HAIR REMOVALChapter 22 – 12’
Introduction One of the fastest growing services Types
Lip/brow Chin Arms Legs Bikini – art form of its own Brazilian
Men Nape of neck Chest Back Most common forms in salons and spas
Men Fashion trend hairless
Legs, arms, chests Sports
Cycling, swimming, body building Legs and arms, occasionally entire body
Hirsuties
Hypertrichosis Growth of an unusual amount of hair on
body parts normally bearing only downy hair
Faces of women Backs of men
History of treatments Early Egyptian tombs
Abrasive materials Pumice stone – used to rub away hair Ancient Greek & Roman women similar
methods
Native Americans – Sharpened stones and seashells Rub off and pluck out hair
Ancient Turks – used Rusma – a combination of yellow
sulfide of arsenic, quicklime and rose water
crude depilatory (ex. Nair)
Two Major Categories Permanent Temporary
Most salons limited to this
Client Consultation ALWAYS necessary Questionnaire
Medications – topical/oral Skin disorders Allergies/sensitivities
changes can occur between visits
Medications - may not be able to receive services Antidepressants Hormones Cortisone Blood pressure Diabetes Retin A® Renova hydroquinone
Contraindication Condition that requires avoiding certain
treatments, procedures, or products to prevent undesirable side effects.
Contraindications for Hair Removal Clients should not have ANY waxing or
hair removal performed if anywhere on the body if they have any of the following without medical clearance Accutane – 6 months Blood thinning medications Drugs for autoimmune disease including
lupus Psoriasis, eczema, other chronic skin
disease
Prednisone or steroids Sunburn Presence of pustules or papules Recent cosmetic/reconstructive surgery
within 3 months Laser treatment Severe varicose veins Questionable medical condition
Facial waxing should not be performed on any of the following conditions without medical clearance Rosacea/very sensitive skin History of fever blisters or cold sores Recent chemical peel - glycolic, alpha
hydroxy, salicylic acid or other acid based products
Recent microdermabrasion Use of exfoliating topical medication Laser skin treatment or surgical peel Use of hydroquinone for skin lightening
Permanent Hair Removal Electrolysis
Removal of hair by means of an electric current that destroys the growth cells of hair
Current is applied with a very fine needle-shaped electrode inserted into the hair follicle
License electrologist http://hairremoval.about.com/od/electrol
ysis/a/Electrolysis101.htm
Photoepilation
Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) Uses intense light to destroy the growth
cells of the hair follicles No needles – minimizes risk of infection 50 % – 60% clearance of hair in 12
weeks
Administered by some cosmetologists/estheticians – depends on state law
Mfg. – generally provide special training http://www.estheticon.com/video/photo
epilation-2
Laser Hair Removal
Laser beam pulsed on skin, impairing growth
Most effective when used on follicles that are in the growth/anagen phase
Absolute requirement in that the hair must be darker than surrounding skin
Coarse, dark hair responds best to laser treatment
Not for everyone Permanent hair removal for some
clients For others it slows down regrowth Some states allowed under supervision
of doctor Requires special training Offered by equipment mfg. http://hairremoval.about.com/od/laser/a
/laser101.htm http://www.palomarmedical.com/treatm
ents/hair-removal.aspx
Laws Vary by state to state Check state guidelines
Temporary Hair Removal Shaving Tweezing Electronic Tweezers Depilatories Epilators Threading Sugaring
Shaving Most common form Men’s faces Area softened by
applying warm moist towel Shaving cream/lotion with lubrication and
calms the skin Electric clipper/trimmer - nape area Apply pre-shaving lotion to lessen irritation PP 693 – did you know?
Tweezing Commonly used for eyebrows Mouth and chin Correctly shaped eyebrows have:
Strong, positive impact on overall attractiveness
Natural arch of eyebrow follows shape of orbital bone
Electronic Tweezers Transmits radio frequency energy down
shaft to follicle Papilla dehydrated and eventually
destroyed Energy is applied first at low level to
pre-warm and then up to 2 minutes Not a method of permanent hair
removal
Depilatories Is a substance used for the temporary
removal of superfluous hair by dissolving at the skin level Caustic alkali product Contains detergents to strip sebum (oil) Adhesives to hold the chemicals to the
shaft for 5 – 10 minutes Hair expands and disulfide bonds break
Chemicals – to destroy the disulfide bonds Sodium hydroxide Potassium hydroxide Thioglycolic acid Calcium thioglycolate
Turn the hair into a soft jelly-like mass that can be scraped off
Requires a patch test – to see if sensitive to the action of the depilatory
Predisposition test Allergy test Hairless part of the arm Apply small amount – mfg. directions 7 – 10 minutes
Signs – negative reaction No swelling No redness No rash Can be used safely on larger of the skin Follow mfg. directions PP 694 – Focus on the Consultation Table 22-1
Epilators Removes hair from the bottom of the
follicle Common form - wax
Cold – Thicker Does not require fabric strips
Hot Requires fabric strips Test for temperature
4- 6 weeks regrowth
Applied to various parts of the face & body hair must be ¼” – ½” for waxing to be
effective Do not remove vellus hair – causes skin to
lose softness Client consultation Sign release form – not valid in PA Wear disposable gloves – prevent contact
with bloodborne pathogens
Safety Precautions Test temperature No contact with eyes Do not use over moles, warts,
abrasions, irritated or inflamed skin Under arm – cold wax Apply aloe to redness and swelling
reactions Caution box 695
Threading Practiced in Eastern cultures
The manipulation of cotton thread – twisted and rolled along skin surface Entwining hair in the thread and lifting
from follicle Increasing popularity in America –
Florida Requires special training
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gAK8im1ITk
Eyebrow Threading Tutorial. Learn how to thread eyebrows - YouTube
Sugaring Use of thick, sugar-based paste Appropriate for sensitive skin Advantage is can be used on 1/8” Sugaring
- See the Sugaring Technique for Hair Removal Video
Procedures Pre-service
Service Tip – PP697 Tweezing - PP 701
Here’s a Tip – PP 702
Hot Waxing eyebrows PP 703 Here’s a Tip - PP 704
Body waxing PP 705 Here’s a Tip - PP 705 Here’s a Tip - PP 706