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To All Gap, Inc. Vendors,
Attached is the February 2001 QA Manual for Garments, for use as a guide to auditing all GapInc. programs. Following is an outline of the changes that were made from the previous version ofthe manual:
• In-line and Interim inspections have been combined and are now called In-processinspections.
• Forms have been changed to global forms.• Country of Origin information is no longer included in the QA manual the information is
in the Vendor handbook.• Shipment/Packing audit has changed to allow for non-destructive audits.• Added bar-coded ticket OCR ticket/label check into visual audit.• Measurement sampling plan has changed.• Pack audits are now the responsibility of the Vendor.• Change in the sampling plan for outlet.• We have eliminated the double sampling plan.• We have added a section for how to audit tight fitting sleepwear.
It is imperative to retrain your teams and utilize the new handbook effective March 1st, 2001 toaudit our products.
Should you have any questions please contact me directly at (415) 427-6489.
Doreen MallerVice President, Technical Services/Product Integrity/Global QA
Quality Assurance ManualGarments
2001(A Supplement to the Vendor Handbook)
Table of Contents 2Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Table of Contentspage #
Introduction..................................................................................................................................4Contacts.................................................................................................................................5
I. Factory Visit ProceduresPreparation .................................................................................................................... 7
II. Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.)What is A.Q.L.? ............................................................................................................8Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. Standards .......................................................................................8Critical Defects ...........................................................................................................8Result of Finding A Critical Defect ..........................................................................8
III. In-Process Inspection Purpose...........................................................................................................................9In-Process Inspection Forms .....................................................................................9Cutting Inspection Procedures .................................................................................9Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures....................................................................10
IV. Shipment Inspection Purpose...........................................................................................................................12Shipment Inspection Forms .......................................................................................12Shipment Inspection Methods...................................................................................12Measurement Audit .....................................................................................................13
Measurement Audit Procedures.......................................................................13“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures ........................13Measurement Audit Sampling Plan ...................................................................14Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects .........................................14
Visual Audit....................................................................................................................15Visual Audit Methods...........................................................................................15Visual Audit Reference Sheets (Classification of Visual Defects)..............15Visual Audit Sampling Plans ................................................................................15Visual Audit Procedures......................................................................................16
Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits ..............................................18Gap/Old Navy Procedures.................................................................................18Banana Republic Procedures..............................................................................19
Gap Asia Auditing Procedures..................................................................................19Seconds & Overruns ...................................................................................................19Pack Audit......................................................................................................................20
Pack Audit Procedures........................................................................................20Pack Audit Sampling Plan ....................................................................................21
Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Programs ..............................................................22Full Carton/CD Flow Auditing Procedures....................................................22
Japanese Purchase Order Auditing Procedures....................................................23Outlet Division Standards..........................................................................................24Outlet Auditing Forms................................................................................................24
Table of Contents 3Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Table of Contents (con’t)page #
Outlet Auditing Types.................................................................................................24Outlet Auditing Procedures ......................................................................................24Seconds & Overruns ...................................................................................................24Sampling Plan for Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet .................................25Outlet Defects Classification Guide..............................................................................25
V. Safety ProceduresSafety Procedures, kids & baby.................................................................................26
VI. Broken Needle StandardsBroken Needle Forms ................................................................................................27Broken Needle Procedures.......................................................................................27Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures ........................................27
VII. Country of Origin(Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook) ................................................................29
VIII. Carton/Prepack(Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook) ................................................................30
IX. Appendix 1 (General Forms)In-Process Inspection Report....................................................................................AI-2Visual Inspection Worksheet ....................................................................................AI-3In-Process Audit Worksheet ....................................................................................AI-4In-Process Graphics Visual Audit Report...............................................................AI-5Visual Inspection Report ............................................................................................AI-6Finished Product Measurement Sheet.....................................................................AI-8Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Tops).......................................................AI-9Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Bottoms) ................................................AI-10Outlet Inspection Report...........................................................................................AI-11Broken Needle Log .....................................................................................................AI-12Box Audit Worksheet ................................................................................................AI-13
X. Appendix II (Classification of Visual Defects)Woven and Knit Dresses / Jump-suits / Coats / Jackets ....................................AII-2Knit Tops and Activewear .........................................................................................AII-6Woven Shirts ................................................................................................................AII-10Denim Shirts..................................................................................................................AII-13Sweaters .........................................................................................................................AII-16Woven Bottoms...........................................................................................................AII-18Denim Bottoms ............................................................................................................AII-22Blazers.............................................................................................................................AII-26Bras & Bodysuits...........................................................................................................AII-29Underwear.....................................................................................................................AII-32
Introduction 4Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
IntroductionThe purpose of the Quality Assurance Manual is to outline the procedures Quality Assurance personnel (QA) follow whenmeasuring the over-all performance of vendors who manufacture Gap Inc. products. This Manual will guide QA througheach stage of their assignment: new production, monitoring production, performing In-process and shipment audits and,finally, communicating findings to merchandising /production representatives.
In addition to serving as a guide for Gap Inc. QA, this Manual was created to ensure vendors understand Gap Inc.’sexpectations in categories such as product’s visual appearance, measurement accuracy and packing execution.
This Manual is a useful resource for QA personnel, garment vendors and GIS offices that do business withGap Inc. Please familiarize yourself with the Manual in its entirety, paying close attention to Gap Inc.’s quality standardsas well as the penalties resulting from failure to meet those standards.
If you have any questions regarding the standards and procedures included within this manual, please contact:Gap Inc.Attn: Diane Maclane2 Harrison StreetSan Francisco, CA 94105phone: (415) 427-6470
This Manual is the property of Gap Inc. This proprietary information is provided in confidence and is solely for use inconnection with dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. While in your company’s possession, the Manual is to be maintainedin strict confidence and must not be divulged to anyone other than those who need to know its contents for the purpose ofyour dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. The Manual shall be returned to Gap Inc. immediately upon cessation of yourdealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors, or upon Gap Inc.’s request.
ContactsQuality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2000 5
Contacts
GIS Offices
GIS Americas: Regional Director of Quality Assurance5200 Blue Lagoon DriveMiami, FloridaUSA
GIS Hong Kong: China Hong Kong City21st and 22nd Floor, Tower 333 Canton RoadTsimshatsui KowloonHong KongTel: 852.2.730.9883Fax: 852.2.736.8903
GIS Egypt: World Trade Center 1191Corniche El Nil CairoEgypt
GIS Singapore: No. 391B Orchard Road#22-6/7/8/9 Ngee Ann City, SingaporeTower B 238874Tel: 65.734.0388Fax: 65.733.5113
GIS Philippines: 3rd Floor Tesoro Bldg.Amaiz Ave.Makati CityPhilippines
GIS Sri Lanka: Level 6 Valiant Towers #46/7Nawam MawathaColombo 02Sri Lanka
GIS Dubai: LOB 20, G-60 Jebel AliFree Zone Dubai U.A.E.Tel: 97.14.814.483Fax: 97.14.814.788
GIS India: India Liason Office A-8Kailash ColonyNew Delhi 110 048, IndiaTel: 91.11.628.0951Fax: 91.11.628.0978
ContactsQuality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2000 6
Contacts (con’t)GIS Istanbul: Akmerkez B-3 Blok Kat 11
Etiler 80600, Istanbul, TurkeyTel: 90.212.282.0420Fax: 90.212.282.0417
GIS North Africa: Route De SousseTelboulba, ZI 5080 Tunisia
GIS Thailand: Unit 2308 Empire Tower195 South Sathorn RoadYannawa, SathhornBKK 10120, ThailandTel: 662.6700.168.73Fax: 662.6700.176
GIS South Africa: Suite 2305-2307, 23rd floorThe Embassy Building199 Smith StreetDurban 4001, South AfricaTel: 27.31.335.2500Fax: 27.31.368.2628
Factory Visit ProceduresQuality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001 7
I. Factory Visit ProceduresPreparationBefore visiting a factory, a QA representative must carry out the following:
• Verify vendor is on Global Compliance’s approved vendor list.
• Obtain factory contact name, phone number and address.
• Obtain copies of Purchase Orders.
• Secure fabric/yarn color swatches and/or hand and finish standards.
• Obtain the approved sample.
• Obtain manufacturing specifications, including Garment Specification Sheet (GSS).
• Obtain all additional reports relative to production being inspected, such as memos and faxes as well as product/fabric/component testing reports.
• Obtain approved production schedules.
During initial visit, a QA representative must carry out the following:
• Verify factory owns required machinery for attaching buttons (lock-stitch machines), snaps (machines and snap supplier is on approved vendor list).
• Verify factory has testing and in-house monitoring systems in place for safety and performance issues.
• Verify factory has needle control procedures in place and maintains a current broken needle log.
Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.) 8Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
II. Acceptable Quality Level (A.Q.L.)What is A.Q.L.?Acceptable Quality Level is the quality level, which, for purposes of sampling inspection, is the limit of asatisfactory manufacturing process.
Gap Inc.’s A.Q.L. StandardsGap Inc.’s A.Q.L. standards when appraising a vendor’s manufacturing process during shipment audits are as follows:
• 0.1 for appraising Critical Visual Defects• 0.25 for OCR/Ticket Defects• 4.0 or 2.5 for appraising Major Visual Defects (varies by division)• 6.5 for appraising Minor Visual Defects• 6.5 for appraising Major Measurement Defects
(Note: The selection or use of an A.Q.L. does not imply that thecontractor has the right to supply any defective unit of product).
Critical DefectsA Critical Defect is defined as anything potentially harmful to the product user. A Critical Defect can be, but is not limited to,sharp points/edges, broken needles, loose components or other foreign items which are potentially harmful. Improper orinaccurate country of origin or fiber, component content markings and CPSC snug fitting sleepwear measurements that aregreater than tolerance are also considered Critical Defects.
Result of Finding A Critical Defect
VisualIf a Critical Visual Defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected.All Critical Visual Defects must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.
MeasurementDetermine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS). It willstate here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurement page of the GSS,measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS.
Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+) side willbe considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement (those in CAPITAL LETTERS) that is lessthan tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors or majors as stated in the measurementaudit procedures. All other measurement points (those not in capital letters) are counted as minors or majors as stated in themeasurement audit procedures section of this manual.
The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1. If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, theaudit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before thelot can be submitted for a second audit.
In-Process Inspection 9Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
III. In-Process InspectionPurposeThe purpose of an In-Process inspection is to check the following: raw materials, marker layout, spreading, cutting, sewing,wet processing, screen printing, pressing and other embellishments. Sampling plan should not be used at this stage since a lotsize is a bundle. For woven and knit production, the first In-Process inspection begins when knitting/weaving commences.
While inspecting semi-finished goods and batches during work-in-process, records need be kept on defects found fordiscussion and communication with the manufacturer/GIS production representatives.
The number of defects found during a cutting, measurement or visual inspection should be noted on the various In-Processreports. It is not the purpose of the In-Process inspection to try and measure percent defective, but to identify potentialproblems. These In-Process reports will be the basis for data collection and evaluation.
In-Process Inspection FormsAt relevant stages of the In-Process Inspection use the following forms:
• In-Process Inspection Report• In-Process Audit Worksheet• In-Process Graphics Worksheet (optional)
An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note these forms must beused as is during the In-Process Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact DianeMaclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Cutting Inspection ProceduresThe following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process cutting inspection:
• Verify and record fabric test reports.
• After cutting, perform visual and measurement (i.e. top to bottom ply, hard pattern to cut pieces),inspection of cut parts using the In-Process Visual Inspection Report (use the Fabric/Cutting Checklistand defective portion).
• Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.
• If the factory can not correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contactedfor corrective action.
• If questions regarding specifications, fabric/material standard, color, etc. arise, the merchandiser/productionrepresentative should be contacted for corrective action.
In-Process Inspection 10Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Trim & Sewing Inspection ProceduresThe following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process inspection:
• All fabric/components/trims/labels should be checked against production approved standards, and mustreflect correct country of origin and fiber/component content. Review and record all required Gap, Inc.fabric/component/product test reports.
• Verify needle control and safety procedures are being followed.
• Check to be sure that all components/trims/labels are available so production schedules can be met.
• Perform random check in sewing lines/finishing. Verify factory is checking at least six pieces of eachoperator’s semi-finished goods to check for workmanship defects. Record finding on the appropriateIn-process inspection report.
• Check hand/color against approved standards. If standards are not available, send the merchandiser/productionrepresentative examples of fabric colors and range of shades.
• Measure placement and size of pattern pieces against specification sheet.
• Check seam construction, thread color and size against specification sheet.
• Check that all small parts are securely attached.
• Record and indicate any problems in the space provided in the In-Process Visual Inspection Worksheet
• Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.
• If the factory cannot correct the problem, the merchandiser/production representative should be contactedfor corrective action.
• If questions regarding construction, measurements, fabric standard, color, etc. arise, themerchandiser/production representative should be contacted for answers.
• All measurement points listed in the measurement box of the specification sheet are to be measured on atleast one product of each size and color during the In-Process inspection (i.e. on unwashed or rigid garment).This is to be done using pattern yield measurements, which are to be provided by the Vendor. Any discrepanciesare to be noted on the In-Process Visual Inspection Report and brought to the attention of the Vendor andmerchandiser/production representative.
In-Process Inspection 11Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
In-Process Inspection Procedures (con’t)• Record the locations of all operations such as knitting, linking and finishing. Also, record the appraisal of the
factory’s capacities. The first In-Process inspection must begin at the knitting stage with photographs takenof every style during work in progress. Knitting panel inspection must be conducted at the intervals listedbelow depending on the size of a program:
a) Up to 5,000 pieces. At least one in-Process audit must be conducted whenthe knitting of 20% of the panels completed.
b) 5,001 to 10,000 pieces. At least two In-Process audits must be conducted whenthe knitting of 20% and 50% completed.
c) Above 10,000 pieces. At least three In-Process audits must be conducted whenthe knitting of 20%, 50%, and 80% completed.
• When products are transferred from one location to another, a visual and measurement inspection report mustbe performed using the same criteria as the shipment Inspection procedures. Any discrepancies are to be notedon the Visual and Measurements Inspection report and brought to the attention of the Vendor andmerchandiser/production representative.
Shipment Inspection 12Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
IV. Shipment InspectionPurposeThe purpose of a shipment inspection is to determine the quality of an order by its visual appearance, measurementto specifications and packing execution. The shipment inspection is performed before the finished product is shipped.This is done in order to minimize the arrival of defective product to Gap Inc. distribution centers, stores or otherdesignated locations.
Shipment Inspection FormsAt relevant stages of the Shipment Inspection use the following forms.
• Visual Inspection Report• Box Audit Worksheet (optional)• Finished Product Measurement Sheet• Finished Product Measurement Sheet - Tops (optional)• Finished Product Measurement Sheet – Bottoms (optional)
An example of each form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note, these forms must beused as is during the Shipment Inspection. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contactDiane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Shipment Inspection MethodsWhen auditing garments for measurements and visuals, there are two methods that may be used in relationto the timing of the audit. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap designated personnelperforming the audit. However, the most proactive and preferred method is the non-destructive procedure.
Option 1: During the packing process, this type of audit combines Measurements, Visual, Packaging,and Packing.
Option 2: A non-destructive audit may be performed for measurements, visuals, and packaging before thegarments are boxed. Packing audits must be performed during the boxing/packing process to verify labels,assortments, and counts.
Shipment Inspection 13Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Measurement AuditMeasurement Audit ProceduresThe following are QA procedures when performing a measurement audit:
• Measurements should be taken on products after wash, after press and sometimes before packing. Majormeasurement defects are to be judged using an A.Q.L. of 6.5. Only critical measurement points highlightedon the specification sheet (*) are taken at the time of the shipment audit. A product with more than onemajor measurement defect is counted as a major defect.
• Select samples at random.
• Measure products at critical measurement points which are noted with a (*) on the approved specification sheet.
• Record all measurements taken on the Finished Product Measurement Form.
• Determine the results based on the A.Q.L. 6.5 pass/fail levels for major defects, and the percent defectivefor minor defects (Reference Measurement Audit Sampling Plan).
• Put a CIRCLE around minor defects (i.e. measurements which are out of tolerance but do not exceed grade).Waist measurements on woven bottoms, which are out of tolerance, are to be counted asmajor defects. Please check the waist and inseam requirements on the specification sheetfor what constitutes a major defect on every style, as this can vary between styles and fabrics.
• Put a TRIANGLE around major defects (i.e. measurements that are out of tolerance and exceed the grade). If ameasurement point has no grade or if the grade is less than the stated tolerance or measurements that exceedthe tolerance than it will be considered major defects.
• If the total number of circled measurements is less than or equal to the number of minor defects allowed, andif the total number of triangle measurements is less than or equal to the number of major defects allowed, themeasurement audit passes. Both minor and major measurements must be in the allowed range to pass themeasurement audit.
• If the total number of circled measurements is more than the number of minor defects allowed, the auditfails.
• If the total number of triangle measurements is more than the number of majors allowed, the audit fails.
“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit ProceduresThe following are QA procedures when performing a measurement audit for “Snug Fitting Sleepwear”:
• Determine if the product is 'Snug Fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page of the spec (GSS).It will state here if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC regulations. Also, on the measurementpage of the GSS, measurements that are governed by the CPSC regulations will be in CAPITAL LETTERS.
• Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.(Measurement Audit Sampling Plan, page 16)
Shipment Inspection 14Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
“Snug Fitting Sleepwear” Measurement Audit Procedures (con’t)• Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL LETTERS - that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+)
side will be considered a critical measurement defect. Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITALLETTERS - that is less than tolerance on the minus (-) side, are not considered Critical defects but as minors ormajors as stated in the measurement audit procedures. All other measurement points - those not in capital letters -are counted as minors or majors as stated in the measurement audit procedures section of this manual.
• The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1.
• If a critical measurement defect is found during an audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot tobe inspected. All critical measurements must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.
Measurement Audit Sampling PlanDetermine the number of garments to sample, according to the following sampling plan chart:
Measurements ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 6.5 A.Q.L.
Major 6.5Lot Size –Mixed Color Sample SizePass Fail
1 Color 20 3 42 Colors 32 5 63 Colors 50 7 84 Colors 80 10 115 Colors 80 10 11More than (5) Colors 125 14 15
Pass/Fail Levels for Minor Measurement Defects• For woven and knit items, 10% of measurement points pass if found to be out of tolerance,
but not exceeding the grade (e.g. If there are 9 measurement points on a pant and 32 garments to bemeasured, there would be a total of 288 measurement points. That shipment will then pass, if there arenot more than 29 minor defect measurement points (10%) out of the 288 taken out of tolerance).
• For sweater items, 15% of the measurement points will pass if out of tolerance, but not exceedinggrade. Apply the same formula found above.
• If the audit fails, the merchandiser/production representative should be notified for corrective action.
Shipment Inspection 15Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Visual Audit
Visual Audit MethodsThere are two methods for auditing visuals. The method selected is solely at the discretion of the Gap Inc.designated personnel performing the audit:
Option 1: Non-Destructive Visual Audit (audit performed before garments boxed).
Option 2: Visual Auditing begins after boxing/packing process has started.
Visual Audit Forms and Reference SheetsAt relevant stages of the Visual Audit, use the following forms:
• Visual Inspection Report• Visual Inspection Worksheet (tool to be used for non-destructive audits that occur over an extended period of time)
At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, reference the Classification of Visual Defects Sheets (Chapter X, Appendix II).
An example of each form can be found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. An example of each reference sheetcan found in Chapter XI, Appendix II, of this manual. Please note these forms and sheets must be used as isduring the Visual Audit. If there are questions or change requests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclaneat (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Visual Audit Sampling PlansThe sampling plans used for both audits are as follows:
Gap, GapKids, babyGap, Old Navy Adults/Kids/Baby and OutletFirst Quality Production
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1)
Shipment SizeLot
Garment Visuals Ticket Check(OCR)
SampleSize
Critical 0.1Pass/Fail
Major 4.0Pass/Fail
Minor 6.5Pass/Fail
Major .25Pass/Fail
0-500 20 0/1 2/3 3/4 0/1501-1,200 32 0/1 3/4 5/6 0/11,201-3,200 50 0/1 5/6 7/8 0/13,201-10,000 80 0/1 7/8 10/11 0/110,001-35,000 125 0/1 10/11 14/15 1/235,001-UP 200 0/1 14/15 21/22 1/2
Shipment Inspection 16Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Visual Audit Sampling Plans (con’t)
Banana Republic and Japan Orders ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1)
Shipment SizeLot
Garment Visuals Ticket Check(OCR)
SampleSize
Critical 0.1Pass/Fail
Major 2.5Pass/Fail
Minor 6.5Pass/Fail
Major .25Pass/Fail
0-500 20 0/1 1/2 3/4 0/1501-1,200 32 0/1 2/3 5/6 0/11,201-3,200 50 0/1 3/4 7/8 0/13,201-10,000 80 0/1 5/6 10/11 0/110,001-35,000 125 0/1 7/8 14/15 1/235,001-UP 200 0/1 10/11 21/22 1/2
Visual Audit ProceduresThe following are QA procedures when performing a visual audit:
• Since this type audit may take place over an extended period of time (e.g. more than one day),the non-destructive visual process is selected and the Visual Inspection Worksheet may be used.
• When the visual audit is performed over more than one day, the results recorded on the Visual InspectionWorksheet must be reviewed and signed by factory management. The information on this worksheetmust be transferred and attached to the Visual Inspection Report.
• When this visual audit procedure is employed, the Gap representative must insure immediate corrective actionis taken to correct any defects found. This will insure other garments in this audit will not contain thefollowing defects:
a) Critical visual defects are based on an A.Q.L. of 0.1 for all divisions.Critical visual defects are defined as defects that may cause bodily injury to thewearer. One critical defect found during the shipment audit would cause the auditto fail. All the goods in a fail audit must be re-inspected 100% by factory to removeall critical defective items prior to been audited again by Gap field auditor or itsappointed agent.
b) OCR/Ticket/Label Check is based on a 0.25 AQL.
c) Major visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 4.0 for Gap Divisions and Old Navy,2.5 for Banana Republic and product being sold in Japan.
d) Minor visual defects are based upon an A.Q.L. of 6.5 for all divisions.
e) Pass/fail numbers for minor/major defects are to be counted separately.
Shipment Inspection 17Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Visual Audit Procedures (con’t)f) Any trim that contains an OCR (BARCODE) information must be audited during the Visual
auditing process. This will be a separate audit and results must be posted to the Visual InspectionReport. When an incorrect OCR trim/label/ticket is detected, the facility must perform anadditional audit of OCR trims to determine the severity of the problem as well as the correction.This audit will consist of a sample size of 315 pieces. This audit will pass on two (2) incorrectOCR trims and fail on three (3). The AQL for the OCR trims/label/ticket audit is 0.25. If thisadditional audit passes, the entire audit may be passed. However, if this second (additional) audit fails,the factory must re-inspect 100% of the shipment for incorrect OCR trims. OCR trims are normallyprice tickets on knits and woven shirts and matchbooks on woven etc. bottoms. The OCR is theline that is scanned in the stores that indicates the price and style. This information is vital to insurethat the replenishment of inventory in our Distribution Centers and stores is accurate.
g) While performing the visual audit any defects as follows will be counted as a major defect in thevisual audit:
1) Incorrect size strip (31x31 strip on a 34x31 pair of pants)2) Incorrect flasher3) Incorrect (wrong size) of logo label4) Incorrect non-OCR (BARCODED) price ticket
(These items must correspond to the Bill of Materials(BOM) on the GSS as to item number and size)
5) Above items are coordinated by size and style
h) The lot size is the total number of units to the shipment. The selection of a random samplemust be conducted according to ratio based on quantity, number of sizes, and various colorsin a program.
i) Sample size will depend on the size of the lot and sampling plan used.
j) More than one major defect per product should only be counted as one major defect.
k) If consistent minor defects occur which affect the overall appearance of the product, theshipment audit fails. This failure must be brought to the attention of the merchandise/productionrepresentative.
l) Samples are to be taken randomly and must include all sizes.
m) Defective labeling (defined by incorrect country of origin or fiber content) on anyportion of the shipment will result in failure and rejection of the shipment. Refer toVendor Handbook for country of origin information.
• If the number of visual defects is equal to or less than the number allowed per the sampling plan, the auditpasses. The defective products found are to be sent back for repair or seconded.
• If the number of visual defects is more than the number allowed, the audit fails. The merchandiser/productionrepresentative is to be notified to determine disposition of the shipment.
• Complete the Visual Inspection Report. Record the fabric/production test reports numbers in the appropriatearea. If not available, fax to production representative and Director of Product Integrity.
Shipment Inspection 18Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Visual Audit Procedures (con’t)• If the audit fails, record when the re-audit is to take place in the comment column. If re-audit takes place at
that time, use the same procedures as new audit, including packing.
• If shade variations occur within a shipment, the merchandiser/production representative is to be notified andsamples sent to merchandiser/production representative for approval.
• If the merchandiser/production representative requests that the shades be separated the carton shade marksshould be checked during shipment.
• During the shipment audit, packaging and labeling should be checked closely to insure conformance to standardsincluding proper Country of Origin and fiber content markings.
• When multiple Purchase Orders are ready for shipment, they can be combined and the audit performed on asample taken from this combination. If the audit fails, all Purchase Orders fail; if it passes all Purchase Orderspass.
• It is mandatory to check the weight of each size for the following garments at shipment audit. Sweatersand fine knit for babyGap (for quota purposes).
Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits
Gap / Old Navy ProceduresSweatersThree pieces of the median size (the average of the smallest to the largest in the range) are weighed.The results are added together, and then divided by three (3). This will determine the average weightper sweater.
babyGap Fine KnitsThree pieces of every size are weighed and the individual readings are recorded. The results are forwardedto babyGap merchants to determine quota issues. It is not necessary for QA to comment on whether theweight meets the required tolerance.
Shipment Inspection 19Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Measuring the Weight of Sweaters and Fine Knits (con’t)
Banana Republic ProceduresSweatersSweaters of every size in a program must be weighed individually and calculated for average weight based onthe required size ratio in a placement memorandum according to the below listed procedures:
a) Assuming that the required size ratio is 1:2:2:1 (XS/S/M/L).
b) Randomly select four sweaters of every size; weigh them individually and record the results forthe interim audit report.
c) Calculate the average weight of each sweater size by adding the four (4) readings together and dividingby four (4).
d) Based on the size ratio 1:2:2:1, the average overall weight of a sweater is calculated in thefollowing manner:
(avg. wt. of sizes “xs” x sz ratio 1) + (avg. wt. of size “s” x sz ratio 2) +(avg. wt. of size “m” x sz ratio) + (avg. wt. of size “l” x ratio 1) /four (4) =overall weight of sweater.
Gap Asia Pacific ProceduresShipment audit will not be carried out on new store orders or shipment quantities of up to 1,000 units or less by color.Instead it is the responsibility of the Vendor to perform the necessary audit, and insure that the shipped merchandise meetsGap’s quality standards. QA will issue an “OK to Ship” report using a shipment report form printed with a“Shippers’ Declaration”.
Seconds & OverrunsVendors must be reminded that all seconds or overruns sold to anyone other than Gap Inc., must have all Gap Inc.logos, labels, or other identification removed in accordance to the guidelines outlined in the Vendor Handbook.After all are removed, then an audit must be scheduled to verify that the removal has been executed correctly.
Shipment Inspection 20Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Pack AuditTerms to know during the pack audit: “FA” means Factory Audit and “AA” means Audit Assessment. These termsmust be used to differentiate similar terms used in the Distribution Centers.
Pack Audits ProceduresThe factory is responsible for the pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a pack audit:
• The pack audit must be performed as a separate audit.
• The pack audit is the responsibility of the facility/vendor.
• Before beginning this assessment, QA personnel must ask the factory/vendor representativefor the results of their audit. When performing this assessment, the Gap Inc. auditor must place a “AA”on each box in the assessment. This will be placed in the same area as the “FA”. Otherwise, place this inthe upper right hand of the box information label in a 1”x1” space. This “AA” is not to be covered by tape orlabels because it will be used by Distribution Center QA during their pack assessment.
• Gap Inc. QA or those designated by Gap Inc. to perform shipment audits, will be responsible for a 10%assessment of this factory/vendor audit.
Major Defects for Pack Auditsa) Incorrect quantityb) Carton labeling errorsc) Incorrect Pre-Pack
• Assortments• Amounts• Pre-Pack Stickers
d) Carton not as specified (size and construction)e) Crushed or damaged cartonsf) Use of wire or metal strapping to strap cartons
• When performing the pack audit, the vendor must place an “FA” on each box audited. This “FA” must be placedin a one inch by one inch space (1x1) at the top right hand corner of the box information label (the labelcontaining Purchase Order, style, quantity, etc.). This “FA” must not be covered with tape or other labels.because it will be used as a guide by Gap Inc. field personnel and Gap Inc. Distribution Centers to verifyaudits and assess these cartons.
Shipment Inspection 21Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Pack Audit Procedures (con’t)• Upon failure of an assessment, the auditor will continue the random sampling, using the Factory Pack Audit
Sample Plan. If the Factory Pack Audit fails, the factory must then take appropriate action to correct theproblems found. Discuss the results with factory representatives. Receive and record the factory action plan tocorrect the issues found in the audit. A re-audit will then be performed (not assessment) to verify the packingerrors were corrected. A re-audit will be performed and recorded on a separate Visual Inspection Report. Attachthis re-audit to the original Visual Inspection Report.
• Upon completion of this assessment and/or audit, complete the appropriate section in the Visual InspectionReport. Record the results of the Audit Assessment (AA) and the results of the Factory Audit (FA).
• If problems found create shipping delays, notify the merchandiser/production representative for corrective action.
• The assessment will be performed on 10% of the number of boxes that are audited by the factory/vendor.Example: if there are 1005 boxes in the shipment, the factory/vendor will audit 80 boxes. Gap Inc. personnelwould then perform an 8 box assessment (10% of 80 boxes). Again there is a zero tolerance in this assessment.Any defects will require more action to be taken (i.e. complete audit, re-inspect by factory, etc.) Theassessment may or may not be taken for the same exact boxes on the Factory (FA) Audit. The best practicewould be to pull the sample from both populations (boxes not in FA and boxes in FA).
Pack Audits Sampling PlanThe pack audit sampling plan for the factory/vendor is as follows:
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (2) .65 AQL
Factory Pack Audit Sample Plan# of cartons Sample Size Pass Fail5-15 3 0 115-50 8 0 151-150 20 0 1151-500 50 1 2501-1,200 80 1 21,201-UP 125 2 3
Shipment Inspection 22Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Full Carton/CD Flow Pack ProgramsEach vendor who participates in Gap, Inc.’s full carton pack program should establish a packing audit system.
Prototype PackFor each Full Carton/CD Flow Pack purchase order, the Vendor is required to have in their packingdepartment a prototype packed carton for training. This prototype is to be approved by Gap QA.
Sample SizeThe Vendor should determine what quantity of cartons can be packed, and held, before closing the cartons.This carton quantity becomes the population from which the sample is drawn. The way a sampling planworks is the larger the population the smaller the sample size is as a percent of the population. To optimizethe inspection time, the maximum quantity of cartons packed and labeled but not closed is desired. Oncethat number is determined, the Vendor should choose the sampling size from the pack audit’s sampling plan(0.65 AQL).
Full Carton/CD Flow Pack Auditing ProceduresThe factory is responsible for the full carton pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a full cartonpack audit:
• It is important for the Vendor to keep the population size at a level that takes into consideration the stagingarea available as well as the factory’s accuracy history. If an audit does not take place until the population islarge, a great deal of extra handling will take place if it fails. We recommend that in the beginning, a Vendorthat is new to full carton pre-packs choose a small population to audit until history can be developed andexpertise learned.
• A same criterion for major packing errors is to be used as a normal shipment audit; use the same criterion aslisted under Pack Audits. (FA and AA procedures).
• Gap Inc. will perform an assessment after the audit is completed by the factory/vendor.
• Should Vendors allow improperly packaged merchandise to ship, it will be the responsibility of the Vendorto pay for any special handling required later, in order to correct those errors at Gap Inc.’s DistributionCenters.
Shipment Inspection 23Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Japanese Purchase Orders Auditing ProceduresAll Japanese purchase order shipments are required to be audited against an A.Q.L. level of 2.5 majors and 6.5minors for final shipment audits.
All goods shipped against Japanese purchase orders are required to go through a second 100% inspection bythe factory after trimming and before packing. This is for the company’s benefit only (not to be considered acceptanceof any goods) and is performed to ensure that the following points are confirmed before shipping:
• Loose threads are properly trimmed and loose buttons attached properly.
• Needle control/metal detector procedures followed.
• No sharp metal points.
• Paper care/content label in Japanese is in the garment and properly placed.
• Leg sticker/matchbook and any trim items are correctly coordinated to size label.
• Price ticket in Yen attached to garment with correct retail price.
• No dirt spots or stains.
• Pressing is to company standards and as specified for product.
Shipment Inspection 24Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Outlet Division Standards
Outlet Audit FormsAt the relevant stage of an Outlet Audit, use the following form:
• Visual Inspection Report• Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report
An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. If there are questions or changerequests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Outlet Division Auditing TypesAll rejected products must first be offered to the Outlet Division. There are three types of audits for Outlet:
Type 1: First quality product sold to or produced for Outlet with Outlet labels. Apply samemethods for audit as any Gap Inc. division. This audit will be recorded on the Visual InspectionReport.
Type 2: First quality product sold or produced for Outlet with Banana Republic labels andcrossed through with a gold pen. Use the most current Banana Republic A.Q.L. for inspection.For Gap, GapKids, and babyGap main labels crossed through with gold pen, use themost current A.Q.L. used by each department for the inspection. This audit will be recordedon the Visual Inspection Report.
Type 3: Product rejected by merchandising or production and purchased by Outlet. This maybe a complete program or rejected units within a program. This audit is performed to assureproduct purchased meets Outlet standards. (i.e. does not contain packing errors or any productconsidered as a third). This audit will be recorded on the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.
Outlet Division Auditing Procedures• Packing audits are to be conducted using Level (2) .65 AQL (see Pack Audit, page:).
• Merchandise not gold lined through the labels, as described in the Vendor Handbook, are considered majors.
• Thirds are defined as merchandise that is not wearable or would cause embarrassment to the wearer.
• Complete and submit to Outlet, the Visual Inspection Report and/or the Gap Factory Outlet Inspection Report.
Seconds & OverrunsFor Outlet internal purposes, we define seconds garments as those that are wearable with unnoticeable flaws.These defects should not be conspicuous to the average customer.
The Outlet Classification Guide provided below references two types of merchandise: “seconds” and “thirds.”Outlet is generally interested in first quality or seconds. This defect Guide applies only to Outlet, and does not alteror change in any way the Company’s quality standards or any Company requirements in the Vendor Handbook.
This in only a reference tool. All seconds, overruns, unused goods or rejected goods of any kind must still beoffered to Outlet regardless of the QA Classification guide below. If you have questions, please contact Outlet.Note: Outlet will not except any product that has a critical defect; also, vendor must forward to Outlet 3 samples:2 that reflect the majority of the flaws and 1 that represents the worst case scenario (please indicate accordingly).
Shipment Inspection 25Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Sampling Plan for Rejected Product Purchased by Outlet
ANZI/ASQC Z!.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1) 1.5 AQL
Size of Shipment Sample Size Thirds
Pass Fail0-500 20 1 2501-1,200 32 1 21,201-3,200 50 2 33,201-10,000 80 3 410,001-35,000 125 5 6
Outlet Defect Classification Guide
DEFECTS CLASS OF GARMENT
SECONDS THIRDS/ NOTACCEPTABLE
1. Garments not to color standard X
2. Shading - garment to garment X
3. Slight shading within garments X
4. Measurements out of tolerance(Excluding CPSC requirementson children’s sleepwear)
X
5. Twisting or torquing up to 50% greater than 1st qualitystandard
X
6. Light fastness greater than 1.5, less than 3.5 X
7. Abrasion greater than standard X on approval
8. Underweight garments X on approval
9. Incorrect "hand" to standard X
10. Noticeable fabric flaws X on approval
11. Sewing flaws resulting in puckering, broken stitches, needlecuts, needle chews and needle holes
X
12. Stained or soiled garments that are not cleanable X
13. Repairs of sewing and finishing defects X
14. Screen printing not as specified X
15. Mismatched parts or plaids not as specified X
16. Light fastness less than or equal to 1.5 X
17. Holes X
18. Crocking below standard X
19. Product with Critical defects X
20. Non-repairable sewing defects X
21. Rags - incomplete garments X
22. Non-repairable hardware defects, e.g. snaps, zippers, etc. X
23. Screen printing - poor resolution or not aligned X
Safety Procedures 26Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
X. Safety ProceduresIt is mandatory that all raw materials, trim components, and actual production garments be evaluated by aGap, Inc. approved testing laboratory. For specific information regarding Gapkids and babyGap, refer to Gap Inc.’sProduct Safety Standards and Procedures Manual for Infants and Children.
The following are QA procedures when performing a Safety audit:
• Check factory Needle Control Procedure Log; sign and date log. Ask factory management andoperators to explain needle control procedures. Make sure log is filled out properly and is up to date.Take a photocopy of the latest entry page; attach to your report.
• Check needle detector if factory has one. Check date of machine’s last service and calibration. Test machineand it’s sensitivity adjustment. Perform test with 1.2mm sphere test card. Review occurrence log forneedles that have been detected.
• Check for lock-stitch button machines. If there are none, report to merchant as soon as possible. Adviseoperable factory that lock-stitch button machines are required. If they have lock-stitch, verify they haveenough machines to handle production requirements, using the Pull Test.
• Check snap equipment and parts to make sure they are on the approved list of suppliers. Make surepneumatic and electric press equipment is made by an approved snap vendor. Make sure dies match snapsand that prongs on snaps are long enough to properly mate and secure the snap, using the Pull Test.Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP for further instruction.
• Hand/foot press or flywheel equipment is not allowed. Refer to the Snap Attachment SOP forfurther instruction.
Broken Needle Standards 27Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
VI. Broken Needle Standards
Broken Needle FormsAt relevant stages of the Broken Needle Inspection, use the following form.
• Broken Needle Log
An example of the form can found in Chapter X, Appendix I, of this manual. Please note that this form must be usedduring the Broken Needle Inspection. If need be, additional columns can be added to the forms for documentinginformation, but existing columns/formatting can not be removed from this form. If there are questions or changerequests regarding the forms, contact Diane Maclane at (415) 427-6470 in San Francisco, Gap Inc. Headquarters.
Broken Needle ProceduresThe following are Needle procedures for vendors when manufacturing garment:
• Operators should not possess any spare needles.
• Replacement needles should be stored in a locked closet.
• Worn needles should be disposed of in a sealed container.
• When needles break, every effort must be made to locate all fragments.
• If all fragments cannot be found, component or garment must be destroyed.
• Breakage must be recorded in the broken needle log.
• Broken or used needles should not be around machines or on factory floor.
• Pins, staples, wire or metal clips should not be used in the bundling, sewingor laundry process.
Verification of Factory’s Needle Control ProceduresThis is a clearly defined method to verify that factories are following needle control procedures. All QA representativeswho conduct in-factory audits on Gap Inc.’s behalf such as Gap Inc.’s sourcing channels/agents/QA staff are responsiblefor this task.
The inspection steps outlined in these procedures will allow you to quickly determine if factories are correctly following ourneedle control procedures:
• Before you start to do In-Process audits, you should walk through the production lines to verifyneedle control procedures.
• Ask a few operators, at random, to explain what they do if a needle breaks. Proceed to do audit, ifthey detail the correct procedure. If they are not following the correct procedure, discuss yourfindings with the factory manager.
Broken Needle Standards 28Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures (con’t)• Search the floor for used or broken needle parts. Pick up and save any you find to discuss with
factory management.
• Check around a few operators’ machines for spare or broken needles. Lift the machine head to seeif used or broken needles are present in the oil pan. Collect and save needles to discuss with factorymanagement.
• Check the broken needle log for accuracy. Sign and date the log if it is in order. Make sure allbroken parts have been found and are taped to the log for each entry. If only part of the brokenneedle is attached to log, further investigation is required.
• Vendors who have needle detection equipment must verify the calibration and accuracy o themachine once per hour. This can be done with a 1.2mm check card. A log should be kept to recordany broken needles or other metal products found.
• OSHA requires that contaminated needles, those that may or may not be broken but havepunctured human skin, must be disposed of in a blood borne pathogen container.
Country of Origin 29Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
VII. Country of Origin
Refer to Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook
Carton/Prepack 30Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
VIII. Carton/PrepackFor carton sizes, specifications, labelling and pre-pack definitions referto Gap Inc.’s Vendor Handbook
Appendix I AI-1Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
IX. Appendix I (General Forms)Summary of Quality Assurance general forms used duringvarious inspection points, as explained in this manual:
In-Process Inspection ReportVisual Inspection WorksheetIn-Process Audit WorksheetIn-Process Graphics Visual Audit ReportVisual Inspection ReportFinished Product Measurement SheetFinished Product Measurement Sheet (Tops)Finished Product Measurement Sheet (Bottoms)Outlet Inspection ReportBroken Needle LogBox Audit Worksheet
GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING (________________OFFICE
IN-PROCESS INSPECTION REPORT RANDOM/UNANNOUNCEDIN LINE (SCHEDUALED)
STYLE NO.______________________ CONTRACT SHIPMENT DATE_______________INSPECTION DATE:_________P.O. NO. ______________________ ANTICIPATED SHIPMENT DATE_____________INSPECTION LOCATION_____ ______________________ ORDER QUANTITY_____________________ VENDOR:__________________DEPT.:_________________________ COLOR:______________________________ FACTORY:_________________FABRIC TEST # __________________ FACTORY CODE____________PRODUCT DESCRIPTION:________________________________________ AUDITOR:__________________
PLANNED PRODUCTION ARRANGEMENT (COMPLETE AT "IN-LINE ONE" ONLY EXCEPT FOR CHANGES TO PLAN
FACTORY COUNTRY LOCATIO YES NO YES NO YES NO YES NO YES NO
MANFACTORING PROCESS CONFERRING COUNTRY OF ORIGIN
ACTUAL PRODUCTION STATUS: FABRIC(EG. BLANKETS KTS. PANEL ASSEMBLY
FABRIC CUTTING SEWING FINISHING
SHADING THREAD WASHING IRONING/SHAPE
STRIPE MATCH SEAM CLR FASTNES OTHERS
CUTTING REPORTS STITCH CLEANING
PATTERN SHAPES/SYMMETR PRESSING
MARKER BUTTON HOLES FOLDING
PLY MATCHING POCKETING TICKETING
LABEL POSITION HANGTAGS
OTHER HEMMING POLYBAG
BARTACKING CARTON
LINING MARKINGS
SPECS PACKING
A = ACCEPTABLE U = UNACCEPTABLE N/A = NOT APPLICABLE
I CONFIRM ACCURACY OF ALL INFORMATION ABOVE CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY VENDOR / FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE
AND AGREE TO MAKE CORRECTIONS AS PER ABOVE __________________________ _____________________________
COMMENTS IMMEDIATELY SIGNATURE DATE
__________________________ _____________________________AUDITOR INITIALS / DATE Q.A. MANAGER INITIALS / DATE
MAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPINFINISHING
SAME AS IN-LINE ONE
FABRIC/KNIT PANELCUTTINGMINOR SEWING
CUTTING/KNITTINGMINOR SEWINGMAJOR SEWING/ ASSEMBLED/ LOOPIN
STATUS
SAFETY CHECK
NEEDLE CONTRO
FINISHING PACKING
LINKING/LOOPING/ MENDING
SNAP TEST
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PULL TESTING
NECK STRETRCH GA
NEEDLE DETECT
SNAP MACHINE OTHER
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KNITTING
MEND
BTN/ HOLES
BARTAKING
Appendix IQuality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
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GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING
( OFFICE)
VISUAL INSPECTION REPORT SHIPMENT
REAUDIT
VENDOR__________________ ORDER QTY.__________________INSPECTION DATE_________DIVISION_________________ VENDOR STYLE#______________ AUDITOR_________________CONT. SHIP DATE__________ FIRST COSTS$________________ INSPECTION LOCATION_____COLOR___________________ FACTORY_________________DESCRIPTION_____________________________________________ FACTORY CODE___________
DC P.O. # SHIP QTY DC P.O. # GAP STYLE# SHIP QTY
______________________ ________________________
______________________ _______________________
Merchandising Team Comments: _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
AUDIT PASSED AUDIT FAILED
INSP. QTY. _________________________________________
DEFECTIVE QTY: CRITICAL MAJOR MINOR
ACCEPT QTY: CRITICAL MAJOR MINOR
OCR TICKET/LABEL CHECK PASS FAIL
SUMMARY: ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________COMMENTS: _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
CONFIRMED & SIGNED BY: (FACTORY REP)
Q.A. MANAGER (DATE)
MERCHANDISER (DATE) MERCHANDISING MG (DATE)
AUDITOR (DATE)
GAP STYLE#
Appendix I Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-6
GAP INTERNATIONAL SOURCING
NO. CRITICAL MAJOR MINOR
CTN. Ship CTN. INSP. Defective QTY
Packing Defects ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
TEST REPORT# WT. PER DOZ. ACTUALPULL TEST# _________GARMENT TEST# _________FABRIC TEST# _________
THE ABOVE AUDIT IS A RANDOM REPRESENTATIVE SAMPLING OF THE WHOLE LOT ONLY.ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC.
MERCHANDISING
SPEC.
VISUAL DEFECT
PACK ACCURACY CHECK
TOTAL
Appendix I Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
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GAP INC.
Outlet Factory Outlet INSPECTION REPORT SHIPMENT
DATE
GFO STYLE# VENDOR/MAKER: ADDRESS:
PREPACK# QTY ORDERED: DEPT:
PO# QTY TO BE SHIPPED: AUDITOR:
GFO RETAIL PRICE ON TICKET: UNITS PER CARTON: COLOR:
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN: TOTAL CARTONS: DESCRIPTION:
No.
TOTALSACCEPT REJECT
AUDIT PASSED AUDIT FAILED %
INSPECTED QTY. 1. All garments lined through with gold marker.DEFECTIVE QTY. THIRDS % 2. All garments are to be ticketed correctly.
3. Fit / Size strips placed on all denim and twill pantsINSPECTED QTY. 4. Prepack definitions are correct.DEFECTIVE QTY. THIRDS % 5. Correct number of units are packed per carton.
6. Verify all carton label information is correct.INSPECTED QTY.DEFECTIVE QTY. THIRDS % Packing Defectives
Type of Defect Qty. FoundDEFECTIVE % THIRDS %SUMMARY:
COMMENTS: Sample Size:
MERCHANDISING TEAM COMMENTS:CONFIRMED AND SIGNED BY:FACTORY REPRESENTATIVE:
QA SIGNATURE (DATE) MERCHANDISER (DATE) MERCHANDISER (DATE)DIR. OF PRODUCTION
The audit above is a random representative sampling of the whole lot only.ACCEPTANCE OF GOODS CONTINGENT UPON FINAL INSPECTION APPROVAL AT THE GAP INC.’SSPECIFIED SHIP TO DESTINATIONS (QA MANUAL 02/01
Audit Passed:Audit Failed:
Thirds
Cumulative Sample
2nd sample
1st sampleVerify the following informtion and check
block to the right.
Defectives
ACCEPT/REJECT RANGE
Appendix I Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AI-11
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Appendix II AII-1Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
X. Appendix II (Classification of Visual Defects)The following details by product type major, minor and critical defects.
Note: Critical defects are listed within product type classification. Critical defects are anythingwhich can harm the user of the product. The following are some examples of criticaldefects but are not limited to this list:
1) Loose components, i.e. buttons, snaps, stones or other miscellaneous parts;2) Sharp edges, i.e. broken needles, staples, snaps, rivets, wire and pins;3) Drawstrings at head or neck for baby or kids products; and4) Threads or trim which are excessively long or loose which could present a
choking hazard to a baby or child if they become entangled.
Any critical defect found during an audit fails that audit and requires the factory tore-inspect 100% of the product. Once all critical defects are removed, the ordermust be audited by a Gap Inc. auditor or their designated representative.
Defects Woven and Knit
Dresses/Jumpsuits
Coats/Jackets
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major Major 16.Mismatch Pockets,4-Way
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Plaid Match Over 1/16" Major -
3.Shaded Parts Major Major 17.Uneven Collar Points
4.Obvious Foreign or Color Over 1/8" Major -
Yarn Major Major 18.Collar Overlap When
5.Not Obvious Foreign or Buttoned Major -
Color Yarn Major Minor 19.Incorrrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
6.Poor Matching of Color or 20.Buttonholes Nonreplaceable,
Print Patterns Major Major Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches
7.Texture Change Major Major 21.Incorrect Button Major Major
8.Bleach Spot Not as Specified Major Major 22.Missing Button Major Major
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 23.Button Offline on Top Center
1/8" Tolerance Major -
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 24.Button, 2-Eye Sewn in
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 4-Hole or Upside Down Major Major
1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/4" 25.Sewn in Pleats Major Major
Clearly Contrasted Dye Smear Major Major 26.Uneven Pleating Shirring
2.Slubs and Misweaves Over 1/4" Major Major or Poor Sewn Pleat Major Major
3.Holes of any Size Repaired 27.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
or Not, Needle Cut, Tear Major Major up to 1/8" Major Minor
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major 28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
5.Barre, Bend Needle Slubs Up Over 1/8" Major Major
to Size of Loop Major Minor 29.Improper Interlining, Exces-
6.Improper Repair Major Minor sive Fullness of Parts Major Major
7.Any Pattern Errors Major Major 30.Interlining Twisted or
Garment Part Twisted Major Major
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) 31.Needle Chews up to 1
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Per Inch Major Major
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" Major Minor 32.Incorrect Thread or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major Major Accessories Major Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 33.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
Any Stitch Type Major Major Ticket Placement Major Major
4.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 34.Uneven Hip Pocket Placement
5.Stitching Margin Variation Over 1/8" Major -
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Minor 35.Lips or Crease on Front Pkt Major -
6.Stitching Margin Variation 36.Exposed White Pocket Bag
Over 1/8" Major Major up to 1/8" Major -
7.Any Exposed Stitch or Under 37.Malfunctioning, Wavy or
Part Major Major Incorrect Zipper Major Major
8.Blind Stitch Bite Too Deep - Major 38.Uneven Yoke Seam up to 1/8" Major -
9.Stitch Count Variation Over 39.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8" Major -
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major 40.Fell Seams Not Even at Join
10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major Major Crotch More Than Width
11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose of Stitch Major Major
Seam or Fraying Major Major 41.Uneven Pleating in Seam,
12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8" Major Major Shirring or Poorly Sewn Major Major
13.Incorrect Placket Width 42.Uneven or Incorrectly Placed
+ or -1/8" Major - Darts Over 1/8" Major Major
14.Incorrect Placket Width 43.High Low Band Over 1/8" Major -
Over 1/8" Major Major 44.Uneven Band Over 1/8" Major -
15.High-Low Pockets (Two 45.Uneven Belt Loop Placement
Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Over 1/8" Major -
Flaps + or - 1/8" Major -
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-2
Classification of Visual
Defects Woven and Knit
Dresses/Jumpsuits
Coats/Jackets
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
46.Slanting Belt Loops More 1.Attached Sewing Threads
Than 1/8" Out of Vertical up to 1/4" Major Minor
or Missing Major - 2.Attached Sewing Threads
47.Uneven Hem Over 1/8" Each Over 1/4" Major Major
Side - Major 3.Attached Threads Over 1/2"
48.Severe Puckering and Badly Inside of Garment Major Minor
Roped Hem Major Major 4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major
49.Incorrect Bartack Placement 5.Stain,Soil Under1/8" Major Minor
or Missing Bartack Major Major 6.Stain,Soil Over 1/8" Major Minor
50.Misplaced Buttonhole or 7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
Hook and Eye Over 1/8" Major Major Rubbed Spots Major Major
51.Misplaced Button Over 1/8" 8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark
or Missing Button Major Major Visible Major Major
52.Misplaced Rivet Over 1/8" 9.Component Parts Not
or Missing Rivet Major Major Securely Tacked Major Major
53.Crows Feet Major - 10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
54. Sharp Points/ Edges on Garments Major Major
Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical 11.Pile Direction Not as
Specified Major Major
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone) 12.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Ticket Placement Major Major
1.Permanent Crease Major Major 13.Attached Sewing Threads at
2.Poorly Pressed Major Minor Collar Area Over 1/8" Major -
3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, 14.Improper Tidy or Fraying
Pressure Marks Major Major of Band Finish Major -
15.Incorrect Folding Major Major
16.Twisted Legs Over 1" Major Major
***babyGap / GapKids***
17. Loose Components Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
18. Stones in Garments Critical Critical
***babyGap / GapKids***
19. Drawstrings at Head & Neck Critical Critical
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-3
Appendix II AII-4Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicWoven & Knits
Dresses / Jumpsuits / Coats / Jumpers
Appendix II AII-5Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicWoven & Knits
Dresses / Jumpsuits / Coats / Jumpers
Classification of VisualDefects KnitTops
and Activewear
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 18.Collar Overlap
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major 19.Uneven Hip Pkt Placement
3.Shaded Parts Major Major Over 1/8" Major -
4.Obvious Foreign or Color 20.Lips or Creases on Pocket Major -
Yarn Major Major 21.Exposed White Pocket Bag Major -
5.Not Obvious Foreign or 22.Not Mitred Inner Fly Major -
Color Yarn Major Minor 23.Zippers, Incorrect Size/Color
6.Poor Matching of Color or Malfunctioning, Improper Set Major Major
Print Patterns Major Major 24.Uneven Yoke Seam Under 1/8" Minor -
7.Texture Change Major Major 25.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8" Major -
8.Shading Between Garments Major Major 26.Misaligned Fell Seams Over
Width of Topstitch Major Major
27.Uneven,Pleating, Shirring
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) or Poorly Sewn Seams Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 28.Pleats in Seam Major Major
1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/8" Major Minor 29.Mismatch Plaids or Stripes
2.Holes of Any Size Repaired up to 1/8" Major Major
or Not Major Major 30.Mismatch Plaids or Stripes
3.Standards Wt/Dz Exceeds Tolerance Majors - Over 1/8" Major Major
4.Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken 31.Uneven or Misplaced Darts
Stitch, End Down, Run Barr, Over 1/8" Major -
Bent Needle, Needle Line Major Major 32. High/Low Waistband > 1/8" Major -
5.Dye Discoloration Streaks 33. Uneven Waistband > 1/8" Major -
Blotches, Print Out of 34. Uneven Belt Loop Placement > 1/8" Major -
Register Major Major 35. Beltloop Missing or Slanting Major -
6.Bow or Bias Fabric Over 1" > 1/8"
Side to Side Major Major 36. Uneven Hem > 1/2" Each Side Major
37.Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major Major
C. Sewing (Defects by Zone) 38.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 39.Incorrect Button Major Major
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" Major Minor 40.Buttonholes Broken or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major Major Unrepairable Threads Major Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 41.Misplaced Button, Buttonhole
Any Stitch Type Major Major or Hook And Eye Over 1/8" Major Major
4.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 42.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two
5.Any Exposed Stitch or Under Holes or Upside Down Major Major
Part Major Major 43.Missing Button Major Major
6.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major 44.Missing or Misplaced Rivet
7.Stitching Margin Variation Over 1/8" Major Major
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Minor 45.Severe Puckering and Badly
8.Stitching Margin Over 1/8" Major Major Roped Hems Major Major
9.Stitchcount Variation Over 46.Improper Interlining, Excess-
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major ive Fullness of Parts Major Major
10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major Major 47.Interlining or Garment Part
11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose Twisted Major Major
Seam or Fraying Major Major 48.Crow Feet Major Major
12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8" Major Major 49.Needle Chews up to 1 Per Inch Major Minor
13.Incorrect Placket Width 50.Insecure Setting of
up to 1/8" Major Major Component Part Major Major
14.Incorrect Placket Width 51.Incorrect Thread or
Over 1/8" Major Major Accessories Major Major
15.High/Low Pkts of Pkt Flaps 52.Misaligned Inserts,Gussets
1/8" or More Major Major Over 1/4" Major Major
16.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way 53. Sharp Points/Edges on
Plaid Match Over 1/8" Major Major Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
17.Uneven Collar Points
Over 1/8" Major -
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-6
Classification of VisualDefects Knit Topsand Activewear
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Poor Press Major Minor2.Permanent Crease Major Major3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks, Pressure Marks Major Major
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Attached Threads up to 1/4" Major Minor2.Attached Threads Over 1/4" Major Major3.Attached Threads Over 1/2" Inside of Garment Major Major4.Sewn in Waste or Thread on Outside Major Major5.Stail,Soil Oil to 1/8" Major Major6.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rub Spots Over 1/4" Major Major7.Improper Tidy or Fraying of Band Finish Major -8.Visible Drill Hole or Notches or Pencil Mark Major Major9.Needle Chews or Feed-Dog Abrasion Frays Major Major10.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments Major Major11.Twisted Legs Over 1" Major Major12.Nap Up/Down, Shaded Parts Major Major13.Pile Direction Not as Specified Major Major14.Insecure Setting of Part Major Major15.Incorrect Trim Misplaced Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major16.Missing or Incorrect Labels Major -17.Incorrect Folding Major Major18.Asymetric Garment More Than 1" Major Major19.Uneven Elastification(Pant) Major Major***babyGap / GapKids***20. Loose Components Critical Critical***babyGap / GapKids***21. Stones in Garments Critical Critical***babyGap / GapKids***22. Drawstrings at Head & Neck Critical Critical
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-7
Appendix II AII-8Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicKnit Tops & Activewear
Appendix II AII-9Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicKnit Bottoms
Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Shirts
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 20.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major 21.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,
3.Shaded Parts Major Major Anchored Threads or Broken
4.Obvious Foreign or Color Stitches Major Major
Yarn Major Major 22.Incorrect Button Major Major
5.Poor Matching of Color or 23.Missing Button Major Major
Print Patterns Major Major 24.Buttons Out of Line on Top
6.Texture Change Major Major Center 1/8" Tolerance Major -
7.Bleach Spot Major Major 25.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two
8. Shading Between Garments Eyes or Upside Down Major Major
Major Major 26.Sewn in Pleats on Outside Major Major
27.Uneven Pleating Shirring
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) or Poor Sewn Pleat Major Minor
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes Up
1.Misweaves up to 1/4" Major Minor to 1/8" Major Minor
2.Misweaves Over 1/4" Major Major 29.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
3.Holes of any Size Repaired Over 1/8" Major Major
or Not Major Major 30.Improper Interlining ,Exces-
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major sive Fullness of Parts Major Minor
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs Major Minor 31.Interlining Twisted or
Garment Part Twisted Major Major
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) 32.Needle Chews up to 1
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Per Inch Major Minor
1.Run Off Stitches Up to 1/8" Major Minor 33.Incorrect Thread or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major Major Accessories Major Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 34.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
a Chain Stitch Major Major Ticket Placement Major Major
4.. More Than 1 Skip Stitch on a Lock Stitch Major Major 35. Sharp Points/Edges on
5. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
6.Stitching Margin Variation
Needle to Edge Over 1/16" Major Minor D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
7.Stitching Margin Over 1/16" Major Minor DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
8.Any Exposed Stitch or Under 1.Permanent Crease Major Major
Part Major Major 2.Pressing Not as Specified Major Major
9.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
10.Stitchcount Variation Over Pressure Marks Major Major
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major
11.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major
12.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying Major Major
13.Uneven Front Placket
>1/8" at Bottom Major -
14.Incorrect Placket Width
1/8" or Less Major Minor
15.Incorrect Placket Width
Over 1/8" Major Major
16.Uneven High-Low Pockets(2
Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Flaps
More Than 1/4" in Relation
to Each Other Major Major
17.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way
Plaid Match Over 1/8" Major -
18.Uneven Collar Points
Over 1/8" Major -
19.Collar Overlap When
Buttoned Major -
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-10
Classification ofVisual DefectsWoven Shirts
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4" Minor Minor2.Attached Sewing Threads Over 1/4" Major Major3.Attached Threads Over 1/2" Inside Garment Major Minor4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8" Major Minor6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8" Major Major7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots Major Major8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible Major Major9.Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Major Major10.Component Parts Not Securely Tacked Major Major11.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments Major Major12.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major***babyGap / GapKids***13. Loose Components Critical Critical***babyGap / GapKids***14. Stones in Garments Critical Critical***babyGap / GapKids***15. Drawstrings at Head & Neck Critical Critical
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-11
Appendix II AII-12Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicWoven Shirts
Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Shirts
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Bleach Streaks Major Major 21.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,
2.Dirt Spots Major Major Anchored Threads or Broken
3.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Stitches Major Major
4.Shaded Parts Major Major 22.Incorrect Button Major Major
5.Poor Matching of Color or 23.Missing Button Major Major
Print Patterns Major Major 24.Buttons Out of Line on Top
6.Texture Change Major Major Center 1/8" Tolerance Major -
7.Bleach Spot Major Major 25.Four Hole Button Sewn in Two
8.Stone Bruises Major Minor Eyes or Upside Down Major Major
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 26.Sewn in Pleats on Outside Major Major
27.Uneven Pleating Shirring
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) or Poorly Sewn Pleat Major Minor
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 28.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes up
1.Misweaves up to 1/4" Major Minor to 1/8" Major Minor
2.Misweaves Over 1/4" Major Major 29.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired Over 1/8" Major Major
or Not Major Major 30.Improper Interlining, Exces-
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major sive Fullness of Parts Major Minor
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs Major Minor 31.Interlining Twisted or
Garment Part Twisted Major Major
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) 32.Needle Chews up to 1
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Per Inch Major Minor
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" Major Minor 33.Incorrect Thread or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Major Major Accessories Major Major
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 34.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
a Chain Stitch Major Major Ticket Placement Major Major
4.More Than One Skip Stitch on 35. Sharp Points/Edges on
a Lock Stitch Major Major Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
5. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major
6. Stitching Margin Variation Needle D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
to Edge > 1/16" Major Minor DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
7.Stitching Margin Over 1/16" Major Minor 1.Permanent Crease Major Major
8.Any Exposed Stitch or Under 2.Pressing Not as Specified Major Major
Part Major Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
9.Blindstitch Bite Too Deep - Major Pressure Marks Major Major
10.Stitch Count Variation Over
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major
11.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major
12.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying Major Major
13.Uneven Front Placket
>1/8" at Bottom Major -
14.Incorrect Placket Width
1/8" or Less Major Minor
15.Incorrect Placket Width
Over 1/8" Major Major
16.Uneven High-Low Pockets(2
Pocket Shirt) or Pocket Flaps
More Than 1/4" in Relation
to Each Other Major Major
17.Mismatch Pockets, 4-Way
Plaid Match Over 1/8" Major -
18.Uneven Collar Points
Over 1/8" Major -
19.Collar Overlap When
Buttoned Major -
20.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-13
Classification ofVisual DefectsDenim Shirts
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4" Minor Minor2.Attached Sewing Threads Over 1/4" Major Major3.Attached Threads Over 1/2" Inside Garment Major Minor4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8" Major Minor6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8" Major Major7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots Major Major8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visable Major Major9.Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Major Major10.Component Parts Not Securely Tacked Major Major11.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments Major Major12.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced Label,Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major***babyGap / GapKids***13. Loose Components Critical Critical***babyGap / GapKids***14. Stones in Garments Critical Critical
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-14
Appendix II AII-15Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicDenim Shirts
Classification Of
Visual Defects
Sweaters
A. Appearance and Color (Defects by Zone) D. Pressing (Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Unevenq Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 1.Permanent Crease Major Major
2.Dye Misprint, Dye Smear Major Major 2.Poorly Pressed or
3.Shaded Parts Major Major Excessively Creased Major Minor
4.Poor Match of Color Major Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
5.Light Soil, Foreign Yarn, Pressure Marks Major Major
Visible Oil, Stains Major Major
6.Texture Changed Major Major E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
7.Obvious Foreign or Colored DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
Yarn Major Major 1.Attached Linking Threads
8.Not Obvious Foreign or Over 1/4" Major Major
Colored Yarn Major Minor 2.Attached Threads Over 2"
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major Inside of Garment Major -
3.Knot Yarn Ends up to 1/4" Major Minor
B. Knitting Components (Defects by Zone) 4.Knot Yarn Ends Over 1/4" Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 5.Pull Loop Snags Major Major
1.Slubs and Misweaves Major Major 6.Stain Soil Under 1/8" Major Minor
2.Slubs Larger Than Loop 7.Stain Soil Over 1/8" Major Major
3GG,5GG,7GG-up Major Major 8.Ring From Cleaning Gun or
3.Barre, Bent Needle Slubs up Rubbed Spots Major Major
To Size Of Loop Major Minor 9.Component Parts Not
4.Hole Dropped Stitch Not Securely Tacked Major Major
Repaired Major Major 10.Mildew or Heavily Odored
5.Improper Sightly Repair Major Minor Garments Major Major
6.Any Pattern Error Major Major 11.Pattern and Garment
7.Biased Pattern 1/2" Side Assementric Not More Than 1" Major Major
to Side Major Major 12.Shape Not as Specified Major Major
13.Incorrect Trim, Misplaced
C. Linking/Sewing - Seams + Stitches (Defects by Zone) Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B ***babyGap / GapKids***
1.One or More Skip Stitch or 14. Loose Components Critical Critical
Any Skip in a Chain Stitch Major Major ***babyGap / GapKids***
2.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 15. Stones in Garments Critical Critical
3.Tight Stitch, Thread Tension Major Major ***babyGap / GapKids***
4.Raw Edge, Open Seam Broken 16. Drawstrings at Head & Neck Critical Critical
Stitch, Loose Stitch Major Major
5.Incorrect Thread Color Major Major
6.Needle Perforation Major Major
7.Misaligned Inserts, Pockets,
Gussets, Over 1/8" Major Major
8.Loose Elastic Tension At
Bottom - Major
9.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
10.Buttonhols With Broken
Stitches Major Major
11.Misplaced Button Over 1/4" Major Major
12.Missing Button Major Major
13.Mismatch Stripes Sideseam Up
To 1/4" (Plackets Over 1/4") Major Major
14.Standard Weight Per Garment
Out of Tolerance Major -
15. Sharp Points/Edges on
Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-16
Appendix II AII-17Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicSweaters
Classification of
Visual Defects
Woven Bottoms
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 22.Misaligned Fell Seams Over
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Width of Topstitch Major Major
3.Shaded Parts Major Major 23.Uneven, Pleating, Shirring or
4.Foreign or Color Yarn < Poorly Sewn Seams Major Major
or = 1/2" Minor - 24.Sewn in Pleat Outside Major Major
5.Foreign or Color Yarn > 1/2" Major Minor 25.Sewn in Pleat Inside
6.Poor Matching of Color or < or = 1/4" Minor -
Print Patterns Major Major 26.Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4" Major -
7.Texture Change Major Major 27.Uneven or Misplaced Darts
8.Bleach Spot Major Major Over 1/8" Major Major
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 28.Waistband Width at Ends
(Front or Back) + or - 1/4" Major -
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 29.Alignment of Waistband
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B Over 1/8" Major -
1.Misweaves > 1/4" Major Major 30.Uneven Belt Loop Placement
2.Misweaves < OR = 1/4" Minor Minor Over 1/4" Major -
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired 31.Belt Loop Missing or Slanting
or Not Major Major More Than 1/8" Major -
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major 32.Uneven Hem Width > + or - 1/8"
5.Non-Characteristics Slubs Major Major Each Side - Major
33.Uneven Hem Front to Back
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) >1/4" - Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 34.Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major Major
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" 35.Buttonholes With Broken or
on Outside Minor Minor Unrepairable Threads Major Major
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" 36.Misplaced Button, Buttonhole
on Outside Major Major or Hook and Eye Over 1/8" Major Major
3. Run Off Stitches < or = 1/4" 37.Missing Button or Rivet Major Major
On Inside Minor Minor 38.Severe Puckering and Badly
4. Run Off Stitches > 1/4" Roped Hems Major Major
on Inside Major Major 39.Improper Interlining,
5. One or More Skip Stitch Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major
on a Chain Stitch Major Major 40.Interlining or Garment
6.More Than One Skip Stitch Part Twisted Major Major
on a Lock Stitch Major Major 41.Crows Feet Major Major
7.One Skip Stitch on Lockstitch Minor Minor 42. Sharp Points/Edges on
8.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
9.Stitching Margin Variation D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Major DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
10.Stitching Margin Over 1/8" Major Major 1.Poor Press Major Minor
11.Stitchcount Variation Over 2.Permanent Crease Major Major
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
12.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major Major Pressure Marks Major Major
13.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam or Fraying Major Major E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
14.High/Low Hip Pkt Plmt > DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
+ or - 1/8" Major Major 1.One or More Sewing Threads
15.Lips or Creases on Frt Pocket Major - < or = 1/4" on Outside Minor Minor
16.Exposed White Pocket Bag Major - 2.One or More Sewing Threads
17.Wavy or Malfunction Zipper Major Major > 1/4" on Outside Major Major
18.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled 3.Thread Cluster on Inside Major Major
Back Seam) < or = 1/4" Minor - 4.More Than Four Threads > 1/2"
19.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled Back or One or More Threads > 1"
Seam) > 1/4" Major - on Inside Major Major
20.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety 5.One or More Attached Threads
Stitch Back Seam) < or = 1/8" Minor - At Bottom of Fly > 1/2" on Inside Major -
21.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety 6.Sewn in Waste or Thread Major Major
Stitch Back Seam) > 1/8" Major - 7.Stain, Soil, Oil to 1/8" Major Minor
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-18
Classification ofVisual Defects
Woven Bottoms
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone) ContinuedDEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
8.Stain, Soil, Oil Over 1/8" Major Major9.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rub Spots Major Major10.Improper Tidy or Fraying of Band or End Finish Major Major11.Visible Drill Hole or Notches Major Major12.Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Frays Major Major13.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments Major Major14.Twisted Legs Over 1" Major Major15.Insecure Setting of Part Major Major16.Incorrect Thread or Acc. Major Major17.Incorrect Trim Misplaced Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major18.Missing or Incorrect Labels Major -19.Incorrect Folding Major Minor20.Uneven Elastification Major Major***babyGap / GapKids***21. Loose Components Critical Critical***babyGap / GapKids***22. Stones in Garments Critical Critical***babyGap / GapKids***23. Drawstrings Critical Critical
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-19
Appendix II AII-20Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicWoven Bottoms
Appendix II AII-21Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicWoven Bottoms
Note: On pants and skirts 23” long and under there is no zone B on front.(Measure from below the waist)
Classification of
Visual Defects
Denim Bottoms
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot Major Major 21.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Stitch Back Seam) > 1/8" Major -
3.Shaded Parts Major Major 22.Misaligned Fell Seams Over
4.Foreign or Color Yarn < Width of Topstitch Major Major
or = 1/2" Minor - 23.Uneven, Pleating, Shirring or
5.Foreign or Color Yarn > 1/2" Major Minor Poorly Sewn Seams Major Major
6.Poor Matching of Color or 24.Sewn in Pleat Outside Major Major
Print Patterns Major Major 25.Sewn in Pleat Inside
7.Texture Change Major Major < or = 1/4" Minor -
8.Bleach Spot Major Major 26.Sewn in Pleat Inside > 1/4" Major -
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 27.Uneven or Misplaced Darts
Over 1/8" Major Major
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 28.Waistband Width at Ends
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B (Front or Back) + or - 1/4" Major -
1.Misweaves> 1/4" Major Major 29.Alignment of Waistband Over 1/8" Major -
2.Misweaves < or = 1/4" Minor Minor 30.Uneven Belt Loop Placement
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired Over 1/4" Major -
or Not Major Major 31.Belt Loop Missing or Slanting
4.Fabric Not as Specified Major Major More Than 1/8" Major -
5.Non-Characteristic Slubs Major Major 32.Uneven Hem Width > + or - 1/8"
Each Side - Major
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) 33.Uneven Hem Front to Back
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B >1/4" - Major
1.Run Off Stitches up to 1/8" 34.Incorrect or Missing Bartack Major Major
on Outside Minor Minor 35.Buttonholes With Broken or
2.Run Off Stitches Over 1/8" Unrepairable Threads Major Major
on Outside Major Major 36.Misplaced Button,Buttonhole
3.Run Off Stitches < or = 1/4" or Hook and Eye Over 1/8" Major Major
on Inside Minor Minor 37.Missing Button or Rivet Major Major
4.Run Off Stitches > 1/4" 38.Severe Puckering and Badly
on Inside Major Major Roped Hems Major Major
5.One or More Skip Stitch on 39.Improper Interlining,
a Chain Stitch Major Major Excessive Fullness of Parts Major Major
6.More Than One Skip Stitch 40.Interlining or Garment
on a Lockstitch Major Major Part Twisted Major Major
7.One Skip Stitch on Lockstitch Minor Minor 41.Crows Feet Major Major
8.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 42. Sharp Points/Edges on
9.Stitching Margin Variation Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Major
10.Stitching Margin Over 1/8" Major Major D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
11.Stitchcount Variation Over DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major 1.Poor Press Major Minor
12.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major Major 2.Permanent Crease Major Major
13.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
Seam or Fraying Major Major Pressure Marks Major Major
14.High/Low Hip Pkt Plmt >
+ or - 1/8" Major Major E.Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)
15.Lips or Creases on Frt Pocket Major - DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
16.Exposed White Pocket Bag Major - 1.One or More Sewing Threads
17.Wavy or Malfunction Zipper Major Major < or = 1/4" on Outside Minor Minor
18.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled 2.One or More Sewing Threads
Back Seam) < or = 1/4" Minor - > 1/4" on Outside Major Major
19.Uneven Yoke Seam (Felled Back 3.Thread Cluster on Inside Major Major
Seam) > 1/4" Major - 4.More Than Four Threads> 1/2"
20.Uneven Yoke Seam (Safety or One or More Threads > 1"
Stitch Back Seam) < or = 1/8" Minor - on Inside Major Major
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-22
Classification ofVisual Defects
Denim Bottoms
E. Cleanliness (Defects by Zone)DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
5.One or More Attached Theads At Bottom of Fly > 1/2" on Inside Major -6.Sewn in Waste or Thread Major Major7.Stain, Soil, Oil to 1/8" Major Major8.Stain, Soil, Oil Over 1/8" Major Major9.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rub Spots Major Major10.Improper Tidy or Fraying of Band or End Finish Major Major11.Visible Drill Hole or Notches Major Major12.Needle Chews or Feed Dog Abrasion Frays Major Major13.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garments Major Major14.Twisted Legs Over 1" Major Major15.Insecure Setting of Part Major Major16.Incorrect Thread or Acc. Major Major17.Incorrect Trim Misplaced Label, Ticket or Wrong Ticket Major Major18.Missing or Incorrect Labels Major -19.Incorrect Folding Major Major20.Uneven Elastification Major Major***babyGap / GapKids***21. Loose Components Critical Critical***babyGap / GapKids***22. Stones in Garments Critical Critical***babyGap / GapKids***23. Drawstrings Critical Critical
Appendix IIQuality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
A-23
Appendix II AII-24Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicDenim Bottoms
Note: On pants and skirts 23” long and under there is no zone B on front.(Measure from below the waist)
Appendix II AII-25Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicDenim Bottoms
Note: On pants and skirts 23” long and under there is no zone B on front.(Measure from below the waist)
Classification of
Visual Defects
Blazers
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major Major 24.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
2.Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Over 1/8" Major Major
3.Shaded Parts Major Major 25.Improper Interfacing/Lining, Exces-
4.Obvious Foreign or Color sive Fullness of Parts Major Major
Yarn Major Major 26.Lining Twisted or
5.Not Obvious Foreign or Garment Part Twisted Major Major
Color Yarn Major Minor 27.Any Needle Chews Major Minor
6.Poor Matching of Color or 28. Incorrect Thread or
Print Patterns Major Major Accessories Major Major
7.Texture Change Major Major 29.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or
8.Bleach Spot Not as Specified Major Major Ticket Placement Major Major
9. Shading Between Garments Major Major 30.Mishaped Pocket Welt Major -
31.Uneven Yoke Seam up to 1/8" Major -
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 32.Uneven Yoke Seam Over 1/8" Major -
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 33.Uneven Pleating in Seam,
1.Slubs and Misweaves up to 1/4" Shirring or Poorly Sewn Major Major
Clearly Contrasted Dye Smear Major Major 34.Uneven or Incorrectly Placed
2.Slubs and Misweaves Over 1/4" Major Major Darts Over 1/8" Major Major
3.Holes of Any Size Repaired 35.Uneven Hem/Bottom of Blazer
or Not, Needle Cut, Tear Major Major Over 1/8" Each Side - Major
4.Fabric/Lining Not as Specified Major Major 36.Severe Puckering and Badly
5.Barre, Bend Needle Slubs up Roped Hem Major Major
to Size of Loop Major Minor 37.Incorrect Tack Placement
6.Improper Repair Major Minor or Missing Bartack Major Major
7.Any Pattern Errors Major Major 38.Misplaced Buttonhole Over 1/2" Major Major
39.Misplaced Button Over 1/8"
C. Sewing (Seams and Stitches)(Defects by Zone) or Missing Button Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 40.Crows Feet Major -
1.Run Off Stitches on Inside up to 1/8" Major Minor 41. Sharp Points/ Edges on
2.Run Off Stitches on Inside Over 1/8" Major Major Hardware or Broken Needles Critical Critical
3.One or More Skip Stitch on 42. Twisted Sleeve Major -
Any Stitch Type Major Major 43. Uneven Back/Side Vents - Major
4.Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major 44. Twisted/Misaligned Lining Major Major
5.Stitching Margin Variation 45. Improperly Attached Buttons Major -
Needle to Edge Over 1/8" Major Minor 46. Resew on Lapel Major -
6.Stitching Margin Variation 47. Exposed Basting Stitch Major Major
Over 1/16" Major Major 48. Improper Lapel Placement Major -
7.Any Exposed Stitch, Under 49. Lapel Width Side to Side
Part or Lining Major Major Variance> 1/8" Major -
8.Blind Stitch Bite Too Deep - Major
9.Stitch Count Variation Over
+2 or -1 Per Inch Major Major D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
10.Tight Stitch Thread Tension Major Major DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
11.Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose 1.Permanent Crease Not to Spec Major Major
Seam or Fraying Major Major 2.Poorly Pressed Major Minor
12.Misaligned Front/Back Over 1/8" Major Major 3.Burn Marks, Scorch Marks,
13.High-Low Pockets or Pocket Pressure Marks Major Major
Flaps> 1/4" Major - 4. Improper Break of Lapel Major -
14.Mismatch Pockets,4-Way 5. Excessive Wrinkle in V Zone Major -
Plaid Match Over 1/16" Major -
15.Mishaped Lapel Point Major -
16.Incorrect Size Buttonhole Major Major
17.Buttonholes Nonrepairable,
Anchored Threads or Broken Stitches Major Major
18.Incorrect Button Major Major
19.Missing Button Major Major
20.Button, 2-Eye Sewn in
4-Hole or Upside Down Major Major
21.Sewn in Pleats Major Major
22.Uneven Pleating Shirring
or Poorly Sewn Pleat Major Major
23.Mismatch Plaids/Stripes
up to 1/8" Major Minor
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-26
Classification ofVisual Defects
Blazers
E. Cleanliness (Defect by Zone)DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1.Attached Sewing Threads up to 1/4" Major Minor2.Attached Sewing Threads Over 1/4" Major Major3.Attached Threads Over 1/2" Inside of Gsrment Major Major4.Sewn-In Waste or Thread Major Major5.Stain, Soil Under 1/8" Major Minor6.Stain, Soil Over 1/8" Major Major7.Ring From Cleaning Gun or Rubbed Spots Major Major8.Drill Hole or Pencil Mark Visible Major Major9.Compoment Parts Not Securely Tacked Major Major10.Mildew or Heavily Odored Garmentsq Major Major11.Pile Direction Not as Specified Major Major12.Incorrect Trim, Ticket or Ticket Placement Major Major13.Attached Sewing Threads at Collar Area Over 1/8" Major -14.Incorrect Folding Major Major***babyGap / GapKids***15. Loose Components Critical Critical***babyGap / GapKids***16. Stones in Garments Critical Critical
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-27
Appendix II AII-28Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicBlazers
Classification of
Visual Defects
Bras
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. SewingCont. (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major Major 24. Misaligned Trim- Bow, Applique,
2. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major Major Print, Strap, Hook & Eye, Snap, Label,
3. Shaded Parts Major Major Panty Lace, Elastic Binding, Piping Major Major
4. Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn Major Major 25. Incorrect Bartack- Placement,
5. Not Obvious Foreign or Spacing, Stitch Count Major Major
Color Yarn Major Minor 26. Severe Puckering/Twisting/
6. Poor Matching of Color Curling Major Major
or Print Patterns Major Major 27. Missing Trim Major Major
7. Texture Change Major Major 28. Misshaped Parts- Such as
8. Shading Between Garments Major Major "Rounding" Cups Major -
9. Assymentrical Cup Depth > 1/4" Major 0 29. Protruding Underwire-
10. Incorrect Color of Component, Out of Channel Critical -
Thread, Trim Major Major 30. Sharp Points or Jagged Edges
11. Trim/Thread Not as Specified Major Major on Trim Critical -
31. Component Parts Not Securely
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) Tacked Major Major
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 32. Insecure Setting of Part Major Major
1. Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not Major Major 33. Top of Cups Assymetrical > 1/8" Major -
2. Fabric Not as Specified Major Major 34. Straps Assymetrical > 1/4" Major -
3. Slubs and Misweaves</= 1/8" Major Minor 35. Bottom Band Assymetrical > 1/4" Major -
4. Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch, 36. Underarm Elastic Assymetrical > 1/4" Major -
End Down, Run Barr, Bent Needle, 37. Center Front Placement of Bra
Needle Line, Barre Major Major Assymetrical to Cups> 1/16" Major -
5. Dye Discoloration, Streaks, 38. Improper Repair Major Major
Blotches, Print Out of Register Major Major 39. Underwire Play > 1/4" & >1/4"
6. Bow or Bias Fabric Major Major Between Cups Major -
7. Any Print/Repeat Pattern Errors Major Major 40. Broken Needle Point Within Garment Critical Critical
8. Elastic Streach Not as Specified Major Major
D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
C. Sewing (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone) DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 1. Permanent Crease Not as Specified Major Major
1. Run Off Stitches up to 1/16" Major Minor 2. Poorly Pressed Major Minor
2. Run Off Stitches > 1/16" Major Major 3. Badly Wrinkled/Curled Major Major
3. 1 or More Broken/Skip/Loose 4. Burn/Scorch/Pressure Marks Major Major
Stitches Any Type Major Major
4. Incorrect Stitch Type Major Major E. CLEANLINESS/FINISHING (DEFECT BY ZONE)
5. Stitching Margin Variation DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
Needle to Edge of 1/16" Major Minor 1. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS </= 1/4" MAJOR MINOR
6. Stitching Margin > 1/16" Major Major 2. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS > 1/4" MAJOR MAJOR
7. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major Major 3. ATTACHED INSIDE SEWING TRHEADS > 1/2" MAJOR MAJOR
8. Hem Too Deep Major Major 4. SEWN-IN WASTE OR THREADS MAJOR MAJOR
9. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-1 5. STAIN OR SOIL </= 1/8" MAJOR MINOR
Lock Stitch or Chain Stitch Major Major 6. STAIN OR SOIL > 1/8" MAJOR MAJOR
10. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-2 7. RING FROM CLEANING GUM MAJOR
Zig Zag Stitch Major Major OR RUBBED SPOTS MAJOR
11. Stitch Count Variation >+3/-3 8. DRILL HOLE, PENCIL OR OTHER MARK
3 Step Zig Zag Stitch Major Major VISIBLE NOTCHES MAJOR MAJOR
12. Improper Stitch Tension, Needle 9. MILDEW OR HEAVILY ODORED MAJOR N/A
Looper or Bobbin Major Major 10. INCORRECT TICKET, TAG,
13. Cross Over Stitches Major Major TRIM OR PLACEMENT MAJOR MAJOR
14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose 11. INCORRECT FOLDING MAJOR N/A
Seam, Fraying Major Major 12. MISSING/INCORRECT LABEL(S) MAJOR N/A
15. Misaligned Parts Major Major 13. WRONG COUNTRY OF ORIGIN ON LABEL MAJOR N/A
16. Uneven Shirring/Poorly Sewn 14. INCORRECT PACKING/PACKAGING MAJOR N/A
Pleat or Dart Major Major 15. THREAD KNOTS MAJOR N/A
17. Sewn in Pleats Major Major 16. EXCESS SEWING THREADS BETWEEN PLYS MAJOR MAJOR
18. Mismatch Stripes/Plaids > 1/8" Major Major
19. Improper Interlining Major Major
20. Excessive Fullness in Parts Major Major
21. Twisting to Component Parts Major Major
22. Twisted Straps Major -
23. Needle Chews/Feed Dog Abrasion MAJOR MAJOR
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-29
Appendix II AII-30Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicBras & Bodysuits
Note: Use both bra & underwear standards when inspecting bodysuits.
Appendix II AII-31Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicBras & Bodysuits
Note: Use both bra & underwear standards when inspecting bodysuits.
Classification of
Visual Defects
Underwear
A. Appearance and Color (Defect by Zone) C. SewingCont. (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1. Uneven Dye, Dirt Spot, Streak Major N/A 23. Misaligned Trim- Bow, Applique,
2. Dye Misprints, Dye Smear Major N/A Print, Strap, Hook & Eye, Snap, Label,
3. Shaded Parts Major N/A Panty Lace, Elastic Binding, Piping Major N/A
4. Obvious Foreign or Color Yarn Major N/A 24. Incorrect Bartack- Placement,
5. Not Obvious Foreign or Spacing, Stitch Count Major N/A
Color Yarn Major N/A 25. Severe Puckering/Twisting/
6. Poor Matching of Color Curling Major N/A
or Print Patterns Major N/A 26. Missing Trim Major N/A
7. Texture Change Major N/A 27. Misshaped Parts- Such as
8. Shading Between Garments Major N/A "Rounding" Cups Major N/A
9. Incorrect Color of Component, 28. Component Parts Not Securely
Thread, Trim Major N/A Tacked Major N/A
10. Trim/Thread Not as Specified Major N/A 29. Insecure Setting of Part Major N/A
30. Legs Assymetrical > 1/4" or Uneven Elastification Major N/A
B. Fabric (Defect by Zone) 31. Sides of pants Assymetrical > 1/4" with Sides > 4" Major N/A
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 32. Sides of pants Assymetrical > 1/4" with Sides < 4" Major N/A
1. Holes of Any Size Repaired or Not Major N/A 33. Improper Repair Major N/A
2. Fabric Not as Specified Major N/A
3. Slubs and Misweaves</= 1/8" Major N/A
4. Drop Stitch, Mend, Broken Stitch, D. Pressing (Defect by Zone)
End Down, Run Barr, Bent Needle, DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
Needle Line, Barre Major N/A 1. Permanent Crease Major N/A
5. Dye Discoloration, Streaks, 2. Poorly Pressed Major N/A
Blotches, Print Out of Register Major N/A 3. Badly Wrinkled/Curled Major N/A
6. Bow or Bias Fabric Major N/A 4. Burn/Scorch/Pressure Marks Major N/A
7. Any Print/Repeat Pattern Errors Major N/A
8. Elastic Streach Not as Specified Major N/A E. CLEANLINESS/FINISHING (DEFECT BY ZONE)
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B
1. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS </= 1/4" MAJOR N/A
C. Sewing (Seams & Stitches) (Defect by Zone) 2. ATTACHED SEWING THREADS > 1/4" MAJOR N/A
DEFECT ZONE A ZONE B 3. ATTACHED INSIDE SEWING TRHEADS > 1/2" MAJOR N/A
1. Run Off Stitches up to 1/16" Major N/A 4. SEWN-IN WASTE OR THREADS MAJOR N/A
2. Run Off Stitches > 1/16" Major N/A 5. STAIN OR SOIL </= 1/8" MAJOR N/A
3. 1 or More Broken/Skip/Loose 6. STAIN OR SOIL > 1/8" MAJOR N/A
Stitches Any Type Major N/A 7. RING FROM CLEANING GUM MAJOR
4. Incorrect Stitch Type Major N/A OR RUBBED SPOTS N/A
5. Stitching Margin Variation 8. DRILL HOLE, PENCIL OR OTHER MARK
Needle to Edge of 1/16" Major N/A VISIBLE NOTCHES MAJOR N/A
6. Stitching Margin > 1/16" Major N/A 9. MILDEW OR HEAVILY ODORED MAJOR N/A
7. Any Exposed Stitch or Underpart Major N/A 10. INCORRECT TICKET, TAG,
8. Hem Too Deep Major N/A TRIM OR PLACEMENT MAJOR N/A
9. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-1 11. INCORRECT FOLDING MAJOR N/A
Lock Stitch or Chain Stitch Major N/A 12. MISSING/INCORRECT LABEL(S) MAJOR N/A
10. Stitch Count Variation >+2/-2 13. WRONG COUNTRY OF ORIGIN ON LABEL MAJOR N/A
Zig Zag Stitch Major N/A 14. INCORRECT PACKING/PACKAGING MAJOR N/A
11. Stitch Count Variation >+3/-3 15. THREAD KNOTS MAJOR N/A
3 Step Zig Zag Stitch Major N/A 16. EXCESS SEWING THREADS BETWEEN PLYS MAJOR N/A
12. Improper Stitch Tension, Needle
Looper or Bobbin Major N/A
13. Cross Over Stitches Major N/A
14. Raw Edge, Open Seam, Loose
Seam, Fraying Major N/A
15. Misaligned Parts Major N/A
16. Uneven Shirring/Poorly Sewn
Pleat or Dart Major N/A
17. Sewn in Pleats Major N/A
18. Mismatch Stripes/Plaids > 1/8" Major N/A
19. Improper Interlining Major N/A
20. Excessive Fullness in Parts Major N/A
21. Twisting to Component Parts Major N/A
22. Needle Chews/Feed Dog Abrasion Major N/A
Appendix II Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
AII-32
Appendix II AII-33Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicUnderwear
Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.
Appendix II AII-34Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicUnderwear
Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.
Appendix II AII-35Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicUnderwear
Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.
Appendix II AII-36Quality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap / GapKids / babyGapOld Navy
Banana RepublicUnderwear
Note: No Zone B for underwear / panties.
The EndQuality Assurance Manual, ©Gap Inc., February 2001
Gap Inc.Quality Assurance Manual
February, 2001