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Co-Cure Stave Construction
11/10/2010
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Co-Cure cables should haveflashbreaker tape still coveringthe surface for this process.
SO - don’t remove the tape from the composite lay-upProcedure.
I do not have photos of the first few steps.Only after the first side of honeycomb is applied.
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-The honeycomb needs to have one side ground/sanded flat prior to bonding onthe first co-cure cable.Can be ground on a surface grinder using thick “Airtech” double sided tape.Or as we did if a grinder is not available at the time.Flat Mic6 plate and two spacer blocks. Sandpaper is applied to one side of the mic6 .Then honeycomb is sanded flat
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Each piece of honeycomb (HC) is dipped into a thin pool of epoxy and let sit for 30 seconds to allow the epoxy to wick onto the HC. Its then positioned onto the co-cure cable that is securely held down flat by the vacuum chuck. An aluminum plate with a silicon sheet is placed on top the HC and left overnight to cure. You can see the aluminum plate w/silicon and epoxy pool in the next slides.
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Red Silicon and aluminum plate.
Left to cure overnight.
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This first side with bonded HC is held flat by vacuum. Second side HC (exposed) is then surface ground or sanded.
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Completed Honeycomb side . Epoxy Pool for dipping Honeycomb.
The entire stave will be set into the pool for 30 sec then placed on top the 2nd co-cure facesheet that will be held flat by the vacuum chuck
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Align top co-cure to bottom co-cure. Place aluminum plate with silicon sheet on top. Add additional weight as needed.Red silicon can be seen under the alum plate.
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After minimum of 24 hour cure can be remover from fixture. Hysol EA 9396 epoxy has 80% cure at room temp in 24 hours. 100% cure room temp 72 hours.