Transcript

http://annavirkpanna.com http://www.ravelry.com/designers/anna-nilsson IG: @AnnaVirkpanna FB: AnnaVirkpanna FB group: AnnaVirkpanna’s Hook Up

Copyright Anna Nilsson / AnnaVirkpanna 2018. Reproduction and publication of material and texts without permission from Anna Nilsson is not allowed.

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50 shades of Whirl Yarn: 1 skein of Scheepjes Whirl, color 780 Key Lime Pi Hook size: 3,5 mm Size: appr 72*72 cm after blocking

Good to know

• Instructions between *-* is repeated around if nothing else is told.

• Ch 3 as the first dc in the round, except if it’s part of a dc3tog, then ch 2.

• Each round end with a slst in first stitch if nothing else is told.

• Numbers within () at the end of a round tells the number of stitches on that round.

• Joining: Instructions in italics is to be crocheted on the opposite square.

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Copyright Anna Nilsson / AnnaVirkpanna 2018. Reproduction and publication of material and texts without permission from Anna Nilsson is not allowed.

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Abbreviations (US)

ch – chain chsp – chainspace st – stitch sk – skip sc – single crochet hdc – half double crochet dc – double crochet dcgr – group of dc’s slst – slipstitch prev – previous fpdc – front post double crochet bpdc – back post double crochet fpsc – front post single crochet dc3tog – double crochet 3 together (two variations in the pattern, either crochet over 3 stitches or in a chsp) dc2tog – double crochet 2 together pic - picot (chain 3, slst to first chain)

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http://annavirkpanna.com http://www.ravelry.com/designers/anna-nilsson IG: @AnnaVirkpanna FB: AnnaVirkpanna FB group: AnnaVirkpanna’s Hook Up

Copyright Anna Nilsson / AnnaVirkpanna 2018. Reproduction and publication of material and texts without permission from Anna Nilsson is not allowed.

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Pattern 50 shades of Whirl

First square 1. 12 dc in a magic circle. (12 dc) 2. 2 dc in each stitch around. (24 dc) 3. *dc3tog, ch 5*, repeat *-* around. (8 dcgr, 8 chsp) 4. Slst to chsp, *(dc3tog, ch 4, dc3tog) in chsp (=corner), ch 5, dc3tog in next chsp, ch 5*, repeat *-* around. (4 corners, 4 dcgr, 8 chsp) 5. Slst to chsp, *(dc3tog, ch 4, dc3tog) in chsp, ch 2, 4 dc in chsp, 1 fpdc around dc3tog from prev round, 4 dc in chsp, ch 2*, repeat *-* around. (4 corners, 8 chsp, 32 dc, 4fpdc) 6. Slst to chsp, *(dc3tog, ch 4, dc3tog) in chsp, ch 1, 2 dc in chsp, 4 bpdc, 1 fpdc around fpdc from prev round, 4 bpdc, 2 dc in chsp, ch 1*, rep *-* around. (4 corners, 8 chsp, 16 dc, 32 bpdc, 4 fpdc) 7. Slst to chsp, *(dc3tog, ch 4, dc3tog) in chsp, 1 dc in chsp, 6 bpdc, 1 fpdc around fpdc from prev round, 6 bpdc, 1 dc in chsp*, rep *-* around. (4 corners, 4 dc, 48 bpdc, 4 fpdc) 8. Slst to chsp, *(dc3tog, ch 4, dc3tog) in chsp, 1 dc in top of dc3tog from prev round, 1 dc between dc3tog and dc, 7 bpdc, 1 fpdc around fpdc from prev round, 7 bpdc, 1 dc between next dc and dc3tog from prev round, 1 dc in top of dc3 tog from prev round*, rep *-* around. (4 corners, 16 dc, 56 bpdc, 4 fpdc)

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Copyright Anna Nilsson / AnnaVirkpanna 2018. Reproduction and publication of material and texts without permission from Anna Nilsson is not allowed.

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Joining (see pictures below)

Square 2: follow the pattern for the first square until you have completed round 7. Crochet the first two sides of round 8. When you reach the corner after the second side, crochet like this:

(dc3tog, ch 2, 1 slst in the corner-chsp on the first square, ch 2, dc3 tog) in corner-chsp, 1 dc in top of dc3 tog from prev round, 1 dc between dc3tog and next dc, ch 1, 1 slst between dc3tog and dc in chsp, ch 1, 7 bpdc, 1 fpdc around fpdc from prev round, ch 1, 1 slst in fpdc, ch 1, 7 bpdc, 1 dc between dc and dc3tog, ch 1, 1 slst between dc3tog and dc in chsp, ch 1, 1 dc in top of dc3tog, (dc3tog, ch 2, 1 slst in corner-chsp, ch 2, dc3tog) in corner-chsp.

Continue with the regular pattern for the last side of square 2.

Do the same with the rest of the squares. Some squares are joined with more than one square. Just follow the pattern for joining on the sides that needs to be joined.

Square 5 is joined with three other squares. Square 3, 1 and 2. When you reach the corner where they all are joined, crochet like this:

(dc3tog, ch 2, 1 slst in corner-chsp on the nearest square, ch 1, 1 slst in next square corner-chsp, ch 1, 1 slst in corner-chsp on the last square, ch 2, dc3tog) in corner-chsp. Continue with the regular pattern.

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Copyright Anna Nilsson / AnnaVirkpanna 2018. Reproduction and publication of material and texts without permission from Anna Nilsson is not allowed.

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When all squares are joined I recommend you block your work, to make it easier to do the edge.

Edge

Begin in the corner of the first square.

1. (dc3tog, ch 3, dc3tog) in corner-chsp, *1 fpdc around dc3tog on the square, 9 bpdc, 1 fpdc around dc3tog on the square, 9 bpdc, 1 fpdc around dc3tog on the square, dc3tog in chsp, ch 1, dc3tog in next chsp*, rep *-* to the corner and then continue around. End with a slst in top of first dc3tog. 2. Slst to chsp, (dc3tog, ch 3, dc3tog) in corner-chsp, *1 fpdc around dc3tog, 10 bpdc, 1 fpdc around fpdc, 10 bpdc, 1 fpdc around dc3tog*, rep *-* to the corner and then continue around. End with a slst in top of first dc3tog. 3. Slst to chsp, (3 dc, pic, 3 dc) in corner-chsp, *1 sc in fpdc, ch 6, sk 4 st, 1 sc, ch 6, sk 4 st, 1 sc, pic, sk fpdc, 1 sc, ch 6, sk 4 st, 1 sc, ch 6, sk 4 st, 1 sc, pic, 1 sc*, rep *-* to the corner. On the last repeat on each side the pic and last sc is skipped. Continue around, end with a slst to first st.

Cut yarn and secure all ends. Block your work to open up the stitches.

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<3 Anna


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