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Beijing
BEIJING IS A CAPITAL OF EXTREMES, A CITY FILLED WITH BOTH MING DYNASTY MASTERPIECES AND MODERN ARCHITECTURAL MARVELS, WITH A PAST STEEPED IN RICH HISTORY AND A PRESENT THAT’S ALL ABOUT BIGGER AND BETTER.
It’s a striking contrast reflected in the
city’s plethora of sights, from the narrow
and winding hutong alleyways, ancient
Summer Palace and Forbidden City, to
the modern day soaring skyscrapers.
The juxtaposition of old and new is also
evident in the food, art, shopping and
nightlife, and though the Chinese have
long seen the city as the centre of the
universe, now the rest of the world has
finally turned its eye Beijing-ward.
The cult pocket city guides and mobile
apps for the busy, sophisticated traveler
www.luxecityguides.comCITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES
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• Weather: spring (Apr-May) is
dry but pleasant with occasional
sandstorms; summer (Jun-mid Sep)
is like a moist oven; autumn (mid
Sep-Nov) is delightful; your fridge
will be warmer in winter (Dec-Mar).
• Beijing Capital airport to town: 45
mins / ~RMB 100.
• Take only taxis with 京 B (Beijing)
plates, or better yet, hire a car
and driver, but don’t expect to get
anywhere fast, especially during
rush hour.
• Beijing street names can often seem
meaningless, however, jie means
street, lu and dao are road, dajie is
avenue, xiang is alley, and hutong is
an alley around traditional courtyard
houses, or a cluster of such houses.
Blah blah• Many kitchens close early, so don’t
arrive too late.
• Do expect plenty of spitting and
staring.
• Avoid the use of public toilets, but
do carry tissues in the unfortunate
event that you’re horribly caught
short.
• Expect variable service in hotels and
restaurants.
• Credit cards will often NOT do nicely,
except in hotels, larger restaurants
and stores; have back-up cash even
if it says they take credit.
• ATMs have low transaction limits,
cash up when you can.
• Intl country code is +86 then 10
for Beijing, which doesn’t have to
be dialed locally nor for mobiles
(nation-wide).
• Emergency numbers are: 119 for fire,
120 for ambulance and 110 for police.
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Belgian jeweller and interior designer
Jehanne has spent the past 20 years
in Beijing, where she lives and works
with her husband, international actor
and designer Liu Linian. Together, the
duo launched Liu+deBiolley, applying
their classic-eclectic aesthetic to their
work, which in addition to furniture and
jewellery design has included restorations
of Qing and Ming dynasty buildings as
well as the award-winning Duge Courtyard
boutique hotel.
LUXE INSIDER
Jehanne De Biolley JEWELLER AND INTERIOR DESIGNER
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1) WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE MUSEUM OR EXHIBIT IN BEIJING AND WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT IT?
The gigantic stone turtles in the yards
of the Confucius Temple situated
near Lama Temple are superb; I love
wandering around this less-visited site.
The grand pine trees inspire respect
and admiration – and one of them is
home to an owl!
2) WHERE DO YOU TAKE VISITORS WHEN THEY COME TO VISIT YOU AND WHY?
Climbing up the tiny narrow staircase of
the Drum Tower is worth the effort for
the view over the entire city to the 3rd
ring – on a good day you will see as far
as the CCTV Tower.
3) WHERE DO YOU GO FOR A PAMPER SESSION (MASSAGE OR SPA TREATMENT) IN BEIJING?
For a massage my favorite is Bodhi.
Located in the Sanlitun area in Eastern
Central Beijing, it is the right place to
go if you have anything from an hour
to an entire day! A foot massage is
where you should start, where you’ll
have your feet soaked in an herbal mix
before the massage. They also offer
traditional Chinese body massages
and other relaxing treatments.
www.bodhi.com.cn
4) WHERE WOULD YOU GO FOR A COCKTAIL AND WHAT WOULD YOU ORDER?
My all time favorite cocktail is the
“Passionate Rosemary”, a delicate
blend of Earl Grey infused gin and
passion fruit, at Temple Restaurant
in the heart of Old Beijing, a stone’s
throw from the Forbidden City. The
bartenders compose unique cocktails
and pay homage to the surroundings
with infusions of Chinese spices and
hand-cut ice. And the restaurant
itself, located in Ming Dynasty temple
compounds, has exquisite fusion
cuisine popular with the fashion and
business elite.
www.temple-restaurant.com
5) WHERE DO YOU RECOMMEND FRIENDS STAY WHEN THEY COME TO BEIJING?
If you’re in Beijing for a romantic stay,
your best choice will be the Duge
Courtyard boutique hotel, a tiny jewel
with only 6 designer-furnished rooms
located in the old part of town off
Nanluoguxiang. If you’re visiting for
business, the traditional Raffles off of
Tiananmen Square or the St. Regis in
the embassy area will not disappoint.
The Opposite House in Sanlitun is a
good option for those who prefer to
keep close to the city landmarks.
www.dugecourtyard.com
www.raffles.com/beijing
www.stregis.com/beijing
www.theoppositehouse.com
LUXE INSIDER
Jehanne De Biolley JEWELLER AND INTERIOR DESIGNER
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LUXE Loves
THE OPPOSITE HOUSE Hotel
Zen, minimalist designer stunner
furnished in a natural palette of white
and beige, with natural wood floors
and floor-to-ceiling windows. Add
spa-like bathrooms, oak tubs, indoor
pool and modern Asian Bei restaurant,
Mediterranean Sureno, and cool
contemporary Mesh bar, and it’s easy
to see why the hotel is so popular with
the international style set.
TRB
Dining
Set on the grounds of a beautiful
six-century-old Ming temple complex,
with former Maison Boulud general
manager Ignace Lecleir at the helm,
and decadent, modern European
fare on the menu, this fine dining
restaurant is the perfect choice
for an old-meets-new,
East-meets-West experience.
HAIDILAO Dining
This wildly popular chain has 64
locations all over China, and for good
reason – the scrumptious, Sichuan hot
pot is a national treasure, with its fiery
chili flavors and hand-pulled noodles
available 24/7. Go at an off peak hour
to avoid queues.
The Village / 11 Sanlitun Bei Lu /
Sanlitun / Chaoyang /
+86 10 6417 6688
www.theoppositehouse.coml
Songzhusi Temple / 23 Shatan Bei
Jie / Dongcheng / +86 10 8400 2232
/ lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat and
weekend brunch
www.temple-restaurant.com
2A Baijiazhuang Lu / Chaoyang
/+65 6595 2982 / + branches
www.haidilao.com
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LUXE Loves
THE PENINSULA SPA Spa
With signature holistic therapies
drawing from Ayurvedic, Oriental and
European philosophies, this serene
haven also has couples’ suites, gym
and pool access, and thermal suites
for steamy or cool hydro relaxation.
AMAN AT SUMMER PALACE
Hotel
Retreat like royalty to this historic
hotel, set in the cooking quarters
of Empress Cixi’s former summer
home on the city’s outskirts. The
lavish suites are housed in a series of
pavilions surrounding a courtyard, and
there’s a lush spa and pool too.
ULLENS CENTER FOR CONTEMPORARY ART Activities
This non-profit, contemporary art
space in China is spread over 26,000
sq ft formerly occupied by a factory
compound, and is now home to some
of the best curated exhibitions in
China, showcasing both established
and emerging, international and
domestic talents.
8 Goldfish Lane / Wangfujing /
Dongcheng / +86 10 6510 6090
www.peninsula.com
1 Gongmenqian Jie / Summer Palace /
Haidian / +86 10 5987 9999
www.aman.com4 Jiuxianqiao Lu / Dashanzi /
Chaoyang / +86 10 5780 0200
www.ucca.org.cn
NANLUOGUXIANG
Shopping
Thanks to gentrification, this former
dusty, drab hutong has transformed into
an alley of junky to hip boutiques, cafés
and bars. It may be a tad touristy, but
it’s really all about the atmosphere and
well worth a trip for unique souvenirs.
Start at the gate at Nanluoguxiang
south entrance at Ping’an DaDao.
APOTHECARY Bar
This dimly lit woody saloon serves
up artisanal potions made using
homemade liquors, bitters and salts
alongside a comfort American snack
menu. The cocktail list is almost as
long as the Great Wall, but you can’t go
wrong with their signature Bell Pepper
Tequila Sour.
BRAND NEW CHINA (BNC) Shopping
Opened by the daughter of Mao’s
English teacher and translator, this hip,
fashion-forward store stocks emerging
labels and indie designers from greater
China, and is a great place to familiarize
yourself with local names like Hi Panda,
NLGX and Fan Ran, or stock up on
unique pieces.
3/F / Nali Patio / 81 Sanlitun
Bei Lu / Chaoyang /
+86 10 5208 6040
NLG-09A / B/1 Sanlitun Village
North / 11 Sanlitun Bei Lu /
Chaoyang / +86 10 6416 9045
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LUXE LovesDUCK DE CHINE Dining
Nestled within the dining and
entertainment complex 1949 Hidden
City, Duck de Chine serves up the
city’s best Peking Duck in a high-
design, sleek and chic environment on
the grounds of a traditional siheyuan
courtyard. The mostly fowl-oriented
menu also features duck confit and
even duck tacos, or come between
11.30am and 2.30pm and you can try
the excellent dim sum.
LONG ISLAND SPA
Spa
Getting a foot reflexology treatment
is an experience true to Beijing, and
nowhere better than at this pristine,
low-lit Thai-inspired spa with its
simple and effective foot rubs. For the
ultimate foot pampering try the Thai
High Barrel Foot Spa incorporating
heat and herbal oils, or check out the
comprehensive Chinese Therapeutic
Treatment menu for full body and
facial rituals.
PAN JIA YUAN FLEA MARKET Shopping
Having a rummage in this giant weekend
flea market is great fun. You’ll find
everything here: pins, shoes, posters,
scrolls, snuff boxes, Mao-morabilia,
porcelain, stone, bronze, wood, antiques
and fauxtiques, but get there early, have
plenty of cash (no credit cards) and
remember to haggle hard!
1949 Hidden City / 98 Jinbao Jie /
Dongcheng / +86 10 6521 2221
B/F / Jiahui Center / 6 Jiqing Li /
Chaoyang / +86 10 6551 6112
www.longislandspa.com.cn
Panjiayuan Wiao / Chaoyang /
sunrise – 3pm Sat-Sun
HIAS GOURMET
Activities
Eat your way around town, whether
it’s breakfast at a Chinese farmers
market, a hutong tour, a night market
stroll or a tea tasting safari that suits
your fancy. There are also cooking
classes for regional and traditional
tastes, so you can take
the flavors home.
7 Xinsi Hutong / Dongcheng / +86
10 6400 9199 / bookings essential
www.hiasgourmet.com
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LUXE LoathesPOLLUTION
We’ve forgotten what a blue sky
looks like.
CARS
Monstrous traffic, and over 1,000 new
cars on the roads every day.
THE MURSE
Beijing man is obsessed with
his manbag.
BEIJING BELLY
Beijing man is also obsessed with his
summer crop top.
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Fab vs. Drab
GREAT WALL
Nothing ruins a humbling architectural
wonder moment more than hordes of
tourists and ‘extras’ dressed as Ming
Dynasty warriors, which is exactly what
you’ll find along the wall’s Badaling
stretch. So drive slightly further along to
the less crowded Mutianyu section (90
mins out of town), with an easy-access
cable car up and fun toboggan down.
GETTING AROUND
Navigating Beijing’s maze of back alleys
on your own is nigh on impossible, but an
organized China Culture Center tour will
get you up close and personal with hidden
hutongs, impressive historic homes, and
the eerie underground city.
www.chinaculturecenter.org
CUISINE
Beijing’s street food runs the gamut from
frightening to fabulous, so in order to get
your hands on the best of it you’d do well
to sign up for a Hutong Foodie Crawl with
local experts Beijing Food Walk.
www.beijingfoodwalk.com
INTERPRETER
Communicating can be somewhat
challenging in the land of a thousand
dialects, but a swift call to former
Newsweek Beijing interpreter Jimmy Yinn
will solve all that, and see that nothing is
lost in translation.
Jimmy Yinn / call +86 1330 129 1080
BESPOKE TAILORING
Why waste time shopping the ubiquitous
fashion labels that can be found
anywhere, when there are terrific bespoke
tailors at your fingertips, like Cao Senlin
for the authentic qipao experience, and
Dave’s for an all-in-one bespoke suit and
shirt combo.
Cao Senlin / 25 Shi Jia Hutong /
Dongcheng / +86 10 6526 4515 Dave’s
/ Shop 104 / The Kerry Centre Mall / 1
Guanghua Lu / Chaoyang /
+86 10 8529 9433
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Following centuries of imperial history,
the Chinese capital has undergone
lightning-speed development and jumped
in to join the modern-day business circuit
with both feet. Start in the heart of the
city’s financial district at modern oriental
nest The Ritz-Carlton, conveniently
wired to the nines so you can take your
first meeting over coffee and breakfast
before heading out to your morning
appointments. For the all-important client
lunch, your reserved table at Maison
Boulud awaits – set in a majestic manor
formerly home to the US Embassy, the
deco-inspired interiors as well as the
Michelin-starred French cuisine are sure
to impress. Step back to the office for
the afternoon, but steal away before
dinner for a trip to the tailors – Cao
LUXE ITINERARY
BusinessSenlin (see Drab vs Fab) is the go-to for
bespoke ladies qipaos by a tailor who’s
been hemming since 1938, Dave’s (see
Drab vs Fab) is a top-notch gent’s tailor
with all-in-one bespoke shirt and suit
combo, and in frigid winter, be sure to
ring Cashmere Duo for the finest fabrics
and custom designs you’re like to find
in this town. Stop off at The Peninsula
Spa (see LUXE Loves) for a relaxing rub
and a few minutes in the thermal room,
before suiting up for dinner with clients
or guests at Tiandi Yijia, situated on
the Eastern edge of the Forbidden City
and offering a menu of Chinese classics
alongside an extensive wine list. The
refined mansion, decorated in traditional
imperial style, also boasts a serene
courtyard and goldfish ponds, providing
a very welcome escape from the city’s
bustle. Top off the night with post-dinner
drinks at Glen, a business favorite for the
dapper, old-world atmosphere, tuxedoed
waiters, and immaculate tipples, before
making your way back to your suite at the
Ritz-Carlton, and take nightcaps at the
hotel’s Crystal Bar & Lounge.
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StyleOnce the shy Chinese wallflower, Beijing
is now in the midst of a full-swing
style renaissance, with a unique mix
of tradition and label-crazed fashion-
forward dress. If you’re in town on the
weekend and looking to explore the
city’s style scene, set your alarm for
sunrise and make your way to Pan Jia
Yuan Market (see LUXE Loves), where
you’ll find a hubbub of everything from
antiques to posters to pins, but it’s all
great fun and worth the dig for that
mantel-worthy piece. After your morning
spree, recharge for round two with coffee
and cakes at Café Zarah, then dart off
to spend the rest of the day at fashion
and entertainment hub Sanlitun, and
make stops at Nicolas Favard for custom-
designed or RTW jewels, Palma for unique
bags and threads, and Nisiss for locally
designed, covetable clothes. Carry your
bags now to nearby electric factory
turned dining hub 1949 Hidden City, and
enjoy late lunch at Duck de Chine (see
LUXE Loves), situated in a traditional
siheyuan courtyard and serving a duck-
focused menu, with the capital’s famed
Peking Duck alongside less traditional
offerings like duck confit and tacos. Next,
amble over to The Opposite House and
settle in at the Kocoon Spa Lounge, with
its top-to-toe pampering as well as yoga
and Reiki, in case you’re inclined to work
off your lunch. You’ll emerge pretty and
preened, but throw in a quick blowout
at next-door C de France if need be, and
then it’s cocktail hour at artisanal drink
den Apothecary (see LUXE Loves), but
after a signature Bell Pepper Tequila
Sour or two, you’re off to Sanlitun’s
sizzling Sichuan restaurant Transit for
palate-tingling seasonal cooking in a
dark and sultry atmosphere. Have a drink
in the fashionista-frequented lounge
afterwards, then move the party to cool,
contemporary Mesh bar before finally
zipping just up the lift to your Zen den at
The Opposite House (see LUXE Loves).
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CultureNot in Beijing for the skyscrapers? See
the heart and soul of the Chinese capital
by starting the day with a visit to the
city’s hidden hutongs and impressive
historic homes with cultural tours led by
China Culture Center (see LUXE Loves),
where itineraries also include local
culinary market tours and Caochangdi
Artist Village walks. After you’ve walked
the city like a local, eat like one at
Haidilao (see LUXE Loves), with its fiery
chili dip and hand-pulled noodles, but
go before lunch hour when the crowds
descend. If you’re in need of a cool-down
after that Sichuan spice, head to Brand
New China (BNC) (see LUXE Loves) for a
few quality hours spent getting to know
the local design names and perusing
indie labels from greater China – these
wares also make for a unique, one-off
gift for your pals back home. Continue
the shopping spree at happening hutong
Nanluoguxiang (see LUXE Loves), full of
hip boutiques, cafes and bars, and make
stops at Jian Ping for flowy, classical
Chinese blouses, Art Books Store for old
China revolutionary music and films, and
The Pottery Workshop for ceramics made
by artists in Jingdezhen, China’s pottery
capital. Later, give your feet a rest at the
historic, 60-seat Imperial Granary Peony
Pavilion with a classic Kunqu Opera, first
written and performed in 1598 but still
captivating local audiences today. Your
pre-booked table at Da Dong (see LUXE
Loves) awaits, so sit down and enjoy the
crispy, world-renowned Peking Duck at
this wildly popular restaurant, complete
with glass-walled kitchen for you to peek
in and watch the chefs at work. Follow
dinner with drinks at Contempio, situated
in a C.15th temple refurbished as a cosy
lounge tucked away in a hutong behind
the Drum and Bell towers, before retiring
to bed nearby at the chic 10-room hutong
hideaway The Orchid.
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LUXE ITINERARY
The Essentials
• Maison Boulud / Chi’en Men
23 / 23 Qianmen Dong Dajie /
Dongcheng / +86 10 6559 9200 /
11.30am-10.30pm daily
www.maisonboulud.com
• Cao Senlin / see LUXE Loves
• Dave’s / see LUXE Loves
• Cashmere Duo / Call Xiaoyan Hu on
+86 1352 011 4560 / no English
• The Peninsula Spa / see LUXE Loves
• Hermitage Amsterdam
(see LUXE Loves)
• Tiandi Yijia / 140 Nanchizi Dajie /
Dongcheng / +86 10 8511 5556 /
11am-9pm daily
www.tiandiyijia.com
• Glen / 203 Taiyue Suites / 16 Sanlitun
Nan Lu / Sanlitun / Chaoyang /
+86 10 6591 1191
• Ritz-Carlton / Financial St /
1 Jinchengfang Dong Jie / Xicheng /
+86 10 6601 6666
www.ritzcarlton.com
• Pan Jia Yuan Market / Panjiayuan Qiao
/ Chaoyang / sunrise-3pm
Sat-Sun
www.saunadeco.com
• Café Zarah / 42 Gulou Dong Dajie /
Dongcheng / +86 10 8403 9807 /
10am-midnight daily
www.cafezarah.com
• Nicolas Favard / 28 Sanlitun Bei Lu /
Chaoyang / +86 10 6413 0818
www.nicolasfavard.com
• Palma / Nali Patio / 81 Sanlitun Bei Lu
/ Chaoyang / +86 10 5208 6090
• Nisiss / NLG-0506 / B/1 Sanlitun
Village North / Chaoyang /
+86 10 6415 8351
www.nisiss.com
• Duck de Chine / 1949 Hidden City / 98
Jinbao Jie / Dongcheng /
+86 10 6521 2221
• Kocoon Spa Lounge / The Opposite
House / The Village / 11 Sanlitun Bei Lu
/ Sanlitun / Chaoyang / +86 10 6410
5016 / Apothecary /
see LUXE Loves
BUSINESS ITINERARY STYLISH ITINERARY
• Transit / N4-36 / Sanlitun Village
North / 11 Sanlitun Lu / Chaoyang /
+86 10 6417 9090
• Mesh / The Opposite House / The
Village / 11 Sanlitun Bei Lu / Sanlitun /
Chaoyang / +86 10 6417 6688
• The Opposite House / see LUXE Loves
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• China Culture Center /
see LUXE Loves
• Haidilao / see LUXE Loves
• Brand New China (BNC) /
see LUXE Loves
• Nanluoguxiang / see LUXE Loves
• Jian Ping / #110-2 Nanluoguxiang /
+86 10 6402 4779
CULTURE ITINERARY
• Arts Book Store / #98
Nanluoguxiang / +86 10 8402 4590
• The Pottery Workshop / #23
Nanluoguxiang / +86 10 6401 3799
www.potteryworkshop.org
• Peony Pavilion/ 22 Dongsishitiao /
The Imperial Granary / Nanxincang /
Chaoyang / +86 10 6401 0843
• Da Dong / see LUXE Loves
• Contempio / Doufuchi Hutong /
Jiugulo Dajie / Xicheng /
+86 10 6407 6778
• The Orchid / 65 Baochao Hutong /
Guloudong Jie / Dongcheng / +868
10 8404 4818
www.theorchidbeijing.com
LUXE ITINERARY
The Essentials
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Your LUXE notes