whenwe pulled down thepaperfromthewindowsandopenedourdoors,Icouldstillhearmurmursfrombehind the register.Theywere reminiscing about their first taste of“that caramelized croissant thing.” It became the one pastry that peoplesaidwas“lifechanging.”

Every single kouign amann sold out by noon. Curiosity drove manygueststotheirfirstbite,butitwastastethatultimatelykeptthemcomingback. Eventually, it became known as theDKA forDominique’sKouignAmann, a name coined by our regulars for my lightly modified version.The DKA has sold out every day since, and we have quintupledproduction.

Afewdaysagoamotherandsoncametothestore.WhenIaskedwhattheirfavoriteitemwas,themotherquicklyreplied,“TheDKA!”Andthat’swhen her three-year-old son looked up at me and said, “Dominique’sKouignAmann”clearlyandwithperfectpronunciation.

“ITISEASYTORIDEATREND;IT’SMUCHHARDERTOMOVEINTHEOPPOSITEDIRECTION.THAT’SWHATWEDIDWHENWEPUTTHEDKAONOURMENU.”

BREAKINGTHESOUFFLÉLAWS

Whenexecutedperfectly,thechocolatesouffléiseasytofallinlovewith.Thespooncracksthethinlysettledtopanddescendsdownintothecloud-likechocolatelayer,itstipdippingintothemoltenchocolatebeneath.

Butwhatadivaitis!Aslammedovendoor,agustintheair,andevenawhisper could cause its collapse. No other item in a cook’s repertoireinspiresasmuchdread.Andperhapsthatiswhyitistheonlydessertthatassertsitselfbeforetherestofyourmealhasevenbegun.Orderwhatyouwill for the main course, but decide up front whether you want to begracedwith thepresenceof the soufflé.Remember the timewheneverywaiterstartedoffthemealcautioningyou,“Ifyouwouldliketoorderthesoufflé,youwouldneedtoplacetheordernow.”

Ineverputa souffléonmymenuwhenIworkedata restaurant.Butthatdidn’tstopregularrequestsforthem,whichIalwaysaccommodated,ifgrudgingly. I left my restaurant days behind relishing the fact that Iwouldn’t have to do another rush order for a chocolate soufflé in themiddleofthenightforaVIP.

Iwas recountingmy soufflévexationswhen Iwas interrupted.“Whatwasitaboutthesouffléthatyouhatedsomuch?”someoneasked.Ididn’thate the soufflé, I explained. But I felt restrained by its rigidity. There’sonlysomuchyoucandotoalterasoufflé.Itwasalwaysthesamewhiteramekin and regular cadre of ingredients: chocolate, raspberries, and soforth. I found it old-fashioned and stuffy. It simplywasn’t an innovativedessert.“Well,I’msureyoucouldmakeitinnovative,”cametheresponse.Andthechallengewasaccepted.

TheverynextdayIsetouttocreatea“reimagined”soufflé.Onethatwouldnevercollapseandstillhadthebasiccharacteristics:anaeratedcrustwith an airy and semi-liquid core. I decided to free the soufflé from theconfinesof its ramekinandmake itportablebyencasing it inanorange-blossombrioche.Itwouldbeonefortherulebreakers,therevolutionaries.

This task kept me up nights. Breaking rules, as it turns out, takes awholelotofwork.Istudiedthetechnicalitiesofstabilizingeggwhitesandcontrollingtemperatures,tweakingeachstepintheexecutionprocess.Thefinalproductisnotsomethingthatyoucanwhiptogetherinaninstant.Itis

laboriousandtime-consuming.AndI’msuremanycookswouldpreferthestraightforwardnessofaclassicsouffléreciperatherthanthesidestepsinmynewversion.

Butshowmeamagicianwhodidn’tcarefullyplaneachsleightofhandormeticulouslycalculatetheperfectlyplacedsmokeandmirrorssothatthetricklooksaseffortlessaswhensomeoneripsapartthebriocheshelltofindachocolatecore.Innovationmayseemlikemagic,buttherealtriumphistheworkbehindthescenes.

THEREALCRONUT™LESSON

Peoplehavea lot tosayabouttheCronut™pastry.Buttheyalwaysstartoff with the same question: “How did you do it?” And this is quicklyfollowedby:“HowcanIdoit,too?”

Formonths, I explained to journalist after journalist that therewasnomagicformulaormarketingstrategybehindthiscroissant-doughnuthybrid.Itwassimplyanothercreation.Iwasmakingasnackfortheteamwhosaidtheywantedtoeatdoughnuts.Havingnorecipeforadoughnut,Idecidedtomakemyown.Glazedonthetop,thepastrywasfilledwithcreamandsugaredlikeadoughnut,butithadalaminateddoughthatwassimilarto—butnot the sameas—croissantdough.Crispyon theoutside,with tenderlayerswithin,itwasaplayfultreat.Twomonthsandtenrecipeslater,theCronut pastrywas born.Nobody could’ve imaginedwhatwould happennext.

Picasso sketched and painted hiswhole life, yet only a fraction of hisactualbodyofworkbecamerecognizable.Mozartcomposedsincehewasachild, but many of us can hum only a few notes from his symphonies.What’smore,theybothstartedoffnotknowinghowtopaintorplaymusicatall.Andittookeverybadsketchandamateurcompositiontomoldthemintosomeonetheworldapplauded.Creativityisaboutlivingthrougheverycreation,eventhelacklusterones.Thebestcreationshavemakerswhoarefully immersed in livingacreative life.Theyareallastepforward.Ihadalwaysbelievedinthat,butinventingtheCronutpastrytaughtmehowtonotfalltwostepsback.

OneMaymorningin2013,justthreedaysafterwelaunchedtheCronutpastry,more than a hundred peoplewerewaiting outside the door. Theline started threehoursbeforeour8:00 a.m.opening time, andwewerejustfourpeopleinside:twobaristasinfrontandtwocooksinthekitchen.

“We’regoingtodogreat,”Iassuredoneofthegirlsworkingbehindtheregister,tryingtoswallowthepanicbubblinginsideme.Shehadstartedtotremble at the thought of the crowd bursting through the doors of oursmallshopinthenextfewminutes.

Withinthecocoonofthebakerywalls,wehadonlyheardmurmursofhowourhumbledesserthad“goneviral”and“wastrending.”Eachstorywaswilder than the next, from a personwho sold a secondhandCronutpastry for $100 on the blackmarket, to customers offering bribes to ouremployees,tothesadmomentswhenwecaughtpeoplegoingthroughourtrashforwhateverrejectedportionsofthepastrywehadtossedoutearlierthatmorning.Wewere toocaughtup in trying todowhatwecould toeithergaspindisbelieforrejoiceinthesuccess.Allwecouldfocusonwasgettingthroughthetornadoofdailyevents.

Thencameeverybody’stwocents.Economistsspokeofsupplymeetingdemandandurgedmetoraisemyprices.Entrepreneursgavemelessonsonscaling.Andthereweremanywholoveddanglingthecarrotofsellingout.Therewas only one piece of advice I took, and itwas simple: “Imaginewhatyouwouldhavedone if theCronutpastryneverexisted.Goaheadanddothat.”

Nomatter how steep the climb ahead, the trip is alwaysmade easierwhenyouknowwhereyou’regoing.AndIhadseenmydestinationinoneword:creativity.Wemovedon.Wedidtheonethingnobodythoughtwewoulddo—wetriedtoignoretheCronutpastry.

We handledmatters aswe did any other day. Priceswere not raised.Large corporations didn’t consume us. And growth, although a naturalprogression in any business, was dealt with mindfully and without rush.Togetherasateam,wenolongerfearedtheline.Weembracedthosewhowaitedpatiently,withhotchocolate andhandwarmersduring thewintermonths and fresh-bakedmadeleines in the summer.Theywere serenadedbycarolersduringtheChristmasseasonandgiftedlong-stemmedrosesonValentine’s Day. We capped our production—not in an effort to makethings “exclusive” but rather as a way to preserve the quality of theproduct.Atonepointwehadnotonlymovedon,butmovedbeyond.Wesaw that theCronut pastry had become a symbol of creativity that drewcrowdsfromaroundtheworld,whichinturninspiredmetokeepworkingtowardmydestinationandmoveontothenextcreation.

Fewthingsaredefinedby themoment theywereborn,but rather thestorytheylivedthrough.TherealsecretslienotintherecipeoftheCronutpastry,butintheinfinitythatliesaheadofit.

“PEOPLEHAVEALOTTOSAYABOUTTHECRONUT™PASTRY.BUTTHEYALWAYSSTARTOFFWITHTHESAMEQUESTION:‘HOWDIDYOUDOIT?’ ”

ETERNALLYVANILLA

Peopleaskmeallthetimewhatmyfavoriteicecreamflavoris.AndwhenI enthusiastically reply “Vanilla!” there’s always disappointment in theireyes.TheyseemsurprisedthatI’mnotdrawnbythevibranthuesofberry-speckled sorbets,norby thedecadentgleamofchocolateor theallureofseasaltoncaramel.Thereisnomorecompetitivebattlegroundforflavorsthaninanicecreamcase.

“Youlikevanilla?”Theyrepeatthequestion,asifgivingmeachancetochangemymind.

Sometimes I suffer a momentary doubt. Should I have said hazelnut orcoffee?ButthenIremindmyself:Ilikevanilla,andI’mnotashamedofit.

Welive inaworldwheretwistsandturnsareapplauded.I’vehadmyshareofbacon-,avocado-,andcheese-flavoredicecreams—mostofwhichI could dowithout. And a whole year once passed when I didn’t eat ascoopofvanillaicecream.WhenIfinallydid,mytastebuds,wipedcleanof theirmemoryof vanilla, experienced somethingnew. I felt like Iwasdrinkingfreshwaterafteralifetimeofwine.Everynoterangoutclearly.

What has ruined vanilla’s reputation isn’t that it is used sowidely, butthat it has been used so poorly. Oversweetened, extract-flavored, grainy

versions of vanilla ice cream are everywhere. And without a minimumstandard,itsidentityhascometostandfor“plain.”Whatasadfateforanexoticblackfruitharvestedfromanorchid.

Atrulywell-executedvanillaicecreamisaperfectharmonyofflavors:thebasedelicatelycooked,thequalityofthecreamandeggspristine,andthe vanilla pods the very best you can buy. Those floral beans lie overeverybitelikethesoftestlaceonsatin.Itisn’tPlainJane.ItisCocoChanelinaroomofoveraccessorizedwomen,thebeautyofCinderellaagainsthergaudystepsisters.

Real innovation is not about chasing the fashionable, but having aninherent beauty. It is not about a sampling of cleverness, but honestconsiderationforwhatworkswell.That’svanillaicecream.Ifyouhaven’thaditforawhile,takeabiteofatrulydeliciousscoop.It’stheoneflavorthatprovesitselftobenotjustapassingfancy,butaneternalromance.

4

WHAT’SINANAME?

Close to a thousand customers walk through the doors of thebakerydaily.Ismileornodastheywalkpast;ourintroductionsareoftenbrief.ThecallofthekitchenallowsforlesstimethanIwould’ve liked to meet everyone. But there’s one encounter Iwillalwaysremember.

Onesummerafternoon,acoupleapproachedme.Theypointedtowardasmallphotoonthewallofabasketofmadeleines.Theysmiledastheytoldtheir story: in a fewweeks theywouldwelcome their newborndaughterandtheywouldnameherMadeleine.Theselittlecakebiteshadbeenthemother’sfavoriteduringherpregnancy,andtheywerehopingforacopyofthephototohanginthenursery.“Ifyoucouldwriteanote,Chef,”theyaddedwithappreciation.

ThatnightIthoughtaboutwhattowritetobabyMadeleine.Thislittlegirl named after a pastry that was once named after another girl by thename of Madeleine Paulmier, a cook in the eighteenth century. Howdifferentyetdistinctively“madeleine”theyeachare.

Theoldadagesays,“Apictureisworthathousandwords.”TowhichIalways respond: It depends on theword.Names are no ordinarywords.Namesprecedeus,oftentimes longbeforeweareevenborn,andsurviveafter we have died. Few people know that my real name is actuallyDominiqueAnselJr.Iwasnamedaftermyfather,butIneverthoughtofitassomethingto liveupto.Wecouldnotbemoredifferent.Forme,thenamewasablessing.Itremindedmeofthelovehehadforme.

Over theyears, there aremany“nameless” creations Ihaveplacedonmymenu.Imerelydescribedwhattheywere—afruittart,apieceofcake.Butinthischapter,Iwillhighlightcreationsthatwerebroughttolifewith

aname.Sometimesanameleadstoaspecificsetofexpectations,likethePerfect Little Egg Sandwich. Other times a name can unlock a deeperhistory, as it was for the religieuse. Names can also be transporting,especiallywhentheydrawinspirationfromplaces,likemyinterpretationoftheParis-Brest.AndIexplainhowaquickabbreviation,whichresultedintheMiniMe,cangiveapastrynewpurposeinthekitchen.

WhenIhandedoverthephotoofthemadeleinestothecouplethenextday, I hadwritten amessage that onlyMadeleine andher parentswouldknowfortheyearstocome.Themostimportantwordswerethefirsttwo.“To Madeleine,” it began. And that was worth more than a thousandwordsalready.

PERFECTINGALITTLEEGGSANDWICH

“ThePerfectLittleEggSandwich,”IscribbledonaPost-itnote.Itwas the first thing that our first customer orderedwhen the bakery

opened.Iwelcomedhimintothebrand-newshopandcarefullyassembleditmyself: a fluffy, two-inch-thick sliceofwarm scrambledeggs, seasonedwith caramelized shallots, chives, and a liberal sprinkling of sea salt andgroundblackpepper;apaper-thinsliceofGruyèrecheese,slightlymeltedunderthebroiler;allbetweenafreshlytoasted,butterybriochebun.Simple,Ithought.

Buttheword“perfect”changeseverything.Itisamonumentaltitleforahumblecreationtoliveupto.

“Is it really perfect?” the skeptics asked. “Whatmakes it perfect?” thetheoristswondered.

Afterawhile,evenIstartedtoquestionthewholeideaofperfection.Ithrewmyself back into the kitchen in an attempt tomake the sandwichmore perfect. What if I added bacon or pancetta? Maybe some sort of

spreadoverthebread?Aswinterrolledaround,Ievencreatedaversionofthesandwichwithfreshblacktruffles.

When our first customer—now a regular—returned for his dailybreakfastsandwich,Iwaseagertoshowhimthenewoption.“Wouldyouliketotrytheonewiththeblacktruffle?”ourstaffsuggested.

“No,”hesaid,“justtheperfectisfine.”Hesaiditinanonchalantway.Buthisanswerwasawake-upcall.

Perhapstheplatonicidealoftheperfectlittleeggsandwichdoesn’texist.Theideaofaflawlessstateisastaticone.Anditsuggeststhatnothingcanbe improvedupon. In that sense it feels abit limited; it’s theendof theroad.Beingperfectmaynotbetherealgoalintheend,butbecomingperfectis filled with the promise of always progressing. When I thought aboutperfectionasaquest, I letgoof thestressofexpectations. Instead, Iwasfilled with infinite inspiration. In my mind I placed the word “perfect”silently in frontof everynewcreation I attempted.Whenyouno longerfearperfection,yousetloftiergoalsandsurprisinglyaccomplishmorethanyou think youmight. Creations break, they stall, there’s always a betterversiontobemade.Butfewcreationsareevergreatunlesstheyfirstaspiretobeperfect.

DRESSUPWITHTHERELIGIEUSE

When I teachmy staffhow tomake the religieuse, I always tell them thestory behind the pastry. This two-tiered cream puff, dipped into darkchocolateglazeandpipedwithwhitebuttercream,earneditsnamebecauseitresemblestheblack-and-whiteheaddressofanun.

“Doyouseethewayitkindoflookslikeawoman’sheadandbody?”Isay.

“Yes,”theyrespond.“Andit’sdressedlikeanun.”Thatisalwaysfollowedbyachuckle.I never understood why they laugh. The explanation seemed second

nature to me, since this classic pastry can be found in just about everybakeryinFrance.Ihadgrownuplovingthisdouble-deckerdelight,staringatitinthecasesoftheDalloyaupastryshops.Filledwithdifferentflavorsofpastrycream,italwaysseemedadecadentalternativetotheéclair.ButinNewYork, few had heard of this treat. Andwe never sold asmanyreligieusesasIhoped.

ThenIfinallygotthejoke.Howsadwasitthatthereligieusehadbeendressedupasanunforalltheseyears!Itseemedprimandunapproachablewhen desserts were supposed to be just the opposite—sensual andseductive.

ItwasNewYorkFashionWeekatthetime,andsoIdecidedtodressup the religieuse after years of its fashion conservatism.Ruffles and palewhiteflowersonone,ascarletglazeandpipedlacedécoronanother,andablack-and-whitedandyapproachonathird.

Namescanbeconstricting.Andsometimeswehavetoputthosenamesasideandappreciatewhatliesbeneath.OnceIsawthereligieuseasabodyform to dress, anything was possible. We did Valentine’s Day angel

religieuses and Santa religieuses. They were topped in berets for BastilleDay and witch hats for Halloween. Customers forgot about the name“religieuse” and identifiedwithwhat they saw in front of them.Withinweeksof thisbreakthrough,wecateredour firstweddingwith religieusesdressedasbridesandgrooms.Everyoneof its incarnationsbecamea topselleratthebakery.Itisatraditionwecontinuetothisday.

We’renotalwaysgiventhehonorofnamingacreation.Classicscomewith their own title, personality, and history. Understanding a creationmeans embracing its past, but also letting it become a foundation for amore relevant present. It is something that doesn’t need to be shed, butonceinawhile,thingscanberedressed.

ANEWYORKPASTRY

“Where are you from?” asked the cabdriver as we crossed theQueensborough Bridge toward Manhattan. It was a straightforwardquestion to which I always answered: France. But that day, the answerchanged.“I’mfromNewYork,”Isaid.

Wealwaysrememberthefirsttimewemeetthepeoplewhowill laterchangeour lives.We lookback at the formal introductions, the shyness,andtheserendipitythatbroughtusalltogether.IremembermeetingNewYorkforthefirsttime,anditwastheclosestI’veeverexperiencedtoloveatfirstsight.

NeverhadIseenacitythatwassoalive.Theconstantflowofpeopleand cars pulsates through the streets with each pounding heartbeat. Theskyscrapers stretchupwardwith thedreamsof thecity.Andeverycornercan be reborn in the blink of an eye to showcase a new shop, newrestaurant, and new idea. New York is the mother of reinvention, theconsummatemuse; she’s everyone’s paramour, and as one ofmy biggestinspirations,Iwantedtocaptureherinadessert.

ButwhatdoesNewYork“taste” like? I started to list the flavors thatremindedme of this city.The burnt caramel scent of street-side vendorsroastingnutsinthewinterasyouexitthesubwaystations.Thataromaofhazelnutcoffeedrifting fromeverycornerdeli.Thebrininessofhotdogsmixingwiththetingeofsauerkraut.Agarlickystir-fryhittingthesizzlingwoks inChinatown. The sweet, yeasty air of bagel shops. The bubblingmozzarella fresh out of pizza ovens. Every thought took me down adifferentstreet.Tryingtopinpointatasteforoneofthemosteclecticcitiesintheworldwasanimpossibletask.It’sasifyouweretryingtoexplainallthe reasons you love someone. You would produce an endless list thatneverquiteexpressesthevastnessofyourfeelings.

SoIwentbacktothatveryfirsttimeImetNewYork.TheplanerideherehadbeenlongandsleeplessasIsatawakeinanxiousthought.Itwasthe calm before the storm of being ushered through immigration andbaggageclaimandfinallypushedoutdoors,whereIremembersquintingattheblue skiesandbreathing in thecoldair.Beforehopping intoacab, Ibought a Snickers bar. I took bite after bite of the caramel, peanut, and

chocolatetreataswedrovetowardtheskylinemadesoclearlyrecognizablebytheEmpireStateBuilding.

The dessert I dedicated to New York is called the Paris–New York.Inspiredby that simple chocolatebar thatbecamemy first “meal” in thecity, I built it by piping concentric rings of soft caramel,milk chocolate,and peanut butter ganache. It is a take on the Paris-Brest, traditionally aringofchouxpastrydoughfilledwithhazelnutcream.TheParis-Brestwasnamedafterabicycleracethatrunsbetweenthetwocities:ParistoBrest,thenbacktoParis.WhatbetterwaytocapturemyjourneythancreatingaParis–NewYork?

Icouldneverdistilltheever-changingNewYorkdowntoafewflavors.And so many objects of inspiration are not captured completely in thecreationsthataretributestothem.Mytrickistoalwayszoomin:thatlittlebitofglitterisallyouneed.Evenifyoumanagetoexpressjustthetipofwhatsomethingmeanstoyou,it’sworthashot.

ME,MINIME,ANDMERINGUES

Iwasn’t planning on talking aboutworkwhen Imet upwithmy friendAun,whowasvisitingfromSingapore,forlunch.Butsomewherebetweenourappetizerandmaincourse,ItoldhimthatIwasinterestedinmakingalineofminiaturemeringuespipedintinyteardropsasatakeawaygiftitem.Iwanted them tobe cute andplayful.Theonlyproblemwas“miniaturemeringues”—thename—wasneither.

“Meringuettes,” “meringue kisses,” “petites meringues”—I listed therejectsforhimtohear.

“WhataboutMiniMe?”hesuggested,alludingtothefamouscharacterin Austin Powers. The problem of naming these meringues was instantlysolved.Webothknewthiswouldbeitsname.Aunhadmanagedtothinkof something in thirty seconds that I had struggled for three months tofigureout.Ifonlyeverypartofthecreativeprocesscouldbeaseasyasthis.

Whatdoyou imaginewhenyoupicturean innovator?Amadscientistsecretlymixingpotionsinhislab?Anauthorcrinklinguppageafterpageof

writtentextinastruggletofindtherightwords?Aprogrammerhunchedoverherscreenwithherfingerspoundingoutcode?

Mostofthetime,wetendtothinkofcreativityasasoloenterprise.Wearetaughtthatitrequiressilence,privacy,andtimetoincubate.Anideaisfragile—the slightest snicker might dissuade its owner from transformingthought intoaction.Yet sometimes,whenweopenup to the restof theworld, we are able to break our own boundaries. Inspiration doesn’thappeninalockedroom.Inmycase,ithappenedinabustlingrestaurantwitharoundofdrinksonthetable.

Aun was back in Singapore long before the Mini Me’s launched. Henevergottotastethemorseethemsittingonthebakery’sshelves.Buthehadproventomethatcreativitycanbeasocialaffair.Thekeyisinfindingtherightconfidantwhoseopinionsandtasteyourespectandrealizingthatopeningyourselfuptootherscanbringanewperspectivetoachallenge.Twocanoftenbebetterthanone.

What was so brilliant about Aun’s suggestion wasn’t just the humorbehind it,but the fact that thenamealso suggesteda function. I realizedthattheMiniMe’sshouldn’tbeinnameonly.Imadethemthemignonsforotherdesserts. Iwouldadd themtocakes, sprinkle themover icecream,drop them into hot chocolate. They were no longer a stand-aloneconfection, but a companion to so many others. It was an item thatelevatedthosearoundit,thewaythatsometimespeoplearoundyoucandothesameforyou.

“IREALIZEDTHATTHEMINIME’SSHOULDN’TBEINNAMEONLY.IMADETHEMTHEMIGNONSFOROTHERDESSERTS.THEYWERENOLONGERASTAND-ALONECONFECTION,BUTACOMPANIONTOSOMANYOTHERS.”

5

CREATEANDRE-CREATE

It’samake-or-breakmomentforanypastrychef:thefewsecondsafteryoufinishyourshowpieceandbeginthestuntofmovingitto the display table. A showpiece, made out of chocolate orsugar,doesjustwhatitsnamesuggests—itshowsoff.Paper-thinsugar ribbons, delicate chocolate spires, it’s a demonstration ofskillandprowess.Thegoalistodefygravity.Theslightestbumpcan unleash an avalanche of falling pieces and result in thedeepestofheartbreak.

Three cooks helped me carry my showpiece. With carefullychoreographed steps,we all held our breath until themomentwhen thefinal fingertip pulled away frombeneath the structure. I had assembled alargechocolatewavethatwovearoundandbackontoitself.Itdoubledasadisplaypieceanda stand formydesserts.The structure requiredclose to220pounds(100kilograms)ofchocolatetocreate.Ittookthreeweekstoperfect.

A fewhoursafter itsdebut,however, Ibashedmychocolate sculpturewith a hammer like a wrecking ball through a wall. Those around megaspedasIknockedthepiecesuntilsplinteredbitsofchocolatecoveredthetable.

“Howcanyoustandtobreakdownsomethingyouworkedsohardtobuild?” one observer asked.Towhich I explained that Iwasn’t breakingdown, Iwas getting ready tobuildbackup.Thiswas theprocess of re-creation.

Chocolate,whichcanbemeltedandre-sculptedendlessly,isoneofmyfavoriteingredients.Ilovetowatchthesculptedshapesmeltintoasmoothand glossy pool, once again becoming a tabula rasa. Certain mediumsconstantly welcome reinvention. After each appearance, they can bereincarnated.Theyformanewanddifferentwonder.

Thischapterisaboutbreakingdowntheclassicsandbuildingthembackup.Certainpastrieshavelong-forgottenhistories,andwhenyourediscovertheir secrets,you find inspiration fornewpointsofview,aswas thecasewith my Cotton-Soft Cheesecake. I’ll tell you about how something asstoriedasacroissantcanbetransformedinwhatseemslikeamagictrick.Sometimes,I’minspiredbythingsIdon’tparticularlylike,andI’llexplainhowwhenIdescribemyappletartTatin.Finally,I’llsharemystoryabouthow a bite-size chouquette, a small, unfilled cream puff, earned a spot inpeople’sheartsthankstoanotherone-bitetreat.

We’reoftentoldthatweshouldn’ttrytofixwhat’snotbroken.I’mnottrying to “fix” anything. Instead, I see each and every creation and re-creation as unique. There is no end to the road. Think instead of theendless number of paths, and open your mind to what lies beyond thehorizon.

AfewmonthsafterIsmashedit,IrecastmychocolatewaveshowpieceasanEastereggthesizeofmytorso.WhenMayrolledaround,Ibrokeitdownandshapeditintochocolateflowerpetalsforacakedisplay.Someof

these re-creationswere big, otherswere small. Somewere sturdy, otherswere more delicate. The beauty, however, is in how they were allconnected.

THECHEESECAKE’SFORGOTTENHERITAGE

Whoinventedthefirstcheesecake?WouldyouhaveguessedtheGreeks?I was shocked to learn this bit of trivia. For me, it seemed like an

American classic. But it was the Romans who adopted the originalcheesecake from the Greeks and spread it throughout Europe as theirempire expanded. And when Europeans later landed on the shores of anewlydiscoveredAmerica,theybroughttherecipewiththem.Thisplain-looking dessert, consisting of a cheese-based filling in a pastry shell, hadbeenservedonthetableofOlympicathletes,emperors,andimmigrants.

Today, you can find cheesecake all over theworld. In every locationthere’sadifferenttwist.Chicago-stylecheesecakestendtousesourcream.The Germans prefer quark instead of cream cheese. And in Japan, thefilling is made with a touch of cornstarch so that it whips to a lightconsistency. But perhaps the best known of all is the New York–stylecheesecake: a dense cream cheese filling, slightly browned on top, and a

grahamcrackercrustonthebottom.It isthebold“original”standardforsomany.

“IfyouliveinNewYork,youhavetodoacheesecake,”Iwastold.Atonepoint,virtuallyeveryrestauranthadacheesecakeonitsmenu.Butmyquestwouldbetoapproachitfromadifferentangle.

Itwas the cheesecake’s forgotten heritage that becamemy inspiration.OurshopinSoHoiswithinwalkingdistanceofsomeofthemosteclecticneighborhoods in the city. Seeing freshly made ricotta draining incheeseclothafewblockseastinLittleItalysetoffthesparkthatwouldleadme todevelopa light ricottamousse filling formycheesecake.Tasting awarmalmondspongecakeonacoldwinterdayinChinatown,justtothesouth, gave me the vision of a moist almond cake base in lieu of theexpected graham cracker one. The final touch, a slightly torched sugarcrustoverthecheesecake,camefromadesserteveryFrenchmangrewupwith—thecrèmebrûlée.

MyCotton-SoftCheesecakenevergoesoffthebakery’smenu.Itisnotthe classicNewYork–style cheesecake. But then again,NewYork–stylecheesecakeisnothingliketheoriginalGreek-stylecheesecake,whichusedfreshcheesethatwaspoundedwithastone intoapaste.Apairofdenimjeanshaschangeditscutandwashthroughoutthedecadesbutmaintaineditsintegrity.Automobileshavebecomeslickerandmoremodernthantheiroriginalmodels.Evenconstitutions in countriesundergoamendments andmodifications.Classicsdon’tresistchange;theyarebuiltonit.

SWITCHINGOUTHAMFORJAMÓN

Thestreetperformerheldacoinuptomyeyelevelandwarnedmenottoblink.Withoutbreakingmystare,Iwatchedashetwistedhisfingersandtransformedonecoinintotwo.Myjawdropped.Iwasjustaboy.ItwasthefirsttimeIwitnessedmagic.

ThesedaysIseemagicineverycreation—whetherit’sapieceofmusic,a daring work of architecture, or a delicious new pastry. And there arealwaysthreepartstothismagictrick.Thefirstisasenseofwonder.

“Iwonder ifwecoulddothat?”Seamusaskedme.As thechefof theaward-winning Spanish restaurant Tertulia, located a few blocks away intheWestVillage, he had dropped by to visit the bakery.Hewanted toknow if we could re-create the classic ham and cheese croissant intosomethingwith a Spanish flair, using jamón ibérico, a curedham from theblack-footedIberianpig,andagedMahóncheese.

Ineverthoughtofmodifyingourhamandcheesecroissantbeforethatmoment.Whenyou’re inside akitchenworkingwith the samepantryofingredients,sometimesittakesanoutsidertoinspireasenseofwonder.

Thesecondpartof themagic trick isdelivering theresult.Towonderfreelywithoutputtinganideaintoactionisbuttodaydream.Allmiraclestakework.IttookmeawholemonthtofigureouthowIcouldmakethemostofthesenewingredients.Itmighthavebeeneasiertosimplyfoldthenewhamandcheeseintothecroissantdough.Thatisthewayitisalwaysdone.Butworkingwithsuchspecial(andpricey)productspushedmetodomore.Inordertomaximizetheflavorofthejamónibérico,whichisslicedmuchthinnerthantraditionalParisianjambon,Iincorporatedthelard,whichcarriesthatsignaturedeepnuttiness,intothebutterpackageforthedough.And I added in trimmings and flakes of the jamón so you could see itspeckled throughout the crumbof the viennoiserie.At every step, I testedandtweakedtopreservethecroissant’slight,flakytexture.Wesentatestbatchover toSeamus’skitchenandawaiteda response.Anemailhitourinboxafewhourslaterfilledwithexclamationmarks.

Andthat’swhenweprepareforthelastpartofthemagictrick:delight.Thefirsttimeastranger,completelyunawareoftheweightoftheworkittook,simplytakesabite.Iwaitforit,asI’msurethemagiciandidwhen

hefirstdazzledmeonthestreetcorner.It’samomentofjoythatplaysinfrontofmeinslowmotionwhenacustomer’slipspresstogetherinadeeppurrof“Mmm...”

Often right after my guests taste something, they want to know therecipe and story behind it. “Showmehow to do thismagic trick,” theysay.I’mhappytoshare,butalwayshesitateforamoment.Therevealisanilluminatingyetdishearteningprocess:onceyouexplain the stepsand thelabor, the fantasy dissipates. But I always find comfort in the fact thatperhaps this personmight use this knowledge to fascinate someone else.Wecanallpayitforwardwithmagic.

THEAPPLETARTOFMYEYE

WhenIwasayoungboy,myparentsbroughtmetothestreetcarnivalsinFrance,whereIspententireafternoonstryingmyhandateverycointossandshootinggamebeforejumpingontheFerriswheeltocatchthesunset.Butwhilemysiblingsscarfeddowntheirpommesd’amour,acandiedappletreatfoundateveryfair,withdelight,Ineverquitefeltthesame.

At first, the pomme d’amour was tempting. The scarlet caramel shellglistenedasifmadefromblownglass.Awholeapplepromisedadecadent—and generous—serving.But the illusionwas shatteredwhen I tookmyfirst bite. The tough skin of the apple wedged between my front teeth.SourjuicerandownmychinasIstruggledtokeeppiecesoftackycaramelfrom falling on—and staining—my clothes. I was embarrassed to comeclean tomy family about howmuch I didn’t like thiswell-loved treat. Ididn’twanttoseemunappreciative.Italwaysfeelsas ifyou’re living inadifferentworldwhenyoudon’tagreewithpopularopinion.

Years later,when Iwas inmy teens, I bitmy tongue aswellwhen awaiter suggested I order the apple tartTatin.At the time, the tartTatinwasthemostin-demandrestaurantdessert.Madewiththickapplesegmentsgently sautéed in a deep caramel and topped with a buttery puff pastrycrust,thewholethingwasthenflippedupsidedownanddisplayedwithabigvoilàatthetable.

Eyes widened as my dining companions prepared to dig into thesumptuous dish. But formy taste? It was a little too sweet. The apples,saturatedwithanintenseamountofcaramel,tastedlikecandyratherthanfruit,andtheir texturewasmushyfromaprolongedcookingtime.Yet itwassuchaniconicdishIfeltalmostguiltyfornotlikingit.

Opinions come inwaves andwith the support of themasses, but it’sokaytothinkdifferently.Trynottoletyourownthoughtsbedrownedoutbythevoicesofthecrowd.Understandingyourownhead,yourownheart—that is the first step to creating something you will stand behind. Ieventuallyconfessedmytruefeelingsaboutthesetwodesserts.ButItookitonestepfurther.Ipinpointedtheproblemsandexaminedtheflawswithaconstructiveeye.

Onedayinmykitchen,IdecidedthatIwouldmakeanappletartTatinmyway.Ratherthancuttingtheapples intosegmentsaswastraditionallydone, Ipeeledeachappledelicatelyandkept itwhole.Amemoryof thepommed’amourflashedinmymind.Irememberedhowthepossibilityofeating awhole applehadbeen so alluring.Andwhen I baked the entireapple in its own mold, I discovered that this eliminated the problem ofoversweetening the fruit with caramel. Even when baked through, theinner core would retain the juiciness and the firmness of a fresh apple.WhenIsteppedbackandtookavictoriousbiteofmytweakedversion,IrealizedthatIhadusedtwodessertsthatIdislikedasinspirationtocreateonethatIlove.Ifyoudon’tlikesomething,don’tavoidit—improveit.

ONEBITEOFCHOUQUETTE

There’sone itemyoucan find in everybakery inFrance,butnota singleFrenchbakeryinNewYork.Chouquettesaretinyballsofpâteàchoux,theegg-baseddoughthatmakesupthebaseoféclairsandcreampuffs.Theyareleftunfilledandspeckledwithpearlsugargranulesthatlooklikewhitepolkadotsfromadistance.

Bakers traditionallyused leftoverbatter fromotherchouxdough–basedpastries tomake basketfuls of chouquettes.Andwhile buying breads andviennoiseries in France, I’d always add on an order of chouquettes as asnack.Soldbyweight in someplaces and inbatchesof tenor twenty inothers, the shopkeeper shoveled these treats intoawaxpaperbagwithalargescoop,andIwouldhappilypoptheminmymouthonthewayhome.

It was not a delicate product. Without fancy shapes, fillings, oradornments, chouquettes seldom sat in the prime location on the displaycounter. But something about the way the pearl sugar crunched slightlywitheachbitewonmyheart.Andthelight,popover-liketexture—toastedontheoutsideandeggyandsoftwithin—madethemsoeasytoeat.Bitebybite,I’demptyawholebagwithoutrealizingit.

ThechouquetteswereahardselltoNewYorkerswhohadn’tgrownupwith them.Customersalways seemeddisappointed to findout that itwas“nothing special.” It didn’t promise to open new doors to flavors andtextures. It didn’t dazzle. No wonder it never became popular in the UnitedStates,Ithought.ButthequestionIcouldn’tstopaskingmyselfwas:HowdiditbecomesopopularinFrance?

Towardtheendofeachdayinthebakery,Ihadahabitof lookingatwhichpastrieswerethelasttosellout.Predictably,thechouquettewasoneofthem.Oneday,fifteenminutesbeforethedoorsclosed,acouplewalkedin and perused our final offerings—and both picked an order of tenchouquettes. They politely asked our cashier to help service them morequicklyastheyweretryingtocatchamoviethatwasstartingsooninthetheateruptheblock.

Alightbulbwentoninmyhead.Thechouquettewasn’tsimilartoanybakeryitemIhadseeninNewYork,butitwasverysimilartooneitemofferedineverymovietheaterthroughoutthecity:popcorn.Theritualofeatingbothwassimilar.Youcarryitinabag.Youmunchonafewwhiledoing something else. It was something that was casual, to be enjoyedwithoutconsumingyourfullattention,likeapleasantsoundtrackplayinginthebackground.

From that day on, I combined these two treats, using the crunch ofcaramelizedpopcornkernelstoaddfurthertexturetothechouquettes.Andbitebybite,thecustomershoppedonthebandwagon.

Sometimes, the key to creation is the process of hunting for naturalcompatibilities.Likematchmaking,we search for soulmates.And thoughpopcorn and chouquettes come from different fields, cultures, and eventimes,oursensesconfirmedthattheybelongedtogether.

Whenthechouquetteswereremovedfromthemenutomakeroomfornewofferings,theybecameoneofthethingsourregularsoftenaskfortothisday.“Ineverreallyknewabout itbeforeItried ithere,”acustomertoldme. “But somethingmademe feel like I had been eating it allmylife.”

6

EverythingButtheFlavor

Onewinter,Ihadoneofthoseflusthatwouldn’tgoaway.Andwhileasmallsinusproblemisunpleasantforanyone,forachefitcan be debilitating. I could no longer detect the depth andcomplexityofsweet,salty,sour,andbitteronmytongue.Takeabite of an apple and an onion the next time you have a stuffynose.You’llfindthemindistinguishable.

Liketheplot toatragedy,Iwasachefwhocouldnottaste.Butthenthings started to change. The human mind and body evolve andcompensate.Ifyoulosesightinoneeye,yourvisionintheothernaturallyadjusts.Knockoutonesense,andtheothersintensify.Andjustasclosingyour eyes helps you hear your surroundings better, I began to see thisdisadvantageasanopportunitytofocusonmoresubtleaspectsoffood.

Whenyoureadarestaurantreview,somuchofwhatisdescribedistheflavorofeachdish.Doesgrapefruitworkwellwithchocolate?Woulditbeabettermatchwithrosemary?Howwastheseasoning?Thesearethetypesof decisions on ingredients and seasoning chefs consider daily. Butwhenyoucan’ttaste,youstarttonoticealltheothertraits.

Thischapterisaboutthingsyoumayhaveonceoverlooked.ByleavingcustomersinthedarkaboutthespecificingredientsinmySunflowerTart,Iletthemexperienceanentirelynewspectrumofflavors.Irecountthestoryof the Frozen S’more,my take on a nostalgic campfire treat, and how awoodenbranchhelpedmeredefineboundaries.Substitutesarecommoninrecipes, but in the storyof themuch-lovedMontBlanc and its signaturetowerofchestnutcream,the ingredientthat is thesubstitutebecomesthestar.Iexplainhowcertainflavorstaste“warm”withmyversionofabakedAlaska, and reveal my quest to find a taste for the color purple in thePurpleTart.And last, I talkabout thearlette,amagnificentcookiewhosefragilityisitsstrength.

Sometimeswecansufferfromacaseofnearsightedness.Inconcerts,wezoominontheleadvocalistandforgetthebandthatsupportshimorher.We notice the vibrant red roses in a bouquet before we appreciate thebaby’sbreaththatbuffersthem.We’reoftenblindedbytheobvious.Inthischapter,Ifindinspirationinwhat’softenignored.

Icouldn’tcookas I recovered fromthe flu.All Icoulddowas think.Beforebed, I jotteddown some ideas fornewdesserts.Whenmy sensesfinally recovered, I returned to thekitchen andhadmy first official tastetest.Theybecamesomeofmyfavoritecreationstodate.

THESUNFLOWERTARTILLUSION

A few years ago, I drank an amazing cup of hot chocolate. It had adistinctive nuttiness, as if the cocoa beans had been roasted fresh thatmorning.AfterImadeafewattemptstodiscernthetypeofchocolatetheyused, the chef finally toldme that the “secret” was caramel. There wasabsolutelynothingextraordinaryaboutaddingcarameltohotchocolate,butthefactthattheyhadn’tspecifieditwasacaramelhotchocolatemadethetouchunexpected.Withoutthedescription,thefamiliarflavorwashardtopinpoint. Until someone pointed it out. I took another sip of the hotchocolate,andthereitwas—Icouldtastethecaramelnotesdistinctly.

How the wheels in the mind begin to turn before any food hits the tongue, Ithought. The briefest encounter can leave deep-rooted memories—particularly when it comes to taste.Mention an ingredient andwe can’thelpbutprocess,project,andexpanduponit.Asacourtesy,Ihadalways

thought it good practice to list the key ingredients of my desserts forcustomers.ButonthedayIcreatedtheSunflowerTart,Ibrokethishabit.

TheSunflowerTart,contrarytoitsname,didnotcontainanysunflowerseeds—orinfactanythingrelatedtoasunflower.Rather,itwasamonikerbased purely on aesthetics. Thin, mandoline-sliced pieces of ripe fruitsurrounded a gelée center that was adorned with a sprinkling of poppyseeds.Assembledwith anombréoforange,gold, and auburn tones fromthe fruit, the tart resembled its eponymous flower and was a tantalizingsighttobehold.

Butjustwhatwasinit?Theingredientswere“secret,”andsurprisingly,very few customers asked. When I asked them to guess what theingredientswereontheirown,theanswerswerefascinating.Withoutanyguidelines,theypickedupnotesoflavenderandviolet,melonandbutter,and all sorts of exotic blossoms and fruits. In reality, the tart was acombinationofpassionfruit,apricot,andhoney.Iaddedahintofaspiceblendthatcontainedlemonpeel,saffron,andpeppercorn,whichamplifiedtheripenessofthefruit.

Passion fruit and apricot are not unusual flavors in the pastry world;they’re a natural pair with their balance of sweet and tart. But with itsingredientsunstatedanddescriptionminimal, theunassuming tart inspiredmycustomerstoprojectlayerafterlayerofextraflavors.Thefinaltouchofimagination in any creation can sometimes be left to be filled in bysomeoneelse.Keepingthings“secret”isnotsomuchaboutprotectionasitisaboutexploration.Theunknownisawildlyimaginativeplace.

AS’MOREFORALLSEASONS

The s’more has always caughtmy eye. Themesmerizingway the ambercharspreadsacrossthesurfaceofthemarshmallowasitroastsoverthefire.How the white core oozes under the pressure of the graham crackerssandwichingit.Andhowthemoltenchocolatepeeksoutfromthebottomastheheatbeginstomeltit.

What really stole my attention, however, was the wooden branchstickingthroughthemarshmallowasitroastedoverthefire.Itmadeforatool for both cooking and eating—a handle with a real functionalsignificance:itmadethes’morefinger-friendlyandfun.Amarshmallowonaforkorplatewouldnevercarrythatsamespirit.

One summer,NewYork experienced record-breaking temperatures inan excruciating heat wave that lasted throughout July. Most of thecustomers wanted lemonade and couldn’t stomach much more. Walkingdownthestreetfromthestorebeneaththeblisteringsun,Ibegantonoticeawhole lot of people holding ice cream cones and Popsicles. Ice creamconesandPopsiclesconvenientlycamewith theirownhandle.Sodoes thes’more,Ithought.

Back in the kitchen, I began towork on an ice cream version of thes’moretostanduptothesesummertimetreats.Thefirststepwastocreateamarshmallow thatwouldn’t freeze solid butwould remain chewywiththehelpofhoneyinsteadofsugar.Withinit,Icreatedacoreofsoftvanillaicecreamcoatedwithchocolate-covered feuilletinetomimicthecrunchofgrahamcrackersandprovideahintofchocolate.Thewholethingwasthenskeweredwithawillowwoodbranch,whichIsmokedwithapplewoodtomimic the smell of a campfire. Each Frozen S’morewas then torched toorderforcustomers.

SeeingtoastedmarshmallowsonbranchesbeingcarrieddowntheSoHostreetsinthemiddleofasummerdaywassurreal.Itintriguedanyonewhopassed by to ask what the very familiar yet seemingly out-of-place itemwas.Allthisfromahumblewoodenbranch.

The world speaks to each of us in a particular language. You see apuddle on the street and simply jump over it, but a photographermightstopandappreciatethebeautyofthesky’sreflectionwithinit.Aprettygirl

turnsyourheadwhileafashiondesignerraisesaneyetoacknowledgethedrapeofherdress.Whenweimmerseourselvesinaspecificfield,welearnthecadencesofthatparticularlanguage.Ilookatas’moreandseenotjusthowit’smade,buthowitcouldbemade.Experienceandexpertisehelpustransformfromappreciatorstocreatorswhoseeendlesspossibility.

“ILOOKATAS’MOREANDSEENOTJUSTHOWIT’SMADE,BUTHOWITCOULDBEMADE.”

ASWEETPOTATOSUBSTITUTE

Theword“substitute”inducesaninstantheadacheforanychef.Hereatthebakery,wealwaystryourbesttoaccommodate.Wereplace

flourwithgluten-freealternatives;wecutoutnutswhenwecan.Theextrastep, the added effort—thatwas neverwhat vexedme about substitutes.What I hated was the stigma around the backup ingredient. Substitutesresult from limitations; they are seen as secondary to the original. Asubstitutesuggestsit’snot“thewayitwasintendedtobe.”

Aroundthetimeofwritingthisbook,Ibecamefascinatedwiththeideaofsubstitutes.Iunderstoodtheirplaceandnecessityincertainrecipes.TaketheclassicFrenchMontBlanc,apastrynamedafterafamousmountainandinterpreted through a tower of chestnut cream surrounding meringue,orangemarmalade,andwhippedcream.WesourceourchestnutsdirectlyfromAubenasinFranceeveryfallandwinter,butasIwaswritingthelistofingredientstoincludeinthisrecipe,IwonderedwhetherthehomecookcouldfindtheminasupermarketintheStates.

Monthslater,lostinthoughtatthedinnertableonThanksgivingDay,Itookbiteafterbiteofcandiedsweetpotato.Andinamomentofclarity,I

realized the textural similarities between that and chestnut purée. Bothwere smooth, creamy, and slightly sweet. But only one had the addedbenefitofbeingaccessibletothehomecook.

IwokeupthenextmorningandheadedimmediatelytothekitchentocreateaSweetPotatoMontBlanc.NeverhadIexperiencedaningredientthatsonaturallyadopteditsnewrole.ThestrikingcolorofthecreamasImoldeditintotheshapeofamountainpeaklookedliketheterra-cottaoftheRockiesratherthantheharshergrayrocksofMontBlanc.Thesweetpotatocreamblendedseamlesslywiththeorangemarmaladeandmeringue.AndtherewasabutteryqualitytothemixturethatsurpassedtheversionImadewithchestnuts.

Whatbeganasasubstituteingredientendedupastheheroformynewfalldessert.With themore familiar ingredient,customerswhowereonceintimidated by the Mont Blanc now enjoyed the new incarnation. TheSweet Potato Mont Blanc was received like a star, rather than anunderstudy.

This dessert taughtme to bewary of judging ingredients prematurely.It’salessonthathascarriedovertoallaspectsofmylife.Itrynottoputtoomuchstockinreputations.Theysoeasilyundercutaningredient’s—oraperson’s—potential.Manyofthemostfamoussingerstodaystartedoffasbackup for a then-more-popular band.Greatmenwereonce assistants tosomeoneelse.Justbecauseoneitemortopicisn’tplayingakeyrolenowdoesn’tmeanitwon’texcel inthefuture.Every inspirationis lookingforitsbigbreak.

BAKINGPIEINALASKA

“What makes the desert beautiful,” said the Little Prince in Antoine deSaint-Exupéry’snovel,“isthatsomewhereithidesawell.”It’soneofthefewlinesIcanrecallfromreadingthebookinschool.Somethingaboutitmademedream.Anoasis,hiddenwithinthesandydunesofthedesert,istheperfectmetaphorforhopeandpossibility.

IthoughtofthisquotewhenIfirsttastedthebakedAlaska.Itcametothe table roaringwith flames. Iwatched themeringue slowlydarkenandflambéunder its fieryhalo.Butwhile its entrancewasgrand, thedessertturnedouttoberatherbland.

“Itprettymuchjust tastes likespongecakeand icecream,”mydiningcompanion said. She dispelled the fantasy as I took my first bite. But Iwasn’tcontenttoletthatbe.Thepromiseoffireandiceholdssomuchpotential,Ithought.Iwasdeterminedtofindawaytocarrytheseflavorsbeyondthebaked Alaska’s surface. For weeks, I approached this challenge like aRubik’scube,shiftingblockstotrytomatchupthepieces.

I began to research how food scientistsmade hot ice cream.Readingvolumesofexperiments,Ilearnedhowtousefoodgumsandhydrocolloidswithunpronounceablenames.Thebizarre,foreigningredientsinmoleculargastronomyhadalwaysintriguedbutintimidatedme.

Finally,Itookastepback.Iwasfocusingonthescienceratherthanthetaste. I had forgotten that certain ingredients naturally “taste” like atemperature.Mint feels cooling to the throat even after being steeped inhotwater for tea.Chile pepper flakes add heat to a cold salad.And thebeautyoftheseingredientsisthatnotoneofthemwasmanufacturedinalab.

With four flavors of ice cream and sorbet—green apple Calvados,caramel, smoked cinnamon, and vanilla—I constructed the flavors ofmybakedAlaska.Itoastedsalted-buttercookiestocoatthebottomandsides.When Iwas done, I sharedmy creationwithmy team. “It tastes like awarmapplepieàlamode,”onepersonsaid.Ofcourse,thedessertwasn’tservedwarm,butIunderstoodexactlywhatshemeant.

We’retaughtinthisworldthatnothingworthwhilecomeseasily,andsoweoftenassumethatthedifficultpathistherightone.ButasIstruggled

toimprovethebakedAlaska,Irealizedthattomakesomethingbetter,youdon’talwayshavetoripitapart.Instead,ifyouidentifytherighttweaks,you can effect great change with the smallest gesture. You just have towanderinadesertforawhiletofindanoasis.

Ioncehearda storyabout astronauts,whichmayormaynotbe true.Upinspace,theystruggledtowritewithballpointpens,whichnolongerworkedwithoutgravitytopulldowntheink.Engineersstartedtodevelopspecializedspacepens thatwerepressurizedchambersandcouldwriteonceilingsonearth,too.Butthesimplersolution,ofcourse,wasjusttouseapencil.

WHATPURPLETASTESLIKE

Weliveinacolorfulworld,andourmindsareconstantlyinterpretingwhatthese colors mean. You pick through the mangoes stacked on thesupermarketshelvestofindarichorangeskinthatsignifiesthefruitisripefor eating. Faint specks of greenwarn you that the bread is rotten. Thedeepeningamberas caramel cooks reads likea thermometer and letsyouknow to take the pot off the heat before the caramel turns bitter fromburning. When it comes to food, color has always been an indicator ofwhat’stocome.Butwhatdoesthecoloractuallytastelike?

EarlyautumnisharvestseasoninupstateNewYork.AndoneOctober,I was lucky to spend an afternoon combing through the bushes to pickfresh blackberries at a farm. Driving back into the city, I snacked on acartonofblackberriesandreturnedtothebakerytofindmyhands,teeth,andtonguestainedaninkypurple.ItgavemetheideaforthePurpleTart.

The dessert features a combination of blackberries, dark plums, andConcordgrapes.Thefruitsareseldomusedinarecipetogether,butwithmy newfound appreciation for color, they seemed to belong in the samefamily.I tastedeachonecarefully.Purplefruitsaren’texactlysweet,as isthecasewithredstrawberriesor raspberries.Theyall shareda lightedgefrom the tannins of the skin and a deep, wine-like flavor. Colorcoordinatingbecameanewwaytodiscovercompatibletastes.

Oureyes trumpour tastebudswhen itcomes tocolor,andwe forgethowcolor affectsour senseof taste aswell asour sight.We’ve all tastedcolor—thinkoftheraw,vegetaltasteofchlorophyllfromgreenfruits.ThePurpleTartremindedmetouseallmysenses,andtothinkwithmyeyes,ears,fingers,nose,andtastebudstomakeconnectionsbetweeningredientsIhadn’tbefore.

Poetsdescribewordsassweetandheartsasfull.Perfumerscreatescentsthatsmellbeautiful.Whatifwecouldunderstandwhatitisliketohearasunsetorseemusic?Imaginewhatthefutureholdsifweaccessitwithalloursenses.

THEBREAKABLEARLETTE

Whattypeofwatchdoyouwear—digitalormechanical?Ifitisthelatter,askyourselfwhy.Amechanicalwatchisadevicefromanoldergeneration.Many are not waterproof; they are less accurate and come with feweradded functions. The digital watch, with its slicker shape and moreconvenientuse,wasmeanttobeamodernalternative.Itislesscostlyandmoredurable,andevenoffersmorewearablecomfort.Butwhy is it thatdigitalwatcheshaven’tcompletelyreplacedtheclassicmechanicalwatch?

The answer to that question led me to the arlette. The lesser-knowncousinofapalmier,thearlettetakesalotmoreworkandturnsouttobeamorefragileproduct.Andyet,itisoneofmymostbelovedpastries.Madewithlaminateddoughcoatedinsugar,thearlettestartsoffasathree-inchsegmentthat isdelicatelystretchedwitharollingpin intoaten-inch-longoval.Youknowit’sreadytobakewhenyoucanseetheclearshadowofyourhandbehindthedoughasyouholdituptothelight.

Said to have originated in the south of France, the beautifullycaramelized cookie is as thin as a leaf and features concentric rings thatlook like agate stone. A bit of gentle pressure between your thumb andforefinger, anddelicatepiecesbreakoff, eachbutterybite almostmeltingonyourtongue.Myfavoritewaytoeatthearletteistosmashitupontopof ice cream and scoopup the flaky pieceswith a spoon as they slightlysoftenwiththemeltingcream.

I’vealwayswonderedwhythearletteissolittleknown,evenbypastrychefsinFrance.Thefragilityandtheresultinginconvenienceofthearlettekeep it from earning a place next tomoremainstream bakery selections.Mostbakersopttomakethemoreuser-friendlypalmier,whichcanbeuptotentimesthickerandat leasthalfagainthesize.ButI lovethearlettebecause it reminds me of an heirloom mechanical watch. The skill andfinesse required to make such a beautiful object mean it should betreasured. Fragile can in fact mean precious; challenging can meanrewarding.As Icreate, I setmyowndefinitions,andIchoose to see thebrightersideeverytime.

Asachef,Ineverhavetheopportunitytowearwatches,sinceworkinginthekitchenmeanskeepingone’swristsandhandsfreeofaccessories.In

mywhole life, Ihaveownedjustone—anoldpocketwatchI foundinavintagestore. Itno longer tells time,but I love themasterfulwheelsandmechanismswithin it. Its new function has an even higher goal—that ofinspiration.

7

NEVERRUNOUTOFIDEAS

Ihadneverspentsomuchmoneyonapieceofclothingbefore.The crisp white button-down cost forty francs, and for me, itamountedtomanydays’worthofsalary.Irememberunwrappingitcarefullyandputtingituponahangerinmycloset.Itwasmyfirst“adult”shirt,andIimaginedmyselfwearingitforthebetter,moreformaloccasionsinthefuture.Whenthetimefinallycame,manyyears later,Islippedmyarmsthroughthe sleeves of the shirt—still with its label attached—and looked in the

mirror. The sleeveswere two inches short of reachingmywrists. In thetimethathadpassedwiththeshirthangingprotectedanduntouchedinmyclosest,Ihadoutgrownit.

Savingthebestforlastisagreatconceptintheory,butitcanleadyoutowastethat“best”altogether.Thisisespeciallytrueintherealmofideas.Howmany ideashaveyouhungon to,keptburied in theclosetofyourmind, too precious to share? We wait for an ideal moment; we giveourselves an eternity to strategize. All the while, we forget there areexpirationdates.Wearesubject toanever-evolvingworld.What isnewandinnovativetodaymaynotbetomorrow.

At the bakery,we change ourmenu every six to eightweeks,whichrequires that we generate fresh ideas consistently. Of course, it takes awhile toget to the reallygood stuff.When I sitdownwithmy team toplananewmenu,thefirstcoupleofsuggestionsarealwaysfragmentedandunspectacular. We shout them out, brainstorming, without much carewhethertheyarechosenornot.It’sallpartofthewarm-up.Thehardpartis persuading people to release those precious “best” ideas they keepguardedlikethekingonachessboard.

There’safearthatwewon’tevercomeacrossanything“asgood.”Thatwe’llendupbeingaone-hitwonder.Havealittlefaithinyourself.It’snotaboutreleasingoneideaintotheworld,butembracingideagenerationasalifestyle.Ideasmustbeseen,heard,touched,andtastedtobecomereal.Letthemlive;otherwisetheyaremerelyghostsinourheads.

Thestories includedinthischapterfeaturesomeofmynewest ideas.Italkabouthowgingerbreadinspiredmetobuildnothouses,butpineconessnow-dustedwithconfectioners’sugar.Believeitornot,someofmybestideas,suchastheChocolateCaviarTart,camefromdreams.Ialsoexploredisguising certain desserts by using tools meant for one in another’spreparation,andyou’ll seehowwhenIdescribe theAppleMarshmallow.AndIendwithmymostrecentobsession:findingawaytoletcustomersaddthefinaltouch,asisthecasewiththe“LimeMeUp”Tart.

IonceattendedadinnerwhereourhostuncorkedabottleofChâteauMargaux1978,aBordeauxwinethatwasasoldasIwas.Theoccasionwasnothingworthnoting,anditfeltabitwastefulashetoppedoffmyglass.But thenIremindedmyself:wineshouldbedrunk,chocolateseaten,andnew clothingworn.Have confidence that there is always a better future

ahead.Iraisedmyglassinatoast.Cheers,Ithought,asIheardaroundofclinks.Here’stoneverrunningoutofideas.

GINGERBREADNEEDNOTBEHOUSES

AfewblocksawayfromthecomplexwhereIgrewupwasaconstructionsite,andIwalkedpastitdailyonmywaytoschool.Inthefirstfewweeks,a wooden frame lay upon the ground. Once the foundations were set,beamswereerectedandthewallsclimbedupwarduntilfinallyitcametimefortheceilingtobeinstalled.

Forcenturies,pastrieswereconstructedinverymuchthesameway.Atartorcakeisbuiltupwardwithcreamas“cement”betweenthelayersofspongeandgarnishedwithanornamentor“cherryontop.”Andthiswasthe way I started to construct last winter’s new dessert, which featuredgingerbread.Ilayeredthinpiecesofchocolateontopofoneanotherwithalightginger-spicedmousse inbetweento“glue”thestructuretogether.Itwassturdy,buthadallthecharismaofabrickwall.

We build houses with wood, concrete, and nails, but surely we could drawinspiration from other structures for desserts, I thought. I began to notice theway other animals in nature construct their dwellings. How a spiderweb

spiralsfromthecentertotheoutside.Thehoneybeehiveslowlyfillsinthespaceof crevices.And there’smagicbehind thewaynaturecreateseverysnowflake.

WithChristmasjustaroundthecorner,therestoftheteamgatheredforour little tree-lighting ceremony in the greenhouse behind the bakery. Iarrived to seeabeautifully lit tree,but Ialsonoticeda singularpineconeornamentonatablenearby.FromadistanceIhadmistakenitforacake.Thatbecamethecornerstoneformyidea.

Thenextday,Ipipedasoftgingerbread-spicedmousseinaspiraltower.Rather than building my dessert from bottom to top, I carefully placedmore thansixty smallpiecesofchocolate, thesizeandshapeofpineconescales,aroundthedessert.Alightdustingofconfectioners’sugar,andallofasudden,itlookedlikeasolitarypinecone,coveredwithsnow.

Ifitwereuptomostcooks,gingerbreadwouldbebuiltintohouses,notpinecones.Butwhy not think like a bee or a spider and take inspirationfrom Mother Nature? Ants were constructing colonies in the sand longbefore man sought temporary shelter in a cave. We put into practice asmallpercentageofwhat’spossible.Entireuniversesexistwithinourown,andwearefreetoborrowasweplease.

ATARTFROMADREAM

In our dreams, we can be anyone, and anywhere, we want to be. Wecontroltime,space,andthesequenceofevents.Andeverything,nomatterhow outlandish it may seem when we wake, feels completely natural.Dreamworldsdonotfollowtherulesofreality,andwhattakesplacethereisoftenimprobable.Butimpossible?That’sanotherquestionentirely.

I keep a small journal next to my bed, and I jot down ideas fromdreams.Therearebutafewminutestorecall thembeforetheyslipfrommymemory.TheChocolateCaviarTartcametomeinonesuchdream.Init, Ienteredabrightly litbanquet room.Theclinkofglassware rangoutabovethesteadymurmuroftheguests.SomehowIendedupseatedatthetable,whereawaiterdressed inablack jacket servedmeanentire tinofcaviar. I took a bite.And rather than the salty brine of sturgeon eggs, Itastedchocolate instead.Bite afterbite, Iplungedmy spoon into the tin.When I woke up, I could still feel the chocolate pearls rolling on mytongue.

IrealizedIcouldcreatethissamechocolatecaviarinreallife.Itwasaneleganttechnique.Imixedalightchocolateganacheandaddedgelatinsothatwhenthedropletsofthewarmmixturehitcoldoil,itwouldsetintoperfectspheres.Usingatartshellasthecaviar“tin,”Ifilledtheinsidewithanairycoffeecreamandtoppeditgenerouslywiththechocolatepearls.Aquenelleofwhippedcreamsatontop,mimickingthecrèmefraîchethatistraditionallyofferedasacaviarcondiment.

Indreams,youneverhavetoobeytherulesoflogic.Nobodytellsyouthat something is too expensive or too difficult to do. There are nonaysayers.Simplyimagine,anditbecomesreal.Whyshouldn’talldreamsbe the roots fromwhich action should grow?TheWright brothersmostcertainlydreamtofflyingbeforetheyconstructedanairplane.Anddespiteflightseeminglikean“impossible”questatfirst,allitneededwasjustabitofwork.Let’sbringthatsamemind-settothekitchen.Ifwethinkthewaywedream,whatwonderscouldwecreate?

The Chocolate Caviar Tart was a popular item over the New Yearholidays.OnNewYear’sEve,Ibroughtalargetartasdesserttoafriend’sgathering.Afterdinner,Itookittothetableandpositionedit infrontof

myplace setting so that I couldhelp serve it. Itwas at that point that IrealizedIhadseentheexactsamescenebefore.Ithadbeenadreamandnowwasareality.

THEMARSHMALLOW’SDISGUISE

In theGreekmyths, the gods fromOlympus had a fondness for comingdowntoearth indisguise.Aphrodite threwona raggedcape tohideherbeauty.Zeus transformedhimself into ahaggardoldman.Andwhen thegreat heroes came in contact with these camouflaged gods, how theytreated them could result in an offer of great help or the curse of epicpunishment.

The idea of disguise has always intrigued me. I love the surprise ofsomething unexpected. There’s a joy in being outsmarted. And after theintrigue,thefinaldiscoveryfeelslikeareward.

Todaythingsareabitmorestraightforward.Howmanytimeshaveyouhad a dessert that ended up tasting different or unexpected compared tohowitlooked?Whatyouseeiswhatyouget.

Just afterValentine’sDay, I usually reorganize the kitchen equipment,packing away all the plastic molds I purchased to build chocolates indifferent shapes.Last time,when I returned from the storagecupboard, IrealizedIhadmissedone.

Asmallplasticmoldintheshapeofanapplewasleftonmydesk.Whatif I give it another function? I thought. What if this mold could create achocolate“disguise” foranothermedium? Inchoosing theperfect foil forthedark,rock-solidchocolate,Iselectedthewhiteandfluffymarshmallow.

I decided to make an Apple Marshmallow. First, I lightly coated themoldwithtemperedchocolatetocreateashell.Afteritwasset,Ifilledtheinterior with tender vanilla marshmallow and a liquid caramel core. Itlooked likeanapple,hada shellofchocolate,butwas filledwithvanillaand caramel. Every bite revealed an unforeseen twist. Each new layerdeepenedthedessert’scharacter.

WhenIcreatesomethingnew,Ithinkaboutthefinalreveal,butIalsothinkabouthowmycustomerreachesthatpoint.Itshouldbeaprocessofdiscovery. As the saying goes, “Never judge a book by its cover.” Younever know what you’ll find on the last page. And creations shouldcaptivateyoufrombeginningtoend.

ABESPOKELIMETART

“Nonfat,half-caf,extrafoam,extrahot,soylatte,”cametheordertothebaristaatourbakery.

“Soit’stheusual,then,”sheresponded,andbegantomakethedrink.Ihavealwaysbeenasingleespressokindofguy.Butitamazesmehow

specific an individual coffee order can be. Even the most complex ofrequests,althoughittakesafewsecondstoprocess,canbemet.Youcangetyourcoffeeexactlythewayyoulikeit.

It’s a natural human instinct to want to personalize. We expressourselves through the clotheswewear, themusicwe listen to, andeventhescreensaverweselectonourcomputersandphones.Inanidealworld,at the bakery we would be able to customize everything to meet eachcustomer’sindividualpreferences.Butonadailybasistherearelimits.Wehave to create based on general opinions. Ingredients like chocolate andcaramel, forexample,are typically lovedandconsideredsafebets foranypastrychef.Theyarecrowd-pleasersandinstantlywinafanbase.Butonceinawhile,aconsensusishardtoreach.

Itwasthethirdtimetheteamhadgatheredtotaste-testthespringlimetart and nobody could agree on the right seasoning. What one personfound to be sour, another thought was cloyingly sweet. Some suggestedaddingapinchofsalt,whileotherspreferredtomaintainthelime’spurity.Thefeedbackonthissimpletartwasdramaticallypolarizing.

It felt like a tug-of-war of opinions, and we finally realized that wewouldn’tbeabletodecideonwhattheflavorintensityshouldbe.Eachofthestaffhadhisorherownpreferences.Andthat’swhenIhadathought:It’sthecustomerwhomustultimatelybetheonetochoose.

But how could we customize a pastry on the spot? It would beimpossible tobuild it fromscratch foreachperson.Thesolutioncame tomeonenightduringdinneratanItalianrestaurant,whenthewaiteraskedif anyone preferred to add cheese or pepper to the pasta. I found claritybehindtheideaofthesefinishingtouches.

Together,theteamandIdesignedasmallgrooveonthetopoftheKeylimemousse.A thinpieceofwhitechocolateheldwithin it amixtureofMaldon salt,brown sugar, andcrushed juniperberries, and to the side, a

freshwedge of lime.The three flavors featured in the tart—sweet, salty,and sour—eachhad its ownmodifiers, and the customers could adjust totheir tastesaccordingly.Eachpersoncouldadd thedesiredamountof thesugarandsaltmixtureandsqueezethefreshjuiceoftheKeylimetohisorherliking.

Itwasastepinanewdirection.Onethatofferedachanceforsomeoneotherthanthecheftomodifyadish.Itallowedthecustomertoparticipateintheprocessandtohavethefinalword.Creationasajointeffortissurelytobecomeawayofthefuture.

RECIPES

BEGINNER

INTERMEDIATE

ADVANCED

ATOASTBEFOREBAKING

Midnightandeveryoneelsehadleftthekitchen.Theresoundingvoices and clankingofmachineryduring thedaytimehad fallenintoabsolutesilence.Allaloneinahalf-litbasement,Istaredatwhatseemedaninsurmountableobstacle:Ihadtoglazeafrozenmoussecake.

The instructions were simple: gently warm up chocolate ganache andpour it over the cakeuntil it formed an even, gleaming coat.Nomatterhow hard I tried, it just didn’t work. If the glaze wasn’t heated upsufficiently, it would cool upon contact with the frozenmousse and theflowwouldslowlikehardeninglavabeforeenvelopingtheentirecake.Ifitwere heated up too long, the ganachewould reduce and thicken,whichwouldalsoinhibititsabilitytosmoothlydrizzleoverthecake.Eachoneof

my attempts resulted in bubbles and ripples. And I knewwhenmy chefsurveyeditthenextday,Iwouldgetreprimandedforthepoorresults.

SothereIwas,onmyownwithachallengeandnofurtherdirectiononhowtoovercomeit.Itwasmythirdnightinthekitchen,andIwaspullingmyhair out forwhat felt like inescapable defeat. “I did exactly as Iwastold,” I said out loud, desperate for some sort of help.The empty roomhadnoanswersforme.

Forsomereason,Iturnedupthefireandbegantoheatuptheglazeashot as I could, just under the boiling point. And then I decided to addwater to increase its fluidity. I was sure my chef would have seen themethodasanabomination.WhathaveIgottolose?Ithought.

I positioned the frozen cake beneath my steaming-hot, watered-downganacheandpoureditoverthesurfaceofthecake.Iwatchedasitrolledthrougheachcreviceandfelldownthesidesandthroughthegapsofthewire rack. I stepped back. Theworkwas pristine. Every corner coveredwithanevenandfluidlayerofchocolateganache.

Thatnight,Ibrokeeveryrule.Andwhat’smore,Irealizedthatitwasmydutytobreakthem.Iftherulesdon’tworkforyou,makeupnewonesthat do.Whenyougo through the recipes that follow, youmay face anempty kitchen, as I did that night. I won’t be there to answer yourquestionsorgivepointers.Butdon’tbe afraid to try, and toexperiment,andtolookforanalternativethatworksforyou.Youmayfindthatbakingthings in a hotter oven yields better results for you, or that you like towhiskyourganachewithahandblender.“Whynot?”I’dsay.That’s thereallessonofcookingandcreating.

ThenightI finishedproperlyglazingmycake, ImademyselfacupofhotchocolatefromtheleftoverganachethatIhadusedastheglaze.Everydropwasacelebration.Thisbecamemygo-tohotchocolate,anditistheveryfirstrecipeIwillsharewithyou.

ANOTEONMEASUREMENTS

Before you turn the page, I want to share a few words onmeasurements. Recipes can list the quantities of ingredients byvolumeorbyweight.IntheUnitedStates,bakersusemeasuringcups

and spoons to determine volume. Elsewhere, bakers use the metricsystemtodetermineweight.I’veprovidedbothinthisbook.

Here’s a tip: In the bakery, and in my kitchen at home, I rely on adigital precision scale to measure my ingredients by weight. Thequantitiescanvaryifyouuseameasuringcuporspoon.Youcanpackacupofflourtightlyorloosely.Youcangrateatablespoonoflemonzestroughlyorfinely.Butaprecisionscaleensuresthatthequantitiesare exact. I have tested these recipes with both types ofmeasurements,andtheresultsarealwaysdelicious.ButIhaveseenmore consistent results when I’ve weighed my ingredients. So if Icouldgiveyouonemorewordofadviceasyoubegintobake,itwouldbeto invest inadigitalprecisionscale.Youcanfindthemwherevercookingsuppliesaresold,bothinstoresandonline.

ANOTEONTIMING

Ialwaysrecommendreadingarecipethroughoncebeforestarting.Atthe beginning of each recipe, I’ve included the amount of “activetime”—thetimespentmeasuring,mixing,slicing,chopping,churning,cooking,andbakingthevariouscomponentsnecessarytocreatethesedesserts.Ihavenotincluded“inactivetime”—thetimespentresting,chilling, or proofing these components. Of course, all of thosedirections are all included in the recipe itself. I’ve also written atimeline for recipes that require more than one day to complete, togiveasenseofwhereyou’regoing,andwhereyou’vebeen.Ihopeyouenjoythejourney.

BEGINNERRECIPES

HOTCHOCOLATE

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...whenIneedtotakeamoment.You’dbesurprisedhowmuchcomfortamugofhotchocolatecanbring.

SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME15minutes

YIELD8to10servings

INGREDIENTS

Wholemilk 7cups 1645grams

Darkchocolate(53%orhighercocoacontent),finelychopped

21/4cups 306grams

Unsweetenedcocoapaste,finelychopped 1/4cup 42grams

MiniMe’s(page116)ormarshmallows(page121)(forserving,optional)

asneeded asneeded

1.Bringthemilktoaboilinamediumpotoverlowheat.

2.Combinethechocolateandcocoapasteinamediumheatproofbowl.Pourthehotmilkoverthemandletstandfor30seconds.1

3.Whiskthechocolate,cocoapaste,andmilk,scrapingthebottomofthebowlwherethechocolatetendstosettle.

4.Whenthechocolateandcocoapastehavebeenincorporatedintothemilk,pourthedesiredamountintoyourfavoritemug.

1.Usingdifferenttypesofchocolateisagoodwaytocustomizeyourownblendofhotchocolate.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Serve hot, topped with Mini Me’s (page 116) ormarshmallows(page121).

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS The chocolate milk can be kept in a closed airtightcontainer in the refrigerator forup to4days.Stir liberallyand reheatover lowheatwhendesired.

CHOCOLATEPECANCOOKIES

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseofitsforgivingnatureandutterlyaddictiveresults.

SKILL LEVEL Beginner TIME 15minutes one day before; 20minutes the day ofYIELD20cookies(about13/4ounces/50gramseach)

TIMELINE

ONEDAYBEFOREMakedoughTHEDAYOFBake

INGREDIENTS

Darkchocolatechips(60%cocoacontentorgreater)

2cups 455grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 3tablespoons+1/2teaspoon 45grams

Granulatedsugar 1cup+2tablespoons+2teaspoons

250grams

Cornstarch 1/4cup 42gramsBakingpowder 3/4teaspoon 3.75grams

Koshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram

Wholeeggs(large),lightlybeaten 3each 3each(150grams)

Pecans,coarselychopped 1/4cup 55grams

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEDOUGH

1.Melt11/2cups(340grams)ofthechocolatechips(setasideremainingchocolate)inadoubleboiler:Fillamediumpotwithabout3inches(7.5cm)waterandbringittoasimmer.Placethechipsinamediumheatproofbowlandplacethebowlsnuglyoverthewater.Stirslowlywithaheatproofspatulatoensurethatthechocolatechipsarecompletelymeltedandsmoothbeforeturningofftheheat.1

2.Meltthebutterinthemicrowave(about30secondsonhigh).Mixintothemeltedchocolatewiththespatula.Keepwarmoverthehotwater.

3.Combinethesugar,cornstarch,bakingpowder,andsaltinalargebowl.Addtheeggsandwhiskuntilfullyblendedandthemixtureresemblespancakebatter.Usethespatulatomakesureyouincorporateanydryingredientsthathavesettledonthebottomorsidesofthebowl.

4.Slowlywhiskinthemeltedchocolate–buttermixture.(Ifithascooledandbeguntosolidify,gentlyreheatitbeforeincorporating.)5.Gentlyfoldintheremaining1/2cup(115grams)chocolatechipsandthepecanswiththespatula.2

6.Transferthedoughtoashallowbakingdish.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthebatter,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttorest.

THEDAYOFBAKE

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.

2.Usingyourhands,breakthedoughintopiecesthesizeofyourpalm(about31/2tablespoons/50grams).Rollthedoughintoballsandplacethemonthesheetpanatleast2inchesapartfromoneanother.Pressgentlyonthetopofeachballwiththepalmofyourhandtomakeathickdisk.Thisdoughdoesn’tspreadmuch,sothedisksshouldberelativelyclosetothesizeofcookieyou’dlike.

3.Bakeonthecenterrackfor4minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakeforabout4minutesmore.Whenthecookiesarejustbeginningtocrackon

topbutthedoughissetontheedgeandhasasoftspotaboutthesizeofaquarterinthecenter,removefromtheoven.

4.Letthecookiescoolonthepanfor5to7minutes,tofurtherset.5.Removethecookiesfromthepanandsetaside.Relinethecooledpanwith

cleanparchmentpaperandcontinuewiththeremainingdough.

1.Ifevenadropofwatergetsintothechocolate,itcanseizeandturngrainy.Double-checkthatallequipmentisdryandthatthebowlcoverstherimofthepot,wellabovethewater,toavoidanysteam.

2. It’s great to make sure your ingredients are mixed well, but too much mixing overworks thedough and causes it to become tough. That’s why many great recipes call for a period for thedoughtorest.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSAllcookiesarebesteatenwhilewarm.Aglassofice-coldmilkhelps.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSThedoughcanbewrappedinplasticwrapandkeptintherefrigeratorfor3daysorfrozenforupto1week.(Thawintherefrigeratorforafew hours before baking.) The baked cookies can be kept in a closed airtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.

MINIMADELEINES

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseittakesonly5minutestobake(fasterthanboilingwater),andevenfastertoeat!

SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME15minutesonedaybefore;15minutesperbatchthedayofYIELD100minimadeleines

TIMELINE

ONEDAYBEFOREMakebatterTHEDAYOFPipe,bake,andserve

SPECIALTOOLS

Microplane(forgratingzests)UncutpipingbagNonstickminimadeleinepanSmallsieve

INGREDIENTS

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 8tablespoons 115grams

Darkbrownsugar 1tablespoon 15grams

Honey 2teaspoons 15grams

Granulatedsugar 1/2cup 100gramsKoshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram

All-purposeflour,sifted 1cup 120grams

All-purposeflour,sifted 1cup 120grams

Bakingpowder 1/2teaspoon 4grams

Wholeeggs(large),atroomtemperature 3each 3each(150grams)

Gratedlemonzest 1/2lemon 1/2lemonGratedorangezest 1/2orange 1/2orange

Nonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded

Confectioners’sugar(forserving) asneeded asneeded

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEBATTER

1.Meltthebutter,brownsugar,andhoneyinamediumpotoverlowheat.Stirgentlywithaheatproofspatulatoensurethatnothingburns.Keepthemixturewarmoververylowheat,orreheatifnecessary.1

2.Combinethegranulatedsugar,salt,flour,andbakingpowderinalargebowlandmixwellwithawhisk.Formawellinthecenterofthedryingredientsandaddtheeggsonebyone,whiskingtoincorporateeachbeforeaddingthenext.2

3.Whentheeggsarefullyincorporatedandthebatterissmooth,slowlywhiskinthebuttermixture.Whiskinthelemonandorangezests.Thebatterwillstillberunnyandsimilarinconsistencytocakebatter.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthebatter,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttorest.3

THEDAYOFPIPE,BAKE,ANDSERVE

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.4

2.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofbatterinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthebatterdowntowardthetipofthebag.

3.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)straightacrossthetipofthebag.4.Holdthenonstickcookingsprayabout4inches(10cm)awayfroma

nonstickminimadeleinepanandsprayevenlyinallthecavities.5.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)above

thepan,pipethemadeleinebatterintothecavitiessothatitfillseachaboutthree-quartersofthewaytothetop.

6.Bakethemadeleinesfor2to21/2minutesonthecenterrack.Whenyouseethebatterpuffupinthecenter,rotatethepan180degrees.Bakefor2to2

1/2minutesmore,untilthesidesofthemadeleinesaregoldenblondandthecenterhasset.

7.Unmoldimmediately.Bangthecornerorsidesofthemadeleinepanagainstyourworksurfacesothatthefreshmadeleinesdropout.5

1.Usingdifferenttypesofhoneyisagreatwaytonaturallyflavormadeleines.I loveacaciaandwildflowerhoneys.

2.Useroomtemperatureeggstoavoidcoolingdownthebatter.Ifthebatteristoocold,thebuttermaycongealwhenyouaddit.

3.Manyrecipescontainingbakingpowderdowelltorestovernight.Thishelpswithrising,whichisespeciallyimportantforthemadeleine—apastrythatpuffsupinthecenterwhenitbakes.

4.Ingeneralforbakingpastries,setyouroventoconvectioniftheoptionisavailable.Thisallowstheheattoflowmoreevenly.It’sanidealsettingbecauseithelpspastriesbakeevenlyonallsides.

5. If you find that themadeleinesstick to themold, for thenextbatch, try sprayingabitmorecookingspray.Also,keepingthemoldcleanandwashingitthoroughlywithasoftspongeafterusewillalsopreventthemadeleinesfromsticking.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Using a small sieve, sprinkle confectioners’ sugar evenlyoverthefresh-bakedmadeleines.Eatimmediately(donotwaitmorethanevenafewminutes!).

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONSMadeleines are good only when freshly baked. Do notattempt to store them. However, you can keep the batter in a closed airtightcontainer,withplasticwrappressedontothesurface,intherefrigeratorforupto3days.

MINIME’S

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...andfindingallthewaysIcanaddalittlecrunchandtexturetootherdessertswithit.

SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME1hour45minutesYIELD200meringues

SPECIALTOOLS

Instant-readthermometerUncutpipingbagAteco#804plaintip(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter)

INGREDIENTSSWISSMERINGUEConfectioners’sugar 21/4cups 266grams

Eggwhites(large) 4each 4each(120grams)

SUGGESTEDFLAVORINGS

SUGGESTEDFLAVORINGSGroundcinnamon 1/2teaspoon 1.5grams

Gratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemonPeppermintextract 1teaspoon 5grams

1.Preheattheovento200°F(95°C)forconventionalor175°F(80°C)forconvection.

2.Fillamediumpotwithabout3inches(about7.5cm)ofwaterandbringtoasimmer.Combinetheconfectioners’sugarandeggwhitesinamediumheatproofbowl(themetalbowlofastandmixerisfine)andplaceontopofthepotofsimmeringwater.Thebowlshouldsitontherimofthepot,wellabovethewater.

3.Whisktheeggwhitemixtureconstantlyasitwarms.Whenitreaches113°F(45°C)andfeelshottothetouch,removefromtheheat.1

4.Usingastandmixerorhandmixerfittedwithawhisk,whiptheeggwhitesonhighspeed.Astheywhip,theeggwhiteswilltripleinvolume,thicken,andcool.Whenfinished,themeringuewillbeveryfluffyandholdamedium-stiffpeak.Thisshouldtakeabout5minutes,dependingonyourmixer.2

5.Witharubberspatula,gentlyfoldthedesiredflavoringintothemeringue.Feelfreetoseparatethemeringueintobatchesandusedifferentflavors.Justmakesureyoukeepalltoolscleanforeachtoavoidmixingthem.3

6.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingaspatula,place2largescoopsofmeringueinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemeringuedowntowardthetipofthebag.

7.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Ateachcorner,pipeasmalldotofmeringueundertheparchmentandpushtheparchmentflat.Thiswillhelpkeepit“glued”tothesheetpan.

8.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethesheetpan,pipeadotofmeringuewithsteady,evenpressureuntilitreachesthesizeofadime.Pullthepipingbagstraightuptocreateafinepoint.(YoushouldhaveameringueteardropshapedlikeaHershey’sKiss.)Repeatpipingdropsabout1/2inch(1.25cm)apartuntilallthemeringueisused,refillingthepipingbagasnecessary.(Youmightneedtouseafewsheetpans,dependingonthesizeoftheMiniMe’s.)9.Bakethemeringuesfor20minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor20minutesmore.Continuetorotateevery20minutesuntilthemeringuesarecompletelydry,

about1hour20minutes.TheMiniMe’sshouldbecrispyallthewaythrough.

10.TransfertheMiniMe’s,stillontheparchmentpaper,toawireracktocoolcompletely.Whencool,removegentlyfromtheparchmentwithyourfingers.

1.Thiskindofmeringue,inwhichyoudissolvethesugarintheeggwhitesoverheatbeforeyouwhipthem,isknownasa“Swissmeringue.”

2.Don’tworryaboutoverwhippingthemeringue.Itwon’taffectthefinaloutcomeoftheproduct,sobettertooverwhipthanunderwhip.

Whenmakingmeringue,itisveryimportanttousecleantools.Ifadropofoil(orotherfat)oreggyolkgetsintotheeggwhites,themeringuewillnotwhipproperly.

3. The more you work the meringue, the looser its structure becomes. When it bakes, a loosemeringuewillbecomeflatanddense.Itisveryimportanttobeasgentleaspossibleatthisstage.

Whenchoosing flavorings,pickones thatareveryconcentrated.Groundspices,alcohol-basedextracts,andcitruszestsareallgoodoptions.YoucanalsoaddadropofnaturalfoodcoloringtoyourSwissmeringuetocreatecoloredMiniMe’s.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONSThese are aperfect topping for ice cream,cereal, cookiebatter,hotchocolate,cake,orfruit.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONSMiniMe’s can be kept in a closed airtight container atroomtemperature,awayfromhumidity,forupto1week.ExtraMiniMe’scanbeusedforChristmasMorningCereal(page169)ortotopyourHotChocolate(page110).

POPCORNCHOUQUETTES

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...foraportablesnackontherun.

SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME1hour45minutesYIELDAbout50

SPECIALTOOLS

CandythermometerStandmixerwithpaddleattachment(optional)UncutpipingbagAteco#803plaintip(5/16-inch/0.8cmdiameter)Pastrybrush(optional)

INGREDIENTSCARAMELIZEDPOPCORNPopcornkernels 1/4cup 50grams

Vegetableoil 1teaspoon 3grams

Granulatedsugar 1/2cup+1tablespoon 115grams

Brownsugar(lightordark) 1/4cup,looselypacked 50gramsCornsyrup 1tablespoon 20grams

Water 1tablespoon 10grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 4tablespoons 56grams

Bakingsoda 1teaspoon 2grams

Koshersalt 1teaspoon 2grams

Koshersalt 1teaspoon 2grams

PÂTEÀCHOUXWater 1/3cup 75grams

Wholemilk 4tablespoons+1teaspoon 68grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 51/2tablespoons 75grams

Granulatedsugar 1teaspoon 3grams

Koshersalt 1teaspoon 2gramsAll-purposeflour 2/3cup 98grams

Wholeeggs(large) 3each 3each(150grams)

FINISHINGEggwash(1eggand1eggyolk,beaten

together)asneeded asneeded

Pearlsugar 1/3cup 50grams

MAKECARAMELIZEDPOPCORN

1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Combinethepopcornkernelsandvegetableoilinamediumpot.Coverwithalidandcookovermediumheatuntilthekernelsbegintopop.Vigorouslyshakethepottopreventthepopcornfromburning.Continuetocookuntilyounolongerhearthekernelspopping,about5minutes.Spreadthepopcornonthesheetpantocool.Discardanyunpoppedkernels.

2.Combinethegranulatedsugar,brownsugar,cornsyrup,andwaterinanothermediumpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Cookwithoutstirringuntilthecaramelreaches239°F(115°C)andturnsacolorsimilartohoney.

3.Addthebuttertothepotandslowlyswirltomix.Cookuntilthecaramelreaches300°F(149°C)andisabouttwoshadesdarkerandthebubblesaremuchsmaller.

4.Addthebakingsodaandsalt.Becareful!Thebakingsodamightcausethecarameltosplatter.Whiskuntilcompletelyincorporated.

5.Usingaheatproofspatula,foldthepopcornintothecarameluntilitiswellcoated.Pourthepopcornbackontothesheetpan.Separatethepopcornclustersimmediatelywiththespatula.

6.Whencooled,about10minutes,useachef’sknifetofinelychopthepopcorn.Storeinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded.

MAKEPÂTEÀCHOUXANDCHOUQUETTES

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.

2.Combinethewater,milk,butter,sugar,andsaltinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.

3.Addtheflourandstirwithawoodenspoonuntilthemixturecomestogetherandformsadough.Continuetostirthedoughuntilitbeginstodryandyouseeafilmstarttoformatthebottomofthepotastheresultofthedoughsticking,1to2minutes.

4.Transferthedoughtoastandmixerfittedwithapaddle.(Ifyoudon’thaveamixer,useaheatproofspatulatomixthedough.)Addtheeggsoneatatimeandmixonlowspeed,makingsureeacheggisfullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Thismayseemdifficultatfirst,buteventuallythebatterwillloosenup.1

5.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#803plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofchouxdoughinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthedoughdowntowardthetipofthebag.

6.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethepan,pipedotsofchouxdoughabout11/2inches(4cm)indiameter,spacingthemabout1inch(3.5cm)apart.Continuepipinguntilallthechouxdoughhasbeenused,refillingthepipingbagasnecessary.

7.Usingapastrybrushorthetipsofyourfingers,lightlybrushtheeggwashonthechoux.Sprinklethecaramelizedpopcornoverthechoux,completelycoveringthesurface.Dothesamewiththepearlsugar.Usingyourfingers,pressthepopcornandpearlsugarintothechouxtoensurethattheystickasthechouxbake.

8.Bakethechouxonthecenterrackfor10minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor10minutesmore.Whenfinished,thechouxwillbegoldenbrownandfeellighttothetouch.Whenbrokenopen,thechouxshouldbemostlyhollow.

9.Letthechoux,stillontheparchmentpaper,cool.Whencool,removegentlyfromtheparchmentwithyourfingers.

1.Whenmakingpâteàchoux,theamountofeggsneededwillvary.Theconsistencyofthechouxdoughdictateshowmanyeggsshouldbeadded.Tochecktheconsistencyofthechouxdough,diparubberspatulaintothedoughandpullstraightup.ThedoughshouldformasmoothV-shaped“ribbon”ontheendofthespatulawhenit’sready.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Serve at room temperature. The finished PopcornChouquettesarebestconsumedwithin12hoursofbaking.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Pâte à choux dough can be kept in a closed airtightcontainer in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Try making some of the otherrecipeslikeVanillaReligieuse(page137)andParis–NewYork(page145).

MARSHMALLOWCHICKS

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...forthekidsandthechildwithinourselves.

SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME2hoursYIELD12chicks

SPECIALTOOLS

EggscissorsCleaneggcartonCandythermometer3uncutpipingbagsor2uncutbagsand1parchmentpapercornetHandblender(recommended)

StandmixerwithwhiskattachmentAteco#803plaintip(5/16-inch/0.8cmdiameter)

INGREDIENTSEGGSHELLSWholeeggs(large,inwhiteshells) 12each 12each

Wholeeggs(large,inwhiteshells) 12each 12each

Nonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded

SOFTCARAMELHeavycream 3/4cup 160grams

Lightcornsyrup 1/3cup 100gramsDarkbrownsugar 2tablespoons 24grams

Granulatedsugar 1/4cup 51grams

Fleurdesel 1/4teaspoon 2grams

MARSHMALLOWPowderedgelatin 4teaspoons 12grams

Water 1/2cup+2tablespoons 125gramsGranulatedsugar 1cup 205grams

Lightcornsyrup 1/3cup 101grams

Honey 2tablespoons 32grams

Water 1/4cup+1/2tablespoon 75grams

ASSEMBLYYellowsandingsugar 1/3cup 60gramsDarkchocolate,finelychoppedandtightlypacked(fordecoration)

1tablespoon 10grams

PREPAREEGGSHELLS

1.Usingeggscissors,removethenarrowpointoftheeggshells.Makesuretoremoveanysmallfragmentsasyoucut.Emptytheeggs(youcansavetheyolksandwhitesforanotherrecipeorforbreakfastthenextday).Carefullypeelawayanddiscardtheinsidemembranefromtheeggshell.

2.Fillalargepothalfwaywithwaterandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Layoutpapertowelsontheworksurface.

3.Gentlyplacetheemptyeggshellsintotheboilingwaterandletthemsimmerfor1minute.Carefullyremovetheshellswithaslottedspoon.Placetheshellsholedownonthepapertowelstodrainoutanyexcesswater.Lettheshellscoolcompletely.

4.Lightlycoattheinsideoftheeggshellswithnonstickspray.Rubthesprayevenlyovertheinterioroftheshellswithyourfingertomakesurethesurfaceiscovered.Thiswillhelpensurethatthemarshmallowdoesnotsticktotheshell.Reservetheshellsinacleaneggcartonuntilreadytofill.1

MAKESOFTCARAMEL

1.Combinethecream,cornsyrup,andbrownsugarinasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandsetaside,keepingitwarm.

2.Placeanemptymediumpotoverhighheat.Whenthepotishot,sprinkleathin,evenlayerofgranulatedsugarintothepot.Asthesugarmeltsandcaramelizes,slowlywhiskintherestofthesugar,onesmallhandfulatatime,untilallthesugarhasbeenadded.2

3.Whenallofthesugarhascaramelizedandturneddeepamber,slowlystreaminone-thirdofthehotcream,whiskingconstantly.Becareful!Thecreammightcausethecarameltosplatter.Whenincorporated,whiskinthenextthird,andthenthelast.3Whenallofthecreamhasbeenadded,turndowntheheattolowandcontinuetowhiskthecarameluntilitreaches221°F(105°C),4to5minutes.Removefromtheheat,whiskinthefleurdesel,pourintoamediumheatproofbowl,andletcoolcompletely.

4.Whenthecaramelhascooled,stirwelltoreemulsifyanyfatthatmayhaveseparated.Fillapipingbagwiththecaramelandrefrigerateuntilneeded.

MAKEMARSHMALLOW

1.Sprinklethegelatinoverthewaterinasmallbowl.Stirandletsitforabout20minutestobloom.

2.Combinethegranulatedsugar,cornsyrup,honey,andwaterinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Cookwithoutstirringuntilthesyrupreaches248°F(120°C).4

3.Carefullypourthehotsyrupintoastandmixerfittedwithawhiskandaddthebloomedgelatin.Letitcoolfor5minutes,untilwarm.Thenwhiponlowspeeduntilcombined.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandcontinuetowhipfor4to6minutes.Themixturewillturnwhiteandquadrupleinvolume.Whenthemarshmallowisfirmenoughtoholdapeak,stopwhipping.

4.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#803plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofmarshmallowinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemarshmallowdowntowardthetipofthebag.Removethecaramel-filledpipingbagfromtherefrigeratorandcutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.

ASSEMBLECHICKS

1.Workingasquicklyaspossible,assemblethechicksoneatatime.Whilethemarshmallowisstillwarm,pipeitintoaneggshelltofillitthree-quartersfull.

Setthepipingbagwithmarshmallowaside.Pipeacherry-sizedollopofthesoftcaramelintothecenterofthemarshmallow.Pickupthemarshmallow-filledpipingbagandfilltheeggshelltothebrim.Then,holdingthetip3/4to1inch(2cm)abovetheegg,pipeamarshmallowteardropontop,pullingthetipawayasyoufinish.Thiswillformasmallbeakforthechick.5Immediatelysprinklewithyellowsandingsugartocoverallexposedareasofthemarshmallow.Continuefillingtheremainingeggshellsoneatatime.Refillyourpipingbagwithmarshmallowasnecessary.6

2.Meltasmallamountofdarkchocolateinthemicrowave.Mixitgently,makingsureitisnottoohot.Pourthechocolateintothethirdpipingbagortheparchmentpapercornetandcutaverysmallopeningacrossthetip,aboutthesizeofthetipofapen.Pipe2smalldotsontoeachchick’sheadfor“eyes.”Letsetatroomtemperatureforatleast1hourbeforeserving.

1.Trytoavoidgettinganynonsticksprayontheoutsideoftheeggshelltokeepitclean.

2.Thismethodofcookingsugariscalleda“drycaramel”becauseitstartswithadrypanandnowater. When caramel starts with water, it is called a “wet caramel.” I prefer the dry versionbecauseitallowsyoumorecontroloverthecaramelization.

3.Awhiskwillworkwellhere,but ifyouhaveahandblender,usingthiswill reemulsifythefatquicklyandgivethecaramelasmootherconsistency.

4.Thisisthetemperatureatwhichsugarreachesthe“softball”stage.Itwillholdashapewithoutbecominghardandbrittle.

5.Ifthemarshmallowstartstocoolandset,microwaveitinthebagfor5to10seconds.

6.Ifyouwaittoolongtosprinklethesandingsugar,itwillnotsticktothemarshmallow.Speedisveryimportantatthisstage.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServeatroomtemperature.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Marshmallow chicks can be kept in a closed airtightcontainerat roomtemperature forupto1week.Leftovermarshmallowcanbespread onto a sheet pan and cut into squares for Hot Chocolate (page 110).Leftovercaramelcanlastfor7daysintherefrigeratorandbeusedforParis–NewYork(page145),AppleMarshmallow(page162),orChocolateCaviarTart(page184).

VANILLAICECREAM

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...atthestartofeverysummersothatIcaneatotherdessertsàlamodethroughouttheseason.

SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME2hoursYIELDAbout1quart (1 liter);15to20smallscoops

SPECIALTOOLS

Instant-readthermometerMediumsieveIcecreammachine

INGREDIENTS

Wholemilk 21/4cups 530grams

Heavycream 3/4cups 169grams

Vanillabeans(preferablyTahitian),splitlengthwise,seedsscraped

2each 2each

Granulatedsugar 3/4cup 154grams

Eggyolks(large) 5each 5each(100grams)

1.Combinethemilk,cream,andvanillapodsandseedsinamediumpot.Starttowarmthemixtureoverlowheat.

2.Whiskthesugarandeggyolkstogetherinamediumbowluntilfullycombined.

3.Whenthemilkmixturereaches95°F(35°C)orfeelsjustwarmtothetouch,removefromtheheat.Streamone-thirdintotheyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totempertheyolks.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremainingwarmmilk.Returnthepottolowheat.

4.Whiskingconstantly,cooktheicecreambaseoverlowheatuntilitreaches185°F(85°C)orfeelsveryhottothetouchandbecomesthickenoughtocoatthebackofaspoon.1

5.Removefromtheheat.Straintheicecreambasethroughamediumsieveintoaquartcontainer.

6.Fillalargebowlwithiceandwater.Placethecontaineroficecreambaseintheicebath.Stirwithawhiskevery10minutes,untilchilled.Thisstopsthebasefromcontinuingtocook.

7.Whenthebasehascooled,pouritintotheicecreammachineandchurnaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.

8.Whenfinishedchurning,transfertheicecreamtoanairtightcontainer.Allowtheicecreamtohardeninthefreezerforatleast1hourbeforeserving.

1.Whenacustardreachesthisconsistency,it’scallednappé,whichmeans“glazed”inFrench.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSIlikemyvanillaicecreamplainortoppedwithMiniMe’s(page116)!

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSIcecreamcanbekeptinthefreezerforupto1week.

APPLETARTTATIN

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseit’s80percentgorgeous,juicyfruit.

SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME20minutesonedaybefore;2hoursthedayofYIELD6individual3-inch(7.5cm)tartsor1large8-inch(20cm)tart

TIMELINE

ONE DAY BEFOREMakedoughTHE DAY OFBake sablé cookies;makecaramelizedapples;assemble

SPECIALTOOLS

StandmixerwithwhiskandpaddleattachmentsRulerSix3-inch(7.5cm)roundcakepansorone8-inch(20cm)roundcakepanCandythermometer

VegetablepeelerApplecorer

INGREDIENTSSABLÉBRETONCOOKIES

SABLÉBRETONCOOKIESEggyolks(large) 2each 2each(40grams)

Granulatedsugar 61/2tablespoons 85grams

Saltedbutter(84%butterfat) 41/2tablespoons 65grams

All-purposeflour 3/4cup 90gramsBakingpowder 11/2teaspoons 5grams

Koshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram

CARAMELIZEDAPPLESGranulatedsugar 2/3cup 137grams

Water 1/4cup+11/2tablespoons 60grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),cutinsmalldice

3tablespoons 35grams

HoneycrisporGalaapples 7for6individualtarts; 8foralargetart

Crèmefraîche(forserving,optional)

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEDOUGH

1.Combinetheeggyolksandgranulatedsugarinastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeedfor2to3minutesuntilthemixturebecomeslightandfluffy.

2.Soften(butdon’tmelt!)thebutterinthemicrowave.Reducethemixerspeedtolowandmixinthebutter.

3.Removethebowlfromthemixer.Usingarubberspatula,foldintheflour,bakingpowder,andsalt.Mixjustuntiltheflourisincorporated,makingsuretoscrapedownthesidesofthebowlwitharubberspatula.Thedoughshouldbefirmyetpliable.

4.Onapieceofparchmentpaper,drawarectanglealittlelargerthan6by9inches(15by23cm)withapencilifmakingindividualtarts,oran8-inch(20cm)squareifmakingalargetart.Fliptheparchmentoverontheworksurface.Transferthedoughtothecenteroftheoutline.Withanoffsetspatulaoryourfingers,shapeitintoasquare1/4inch(6mm)thick.Coverwithanotherpieceofparchment.Usingarollingpinwithsteady,evenpressure,pushthedoughfromthemiddleoutwardtotheedgesoftheoutline.Whenthedoughisrolledevenlyandfitstheoutline,placeonasheetpan,stillbetweenthetwopiecesofparchment,andrefrigerateovernighttorest.

THEDAYOF

BAKESABLÉCOOKIES

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.

2.Removethesablédoughfromtherefrigeratorandpeeloffthetoplayerofparchment.Usingacakepanasaguide,tracearoundtherimwithaparingknifeandcutout6individualcookiesor1largecookie.Removetheexcessdough.Transferthesablécookiestothesheetpan.

3.Bakethesablécookiesonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilthesablécookiesturngoldenbrown.Thesinglelargecookiemighttakealittlelonger.Transferthesablécookies,stillontheparchmentpaper,tocool.

MAKECARAMELIZEDAPPLES

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.

2.Combinethegranulatedsugarandwaterinamediumpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Cookwithoutstirringuntilthecaramelreaches350°F(175°C)andturnsadarkamber.

3.Whiskthebutterintothecaramel.Becareful!Thebutterwillfoamandthecaramelwillriseinthepot.Continuetowhiskuntilallthebutterhasbeenincorporatedandthecaramelissmooth.

4.Dividethecaramelequallyamongthecakepans.Itshouldfilleachpanabout3/8inch(1cm)deep.

5.Peelandcoretheapples.Ifmakingindividualtarts,slice1appleinto6segments.Place1wholeappleintoeachsmallpan.Push1segmentintothecenterofeachwholeapple.Foralargetart,place1wholeappleinthecenterofthelargepan.Cut6applesinhalfverticallyandplacethehalves,standingup,inacirclearoundthewholeapple.Slicetheremainingappleinto6segmentsandfillthespacesbetweenapples.

6.Transferthecakepanstoasheetpanandbakeonthecenterrackfor30minutes.Removefromtheovenandgentlypresseachappledownwithanoffsetspatula.Returntheapplestotheoven.Repeatthisprocess3or4moretimes.Whenfinished,theappleswillhavelosthalfoftheirsizeandturnedadarkamber.Alightskinwillhaveformedontopoftheapple,whichwillbecomethebottomwhenunmolded.

7.Letthecaramelizedapplescooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateforanhourforthecarameltosetandthicken.

ASSEMBLE

1.Tounmoldtheapples,warmtheoutsideandbottomofthepanbyplacingitdirectlyonthestovetopovermediumheatfor30seconds.(Alternatively,placeitintheovenat350°F[175°C]for3minutes.)Usingasmalloffsetspatulaorafork,gentlypulltheapplesawayfromtheedgeofthemold.

2.Inverteachpanandslidetheappleontoasablécookie.Serveimmediately.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Servewarmor at room temperature.A dollopof crèmefraîcheisagreataccompaniment.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Assembled tarts should be consumed the day of.Caramelizedapplescanbekept inaclosedairtightcontainer in the refrigeratorfor 2 days. Sablé Breton cookies can be kept in an airtight container at roomtemperatureforupto5days.

THEPURPLETART

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...duringthefallmonthswhengorgeousstonefruitsappearinthefarmers’markets.

SKILLLEVELBeginnerTIME3hours15minutesYIELD6individualtarts

SPECIALTOOLS

StandmixerwithapaddleattachmentSix3-inch(7.5cm)tartringsorone8-inch(20cm)tartring1

UncutpipingbagSmalloffsetspatula(optional)

INGREDIENTSBLACKBERRYPASTRYCREAMWholemilk 1/2cup+3tablespoons 146grams

Blackberries,puréed 1cup 135grams

Eggyolks(large) 4each 4each(80grams)

Cornstarch 2/3cup+3tablespoons 60gramsGranulatedsugar 1/3cup+2tablespoons 94grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),cutinsmalldice

4tablespoons 55grams

POACHEDPLUMSANDCURRANTSCrèmedecassis 1/4cup 50grams

Granulatedsugar 1cup 250gramsWater 11/2cups+5tablespoons 300grams

Elderflowerliqueur 1/3cups 80grams

Plums,peeled 5or6 5or6

Blackcurrants 2cups 300grams

VANILLASABLÉTARTSHELLDOUGHUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 9tablespoons 127gramsConfectioners’sugar 1/2cup+2tablespoons 81grams

Vanillabeans(preferablyTahitian),splitlengthwise,seedsscraped

1bean 1bean

Wholeegg(large) 1each 1each(50grams)

All-purposeflour 11/4cups,plusmoreasneededfordusting

165grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting

Cornstarch 1/3cup+1tablespoon 47gramsAlmondflour 1/3cup 30grams

Koshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram

Blackberries,whole 12each 12each

MAKEPASTRYCREAM

1.Combinethemilkandpuréedblackberriesinamediumpotandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Whisktheeggyolks,cornstarch,andgranulatedsugartogetherinasmallheatproofbowl.

2.Whenthemilkandberriescometoasimmer,removefromtheheat.Streamone-thirdintotheeggyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedyolksintothehotmilkandberriesandreturnthepottomedium-lowheat.Continuetocookthepastrycreamovermedium-lowheat,whiskingconstantly.Thepastrycreamwillbecomeverythick,similartocustard,andstarttobubble;cookforanadditional3minutes.Removefromtheheat.Whiskinthebutteruntilfullyincorporated.

3.Lineasheetpanorshallowbowlwithplasticwrap.(Themorespreadoutthepastrycreamis,thefasteritwillcool.)Spreadthepastrycreamontheplasticwrap.Coverthepastrycreamwithanotherpieceofplasticwrappressed

directlyagainstthesurfacetopreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateuntilcompletelycooled,about30minutes.

POACHPLUMSANDCURRANTS

1.Combinethecrèmedecassis,granulatedsugar,water,andelderflowerliqueurinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat,thenlowertheheattoasimmer.Addtheplums.Cutaroundofparchmentpapertofitinsidethepotandmakeasmallholeinthecenteroftheround;placeitontopoftheplumstohelpthemsteamandpoachevenly.

2.Whentheplumsarefork-tender,addthecurrantsandsimmerjustuntiltheybegintoburst,1to2minutes.2

3.Removepotfromtheheatandletcoolatroomtemperature.Keeptheplumsinthepoachingliquid.Theywillcontinuetoabsorbflavorfromtheliquidastheysit.

MAKEANDBAKETARTSHELL

1.Creamthebutter,confectioners’sugar,andvanillabeanseedsfor30secondsonmediumspeedinastandmixerfittedwithapaddle.Addtheegg,scrapedownthesidesofthebowlwitharubberspatula,andmixonmediumspeeduntilsmooth.

2.Combinetheall-purposeflour,cornstarch,almondflour,andsaltinamediumbowl.Withthemixeronlowspeed,stirintheflouruntiljustcombined,about10secondsmore.

3.Liberallyflourtheworksurfaceandarollingpin.Transferthedoughtotheworksurfaceandrollitoutintoarectangleabout1/4inch(6mm)thick.Placeonasheetpanandlooselycoverwithplasticwrap.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

4.Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator.Usingatartringasaguide,cut6circles1inch(2.5cm)widerthantheoutsideofthering,sothatthedoughroundswillbebigenoughtocomeupthesidesoftherings.

5.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandplacethetartringsevenlyspacedonthepan.Placeadoughroundontopofeachring.Pushdowngentlywithyourfingersandpressthedoughalongtheinsideofthering.Useaparingknifetotrimexcessdoughhangingovertheedgeofthering.Returntotherefrigeratortochillforabout30minutes.

6.Whilethetartshellsarechilling,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.

7.Bakethetartshellsonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilthetartshellsaregoldenbrown.

8.Unmoldthetartshellswhilestillwarm.Letcoolcompletelyatroomtemperature.

ASSEMBLE

1.Whiskthepastrycreamuntilsmooth.Transferthepastrycreamtoapipingbagandsetaside.

2.Removetheplumsandcurrantsfromthepoachingliquidwithaslottedspoon.Drainthefruitsonpapertowels;theyarereadywhennomoreliquidrunsfromthem.Cuttheplumsinhalfverticallywithaparingknife.Removethepitsandsliceeachhalfintofourevenwedges.Setaside.

3.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbag.Pipeasmallamountofpastrycreamtocoverthebaseofeachtartshell.Ifyouhaveone,useasmalloffsetspatulatolevelthepastrycreamsothatitisperfectlyflat.

4.Cuttheblackberriesinhalfvertically.Arrangetheblackberries,plumslices,andcurrantsdecorativelyontopofthepastrycreamsothatitiscompletelycovered.3

5.Refrigeratethetartsuntilyouarereadytoserve.

1.Ifyouwouldlikealargerorsmallertart,feelfreetousedifferentsizetartrings.Thisrecipealsomakes1large8-inch(20cm)tart.

2.Poachingtimewillvarydependingontheripenessoftheplums.Iftheplumsareveryripe,afteryouaddthemtothepoachingliquidyoucanjustcoverthemandturnofftheheat.Iftheplumsareunderripe,simmeruntiltender.

3. When arranging the fruits, it is important to show as many angles and cross-sections aspossible.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServechilledstraightfromtherefrigerator.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS The tarts should be consumed the day they are built.Leftover passion fruit curd can be kept in a closed airtight container in therefrigerator forupto2days.Leftover tart shellscanbekept inaclosedairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.

INTERMEDIATERECIPES

CANNELÉDEBORDEAUX

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...toshowcaseskillandpatiencewhencreatingtheperfect3:00pmsnack.

SKILL LEVEL Intermediate TIME 20 minutes one day before (plus 45 minutes ifusingbrand-newcannelémolds);1hour30minutesthedayofYIELD10mediumcannelés(about23/4ounces/80gramseach)

TIMELINE

ONEDAYBEFORESeasonmolds;makebatterTHEDAYOFBake

SPECIALTOOLS

10cannelémolds2inchestallby2inchesdiameter(5cmtallby5cmdiameter)Pastrybrush(optional)

WirerackInstant-readthermometer(recommended)

INGREDIENTS

Beeswax(forthemolds) asneeded asneeded

Wholemilk 11/2cups 352grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 3tablespoons 42gramsVanillabean(preferablyTahitian),splitlengthwise,seedsscraped

1/2each 1/2each

Eggyolks(large) 3each 3each(60grams)

Darkrum 3tablespoons 38grams

All-purposeflour 1/2cup+2tablespoons 94grams

Granulatedsugar 3/4cup+2tablespoons 180gramsKoshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram

PURCHASING,PREPARING,ANDCARINGFORCANNELÉMOLDS

•Thereareseveraloptionswhenpickingoutcannelémolds,butIwouldrecommendusingcoppermolds.Copperconductsheatextremelywellandensuresacrispyexteriorandmoistflan-likeinteriorasthecannelésbake.

•Ifyouareusingcoppercannelémoldsforthefirsttime,itisimportanttoseasonthemproperly.Thetraditionalwayistousebeeswax.Preheattheovento400°F(205°C)forconventionalor375°F(190°C)forconvection.Meltbeeswaxinthemicrowavein30-secondintervals.Brushtheinsideofthemoldswithmeltedwaxandplacethemonasheetpanintheovenfor10minutes.Removeandinvertonawirerackoverasheetpantoletexcesswaxdrainout.Whenthemoldscool,repeatthisprocessthreemoretimes.Seasoningthemoldsinthismannerensuresthatyourcanneléswillhaveashinyandsmoothexterior.Italsopreventsthemfromstickingtothemolds.Ideally,thisprocessshouldberepeatedeachtimeyoubakecannelés,butitcanbedoneeveryothertimeafterthefirstfivebakesifthecannelésareunmoldingeasily.

•Beeswaxcangenerallybefoundatspecialtystoresoronlineatseveralretailers.Itcomesinblocksorchips.Irecommendchipssimplybecausetheyareeasiertomelt;otherwisetheyarethesame.

•Coppercannelémoldsdonotneedtobewashed.Toclean,wipewithadrytowel.

ONEDAYBEFORESEASONMOLDS

Preparecannelémoldsinthemethoddescribedabove.

MAKEBATTER

1.Combinethemilk,butter,andvanillabeanpodandseedsinamediumpot.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandletcooltoabout100°F(38°C),orlukewarmtothetouch.1

2.Whisktheeggyolksintothemilkmixture.Whentheyhavebeenincorporated,whiskintherum.

3.Whisktheflour,sugar,andsalttogetherinamediumbowl.Whiskinthewarmmilkone-thirdatatime,scrapingdownthesidesandbottomofthebowlbetweenadditions.Someairbubbleswillform,butkeepthesetoaminimum.Whenfinished,thebatterwillhavetheconsistencyofheavycream.2

4.Strainthebatterthroughamediumsieveintoanairtightcontainer.Beforeclosing,coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthebatter,topreventaskinfromforming.Pressthelidoftheairtightcontainerontightly.Refrigerateovernighttorestthebatter.

THEDAYOFBAKE

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento450°F(230°C)forconventionalor425°F(220°C)forconvection.

2.Warmthemoldsintheovenfor15minutesbeforefilling.Preheatingthemoldshelpsensurethatthecanneléswillhaveacrunchy,caramelizedexterior.

3.Brushthemoldswithathinlayerofmeltedbeeswax.(Toomuchwaxwillcausethemixturetospilloutofthemoldduringthebakingprocess.)Gentlymixthebattertoreincorporateingredientsthatmayhavesettledovernight.Becarefulnottoovermix,oryouriskincorporatingtoomuchairintothebatter.Themoreuniformthebatteris,thebetterthefinalproductwillbe.

4.Filleachmoldtoabout1/4inch(6mm)fromthetop,about23/4ounces(80grams)ofbattereach.Whenthecannelébakes,itwillriseslightly,thensink,soitisimportanttoleaveasmallspacetoaccountforthisrise.

5.Placethemoldsonasheetpanandbakeonthecenterrackfor20minutes.Rotatethepan180degrees,reducetheoventemperatureto350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection,andbakefor35to45minutesmore.3

6.Letthecannelés,stillintheirmolds,coolfor10minutes.Turnthecannelémoldsupsidedownandgentlytapthetopuntilthecannelédropsoutontothewirerack.Letcoolcompletelybeforeserving.

1.Usinga thermometerwill result inamoreconsistent finalproduct,butyoucanalso test thetemperatureofthemilkmixturewithyourfinger:toocoldandthebutterwillcongeal;toohotandtheeggyolkswillstarttocook.

2.Avoidoverwhiskingthebattersinceincorporatingtoomuchairwillresultindrycannelés.

3.Bakingtimescanvarydependingonyouroven.Keepaneyeonthecannelés’colorduringtheirfinalminutes toensure theydonotover-orunderbake.Thebottomof thecanneléshould turnadeepmaplesyrupcolorwhenfinished.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSEatwhencooledtoroomtemperature.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSAcanneléisbesteatenthedayitisbaked.However,thebattercanbekeptinaclosedairtightcontainer,withplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurface,intherefrigeratorforupto5days.

VANILLARELIGIEUSE

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...andthebestpartisdecoratingit.

SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME3hours

YIELD12religieuses

SPECIALTOOLS

Ruler2-inch(5cm)ringcutter11/2-inch(4cm)ringcutter2uncutpipingbagsAteco#804plaintip(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter)Standmixerwithwhiskattachment

Ateco#802plaintip(1/4-inch/0.64cmdiameter)

INGREDIENTS

Pâteàchouxdough(page118),unbaked 2batches 2batches

VANILLAWHIPPEDGANACHE

Gelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1each 1each

Vanillabean 1/2each 1/2each

Heavycream 11/2cups 364gramsWhitechocolatechips 1/2cup+2tablespoons 81grams

CHOUXCRUSTUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 5tablespoons+2teaspoons 72grams

Lightbrownsugar,tightlypacked 1/3cup+2tablespoons 89grams

All-purposeflour 1/2cup+2tablespoons 89grams

GLAZEANDDECORATIONGlazingfondant2 11/2cups 500gramsFoodcoloring(optional) asneeded asneeded

Water asneeded asneeded

Decorationofyourchoice asneeded asneeded

MAKEGANACHE

1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1teaspoon(2.3grams)over1tablespoon(15grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Usingaparingknife,slicethevanillabeaninhalflengthwiseandaddtheseedstothecreaminasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.

3.Whenthecreamreachesaboil,immediatelyremovethepotfromtheheat.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.

4.Placethewhitechocolatechipsinamediumheatproofbowl.Removethevanillabeanfromthehotcreamandpourthecreamoverthechips.Letstandfor30seconds.

5.Whiskthewhitechocolateandhotcreamuntilsmooth.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigeratetochillwhileyoumakethechoux.3

MAKECHOUXCRUST

1.Stirtogetherthebutterandbrownsugarwitharubberspatulainasmallbowl.Blenduntiltherearenolongeranystreaksofbutter.Addtheflourandmixuntiljustcombined.

2.Placethedoughbetweentwopiecesofparchmentpaperontheworksurface.Usingarollingpin,rolloutthedoughtoarectanglealittlelargerthan13by6inches(33by15cm).Transferthedough,stillbetweenthe

piecesofparchmentpaper,toahalfsheetpanandfreezeuntilcompletelyfirm,about30minutes.

3.Cut12circlesusinga2-inch(5cm)ringcutterandanother12circleswitha11/2-inch(4cm)ringcutter.Removeanyexcessdough.Coverthesheetpanlooselywithplasticwrapandrefrigeratethecrustcirclesuntilneeded.

MAKEANDBAKECHOUXCRUSTANDDOUGH

1.Make2batchesofpâteàchouxdough,page118.2.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingarubber

spatula,place2largescoopsofpâteàchouxdoughinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthedoughdowntowardthetipofthebag.

3.Usethe2-inch(5cm)ringcuttertotrace12circlesinpencilabout21/2inches(6cm)apartonapieceofparchmentpaper.Fliptheparchmentoversothechouxdoughwon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarksandplaceitonahalfsheetpan.Trace12circlesonanotherpieceofparchmentwiththe11/2-inch(4cm)ringcutter,about2inches(5cm)apart,andflipthatparchmentontoasecondhalfsheetpan.

4.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout5/8inch(11/2cm)abovethepan,filltheoutlineswithchouxdough,pullingthetipupslightlyasyoupipetocreateaslightlydomedshape.Repeatuntilalltheoutlinesoneachpanarefilled.

5.Placeacircleofchouxcrustontopofeachpipedchoux,matchingthesizes.Pressdownslightlytomakesurethecrustadherestothechoux.Leavethechouxtodryfor30minutesatroomtemperaturebeforebaking.

6.Whilethechouxaredrying,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.

7.Bakethechouxonthecenterrackfor15minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor15minutesmore.Whenfinished,thechouxwillbegoldenbrownandfeellighttothetouch;inside,theyshouldbemostlyhollow.Letthechoux,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.

WHIPGANACHE

1.Transfertheganachetoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeeduntilstiffpeaksform.4

2.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#802plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofganacheinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthepipingbag.

ASSEMBLE

1.Pokethetipofthepipingbagfilledwithganacheintothebottomofachouxandpipeganacheintothechoux.Whenfinished,thechouxshouldfeelheavyforitssize.Fillallthechouxandsetthemasideonapieceofparchmentpaper.

2.Combinethefondant,yourchoiceoffoodcoloring,andasmallamountofwaterinasmallheatproofbowl.Fillasmallpotwithabout2inches(5cm)waterandbringittoasimmer.Placethebowlsnuglyoverthewater.Warmtheglazeuntilitreachesbodytemperature.Itshouldbefluid—youmayneedtoaddalittlebitmorewatertobringittothecorrectconsistency.

3.Toglazethechoux,dipthetopone-thirdofeachofthelargerchouxintothefondantandpullthechouxstraightupoutofthefondant,lettinganyexcessdripoff.Turnthechouxglazedsideupandreturnittotheparchmentpaper.Repeatthisprocesswiththesmallchoux,balancingthemontopofthelargerchouxwhilethefondantisstillwarm.Decorateasyouseefit.Refrigerateuntilthefondantiscompletelyset.

1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

2.Glazingfondantisalsoknownas“fondanticing”or“pastryfondant.”Itissimilartoroyalicingbutremainsshinywhenitsets.

3.Creamwhipsbetterwhencold,whichiswhyit’simportanttoworkwithchilledganache.

4.Makesuretheganacheiscoolbeforeyouwhip.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONSLet thereligieuses sitout for5minutesbefore serving tosoftentheganache.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONSReligieuses can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 24hours. Leftover pâte à choux can be kept in a closed airtight container in therefrigerator for up to 4 days. Leftover ganache can be kept in a closed airtightcontainerintherefrigeratorfor2days.

COTTON-SOFTCHEESECAKE

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...it’scheesecakeforpeoplewhodon’tusuallylikecheesecake.

SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME2hours

YIELD10individual3-inch(7.5cm)cheesecakesor1large8-inch(20cm)cake

SPECIALTOOLS

Siliconebakingmattofitthequartersheetpan(optional)Ruler(optional)StandmixerwithwhiskattachmentTen3-inch(7.5cm)metalringmolds1

WhiskUncutpipingbagAteco#805plaintip(7/16-inch/1.1cmdiameter)Blowtorch

INGREDIENTSALMONDBISCUITEggwhites(large) 3each 3each(90grams)

Nonstickcookingspray(optional) asneeded asneeded

Confectioners’sugar 1/3cup 45grams

Almondflour 1/2cup 45grams

Wholeegg(large) 1each 1each(30grams)Eggyolk(large) 1each 1each(20grams)

All-purposeflour,sifted 1/3cup 36grams

Granulatedsugar 21/2tablespoons 33grams

CHEESECAKEMOUSSEHeavycream 1/3cup+1tablespoon 85grams

Gelatinsheet(160bloom)2 1/2each 1/2eachGranulatedsugar 1/3cup+1tablespoon 80grams

Lemonjuice 2tablespoons 26grams

Whole-milkricottacheese 21/4cups 528grams

Granulatedsugar(tobrûlée) asneeded asneeded

MAKEALMONDBISCUIT

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento380°F(195°C)forconventionalor355°F(180°C)forconvection.Lineaquartersheetpanwithasiliconebakingmatorparchmentpaper.3

2.Combinetheconfectioners’sugar,almondflour,andwholeegginastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Beatonlowspeeduntilcombined,scrapingthesidesandbottomofthebowlwitharubberspatula.Turnthespeedtohighandmixfor1minutemore.Thebatterwillbecomepaleyellowandfluffy.

3.Removethebowlfromthemixer.Usingtherubberspatula,foldintheeggyolk.Whentheyolkiscompletelyincorporated,carefullyfoldintheall-purposeflour.Overmixingthebatteratthisstagewillresultinatoughbiscuit.Transferthebattertoamediumbowl.

4.Washanddrythemixerbowlandwhisk,makingsuretheyarecleanandfreeofanyresidue.Placetheeggwhitesinthemixerbowl.Whiptheeggwhitesonmediumspeeduntilfrothy.Withthemixerstillonmedium,slowlystreaminone-thirdofthegranulatedsugarandcontinuetowhipuntilthesugarisincorporated.Whipintheremainingsugarintwoadditions.4

5.Withtherubberspatula,foldone-thirdofthemeringueintothebatter.Onceincorporated,addtheremainingmeringue,foldinggentlytoavoiddeflatingthebatter.Whenfinished,thebatterwillbecream-colored,andyouwillseebubblesonitssurface.

6.Pourthebatterontothemiddleofthequartersheetpan.Usingthespatula,spreadthebattertofillthepan.(Ifyouareusingalargersheetpan,spreadit

tofilltheoutlineoftherectangle.)Overworkingthebatteratthispointwillresultinatoughbiscuit.Trytospreadthebatterasquicklyandevenlyaspossible.Whenfinished,thebiscuitshouldbeabout1/2inch(1.25cm)thick.

7.Bakethebiscuitonthecenterrackfor5minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor5minutesmore.Whenfinished,thebiscuitwillbelightbrownandwillspringbackwhentouchedinthecenter.

8.Letthebiscuit,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.9.Invertontoanotherpieceofparchmentandcarefullypeelofftheoriginal

parchmentpaper.Usinga3-inch(7.5cm)ringmoldasaguide,cut10circlesofbiscuitjustslightlysmallerthantheringmold.Coverwithplasticwrapandsetasideuntilneeded.5

MAKECHEESECAKEMOUSSE

1.Whiskthecreaminamediumbowluntilitdoublesinvolumeandholdsastiffpeak.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.6

2.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1/2teaspoon(1.5grams)gelatinover11/2teaspoons(7.5grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.Squeezeanyexcesswateroutofthegelatinsheet.7

3.Combinethesugarandlemonjuiceinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheattofullydissolvethesugar.Removefromtheheatandaddthebloomedgelatin.Whiskuntilthegelatinisfullydissolved.Setthesyrupaside,keepingitwarm.

4.Gentlywhiskthericottainanothermediumbowltobreakupanylargelumps.Slowlywhiskthewarmlemonsyrupintothericottauntilfullyblended.

5.Withtherubberspatula,gentlyfoldone-thirdofthewhippedcreamintothericottasoasnottodeflatethecream.Foldintheremainingtwo-thirdsofthewhippedcream.Whenfinished,thecheesecakemixturewillhaveauniformconsistencysimilartoyogurt.

6.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#805plaintip.Twistthebottomofthebagaroundthetiptopreventthecheesecakemoussefromspillingout.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofcheesecakemousseinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.

ASSEMBLEANDBRÛLÉE

1.Linethesheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Placeten3-inch(7.5cm)ringmoldsonthesheetpan.Placeacircleofalmondbiscuitinthecenterofeach

mold.Holdingthepipingbagabout1inch(2.5cm)abovethecenterofthealmondbiscuit,pipeinthecheesecakemoussetofillthemold.Whenitisfilledtothetop,slowlyliftthepipingbagawaywhilestillpiping.Thiswillhelpgivethecheesecakeadome-liketop.Repeatuntilallthemoldsarefilled.Freezeuntilcompletelysolid,2to3hours.

2.Removethecheesecakesfromthefreezer.Warmthemoldsbyrubbingyourhandsaroundthesidesuntilthecheesecakesslideout.Putthemallbackinthefreezerforafewminutes.Takeonlyoneortwooutofthefreezeratatimeandplacetheunmoldedcheesecakesonawirerackorasheetpan.8

3.Sprinkleathin,evenlayerofgranulatedsugarontopofacheesecake.Holdingtheblowtorchabout1inch(2.5cm)awayfromthecake,caramelizethesugarwithafocused,highflame(thisisverysimilartomakingcrèmebrûlée).Whenthefirstlayerofsugariscompletelycaramelized,sprinkle2teaspoons(10g)moregranulatedsugaronthecaramelizedsurfaceandbrûléeagain.Repeatthissteponemoretimeforatotalofthreelayers.Repeatwiththeremainingcheesecakes.9

4.Whenallthecheesecakeshavebeenbrûléed,placethemintherefrigeratortothawcompletely,2to3hours.

1.Ifyouwouldlikealargerorsmallercake,feelfreetousedifferentsizeringmolds.

2. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

3.Ifyoudonothaveaquartersheetpan,drawarectangle10by8inches(25by20cm)onapieceofparchmentpaperinpencil,fliptheparchmentover,anduseittolinealargerpan.

Spraying a light coat of nonstick cooking spray on the sheet pan and then placing theparchmentoveritisagoodwayto“glue”theparchmentinplace.

4. By adding the sugar in stages, you ensure that the sugar will dissolve completely and themeringuewill retainasmuchvolumeaspossible.Whenfinished, themeringuewillbe lightandfluffyandholdasoftpeak.

5.Don’tworry ifyoucan’tcut10fullcircles inthebiscuits.Usethescrapstocreatethetenthbase;thecheesecakemoussewillholdthebiscuittogetherwhenfrozen.

6.Whippedcreamwillremainstableforupto1hour.Afterthatitstartstoseparateandneedstobewhippedagain.

7.Makesure to squeezeoutexcessmoisture from thegelatinsheet.Otherwise, you riskaddingmoisturetothecheesecake,whichwillresultinasofter-than-desiredconsistency.

8. If the cheesecakemousse is not cold enough, itwillmelt as youbrûlée the sugar.Check tomakesureit’scompletelyfrozenbeforeusingtheblowtorch.

9.Bylayeringthesugarinthisway,youcreateacaramelizedsurfacethatcanstaycrunchyevenafterseveralhoursintherefrigerator.

When caramelizing the sugar, it is important to work quickly to prevent the cheesecake frommelting.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServedirectlyfromtherefrigerator.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSThecheesecakesshouldbeconsumedwithin24hoursofthawing.Unbrûléedcheesecakescanbekeptinthefreezer,wrappedwell,forupto1week.

PARIS–NEWYORK

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...asmygo-tocrowd-pleaserbecausethecombinationofpeanutbutter,chocolate,andcaramelappealstoalmosteveryone.

SKILLLEVELIntermediate

TIME2hours30minutesonedaybefore;1hour45minutes thedayofYIELD6individualpastries

TIMELINE

ONEDAYBEFOREMakemousse,cream,softcaramel,andcaramelizedpeanutsTHE

DAYOFMakeandbakechoux;makecaramelglaze;assemble

SPECIALTOOLS

StandmixerwithwhiskattachmentInstant-readthermometerCandythermometerHandblender(recommended)4uncutpipingbags

Ateco#869openstartip(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter)23/4-inch(7cm)ringcutter3Ateco#804plaintips(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter;afewsizesupordownisfine)

INGREDIENTSDARKCHOCOLATEMOUSSEGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1/2each 1/2each

Heavycream 1/2cup 112grams

Wholemilk 1/3cup 78gramsDarkchocolate(70%cocoacontent),finelychopped

1/3cup+2tablespoons 77grams

PEANUTBUTTERCREAMGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1/2each 1/2each

Whitechocolate,finelychopped 1/4cup 34grams

Smoothpeanutbutter 1/4cup 60grams

Heavycream 1/2cup+2tablespoons 150grams

SOFTCARAMELHeavycream 7tablespoons 105grams

Darkbrownsugar 1tablespoon 12grams

Granulatedsugar 2tablespoons 25grams

CARAMELIZEDPEANUTSGranulatedsugar 2tablespoons 25grams

Water 1tablespoon 10gramsPeanuts,unsalted 1/2cup 63grams

Confectioners’sugar 1teaspoon 5grams

Groundcinnamon 1/2teaspoon 1gram

Koshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram

Pâteàchouxdough(page118),unbaked 2batches 2batches

CARAMELGLAZEGlazingfondant2 1/2cup 200grams

Softcaramel(fromabove) 1/4cup 60grams

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEMOUSSE

1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1/2teaspoon(1.5grams)gelatinover1

1/2teaspoons(7.5grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Whipthecreaminastandmixerfittedwithawhiskuntilitformsmedium-stiffpeaks.Transfertoamediumbowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigerateuntilneeded.

3.Bringthemilktoaboilinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

4.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotmilkuntilthegelatinisdissolved.

5.Placethedarkchocolateinamediumheatproofbowl.Pourthehotmilkoverthechocolateandletitstandfor30seconds.

6.Whiskthechocolateandmilkuntilsmooth.Whenfinished,theganacheshouldhavetheconsistencyofmayonnaise.Lettheganachecoolto100°F(38°C).3

7.Usingarubberspatula,foldone-thirdofthewhippedcreamintotheganacheuntiljustcombined.Foldtheremainingtwo-thirdsofthecreamintotheganacheuntilallthecreamhasbeenincorporated,foldinggentlysoasnottodeflatethecreambyovermixing.

8.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyonthesurfaceofthemousse,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateforatleast12hourstoset.

MAKECREAM

1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1/2teaspoon(1.5grams)gelatinover11/2teaspoons(7.5grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Combinethewhitechocolateandpeanutbutterinasmallbowl.3.Bringthecreamtoaboilinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromthe

heat.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.

4.Pourthehotcreamoverthewhitechocolateandpeanutbutterandletstandfor30seconds.

5.Whiskthewhitechocolate,peanutbutter,andhotcreamuntilhomogeneousandsmooth.Whenfinished,thepeanutbuttercreamwillhaveaverylooseconsistency;itwillcontinuetosetovernight.Coverwithplasticwrappressed

directlyonthesurfaceofthecream,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateforatleast12hourstoset.

MAKESOFTCARAMEL

1.Combine5tablespoonsplus1teaspoon(80grams)ofthecreamandthebrownsugarinasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandkeepwarm.

2.Placeanemptymediumpotoverhighheat.Whenthepotishot,sprinkleathin,evenlayerofgranulatedsugarintothepot.Asthesugarmeltsandcaramelizes,slowlywhiskintherestofthesugar,onesmallhandfulatatime,untilallthesugarhasbeenadded.

3.Whenallofthesugarhascaramelizedandturnedlightamberincolor,slowlystreaminone-thirdofthehotcream,whiskingconstantly.Becareful!Thecreammightcausethecarameltosplatter.Whenincorporated,whiskinthenextthird,andthenthelast.Whenallofthecreamhasbeenadded,turndowntheheattolowandcontinuetocookthecarameluntilitreaches221°F(105°C),4to5minutes.Pourintoamediumheatproofbowlandletcoolcompletely.

4.Whenthecaramelhascooled,whiskintheremaining1tablespoonplus2teaspoons(25grams)heavycream.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.4

MAKECARAMELIZEDPEANUTS

1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.2.Combinethegranulatedsugarandwaterinamediumpot.Bringtoaboil

overmediumheat.3.Meanwhile,inamediumbowl,tossthepeanutswiththeconfectioners’sugar

tocompletelycoat.4.Continuetocookthegranulatedsugaruntilitreaches248°F(120°C).Add

thepeanutsandstirtocompletelycoatinthesyrup.5.Turntheheattolow.Continuetostiruntilthesugarcrystallizesonthe

outsideofthepeanuts,about1minute.6.Removethepeanutsfromtheheatandaddthecinnamonandsalt.Stirto

coatthepeanuts.Pouroutontothesheetpanandletcoolcompletely.Whencooled,storeinanairtightcontainer.

THEDAYOFMAKEANDBAKECHOUX

1.Make2batchesofpâteàchouxdough,page118.2.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)

forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.3.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#869openstartip.Usingarubber

spatula,place2largescoopsofchouxdoughinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthedoughdowntowardthetipofthebag.5

4.Usea23/4-inch(7cm)ringcuttertotrace6circlesinpencilabout21/2inches(6cm)apartontheparchmentpaper.Fliptheparchmentoversochouxdoughwon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarksandplaceitonahalfsheetpan.

5.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout5/8inch(11/2cm)abovethepan,usetheoutlinedcirclesasyourguidetopipe6evencirclesabout3/4inch(2cm)thick.

6.Bakethechouxonthecenterrackfor15minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor15minutesmore.Whenfinished,thechouxwillbegoldenbrownandfeellighttothetouch;inside,thechouxshouldbemostlyhollow.

7.Letthechoux,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletelybeforefilling.

MAKECARAMELGLAZE

1.Combinethefondantand1/4cup(60grams)ofthesoftcaramelinasmallbowl.Warminthemicrowaveonhighpowerin20-secondintervals,stirringbetweenintervals.Whenfinishedthefondantshouldbeslightlywarm,95°to100°F(35°to38°C),andjustfluidenoughtofallbackinflatribbonsintothebowl.6

2.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthefondant,topreventaskinfromforming,andsetaside.

ASSEMBLE

1.Toglazethechoux,dipthetopone-thirdofachouxintothecaramelfondantandpullstraightupoutofthefondant,lettinganyexcessdripoff.Turnthechouxglazedsideup,returntothesheetpan,andlettheglazesetforabout5minutes.Youcanuseyourfingerstohelpspreadtheglazeevenlyoverthetopandsweepoffanyglazethatmaybedripping.Repeatforallthechoux.7

2.Whentheglazeisset,useaserratedknifetogentlyslicethechouxinhalfhorizontally.Placethebottomhalves,cutsideup,onapieceofparchmentpaperontheworksurface.

3.Cutthetipsof3pipingbagstosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingacleanrubberspatulaforeach,place2largescoopsofsoftcaramel,chocolatemousse,andpeanutbuttercreaminseparatebagssothateachbagisone-thirdfull.

4.Holdingthepipingbagofcaramelata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethechoux,pipeacircleofcarameltocovertheentiretopofthechouxcircle.

5.Holdingthepipingbagofchocolatemousseata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethecaramel,pipe5or6largeteardropsspacedevenlyaroundeachcircle.Pipelargeteardropsofthepeanutbuttercreambetweenthedropsofchocolatemousse.

6.Coverwiththeglazedtopsofthechouxshellsandpressdownslightly.7.DecoratethetopofeachParis–NewYorkwithcaramelizedpeanuts.

Refrigeratebeforeserving.

1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

2.Glazingfondantisalsoknownas“fondanticing”or“pastryfondant.”Itissimilartoroyalicingbutremainsshinywhenitsets.

3.Atthistemperature,theganachewillremainsmoothbutwon’tmeltthewhippedcream.

4.Ifthecaramelstartstoseparate,useahandblendertoquicklyreemulsifyit.

5.Usingastartipaddsextragroovestothetopsofthebakedchoux,whichallowsthemtoholdglazewithease.

6.Whenwarmingthefondant,itisimportantnottooverheatit.Thefondantshouldonlybeslightlywarmtothetouch.Overheatingthefondantwillcauseittoturndullandtocrackwhenitsets.Ifthefondantistoothick,addafewdropsofwatertothinitout.

7.Asyoudip,thefondantwillcool.Rewarmthefondantinthemicrowavein5-secondintervalsasneeded.

Whendipped,placethechouxintherefrigeratortosetthefondantmorequickly.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Let the pastry sit out for 5 minutes to temper beforeserving.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONSConsumewithin 24 hours of building. Leftovermoussecan be kept in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 days; peanutbutter cream in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 days; soft

caramel in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for5days; caramelizedpeanutsinaclosedairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforweeks;andpâteàchouxinaclosedairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto4days.

PERFECTLITTLEEGGSANDWICH

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...forasavorybreakfast.It’ssomethingInevergettiredof.

SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME20minutesonedaybefore;2hours30minutesthedayofYIELD12to15sandwiches

TIMELINE

ONE DAY BEFORE Begin brioche THE DAY OF Shape and bake brioche; bakescrambledeggs;assemble

SPECIALTOOLS

StandmixerwithdoughhookattachmentPastrybrushRimmedquartersheetpan

INGREDIENTSBRIOCHEBreadflour 21/2cups,plusmoreas

neededfordusting305grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting

Koshersalt 1teaspoon 2grams

Granulatedsugar 3tablespoons 38grams

Granulatedsugar 3tablespoons 38grams

Instantyeast 2teaspoons 5grams 

(preferablySAFGoldLabel)1

Wholeeggs(large) 4each 4each(200grams)

Wholemilk 1tablespoon 15grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),cold,cutintosmalldice

13tablespoons 183grams

Eggwash(2eggs,1pinchsalt,andadashofmilk,beatentogether)

asneeded asneeded

BAKEDSCRAMBLEDEGGSUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 31/2tablespoons 50gramsShallots,mediumdiced 3each 3each

Chives,finelychopped 1/4bunch 1/4bunch

Wholeeggs(large) 19each 19each(950grams)

Wholemilk 21/2cups 588grams

Koshersalt 2teaspoons 5gramsFreshlygroundblackpepper 1/2teaspoon 1gram

Gruyèrecheese,thinlysliced 12to15slices 12to15slices

ONEDAYBEFOREBEGINBRIOCHE

1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,sugar,yeast,andeggsinastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeeduntilthedoughformsaball.Slowlypourinthemilkandmixonlowuntilcombined.Increasethespeedtomedium-highfor8to10minutesmoretodevelopthegluten,whichwillhelpthedoughholditsstructure.Itshouldpulloffthesidesofthebowlcleanlywhenit’sready.2

2.Whenthedoughhasreachedfullglutendevelopment,addthebutter,keepingthemixeronmedium-highspeed.Mixjustuntilthebutterisincorporated.Thefinisheddoughwillbesmooth,shiny,anddeepyellow.3

3.Lightlygreaseamediumbowlwithnonstickcookingspray.Transferthedoughtothebowlandcoverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurface,topreventaskinfromforming.Proofthedoughatroomtemperatureuntildoubledinsize,about1hour30minutes.4

4.Removetheplasticwrapandpunchdownthedoughbyfoldingtheedgesintothecenter,releasingasmuchgasaspossible.Thiswillhelpstopthe

fermentationprocess.Coverthedoughagainwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurface.Refrigerateovernight.

THEDAYOFSHAPEANDBAKEBRIOCHE

1.Lightlydusttheworksurfacewithflour.Placethedoughontheworksurface.Usingaknife,dividethedoughintopiecesaboutthesizeofagolfball(13/4ounces/50gramseach).

2.Usingthepalmofyourhandandmoderatepressure,pressdownonthedoughandmoveyourhandinacircularmotiontotightentheball.(ThinkofthemotiontheydoinKarateKidfor“waxon,waxoff.”)Whenfinished,youshouldhavearollnobiggerthanyourpalm,withasmoothsurface.5

3.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Placetherollsonthepanabout4inches(10cm)apart.Lightlydrapeapieceofplasticwrapovertherolls.Placethepaninawarmspotandproofuntildoubledinsize,about2hours.6

4.Whilethedoughisrising,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.

5.Whentherollshavedoubledinsize,lightlybrushthemwitheggwash,makingsurethedoughiscompletelycoated.

6.Baketherollsonthecenterrackforabout5minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor5minutesmore.Whenfinished,therollswillbegoldenbrownandlightfortheirsize.

7.Lettherolls,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.

BAKESCRAMBLEDEGGS

1.Iftheovenwasturnedoff,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento325°F(160°C)forconventionalor300°F(150°C)forconvection.Linearimmedquartersheetpanwithparchmentpaper,lettingtheparchmenthangoverthesidesofthepan.(Thisallowsyoutolifttheeggsoutofthepanafterbaking.)2.Meltthebutterinamediumsautépan.Addthedicedshallotsandcookoverlowheatuntiltheybecometranslucentandtender.Takeyourtimeandletthemcaramelizeslowly.Spreadtheshallotsevenlyoverthepreparedsheetpan.Sprinklethechivesovertheshallots.

3.Whisktheeggs,milk,salt,andpeppertogetherinamediumbowluntilthoroughlycombined.Pourtheeggsintothesheetpan.Theyshouldcomeabout1inch(2.5cm)upthesidesofthepan.Baketheeggsonthecenter

rackfor12minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor12minutesmore,untiltheeggsspringbackwhenpushedinthecenter.

4.Lettheeggs,stillinthepan,coolatroomtemperaturefor15minutes.5.Removetheeggsfromthepanbyliftinguptheparchmentpaperoverhang.

Inverttheeggsontoacuttingboardandpeelawaytheparchmentpaper.Usingachef’sknife,cuttheeggsinto2-inch(5cm)squares.

ASSEMBLE

1.Iftheovenwasturnedoff,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento325°F(160°C)forconventionalor300°F(150°C)forconvection.

2.Usingaserratedknife,sliceeachrollinhalfhorizontally.Placethebottomhalvesoftherollsonasheetpan,placeasquareofbakedscrambledeggoneach,andtopwithasliceofGruyère.Bakeonthecenterrackoftheovenuntilthecheesemelts,about4minutes.

3.Removefromtheovenandaddthetopoftheroll.Serveimmediately.

1.Instantyeastisoftenusedfordoughswithhighersugarcontent,becausethisyeastneedslesswatertoreactandsugartendstopullwaterfromdough.Youcansubstitutethesamequantityofactivedryyeast,butyoumaygetadenserfinalproduct.

2.Agoodwaytocheckifdoughisreadyiscalledthe“windowpanetest.”Takeasmallpieceofdoughandrollitintoaball,thenslowlystretchthedoughoutfromthecenter.Iftheglutenisfullydeveloped, you shouldbe able to stretch thedough into a thin, translucent sheet. If thedoughtears,it’snotquiteready.Mixforaminuteortwomoreandtrythewindowpanetestagain.

3. When making brioche, it is very important that the dough does not overheat. If it does, thebutterwillstarttomeltandleakout,whichwillresultinadryfinishedproduct.

4.Whenproofingdoughathome,sometimesthekitchencanbetoowarm(especiallywhenthere’sother cooking happening). Try to find a spot to proof where the room temperature is not above75°F(24°C).

5. Rolling the dough this way helps improve the structure of the brioche and gives the roll asmoothexterior.

6.Here’sagoodwaytotestwhetherdoughisfullyproofed:stickyourfingerintothecenteroftheroll.Theindentationshouldfillinslowly.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServewarmandfreshoutoftheoven.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Eat the assembled sandwich immediately. The cookedeggscanbekeptintherefrigerator,wrappedinplastic,forupto2days.Brioche

canbekeptinaclosedairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.

BLACKANDBLUEPAVLOVA

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...asachicdaytimedessertthatislight-as-airandneveroverwhelming.

SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME1hour30minutesonedaybefore;2hoursthedayofYIELD6pavlovas

TIMELINE

ONE DAY BEFOREMake ganache and compote THE DAY OFWhip ganache;makemeringues;assemble

SPECIALTOOLS

MicroplaneSmallsieve(forsiftingconfectioners’sugar)CandythermometerStandmixerwithwhiskattachment3uncutpipingbags

3uncutpipingbagsAteco#809plaintip(11/16-inch/1.75cmdiameter)3-inch(7.5cm)ringcutter

INGREDIENTSLEMONGANACHEGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 2each 2each

Heavycream 3/4cup+2tablespoons 188grams

Gratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon

Granulatedsugar 1/4cup 51gramsWhitechocolate,finelychopped 3/4cup 117grams

Lemonjuice 1/2cup+1tablespoon 141grams

BLUEBERRYCOMPOTEBlueberries 2cups 300grams

Granulatedsugar 3/4cup+1tablespoon+1teaspoon

171grams

Powderedpectin 2teaspoons 3.5gramsGratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon

Lemonjuice 1/2teaspoon 2grams

BLUEBERRYMERINGUESHELLSEggwhites(large) 7each 7each(210grams)

Granulatedsugar 1cup+2tablespoons 203grams

Confectioners’sugar,sifted 13/4cups 200gramsBlueberryextract 2drops 2drops

Violetfoodcoloring,gel 2drops 2drops

Blackberries 42each 42each

Confectioners’sugar asneeded asneeded

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEGANACHE

1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(6grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Combinetheheavycream,lemonzest,andgranulatedsugarinasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

3.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.

4.Placethewhitechocolateinalargeheatproofbowl.Pourone-thirdofthehotcreamoverthechocolate.Letstandfor30seconds.

5.Whiskthewhitechocolateandhotcreamuntilincorporated.Addtheremaininghotcreamandwhiskuntilsmooth.

6.Settheganacheasidetocool.Whenitreachesroomtemperature,whiskinthelemonjuice.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.

MAKECOMPOTE

1.Bringabouttwo-thirdsoftheblueberriestoasimmerinasmallpotovermediumheat.Slowlywhiskin1tablespoonplus1teaspoon(14grams)ofthesugarandthepectinandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.2

2.Slowlystreamintheremaining3/4cup(145grams)sugar,whisking,andkeepingthecompoteataboil.Cookuntilthecompotereaches221°F(105°C)andthickenstoajam-likeconsistency.

3.Stirinthelemonzest,lemonjuice,andtheremainingblueberries.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoasmallbowl.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthecompote,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateuntilcompletelycooled,atleast45minutes.

4.Transferthecompotetoapipingbag.Refrigerateuntilneeded.

THEDAYOFWHIPGANACHE

Transferthelemonganachetoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeeduntilitholdsamedium-stiffpeak,2to3minutes.Usingarubberspatula,place2 largescoopsofganacheinapipingbagsothat it isone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthebag.Refrigerateuntilneeded.3

MAKEMERINGUES

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento185°F(85°C)foraconventionalovenor160°F(70°C)forconvection.

2.Washanddrythemixerbowlandwhisk,makingsuretheyarecleanandfreeofanyresidue.Whiptheeggwhitesonmediumspeedinastandmixerfittedwithawhiskuntilfrothy.Slowlystreaminthegranulatedsugarinthreeadditions,makingsurethesugarisdissolvedbetweenadditions.Continuetowhiptheeggwhitesuntiltheyformstiffpeaks,2to3minutes.4

3.Removethebowlfromthemixerandusingarubberspatula,gentlyfoldintheconfectioners’sugarinthreeadditions,untilcompletelyincorporated.

Addtheblueberryextractandvioletfoodcoloringandcontinuetofolduntilthecolorisuniform.Becarefulnottooverworkthemeringue,oritwilllosevolumeandbecomesoft.

4.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#809plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofmeringueinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemeringuedowntowardthetipofthebag.

5.Lineahalfsheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Usea3-inch(7.5cm)ringcuttertotrace12circlesinpencilabout2inches(5cm)apartontheparchment.Fliptheparchmentoversothemeringuewon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarks.Ateachcorner,pipeasmalldotofmeringueundertheparchmentandpushtheparchmentflat.Thiswillhelpkeepit“glued”tothesheetpan.

6.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1inch(2.5cm)abovethesheetpan,pipewithsteady,evenpressureuntilthemeringuefillstheguideline.Pullthepipingbagstraightuptocreateafinepoint.Youshouldhaveameringueshapedlikeabigteardrop.Repeatwiththeremainingguidelines.

7.Baketheshellsonthecenterrackfor25minutes.Theshellswillnotbebakedthroughyet.Removetheshellsfromtheovenandgentlypeelthemfromtheparchmentpaperwithyourhands.Iftheshellsdonotreleasefromtheparchmenteasily,returntotheoventobakefor10moreminutes.Placetheshellsonapieceofparchmentpaperontheworksurface.

8.Withtheflatbottomoftheshellfacingup,scoopouttheinsidewithaspoon,leavingathindomeofmeringueabout3/8inch(1cm)thick.Repeatwiththeremainingshells.

9.Returntheshellstothesheetpanwiththehollowed-outsidedownandbakeforanadditional30minutesoruntilcompletelydryontheinside.Letthemcoolcompletelyatroomtemperature.

10.Usingamicroplane,sandthepeaksoffhalfoftheshellstomakeaflatsurface.Thesewillbecomethebasesofthepavlovas.Reservealltheshellsinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded.

ASSEMBLE

1.Arrangethebasessothatthecavityisfacingup.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithlemonganache.Pipealargedollopoflemonganache(about20gramsor11/2tablespoons)tofilleachbase.

2.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithblueberrycompote.(Makesureit’slargeenoughforthewholeblueberries.)Pipeabout1tablespoon(20grams)ofcompoteontothecenterofthelemonganache.Continuewiththeremainingbaseshells.

3.Arrange6or7wholeblackberriesalongtheedgeofeachpavlovabase.Theberriesshouldcompletelycoverthefilling.

4.Restthetopshellsontheblackberries;ifnecessary,pipemorelemonganacheontheberriestohelpthetopstick.

5.Usingasmallsieve,dusteachpavlovawithconfectioners’sugar.Refrigerateuntilyouarereadytoserve.

1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

2.Reserving some freshblueberries to addat theendwill ensure youget somenicechunksofblueberriesinthecompote.

Afteraddingthepectin,itisimportanttokeepthecompoteataboil,whilewhiskingconstantly.Adropintemperaturewillaffecthowthepectinsets.

3.Whippedganachewillgenerallyholdfor1day,butthetexturewillchangethesecondday,soitisalwaysbettertowhipjustwhatyouneed.

4.Thistypeofmeringue,whereyoudon’theatthesugar,iscalleda“Frenchmeringue.”

SERVING INSTRUCTIONS Let the pavlovas sit out for 5minutes to temper beforeserving.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Pavlovas are best consumed the day they are assembled.Theycanbestoredintherefrigeratorforupto24hours.Leftovermeringuescanbestored inaclosedairtightcontainerat roomtemperature for1day.Leftovercompoteandlemonganachecanbestoredintherefrigeratorforupto2days.

PINKCHAMPAGNEMACARONS

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...forcelebratoryoccasionsrequiringalittleextraflashandsplendor.

SKILL LEVEL IntermediateTIME30minutes twodaysbefore;2hours30minutesonedaybefore;15minutesthedayofYIELD20to25macarons

TIMELINE

TWO DAYS BEFOREMake ganacheONE DAY BEFOREMake shells; fill and assembleTHEDAYOFServe

SPECIALTOOLS

Instant-readthermometerCandythermometerMediumsieveFoodprocessor(optional)

Foodprocessor(optional)StandmixerfittedwithwhiskattachmentPastrybrush2uncutpipingbagsAteco#803plaintip(5/16-inch/0.8cmdiameter)11/2-inch(4cm)ringcutter(optional)Ateco#804plaintip(3/8inch/1cmdiameter)

INGREDIENTSROSÉCHAMPAGNEGANACHEWater 2tablespoons 20grams

RoséChampagne 1/4cup+2tablespoons 96grams

Unsweetenedcocoapowder 11/2tablespoons 9grams

Heavycream 1/2cup 115gramsEggyolks(large) 3each 3each(60grams)

Granulatedsugar 3tablespoons 38grams

Darkchocolate(66%cocoacontent),finelychopped

1cup+1tablespoon 165grams

MACARONSHELLSAlmondflour 2cups 180grams

Confectioners’sugar,sifted 13/4cups 203gramsEggwhites(large) 5each 5each(150grams)

Redfoodcoloring,gel asneeded asneeded

Water 2tablespoons 30grams

Granulatedsugar 3/4cup 154grams

Goldleaf 25sheets 25sheets

TWODAYSBEFOREMAKEGANACHE

1.Combinethewater,2tablespoons(26grams)oftheChampagne,andthecocoapowderinasmallbowl.Whisktomakeasmoothpaste.

2.Combinetheheavycreamandtheremaining1/4cup(70grams)Champagneinasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

3.Whisktheeggyolksandgranulatedsugartogetherinasecondsmallbowl.Streamone-thirdofthehotcreamandChampagneintotheeggyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.WhiskthetemperedyolksintotheremaininghotcreamandChampagneandreturnthepottomediumheat.

4.Continuetocookthecustardovermediumheat,whiskingconstantly.Thecustardwillthickenandbecomeapaleyellow.Whenthecustardreaches185°F(85°C)andisthickenoughtocoatthebackofaspoon,removeit

fromtheheat.Addthecocoapowderpasteandwhiskuntilfullyincorporated.

5.Placethechocolateinalargeheatproofbowl.Strainthecustardthroughamediumsieveoverthechocolate.Letstandfor30seconds.

6.Whiskthecustardandchocolatetogetheruntilsmooth,about30seconds.Whenfinished,theganachewillhavetheconsistencyofmayonnaise.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKESHELLS

1.Whiskthealmondflourandconfectioners’sugartogetherinamediumbowluntiltherearenolumps.1

2.Witharubberspatula,stirin3oftheeggwhites(90grams)tocreateathickpaste.Addredfoodcoloringasneededtoturnthebasedarkpink.2

3.Pourtheremaining2eggwhites(60grams)intoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Beginwhippingthemonmediumspeed.

4.Combinethewaterandgranulatedsugarinasmallpot.Mixwithyourhandtocreate“wetsand,”makingsureallthesugarismoistened.Setovermediumheatandbringtoaboil.Cookthesyrupwithoutstirringuntilitreaches241°F(116°C).3

5.Whentheeggwhiteshavetripledinvolumeandformmediumpeaks,turnthespeedtohighandslowlypourthehotsyrupdowntheinsideedgeofthebowl,makingsuretoavoidhittingthewhisk.Whenallthesyruphasbeenincorporated,continuetowhiponhighspeedfor1minutemore.4

6.Witharubberspatula,foldone-thirdofthemeringueintothealmondflourbase.Whenincorporated,foldintheremainingmeringue.Continuetogentlyfoldthemacaronbatteruntilallthelumpsaregone.Thebattershouldstillbeslightlywarmtothetouch.5

7.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#803plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofmacaronbatterinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthebatterdowntowardthetipofthebag.6

8.Linetwohalfsheetpansoronelargesheetpanwithparchmentpaper.7Ateachcorner,pipeasmalldotofbatterundertheparchmentandpushtheparchmentflat.Thiswillhelpkeepit“glued”tothesheetpan.

9.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethepan,pipedotsofmacaronbatter11/2inches(4cm)indiameter,spacingthemacaronsatleast2inches(5cm)apart.

10.Carefullytapthesheetpansbyliftingthemupafewinchesintheairanddroppingthemflatontheworksurface.Thiswillhelpspreadthebatterslightlyandknockoutanyairbubbles.

11.Letthemacaronsair-dryforabout1hour.Athinskinwillformonthemacaronssothatwhentheybaketheywillkeeptheirshape.8

12.Whilethemacaronsaredrying,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento275°F(135°C)forconventionalor250°F(120°C)forconvection.

13.Bakethemacaronsonthecenterrackforabout10minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor10minutesmore.Themacaronshellsshouldbedryandfirmtothetouch.Duringthebakingprocess,theywillslightlyrisefromthebaseandformthesignature“foot.”

14.Lettheshells,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.Carefullypeelthemfromtheparchmentpaper.9

FILLANDASSEMBLE

1.Match2macaronshellsthatarethesamesize.Placethemflatsideupandslightlyindentthecenterofeachshellbygentlypressingwithyourthumb.Thiswillhelpcreateapocketfortheganache.Repeatforalltheshells.

2.Usingarubberspatula,worktheganacheintoasmoothpaste.3.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingarubber

spatula,place2largescoopsofganacheinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthebag.

4.Holdingthepipingbagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovetheshell,pipealargedollopofganacheintothepocketofonehalfoftheshellpair.Theganacheshouldfillthepocketandcoverabouttwo-thirdsofthesurfaceoftheshell.

5.Sandwichthetwoshellstogether,pressinguntilathinlineofganacheisvisibleallthewayaroundthemacaron.Repeatwiththeremainingshells.

6.Returnthefilledmacaronstothesheetpanandcoverlooselyinplasticwrap.Refrigerateovernightsothemacaronscan“age.”Theymustspendsometimeintherefrigeratortoallowtheganachetoslowlysoftentheshell.10

THEDAYOFSERVE

1.Testtoensurethattheoutsideofthemacaronisstillcrispbuttheinsidehassoftened.Iftheinsideisstillcrisp,restintherefrigeratorforafewhourslonger.

2.Lightlydabadropofwateronthetopshellwithapastrybrush.Usingthetipofaparingknife,gentlyremoveapieceofgoldleafandlayitoverthemacaron.

1.Foranextrasmoothfinish,Iprefertoblendthealmondflourandconfectioners’sugartogetherinafoodprocessor.Justbecarefulnottooverworkthealmondflour.Ifyoudo,itwillreleaseoilsthatwillturnthemixtureintoapaste.

2. When adding food coloring to the base, keep in mind that you will mix this into a whitemeringue,whichwilllightenthecolorby3shadesormore.

3.Itisimportanttomakesuretheinsidewallofthepotisfreeofanygrainsofsugar,whichcouldcrystallizeandresultinagrainysyrup.Useawetpastrybrushtocleantheinsideofthepotasyoucook.

4.Howyoupour thesyrup into theeggwhites isvery important.Aimfor the insideedgeof thebowl,wherethewhiskdoesnottouch.Ifyoupourthesyrupontothewhisk,itwillsplashallovertheinsideofthebowlandpossiblyontoyourhands.Ifyoupourtoofast,youriskcookingtheeggwhitesanddeflatingthemeringue.Slowandsteadyisthewaytogo.

5.Theconsistencyof the finishedbatter is very important to the finalproduct.Overworking thebatterwillresultinaflatshell.Underworkingthebatterwillresultinagrainyshell.

6.Macaronbatterneedstobepipedrightaway,whileit’swarm,oritwillstarttosetandbecomeclumpy.

7. Ifpiping isnotyourstrongsuit,usea11/2-inch(4cm) ringcutter to tracecircles inpencilabout1inch(2.5cm)apartontheparchmentpaper.Fliptheparchmentoversothebatterwon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarks.

8.Ifthemacaronsdonotdryenough,theywillcrackandlosetheirshapewhenyoubakethem.It’sbettertoletthemdryafewextraminutesifyouareunsureiftheyareready.

9.Ifthemacaronssticktothepaper,placetheminthefreezerfor15minutesandtheyshouldreleasemuchmoreeasily.

10.Dependingonthemoisturecontentofthefilling,macaronsneedtoageforatleast24hoursintherefrigerator.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSEnjoyatroomtemperature.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSFilledmacaronscanbekeptinaclosedairtightcontainerin the refrigerator for up to 3 days and up to 1week in the freezer, if frozenimmediatelyaftertheyarefilled.Oncethawed,theycannotberefrozen.

APPLEMARSHMALLOW

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...asachicdaytimedessertthatislight-as-airandneveroverwhelming.

SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME1hour30minutesonedaybefore;2hoursthedayofYIELD6pavlovas

SPECIALTOOLS

6plasticapplechocolatemolds,3inches(7.6cm)indiameterand23/4inches(7cm)high2paletteknives

WirerackStandmixerwithwhiskattachmentCandythermometer2uncutpipingbagsAirbrushSix8-inch(20cm)lollipopsticksParchmentpapercornet

INGREDIENTS

Milkchocolate,finelychopped 21/4pounds 1kilogram

Softcaramel(page121) 2batches 2batches

CINNAMONMARSHMALLOWGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 5each 5eachEggwhites(large) 3each(90grams) 3each

Granulatedsugar 11/4cups 260grams

Lightcornsyrup 3tablespoons 52grams

Water 1/3cup 77grams

Groundcinnamon 1teaspoon 2.5grams

DECORATINGRedcocoabutter 11/2cups 200grams

Marzipan 2tablespoons 30grams

Darkchocolate,andtightlypacked 1tablespoon 10grams

MAKECHOCOLATESHELLS

1.Meltandtemperthemilkchocolate(seepage242).2.Placeawirerackoverasheetpan(tocatchexcesschocolatethatdripsfrom

themolds).Oneatatime,fillthetwohalvesofanapplechocolatemoldwiththetemperedchocolateandletstandfor1minute.Invertthemoldoverthewirerackandlettheexcesschocolaterunoutofthecavity.Asthechocolatesets,useapaletteknifetoscrapeawayanyexcesschocolateonthemold.Thechocolateshellshouldbeaboutthethicknessofacreditcard.Repeatwiththeremainingmolds.Refrigerateabout45minutestoset.

3.Tounmold,twistthemoldslightly.4.Reservetheappleshellsinacoolplaceuntilyou’rereadytofillthem.

MAKESOFTCARAMEL

Makethesoftcaramel,page121.Fillapipingbagwiththesoftcaramelandsetaside.

MAKECINNAMONMARSHMALLOW

1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle4teaspoons(12grams)gelatinover5tablespoons(75grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Placetheeggwhitesinastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Beginwhippingthemonmediumspeed.2

3.Combinethegranulatedsugar,cornsyrup,andwaterinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheatandcookthesyrupwithoutstirringuntilitreaches266°F(130°C).

4.Removethesyrupfromtheheat.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotsyrupuntilthegelatinisdissolved.Turnthemixertohighspeedandslowlypourthehotsyrupintothewhippedwhites,streamingitdowntheinsideofthebowltoavoidhittingthewhisk.

5.Continuetowhipthemarshmallowuntilalmostcompletelycooled,about5minutes.Addthecinnamonandwhipuntilitisincorporated.

6.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofcinnamonmarshmallowinanotherpipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemarshmallowdowntowardthetipofthebag.

ASSEMBLE

1.Whilethemarshmallowisstillwarm,cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Startingfromthecenteroftheappleshell,pipeinmarshmallowuntileachhalfappleshellisthree-quartersfull.Repeatwithremaininghalvesofthechocolateappleshells.

2.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithsoftcaramel.Placethetipofthatbaginsidethecinnamonmarshmallowandpipeuntilthemarshmallowexpandstofilltheentirehalfoftheshell.Repeatwiththeremaininghalvesofthechocolateappleshells.

3.Fillamediumpotwithabout2inches(5cm)ofwaterandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Placeaninvertedsheetpanoverthepottowarm.Whenthepanfeelswarmtothetouch,lightlyrubtheedgeofthetophalfofanappleshellonthesurfacesothatitstartstomelt.Repeatwiththebottomhalfoftheappleshell.Lineupthemeltededgesofbothpiecestogluetogether.Useyourfingerstorubtheedgesandcreateafirmseal.

4.Covertheworkspacewhereyouwillbeairbrushingtheappleshellswithparchmentpaper.

5.Melttheredcocoabutterinamicrowaveforafewseconds(followtheinstructionsontheproduct).Fillyourairbrushwiththemeltedredcocoabutterandlightlyspraytheoutsideofeachchocolateapple.

6.Warmaparingknifeunderhotrunningwaterandwipeitdry.Makeasmallholeinthecenterofthetophalfofthechocolateapplewiththeknife.Placealollipopstickthroughtheholeandpressitintothemarshmallow.

7.Tocreateeach“worm,”rollapieceofmarzipanintoalog.Fillacornetwithasmallamountofmelteddarkchocolateandpipe2eyesontoeachworm.Placethewormsontopoftheapples.

1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

2. Adding egg whites to marshmallow helps make the final product much lighter and fluffier.Because it will fill a chocolate shell and doesn’t need to hold its shape on its own, a softermarshmallowwillworkwellhere.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServeatroomtemperature.Afunwaytoeattheappleistosliceitintosegmentsuponserving.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Apple Marshmallows can be kept in a closed airtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto1week.

SUNFLOWERTART

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...forwhenIwanttoaddjustabitofjenesaisquoitotheendofameal.

SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME3hours30minutesYIELD6individual3-inch(7.5cm)cheesecakesor1large8-inch(20cm)tart

SPECIALTOOLS

Instant-readthermometerSmallsieveSpicegrinder11/2-inch(4cm)siliconehalf-spheremoldsSix3-inch(7.5cm)tartrings1

Uncutpipingbag

INGREDIENTSPASSIONFRUITCURDGelatinsheet(160bloom)2 1each 1each

Passionfruitpurée 1/3cup+2tablespoons 96grams

Granulatedsugar 1/2cup+2tablespoons+1teaspoon

128grams

Wholeeggs(large) 3each 3each(150grams)Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 8tablespoons 112grams

SPICEBLENDGroundginger 1/4teaspoon 1gram

Honeypowder 2tablespoons 15grams

Saffronthreads 1/2teaspoon 0.1gram

Pinkpeppercorns 1teaspoon 1gramFennelseeds 1teaspoon 2grams

APRICOTCOMPOTEGelatinsheet(160bloom)2 3each 3each

Freshapricots,pittedanddiced 2cups(about6apricots 400grams(6apricots)

Honey 1/4cup 75grams

Water 1/4cup+1/2tablespoon 50gramsSpiceblend(fromabove) 2teaspoons 8grams

Vanillasablétartshelldough (page130),unbaked

13/4cups 500grams

Freshapricots 6to8each 6to8each

Poppyseeds 1/2teaspoon 3grams

MAKEPASSIONFRUITCURD

1.Soakall4gelatinsheets(forboththepassionfruitcurdandapricotcompote)inabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1teaspoon(2.3grams)gelatinover1tablespoon(15grams)waterinonesmallbowland7teaspoons(15grams)gelatinover3tablespoons(45grams)waterinanothersmallbowl.Stirandletbothsit20minutestobloom.

2.Combinethepassionfruitpuréeand5tablespoons(64grams)ofthesugarinamediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat,thenremovefromtheheat.

3.Whisktheeggsandtheremaining5tablespoons(64grams)sugartogetherinasmallheatproofbowl.Streaminone-thirdofthehotpassionfruitpurée,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totempertheeggs.Whiskthetemperedeggsintotheremaininghotpurée.Returnthepottomediumheat.

4.Whiskingconstantly,continuetocookthecurdovermediumheatuntilitreaches185°F(85°C).Itshouldbecreamyandthick.Removefromtheheat.

5.Squeezetheexcesswateroutof1gelatinsheet.Addthesheet(orsmalleramountofbloomedpowderedgelatin)tothecurdandwhiskuntilthe

gelatinisdissolved.Pourthepassionfruitcurdthroughasieveintoamediumheatproofbowl.3

6.Letthecurdcoolto113°F(45°C),stillhottothetouch.Usingawhisk,incorporatethebutteruntilsmooth.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthecurd,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateuntilset,about45minutes.

MAKESPICEBLENDANDAPRICOTCOMPOTE

1.Combineallthespicestogetherusingaspicegrinderandthensiftitthroughasmallsieve.

2.Combinethedicedapricots,honey,andwaterinamediumpotandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat.Cookuntiltheapricotsaresoftandasaucehasformed,about10minutes.

3.Removefromtheheat.Squeezeanyexcesswateroutoftheremaining3gelatinsheets.Addthegelatinsheets(ortheremainingbloomedpowderedgelatin)andthespicemixturetotheapricotsandstiruntilthegelatinisdissolved.

4.Placethesiliconehalf-spheremoldsonaquarterorhalfsheetpan.Portionabout1tablespoon(20grams)oftheapricotcompoteintothemolds.Coverlooselywithplasticwrapandfreezeuntilhard,2to3hours.

MAKEANDBAKETARTSHELLS

1.Makethevanillasablétartshelldough,page130.2.Rollout,cut,andfitthedoughintosix3-inch(7.5cm)tartrings.Returnto

therefrigeratortochillforabout30minutes.3.Whilethetartshellsarechilling,placearackinthecenteroftheovenand

preheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.

4.Bakethetartshellsonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilthetartshellsaregoldenbrown.

5.Unmoldthetartshellswhilestillwarm.Letcoolcompletelyatroomtemperature.

ASSEMBLE

1.Usingarubberspatula,foldthepassionfruitcurduntilitissmooth.Usingthespatula,place2largescoopsofcurdinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthecurddowntowardthetipofthebag.

2.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthe

pipingbagfilledwithpassionfruitcurd.Pipethecurdintoeachtartshelluntilitreachesabout1/4inch(6mm)fromthetopedge.

3.Unmoldtheapricotcompotedomes.Useaparingknifetotrimawayanyroughedgesifnecessary.Placeanapricotdomeflatsidedowninthecenterofeachtart.Pressgentlyintothecurd.

4.Usingaparingknife,cutthefreshapricotsinhalfverticallyandremovethepits.Slicetheapricothalvesasthinlyaspossible(preferablyaboutthethicknessofacreditcard).Rolltwoapricotslicestogethertocreateaspiral“petal.”Placethethinnerendofthepetalattheedgeofanapricotdome.Repeatuntilthedomeiscompletelysurroundedbypetals.Repeatfortheremainingtarts.

5.Sprinklepoppyseedsontheapricotdomeinthecenterofthetartsothatthedessertresemblesasunflower.Refrigerateuntilserving.

1.Ifyouwouldlikealargerorsmallertart,feelfreetousedifferentsizetartrings.

2. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

3.Forbestresults,strainthepassionfruitcurdbeforecooling.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServechilledstraightfromtherefrigerator.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS The tarts should be consumed the day they are built.Leftover passion fruit curd can be kept in a closed airtight container in therefrigerator forupto2days.Leftover tart shellscanbekept inaclosedairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.

CHRISTMASMORNINGCEREAL

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...oneweekendinearlyDecemberandeatingabitofitdailyuntilChristmas!

SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME3hours

YIELD6to8servings(about2cups/100gramsperserving)

SPECIALTOOLS

3half-sheetsiliconebakingmats(optional)

INGREDIENTS

MiniMe’s(page116;usecinnamonforflavoring),bakedandcooled

4cups 400grams

MILKCHOCOLATECEREALPuffedricecereal 10cups 250grams

Lightcornsyrup 1/3cup+2tablespoons 117grams

Granulatedsugar 1/3cup+2tablespoons 94grams

Milkchocolate,finelychopped 11/2cups 250grams

CARAMELIZEDHAZELNUTSWholeblanchedhazelnuts 11/2cups 220gramsLightcornsyrup 1tablespoon 12grams

Granulatedsugar 2tablespoons 26grams

MAKEMINIME’S

MakeMiniMe’s,page116.

MAKEMILKCHOCOLATECEREAL

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento365°F(185°C)forconventionalor340°F(170°C)forconvection.Linetwohalfsheetpanswithsiliconebakingmatsorparchmentpaper.

2.Combinethepuffedriceandcornsyrupinalargebowl.Stirwitharubberspatulaandaddthesugaruntilthecerealisevenlycoated.Spreadthecoatedcerealinasinglelayeronthehalfsheetpans.

3.Bakethecerealonthecenterrackfor4minutes.Rotatethepans180degreesandbakefor4minutesmoreoruntilgoldenbrown.

4.Letthecereal,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.Breakthecerealinpiecesthesizeofnickelsintoacleanlargebowl.Setaside.

5.Melttwo-thirds(1cup/180grams)ofthemilkchocolateinasmallbowlinthemicrowaveonhighpowerin20-secondintervals.Stirbetweenintervalswithaheatproofspatulatoensureevenmelting.1

6.Addtheremaining1/2cup(70grams)choppedchocolatetothemeltedchocolateandstirwiththespatulauntilsmooth.Atthispoint,thechocolateshouldbetempered,butdouble-checkbydippingtheendofaspoonintothechocolateandlettingitsetatroomtemperature.Ifitsetswithoutstreaks,thenitisready.Ifnot,keepstirringandtestthechocolateagainuntilitsetswithasmoothshine.2(Seepage242ontempering.)7.Pourthetemperedmilkchocolateoverthecaramelizedcereal.Stirwiththespatulauntilthecerealisevenlycoated.Spreadthecoatedcerealinasinglelayeronthe2halfsheetpans.Refrigeratefor2hourstoset.

MAKECARAMELIZEDHAZELNUTS

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.Lineahalfsheetpanwithasiliconebakingmatorparchmentpaper.

2.Combinethehazelnutsandcornsyrupinamediumbowl.Stirwitharubberspatulaandaddthesugaruntilthehazelnutsareevenlycoated.Spreadthehazelnutsinasinglelayeronthelinedpan.Bakethehazelnutsonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilgoldenbrown.

3.Letthehazelnuts,stillonthesiliconemat,coolcompletely.

ASSEMBLE

CombinetheMiniMe’s,milkchocolatecereal,andcaramelizedhazelnuts.Tosswell.

1.Topreventthechocolatefromburningyoushouldneverheatitinthemicrowaveformorethan30secondsatatime.Makesuretostirthechocolatebetweenintervals.

2. This is called “seeding” because you are adding little pieces of chocolate to the meltedchocolate to slowly cool down the temperature. It’s a preferred method of tempering when youdon’thavealargeworkspace.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServewithice-coldwholemilk.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS The cereal can be kept in a closed airtight container atroomtemperatureforupto3weeks.

“LIMEMEUP”TART

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseitofferseveryoneachancetoaddafinaltouch.

SKILLLEVELIntermediate

TIME2hours30minutesonedaybefore;1hours30minutesthedayofYIELD6tarts

TIMELINE

ONEDAYBEFOREMakemousse,meringue,limecurd,andchocolatedécorTHEDAY

OFMakeandbaketartshelldough;assemble

SPECIALTOOLS

StandmixerfittedwithawhiskCandythermometer3uncutpipingbagsAcetateorasiliconebakingmat6rectangulartartmolds,43/4by11/2by3/4inches(12by4by2cm)*orsix2

5/8(6.9cm)roundtartrings5

INGREDIENTSLIMEMOUSSE

Gelatinsheet(160bloom)1 2each 2each

Heavycream 1/3cup 76grams

Wholemilk 1/3cup 78gramsGranulatedsugar 2tablespoons 26grams

Limejuice 2tablespoons 40grams

Gratedlimezest 1/2lime 1/2lime

ITALIANMERINGUE2

Eggwhites(large) 3each 3each(90grams)

Granulatedsugar 1cup 205gramsWater 2tablespoons 28grams

LIMECURDGelatinsheet(160bloom)3 1/2each 1/2each

Limejuice 1/4cup 48grams

Gratedlimezest 1/2lime 1/2lime

Granulatedsugar 1/4cup+2tablespoons 77gramsWholeeggs(large;beat2eggsandmeasureoutthree-quarters)

41/2tablespoons 11/2each(75grams)

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 4tablespoons 56grams

Whitechocolatechips 11/3cups 200grams

Vanillasablétartshelldough(page130) 1cup 250grams

Brownsugar 1tablespoon+1teaspoon 15gramsMaldonsalt4 1tablespoon+1teaspoon 10grams

Driedjuniperberries,crushed 2teaspoons 4grams

Limewedges 6each 6each

ONEDAYBEFOREBEGINMOUSSE

1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(6grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Whipthecreaminastandmixerfittedwithawhiskuntilitholdsmedium-stiffpeaks.Transferthewhippedcreamtoamediumbowl.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerate.

3.Bringthemilkandsugartoasimmerinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

4.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatin,limejuice,andlimezestintothehotmilkuntilthegelatinis

dissolved.(Afteryouaddthelimejuice,themilkwillcurdleslightlyasitreactstotheacid,butkeepwhiskinganditwillcomebacktogether.)Setasideatroomtemperature.

MAKEMERINGUEANDFINISHMOUSSE

1.Pourtheeggwhitesintoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Beginwhippingtheeggwhitesonmediumspeed.

2.Meanwhile,combinethegranulatedsugarandwaterinasmallpot,usingyourhandstomixuntilyoureacha“wetsand”consistency.Makesuretherearenosugargrainsremainingaroundtheedgeofthepotbywipingthesidesofthepotwithawetpastrybrush.Bringthesugartoaboilovermediumheat.Cookthesyrupwithoutstirringuntilitreaches248°F(120°C),thetemperatureatwhichtheeggsarecookedandthemeringuestabilized.Removefromtheheat.Bynow,theeggwhitesshouldholdasoftpeak.Withthemixeronmediumspeed,slowlypourthehotsyrupdowntheinsideofthebowltoavoidhittingthewhisk.Continuewhippingthewhitesuntiljustslightlywarm,about4minutes.6

3.Measure1/4cup(30grams)ofthemeringueintoamediumbowl.Addone-thirdofthelimebasetothemeringueandgentlyfolduntilcombined.Addtheremainingtwo-thirdsofthelimebaseandfolditinwitharubberspatula.

4.Usingthespatula,foldone-thirdofthewhippedcreamintothelimeandmeringue.Whenallthecreamhasbeenincorporated,addtheremainingtwo-thirdsofthewhippedcreamandcontinuefoldinguntilthecreamiscompletelyincorporated.

5.Usingthespatula,place2largescoopsoflimemousseinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.

6.Lineahalfsheetpanwithacetateorasiliconebakingmat.Placethemoldsonthepan.Linethemoldswithacetatestrips.

7.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbag.Pipethemousseintothemoldsuntilthemoussereachesjustabovetheedgeofthemold.Usingasmalloffsetspatula,levelthemoussetotheheightofthemold.Coverlooselywithplasticwrapandfreezeuntilset,about2hours.

8.Oneatatime,rubamoldwithyourhandstogentlywarmit.Unmoldthemousse,stillintheacetatestrips,backontothesheetpan.Coverwithplasticwrapandreturntothefreezer.

MAKELIMECURD

1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1/2teaspoon(1.5grams)gelatinover11/2teaspoons(7.5grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Whiskthelimejuice,limezest,and2tablespoons(26grams)ofthegranulatedsugartogetherinamediumpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

3.Whisktheeggsandtheremaining2tablespoons(33grams)granulatedsugarinamediumheatproofbowl.Streamone-thirdofthehotlimejuiceintotheeggs,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedeggsintotheremaininghotjuiceandreturnthepottomediumheat.

4.Continuetocookthecurdovermediumheat,whiskingconstantly,untilthecurdthickenstoacustardyconsistencyandbeginstobubble.Removefromtheheat.

5.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcurduntilthegelatinisdissolved.Strainthecurdthroughamediumsieveintoamediumbowlandsetasidetocool.

6.Whenthecurdcoolsto113°F(45°C),whiskinthebutteruntilsmooth.7.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthecurd,to

preventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateuntilset,about4hours.8.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsoflimecurdinapipingbagso

thatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthecurddowntowardthetipofthebag.Refrigerateuntilneeded.

MAKECHOCOLATEDÉCOR

1.Meltandtemperthewhitechocolate(seepage242).Transferthewhitechocolatetoapipingbag.

2.Cutasmallholeinthebag(aboutthesizeofadime).Pipe6dotsofthechocolate,spaced11/2inches(4cm)apart,onanacetatesheet.Usingachef’sknifeatanangle,pressthetipoftheknifeintothechocolateandslowlypulltheknifeupandaway,dragginga“tail”ofwhitechocolateasyouremovetheknife.Laytheacetateoverarollingpintocurvethepetal.Letsetatroomtemperaturefor12hoursbeforeremovingthechocolatepetalsfromtheacetate.6

THEDAYOFMAKEANDBAKETARTSHELLS

Make the vanilla sablé dough recipe, page 130. Cut to fit the rectangular tartmolds.Bakeandunmold.Setasidetocooltoroomtemperature.

ASSEMBLE

1.Combinethebrownsugar,salt,andcrushedjuniperberriesinasmallbowl.2.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthe

pipingbagfilledwithlimecurd.Pipethecurdintothetartshells,fillingthemuntilthecurdjustcomesoverthetopedge.Usingasmalloffsetspatula,levelthecurdsothatitisthesameheightasthetartshells.

3.Placethelimemousseontopofthecurdinthetartshells.Themousseshouldbetheexactsamesizeasthetartshell.Whenallthetartshellshavebeenfilled,placethemintherefrigeratortothawcompletely,about1hour.

4.Usingaparingknife,cut1/2inch(11/2cm)offthetipofeachmoussetocreatealedge.Placealimewedgewherethemoussewascutaway.

5.Warmachef’sknifeunderhotwaterandcutintothecenterofthemousseatananglealongthelengthofthemousse.Repeatatanoppositeangle,creatingasmalltrianglecutaway.Thisgroovewillholdthesugar–seasalt–junipermixture.

6.Fillawhitechocolatepetalwiththesugar–seasalt–junipermixtureandplaceinthegrooveinthemousse.Refrigerateuntilyouarereadytoserve.

1.Ifyoucan’tfindrectangulartartrings,youcansubstitute21/2-inch(6.5cm)diameterroundtartrings.

2. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

3.Formoststandmixers,21/2cups(300grams)isthesmallestamountofItalianmeringuethatcanbemade.Soforthisapplicationyouwillhavetomakeextraandmeasureoutwhatyouneed,1/2cup(30grams).Theremainingmeringuecanbeusedforanotherrecipe.

4.Ifyoucan’tfindMaldonsalt,youcanusefleurdeseloraflakyseasalt.

5.This iscalled“Italianmeringue.”It isusedmostly infruitmoussesandismadewithcookedsugarsyrup.

6.Ifthepetalsdon’tpeelofftheacetatecleanly,youcanplacethemintherefrigeratorfor10to15minutesbeforeunmolding.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSLetthetartssitoutfor5minutestotemperbeforeserving.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Tarts are best if consumed within 24 hours of making.Leftovermousse and lime curd can be kept in closed airtight containers in therefrigerator for 2 days. Leftover tart shells can be kept in a closed airtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto2days.

FROZENS’MORES

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...onthosenightsduringthewinterwhenit’scoldbutIstillfeellikeeatingicecream.

SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME3hoursonedaybefore;1hour30minutesthedayofYIELD12s’mores

TIMELINE

ONEDAYBEFOREMakeicecream;shapeicecream;makechocolatefeuilletineTHE

DAYOFBeginassembly;makemarshmallow;smokebranches;finishassemblyandbrûlée

SPECIALTOOLS

2siliconebakingmatsRuler12rectangularringmolds,21/2by13/4by13/4inches(6.5cmby4.5cmby4.5cm)Candythermometer

StandmixerwithwhiskattachmentUncutpipingbag

UncutpipingbagSmalloffsetspatula12woodenbranchesorsticks,12inches(30.5cm)longSmokinggun(optional)Applewoodchips(optional)Blowtorch

INGREDIENTS

VanillaIceCream(page124),freshlychurned

1quart 1liter

CHOCOLATEFEUILLETINEDarkchocolate(66%cocoacontentor

greater),finelychopped1/2cup 87grams

Koshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram

Feuilletine1 1cup 94gramsNonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded

MARSHMALLOWPowderedgelatin 3tablespoons 24grams

Water 1/3cup+3tablespoons 101grams

Granulatedsugar 2cups 410grams

Lightcornsyrup 1/2cup+1tablespoon 202gramsHoney 3tablespoons 65grams

Water 1/3cup+3tablespoons 101grams

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEICECREAM

Makethevanillaicecream,page124.

SHAPEICECREAM

1.Lineasheetpanwithasiliconebakingmat.Placeinthefreezerfor30minutestochillbeforeusing.

2.Usingarubberspatula,spreadthejust-churnedicecream,whichisstillrelativelysoft,onthesheetpanintoarectangleabout10by8inchesand3/4inchthick(25by20by2cm).Freezeuntilset,about4hours.

3.Inverttheicecreamontoapieceofparchmentpaper.Removethesiliconematandcuttwelve11/4by1–inch(2.5by2cm)rectanglesoficecream.Returntherectanglesoficecreamtothesheetpan,coverwithplasticwrap,andreserveinthefreezeruntilneeded.2

MAKECHOCOLATEFEUILLETINE

1.Lineanothersheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Meltthedarkchocolateinamediumbowlinthemicrowaveonhighpowerin20-secondintervals.Stirwithaheatproofspatulabetweenintervalstoensureevenmelting.Whenthechocolateiscompletelymelted,stirinthesalt.Addthefeuilletineandstiruntilthefeuilletineisevenlycoatedinchocolate.Spreaditonthesheetpaninanevenlayer.Refrigerateuntilsetcompletely.

2.Whencold,breakupanylargepiecesofchocolate-coatedfeuilletine,coverwithplasticwrap,andreturntotherefrigeratoruntilneeded.

THEDAYOFBEGINASSEMBLY

1.Coateachrectangleoficecreaminthefeuilletine,makingsureallsidesarecovered.Returnthecoatedicecreamtothefreezer.

2.Lineasheetpanwithasiliconebakingmat.Place12rectangularringmoldsonthesheetpanandlightlygreasewithnonstickspray.

MAKEMARSHMALLOW

1.Sprinklethegelatinoverthewaterinasmallbowl.Stirandletsitforabout20minutestobloom.

2.Combinethegranulatedsugar,cornsyrup,honey,andwaterinamediumpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Cookwithoutstirringuntilthesyrupreaches250°F(121°C).

3.Carefullypourthehotsyrupintoastandmixerfittedwithawhiskandaddthebloomedgelatin.Whiponlowspeeduntilthegelatiniscompletelydissolved.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandcontinuetowhipfor4to6minutes.Thesyrupwillturnwhiteandquadrupleinvolume.Whenthemarshmallowisfirmenoughtoholdamedium-stiffpeak,stopwhipping.3

4.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofmarshmallowinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemarshmallowdowntowardthetipofthebag.Cutanopeningabout1inch(2.5cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.4

5.Whilethemarshmallowisstillwarm,filleachringmoldaboutthree-quartersfull.Pusharectangleoficecreamintothecenterofthemarshmallowineachmold,whichwillcausethemarshmallowtopushupandoverthesidesofthemold.Pipeinasmallamountofmarshmallowtocoveranyexposedicecream.Usingasmalloffsetspatula,levelthemarshmallowsoitistheexactheightofthemold.5

6.Afterallthemoldshavebeenfilled,letthemsetquicklyfor1to2minutes,thenunmoldthes’moresbyliftingthemoldwhileholdingthemarshmallowdownwithyourfinger.Freezeuntilset,about2hours.

SMOKEBRANCHESORSTICKS(OPTIONAL)Forextraflavor,placethebranchesorsticksinasealableplasticbag.Fitthetipofasmokinggunfilledwithapplewoodchipsintothebagandseal.Letthesmokefillthebagandclose.Setasidefor30minutes,sothebranchesorstickscanabsorbthesmoke.6

FINISHASSEMBLYANDBRÛLÉE

Remove the s’mores from the freezer andpushabranchor stick througheachcenter.Holdthetipofablowtorch3to4inches(7.5to10cm)awayfromthes’moreandbrûléetheentiresurfaceofthemarshmallow.Serveimmediately.

1. If you can’t find feuilletine, you can use any kind of crispy wafers or cookies. Try crushedgrahamcrackers.

2.After portioning the vanilla ice cream for the frozen s’mores, youwill have leftovers.Enjoy ascoopofvanillaicecreamforasnack.

3.Speedisveryimportanthere.Themarshmallowshouldbeusedwhilestillhotoritwillsetveryquickly.Makesureyouhavepreparedalltheotheritemsneededtoassemblethes’moresbeforestartingthemarshmallow.

4. Extra marshmallow can be spread on a sheet pan. After it has set, cut it into cubes for hotchocolate.

5.Ifthemarshmallowstartstostiffenandcool,microwavethepipingbagfor5to10seconds.

6.It’spreferabletouseasmokinggunoutdoors.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServeimmediatelyaftertoasting.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSThefrozens’mores,withoutsticks,canbekeptinaclosedairtight container in the freezer for up to 1 week. Leftover feuilletine can beeatenasasnackorsprinkledontopoficecream.Leftovermarshmallowcanbekept ina thepipingbag foradayandmicrowaved fora fewsecondsand thenusedtomakemores’mores.

ARLETTE

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseitisoneofthemostmarvelousofcookiesandasighttobehold.

SKILLLEVELIntermediateTIME1hour15minutesonedaybefore;1hourthedayofYIELD8arlettes

TIMELINE

ONEDAYBEFOREMakedoughandbutterblock;makethreefoldsTHEDAYOFRollandbake

SPECIALTOOLS

StandmixerwithdoughhookandpaddleattachmentsRulerLargeoffsetspatula

INGREDIENTSPUFFPASTRYDOUGHBreadflour 1cup,plusmoreasneeded

fordusting140grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting

Koshersalt 21/2teaspoons 5grams

Whitevinegar 1/2teaspoon 1gram

Water,cold 1/4cup+1/2tablespoon 75gramsUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 4tablespoons 56grams

BUTTERBLOCKAll-purposeflour 1/3cup+1tablespoon 108grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 8tablespoons 112grams

CINNAMONSUGARGranulatedsugar 2cups 410grams

Groundcinnamon 1tablespoon+1teaspoon 10grams

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEDOUGH

1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,vinegar,coldwater,andbutterinastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeeduntiljustblended,about21/2minutes.Thedoughshouldlookrough—there’sbeennoglutendevelopmentatthisstage.1

2.Dusttheworksurfacewithextrabreadflour.Withyourhands,shapethedoughintoa4-inch(10cm)squareabout3/8inch(1cm)thick.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilchilled,about45minutes.

MAKEBUTTERBLOCK

1.Combinetheall-purposeflourandbutterinastandmixerfittedwithapaddle.Mixonlowspeed,scrapingdownthesidesandbottomofthebowl,untiltherearenostreaksofbutter.Themixtureshouldstillfeellikesoftbutter.

2.Drawa7-inch(18cm)squareonapieceofparchmentpaperwithapencil.Fliptheparchmentoversothatthebutterwon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarks.Placethebutterinthecenterofthesquareandspreaditevenlywithanoffsetspatulatofillthesquare.Refrigerateforabout20minutes,untilfirmbutstillpliable.

3.Removethebutterfromtherefrigerator.Itshouldstillbesoftenoughtobendslightlywithoutcracking.Ifitistoofirm,lightlybeatthebutterwitharollingpinonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilitbecomespliable.Makesuretopressthebutterbacktoitsoriginal7-inch(18cm)squareafterworkingit.

4.Arrangethechilleddoughinthecenterofthebutterblocksoitlookslikeadiamondinthecenterofthesquare(rotated45degrees,withthecornersofthedoughfacingthecenterofthebutterblocksides).

5.Foldthecornersofthebutterblockupandovertothecenterofthedough.Thebutterblockshouldcompletelycoverthedough.Pinchtheseamsofthebutterblocktogethertopreventthedoughfrompeekingthrough.2

MAKEFIRSTFOLD

1.Generouslyflourtheworksurfaceandrollingpin.You’llneedaratherlargeworksurfaceforthistask.Withtherollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rollthebutter-covereddoughoutfromthecentersoittriplesinlength.Whenfinishedrolling,youshouldhavearectangleabout12by61/2by1/4inch(30cmby16.5cmby6mm).3

2.Placethedoughsothelongersidesrunlefttoright.Fromtherightside,foldone-thirdofthedoughontoitself,keepingtheedgeslinedupwitheachother.Fromtheleftside,foldone-thirdofthedoughontopofthesidethathasalreadybeenfolded.Lineupalltheedgessothatyouareleftwithanevenrectangle.Thedoughisbeingfoldedasifitwereapieceofpapergoingintoanenvelope;thisiscalleda“letterfold.”Wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor15to20minutestorest.4

MAKESECONDANDTHIRDFOLDS

1.Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator.Itshouldbefirmbutnothard.(Ifitisnotpliable,letitsitbrieflytosoften.)Placeonalightlyflouredworksurface.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rollthedoughoutfromthecenterverticallyfromtoptobottom.Thedoughshouldtripleinlengthandincreaseinwidth11/2times;thiswilltakeseveralpasses.Whenfinished,youshouldagainhavearectangleabout12by61/2by1/4inch(30cmby16.5cmby6mm).5

2.Rotatethedoughsothelongersidesrunlefttoright.Thistime,fromtherightsidefoldone-quarterofthedoughontoitself.Fromtheleftsidefoldone-quarterofthedoughontoitself.Thetwoendsshouldmeetinthemiddleofthedough.Foldthedoughinhalfwheretheendsmeet.Youwillhave4layersofdoughontopofoneanother.Thisiscalleda“doublebookfold.”Wrapthedoughagaininplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor15to20minutestorest.

3.Repeatthesecond(doublebook)foldagain.Wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

THEDAYOFROLLANDBAKE

1.Combinethegranulatedsugarandcinnamoninasmallbowlusingyourhands.Reserveuntilneeded.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.

2.Removethepuffpastryfromtherefrigerator.Placeitonalightlyflouredworksurface.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rollthedoughoutfromthecenter.Thedoughshouldtripleinlengthandincreaseinwidth11/2times.Thiswilltakeseveralpasses.Whenfinished,youshouldagainhavealongrectangleabout12by61/2by1/4inch(30cmby16.5cmby6mm).Generouslysprinklethedoughwith1/2cupofcinnamonsugarinanevenlayer.6

3.Rotatethedoughsothelongersiderunslefttoright.Startingatthebottom,rollthedoughtightlyintoalogabout1inch(2.5cm)indiameter.Slicethedoughinto8equalsegments,eachabout13/4inches(4.5cm)thickandweighing13/4ounces(50grams).

4.Withthespiralfacinguponeachsegment,flattenthedoughsegmentslightlywiththepalmofyourhanduntileachisaroundabout2inches(5cm)indiameter.Placeonthesheetpan.Refrigeratefor20minutestorest.

5.Whilethedoughisresting,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.Invertahalfsheetpanandplaceasheetofparchmentpaperontheflatside.

6.Sprinklemorecinnamonsugargenerouslyontheworksurface.Placeoneofthepuffpastryroundsonthecinnamonsugar.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rollfromthecenterofthedoughupandthendown.Asthedoughstickstothecounter,sprinklewithmorecinnamonsugar.Repeatuntilyouhavealongovalabout10inches(25cm)longand4inches(10cm)wide.Thedoughshouldbethinenoughtoseethroughit.Gentlyplacethearletteontheparchmentpaper–coveredsheetpan.Repeatwithmoredoughpieces,leaving4inches(10cm)betweenarlettesontheparchment.(Twoarlettesshouldfitoneachhalfsheetpan.Keeptheremainingdoughintherefrigerator.)7

7.Layasecondpieceofparchmentpaperontopofthearlettes.Layasecondhalfsheetpanontopoftheparchment,sandwichingthearlettesbetweenthetwopans.

8.Bakethearlettesonthecenterrackfor9minutes.Rotatethepans180degreesandbake9minutesmore.Removefromtheovenandtakeoffthe

toppanandparchmentpaper.Thearlettesshouldbeadeepgoldenbrown.Letthearlettes,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.

9.Letthepanscool,thenshapeandbaketheremainingarlettesinthesamefashion.

1.Breadflourhasmoreglutenthanall-purposeflour.It’sidealforlaminateddoughsandbread-likedoughsthatwillneedtobeshaped.

2.Wheneverfoldingbutter,itisimportanttoworkswiftlytoensureitdoesn’tmelt.Therearetwodifferenttypesofpuffpastry.Whenthebutterisontheinside,itisregularpuff

pastry.Whenitisontheoutside(asinthecasehere),itisinversepuffpastry,whichcanresultinaflakier,morecaramelizedpastry.

3.Keepingtheshapeofthedoughisveryimportantatthispointtoensureevenlayers.

4.Restingthedoughrelaxestheglutenandkeepsthebutterchilled.

5.Whenrollingoutthedough,it’salwaysbesttohavetheopenseamsonthetoptoensurethelayersremainevenanddon’tslidewhenyouarerolling.

6.Sugardrawsoutmoisturefromdough,soonceitisadded,itisimportanttoworkswiftly.

7.Relaxingthedoughisaveryimportantpartofthisprocess,Makesuretoliftthedoughoffthesurfaceeveryfewpasseswiththerollingpin,allowingittocontractslightly.Thisslightrelaxationwillhelpwiththeshapeofthefinalproduct.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServeatroomtemperature.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSArlettesshouldbeconsumedthedaytheyarebaked.Puffpastrydoughcanbekeptinthefreezer,wrappedwell,forupto1week.

ADVANCEDRECIPES

CHOCOLATECAVIARTART

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...andservingitwithasparklingdessertwine.

SKILL LEVEL Advanced TIME 2 hours 30 minutes one day before; 1 hour 30minutesthedayofYIELD6tarts

TIMELINE

ONEDAYBEFOREMakeganache,softcaramel,tartshells,andchocolatecaviarTHE

DAYOFBaketartshells;makeChantillycream;assemble

SPECIALTOOLS

MediumsieveInstant-readorcandythermometerStandmixerwithpaddleandwhiskattachments3-inch(7.5cm)ringcutter(optional)

Six3-inch(9.5cm)tartringsLargebowl,atleast4inches(10cm)deepPrecisiongramscale(optional)Plasticbottlewithdriptip2uncutpipingbags

2uncutpipingbagsSmalloffsetspatula25/8-inch(6.9cm)ringcutter

INGREDIENTSWHIPPEDCOFFEEGANACHEGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1/2each 1/2each

Coffeebeans 1/4cup 17grams

Heavycream 3/4cup,plusmoreasneeded 190grams,plusmoreasneeded

Whitechocolatechips 1/4cup 42gramsSoftcaramel(page121) 2batches 2batches

CHOCOLATESABLÉTARTSHELLUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 5tablespoons 70grams

Confectioners’sugar 1/3cup 41grams

Wholeegg(large;beat1eggandmeasureouthalf)

1/2each 1/2each(24grams)

Unsweetenedcocoapowder 1/4cup 23gramsAll-purposeflour 1/2cup+1tablespoon,plus

moreasneededfordusting83grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting

Koshersalt 1pinch 1pinch

Almondflour 3tablespoons 17grams

CHOCOLATECAVIARGrapeseedoil(forformingthechocolatecaviar) 71/2cups 1.5kilograms

Gelatinsheet(160bloom)1 31/2each 31/2eachWholemilk 1/2cup+1tablespoon 132grams

Heavycream 1/4cup 58grams

Granulatedsugar 1/4cup 51grams

Powderedagar 3/4teaspoon 2grams

Cocoapaste,finelychopped 3tablespoons 25gramsBlackfoodcoloring,gel 1teaspoonorasneeded 2gramsorasneeded

VANILLACHANTILLYCREAMHeavycream 1cup 240grams

Granulatedsugar 2tablespoons 20grams

Vanillabean(preferablyTahitian),splitlengthwise,seedsscraped

1/2each 1/2each

Goldleaf(optional) 2sheets 2sheets

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEGANACHE

1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(6grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Placethecoffeebeansinaheavyresealableplasticbag.Usingarollingpin,gentlycrushthebeans.

3.Bringtheheavycreamtoaboilinasmallpot.Removefromtheheatandaddthecrushedcoffeebeans.Coverthepotwithplasticwrapandsetitasidetoinfusefor15minutes.

4.Straintheinfusedcreamthroughamediumsieveintoameasuringcup.Addmoreheavycreamtoreturnittotheoriginalamount.Returnthecreamtothesmallpotandbringtoaboilagainovermediumheat.Discardcoffeebeans.

5.Removethecreamfromtheheat.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.

6.Placethewhitechocolatechipsinasmallheatproofbowl.Pourthehotcreamoverthechipsandletstandfor30seconds.

7.Whiskthechipsandcreamuntilhomogeneousandsmooth.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.

MAKESOFTCARAMEL

Makethesoftcaramel,page121.

MAKETARTSHELLS

1.Creamthebutterandconfectioners’sugaronlowspeedinastandmixerfittedwithapaddleuntilcombined,about30seconds.Addtheeggandcontinuetobeatuntilfullyblended.Stopthemixerandusingarubberspatula,scrapedownthesidesofthebowl.Continuetomixuntilsmooth.

2.Combinethecocoapowder,all-purposeflour,salt,andalmondflourinamediumbowl.Slowlyaddthemtothebuttermixture,continuingtomixonlowspeeduntiljustcombined.Scrapedownthesidesofthebowlandmakesuretoreachallthewaytothebottom,wherethedryingredientsmayhavesettled.Mixfor10secondsmore.

3.Usingarubberspatula,removethedoughfromthemixer.Formintoaflatdiskabout3/4inch(2cm)thickonasheetofplasticwrap.Wrapwellandrefrigeratefor30minutestofirmup.

4.Placethedoughonaflouredworksurfaceandrollintoarectangleabout1/8inch(3mm)thick.Cutthedoughwiththeringcutterintoroundsabout1/2inch(1.25cm)largerthanthediameterofthetartringsandplaceonasheetofparchmentpaperonasheetpan.Donotstackthem.Coverthepanwithplasticwrapandreturnthedoughtotherefrigerator.

MAKECHOCOLATECAVIAR

1.Pourthegrapeseedoilintoabowlthatisatleast4inches(10cm)deep.Thisisimportant,asthecaviardropletsmusthaveenoughtimetosetbeforesettlingatthebottomofthebowl.Placethebowlofoilinthefreezerfor3hoursbeforemakingthechocolatecaviar.

2.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(6grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

3.Combinethemilkandcreaminasmallpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Combinethegranulatedsugarandagarandslowlywhiskintotheboilingmilk.Lowertheheattoasimmerandcookfor4minutes.3

4.Removethemilkfromtheheat.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotmilkuntilthegelatinisdissolved.Addthecocoapasteandwhiskuntilsmooth.Addblackfoodcoloringandmixuntilthechocolategeléereachesahomogeneousdarkcolor.Setasidetocooluntilitreachesbetween113°and122°F(45°and50°C).4

5.Transferthechocolategeléetoaplasticbottlewithadriptip.6.Removethegrapeseedoilfromthefreezer.Holdthebottle10inches(26

cm)abovetheoilandusingaback-and-forthmotion,slowlydripthechocolategeléeintothecoldoil.Asthegeléehitstheoil,itwillsinkandsetinamatterofseconds.Sincewaterandoildon’tmix,itwillformperfectlittledroplets.5

7.Whenallthegeléehasbeenpipedintotheoil,drainthechocolatecaviarinasieve.Rinseoffanyextraoilwithcoldrunningwater.Drainwellandtransfertoasmallcontainer.Refrigeratethechocolatecaviaruntilneeded.

THEDAYOFBAKETARTSHELLS

1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandplacethetartringsonthepan.Removethechocolatesablécirclesfromtherefrigerator.Oneatatime,

slightlywarmthedoughbypressingitbetweenyourhands.Thedoughneedstobepliablesothatitcanbepressedintothetartringswithoutbreaking.

2.Centerthecircleontopofatartring,thenslowlypushthedoughtowardthebottom,workingyourwayaroundtheinsideoftheringasyougo.Thedoughshouldfillthetartringandleaveanexcessofdougharoundtheedge.Useaparingknifetotrimthisexcess.Returntheshellstotherefrigeratortochillfor5minutes.

3.Whiletheshellsarechilling,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.

4.Bakethetartshellsonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntildrythroughout.6

5.Removethetartshellsfromtheovenandunmoldwhilestillwarm.Letcoolcompletely.Reserveinanairtightcontaineruntilyou’rereadytofillthem.

MAKECHANTILLYCREAM

Combine theheavycream, sugar,andvanillabean seeds ina standmixer fittedwith a whisk.Whip until cream triples in volume and holds a medium peak.Coverandrefrigerateuntilneeded.

ASSEMBLE

1.Transfertheganachetoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeeduntilitholdsstiffpeaks.

2.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofganacheintoapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthebag.

3.Fillanotherpipingbagwiththesoftcaramel.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Fillthetartshellsone-thirdfullwiththecaramel.

4.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithcoffeeganache.Pipetheganacheontopofthecarameluntilitreachesthetoprimoftheshell.Useasmalloffsetspatulatoleveltheganachetotheheightofthetartshell.

5.Foracleanerfinish,placearingcutterthesamediameterasthetartshellontopofashelltoactasamoldforthechocolatecaviar.Placeaspoonfulortwoofthechocolatecaviarontopofthecoffeeganache.Gentlyspreadthechocolatecaviartocovertheganacheinathin,evenlayer.Removethemold.Continuewiththeremainingtarts.

6.RemovetheChantillycreamfromtherefrigerator.Makeaquenelle:Warmasmallspoonwithhotwater.Tapittodry.DragthespoonthroughtheChantillycreamuntilitisfilled.Turnthespoon180degreesandpullupimmediatelytomakeascoopthatisroundedononeendwithanarrowtipontheother.Placethequenelleofcreamontopofthetartimmediately.7

1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

3.Whenusingagar,itisveryimportanttobeaccuratewithmeasurements.Ihighlysuggestusingaprecisiongramscale.

4.Thistemperaturewillensurethatthegeléesetsquicklywhenithitsthegrapeseedoilandisn’ttoorunny.

5.Trydrippingacrosstheentiresurfaceareaoftheoil,whichwillgivethecaviarachancetosetwithoutstickingtogether.

6.Whencheckingtoseeifthechocolateshellsarebaked,relyonthefeelofthedoughratherthanthecolor.

7. If youarenotconfidentwhen it comes tomakingquenelles, simplyplaceadollopof vanillaChantillycreamonthetopofthetartforarusticlook.Oruseapipingbagtopipethecreaminsmallteardrops.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSLetthetartsitoutfor5minutestotemperbeforeserving.For special occasions, place a small piece of gold leaf on top of the chocolatecaviar.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSThetartshouldbeconsumedwithin24hoursofmaking.Leftovercaramelcanbekeptinaclosedairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto5days.Leftoverwhippedganachecanbekeptinaclosedairtightcontainerin the refrigerator for 1 day. Leftover chocolate caviar can be kept in a closedcontainer in the refrigerator for up to 2 days and is fun to eat—for example,mixedintoicedcoffee.

THEANGRYEGG

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...andbreakingitapartisevenmorefun.

SKILLLEVELAdvancedTIME5hoursYIELD2eggs

SPECIALTOOLS

2eggmolds,5by31/2inches(12.7by9cm)

Wirerack Precisionknife

2conemoldswith1-inch(2.5cm)diameterbase,2inches(5cm)high

Instant-readthermometerTwo3-inch(8cm)roundringmolds

Airbrush(optional)Uncutpipingbagsorparchmentpapercornets

2paletteknives 2acetatesheets,each81/2by11inches(21.7by38cm)

HeatgunColdspray(optional)

INGREDIENTS

Whitechocolate,chopped 14cups 2kilograms

Whitechocolate,chopped 14cups 2kilogramsFat-solubleredfoodcoloring 3tablespoons 30grams

Darkchocolate,chopped 14cups 2kilograms

Red-coloredcocoabutter(optional) asneeded asneeded

Truffles,bonbons,andothertreats asneededtofilltheegg asneededtofilltheegg

Yellowsandingsugar 1/3cup 50grams

MAKEWHITECHOCOLATECOMPONENTS

1.Meltandtemperthewhitechocolate(seepage242).Placeawirerackoverasheetpantocatchexcesschocolatethatdripsfromthemolds.

2.Measureoutthree-quartersofthetemperedwhitechocolateandstirintheredfoodcoloringwitharubberspatulauntilthecolorisuniform.Fillthelargeeggmoldswiththered-coloredchocolateandletthemsitfor30seconds.Invertthemoldsonthewirerackandlettheexcesschocolatedrainout.Theshellshouldbe1/16inch(2mm)thick.Refrigeratetoset.Asthechocolatesetsineachmold,useapaletteknifetoscrapeawayanyexcesschocolatewhilekeepingthemoldinverted.Themoldshouldbeleftwithaverythincoatofredchocolate.

3.Settheremainingwhitechocolateasidetoberetemperedlater.4.Filltheconemoldsallthewaytothetopwithone-quarteroftheuncolored

temperedwhitechocolateforthebeaks.Refrigeratefor3to5minutestoset.

MAKEDARKCHOCOLATECOMPONENTS

1.Drawalarge,thickV-shapefortheeyebrowsonapieceofparchmentpaperwithapencil.Theoutlineshouldbeabout31/2inches(9cm)highand3inches(8cm)wideattheopentopoftheV.Cutouttheshapeandsetaside.

2.Removetheeggmoldsfromtherefrigerator.3.Meltandtemperthedarkchocolate(seepage242).Pourthetempereddark

chocolateintotheeggmoldsontopoftheredchocolate.Letthetemperedchocolatesitinthemoldsfor30seconds.Invertthemoldstolettheexcesschocolatedrainout.Theshellshouldnowbe1/3inch(6mm)thick.Placethemolds(stillinverted)onthewirerack.Whenthechocolatestartstoset,usethepaletteknifetoscrapeawayanyexcesschocolatefromtheedge.Iftheshellisstillalittlethinafterthedarkchocolatesets,addasecondcoat.Refrigerateabout30minutestoset.

4.Meanwhile,lineasheetpanwithanacetatesheet.Placetwo3-inch(8cm)roundringmoldsonthesheetpan.Pourenoughoftheremainingtempereddarkchocolate(whichhasbeencollectedonthesheetpanunderneaththe

wirerack)intotheringmoldstocreateabaseabout1/2inch(1.25cm)thick.Refrigeratetheringmoldstoset.

5.Tocreatetheeyebrows,spreada1/3-inch-thick(6mm)layeroftempereddarkchocolateontoasheetofacetate.Letthechocolatesetuntilitisnolongertacky,4to5minutes.Placethecut-outparchmentV-shapeontopofthesettingchocolate.Usingaprecisionknife,cutalongtheoutlineoftheeyebrow.Transferthechocolateeyebrowtothesheetpanandrefrigeratetoset.Repeatforasecondeyebrow.

6.Settheremainingdarkchocolateasidetoberetemperedlater.

ASSEMBLE

1.Unmoldtheeggsbytappingthecornerofthemoldsontheworksurface.Ifthechocolateistemperedproperly,itshouldpopupimmediately.

2.Bringthepotofwaterbacktoasimmerovermediumheat.Placeaninvertedsheetpanoverthepottowarm.Letthepanheatuntilitisverywarmtothetouch,butnottoohot.Placebothhalvesofanegg,seamsidedown,onthesurfaceofthesheetpanandmovethemaroundabittomelttheedgesslightly.Beforeyousealthechocolateegg,placetruffles,bonbons,orothertreatsinsidethecavity.Pressthehalvesoftheeggtogethertoseal.Holdforafewseconds,thensetaside.Repeatwiththesecondegg.1

3.Placethebaseoftheegg(stillintheringmold)onthesheetpanandmoveitaroundabittomeltitslightly.Youwillcreateaflatbottomforthebase,soitcanstandandsupporttheegg.

4.Letthebasesetintherefrigeratorforafewminutes,leaningonitsside.5.Retempertheremainingdarkchocolateifnecessary,and,usingarubber

spatula,scoopasmallamountintoapipingbagorparchmentpapercornet.Cutanopeningabout3/8inch(1cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.

6.Unmoldabasefromaringmold.Pipeadotoftempereddarkchocolatethesizeofadimeinthecenterofthebase.Removeaneggfromtherefrigerator.Placetheegginthecenterofthebasestandingstraightup.Repeatwiththeothereggandbase.Letthemsetforatleast20minutesatroomtemperatureorsetwiththecoldspray.2

7.Pouryellowsandingsugarontoaplate.Removetheconesofwhitechocolatefromtherefrigeratorandunmoldthem.Withaheatgun,gentlywarmtheoutsideoftheconesandimmediatelyrollintotheyellowsandingsugar.Pipeasmalldotoftempereddarkchocolateontheflatsideofthebeak.Placethebeakonthecenteroftheeggandsetthechocolatewiththe

coldspray,orsimplyholditforafewminutesandthenrefrigeratetohelpitfurtherset.

8.Retempertheremainingwhiteanddarkchocolateandplaceintoseparatecornets.

9.Tocreatetheeyes,pipeadotoftemperedwhitechocolatealittlebitbiggerthanthesizeofaquarteronasheetofacetate.Immediatelypipeadotoftempereddarkchocolateinthecenterforthepupil.Repeatforthethreeremainingeyes.Letthemsetforafewminutesandplaceintherefrigeratorifnecessary.Pipeasmalldotoftempereddarkchocolateinthecenterbehindeacheye.Placetheeyesjustabovethebeakandsetwiththecoldsprayorholdwithyourfingerforafewminutes.

10.Pipeasmalldotoftempereddarkchocolateinthecenterofaneyebrow.Placejustabovetheeyesandsetwiththecoldspray,orholdwithyourfingerforafewmomentsuntilset.Repeatwiththeothereggandeyebrow.

1.Forevenreddereggs,fillanairbrushwithmeltedredcocoabutterandlightlyspraytheoutsideoftheeggs.Refrigeratetheeggsagain.

2.Whilethecoldsprayisnotnecessary,itdoesspeeduptheangryegg’sdryingprocess.Simplyspraythebaseandeggonceadhered.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONSThe tradition is tohide theeggatEaster. Just rememberthattherealfunafteryoufinditistobreakitopenandeatit!

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONSCanbe kept in a closed airtight container in a cool dryplace,awayfromdirectlight,forupto1week.

DOMINIQUE’SKOUIGNAMANNS(DKA)

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseitcanonlybeeatenfreshandwillchangeyourlifewhenyoudo.

SKILLLEVELAdvancedTIME3hours

YIELD10to12DKAs

SPECIALTOOLS

StandmixerwithdoughhookattachmentRulerLargeoffsetspatulaSiliconebakingmat10to12roundringmolds,23/4inch(7cm)diameterStainlesssteeltongs

INGREDIENTS

Breadflour 3cups+2tablespoons 472grams

Koshersalt 2tablespoons 12grams

Water,verycold 11/3cups+21/2tablespoons

313grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 26tablespoons 364grams

Instantyeast(preferablySAFGoldLabel)1 11/2teaspoons 4gramsNonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded

All-purposeflour(fordusting) asneeded asneeded

Granulatedsugar about13/4cups about360grams

MAKEDOUGH

1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,water,1tablespoon(14grams)ofthebutter,andtheyeastinastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeedfor2minutestocombine.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandbeatfor10minutes.Whenfinished,thedoughwillbesmoothandslightlytackyandwillhavefullglutendevelopment.Testbystretchingit—thedoughwillhavesomeelasticity.

2.Lightlygreaseamediumbowlwithnonstickcookingspray.Transferthedoughtothebowl.Coverlooselywithplasticwrapandproofatroomtemperatureuntildoubledinsize,about1hour.

3.Punchdownthedoughbyfoldingtheedgesintothecenter,releasingasmuchofthegasaspossible,andturnitoutontoalargesheetofplasticwrap.Usingyourpalms,pressittoforma10-inch(25cm)square.Wrapittightlyintheplasticwrapandplaceinthefreezerfor15minutes.

4.Flipthedoughandreturnittothefreezerforanother15minutessothatitchillsevenly.

MAKEBUTTERBLOCK

1.Whilethedoughischilling,drawa7-inch(18cm)squareonapieceofparchmentpaperwithapencil.Fliptheparchmentoversothatthebutterwon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarks.Placetheremaining25tablespoons(350grams)butterinthecenterofthesquareandspreaditevenlywithanoffsetspatulatofillthesquare.Refrigeratethebutteruntilfirmbutstillpliable,about20minutes.2

2.Removethebutterfromtherefrigerator.Itshouldstillbesoftenoughtobendslightlywithoutcracking.Ifitistoofirm,lightlybeatitwitharollingpinonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilitbecomespliable.Makesuretopressthebutterbacktoitsoriginal7-inch(18cm)squareafterworkingit.

3.Removethedoughfromthefreezer;makesureitisverycoldthroughout.Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface.Arrangethebutterblock

inthecenterofthedoughsoitlookslikeadiamondinthecenterofthesquare(rotated45degrees,withthecornersofthebutterfacingthecenterofthedoughsides).Pullthecornersofthedoughupandovertothecenterofthebutterblock.Pinchtheseamsofthedoughtogethertosealthebutterinside.Youshouldhaveasquareslightlylargerthanthebutterblock.

4.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rollthedoughoutfromthecentersothatittriplesinlength.Thiswilltakeseveralpasses.Useextraflourtodusttheworksurfacetoensurethatnothingsticks.Whenfinished,youshouldhavearectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/3inch(6mm)thick.3

MAKEFIRSTTHREEFOLDS

1.Placethedoughsothelongersidesrunlefttoright.Fromtherightsidefoldone-thirdofthedoughontoitself,keepingtheedgeslinedupwitheachother.Fromtheleftsidefoldtheremainingone-thirdofdoughontopofthesidethathasalreadybeenfolded.Lineupalltheedgessothatyouareleftwithanevenrectangle.Thedoughisbeingfoldedasifitwereapieceofpapergoingintoanenvelope;thisiscalleda“letterfold.”Donotrestthedoughandimmediatelymoveontothenextfold.4

2.Startingwiththeseamofthedoughontheright,rolloutthedough,verticallyfromtoptobottom,toarectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/3inch(6mm)thick.Repeattheletterfold.

3.Immediatelyrolloutthedoughagaintoarectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/3inch(6mm)thickexactlyasinstep2.Repeattheletterfold.Wrapthedoughinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor30to40minutestorest.

MAKEFOURTHFOLD

Sprinklesugarinathin,evenlayerontheworksurface(asifyouwereflouringthe work surface, but using sugar instead). Lay out the dough on the sugar.Startingwiththeseamofthedoughontheright,rolloutthedoughoncemore,verticallyfromtoptobottom,toarectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and 1/3 inch (6 mm) thick. Sprinkle a thin, even layer of sugar on the top.Repeattheletterfold.5

ROLL,SHAPE,ANDBAKE

1.Sprinkleanotherthin,evenlayerofsugarontheworksurface.Placethedoughonthesugar.Startingwiththeseamontheright,rolloutthedough

onefinaltimetoarectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/3inch(6mm)thick.Sprinkleanotherthinlayerofsugarontop.

2.Usingachef’sknife,cutthedoughinto4-inch(10cm)squares.Eachsquareshouldweighabout31/2ounces(100grams).Sprinklealittlebitmoresugarontheworksurface.Foldinthecornersofeachsquaretomeetatthecenter,pushingthecenterdownfirmly.Repeatwiththenewcornersthatwereformed,againpushingdownfirmlyinthecenter.

3.Lineahalfsheetpanwithasiliconebakingmat.Spraylightlywithnonsticksprayandsprinklewithenoughgranulatedsugartojustlightlycoatit.Placetheringmolds4inches(10cm)apartonthepan.

4.Placeasquareofdoughinthecenterofeachring.Thedoughwillhangovertheedgesofthemold.FoldtheexcessdoughintothecenteroftheDKAandpressdownfirmly.Proofatroomtemperature,15to20minutes.

5.WhiletheDKAsareproofing,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento365°F(185°C)forconventionalor340°F(170°C)forconvection.

6.BaketheDKAsonthecenterrackfor15minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor15minutesmore.TheDKAsarefinishedwhentheyturngoldenbrownandhaveaboutdoubledinsize.

7.Removefromtheoven.Usingapairofstainless-steeltongs,unmoldtheDKAsontoasheetpanwhilestillhot:GrabthemetalringswiththetongsandfliptheDKAsoversotheflatsideisup.Removetherings.LettheDKAscoolcompletely,stillinverted.

1.Instantyeastisoftenusedfordoughswithhighersugarcontent,becausethisyeastneedslesswatertoreactandsugartendstopullwaterfromdough.Youcansubstitutethesamequantityofactivedryyeast,butmaygetadenserfinalproduct.

2. When making the DKA, speed is very important. Work the dough as quickly as possible,otherwise it will soften and the butter will push out of the seams. This results in a dense anddoughyproduct.

3. Keeping the dough’s rectangular shape is very important at this point to ensure even layersthroughouttheprocess.Youwillneedalargeareatorolloutthedough.

4. When making the DKA, speed is very important. Work the dough as quickly as possible,otherwise it will soften and the butter will push out of the seams. This results in a dense anddoughyproduct.

5.Workquicklywhenyouaddthesugar,asitwillstarttodrawoutmoisturefromthedoughandmakethesurfacewet.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONSEnjoy at room temperature. If you are looking formoreadventure,sliceaDKAinhalfhorizontallyandaddascoopoficecreamtomakeanicecreamsandwich.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSDKAsshouldbeconsumedwithin6hoursofbaking.

MAGICSOUFFLÉ

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...fortherealpastrybuffswhoappreciatethedelicatenatureofitsconstruction.

SKILLLEVELAdvancedTIME1hour30minutesonedaybefore;1hourthedayofYIELD6soufflés

TIMELINE

ONEDAYBEFOREMakeganache,dough,andsouffléTHEDAYOFAssemble,proof,andbake

SPECIALTOOLS

Instant-readthermometerStandmixerwithdoughhookandwhiskattachmentsSiphonwithcarboncharger

6rectangularringmolds21/2by13/4by13/4inches(6.5by4.5by4.5cm)

INGREDIENTSCHOCOLATEGANACHE

CHOCOLATEGANACHEHeavycream 1/3cup+3tablespoons 100grams

Darkchocolate(70%cocoacontent),finelychopped

1/2cup 90grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 2tablespoons+1teaspoon 30grams

ORANGEBLOSSOMBRIOCHEBreadflour 2cups 280gramsKoshersalt 1tablespoon 6grams

Granulatedsugar 1/3cup 51grams

Instantyeast(preferablySAFGoldLabel)1 2teaspoons 5grams

Wholeeggs(large) 4each 4each(200grams)

Wholemilk 1tablespoon 15gramsUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),cold,cutinsmalldice

13tablespoons 183grams

Orangeoil 1/2teaspoon 1gram

Gratedorangezest 1orange 1orange

Orangeblossomwater 1teaspoon 5grams

Nonstickcookingspray asneeded asneededAll-purposeflour(fordusting) asneeded asneeded

CHOCOLATESOUFFLÉDarkchocolate(70%cocoacontent),finelychopped

1/2cup 98grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 61/2tablespoons 91grams

Granulatedsugar 1/2cup+3tablespoons 140grams

All-purposeflour 1/3cup 30gramsBakingpowder 21/2tablespoons 10grams

Wholeeggs(large) 3each 3each(150grams)

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEGANACHE

1.Bringthecreamtoaboilinamediumpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

2.Placethechocolateinasmallheatproofbowlandpourthehotcreamoverit.Letstandfor30seconds.

3.Whiskthechocolateandhotcreamuntilsmooth.Setasidetocool.Whentheganachereaches122°F(50°C),whiskinthebutteruntilfullyblended.2

4.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigeratefor2hourstoset.

MAKEDOUGH

1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,sugar,yeast,andeggsinastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeeduntilthedoughformsaball.Slowlypourinthemilkandmixonlowuntilcombined.Increasethespeedtomedium-highfor6to8minutesmoretodevelopthegluten,whichwillhelpthedoughholditsstructure.Itshouldpulloffthesidesofthebowlcleanlywhenit’sready.Checkthedoughusingthe“windowpanetest”(seepage151).

2.Whenthedoughhasreachedfullglutendevelopment,addthebutter,keepingthemixeronmedium-highspeed.Mixjustuntilthebutterisincorporated.Addtheorangeoil,orangezest,andorangeblossomwaterandmixuntilfullyincorporated.Thefinisheddoughshouldbesmooth,shiny,andsticky.

3.Lightlygreaseamediumbowlwithnonstickcookingspray.Transferthedoughtothebowl.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthedough,topreventaskinfromforming.Proofthedoughatroomtemperature(nowarmerthan75°F/24°C)untildoubledinsize,about1hour30minutes.

4.Removetheplasticwrapandpunchdownthedoughbyfoldingtheedgesintothecenter,releasingasmuchofthegasaspossible.Coverthedoughagainwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyonthesurface.Refrigerateovernighttorelaxthegluten.

MAKESOUFFLÉ

1.Meltthechocolateandbutterinasmallbowlonhighpowerin20-secondintervalsinthemicrowave,stirringwithaheatproofspatulabetweenintervals,untilsmooth.

2.Combinethegranulatedsugar,all-purposeflour,bakingpowder,andeggsinastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Mixonlowspeedforafewminutesuntiljustincorporated.

3.Withthemixeronlowspeed,streaminthemeltedchocolateandbutter.Witharubberspatula,scrapedownthesidesofthebowl.Whiponhighspeedfor3minutes,untilthebatterissmooth.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyagainstthesurfaceofthebatterandrefrigeratefor1hour.

4.Whilethesoufflébatterischilling,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.

5.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofsoufflébatterinasiphon,sothatitishalffull.

6.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandarrangetherectangularringmoldsabout2inches(5cm)apart.Greasetheinsidesofthemoldswithnonstickspray.Pipesoufflébatterintothemoldsuntiltheyareabouthalfwayfull.Addadollopofchocolateganachewithaspoontothecenterofeachmold.Coverwithsoufflébattertofill.Bakefor4minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor4minutesmore.

7.Whenfullybaked,placethesoufflés,stillinthemolds,inthefreezertosetovernight.

THEDAYOFASSEMBLEANDPROOF

1.Pullone-thirdofthedoughfromtherefrigerator.Onalightlyflouredsurface,usearollingpintorolloutthedoughintoarectanglemeasuring20by10inches(50by25cm).Placeonasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaperandrefrigerate.Letthedoughrestintherefrigeratorfor30minutestorelaxthegluten.

2.Usingachef’sknife,cutthebriochedoughinto6by3–inch(15by8cm)strips.Returnthecutdoughtotherefrigeratoruntilneeded.

3.Runathin-bladedknifearoundtheinsideoftheringmoldsandliftoffthemoldtounmoldthechocolatesoufflés.Placeasouffléinthecenterofarectangleofbriocheandwrapthebriochearoundthesouffléastightlyaspossible.Foldandpinchtheendsofthebriochetogethertocoverthetopandbottomofthesoufflé.Cutoffanyexcessdoughwithaparingknife.Repeatuntilalltheremainingsoufflésarewrapped.3

4.Washanddrytheringmolds.Lightlygreasetheinsideofthemoldswithnonstickspray.Placeeachwrappedsouffléinsideofamold(itwillbeaverytightfit).Transferthemoldstoasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaper.

5.Lightlylayapieceofplasticwrapoverthemagicsoufflés.Proofthematroomtemperatureuntiltheyreachthetopofthemold,about2hours.

6.Returnthemagicsouffléstothefreezertochillfor1hour.

BAKE

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento400°F(205°C)forconventionalor375°F(190°C)forconvection.

2.Removetheplasticwrapandlayapieceofparchmentpaperontopofthesoufflés,followedbyasecondsheetpan.Thishelpscompressthemwhiletheybake.Ifyoudonothaveasecondsheetpan,substitutesomethingofequalweight—justmakesuretheobjecthasaflatbottom.

3.Bakethesoufflésonthecenterrackfor5minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor5minutesmoreoruntiltheyaregoldenbrown.4Removefromtheovenandunmoldimmediately.Theyareunlikelytostick.

4.Letcoolfor5minutesbeforeserving.

1.Ifyouaddthebutterwhile theganache isstillhot, thebutterwillmeltandtheganachewillhaveagrainyconsistencywhenitsets.

2.Thisrecipeyieldsmorebriochethanneeded.Baketheextradoughandenjoyabriocherollforbreakfast.

3.Whencoveringthesouffléwiththebriochedough,justthinkofitasapresentyou’rewrapping.Youdon’twantpeopletoseewhatisinside,somakesurethesouffléiscompletelycovered.

4. If you’re using a conventional oven, you will have to turn the soufflés over after the first 5minutesso that thebottom is facingup.Withconventionalovens theheatcomesonly from thebottom,whichmeansthebottomwillbakemuchmorequicklythanthetop.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSServewithin15minutesofbakingtoensurethecenterisstillmolten.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS This does not store well, unfortunately, as the moltencenterwilldryoutovertime.Theleftoverdoughcanbebakedforbreakfast.

THEAT-HOMECRONUT™PASTRY

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...because—whatcanIsay?—itchangedtheworld.Thisisaversiondesignedforthehomecook.

SKILLLEVELAdvanced

TIME1hourtwodaysbefore;1houronedaybefore;2hoursthedayofYIELD12At-HomeCronut™pastries

TIMELINE

TWO DAYS BEFOREMake ganache,At-HomeCronut™pastry dough, andbutterblockONEDAYBEFORELaminateTHEDAYOFCutandfrydough;makeglazeandflavoredsugar;assemble

SPECIALTOOLS

StandmixerwithdoughhookandwhiskattachmentsRulerLargeoffsetspatula31/2-inch(9cm)ringcutter1inch(2.5cm)ringcutterDeep-fryingthermometer

Deep-fryingthermometer2uncutpipingbagsWilton#230BismarckmetaltiporotherBismarcktubeAteco#803plaintip(5/16-inch/0.8cmdiameter)

INGREDIENTS

Ganacheofyourchoice(pages205to207) 1batch 1batch

Flavoredsugarofyourchoice (page208)

Glazeofyourchoice(page208)

AT-HOMECRONUT™PASTRYDOUGHBreadflour 33/4cups,plusmoreas

neededfordusting525grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting

Koshersalt 1tablespoon+2teaspoons 6grams

Granulatedsugar 1/4cup+1tablespoon 64gramsInstantyeast(preferablySAFGoldLabel)1 1tablespoon+11/2

teaspoons11grams

Water,cold 1cup+2tablespoons 250grams

Eggwhite(large) 1each 1each(30grams)

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 8tablespoons 112grams

Heavycream 1tablespoon 15gramsNonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded

BUTTERBLOCKUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 18tablespoons 251grams

Grapeseedoil asneeded asneeded

Glazeofyourchoice(page208) asneeded asneeded

Decoratingsugarofyourchoice(page208) asneeded asneeded

TWODAYSBEFOREMAKEGANACHE

Prepare one of the ganache recipes on pages 205 to 207 and refrigerate untilneeded.

MAKEAT-HOMECRONUT™PASTRYDOUGH

1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,sugar,yeast,water,eggwhites,butter,andcreaminastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixuntiljustcombined,

about3minutes.Whenfinishedthedoughwillberoughandhaveverylittleglutendevelopment.

2.Lightlygreaseamediumbowlwithnonstickcookingspray.Transferthedoughtothebowl.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyonthesurfaceofthedough,topreventaskinfromforming.Proofthedoughinawarmspotuntildoubledinsize,2to3hours.

3.Removetheplasticwrapandpunchdownthedoughbyfoldingtheedgesintothecenter,releasingasmuchofthegasaspossible.Onapieceofparchmentpaper,shapeintoa10-inch(25cm)square.Transfertoasheetpan,stillontheparchmentpaper,andcoverwithplasticwrap.Refrigerateovernight.

MAKEBUTTERBLOCK

Drawa7-inch(18cm)squareonapieceofparchmentpaperwithapencil.Flipthe parchment over so that the butter won’t come in contact with the pencilmarks.Placethebutter inthecenterofthesquareandspreaditevenlywithanoffsetspatulatofillthesquare.Refrigerateovernight.

ONEDAYBEFORELAMINATE

1.Removethebutterfromtherefrigerator.Itshouldstillbesoftenoughtobendslightlywithoutcracking.Ifitisstilltoofirm,lightlybeatitwitharollingpinonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilitbecomespliable.Makesuretopressthebutterbacktoitsoriginal7-inch(18cm)squareafterworkingit.

2.Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator,makingsureitisverycoldthroughout.Placethedoughonaflouredworksurface.Usingtherollingpin,rolloutthedoughtoa10-inch(25.5cm)squareabout1inch(2.5cm)thick.Arrangethebutterblockinthecenterofthedoughsoitlookslikeadiamondinthecenterofthesquare(rotated45degrees,withthecornersofthebutterblockfacingthecenterofthedoughsides).Pullthecornersofthedoughupandovertothecenterofthebutterblock.Pinchtheseamsofdoughtogethertosealthebutterinside.Youshouldhaveasquareslightlylargerthanthebutterblock.

3.Verylightlydusttheworksurfacewithflourtoensurethedoughdoesn’tstick.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rolloutthedoughfromthecenter.Whenfinished,youshouldhavea20-inch(50cm)squareabout1/4inch(6mm)thick.3

4.Foldthedoughinhalfhorizontally,makingsuretolineuptheedgessoyouareleftwitharectangle.Thenfoldthedoughvertically.Youshouldhavea10-inch(25.5cm)squareofdoughwith4layers.Wraptightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hour.

5.Repeatsteps3and4.Covertightlywithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

THEDAYOFCUTDOUGH

1.Onalightlyflouredworksurface,rolloutthedoughtoa15-inch(40cm)squareabout1/2inch(1.3cm)thick.Transferthedoughtoahalfsheetpan,coverwithplasticwrap,andrefrigeratefor1hourtorelax.

2.Usinga31/2-inch(9cm)ringcutter,cut12rounds.Cutoutthecenterofeachroundwitha1-inch(2.5cm)ringcuttertocreatethedoughnutshape.

3.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandlightlydusttheparchmentwithflour.PlacetheAt-HomeCronut™pastriesonthepan,spacingthemabout3inches(8cm)apart.Lightlysprayapieceofplasticwrapwithnonsticksprayandlayitontopofthepastries.Proofinawarmspotuntiltripledinsize,about2hours.±

FRYDOUGH

1.Heatthegrapeseedoilinalargepotuntilitreaches350°F(175°C).Useadeep-fryingthermometertoverifythattheoilisattherighttemperature.4Lineaplatterwithseverallayersofpapertowelsfordrainingthepastries.

2.Gentlyplace3or4ofthematatimeintothehotoil.Fryforabout90secondsoneachside,flippingonce,untilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheoilwithaslottedspoonanddrainonthepapertowels.

3.Checkthattheoilisattherighttemperature.Ifnot,letitheatupagainbeforefryingthenextbatch.Continueuntilallofthemarefried.

4.Letcoolcompletelybeforefilling.

MAKEGLAZE

Preparetheglazeonpage208thatcorrespondstoyourchoiceofganache.

MAKEFLAVOREDSUGAR

Prepare the decorating sugar on page 208 that corresponds to your choice ofganache.

ASSEMBLE

1.Transfertheganachetoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeeduntiltheganacheholdsastiffpeak.(IfusingtheChampagne-chocolateganache,simplywhiskituntilsmooth.Itwillbequitethickalready.)2.CutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfittheBismarcktip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofganacheinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthebag.

3.Placethedecoratingsugarthatcorrespondstoyourchoiceofganacheandglazeinabowl.

4.ArrangeeachAt-HomeCronutTMpastrysothattheflattersideisfacingup.Injecttheganachethroughthetopofthepastryinfourdifferentspots,evenlyspaced.Asyoupipetheganache,youshouldfeelthepastrygettingheavierinyourhand.

5.Placethepastryonitsside.Rollinthecorrespondingsugar,coatingtheoutsideedges.

6.Iftheglazehascooled,microwaveitforafewsecondstowarmuntilsoft.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#803plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,transfertheglazetothebag.Pushtheglazedowntowardthetipofthebag.

7.PipearingofglazearoundthetopofeachAt-HomeCronutpastry,makingsuretocoveralltheholescreatedfromthefilling.Keepinmindthattheglazewillcontinuetospreadslightlyasitcools.Lettheglazesetforabout15minutesbeforeserving.

1.Instantyeastisoftenusedfordoughswithhighersugarcontent,becausethisyeastneedslesswatertoreactandsugartendstopullwaterfromdough.Youcansubstitutethesamequantityofactivedryyeast,butmaygetadenserfinalproduct.

2.Thisisnotthetypicallaminationtechniqueandisuniquetothisrecipe.When rolling out dough, you want to use as little flour as possible. The more flour you

incorporate into the dough, the tougher it will be to roll out, and when you fry the At-HomeCronut™pastriestheywillflakeapart.

3.It’sbesttoproofAt-HomeCronutpastriesinawarm,humidplace.Butiftheproofingareaistoo warm, the butter will melt, so do not place the pastries on top of the oven or near anotherdirectsourceofheat.

4.Thetemperatureoftheoil isveryimportanttothefryingprocess.If it istoolow,thepastrieswillbegreasy;toohigh,theinsidewillbeundercookedwhiletheoutsideisburnt.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONSBecause theAt-HomeCronut™pastry is cream-filled, itmustbeservedatroomtemperature.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSConsumewithin8hoursoffrying.Leftoverganachecanbe stored in a closed airtight container in the refrigerator for 2 days. Leftoverflavoredsugarcankeepinaclosedairtightcontainerforweeksandcanbeusedtomaceratefruitsorsweetendrinks.

GANACHES

VANILLAROSEGANACHE

YIELDGanachefor12At-HomeCronut™pastries

INGREDIENTS

Gelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1each 1eachHeavycream 13/4cups 406grams

Vanillabean(preferablyTahitian),1each1each splitlengthwise,seedsscraped

Whitechocolate,finelychopped 1/2cup 90grams

Rosewater 4tablespoons 50grams

1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1teaspoon(2.3grams)gelatinover1tablespoon(15grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Combinetheheavycreamandvanillabeanseedsinasmallpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

3.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothecreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.

4.Placethewhitechocolateinasmallheatproofbowl.Pourthehotcreamoverthechocolateandletstandfor30seconds.

5.Whiskthewhitechocolateandhotcreamuntilsmooth.Addtherosewaterandwhiskuntilfullyblended.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.

1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

WHIPPEDLEMONGANACHE

YIELDGanachefor12At-HomeCronut™pastries

INGREDIENTS

Gelatinsheet(160bloom)1 2each 2eachHeavycream 3/4cup+2tablespoons 188grams

Gratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon

Granulatedsugar 1/4cup 51grams

Whitechocolate,finelychopped 3/4cup 117gramsLemonjuice 1/2cup+1tablespoon 141grams

1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(5grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Combinethecream,lemonzest,andsugarinasmallpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

3.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothecreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.

4.Placethewhitechocolateinasmallheatproofbowl.Pourthehotcreamoverthechocolateandletstandfor30seconds.

5.Whiskthewhitechocolateandhotcreamuntilsmooth.Lettheganachecooltoroomtemperature.

6.Whiskinthelemonjuice.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.

1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

CHAMPAGNE-CHOCOLATEGANACHE

YIELDGanachefor12At-HomeCronut™pastries

INGREDIENTS

Water 2tablespoons 26gramsChampagne 1/4cup+2tablespoons 102grams

Unsweetenedcocoapowder 11/2tablespoons 9grams

Heavycream 1/2cup 115grams

Eggyolks(large) 3each 3each(60grams)Granulatedsugar 3tablespoons 38grams

Darkchocolate(66%cocoacontent),finelychopped

1cup+1tablespoon 165grams

1.Combinethewater,2tablespoons(26grams)oftheChampagne,andthecocoapowderinasmallbowl.Mixtoasmoothpaste.

2.Combinethecreamandtheremaining1/4cup(76grams)Champagneinasmallpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

3.Whisktheeggyolksandgranulatedsugartogetherinasmallbowl.Streamone-thirdofthehotcreammixtureintotheeggyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremaininghotcream.Returnthepottomediumheat.

4.Keepwhisking!Continuetocookthecustardovermediumheatuntilitreaches185°F(85°C).Thecustardwillturnpaleyellowandthickensothatitcoatsthebackofaspoon.Removefromtheheatandwhiskinthecocoapowderpasteuntilfullyincorporated.

5.Placethechocolateinamediumheatproofbowl.Strainthecustardthroughasmallsieveoverthechocolate.Letstandfor30seconds.

6.Whiskthechocolateandcustarduntilsmooth.Whenfinished,theganachewillhavetheconsistencyofyogurt.Reserve1/4cup(50grams)fortheglaze.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.

FLAVOREDSUGARS

YIELDAbout1cup(200grams)each

INGREDIENTSVANILLASUGARGranulatedsugar 1cup 205gramsVanillabean(preferablyTahitian),splitlengthwise,seedsscraped

1each 1each

MAPLESUGARGranulatedmaplesugar 1cup 200grams

Gratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon

ORANGESUGARGranulatedsugar 1cup 205gramsGratedorangezest 1orange 1orange

Combinethesugaranditsflavoringinasmallbowl.Reserveuntilneeded.

GLAZES

YIELDAbout1/2cup(200grams)each

INGREDIENTSROSEGLAZEGlazingfondant1 1/2cup 200gramsRosewater 2tablespoons 30grams

LEMONGLAZEGlazingfondant1 1/2cup 200grams

Gratedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon

CHAMPAGNE-CHOCOLATEGLAZEGlazingfondant1 1/2cup 200gramsChampagne-chocolateganache(page207) 1/4cup 50grams

Warm the fondant in a small bowl in the microwave in 10-second intervals,stirringbetweenintervals.Whenthefondantisslightlywarm,about20seconds,addthecorrespondingflavorandstiruntilfullyblended.

1.Glazingfondantisalsoknownas“fondanticing”or“pastryfondant.”Itissimilartoroyalicingbutremainsshinywhenitsets.

IBÉRICOANDMAHÓNCROISSANT

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...astheperfectbrunchitemandanamazingafternoonsnack.

SKILLLEVELAdvancedTIME1hour30minutestwodaysbefore;2hoursonedaybefore;1hourthedayofYIELD12to15croissants

TIMELINE

TWO DAYS BEFORE Make dough; prepare pork fat and dried ham; make butterblockONEDAYBEFOREMakethreefolds;roll,fill,andshapeTHEDAYOFBake

SPECIALTOOLS

Standmixerwithdoughhookattachment(andpaddleattachment,optional)Ruler

LargeoffsetspatulaPastrybrush

INGREDIENTSCROISSANTDOUGHBreadflour 33/4cups,plusmoreas

neededfordusting525grams,plusmoreasneededfordusting

Koshersalt 1tablespoon+1teaspoon 10grams

Granulatedsugar 1/3cup+1tablespoon 80grams

Instantyeast(preferablySAFGoldLabel)1 1tablespoon+2teaspoons 13gramsWater 1cup 250grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 8tablespoons 112grams

Nonstickcookingspray asneeded asneeded

Ibéricoham,verythinlysliced 24to30slices 24to30slices

BUTTERBLOCKUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat),softened 16tablespoons 224gramsRenderedporkfat(step1,below) 1tablespoon 13grams

Mahóncheese,sliced 12to15slices 12to15slices

Mahóncheese,grated 1/3cup,looselypacked 30grams

Eggwash(2eggs,1pinchsalt,andadashofmilk,beatentogether)

asneeded asneeded

TWODAYSBEFOREMAKEDOUGH

1.Combinethebreadflour,salt,sugar,yeast,water,andbutterinastandmixerfittedwithadoughhook.Mixonlowspeedabout3minutes,untiljustcombined.Whenfinished,thedoughwillberoughandhaveverylittleglutendevelopment.

2.Lightlygreaseamediumbowlwithnonstickspray.Transferthedoughintothebowlandcoverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyonthedough,topreventaskinfromforming.Proofthedoughinawarmspotuntildoubledinsize,1hour30minutesto2hours.

3.Removetheplasticwrapandpunchdownthedoughbyfoldingtheedgesintothecenter,releasingasmuchofthegasaspossible.Onapieceofparchmentpaper,shapethedoughintoa10-inch(25cm)square.Placethedough,stillontheparchmentpaper,onasheetpanandcoverwithplasticwrap.Refrigerateovernight.

PREPAREPORKFATANDDRIEDHAM

1.TrimthefatfromtheedgesofallslicesofIbéricoham.Cookthetrimmingsinasmallpotoverlowheatuntilthefathasliquefied.Strainthroughasmall

sieveintoasmallbowl.Discardanysolidsleftinthesieve.Coverthebowloffatwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforabout30minutes,untilsolid.

2.Whilethefatischilling,placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Lineaplatterwithpapertowels.

3.Set15piecesofhamaside.Thesewillbeusedtorollinsidethecroissants.Layouttheremainingslicesofhamonthelinedpan.Bakeonthecenterrackforabout10minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor10minutesmoreoruntiltheslicesarecrispythroughout.Drainandcoolthehamslicesonthepapertowels.Whencompletelycooled,chopintosmallbits.Youshouldhaveabout1tablespoon(60grams),looselypacked.

MAKEBUTTERBLOCK

1.Combinethebutter,therenderedfat,andchoppedhaminastandmixerfittedwithapaddleandmixonlowspeeduntilblended.Trynottoincorporatetoomuchair.

2.Drawa7-inch(18cm)squareonapieceofparchmentpaperwithapencil.Fliptheparchmentoversothatthebuttermixturewon’tcomeincontactwiththepencilmarks.Placethebutterinthecenterofthesquareandspreaditevenlywithanoffsetspatulatofillthesquare.Refrigerateovernight.

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKETHREEFOLDS

1.Removethebuttermixturefromtherefrigerator.Itshouldstillbesoftenoughtobendslightlywithoutcracking.Ifitistoofirm,lightlybeatitwitharollingpinonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilitbecomespliable.Makesuretopressthebutterbacktoits7-inch(18cm)squareafterworkingit.

2.Removethedoughfromtherefrigerator,makingsureitisverycoldthroughout.Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface.Arrangethebutterblockinthecenterofthedoughsoitlookslikeadiamondinthecenterofthesquare(rotated45degrees,withthecornersofthebutterblockfacingthecenterofthedoughsides).Pullthecornersofthedoughupandovertothecenterofthebutterblock.Pinchtheseamsofdoughtogethertosealthebutterinside.Youshouldhaveasquareslightlylargerthanthebutterblock.

3.Lightlydusttheworksurfacewithflourtoensurethatthedoughwon’tstick.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rolloutthedoughfromthe

centersothatittriplesinlength.Thiswilltakeseveralpasses.Whenfinished,youshouldhavearectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/4inch(6mm)thick.

4.Placethedoughsothelongersidesrunlefttoright.Fromtherightside,foldone-thirdofthedoughontoitself,keepingtheedgeslinedupwitheachother.Fromtheleftside,foldtheremainingone-thirdofdoughontopofthesidethathasalreadybeenfolded.Lineupalltheedgessothatyouareleftwithasquare.Thedoughisbeingfoldedasifitwereapieceofpapergoingintoanenvelope,sothisiscalleda“letterfold.”Wrapthedoughtightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforabout1hourtorelaxthegluten.

5.Repeatsteps3and4foryoursecondfold.6.Withtheseamalwaysontheright,rolloutthedoughverticallyfromtopto

bottom,rotatethedough90degrees,andrepeattheletterfoldoncemore.Dothisagain,makingathirdletterfold,withtheseamstotheright.Refrigeratethedoughfor1hourbetweenfolds.Wrapthedoughtightlyinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hour.

7.Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface.Witharollingpin,usingsteady,evenpressure,rolloutthedoughfromthecenterverticallyfromtoptobottomsothatittriplesinlength.Thiswilltakeseveralpasses.Whenfinished,youshouldhavearectangleabout24by10inches(60by25cm)and1/4inch(6mm)thick.Coveritlightlywithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hourtorest.2

8.Lightlyflourtheworksurfaceandlaythedoughflat.Usingaruler,startingfromtheleftside,scorethedoughevery3inches(8cm)alongthebottomedgeuntilyoureachtherightsideofthedough.Makethefirstscoreonthetopedge11/2inches(4cm)fromtheleftend.Continuescoringthetopedgeevery3inches(8cm).Thesestaggeredmarksshouldgiveaniceguidelineforcuttingtriangles.Usealargechef’sknifetoconnecteachscoremarkonthetopwiththetwoatbottomoneithersideofit.Theisoscelestrianglesshouldmeasure3inches(8cm)wideand10inches(25cm)high.Therewillbenarrowtrianglesofdoughleftoverateachend.

9.Gentlystretchthecuttrianglesanadditional2to3inches(5to8cm)inlength,beingcarefulnottotearthedough.3

ROLL,FILL,ANDSHAPE

1.Lay1sliceofthereservedIbéricohamoneachtriangleofcroissantdough,keepingthehaminsidethebordersofthedough.Atthewideendofeachdoughtriangle,placeasliceofMahóncheese.4

2.Startingatthewideend,rollthecroissantdoughtowardthetip,keepingsteady,evenpressureasyouroll.Whenfinished,makesurethetipofthedoughisonthebottomofthecroissant.

3.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Placethecroissantsonthesheetpanabout4inches(10cm)apart.Lightlylayapieceofplasticwrapoverthecroissantsandrefrigerateovernight.

THEDAYOFBAKE

1.Removethetrayofcroissantsfromtherefrigerator.Keepthemlightlycoveredinplasticwrap.Proofatroomtemperatureuntiltripledinsize,1hour30minutesto2hours.

2.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.

3.LightlybrushthecroissantswitheggwashandsprinklewithgratedMahóncheese,about1teaspoonpercroissant.Bakeonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandletcoolbriefly.

1.Instantyeastisoftenusedfordoughswithhighersugarcontent,becausethisyeastneedslesswatertoreactandsugartendstopullwaterfromdough.Youcansubstitutethesamequantityofactivedryyeast,butyoumaygetadenserfinalproduct.

2.Ifyoudon’thaveenoughspaceintherefrigerator,youcangentlyfoldthedoughinhalftofit.

3.Stretchingoutthedoughnotonlygivesyoumoretoroll,italsorelaxesthedough.

4.TheMahóncheesewillneedtobebrokenuptofitintothetriangle.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSBestservedfreshandhotoutoftheoven.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSCroissantsshouldbeeatenwithin5hoursofbaking.

SWEETPOTATOMONTBLANC

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...becauseitisamixoftextures:creamy,crispy,chewy,andcrumbly.

SKILLLEVELAdvanced

TIME 5 hours one day before; 45minutes the day of YIELD 6 individualMontBlancs

TIMELINE

ONEDAYBEFOREMakemeringues,sablécookiedough,marmalade,purée,mousse,and Chantilly cream; begin assembly THE DAY OF Bake sablé cookies; finishassembly

SPECIALTOOLS

3uncutpipingbagsAteco#804plaintip(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter)6siliconeconemolds2

BlenderorfoodprocessorSmalloffsetspatula

SmalloffsetspatulaStandmixerwithwhiskattachment11/2-inch(3.75cm)ringcutter,oronethatfitsthebottomofthemoldSieve(optional)

INGREDIENTS

Swissmeringue(page116) 1batch 1batch

SabléBretoncookiedough(page126),unbaked

1batch 1batch

CITRUSMARMALADEOrange 1orange 1orange

Lemons 11/2lemons 11/2lemonsGranulatedsugar 1/3cup 68grams

Grapefruitjuice 2tablespoons 31grams

Orangejuice 2tablespoons 31grams

Limejuice 2tablespoons 31grams

Lemonjuice 2tablespoons 31gramsFinelychoppedlemonzest 1lemon 1lemon

SWEETPOTATOPURÉEGranulatedsugar 21/4cups 461grams

Water 2cups+4tablespoons 500grams

Sweetpotatoes,small,whole,skinon 101/2ounces 300grams

SWEETPOTATOMOUSSEGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1each 1eachHeavycream 1/2cup+1tablespoon 118grams

Darkrum 1tablespoon 15grams

Lightbrownsugar 2tablespoons+2teaspoons 30grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 11/2tablespoons 21grams

Sweetpotatopurée(fromabove) 3/4cup 189gramsVanillaChantillyCream(page185),unwhipped

2batches 2batches

Confectioners’sugar(forserving,optional) asneeded asneeded

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKEMERINGUES

1.MakeSwissmeringue,page116.Preheattheovento200°F(95°C)forconventionalor175°F(80°C)forconvection.

2.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofSwissmeringueinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemeringuedowntowardthetipofthebag.

3.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Ateachcorner,pipeasmalldotofmeringueundertheparchmentandpushtheparchmentflat.Thiswillhelpkeepit“glued”tothesheetpan.Holdingthepipingbagata90degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethepan,pipethemeringuewithsteady,evenpressure.Pipeatleast6smallteardrops,justover1inch(3cm)wideandjustover1inch(3cm)tall.3

4.Wetyourfingerslightlyandpressdownonthepeaksoftheteardropstoflattenthem.Themeringuesshouldbeshapedlikethickbuttons.4

5.Bakefor20minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor20minutesmore.Continuetorotateevery20minutesuntilthemeringuesarecompletelydry,about1hour20minutes.

6.Letthemeringues,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.Themeringuesshouldbecrispyallthewaythrough,withnomoistureontheinside.Reserveinanairtightcontainerinacool,dryspace.

MAKESABLÉCOOKIEDOUGH

Make sablé cookie dough, page 126. Roll out the sablé cookie dough to arectanglealittlelargerthan6by9inches(15by23cm).Wraptightlybetweentwosheetsofparchmentandletitrestovernightintherefrigerator.

MAKEMARMALADE

1.Whilethemeringuesarebaking,cutthetopandbottomofftheorangeandthelemon.Trimasmuchofthepeelandpithoffthefruitaspossiblewithoutcuttingintothesegmentsofcitrus.Cutthepeelintoextremelythinstrips,aboutthethicknessofacreditcard.

2.Combinethelemonandorangepeelsinasmallpot.Fillthepotwithenoughcoldwatertocompletelycoverthepeels.Placeonhighheatandbringtoaboil.Removefromtheheatanddrain.Repeatthisprocess2moretimes.Thisblanchingprocesshelpsyoueliminatethebitternessfromthepeels.

3.Draintheblanchedorangeandlemonpeels,returnthemtothepot,andaddthesugarandthegrapefruit,orange,lime,andlemonjuices.Bringtoaboiloverhighheatandthenlowertheheattoasimmer.Simmerforabout30minutes,stirringoccasionallytomakesurethemarmaladedoesn’tburn.Asitcooks,itwillthickenandtheorangeandlemonpeelswillbecometender.

4.Addthefinelychoppedlemonzest.

5.Transferthemarmaladetoasmallbowlandletcooltoroomtemperature.Whenfullycooled,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerate.

MAKEPURÉE

1.Combinethegranulatedsugarandwaterinamediumpotandbringtoaboil.Addthesweetpotatoes.Reducetheheattoasimmerandcookuntilthesweetpotatoesaretender,about30minutes.Youshouldbeabletoslideaknifethroughthemwithnoresistance.Drainthepotatoes(discardthesyrup)andletthemcoolfor15to20minutes.

2.Whilethesweetpotatoesarestillwarm,peelofftheskinwithaparingknife.53.Puréethepotatoesinablenderorfoodprocessoruntilsmooth.Measureout

3/4cup(189grams)intoamediumbowl,coverwithplasticwrap,andreserveatroomtemperature.

MAKEMOUSSE

1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1teaspoon(2.3grams)gelatinover1tablespoon(15grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Whiptheheavycreamwithawhisktomediumpeaksinamediumbowl.Thecreamshouldfallbackontoitself.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.

3.Combinetherumandbrownsugarinasmallpot.Bringtoaboiloverhighheattodissolvethesugar.Removefromtheheat.

4.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotrumuntilthegelatinisdissolved.Slowlywhiskinthebutterinfouradditions,makingsurethebutteriscompletelyincorporatedbeforeaddingmore.Slowlystreamthemixtureintothesweetpotatopurée,whiskingconstantly.

5.Witharubberspatula,foldone-thirdofthewhippedcreamintothesweetpotatobase.Whenfullyincorporated,foldintheremainingwhippedcreamasgentlyaspossibletoretainitsvolume.Whenfinished,themousseshouldbeuniformincolor,withnostreaksofcream,andabletoholdasoftpeak.

6.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofmousseinapipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemoussedowntowardthetipofthebag.Reserveintherefrigeratoruntilneeded.

MAKECHANTILLYCREAM

Make vanilla Chantilly cream, page 185.Using a rubber spatula, place 2 largescoops ofChantilly cream in a piping bag so that it is one-third full. Push thecreamdowntowardthetipofthebag.Refrigerateuntilneeded.

BEGINASSEMBLY

1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandplaceaconemoldonit.Cutanopeningabout1/2inch(1.25cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithsweetpotatomousse.Placethetipofthebagatthebottomofthemoldandfillittwo-thirdsofthewaytothetop.Usingasmalloffsetspatula,spreadthemousseupthesidesofthemold.Thisway,youcreateaspaceinthecenterofthemousse.(Youarealsoeliminatinganyairpocketsthatmighthaveformedwhilepiping.)Themousseshouldmeasureabout3/8inch(1cm)aroundthesidesofthemold.

2.Spoonabout1teaspoonofcitrusmarmaladeintothespaceinthecenterofthemousse.Gentlypushameringuebutton,flatsideup,intothecitrusmarmalade.Toavoidcreatingairpockets,makesurethebuttonisinfullcontactwiththemarmalade.

3.Cutanopeningabout3/8inch(1cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthepipingbagfilledwithChantillycream.Pipethecreamoverthemeringuebutton,makingsuretocompletelycovertheentiresurfaceofthemeringue.Thereshouldbeabout3/8inch(1cm)leftatthetopofthemold.Pipetheremainingsweetpotatomousseoverthecream,fillingthemold.Useasmalloffsetspatulatoleveloffthemousse.AssembletheremainingMontBlancsinthesamefashion.Coverthemoldslooselywithplasticwrapandfreezeovernight.ReservetheremainingChantillycream.

THEDAYOFBAKESABLÉCOOKIES

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento350°F(175°C)forconventionalor325°F(160°C)forconvection.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.

2.Removethecookiedoughfromtherefrigeratorandpeeloffthetoplayerofparchment.Usingtheringcutter,cutout6circlesofdough.Placethemonthelinedsheetpanabout1inch(3cm)apart.Bakethesablécookiesonthecenterrackfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmoreoruntilgoldenbrown.

3.Whenthesablécookieshavereachedthedesiredcolor,removefromtheovenandplacethem,stillontheparchmentpaper,onaflatsurface.Using

thesameringcutter,trimtheedgesbypushingtheringcutterdownthroughthewarmsablécookie.Letthesablécookies,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.6

FINISHASSEMBLY

1.Whenthemousseiscompletelyfrozen,removefromthemoldsbypushingupfromthebottom.Inverteachmousseconesothewidebaseisthebottom.Placeeachpyramidontopofasablécookie.

2.UsetheremainingChantillycreamtodecoratetheMontBlancs.Holdingthebagata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethemoussepyramid,pipealargedotofChantillycream,pullingstraightuptomakealargeteardrop.

3.TransferthefinishedMontBlancstotherefrigeratorfor2to3hoursbeforeserving.

1.ThemoldIrecommendissilicone,about3inches(7.5cm)high,cone-shaped,withaflattopabout1inch(2.5cm)acrossthepointanda11/2-inch(3.75cm)squarebase.Ifyoudon’thavethismold,simplyadjustthesizeofthesablécookietomatchthebaseofthemoldyouhave.

2. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

3.Itisalwaysgoodtopipeafewextrameringuesjusttobesafe.Theytendtobreakeasily.

4.Ifyouhaveleftovermeringue,trymakingMiniMe’s(page116).

5.Peelingpotatoeswhiletheyarestillwarmensurestheskinwillcomeoffmuchmoreeasily.

6.Ifthebakedsablécookiescooldowntoomuch,theywillbecomedifficulttocutcleanly.Youcanalwaysreturnthemtotheovenforaminuteuntiltheybecomeeasiertocut.Justbecarefulnottooverbakethem.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSLettheMontBlancssitoutfor5minutestotemperbeforeserving.Alightdustingofconfectioners’sugarwouldbeanicetouch.

STORAGE INSTRUCTIONS Mont Blancs should be consumed within 24 hours ofthawing.Theycanbekeptfrozenforupto1weekwithoutthesablécookiebase(whichshouldbebakedthedayof).

GINGERBREADPINECONE

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...stackedupbeautifullyonamultitieredstandtolooklikeatreeforthefestiveholidayseason.

SKILLLEVELAdvanced

TIME 2 hours 30minutes two days before; 3 hours one day before; 1 hour 30minutesthedayofYIELD10to12pinecones

TIMELINE

TWODAYSBEFOREMakecream,cinnamonganache,praliné feuilletine,andpear-nutmegbiscuitONEDAYBEFOREWhipcreamandcinnamonganache;cutpralinéfeuilletine; begin assembly; make chocolate décor THE DAY OF Make chocolateganache;finishassembly

SPECIALTOOLS

MediumsieveInstant-readthermometerOffsetspatula

11/4-inch(3cm)ringcutter2uncutpipingbags2Ateco#804plaintips(3/8-inch/1cmdiameter)Standmixerwithwhiskattachment

2paletteknives2acetatesheets,each153/4by113/4inches(40by30cm)2petalorteardropcutters:3/4-inch(2cm)and1-inch(2.5cm)

INGREDIENTSGINGERCREAMGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 2each 2each

Heavycream 3/4cup,plusmoreasneeded 185grams,plusmoreasneeded

Choppedpeeledfreshginger 1/4cup 38gramsEggyolks(large) 2each 40grams

Granulatedsugar 2tablespoons+1teaspoon 30grams

CINNAMONGANACHEGelatinsheet(160bloom)1 1/2each 1/2each

Whitechocolatechips 1/4cup 45grams

Groundcinnamon 1/2teaspoon 1.5gramsHeavycream 3/4cup+2tablespoons 203grams

PRALINÉFEUILLETINEMilkchocolate(36%cocoacontent),finelychopped

3tablespoon 15grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 1teaspoon 4grams

Feuilletine2 1/4cup 20grams

Hazelnutpaste3 2tablespoons 35grams

PEAR-NUTMEGBISCUITUnsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 3tablespoons+1teaspoon 47grams

All-purposeflour 3/4cup 73grams

Granulatedsugar 1/2cup 103grams

Bakingsoda 1/4teaspoon 1gram

Groundnutmeg 3/4teaspoon 1.75gramsKoshersalt 1/2teaspoon 1gram

Bakingpowder 1/4teaspoon 1.5grams

Wholeegg(large;beat1eggandmeasureouthalf)

1/2each 1/2each(25grams)

Pearpurée4 1/3cup+1tablespoon 84grams

CHOCOLATEDÉCORDarkchocolate,finelychopped 2cups 300grams

DARKCHOCOLATEGANACHEWater 2tablespoons 26grams

Unsweetenedcocoapowder 21/4teaspoons 5grams

Heavycream 1/4cup 57gramsWholemilk 2tablespoons 29grams

Eggyolks(large;beat2yolksandmeasureoutthree-quarters)

11/2tablespoons 11/2each(30grams)

Granulatedsugar 2tablespoons 26grams

Darkchocolate(66%cocoacontent),finelychopped

1/2cup 83grams

Confectioners’sugar(fordecoration) asneeded asneeded

TWODAYSBEFOREMAKECREAM

1.Soakthegelatinsheetsinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.5Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle2teaspoons(5grams)gelatinover2tablespoons(30grams)waterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Bringthecreamtoaboilinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandaddtheginger.Coverthepotwithplasticwrapandsetitasidetoinfusefor20minutes.

3.Straintheinfusedcreamthroughamediumsieveintoameasuringcup.Addmoreheavycreamtoreturnittotheoriginalamount.Returnthecreamtothesmallpotandbringtoaboilagainovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

4.Whisktheyolksandsugartogetherinaheatproofbowl.Streamone-thirdofthehotcreamintotheyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremaininghotcreamandreturnthepottomediumheat.Whiskingconstantly,cookthegingercreamuntilitreaches185°F(85°C),beginstobubbleslightly,andbecomesthick.Removefromtheheat.

5.Ifusinggelatinsheets,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothegingercreamuntilfullydissolved.Strainthegingercreamthroughasmallsieveintoacleanbowl.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceofthecream,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.

MAKECINNAMONGANACHE

1.Soakthegelatinsheetinabowloficewateruntilsoft,about20minutes.Ifusingpowderedgelatin,sprinkle1/2teaspoon(about1.5grams)gelatinover11/2teaspoons(7.5grams)icewaterinasmallbowl,stir,andletsit20minutestobloom.

2.Combinethewhitechocolatechipsandgroundcinnamoninasmallheatproofbowl.

3.Bringtheheavycreamtoaboilinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.Ifusingagelatinsheet,squeezeoutanyexcesswater.Whiskthebloomedgelatinintothehotcreamuntilthegelatinisdissolved.

4.Pourthehotcreamoverthewhitechocolateandletstandfor30seconds.5.Whiskthecream,whitechocolate,andcinnamonuntilhomogeneousand

smooth.Coverwithplasticwrappresseddirectlyontothesurfaceoftheganache,topreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateovernighttoset.

MAKEPRALINÉFEUILLETINE

1.Meltthemilkchocolateinasmallbowlinthemicrowaveonhighpowerin20-secondintervals,stirringwithaheatproofspatulabetweenintervals,untilsmooth.

2.Meltthebutterinthemicrowaveinamediumbowl.Usingthespatula,stirinthemeltedchocolate.Addthefeuilletineandhazelnutpasteandstirwiththespatulauntilthefeuilletineisevenlycoated.

3.Spreadthefeuilletineonasheetofparchmentpaper,placeasecondsheetofparchmentontop,andpressdown.Witharollingpin,rollthefeuilletinetoathicknessof1/4inch(5mm).Transferthefeuilletine,stillbetweentheparchmentsheets,toasheetpanandfreeze.

MAKEPEAR-NUTMEGBISCUIT

1.Placearackinthecenteroftheovenandpreheattheovento375°F(190°C)forconventionalor350°F(175°C)forconvection.Lineaquartersheetpanwithparchmentpaper.

2.Meltthebutterinasmallpotovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandkeepwarm.

3.Whisktheflour,granulatedsugar,bakingsoda,nutmeg,salt,andbakingpowdertogetherinamediumbowl.Inanothermediumbowl,whisktogethertheeggandpearpuréeandstreamintothedryingredients,whiskingtocombine.Continuetowhiskuntilsmooth.Slowlystreamthemeltedbutterintothebatterwhilewhisking.Whenthebutteriscompletelyincorporated,youshouldhavealoose,shinybatterthatspreadseasily.

4.Usingarubberspatula,scoopthebatterontothequartersheetpan.Withanoffsetspatula,spreadthebatterevenlytofillthepansothatitisabout1/4inch(6mm)thick.

5.Bakethebiscuitonthecenterrackoftheovenfor8minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor8minutesmore.Whenfinished,thebiscuitwillbeadeepgoldenbrownandspringbacktothetouch.Letthebiscuit,stillinthepan,coolcompletely.

6.Invertthesheetpanontoacuttingboard.Liftoffthepanandpeelawaytheparchmentpaperfromthebiscuit.Punchout12circlesofbiscuitwitha11/4-inch(3cm)ringcutter.Wrapwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.

ONEDAYBEFOREWHIPCREAM

Using a whisk, work the ginger cream into a smooth paste. Cut the tip of apipingbag to snugly fit a#804plain tip.Using a rubber spatula, place 2 largescoops of ginger cream in the bag so that it is one-third full. Push the creamdowntowardthetipofthebag.Setaside.

WHIPCINNAMONGANACHE

1.Transfertheganachetoastandmixerfittedwithawhisk.Whiponhighspeeduntilstiffpeaksform.

2.Cutthetipofanotherpipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofganacheinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushtheganachedowntowardthetipofthebag.

CUTPRALINÉFEUILLETINE

Remove the feuilletine from the freezer. Peel off the top sheet of parchmentpaper.Punchout12circleswiththe11/4-inch(3cm)ringcutter.Returntothefreezeruntilneeded.

BEGINASSEMBLY

1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Placeapralinéfeuilletinecircleonthepan.Ontopofthat,placeacircleofpear-nutmegbiscuit.Makesuretocenterthebiscuitsothatitlinesupperfectlywiththepralinéfeuilletine.

2.Holdingthepipingbagofgingercreamata90-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethebiscuit,pipeadotthatcoversthesurfaceofthebiscuit.

Useyourfreehandtoholdthebiscuitinplace.Whenthecreamreachestheedgesofthebiscuit,pullstraightuptocreateateardropshape.

3.Holdingthepipingbagofcinnamonganacheata90-degreeangle,startatthebaseofthebiscuitandpipeganacheoverthegingercream,wrappingaroundthecreamandworkinguntilitiscompletelycovered.Atthispointthepineconewilllooklikeithasbeenwrappedinrope.Repeatwiththeremainingfeuilletineandbiscuitcircles.Freezeovernight.

MAKECHOCOLATEDÉCOR

1.Meltandtemperthedarkchocolate(seepage242).2.Placeasheetofparchmentpaperontheworksurface.Usingapaletteknife,

onthefirstsheetofacetatespreadhalfofthetemperedchocolateinathin,evenlayeraboutthethicknessofacreditcard.Whenthechocolateisnolongershiny,usethelargepetalcuttertopunchout250chocolatepieces.Youwillhavejust2to3minutesbeforethechocolateisfullyset,sospeedisveryimportant.Whenyouaredone,flipthesheetoverontotheparchmentpapersotheacetateisfacingup.Thiswillkeepthechocolateflatasitsets.

3.Repeattheprocessusingthesmallpetalcutteronthesecondsheetofacetateandcut250petals.Whenfinished,placeitontopofthefirstsheetandletthembothsetintherefrigeratorfor20minutes.

4.Peelofftheacetateandseparatethechocolatedécor.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.

THEDAYOFMAKECHOCOLATEGANACHE

1.Whiskthewaterandcocoapowderinasmallbowltomakeasmoothpaste.Setasideatroomtemperature.

2.Combinethecreamandmilkinasmallpotandbringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.Whisktheeggyolksandgranulatedsugarinasmallbowluntilfullyblended.6

3.Streamone-thirdofthehotcreamandmilkintotheeggyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremaininghotcreamandmilkandreturnthepottomediumheat.

4.Continuetocookthecustardovermediumheat,whiskingcontinuously,untilitreaches185°F(85°C).Thecustardwillturnpaleyellowandthickensothatitcoatsthebackofaspoon.Removefromtheheat,addthecocoapowderpaste,andwhiskuntilfullyblended.

5.Placethedarkchocolateinaheatproofbowl.Strainthecustardthroughasmallsieveoverthechocolate.Letstandfor30seconds.

6.Whiskthechocolateandcustarduntilhomogeneousandsmooth.Whenfinished,theganachewillhavetheconsistencyofpancakebatterandbepourable.

FINISHASSEMBLY

1.Lineasheetpanwithparchmentpaperandplaceawirerackontop.Takethepineconebasesoutofthefreezerandarrangethemonthewirerack,about3inches(7.5cm)apart.

2.Makesurethedarkchocolateganacheisbetween95°and104°F(35°and40°C),orslightlywarmtothetouch.Letitcoolfurtherorrewarmitgentlyoversimmeringwaterifnecessary.7

3.Pourthechocolateganachedirectlyoverthetopofafrozenpineconesothatitcoverstheentirestructure.Repeatwiththeremainingpinecones.Refrigeratefor5minutestosetlightly.

4.Withanoffsetspatula,transferthepineconesfromthewireracktoasheetpanorindividualservingplates.Letthawintherefrigeratorfor2to3hoursbeforeapplyingthedécor.

5.Startingatthebottomofthepinecone,andwiththesmallerpetalsfirst,placethepointedendofthedécorintotheganache,roundedendfacingup.Placethenextpieceofdécordirectlynexttothefirstone.Repeatuntilthedécorcompletelywrapsaroundthepinecone.Makeasecondrow1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethefirst.Completeathirdandfinalrowofsmallpetals.

6.Towardthecenter,startusingthelargerpetalsandthenswitchtothesmallerpetalsagainatthetop.

7.Continuetofillthepineconewithdécoruntilyoureachthetop(aminimumof6layersandupto12layersofdécortotal).Afinishedpineconewillusearound40piecesofchocolatedécor.Continuewiththeremainingpinecones.8Keepintherefrigeratoruntilreadytoserve.

1. If youcan’t findgelatin sheets,usepowderedgelatin.Onegelatin sheet=1 scant teaspoon(2.3 grams) powdered gelatin. For every teaspoon of gelatin, bloom in 1 tablespoon (15 grams)water.

2.Ifyoucan’tfindfeuilletine,youcanuseanykindofcrispywafersorcookies.

3.Ifyoucan’tfindhazelnutpaste,almondbutterisagoodsubstitute.

4.Ifyoucan’tfindpearpurée,puréepeeledandcoredfreshripepears,adding10percentoftheirweightinsugar.

5.Gelatinneeds at least12hours to set completely.Make sure toplan aheadwhenusing anyproductsthatcontaingelatin,astheywillneedtimetoset.

6.Combine the sugarandegg yolks justbeforeusing.Over time, the sugarwill “cook” theeggyolks,creatinglumps.

7.Atthistemperature,thechocolateganacheisfluidenoughtocoatthepineconewithoutmeltingthecinnamonganacheunderneath.

8.Asyoureachthetop3layersofdécor,starttoanglethepetalsuptomorecloselyresembleapinecone.

SERVING INSTRUCTIONSLet thepinecones sitout for5minutes to temperbeforeserving.Immediatelybeforeserving,siftconfectioners’ sugaroverthepineconestogivetheappearanceofsnow.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSConsumewithin24hoursofglazing.Unglazedpineconescanbekeptfrozenforupto1week.Thedécorcanbekeptinaclosedairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto1week.

BAKEDALASKA

Ilovemakingthisrecipe...forlargepartiesthatrequirea“wow”factor.

SKILLLEVELAdvanced

TIME2hours30minutestwodaysbefore;3hours30minutesonedaybefore;2hoursthedayofYIELD1largecaketoserve8to10people

TIMELINE

TWODAYSBEFOREMakebiscuit,icecreams,andsorbetbasesONEDAYBEFOREMakecaramelizedsablécookiecrumbsandCalvadossyrup;beginassemblyTHEDAYOF

Makemeringues;finishassembly

SPECIALTOOLS

Instant-readthermometerSmallsieveSmokinggun(optional)Applewoodchips(optional)Standmixerwithpaddleandwhiskattachments

Pastrybrush10by4by4–inch(25by10by10cm)terrinemoldIcecreammachine6uncutpipingbags

INGREDIENTS

Almondbiscuit(page141) 2batches 2batches

VanillaIceCreambase(page124);chilledbutnotchurned

1batch 1batch

SMOKEDCINNAMONICECREAMWholemilk 21/3cups 548gramsHeavycream 1/4cup+1tablespoon 61grams

Groundcinnamon,preferablysmoked 11/4teaspoons 3grams

Granulatedsugar 1/2cup+1tablespoon 116grams

Milkpowder 1/3cup 30g

Eggyolks(large),atroomtemperature 5each 5each(100grams)Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 3tablespoons 42grams

CARAMELICECREAMGranulatedsugar 3/4cup 154grams

Unsaltedbutter(84%butterfat) 21/2tablespoons 35grams

Wholemilk 21/4cups 528grams

Heavycream 1/4cup+1teaspoon 59gramsMilkpowder 1/3cup+1tablespoon 30grams

Koshersalt 1teaspoon 2grams

Eggyolks(large),atroomtemperature 5each 5each(100grams)

GREENAPPLESORBETWater 11/4cups+21/2

tablespoons263grams

Granulatedsugar 3/4cup 154gramsGreenapplepurée 21/2cups 566grams

Calvados 1tablespoon+1teaspoon 15grams

CARAMELIZEDSABLÉBRETONCOOKIECRUMBSSabléBretoncookiedough(page126),unbaked

1batch 1batch

Lightcornsyrup 2tablespoons 37grams

Glazingfondant 2tablespoons 37grams

CALVADOSSYRUPGranulatedsugar 1/4cup 50grams

Water 1/2cup+1tablespoon 115grams

Calvados 1/4cup+1tablespoon 75grams

Swissmeringue(page116) 1batch 1batchRedsandingsugar(fordecoration) 2tablespoons 16grams

TWODAYSBEFOREMAKEBISCUIT

BakeadoublebatchofthealmondbiscuitintheCotton-SoftCheesecakerecipe,page141.Itcanbebakedwithoutcutting.Letcooltoroomtemperature, thenwrapwellinplasticwrapandrefrigerate.

MAKEVANILLAICECREAMBASE

Preparethebaseforvanillaicecreambutdonotchurnityet.Strainitthroughasmallsieveintoaquartcontainer.Fillalargebowlwithiceandwater.Placethecontainerof icecreambaseintheicebath.Stirthebasewithawhiskevery10minutestocoolitrapidly.Whenfullycooled,refrigerateuntilneeded.1

MAKE(SMOKED)CINNAMONICECREAMBASE

1.Forextraflavor,placethegroundcinnamoninaresealableplasticbag.Fitthetipofthesmokinggunfilledwithapplewoodchipsintothebagandseal.Letthesmokefillthebagandclose.Setasidefor30minutes,sothegroundcinnamoncanabsorbthesmoke.

2.Combinethemilk,cream,and(smoked)cinnamoninamediumpotandwarmoverlowheat.Whiskthegranulatedsugarandmilkpowdertogetherinamediumbowl.Whiskintothemilkmixture,raisetheheattomedium,andbringtoaboil.Whenthesugarandmilkpowderhavedissolved,removefromtheheat.

3.Placetheeggyolksinamediumheatproofbowlandwhiskthemtoblendlightly.Streamone-thirdofthehotmilkmixtureintotheyolks,whiskingconstantlyuntilfullyblended,totemperthem.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremaininghotmilkandreturnthepottomediumheat.

4.Continuetocookthebaseovermediumheat,whiskingcontinuously,untilitreaches185°F(85°C)andbecomesthickenoughtocoatthebackofaspoon.Addthebutterandwhiskuntilmelted.Removefromtheheat.Strainthroughasmallsieveintoaquartcontainer.

5.Fillalargebowlwithiceandwater.Placethecontaineroficecreambaseintheicebath.Stirthebasewithawhiskevery10minutestocoolitrapidly.Whenfullycooled,refrigerateuntilneeded.

MAKECARAMELICECREAMBASE

1.Placeamediumpotoverhighheat.Sprinkleaboutone-quarterofthegranulatedsugarintothehotpot.Asthesugarmeltsandstartstocaramelize,stirwithaheatproofspatulauntilallthesugarcrystalsdissolve.Slowlysprinkleintheremainingsugar,stirringasyousprinkle.Whenallthesugarhasbeenadded,continuetocookuntilthecolorreachesadeepamber.Whiskinthebutteruntilcompletelyincorporated.

2.Combinethewholemilkandheavycreaminanothermediumpot.Bringtoaboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheat.

3.Pourthecaramelontoaquartersheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaper.Coolatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.Oncecool,breakthesheetedcaramelintosmallpieces.Addtothewarmmilkmixtureandcoverwithplasticwraptoinfuse,about30minutes.

4.Removetheplasticwrapfromthecaramel-infusedmilkandwhiskinthemilkpowderandsalt.

5.Placetheeggyolksinasmallheatproofbowlandwhiskthemtoblendlightly.Streaminone-thirdofthecaramel-infusedmilk,whiskinguntilfullyblended,totempertheyolks.Whiskthetemperedyolksintotheremainingcaramel-infusedmilkandreturnthepottomediumheat.

6.Continuetocookthebaseovermediumheat,whiskingcontinuously,untilitreaches185°F(85°C)andbecomesthickenoughtocoatthebackofaspoon.Removefromtheheat.Strainthroughasmallsieveintoaquartcontainer.

7.Fillalargebowlwithiceandwater.Placethecontaineroficecreambaseintheicebath.Stirthebasewithawhiskevery10minutestocoolitrapidly.Whenfullycooled,refrigerateuntilneeded.

MAKEGREENAPPLESORBETBASE

1.Combinethewaterandgranulatedsugarinamediumpotovermediumheat.Bringtoaboilandcookuntilthesugarisdissolved.Removefromtheheatandletcoolforafewminutes.

2.WhiskinthegreenapplepuréeandCalvadosuntilfullyblended.Transfertoaquartcontainerandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.Whencooled,refrigerateuntilneeded.

ONEDAYBEFOREMAKECARAMELIZEDSABLÉCOOKIECRUMBS

1.BakeandcoolthesabléBretoncookiedoughrecipe,page126.Itcanbebakedwithoutcutting.Placethebakedsabléinastandmixerfittedwitha

paddle.Mixonlowspeeduntilthesabléturnsintosandycrumbs.2.Combinethecornsyrupandglazingfondantinasmallpot.Bringthesyrup

toaboilovermediumheatandcontinuetocookuntilthecaramelturnsadeepambercolor.

3.Increasethemixerspeedtomediumandslowlypourthecarameldownthesidesofthebowl,beingcarefultoavoidthepaddle.Whenallthecaramelhasbeenadded,continuetobeatthesablécookiecrumbsfor20secondsmoresothatthecaramelisevenlydistributed.

4.Pourthecaramelizedsablécookiecrumbsontoasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaperandletcoolcompletely.Whencooled,reserveinanairtightcontainer.

MAKECALVADOSSYRUP

Combine the granulated sugar and water in a small pot. Bring to a boil overmedium heat. Remove from the heat and let the syrup cool to roomtemperature.Whisk theCalvados into the syrup.Reserve at room temperatureuntilneeded.

BEGINASSEMBLY

1.Removetheplasticwrapfromthealmondbiscuitandplaceskinsidedownonasheetpanlinedwithparchmentpaper.Withapastrybrush,applytheCalvadossyrup.

2.Linetheterrinemoldlengthwisewitha14by4–inch(40by10cm)stripofparchmentpaper,leavinga1-inch(2.5cm)overhangateachend.

3.Cutthealmondbiscuitthesamesizeastheparchmentpaper,lettingthebiscuitcome1inch(2.5cm)abovetheedgeofthemoldjustliketheparchment.Cutthree11/2by10–inch(3by25cm)stripsofbiscuitandreserveuntilneeded.Thesewillbelayeredbetweeneachoftheicecreamflavors.

4.Churnthevanillaicecreamaccordingtotheinstructionsforyourmachine.5.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofthevanillaicecreamina

pipingbagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Cutanopeningabout1inch(2.5cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Pipealayeroficecreamabout3/4inch(2cm)thickintothebottomofthemold.Pushoneofthestripsofalmondbiscuitintotheicecream,forcingtheicecreamtothesidesofthemoldandcreatingalevellayer.ApplytheCalvadossyruptothebiscuitliberally.Reserveinthefreezer.

6.Churnthe(smoked)cinnamonicecream.Transfertoanotherpipingbag.Cutanopeningabout1inch(2.5cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Pipealayerof(smoked)cinnamonicecreamabout3/4inch(2cm)thickontopofthebiscuitinthemold.Pushasecondstripofalmondbiscuitintothe(smoked)cinnamonicecream,forcingtheicecreamtothesidesofthemoldandcreatingalevellayer.Returnthemoldtothefreezer.

7.Churnthecaramelicecream.Transferittoathirdpipingbag.Cutanopeningabout1inch(2.5cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Pipealayerofcaramelicecreamabout3/4inch(2cm)thickontopofthebiscuitinthemold.Pushthelaststripofalmondbiscuitintothecaramelicecream,forcingtheicecreamtothesidesofthemoldandcreatingalevellayer.Returnthemoldtothefreezer.

8.Finally,churnthegreenapplesorbet.Transferittoafourthpipingbag.Cutanopeningabout1inch(2.5cm)widestraightacrossthetipofthebag.Pipealayerofsorbetabout3/4inch(2cm)thickintothemold.

9.Coverthegreenapplesorbetwithhalfthecaramelizedsablécookiecrumbs.GentlypushthecrumbsintothesorbetsothattheywillstickwhenthebakedAlaskaisunmolded.Reservetherestofthecrumbs.CoverthemoldwithplasticwrapandfreezethebakedAlaskaovernight.

THEDAYOFMAKEMERINGUES

1.MakeSwissmeringue,page116.2.Preheattheovento200°F(95°C)forconventionalor175°F(80°C)for

convection.3.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita#804plaintip.Usingarubber

spatula,place2largescoopsofSwissmeringueinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemeringuedowntowardthetipofthebag.

4.Lineahalfsheetpanwithparchmentpaper.Ateachcorner,pipeasmalldotofmeringueundertheparchmentandpushtheparchmentflat.Thiswillhelpkeepit“glued”tothesheetpan.

5.Holdingthepipingbagata45-degreeangleabout1/2inch(1.25cm)abovethesheetpan,withsteady,evenpressurepipesticksofmeringueabout3inches(7.5cm)long.Whenyoureachtheendofastick,quicklypullthetipstraightup.Pipesticksabout1inch(2.5cm)apartuntilyouhaveatleast40meringuesticks.Sprinklewithredsandingsugar.RefrigeratetheremainingSwissmeringueuntilneededtodecoratethebakedAlaska.

6.Bakethemeringuesticksfor20minutes.Rotatethepan180degreesandbakefor20minutesmore.Continuetorotateevery20minutesuntilthemeringuesticksarecompletelydry,about1hour20minutes.

7.Letthemeringuesticks,stillontheparchmentpaper,coolcompletely.Whencool,removegentlyfromtheparchmentwithyourfingers.Reserveinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded.

FINISHASSEMBLY

1.Slideahotknifearoundeachsideoftheterrine.GentlypulltheparchmentpapertounmoldthebakedAlaska.

2.Cutthetipofapipingbagtosnuglyfita1/2-inch(1.25cm)rosetip.Usingarubberspatula,place2largescoopsofthereservedmeringueinthebagsothatitisone-thirdfull.Pushthemeringuedowntowardthetipofthebag.

3.Usingthemeringueinthepipingbag,slowlyplacethemeringuesticksverticallyoverthebakedAlaskainawave,startingatthebottomrightandendingintheoppositecorner.Thisshouldtakeabout30meringuesticks.

4.PipetheSwissmeringuearoundtheuncoveredareasofthebakedAlaska.Startingatthebottomcorner,pipehorizontallyacrossthebakedAlaska,movingthetipbackandforthabout1inch(2.5cm)toformundulatingwaves.2

5.CoatthetwoexposedendsofthebakedAlaskawiththeremainingcaramelizedsablécookiecrumbs,firmlypushingthecrumbsintotheicecreamandsorbet.

6.Holdthetipoftheblowtorchabout3inches(7.5cm)fromthemeringueandlightlytoasttheoutsideofthebakedAlaska.

1.Sinceyouwillpipe the icecream,youwant tochurn it rightbeforeyouassemble thebakedAlaska.

2.ThereareotherwaystodecoratethebakedAlaska.Onealternativeistousea#804plaintipand pipe teardrops to cover the almond biscuit, giving you a spiked appearance. Another is tospreadthemeringuewithyourhands,creatinganaturalwavytexture.

SERVINGINSTRUCTIONSLettemper5minutesbeforecuttingandserving.

STORAGEINSTRUCTIONSTheundecoratedbakedAlaskacanbefrozenforupto1weekbeforeserving.Meringuestickscanbestoredinaclosedairtightcontainerforupto1week.

ADDITIONALTECHNIQUES

COOKINGCUSTARD

Anycreambasethatcontainseggsisconsideredacustard.You’llfinditinicecreambases,pastrycream,crèmeanglaise,someganaches,andallsortsofbakedflans.Curdsaremadeinasimilarfashion.

Eggscanbetrickytocookbecausetheyaresotemperaturesensitive.Anytemperature higher than 185°F (85°C) and you’ll get scrambled eggs.Whenindoubt,alwaysfollowthesetwoquicktips:

1.Tempertheeggsbyslowlystreaminginone-thirdofthehotliquid,whiskingconstantly.Thiswillraisethetemperatureoftheeggsjustenoughsothatyoucanreturnthemtotherestofthehotliquidwithoutoverheatingandinstantlycookingthem.Thisway,you’llgetasilkytexture.

2.Whentheeggsreturntothehotmixture,theyarenotquitecookedthroughyet.Youwillneedtokeepwhiskinguntilthecustardreachesastatecallednappé,whichmeans“glazed”inFrenchandreferstowhenthecustardisthickenoughtocoatthebackofaspoon.Drawalinewithyourfingerthroughthecoatedportionofthespoon.Youshouldgetaclearline,astheliquidwon’tflowthrough.

When refrigerating custard, always place plastic wrap directly on thesurfacetopreventaskinfromforming.

PÂTEÀCHOUX

Pâte à choux is one of my favorite doughs to work with because I cancreatesomanyshapeswiththiscombinationofmilk,butter,salt,sugar,flour,andeggs—fromthelongfingersoféclairstothecircularringsoftheParis-Brest. But perhaps the most common form it takes is a smallcircular puff, from which it got its name—choux means “cabbage” inFrench—andit’salsothesweetnamethatmymomcallsmydadathome.

BASICSTEPSFORPÂTEÀCHOUX

1.Boilthemilk,butter,salt,andsugar.2.Addtheflourandusesomeelbowgreasetomixthedoughvigorously

withawoodenspoonuntilitstartstodryandformaskinonthebottomofthepot.ThisisreferredtoinFrenchasdesséché,meaning“dehydrated.”(It’simportanttoletsomeofthewaterevaporatesothatyoucanaddeggstothedoughwithoutmakingittoorunny.)

3.Transferthedoughtoabowlandbeattocoolslightly.Beatintheeggsonebyone.(Youcanalsouseastandmixer.)

4.Whenthedoughisdone,youshouldbeabletoliftthespoonanddrawoutaribbonthatslowlydissolvesintothedoughafterafewseconds.

HERE’S A TRICK:Usuallypâteàchoux ismadeandusedrightaway.Butafewyearsago,someoneatthebakerymistakenlyleftitintherefrigeratorovernight. When we tried to use it the next day, the results were evenbetter than usual. The pâte à choux didn’t puff up as much andmaintaineditsshapemorecleanlyasitbaked.

PIPING

I’mthefirsttoadmitthatIdon’thavegreathandwriting,butwhenIpipetheletterswithacornet,theyturnoutprettywell.Inculinaryschool,wepracticed how to properly pipe by writing the alphabet in Gothic scripteverydayforweeks.

Pipingwell is something that takesa lotof repetition.Don’tgiveup—ittakestimetodeveloptherightkindofaccuracyandconsistencyneededtopipe.

TIPSONPIPING

1.Theopentopofthepipingbagshouldalwaysbefoldedoveryourhandsothatyoucanfillitwithoutgettingthetoppartofthebagdirty.

2.Ifyou’reusingatip,alwaysmakesurethetipfitssnuglyintothebottomofthebagbeforefillingit.

3.Don’toverfillthebag.You’llhavemorecontrolwhenyourhandisclosertothetip.

4.Alwaystwisttheopentopofthebagtomakesurethematerialyou’repipingdoesn’tspillout.

5.Useyourfreehandtosteadythetipwhileyousqueezewiththehandholdingthebag.

6.Whenyouaredonepipingtheshape,releasethepressureandquicklypullup,turningyourwristslightlyatthesametime.

7.Pipingata90-degreeanglealwaysgivesyoubettercontrolandamoreevenshape.

8.Ifyouaren’tveryconfidentwhenitcomestopipingfreehand,youcanmakeguidemarksonthepieceofparchmentpaperyou’repipingonto.Justremembertoturnthepaperoversothattheinkorpencilisonthereverseside.

TEMPERINGCHOCOLATE

One of the most important skills for a pastry cook to develop whenadvancingishowtotemperchocolate.Whenmelted,thecocoabutterinchocolate doesn’t naturally resolidify into the proper crystallizationstructure. The goal of tempering is simple: to form the right types ofcrystallization in the cocoa butter so that you get chocolate that has ashinysurfaceandsnapscleanlywhenbroken.Untemperedchocolatesetsmatte, often with white streaks of cocoa butter on the surface (this iscalled“bloom”)andcrumblesratherthanbreaksevenly.

WhenIfirststartedto learnhowtotemperchocolate,Ipracticedonmykitchen table at home. Chocolate was everywhere, but that may be thetypeofspirityouneedto learnthisessentialpastryskill.Throwyourselfintothechallenge.

Therearetwotechniquesfortempering.

TABLETOPTECHNIQUEFORTEMPERING

1.Startwithamarbleorgranitesurface,whichiscleananddryanddoesn’tabsorbtheheat.

2.Meltthechocolatetothepropertemperature.  Darkchocolate:118°F(48°C)  Milkchocolate:113°F(45°C)  Whitechocolate:109°F(43°C)

3.Pour80percentofthemeltedchocolateontotheworkspace.Usingtwopaletteknives,slowlymovethechocolatearoundtoagitateit.Scrapetheknivesagainsteachothertocleanthemasyouwork.

4.Watchasthechocolatestartstothickenanddevelopagleam.Thetemperatureshouldbeabout84°F(29°C),andthechocolateshouldfeelslightlycooltothetouch,asit’sjustbelowbodytemperature.

5.Returntheagitatedchocolatetothebowlwiththeremainingmeltedchocolate,usingthepaletteknives.Theagitatedchocolatewillreheatslightlyasthewholeamountcomestothepropertemperature.  Darkchocolate:88°F(31°C)  Milkchocolate:86°F(30°C)  Whitechocolate:86°F(30°C)

Inyourfirstfewtimestempering,alwaysmakesuretotestbydippinganoffsetspatulaorpieceofparchmentpaperintothechocolatetoseeifitsets shiny. If not, try again with the same chocolate. Once tempered,chocolatemustbeusedimmediately.Ifitsolidifies,retemper.

SEEDINGTECHNIQUEFORTEMPERING

1.Melttwo-thirdsofthechocolatethatyouwanttotemper.2.Finelychoptheremainingone-third.Slowlymixitintothemelted

chocolatewitharubberspatula.(Thisisalsoreferredtoas“agitatingthechocolate.”)Asyouaddthechoppedchocolateand“seed”themeltedchocolate,itwillcool.(Thinkofitlikeaddingicecubestoasinkfullofwater.)

3.Thechocolateshouldbetemperedwhenallthechoppedchocolatehasbeenincorporated.

Thistechniquemaybefaster,butit’slessprecise.Itisagreatalternativeforsmallerkitchens.

FIREANDWATER

Twothingswillruinchocolateandmakeitunusable.

1.Ifyouheatchocolateonitsowntoover129°F(54°C),youwillburnorscorchit.

2.Ifyouwetthechocolatewithwaterorsteamwhiletemperingit,thechocolatewillseizeandturngrainyandpasty.

LAMINATION

Laminationisatechniqueoflayeringdoughwithbutter.ItisresponsiblefortheflakytextureofmanyofourfavoriteFrenchpastryclassicssuchasthecroissant,Danish,andpuffpastry.

WhenIwasgoingthroughmytraining,laminateddoughswerealwaysoneofthelastthingsonthecurriculumbecausetheyrequiredfasthandsandalargetimecommitment;thedoughneedstorestwhilebeinglayered.Itcantakeupto3daystolaminatesomedoughs.

BASICSTEPSTOLAMINATION

1.Therearealwaystwoparts:thedoughandthebutterblock.Bothneedtobechilledaftermixingandshapingsotheyarecoldandfirmbutstillflexible.Itisveryimportantthatthebutteranddougharesimilarintemperature,texture,andconsistencytoformevenlayers.

2.Standardlaminationplacesthebutterblockwithinthedough.Inverselamination(oftenusedforpuffpastrybecauseitresultsinaflakiertexture)hasthebutterontheoutsideandthedoughwithin.Theouterlayerisfoldedupovertheinnerlayertoencloseitcompletely,thenchilled.

3.Nowbeginthefolds.Rolloutthedough-and-butterpackagefromtoptobottomintoalongrectangle.Eachtimeyourolloutthedough,theseamsideshouldfaceuptomakesureitdoesn’tslipandslideasyouworkthedoughwiththerollingpin.

4.Dependingonwhatpastryyou’remaking,youwilleitherdoaletterfold(whichisfoldedinthirds,likealettergoingintoanenvelope)orabookfold(whichisfoldedinhalf,likeabook).

5.Usually,yourestthedoughintherefrigeratorforatleast30minutesbetweenfoldstoensurethebutterdoesn’tstarttowarmupandleakout.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Abigthank-youto:

Myamazing teamat theBakery—and toNoah inparticular forhishardwork.

Thepeoplewho supportedme throughout theproductionof thisbook—Amy,Emily,Thomas,Sahinaz,Suet,Seth,andMike.

DanielBoulud(akaPapa).

Simon&Schuster.

Andmyfansfromaroundtheworldfortheirpassionandsupport.

DOMINIQUE ANSEL is the chef and owner of Dominique AnselBakery inNewYorkCityandaJamesBeardawardwinner for “OutstandingPastryChef.”In2013,DominiquewasnamedoneofBusinessInsider’s“MostInnovativePeopleUnderForty.”That same year, theDailyMail (UK) calledhim the “most feted pastry chef in the world.” Recently, he became one ofCrain’s“40UnderForty.”Hisbakeryhasgoneontowineverysinglecovetedaward, includingTimeOutNewYork’s “BestNewBakery,”andholdsZagat’shighestrankinginthecategory.

Prior to starting his own business, Dominique spent seven years at thevenerable French bakery Fauchon, and six years at Daniel, Daniel Boulud’sflagshipFrenchrestaurant.AstheexecutivepastrychefatDaniel,Dominiquewaspartof the team that led the restaurant to receive its first four-starNewYork Times rating, three Michelin stars, and the James Beard Foundation’s“OutstandingRestaurantoftheYearAward”in2010.

WWW.DOMINIQUEANSELBOOK.COM

MEETTHEAUTHORS,WATCHVIDEOSANDMOREAT

SimonandSchuster.comauthors.simonandschuster.com/Dominique-Ansel

INDEX

Anoteabouttheindex:Thepagesreferencedinthisindexrefertothepagenumbersintheprintedition.Clickingonapagenumberwill takeyouto theebook locationthatcorresponds to thebeginningof thatpage in the print edition. For a comprehensive list of locations of anyword or phrase, use your readingsystem’ssearchfunction.

Note:Pagenumbersinitalicsrefertoillustrations.

A

advancedrecipes,183–231AngryEgg,189–92,189At-HomeCronutTMPastry,201–4,201BakedAlaska,226–31,226Dominique’sKouignAmanns(DKA),193–96,193GingerbreadPinecone,219–25,219IbéricoandMahónCroissant,209–13,209MagicSoufflé,197–200,197SweetPotatoMontBlanc,214–18,214

agar:ChocolateCaviar,185–87AlmondBiscuit,141,142–44

BakedAlaska,87,226–31,226AngryEgg,28–29,28–29,189–92,189AppleMarshmallow,100–101,100–101,162–64,162apples:

AppleTartTatin,70,71,126–28,126CaramelApples,71,126–28,126GreenAppleSorbet,226–31

ApricotCompote,166–68Arlette,90,91,179–82,179At-HomeCronutTMPastry,42–43,42–43,44–45,201–4,201Aun(friend),59

B

BakedAlaska,86,87,226–31,226BakedScrambledEggs,151–53beeswax,forcannelémolds,4,134,135beginnerrecipes,109–32

AppleTartTatin,126–28,126ChocolatePecanCookies,112–13,112HotChocolate,110–11,110

MarshmallowChicks,121–23,121MiniMadeleines,114-15,114MiniMe’s,116–17,116PopcornChouquettes,118–20,118PurpleTart,129–32,129VanillaIceCream,124–25,124

biscuit:AlmondBiscuit,141,142–44Pear-NutmegBiscuit,220–25

BlackandBluePavlova,22,23,154–57,154blackberries:

BlackandBluePavlova,23,154–57,154BlackberryPastryCream,129–32PurpleTart,89,129–32,129

blowtorch:forBakedAlaska,231forbrûlée,144

BlueberryCompote,155–57BlueberryMeringueShell,23,154,155–57Boulud,Daniel,ix,20breadflour(tip),180brioche:

OrangeBlossomBrioche,197–200,197PerfectLittleEggSandwich,52,150–53,150

brûlée,143–44butter:

Arlette,179–82,179ButterBlock,179–82,194,202–3,210–11folding(tip),180

C

Calvados:BakedAlaska,226–31CalvadosSyrup,227,229cannelé:

CannelédeBordeaux,5,134–36,134thecannelétest,4–5coppermoldsfor,135

caramel:CaramelApples,71,126–28,126CaramelGlaze,145,146–49CaramelIceCream,227–30CaramelizedHazelnuts,169–70,169CaramelizedPeanuts,145,146–49CaramelizedPopcorn,118–19,118CaramelizedSabléBreton,227–31“dry”(tip),122SoftCaramel,146–49

SoftCaramel(withfleurdesel),121–23“wet”(tip),122

cereal:ChristmasMorningCereal,30,31,169–70,169Champagne:

Champagne-ChocolateGanache,207Champagne-ChocolateGlaze,208PinkChampagneMacarons,158–61,158RoséChampagneGanache,158–61

cheating,temptation,4–5cheese:

IbéricoandMahónCroissant,68,69,209–13,209PerfectLittleEggSandwich,52,150–53,150

cheesecake:CheesecakeMousse,66,141–44,141Cotton-SoftCheesecake,66,67,141–44,141

chocolate:AngryEgg,28–29,28–29,189–92,189Champagne-ChocolateGanache,207Champagne-ChocolateGlaze,208ChocolateCaviarTart,98–99,98,184–88,184ChocolateDécor,219–25ChocolateFeuilletine,176–78ChocolateGanache,146–47,197–200ChocolatePecanCookies,14,16–17,112–13,112ChocolateSabléCrust,184–88ChocolateSoufflé,197,198–200chocolatewave,64ChristmasMorningCereal,30,31,169–70,169DarkChocolateGanache,220–25DarkChocolateMousse,145–49,145Eastereggs,24–27HotChocolate,106,107,110–11,110MagicSoufflé,40,41,197–200,197MarshmallowChicks,121,122–23meltinginmicrowave(tip),170MilkChocolateCereal,169–70,169MilkChocolateShell,163–64PralineFeuilletine,220–22RoséChampagneGanache,158–61“seeding”(tip),170soufflés,40tempering,242,243

chouquettes:PopcornChouquettes,72–73,72–73,118–20,118ChouxCrust,137–40ChristmasMorningCereal,30,31,169–70,169cinnamon:

CinnamonGanache,219–25CinnamonMarshmallow,162–64CinnamonSugar,180–82SmokedCinnamonIceCream,226–30

CitrusMarmalade,214–16cocoa,seechocolatecoffee:WhippedCoffeeGanache,184–88compotes:

ApricotCompote,166–68BlueberryCompote,155–57

cookies,15,16Arlette,90,91,179–82,179ChocolatePecanCookies,14,16–17,112–13,112SabléBretonCookies,126–28,214–18

Cotton-SoftCheesecake,66,67,141–44,141cream:

At-HomeCronutTMPastry,201–4,201CaramelIceCream,227–30Champagne-ChocolateGanache,207CheesecakeMousse,66,141–44,141ChocolateCaviar,185–88ChocolateGanache,197–200CinnamonGanache,219–25DarkChocolateGanache,220–25DarkChocolateMousse,145–49,145GingerCream,219–25LemonGanache,154–57LimeMousse,103,171–75,171PeanutButterCream,145–49,145RoséChampagneGanache,158–61SweetPotatoMousse,185,187VanillaChantillyCream,185,187,214,215–17VanillaIceCream,124–25,124VanillaRoseGanache,205VanillaWhippedGanache,137–40WhippedCoffeeGanache,184–88whippedcreamstability(tip),143WhippedLemonGanache,206whipping(tip),138

creampuffs:religieuse,,54–55VanillaReligieuse,54–55,137–40,137

creativeideas,94AppleMarshmallow,94,100–101ChocolateCaviarTart,94,98–99gingerbreadpinecones,96“LimeMeUp”Tart,94,102

croissant:CroissantDough,209–12IbéricoandMahónCroissant,68,69,209–13,209

CronutTMpastry,42–43,44At-HomeCronutTMPastry,42–43,44–45,201–4,201

curds:LimeCurd,171–75

PassionFruitCurd,165–68currants:PoachedPlumsandCurrants,129–31custard,cooking,234,235

D

Daniel(restaurant),ix,15,20,34Didier(macaronchef),10Dominique’sKouignAmanns(DKA),36–37,36–37,38–39,39,193–96,193dough:

At-HomeCronutTMPastryDough,201–4Brioche,150–53ChocolateSabléCrust,184–88ChouxCrust,137–40CroissantDough,209–12DKA,36–37,193–96laminating(tip),194OrangeBlossomBrioche,40,197–200overmixing(tip),113PâteàChoux,118–20,236,237proofing(tip),151PuffPastryDough,179–82resting,relaxing(tips),181,182SabléBretonCookies,126–28testing(tips),151,152VanillaSabléTartShells,129,130–32“windowpanetest”(tip),151

E

Eastereggs,24,28–29eggs:

AngryEgg,28–29,29,189–92,189BakedAlaska,87,226,226–30BakedScrambledEggs,52,150,151–53BlackberryPastryCream,129–32BlueberryMeringueShell,23,154,155–57custard,234,235eggwash,119,151,210MacaronShells,158–61,158MagicSoufflé,197–201,197MiniMe’s,116–17,116forPâteàChoux(tip),120PerfectLittleEggSandwich,52,53,150–53,150tips,115VanillaIceCream,47,124–25,124whippedeggwhites(tip),142

eggshells:MarshmallowChicks,24–25,24–25,26,27,121–23,121

F

Fauchon,19,20feuilletine:

ChocolateFeuilletine,176–78PralineFeuilletine,220–22

flavor,75–76Arlette,76BakedAlaska,76,86MontBlanc,76,85purple,76,88–89S’Mores,76,80SunflowerTart,76,79

flour:breadflour(tip),180fondant:

CaramelGlaze,145,146–49GlazeandDecoration,54–55,137,138–40glazingfondant(note),208warming(tip),148

foodcoloring(tip),159FrozenS’Mores,80,81,82–83,83,176–78,176fruit:

ApricotCompote,166–68arranging(tip),132BlueberryCompote,155–57PoachedPlumsandCurrants,129–31,129poaching(tip),131SunflowerTart,76,78–79,79,165–68,165

G

ganaches,205–7Champagne-ChocolateGanache,207ChocolateGanache,146–47,197–200CinnamonGanache,219–25DarkChocolateGanache,220–25LemonGanache,154–57RoséChampagneGanache,158–61VanillaRoseGanache,205VanillaWhippedGanache,137–40WhippedCoffeeGanache,184–88whippedganache(tip),156WhippedLemonGanache,206

gelatin/gelatinsheets:note,137

removingexcessmoisturefrom(tip),143timetoset(tip),221

GingerbreadPinecone,96,97,219–25,219GingerCream,219–25glazes:

CaramelGlaze,145,146–49Champagne-ChocolateGlaze,208GlazeandDecoration,54–55,137,138–40glazingfondant(note),208LemonGlaze,208RoseGlaze,208

goldleaf:PinkChampagneMacarons,12–13,158,158–61grapeseedoil:ChocolateCaviar,185–87GreenAppleSorbet,227–30

H

ham:IbéricoandMahónCroissant,68,69,209–13,209hazelnutpaste:PralineFeuilletine,220–22hazelnuts:

CaramelizedHazelnuts,169–70,169ChristmasMorningCereal,30,31,169–70,169

honey:ApricotCompote,166–68FrozenS’Mores,80Marshmallow,121–23,177–78MiniMadeleines,114–15tip,115

HotChocolate,106,107,110–11,110

I

IbéricoandMahónCroissant,68,69,209–13,209icecream:

BakedAlaska,86,87,226–31,226CaramelIceCream,227–30FrozenS’Mores,80,81,82–83,176–78,176SmokedCinnamonIceCream,226–30VanillaIceCream,46,47,124–25,124

intermediaterecipes,133–82AppleMarshmallow,162–64,162Arlette,179–82,179BlackandBluePavlova,154–57,154CannelédeBordeaux,134–36,134ChocolateCaviarTart,184–88,184ChristmasMorningCereal,169–70,169Cotton-SoftCheesecake,141–44,141

FrozenS’Mores,176–78,176“LimeMeUp”Tart,171–75,171Paris–NewYork,145–49,145PerfectLittleEggSandwich,150–53,150PinkChampagneMacarons,158–61,158SunflowerTart,165–68,165VanillaReligieuse,137–40,137

ItalianMeringue,171–75

K

kouignamann,,36–37DKA,36–37,38–39,39,193–200,193

L

laminationtechnique,246–47,244–47laminationtip,194lemon:

LemonGanache,154–57LemonGlaze,208WhippedLemonGanache,206

lime:LimeCurd,171–75“LimeMeUp”Tart,102,103,171–75,171LimeMousse,103,171–75,171

M

macarons,10aging(tip),161MacaronShells,158–61,158PinkChampagneMacarons,11,12–13,158–61,158

madeleines,50MiniMadeleines,6,7,8,8–9,114–15,114

magic,68MagicSoufflé,40,41,197–200,197MapleSugar,208marmalade:CitrusMarmalade,214–16marshmallow:

AppleMarshmallow,162–64,162CinnamonMarshmallow,162–64FrozenS’Mores,81,82–83,176–78,176MarshmallowChicks,24–25,24–25,26,27,121–23,121

marzipan:“worms”inAppleMarshmallow,100–101,164meringues,22

AlmondBiscuit,141,142–44BlueberryMeringueShell,23,154,156–57ItalianMeringue,171–75MiniMe’s,58,59,60,60–61,116–17,116SwissMeringue,116–17,214–15tip,142

MilkChocolateCereal,169–70,169MilkChocolateShell,163–64MiniMadeleines,6,7,8,8–9,114–15,114MiniMe’s,58,59,60,60–61,116–17,116

ChristmasMorningCereal,169–70,169HotChocolate,106,110–11

MontBlanc:SweetPotatoMontBlanc,84,85,214–18,214mousse:

CheesecakeMousse,66,141–44,141DarkChocolateMousse,145–49,145LimeMousse,103,171–75,171SweetPotatoMousse,214,215–18

Mozart,WolfgangAmadeus,42

N

names:DominiqueAnselJr.,50madeleine,50MiniMe,59,60Paris–NewYork,56PerfectLittleEggSandwich,53religieuse,54–55

NewYork,author’sintroductionto,56nuts:

ChocolatePecanCookies,15,112–13,112ChristmasMorningCereal,30,169–70,169

O

OrangeBlossomBrioche,197–200,197OrangeSugar,208oven:

convection(tip),115conventional(tip),200

overmixing(tip),113

P

parchment,placing(tip),142

Paris–NewYork,56,57,145–49,145PassionFruitCurd,165–68pastrycream:BlackberryPastryCream,129–32PâteàChoux,118–20

basictechniques,236,237ChouxCrust,137–40Paris–NewYork,145,145–49PeanutButterCream,145–49tips,120VanillaReligieuse,137–40,137

Paulmier,Madeleine,50pavlova,22

BlackandBluePavlova,23,154–57,154PeanutButterCream,145–49,145peanuts:CaramelizedPeanuts,145,146–49Pear-NutmegBiscuit,220–25pecans:ChocolatePecanCookies,14,16–17,112–13,112pectin(tip),155Peeps,25PerfectLittleEggSandwich,52,53,150–53,150Picasso,Pablo,42PinkChampagneMacarons,11,12–13,158–61,158piping(tip),160pipingtechnique,238–39,239plums:PoachedPlumsandCurrants,129–31,129popcorn:

CaramelizedPopcorn,118–19,118PopcornChouquettes,72–73,72–73,118–20,118

poppyseeds:SunflowerTart,78–79,165–68,165porkfat,rendered,210PralineFeuilletine,220–22puffpastry:

Arlette,179–82,179inverse(tip),180

PurpleTart,88–89,89,129–32,129

Q

quenelle,188

R

re-creation:appletart,70arlette,91cheesecake,67chouquette,72–73

hamandcheesecroissant,68processof,64

religieuse,54–55VanillaReligieuse,54–55,137–40,137

rosewater:RoseGlaze,208VanillaRoseGanache,205

rum:CannelédeBordeaux,134–36,134SweetPotatoMousse,214,215–18

S

SabléBretonCookies,126–28CaramelizedSabléBreton,227–31SweetPotatoMontBlanc,214–18,214

SmokedCinnamonIceCream,226–30smokinggun(tip),178S’Mores,Frozen,80,81,82–83,83,176–78,176SoftCaramel,145,146–49

AppleMarshmallow,162–64ChocolateCaviarTart,184–88

SoftCaramel(withfleurdesel),121–23sorbet:GreenAppleSorbet,227–30soufflés:

breakingthesoufflélaws,40ChocolateSoufflé,197,198–200MagicSoufflé,40,41,197–200,197

spiceblend,166sticksorbranches,smoking,178sugars:

CinnamonSugar,180–82MapleSugar,208OrangeSugar,208VanillaSugar,208

SunflowerTart,78–79,79,165–68,165SweetPotatoMontBlanc,84,85,214–18,214SweetPotatoMousse,214,215–18SwissMeringue,116–17

BakedAlaska,226–31SweetPotatoMontBlanc,214–18,214

syrup:CalvadosSyrup,227,229pouringintoeggwhites(tip),160

T

tarts:

tarts:AppleTartTatin,70,71,126–28,126ChocolateCaviarTart,98–99,98,184–88,184“LimeMeUp”Tart,102,103,171–75,171PurpleTart,88–89,89,129–32,129SunflowerTart,78–79,79,165–68,165VanillaSabléTartShells,129,130–32

techniques,233–47cookingcustard,234,235laminating,244–47,246–47PâteàChoux,236,237piping,238–39,239temperingchocolate,242,243

temperature,testing(tip),135Tertulia(restaurant),NewYork,68tips:

agingmacarons,161arrangingfruit,132breadflour,180convectionoven,115conventionaloven,200“drycaramel,”,122eggs,115foldingbutter,180foodcoloring,159gelatinsheets,143gelatin,timetoset,221honey,115inversepuffpastry,180laminatingdough,194meltingchocolateinmicrowave,170meringue,142overmixing,113pâteàchoux,120pectin,155piping,160,239placingparchment,142poachingfruit,131pouringsyrup,160proofingdough,151restingdough,181,182“seeding”chocolate,170smokinggun,178testingproofeddough,152testingtemperature,135warmingfondant,148“wetcaramel,”,122whippedcreamstability,143whippedeggwhites,142whippedganache,156

whippingcream,138“windowpanetest,”,151

V

VanillaChantillyCream,185,187ChocolateCaviarTart,98,184–88,184SweetPotatoMontBlanc,84,214–18,214

VanillaIceCream,46,47,124–25,124BakedAlaska,87,226–31,226FrozenS’Mores,81,82–83,176–78,176

VanillaReligieuse,54–55,137–40,137VanillaRoseGanache,205VanillaSabléTartShells,129,130–32

“LimeMeUp”Tart,103,171,172–75SunflowerTart,165–68,165

VanillaSugar,208VanillaWhippedGanache,137–40

W

WhippedCoffeeGanache,184–88WhippedLemonGanache,206whitechocolate:

AngryEgg,189–92,189CinnamonGanache,219–25LemonGanache,154–57“LimeMeUp”Tart,103,171–75,171PeanutButterCream,145–49,145VanillaRoseGanache,205VanillaWhippedGanache,137–40WhippedCoffeeGanache,184–88WhippedLemonGanache,206WhiteChocolateDécor,174–75

“windowpanetest”(tip),151wonder,senseof,68

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2014024377ISBN978-1-4767-6419-1ISBN978-1-47676421-4(ebook)