Transcript

SPRING 2012FREE at select outlets and online or by subscription

Volume 22 Issue 1

Wondering where to kayakWe showcase seven top

British Columbia destinations

Join us online wwwcoastandkayakcom

James Dorsey reflects on the encounter that started it all

Living with whales

The best of BC

PM 4

1687

515

We examine the sub-culture that is Greenland kayaking ndash the punk rockers of paddlesports

The qayaq quotient

COASTampKAYAKMagazineThe magazine of coastal adventure and recreation

2 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Over 100 Sea Kayaks in Stock

Deep Cove Outdoorsdeepcoveoutdoorscom 6049872202

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 3

Dancing with Dinosaurs 8

The Qayaq Way 34

BC Trip Planner Spring 2012 12

James Dorsey reflects on how a chance kayaking trip turned into a lifelong passion for whales

Gerhardt Lepp looks at why he became one of the punk rockers of the kayaking world

bull Kyuquot and Spring Island bull 14bull Haida Gwaii SGang Gwaay bull 20bull Broken Group Islands bull 22bull Nuchatlitz Nootka Sound bull 23bull Gabriola Island North Gulf Islands bull 24

bull Desolation Sound Discovery Islands bull 25bull South Gulf Islands bull 26bull Yukon Territories bull 28bull Other destinations bull 30bull Exotic tropical destinations bull 31

First Word 4News 6BC Marine Trail Update by Stephanie Meinke 30Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC by Sheila Porteous 32Skillset by Alex Matthews 38When the Tide Is Out by Hilary Masson 40New Gear 44Events45Books 46

Inside

Find out where to go and what to do this year Featured are

4 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Spring 2012 Volume 22 Number 1 PM No 41687515

A product of

Wild Coast Publishing

PO Box 24 Stn ANanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

Ph 1-866-984-6437 bull Fax 1-866-654-1937Email kayakcoastandkayakcomWebsite wwwcoastandkayakcom

copy 2012 Copyright is retained on all material (text photos and graphics) in this magazine No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form print or electronic for any purpose

except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010 courtesy of the Atlas of Canada Also our thanks to Geobase for some

elements that may appear on CoastampKayak maps

Advertising rates and submission guidelinesavailable at wwwcoastandkayakcom

subscribe$20 for 1 year ndash 4 issues

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While CoastampKayak Magazine is made available free subscriptions ensure the magazine is delivered to your home and that you will never miss an issue

To subscribe visit wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml

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ISSUE ADDEADLINE DISTRIBUTION Spring2012 Jan27 Feb27 Summer2012 April27 May28 Fall2012 July2 Aug1 Winter2012 Oct1 Nov6

I expect of all the varieties of kayaking out there my particular style and niche is probably the most rare Irsquod categorize myself as a trekker I relish long-distance multi-day excursions covering as much area as possible

I suspect the most popular category is the rose-smeller or those who stop to smell the roses in the intertidal sense of the phrase daytrippers who use kayaks to explore bays and nooks and crannies and the rich intertidal life for which kayaks are supremely well suited No great energy need be expended nor miles logged nor any particular skills used which makes it so accessible These kayakers get all the benefits with very little in the way of investment or effort And thus the popularity

Some of those kayakers will probably graduate into other more defined styles of kayaking as they get better and seek out other ambitions I see my trekking as an outgrowth of rose-smelling as many miles may be involved but still kayaking over a long distance is slow enough and usually close enough to shore to allow careful investigation ndash just over a far greater and more varied environment It also allows you to smell roses in the most glorious wild and secluded locations some of which few people will ever get to visit amid a landscape and environment worlds away from where you started

Trekking isnrsquot for everyone Irsquove alienated friends and family by setting out on trips that were too ambitious and too demanding for their own interest Woe to the person who followed me as I said enthusiastically ldquoLetrsquos paddle to that island over thererdquo

There are the other niches in kayaking the obvious being surf or whitewater An emerging niche is the Greenland kayaker who follows the tradition set out generations ago by way of kayaks (qayaqs) paddles (pautiks) and skills (upside-down then back up again) Wersquore exploring that phenomenon a bit in this issue courtesy of Gerhardt Lepprsquos insights into his attraction to that niche I appreciate his comparison to Greenland kayakers being the punk rockers of kayaking Me I have no particular need to develop an arsenal of 23 types of Greenland rolls In fact to be a trekker you donrsquot need any particular skills in terms of performance I like to think trekking specializes in trip planning navigation and weather awareness in order to be comfortably self-reliant

The last bit is the true appeal of trekking After spending days in the wilderness with nothing more at your disposal than your own strength and abilities a sixth sense kicks in To me itrsquos developing a wonderful connectedness to nature ndash no longer being an observer but becoming as much a part of the environment as the birds and sea life around you That sense of belonging is an integral part of my enjoyment of kayaking and it is what keeps drawing me back to the water

What draws you The adrenaline of surf The satisfaction of learning a new roll The social milieu Or simply the enjoyment of an hour on the water It doesnrsquot matter

ndash itrsquos all part of the wide appeal of kayaking Enjoy the diverse options you have There is no wrong way to take part

- John Kimantaseditorcoastandkayakcom

Connecting by finding your niche

Coastampkayak maGaZINE is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops outdoor stores paddling clubs marinas events etc) and globally on the web Also available by paid subscription

Articles photos events news are all welcome

Find back issues articles events writers guidelines and advertising information online at coastandkayakcom

Cover Photo After logging thousands of miles along the BC coast we decided that Spring Island defines perfection ndash and to prove it we present an eight-page spread on this gem in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound

General queries kayakcoastandkayakcomEditorial editorcoastandkayakcomAdvertising kayakcoastandkayakcom

CoastampKayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible Safety and travel

information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge A safety course and proper equipment are advised

before any exploration on water See a list of paddling instruction locations at wwwcoastandkayakcom

A full moon paddle to Whitesand Cove on Flores Island

Contact Us

The First Word

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 5

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

News

PassINGs u Eric soaresKayaker author active blogger and one

of the founders of the Tsunami Rangers Eric Soares passed away Feb 1 in hospital while awaiting surgery to correct injuries from a bad skiing fall at Lake Tahoe

Eric Soares was an ardent pioneer kayaker exploring the rough coastal waters of northern California and southern Oregon as early as 1983 He and Jim Kakuk founded the Tsunami Rangers in 1985 as a social group leading the way in surf cave and rock garden kayaking

Eric was also a contributor to CoastampKayak Magazine writing the Summer 2009 cover article The Tao of Kayaking He was author of Confessions of a Wave Warrior a look back at the history and antics of the Rangers His blog entries can still be read at the Tsunami Rangers website u wwwtsunamirangerscom

NEW RaCE u Paddle the EdgeIf the Round Bowen Challenge and Alert

Bay 360 has caught your interest for the mix of

social and racing skills add Paddle the Edge to the agenda

The new race will be held June 11 in Ucluelet Harbour the day after the Edge to Edge Marathon from Ucluelet to Tofino

The Paddle the Edge will be a three-hour race in sheltered waters designed for intermediate to expert paddlers For more event listings visit coastandkayakcomu infouclueletinfocom

CaNCELLED u PaddlefestAdd Vancouver Island Paddlefest to the list

of kayak events cancelled on the West Coast in the past few years

The Vancouver Island Paddlefest announced a one-year hiatus to develop a strategic plan and to refine their mandate after successive years of declining attendance

The society will be talking to volunteers and partners to develop a new mandate u wwwpaddlefestbcca

LoGGING u Flores IslandLogging company Iisaak Forest Resources

is seeking helicopter log-drop zones in preparation for heli-logging operations on Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound

The company has already received permits for some heli-drop zones and a road-building permit for reaching the pristine island forest Meanwhile environmental groups are hoping for alternatives including additional time to develop protection strategies including conservation financing

Groups working behind the scene include Friends of Clayoquot Sound and the Sierra Club of BC Clayoquot Sound was named a

United Nations Biosphere Reserve in 2000 but key areas remain unprotected If logged the Flores Island forest will leave just 20 of Vancouver Islandrsquos 282 major rainforest watersheds unlogged Six other unlogged watersheds have no protected status five of those are in Clayoquot Sound and include Flores Islandu wwwfocscau wwwsierraclubbcca

FoLDING kayaks u BorealDesignQuebec company BorealDesign has

filed for bankruptcy Manufacturer of 25 models of kayaks as well as the Beluga line of paddlesports gear and the Maelstrom brand of kayaks the company based out of St-Augustine-de-Desmaures left 45 out of worku wwwborealdesigncom

PLastIC kayaks u a recycled kindA group of young adults is planning

a plastic kayak marathon ndash but not in a rotomolded plastic boat

Rather theyrsquoll be creating a kayak constructed entirely from used plastic bottles then kayaking it 42 kilometres from Tenerife in the Canary Islands to Spainrsquos La Gomera Island as part of a fundraiseru theplasticmarathonwordpresscom

EXPEDItIoNs u tragedy successA trip to paddle from Argentina to the

Falkland Islands ended in tragedy as Alejandro Daniel Carranza 49 died after covering 800 km along the west coast of Tierra del Fuego Kayaking partner Juan Pablo Dacyszyn 36 made it to safety by swimming to Isla de los Estados off the southern tip of Argentina

phot

o su

bmitt

ed c

ourt

esy

Mic

hael

Pow

ers

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

Meanwhile in her solo trip around South America Freya Hoffmeister successfully transited the same shoreline then circumnavigated Cape Horn before turning up the east coast into the Strait of Magellan and Chilersquos Patagonia regionu qajaqundergroundcom

maRINE PaRk GUIDE u FundraiserBC Parks has found out the hard way itrsquos

not in the bookselling business and after finding itself with some surplus copies of the BC Marine Parks Guide the Official Guide to BCrsquos Coastal Marine Parks it has decided to make them available to the BC Marine Parks Forever Society

In turn the BC Marine Parks Forever Society is making the books available by donation All proceeds will go towards the development and enhancement of the BC marine park system (not to be confused with the BC Marine Trails system)

The full-colour guide book provides park-by-park descriptions with maps and photography The books will be available at chandlers and yacht clubs in BC for a minimum $10 donation

The society has played a financial role in the purchase of Musket Island Jedediah Island Waves Coke Alison Harbour as well as additions to Octopus Island Marine Park and Squitty Bay Marine Parku wwwmarineparksforeverca

WatER tRaILs u Cape BretonCoastal water trail research is continuing

this year in Cape Breton along the Atlantic coast The Canoe Kayak Nova Scotia project provides paddlers with launch site locations

and other touring information The coastal section most recently

completed is from the Canso Causeway past Sydney to Big Bras drsquoOr This will connect with water trail work done in 2009 around the Bras drsquoOr Lakes The new section is now online PRotECtIoN u sansum Point

The Land Conservancy is closer to its goal of raising $185 million for the 52ha property at Sansum Point off Sansum Narrows near Duncan BC after an anonymous $100000 donation in memory of UBC professor Cortlandt Mackenzie and his late wife Jean

The donation follows a fundraising campaign started last year to secure the property and just $380000 remains to be raised

Sansum Point is a landmark when navigating Sansum Narrows adjacent to Saltspring Island and is rich in Garry oak arbutus and its defining moss and lichen-covered rocks

The Cowichan Valley Regional District took ownership in September 2011 turning it into parkland

u blogconservancybcca

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

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Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

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2072 Henry Avenue WestSidney BC (250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash eight years of manufacturing and

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News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

EW PEOPlE know at an early age which direction their life will take and I was no different

I was middle aged when I first entered the cockpit of a kayak and had no idea at the time I was also paddling into a world of awe and wonder that would connect me to whales in a way few have ever known

It began on a cold and gray morning typical of a British Columbia summer as we put in from Port Hardy on the northeastern flank of Vancouver Island Neither my wife nor I had ever been in a kayak before and we knew absolutely nothing about whales

It was our 25th wedding anniversary and our original plan had been to repeat our vows inside Parisrsquo Notre Dame Cathedral but somehow during the protracted process of paperwork and red tape I managed to enrage the vicar of Paris who summarily fired me as a possible candidate to be re-wed inside ldquohisrdquo cathedral probably making me unique in the history of weddings So on we went to Plan B based on a postcard received out of the blue from an outfitter that showed a man in a kayak paddling next to a killer whale

To me it seemed the most exotic adventure possible for a wedding anniversary but my wife looked at it as sheer lunacy

The card sat on her desk unread for two weeks before her adventurous side took over and she said it might be worth looking into Those words to my male mind meant book the trip and we soon found ourselves winging northward swathed head to toe in the latest outdoor fashions part of a guided group of novice paddlers about to spend our first week ever in true wilderness

We had exactly one hour of instruction within the peaceful confines of a local marina about how to enter and exit a kayak

how to paddle forward backwards and most importantly what to do if we flipped our boat (Blow a whistle and yell like crazy) It did not add to our confidence that our guide looked like he had yet to shave and used words like ldquoDuderdquo and ldquoAwesomerdquo

With all that experience under our belt we went forth into the great blue unknown

My wife and I were in a tandem fibreglass kayak Irene in the front and me in the rear With the wind making me unable to hear her comments or she mine I understood immediately the guidersquos remark as to why they referred to tandem kayaks as ldquodivorce boatsrdquo

Within the first hour our marine radio crackled through the fog and a scratchy voice informed us that a pod of orcas was headed our way Our guide told us to raft up and if we were fortunate the whales just might pass close enough for us to get a good look

Then we saw the large black dorsal break the surface better than a quarter mile away but coming at us like a submarine periscope rising and falling

I did not know at the time that Orcinus orca the so-called killer whale belonging to the oceanic dolphin family could weigh as much as nine tons and can travel as fast at 50 kmh I also did not know it was one of a handful of toothed whales that ate flesh

Before that moment we were enjoying a truly exotic and unique vacation in which the very thought of encountering a whale had been only an abstract possibility Now even without the knowledge that this was the top predator of the entire world bearing down on us at full tilt we were truly terrified

u

Wildlife

Dancing with Dinosaurs

F

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

by James Michael Dorsey

Dancing with Dinosaurs

a naturalist reflects on achance encounter that changeD his life

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The whale was among our group in seconds surfacing just ahead of our lead boat For reasons I still do not remember and before terror replaced logic I took a quick photo with my old and trusty point and shoot camera (long before digital) It was like sitting on a railroad track waiting for a head-on collision

The orca dove under the first boat and surfaced directly in front of us its giant black head the size of Montana and its glistening dorsal towered over us like an enormous scythe I remember seeing its tiny black eye riveted on me as it rolled at the very last second so its dorsal would clear our keel and it passed directly beneath us close enough to touch

Watching that sleek black body and white saddle patch glide just under the surface is an image burned forever in my memory

I had never before been so close to a wild animal not even in a zoo For this to have occurred in the animalrsquos own habitat was at the time overwhelming I sat there silently searching for words to describe what I was feeling and nothing could express it

Neither my wife nor I realized at the time how our lives had been changed

For the rest of the week we saw no large whales only an occasional tiny minke and even then mostly just the sound of their blows as they slid past our nightly campfires as low silhouetted shadows skimming over the water just offshore

For both of us it was a week of revelation seeing the unsurpassed beauty

of British Columbia from the water silently gliding over a crystal clear littoral full of sea stars anemones and countless unidentifiable fish It was like being in our own giant aquarium We witnessed a pregnant deer swimming to a tiny rock island to have her foal away from prowling wolves we were stunned to see a full grown moose emerge from the water its antlers draped with watercress from feeding and countless harbor seals poke their head up huge black eyes taking a quick peek at us strange creatures before crash-diving in front of our bows

One day while rounding a rocky point we were faced with the rear of a black bear loudly defecating a massive amount of berries it had consumed It looked over its shoulder at our invasion grunted loudly and slowly waddled back into the forest as the stench of its breakfast wafted over our boats

We watched as eagles plucked fish from the water with their talons sometimes dropping them in the process and we even stole one for an eveningrsquos

dinner the fish stunned by its fall lying inert on the surface as we paddled by That initiated an hour of dive-bombing and name-calling by a very irate eagle who even after we floated the fish back to be picked up would not touch it after being handled by humans

We realized animals did not fear us because they simply were not used to seeing people in such a remote area and to them a kayak was nothing more than one more log a very frequent occurrence floating past

Most importantly it was the first week in my life that I heard no mechanical sounds and we both commented about how we felt our senses heightened our hearing more attuned to naturersquos tiniest intrusion and our vision more focused on searching for natural wonders than the mundane scenes of everyday city life

For us the path was clear There was no going back

Almost a year to the day of our first orca encounter I was paddling those familiar waterways with a friend because

Wildlife

Our relationship with whales is long and complex

The snapshot of the killer whale encounter that started it all for James Dorsey

Before there was myth and legend before the earth had yet to know man there were whales

The earliest known reference to whales appears in the Bible in Genesis 121 The reference is structured with a comma to differentiate between the creation of the oceans and the whale mentioning before any other species ldquoAnd God created the great whalesrdquo The term ldquogreatrdquo has long been thought by Biblical scholars to mean the blue whale the worldrsquos largest creature as the first animal to occupy the seas However there also exists today skeletal proof of land mammals archaeocetes that were the forefathers of todayrsquos modern whales ndash a link to their dinosaur past

The ancient oral histories of the Inuit and Inupiaq people of the far north tell of remarkable ocean-going craft made from whale bones and covered with the skin of seals or walruses thus linking man and whale since before recorded history

For uncounted millennia man and whale have traversed the seas together often trading places as victim or hunter and in recent memory as friends The Icelandic sagas refer to giant sea monsters spouting fire from the top of their heads while early sailors often referred to them as devil fish It is the most complex relationship between human and animal the world has ever known constantly evolving and surprising and the catalyst for this symbiotic relationship has long been the kayak

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

2 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Over 100 Sea Kayaks in Stock

Deep Cove Outdoorsdeepcoveoutdoorscom 6049872202

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 3

Dancing with Dinosaurs 8

The Qayaq Way 34

BC Trip Planner Spring 2012 12

James Dorsey reflects on how a chance kayaking trip turned into a lifelong passion for whales

Gerhardt Lepp looks at why he became one of the punk rockers of the kayaking world

bull Kyuquot and Spring Island bull 14bull Haida Gwaii SGang Gwaay bull 20bull Broken Group Islands bull 22bull Nuchatlitz Nootka Sound bull 23bull Gabriola Island North Gulf Islands bull 24

bull Desolation Sound Discovery Islands bull 25bull South Gulf Islands bull 26bull Yukon Territories bull 28bull Other destinations bull 30bull Exotic tropical destinations bull 31

First Word 4News 6BC Marine Trail Update by Stephanie Meinke 30Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC by Sheila Porteous 32Skillset by Alex Matthews 38When the Tide Is Out by Hilary Masson 40New Gear 44Events45Books 46

Inside

Find out where to go and what to do this year Featured are

4 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Spring 2012 Volume 22 Number 1 PM No 41687515

A product of

Wild Coast Publishing

PO Box 24 Stn ANanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

Ph 1-866-984-6437 bull Fax 1-866-654-1937Email kayakcoastandkayakcomWebsite wwwcoastandkayakcom

copy 2012 Copyright is retained on all material (text photos and graphics) in this magazine No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form print or electronic for any purpose

except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010 courtesy of the Atlas of Canada Also our thanks to Geobase for some

elements that may appear on CoastampKayak maps

Advertising rates and submission guidelinesavailable at wwwcoastandkayakcom

subscribe$20 for 1 year ndash 4 issues

$35 for 2 years ndash 8 issues

While CoastampKayak Magazine is made available free subscriptions ensure the magazine is delivered to your home and that you will never miss an issue

To subscribe visit wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml

or call 1-866-984-6437

ISSUE ADDEADLINE DISTRIBUTION Spring2012 Jan27 Feb27 Summer2012 April27 May28 Fall2012 July2 Aug1 Winter2012 Oct1 Nov6

I expect of all the varieties of kayaking out there my particular style and niche is probably the most rare Irsquod categorize myself as a trekker I relish long-distance multi-day excursions covering as much area as possible

I suspect the most popular category is the rose-smeller or those who stop to smell the roses in the intertidal sense of the phrase daytrippers who use kayaks to explore bays and nooks and crannies and the rich intertidal life for which kayaks are supremely well suited No great energy need be expended nor miles logged nor any particular skills used which makes it so accessible These kayakers get all the benefits with very little in the way of investment or effort And thus the popularity

Some of those kayakers will probably graduate into other more defined styles of kayaking as they get better and seek out other ambitions I see my trekking as an outgrowth of rose-smelling as many miles may be involved but still kayaking over a long distance is slow enough and usually close enough to shore to allow careful investigation ndash just over a far greater and more varied environment It also allows you to smell roses in the most glorious wild and secluded locations some of which few people will ever get to visit amid a landscape and environment worlds away from where you started

Trekking isnrsquot for everyone Irsquove alienated friends and family by setting out on trips that were too ambitious and too demanding for their own interest Woe to the person who followed me as I said enthusiastically ldquoLetrsquos paddle to that island over thererdquo

There are the other niches in kayaking the obvious being surf or whitewater An emerging niche is the Greenland kayaker who follows the tradition set out generations ago by way of kayaks (qayaqs) paddles (pautiks) and skills (upside-down then back up again) Wersquore exploring that phenomenon a bit in this issue courtesy of Gerhardt Lepprsquos insights into his attraction to that niche I appreciate his comparison to Greenland kayakers being the punk rockers of kayaking Me I have no particular need to develop an arsenal of 23 types of Greenland rolls In fact to be a trekker you donrsquot need any particular skills in terms of performance I like to think trekking specializes in trip planning navigation and weather awareness in order to be comfortably self-reliant

The last bit is the true appeal of trekking After spending days in the wilderness with nothing more at your disposal than your own strength and abilities a sixth sense kicks in To me itrsquos developing a wonderful connectedness to nature ndash no longer being an observer but becoming as much a part of the environment as the birds and sea life around you That sense of belonging is an integral part of my enjoyment of kayaking and it is what keeps drawing me back to the water

What draws you The adrenaline of surf The satisfaction of learning a new roll The social milieu Or simply the enjoyment of an hour on the water It doesnrsquot matter

ndash itrsquos all part of the wide appeal of kayaking Enjoy the diverse options you have There is no wrong way to take part

- John Kimantaseditorcoastandkayakcom

Connecting by finding your niche

Coastampkayak maGaZINE is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops outdoor stores paddling clubs marinas events etc) and globally on the web Also available by paid subscription

Articles photos events news are all welcome

Find back issues articles events writers guidelines and advertising information online at coastandkayakcom

Cover Photo After logging thousands of miles along the BC coast we decided that Spring Island defines perfection ndash and to prove it we present an eight-page spread on this gem in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound

General queries kayakcoastandkayakcomEditorial editorcoastandkayakcomAdvertising kayakcoastandkayakcom

CoastampKayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible Safety and travel

information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge A safety course and proper equipment are advised

before any exploration on water See a list of paddling instruction locations at wwwcoastandkayakcom

A full moon paddle to Whitesand Cove on Flores Island

Contact Us

The First Word

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 5

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

News

PassINGs u Eric soaresKayaker author active blogger and one

of the founders of the Tsunami Rangers Eric Soares passed away Feb 1 in hospital while awaiting surgery to correct injuries from a bad skiing fall at Lake Tahoe

Eric Soares was an ardent pioneer kayaker exploring the rough coastal waters of northern California and southern Oregon as early as 1983 He and Jim Kakuk founded the Tsunami Rangers in 1985 as a social group leading the way in surf cave and rock garden kayaking

Eric was also a contributor to CoastampKayak Magazine writing the Summer 2009 cover article The Tao of Kayaking He was author of Confessions of a Wave Warrior a look back at the history and antics of the Rangers His blog entries can still be read at the Tsunami Rangers website u wwwtsunamirangerscom

NEW RaCE u Paddle the EdgeIf the Round Bowen Challenge and Alert

Bay 360 has caught your interest for the mix of

social and racing skills add Paddle the Edge to the agenda

The new race will be held June 11 in Ucluelet Harbour the day after the Edge to Edge Marathon from Ucluelet to Tofino

The Paddle the Edge will be a three-hour race in sheltered waters designed for intermediate to expert paddlers For more event listings visit coastandkayakcomu infouclueletinfocom

CaNCELLED u PaddlefestAdd Vancouver Island Paddlefest to the list

of kayak events cancelled on the West Coast in the past few years

The Vancouver Island Paddlefest announced a one-year hiatus to develop a strategic plan and to refine their mandate after successive years of declining attendance

The society will be talking to volunteers and partners to develop a new mandate u wwwpaddlefestbcca

LoGGING u Flores IslandLogging company Iisaak Forest Resources

is seeking helicopter log-drop zones in preparation for heli-logging operations on Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound

The company has already received permits for some heli-drop zones and a road-building permit for reaching the pristine island forest Meanwhile environmental groups are hoping for alternatives including additional time to develop protection strategies including conservation financing

Groups working behind the scene include Friends of Clayoquot Sound and the Sierra Club of BC Clayoquot Sound was named a

United Nations Biosphere Reserve in 2000 but key areas remain unprotected If logged the Flores Island forest will leave just 20 of Vancouver Islandrsquos 282 major rainforest watersheds unlogged Six other unlogged watersheds have no protected status five of those are in Clayoquot Sound and include Flores Islandu wwwfocscau wwwsierraclubbcca

FoLDING kayaks u BorealDesignQuebec company BorealDesign has

filed for bankruptcy Manufacturer of 25 models of kayaks as well as the Beluga line of paddlesports gear and the Maelstrom brand of kayaks the company based out of St-Augustine-de-Desmaures left 45 out of worku wwwborealdesigncom

PLastIC kayaks u a recycled kindA group of young adults is planning

a plastic kayak marathon ndash but not in a rotomolded plastic boat

Rather theyrsquoll be creating a kayak constructed entirely from used plastic bottles then kayaking it 42 kilometres from Tenerife in the Canary Islands to Spainrsquos La Gomera Island as part of a fundraiseru theplasticmarathonwordpresscom

EXPEDItIoNs u tragedy successA trip to paddle from Argentina to the

Falkland Islands ended in tragedy as Alejandro Daniel Carranza 49 died after covering 800 km along the west coast of Tierra del Fuego Kayaking partner Juan Pablo Dacyszyn 36 made it to safety by swimming to Isla de los Estados off the southern tip of Argentina

phot

o su

bmitt

ed c

ourt

esy

Mic

hael

Pow

ers

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

Meanwhile in her solo trip around South America Freya Hoffmeister successfully transited the same shoreline then circumnavigated Cape Horn before turning up the east coast into the Strait of Magellan and Chilersquos Patagonia regionu qajaqundergroundcom

maRINE PaRk GUIDE u FundraiserBC Parks has found out the hard way itrsquos

not in the bookselling business and after finding itself with some surplus copies of the BC Marine Parks Guide the Official Guide to BCrsquos Coastal Marine Parks it has decided to make them available to the BC Marine Parks Forever Society

In turn the BC Marine Parks Forever Society is making the books available by donation All proceeds will go towards the development and enhancement of the BC marine park system (not to be confused with the BC Marine Trails system)

The full-colour guide book provides park-by-park descriptions with maps and photography The books will be available at chandlers and yacht clubs in BC for a minimum $10 donation

The society has played a financial role in the purchase of Musket Island Jedediah Island Waves Coke Alison Harbour as well as additions to Octopus Island Marine Park and Squitty Bay Marine Parku wwwmarineparksforeverca

WatER tRaILs u Cape BretonCoastal water trail research is continuing

this year in Cape Breton along the Atlantic coast The Canoe Kayak Nova Scotia project provides paddlers with launch site locations

and other touring information The coastal section most recently

completed is from the Canso Causeway past Sydney to Big Bras drsquoOr This will connect with water trail work done in 2009 around the Bras drsquoOr Lakes The new section is now online PRotECtIoN u sansum Point

The Land Conservancy is closer to its goal of raising $185 million for the 52ha property at Sansum Point off Sansum Narrows near Duncan BC after an anonymous $100000 donation in memory of UBC professor Cortlandt Mackenzie and his late wife Jean

The donation follows a fundraising campaign started last year to secure the property and just $380000 remains to be raised

Sansum Point is a landmark when navigating Sansum Narrows adjacent to Saltspring Island and is rich in Garry oak arbutus and its defining moss and lichen-covered rocks

The Cowichan Valley Regional District took ownership in September 2011 turning it into parkland

u blogconservancybcca

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

FEATURING

woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

Kayak Repair amp Refit

bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

Vancouver Island South

2072 Henry Avenue WestSidney BC (250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash eight years of manufacturing and

repair experience

bull Keel Line Rebuildsbull Structural Repairs

Blackline_10WIindd 1 1072010 22232 PM

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

BUY FACTORY DIRECT wwwnimbuspaddlescom infonimbuspaddlescom

designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

EW PEOPlE know at an early age which direction their life will take and I was no different

I was middle aged when I first entered the cockpit of a kayak and had no idea at the time I was also paddling into a world of awe and wonder that would connect me to whales in a way few have ever known

It began on a cold and gray morning typical of a British Columbia summer as we put in from Port Hardy on the northeastern flank of Vancouver Island Neither my wife nor I had ever been in a kayak before and we knew absolutely nothing about whales

It was our 25th wedding anniversary and our original plan had been to repeat our vows inside Parisrsquo Notre Dame Cathedral but somehow during the protracted process of paperwork and red tape I managed to enrage the vicar of Paris who summarily fired me as a possible candidate to be re-wed inside ldquohisrdquo cathedral probably making me unique in the history of weddings So on we went to Plan B based on a postcard received out of the blue from an outfitter that showed a man in a kayak paddling next to a killer whale

To me it seemed the most exotic adventure possible for a wedding anniversary but my wife looked at it as sheer lunacy

The card sat on her desk unread for two weeks before her adventurous side took over and she said it might be worth looking into Those words to my male mind meant book the trip and we soon found ourselves winging northward swathed head to toe in the latest outdoor fashions part of a guided group of novice paddlers about to spend our first week ever in true wilderness

We had exactly one hour of instruction within the peaceful confines of a local marina about how to enter and exit a kayak

how to paddle forward backwards and most importantly what to do if we flipped our boat (Blow a whistle and yell like crazy) It did not add to our confidence that our guide looked like he had yet to shave and used words like ldquoDuderdquo and ldquoAwesomerdquo

With all that experience under our belt we went forth into the great blue unknown

My wife and I were in a tandem fibreglass kayak Irene in the front and me in the rear With the wind making me unable to hear her comments or she mine I understood immediately the guidersquos remark as to why they referred to tandem kayaks as ldquodivorce boatsrdquo

Within the first hour our marine radio crackled through the fog and a scratchy voice informed us that a pod of orcas was headed our way Our guide told us to raft up and if we were fortunate the whales just might pass close enough for us to get a good look

Then we saw the large black dorsal break the surface better than a quarter mile away but coming at us like a submarine periscope rising and falling

I did not know at the time that Orcinus orca the so-called killer whale belonging to the oceanic dolphin family could weigh as much as nine tons and can travel as fast at 50 kmh I also did not know it was one of a handful of toothed whales that ate flesh

Before that moment we were enjoying a truly exotic and unique vacation in which the very thought of encountering a whale had been only an abstract possibility Now even without the knowledge that this was the top predator of the entire world bearing down on us at full tilt we were truly terrified

u

Wildlife

Dancing with Dinosaurs

F

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

by James Michael Dorsey

Dancing with Dinosaurs

a naturalist reflects on achance encounter that changeD his life

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The whale was among our group in seconds surfacing just ahead of our lead boat For reasons I still do not remember and before terror replaced logic I took a quick photo with my old and trusty point and shoot camera (long before digital) It was like sitting on a railroad track waiting for a head-on collision

The orca dove under the first boat and surfaced directly in front of us its giant black head the size of Montana and its glistening dorsal towered over us like an enormous scythe I remember seeing its tiny black eye riveted on me as it rolled at the very last second so its dorsal would clear our keel and it passed directly beneath us close enough to touch

Watching that sleek black body and white saddle patch glide just under the surface is an image burned forever in my memory

I had never before been so close to a wild animal not even in a zoo For this to have occurred in the animalrsquos own habitat was at the time overwhelming I sat there silently searching for words to describe what I was feeling and nothing could express it

Neither my wife nor I realized at the time how our lives had been changed

For the rest of the week we saw no large whales only an occasional tiny minke and even then mostly just the sound of their blows as they slid past our nightly campfires as low silhouetted shadows skimming over the water just offshore

For both of us it was a week of revelation seeing the unsurpassed beauty

of British Columbia from the water silently gliding over a crystal clear littoral full of sea stars anemones and countless unidentifiable fish It was like being in our own giant aquarium We witnessed a pregnant deer swimming to a tiny rock island to have her foal away from prowling wolves we were stunned to see a full grown moose emerge from the water its antlers draped with watercress from feeding and countless harbor seals poke their head up huge black eyes taking a quick peek at us strange creatures before crash-diving in front of our bows

One day while rounding a rocky point we were faced with the rear of a black bear loudly defecating a massive amount of berries it had consumed It looked over its shoulder at our invasion grunted loudly and slowly waddled back into the forest as the stench of its breakfast wafted over our boats

We watched as eagles plucked fish from the water with their talons sometimes dropping them in the process and we even stole one for an eveningrsquos

dinner the fish stunned by its fall lying inert on the surface as we paddled by That initiated an hour of dive-bombing and name-calling by a very irate eagle who even after we floated the fish back to be picked up would not touch it after being handled by humans

We realized animals did not fear us because they simply were not used to seeing people in such a remote area and to them a kayak was nothing more than one more log a very frequent occurrence floating past

Most importantly it was the first week in my life that I heard no mechanical sounds and we both commented about how we felt our senses heightened our hearing more attuned to naturersquos tiniest intrusion and our vision more focused on searching for natural wonders than the mundane scenes of everyday city life

For us the path was clear There was no going back

Almost a year to the day of our first orca encounter I was paddling those familiar waterways with a friend because

Wildlife

Our relationship with whales is long and complex

The snapshot of the killer whale encounter that started it all for James Dorsey

Before there was myth and legend before the earth had yet to know man there were whales

The earliest known reference to whales appears in the Bible in Genesis 121 The reference is structured with a comma to differentiate between the creation of the oceans and the whale mentioning before any other species ldquoAnd God created the great whalesrdquo The term ldquogreatrdquo has long been thought by Biblical scholars to mean the blue whale the worldrsquos largest creature as the first animal to occupy the seas However there also exists today skeletal proof of land mammals archaeocetes that were the forefathers of todayrsquos modern whales ndash a link to their dinosaur past

The ancient oral histories of the Inuit and Inupiaq people of the far north tell of remarkable ocean-going craft made from whale bones and covered with the skin of seals or walruses thus linking man and whale since before recorded history

For uncounted millennia man and whale have traversed the seas together often trading places as victim or hunter and in recent memory as friends The Icelandic sagas refer to giant sea monsters spouting fire from the top of their heads while early sailors often referred to them as devil fish It is the most complex relationship between human and animal the world has ever known constantly evolving and surprising and the catalyst for this symbiotic relationship has long been the kayak

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 3

Dancing with Dinosaurs 8

The Qayaq Way 34

BC Trip Planner Spring 2012 12

James Dorsey reflects on how a chance kayaking trip turned into a lifelong passion for whales

Gerhardt Lepp looks at why he became one of the punk rockers of the kayaking world

bull Kyuquot and Spring Island bull 14bull Haida Gwaii SGang Gwaay bull 20bull Broken Group Islands bull 22bull Nuchatlitz Nootka Sound bull 23bull Gabriola Island North Gulf Islands bull 24

bull Desolation Sound Discovery Islands bull 25bull South Gulf Islands bull 26bull Yukon Territories bull 28bull Other destinations bull 30bull Exotic tropical destinations bull 31

First Word 4News 6BC Marine Trail Update by Stephanie Meinke 30Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC by Sheila Porteous 32Skillset by Alex Matthews 38When the Tide Is Out by Hilary Masson 40New Gear 44Events45Books 46

Inside

Find out where to go and what to do this year Featured are

4 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Spring 2012 Volume 22 Number 1 PM No 41687515

A product of

Wild Coast Publishing

PO Box 24 Stn ANanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

Ph 1-866-984-6437 bull Fax 1-866-654-1937Email kayakcoastandkayakcomWebsite wwwcoastandkayakcom

copy 2012 Copyright is retained on all material (text photos and graphics) in this magazine No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form print or electronic for any purpose

except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010 courtesy of the Atlas of Canada Also our thanks to Geobase for some

elements that may appear on CoastampKayak maps

Advertising rates and submission guidelinesavailable at wwwcoastandkayakcom

subscribe$20 for 1 year ndash 4 issues

$35 for 2 years ndash 8 issues

While CoastampKayak Magazine is made available free subscriptions ensure the magazine is delivered to your home and that you will never miss an issue

To subscribe visit wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml

or call 1-866-984-6437

ISSUE ADDEADLINE DISTRIBUTION Spring2012 Jan27 Feb27 Summer2012 April27 May28 Fall2012 July2 Aug1 Winter2012 Oct1 Nov6

I expect of all the varieties of kayaking out there my particular style and niche is probably the most rare Irsquod categorize myself as a trekker I relish long-distance multi-day excursions covering as much area as possible

I suspect the most popular category is the rose-smeller or those who stop to smell the roses in the intertidal sense of the phrase daytrippers who use kayaks to explore bays and nooks and crannies and the rich intertidal life for which kayaks are supremely well suited No great energy need be expended nor miles logged nor any particular skills used which makes it so accessible These kayakers get all the benefits with very little in the way of investment or effort And thus the popularity

Some of those kayakers will probably graduate into other more defined styles of kayaking as they get better and seek out other ambitions I see my trekking as an outgrowth of rose-smelling as many miles may be involved but still kayaking over a long distance is slow enough and usually close enough to shore to allow careful investigation ndash just over a far greater and more varied environment It also allows you to smell roses in the most glorious wild and secluded locations some of which few people will ever get to visit amid a landscape and environment worlds away from where you started

Trekking isnrsquot for everyone Irsquove alienated friends and family by setting out on trips that were too ambitious and too demanding for their own interest Woe to the person who followed me as I said enthusiastically ldquoLetrsquos paddle to that island over thererdquo

There are the other niches in kayaking the obvious being surf or whitewater An emerging niche is the Greenland kayaker who follows the tradition set out generations ago by way of kayaks (qayaqs) paddles (pautiks) and skills (upside-down then back up again) Wersquore exploring that phenomenon a bit in this issue courtesy of Gerhardt Lepprsquos insights into his attraction to that niche I appreciate his comparison to Greenland kayakers being the punk rockers of kayaking Me I have no particular need to develop an arsenal of 23 types of Greenland rolls In fact to be a trekker you donrsquot need any particular skills in terms of performance I like to think trekking specializes in trip planning navigation and weather awareness in order to be comfortably self-reliant

The last bit is the true appeal of trekking After spending days in the wilderness with nothing more at your disposal than your own strength and abilities a sixth sense kicks in To me itrsquos developing a wonderful connectedness to nature ndash no longer being an observer but becoming as much a part of the environment as the birds and sea life around you That sense of belonging is an integral part of my enjoyment of kayaking and it is what keeps drawing me back to the water

What draws you The adrenaline of surf The satisfaction of learning a new roll The social milieu Or simply the enjoyment of an hour on the water It doesnrsquot matter

ndash itrsquos all part of the wide appeal of kayaking Enjoy the diverse options you have There is no wrong way to take part

- John Kimantaseditorcoastandkayakcom

Connecting by finding your niche

Coastampkayak maGaZINE is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops outdoor stores paddling clubs marinas events etc) and globally on the web Also available by paid subscription

Articles photos events news are all welcome

Find back issues articles events writers guidelines and advertising information online at coastandkayakcom

Cover Photo After logging thousands of miles along the BC coast we decided that Spring Island defines perfection ndash and to prove it we present an eight-page spread on this gem in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound

General queries kayakcoastandkayakcomEditorial editorcoastandkayakcomAdvertising kayakcoastandkayakcom

CoastampKayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible Safety and travel

information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge A safety course and proper equipment are advised

before any exploration on water See a list of paddling instruction locations at wwwcoastandkayakcom

A full moon paddle to Whitesand Cove on Flores Island

Contact Us

The First Word

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 5

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

News

PassINGs u Eric soaresKayaker author active blogger and one

of the founders of the Tsunami Rangers Eric Soares passed away Feb 1 in hospital while awaiting surgery to correct injuries from a bad skiing fall at Lake Tahoe

Eric Soares was an ardent pioneer kayaker exploring the rough coastal waters of northern California and southern Oregon as early as 1983 He and Jim Kakuk founded the Tsunami Rangers in 1985 as a social group leading the way in surf cave and rock garden kayaking

Eric was also a contributor to CoastampKayak Magazine writing the Summer 2009 cover article The Tao of Kayaking He was author of Confessions of a Wave Warrior a look back at the history and antics of the Rangers His blog entries can still be read at the Tsunami Rangers website u wwwtsunamirangerscom

NEW RaCE u Paddle the EdgeIf the Round Bowen Challenge and Alert

Bay 360 has caught your interest for the mix of

social and racing skills add Paddle the Edge to the agenda

The new race will be held June 11 in Ucluelet Harbour the day after the Edge to Edge Marathon from Ucluelet to Tofino

The Paddle the Edge will be a three-hour race in sheltered waters designed for intermediate to expert paddlers For more event listings visit coastandkayakcomu infouclueletinfocom

CaNCELLED u PaddlefestAdd Vancouver Island Paddlefest to the list

of kayak events cancelled on the West Coast in the past few years

The Vancouver Island Paddlefest announced a one-year hiatus to develop a strategic plan and to refine their mandate after successive years of declining attendance

The society will be talking to volunteers and partners to develop a new mandate u wwwpaddlefestbcca

LoGGING u Flores IslandLogging company Iisaak Forest Resources

is seeking helicopter log-drop zones in preparation for heli-logging operations on Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound

The company has already received permits for some heli-drop zones and a road-building permit for reaching the pristine island forest Meanwhile environmental groups are hoping for alternatives including additional time to develop protection strategies including conservation financing

Groups working behind the scene include Friends of Clayoquot Sound and the Sierra Club of BC Clayoquot Sound was named a

United Nations Biosphere Reserve in 2000 but key areas remain unprotected If logged the Flores Island forest will leave just 20 of Vancouver Islandrsquos 282 major rainforest watersheds unlogged Six other unlogged watersheds have no protected status five of those are in Clayoquot Sound and include Flores Islandu wwwfocscau wwwsierraclubbcca

FoLDING kayaks u BorealDesignQuebec company BorealDesign has

filed for bankruptcy Manufacturer of 25 models of kayaks as well as the Beluga line of paddlesports gear and the Maelstrom brand of kayaks the company based out of St-Augustine-de-Desmaures left 45 out of worku wwwborealdesigncom

PLastIC kayaks u a recycled kindA group of young adults is planning

a plastic kayak marathon ndash but not in a rotomolded plastic boat

Rather theyrsquoll be creating a kayak constructed entirely from used plastic bottles then kayaking it 42 kilometres from Tenerife in the Canary Islands to Spainrsquos La Gomera Island as part of a fundraiseru theplasticmarathonwordpresscom

EXPEDItIoNs u tragedy successA trip to paddle from Argentina to the

Falkland Islands ended in tragedy as Alejandro Daniel Carranza 49 died after covering 800 km along the west coast of Tierra del Fuego Kayaking partner Juan Pablo Dacyszyn 36 made it to safety by swimming to Isla de los Estados off the southern tip of Argentina

phot

o su

bmitt

ed c

ourt

esy

Mic

hael

Pow

ers

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

Meanwhile in her solo trip around South America Freya Hoffmeister successfully transited the same shoreline then circumnavigated Cape Horn before turning up the east coast into the Strait of Magellan and Chilersquos Patagonia regionu qajaqundergroundcom

maRINE PaRk GUIDE u FundraiserBC Parks has found out the hard way itrsquos

not in the bookselling business and after finding itself with some surplus copies of the BC Marine Parks Guide the Official Guide to BCrsquos Coastal Marine Parks it has decided to make them available to the BC Marine Parks Forever Society

In turn the BC Marine Parks Forever Society is making the books available by donation All proceeds will go towards the development and enhancement of the BC marine park system (not to be confused with the BC Marine Trails system)

The full-colour guide book provides park-by-park descriptions with maps and photography The books will be available at chandlers and yacht clubs in BC for a minimum $10 donation

The society has played a financial role in the purchase of Musket Island Jedediah Island Waves Coke Alison Harbour as well as additions to Octopus Island Marine Park and Squitty Bay Marine Parku wwwmarineparksforeverca

WatER tRaILs u Cape BretonCoastal water trail research is continuing

this year in Cape Breton along the Atlantic coast The Canoe Kayak Nova Scotia project provides paddlers with launch site locations

and other touring information The coastal section most recently

completed is from the Canso Causeway past Sydney to Big Bras drsquoOr This will connect with water trail work done in 2009 around the Bras drsquoOr Lakes The new section is now online PRotECtIoN u sansum Point

The Land Conservancy is closer to its goal of raising $185 million for the 52ha property at Sansum Point off Sansum Narrows near Duncan BC after an anonymous $100000 donation in memory of UBC professor Cortlandt Mackenzie and his late wife Jean

The donation follows a fundraising campaign started last year to secure the property and just $380000 remains to be raised

Sansum Point is a landmark when navigating Sansum Narrows adjacent to Saltspring Island and is rich in Garry oak arbutus and its defining moss and lichen-covered rocks

The Cowichan Valley Regional District took ownership in September 2011 turning it into parkland

u blogconservancybcca

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

FEATURING

woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

Kayak Repair amp Refit

bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

Vancouver Island South

2072 Henry Avenue WestSidney BC (250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash eight years of manufacturing and

repair experience

bull Keel Line Rebuildsbull Structural Repairs

Blackline_10WIindd 1 1072010 22232 PM

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

BUY FACTORY DIRECT wwwnimbuspaddlescom infonimbuspaddlescom

designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

EW PEOPlE know at an early age which direction their life will take and I was no different

I was middle aged when I first entered the cockpit of a kayak and had no idea at the time I was also paddling into a world of awe and wonder that would connect me to whales in a way few have ever known

It began on a cold and gray morning typical of a British Columbia summer as we put in from Port Hardy on the northeastern flank of Vancouver Island Neither my wife nor I had ever been in a kayak before and we knew absolutely nothing about whales

It was our 25th wedding anniversary and our original plan had been to repeat our vows inside Parisrsquo Notre Dame Cathedral but somehow during the protracted process of paperwork and red tape I managed to enrage the vicar of Paris who summarily fired me as a possible candidate to be re-wed inside ldquohisrdquo cathedral probably making me unique in the history of weddings So on we went to Plan B based on a postcard received out of the blue from an outfitter that showed a man in a kayak paddling next to a killer whale

To me it seemed the most exotic adventure possible for a wedding anniversary but my wife looked at it as sheer lunacy

The card sat on her desk unread for two weeks before her adventurous side took over and she said it might be worth looking into Those words to my male mind meant book the trip and we soon found ourselves winging northward swathed head to toe in the latest outdoor fashions part of a guided group of novice paddlers about to spend our first week ever in true wilderness

We had exactly one hour of instruction within the peaceful confines of a local marina about how to enter and exit a kayak

how to paddle forward backwards and most importantly what to do if we flipped our boat (Blow a whistle and yell like crazy) It did not add to our confidence that our guide looked like he had yet to shave and used words like ldquoDuderdquo and ldquoAwesomerdquo

With all that experience under our belt we went forth into the great blue unknown

My wife and I were in a tandem fibreglass kayak Irene in the front and me in the rear With the wind making me unable to hear her comments or she mine I understood immediately the guidersquos remark as to why they referred to tandem kayaks as ldquodivorce boatsrdquo

Within the first hour our marine radio crackled through the fog and a scratchy voice informed us that a pod of orcas was headed our way Our guide told us to raft up and if we were fortunate the whales just might pass close enough for us to get a good look

Then we saw the large black dorsal break the surface better than a quarter mile away but coming at us like a submarine periscope rising and falling

I did not know at the time that Orcinus orca the so-called killer whale belonging to the oceanic dolphin family could weigh as much as nine tons and can travel as fast at 50 kmh I also did not know it was one of a handful of toothed whales that ate flesh

Before that moment we were enjoying a truly exotic and unique vacation in which the very thought of encountering a whale had been only an abstract possibility Now even without the knowledge that this was the top predator of the entire world bearing down on us at full tilt we were truly terrified

u

Wildlife

Dancing with Dinosaurs

F

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

by James Michael Dorsey

Dancing with Dinosaurs

a naturalist reflects on achance encounter that changeD his life

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The whale was among our group in seconds surfacing just ahead of our lead boat For reasons I still do not remember and before terror replaced logic I took a quick photo with my old and trusty point and shoot camera (long before digital) It was like sitting on a railroad track waiting for a head-on collision

The orca dove under the first boat and surfaced directly in front of us its giant black head the size of Montana and its glistening dorsal towered over us like an enormous scythe I remember seeing its tiny black eye riveted on me as it rolled at the very last second so its dorsal would clear our keel and it passed directly beneath us close enough to touch

Watching that sleek black body and white saddle patch glide just under the surface is an image burned forever in my memory

I had never before been so close to a wild animal not even in a zoo For this to have occurred in the animalrsquos own habitat was at the time overwhelming I sat there silently searching for words to describe what I was feeling and nothing could express it

Neither my wife nor I realized at the time how our lives had been changed

For the rest of the week we saw no large whales only an occasional tiny minke and even then mostly just the sound of their blows as they slid past our nightly campfires as low silhouetted shadows skimming over the water just offshore

For both of us it was a week of revelation seeing the unsurpassed beauty

of British Columbia from the water silently gliding over a crystal clear littoral full of sea stars anemones and countless unidentifiable fish It was like being in our own giant aquarium We witnessed a pregnant deer swimming to a tiny rock island to have her foal away from prowling wolves we were stunned to see a full grown moose emerge from the water its antlers draped with watercress from feeding and countless harbor seals poke their head up huge black eyes taking a quick peek at us strange creatures before crash-diving in front of our bows

One day while rounding a rocky point we were faced with the rear of a black bear loudly defecating a massive amount of berries it had consumed It looked over its shoulder at our invasion grunted loudly and slowly waddled back into the forest as the stench of its breakfast wafted over our boats

We watched as eagles plucked fish from the water with their talons sometimes dropping them in the process and we even stole one for an eveningrsquos

dinner the fish stunned by its fall lying inert on the surface as we paddled by That initiated an hour of dive-bombing and name-calling by a very irate eagle who even after we floated the fish back to be picked up would not touch it after being handled by humans

We realized animals did not fear us because they simply were not used to seeing people in such a remote area and to them a kayak was nothing more than one more log a very frequent occurrence floating past

Most importantly it was the first week in my life that I heard no mechanical sounds and we both commented about how we felt our senses heightened our hearing more attuned to naturersquos tiniest intrusion and our vision more focused on searching for natural wonders than the mundane scenes of everyday city life

For us the path was clear There was no going back

Almost a year to the day of our first orca encounter I was paddling those familiar waterways with a friend because

Wildlife

Our relationship with whales is long and complex

The snapshot of the killer whale encounter that started it all for James Dorsey

Before there was myth and legend before the earth had yet to know man there were whales

The earliest known reference to whales appears in the Bible in Genesis 121 The reference is structured with a comma to differentiate between the creation of the oceans and the whale mentioning before any other species ldquoAnd God created the great whalesrdquo The term ldquogreatrdquo has long been thought by Biblical scholars to mean the blue whale the worldrsquos largest creature as the first animal to occupy the seas However there also exists today skeletal proof of land mammals archaeocetes that were the forefathers of todayrsquos modern whales ndash a link to their dinosaur past

The ancient oral histories of the Inuit and Inupiaq people of the far north tell of remarkable ocean-going craft made from whale bones and covered with the skin of seals or walruses thus linking man and whale since before recorded history

For uncounted millennia man and whale have traversed the seas together often trading places as victim or hunter and in recent memory as friends The Icelandic sagas refer to giant sea monsters spouting fire from the top of their heads while early sailors often referred to them as devil fish It is the most complex relationship between human and animal the world has ever known constantly evolving and surprising and the catalyst for this symbiotic relationship has long been the kayak

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

4 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Spring 2012 Volume 22 Number 1 PM No 41687515

A product of

Wild Coast Publishing

PO Box 24 Stn ANanaimo BC Canada V9R 5K4

Ph 1-866-984-6437 bull Fax 1-866-654-1937Email kayakcoastandkayakcomWebsite wwwcoastandkayakcom

copy 2012 Copyright is retained on all material (text photos and graphics) in this magazine No reproduction is allowed of any material in any form print or electronic for any purpose

except with the permission of Wild Coast Publishing

Some elements in maps in this magazine are reproduced with the permission of Natural Resources Canada 2010 courtesy of the Atlas of Canada Also our thanks to Geobase for some

elements that may appear on CoastampKayak maps

Advertising rates and submission guidelinesavailable at wwwcoastandkayakcom

subscribe$20 for 1 year ndash 4 issues

$35 for 2 years ndash 8 issues

While CoastampKayak Magazine is made available free subscriptions ensure the magazine is delivered to your home and that you will never miss an issue

To subscribe visit wwwcoastandkayakcomSubscribehtml

or call 1-866-984-6437

ISSUE ADDEADLINE DISTRIBUTION Spring2012 Jan27 Feb27 Summer2012 April27 May28 Fall2012 July2 Aug1 Winter2012 Oct1 Nov6

I expect of all the varieties of kayaking out there my particular style and niche is probably the most rare Irsquod categorize myself as a trekker I relish long-distance multi-day excursions covering as much area as possible

I suspect the most popular category is the rose-smeller or those who stop to smell the roses in the intertidal sense of the phrase daytrippers who use kayaks to explore bays and nooks and crannies and the rich intertidal life for which kayaks are supremely well suited No great energy need be expended nor miles logged nor any particular skills used which makes it so accessible These kayakers get all the benefits with very little in the way of investment or effort And thus the popularity

Some of those kayakers will probably graduate into other more defined styles of kayaking as they get better and seek out other ambitions I see my trekking as an outgrowth of rose-smelling as many miles may be involved but still kayaking over a long distance is slow enough and usually close enough to shore to allow careful investigation ndash just over a far greater and more varied environment It also allows you to smell roses in the most glorious wild and secluded locations some of which few people will ever get to visit amid a landscape and environment worlds away from where you started

Trekking isnrsquot for everyone Irsquove alienated friends and family by setting out on trips that were too ambitious and too demanding for their own interest Woe to the person who followed me as I said enthusiastically ldquoLetrsquos paddle to that island over thererdquo

There are the other niches in kayaking the obvious being surf or whitewater An emerging niche is the Greenland kayaker who follows the tradition set out generations ago by way of kayaks (qayaqs) paddles (pautiks) and skills (upside-down then back up again) Wersquore exploring that phenomenon a bit in this issue courtesy of Gerhardt Lepprsquos insights into his attraction to that niche I appreciate his comparison to Greenland kayakers being the punk rockers of kayaking Me I have no particular need to develop an arsenal of 23 types of Greenland rolls In fact to be a trekker you donrsquot need any particular skills in terms of performance I like to think trekking specializes in trip planning navigation and weather awareness in order to be comfortably self-reliant

The last bit is the true appeal of trekking After spending days in the wilderness with nothing more at your disposal than your own strength and abilities a sixth sense kicks in To me itrsquos developing a wonderful connectedness to nature ndash no longer being an observer but becoming as much a part of the environment as the birds and sea life around you That sense of belonging is an integral part of my enjoyment of kayaking and it is what keeps drawing me back to the water

What draws you The adrenaline of surf The satisfaction of learning a new roll The social milieu Or simply the enjoyment of an hour on the water It doesnrsquot matter

ndash itrsquos all part of the wide appeal of kayaking Enjoy the diverse options you have There is no wrong way to take part

- John Kimantaseditorcoastandkayakcom

Connecting by finding your niche

Coastampkayak maGaZINE is an independent magazine available free at hundreds of print distribution sites (paddling shops outdoor stores paddling clubs marinas events etc) and globally on the web Also available by paid subscription

Articles photos events news are all welcome

Find back issues articles events writers guidelines and advertising information online at coastandkayakcom

Cover Photo After logging thousands of miles along the BC coast we decided that Spring Island defines perfection ndash and to prove it we present an eight-page spread on this gem in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound

General queries kayakcoastandkayakcomEditorial editorcoastandkayakcomAdvertising kayakcoastandkayakcom

CoastampKayak Magazine is dedicated to making self-propelled coastal exploration fun and accessible Safety and travel

information is provided to augment pre-existing safety and knowledge A safety course and proper equipment are advised

before any exploration on water See a list of paddling instruction locations at wwwcoastandkayakcom

A full moon paddle to Whitesand Cove on Flores Island

Contact Us

The First Word

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 5

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

News

PassINGs u Eric soaresKayaker author active blogger and one

of the founders of the Tsunami Rangers Eric Soares passed away Feb 1 in hospital while awaiting surgery to correct injuries from a bad skiing fall at Lake Tahoe

Eric Soares was an ardent pioneer kayaker exploring the rough coastal waters of northern California and southern Oregon as early as 1983 He and Jim Kakuk founded the Tsunami Rangers in 1985 as a social group leading the way in surf cave and rock garden kayaking

Eric was also a contributor to CoastampKayak Magazine writing the Summer 2009 cover article The Tao of Kayaking He was author of Confessions of a Wave Warrior a look back at the history and antics of the Rangers His blog entries can still be read at the Tsunami Rangers website u wwwtsunamirangerscom

NEW RaCE u Paddle the EdgeIf the Round Bowen Challenge and Alert

Bay 360 has caught your interest for the mix of

social and racing skills add Paddle the Edge to the agenda

The new race will be held June 11 in Ucluelet Harbour the day after the Edge to Edge Marathon from Ucluelet to Tofino

The Paddle the Edge will be a three-hour race in sheltered waters designed for intermediate to expert paddlers For more event listings visit coastandkayakcomu infouclueletinfocom

CaNCELLED u PaddlefestAdd Vancouver Island Paddlefest to the list

of kayak events cancelled on the West Coast in the past few years

The Vancouver Island Paddlefest announced a one-year hiatus to develop a strategic plan and to refine their mandate after successive years of declining attendance

The society will be talking to volunteers and partners to develop a new mandate u wwwpaddlefestbcca

LoGGING u Flores IslandLogging company Iisaak Forest Resources

is seeking helicopter log-drop zones in preparation for heli-logging operations on Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound

The company has already received permits for some heli-drop zones and a road-building permit for reaching the pristine island forest Meanwhile environmental groups are hoping for alternatives including additional time to develop protection strategies including conservation financing

Groups working behind the scene include Friends of Clayoquot Sound and the Sierra Club of BC Clayoquot Sound was named a

United Nations Biosphere Reserve in 2000 but key areas remain unprotected If logged the Flores Island forest will leave just 20 of Vancouver Islandrsquos 282 major rainforest watersheds unlogged Six other unlogged watersheds have no protected status five of those are in Clayoquot Sound and include Flores Islandu wwwfocscau wwwsierraclubbcca

FoLDING kayaks u BorealDesignQuebec company BorealDesign has

filed for bankruptcy Manufacturer of 25 models of kayaks as well as the Beluga line of paddlesports gear and the Maelstrom brand of kayaks the company based out of St-Augustine-de-Desmaures left 45 out of worku wwwborealdesigncom

PLastIC kayaks u a recycled kindA group of young adults is planning

a plastic kayak marathon ndash but not in a rotomolded plastic boat

Rather theyrsquoll be creating a kayak constructed entirely from used plastic bottles then kayaking it 42 kilometres from Tenerife in the Canary Islands to Spainrsquos La Gomera Island as part of a fundraiseru theplasticmarathonwordpresscom

EXPEDItIoNs u tragedy successA trip to paddle from Argentina to the

Falkland Islands ended in tragedy as Alejandro Daniel Carranza 49 died after covering 800 km along the west coast of Tierra del Fuego Kayaking partner Juan Pablo Dacyszyn 36 made it to safety by swimming to Isla de los Estados off the southern tip of Argentina

phot

o su

bmitt

ed c

ourt

esy

Mic

hael

Pow

ers

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

Meanwhile in her solo trip around South America Freya Hoffmeister successfully transited the same shoreline then circumnavigated Cape Horn before turning up the east coast into the Strait of Magellan and Chilersquos Patagonia regionu qajaqundergroundcom

maRINE PaRk GUIDE u FundraiserBC Parks has found out the hard way itrsquos

not in the bookselling business and after finding itself with some surplus copies of the BC Marine Parks Guide the Official Guide to BCrsquos Coastal Marine Parks it has decided to make them available to the BC Marine Parks Forever Society

In turn the BC Marine Parks Forever Society is making the books available by donation All proceeds will go towards the development and enhancement of the BC marine park system (not to be confused with the BC Marine Trails system)

The full-colour guide book provides park-by-park descriptions with maps and photography The books will be available at chandlers and yacht clubs in BC for a minimum $10 donation

The society has played a financial role in the purchase of Musket Island Jedediah Island Waves Coke Alison Harbour as well as additions to Octopus Island Marine Park and Squitty Bay Marine Parku wwwmarineparksforeverca

WatER tRaILs u Cape BretonCoastal water trail research is continuing

this year in Cape Breton along the Atlantic coast The Canoe Kayak Nova Scotia project provides paddlers with launch site locations

and other touring information The coastal section most recently

completed is from the Canso Causeway past Sydney to Big Bras drsquoOr This will connect with water trail work done in 2009 around the Bras drsquoOr Lakes The new section is now online PRotECtIoN u sansum Point

The Land Conservancy is closer to its goal of raising $185 million for the 52ha property at Sansum Point off Sansum Narrows near Duncan BC after an anonymous $100000 donation in memory of UBC professor Cortlandt Mackenzie and his late wife Jean

The donation follows a fundraising campaign started last year to secure the property and just $380000 remains to be raised

Sansum Point is a landmark when navigating Sansum Narrows adjacent to Saltspring Island and is rich in Garry oak arbutus and its defining moss and lichen-covered rocks

The Cowichan Valley Regional District took ownership in September 2011 turning it into parkland

u blogconservancybcca

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

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Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

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woodboat_adqxpLayout 1 91610 123 PM Page 1

Kayak Repair amp Refit

bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

Vancouver Island South

2072 Henry Avenue WestSidney BC (250) 654-0052

Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash eight years of manufacturing and

repair experience

bull Keel Line Rebuildsbull Structural Repairs

Blackline_10WIindd 1 1072010 22232 PM

Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

BUY FACTORY DIRECT wwwnimbuspaddlescom infonimbuspaddlescom

designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

EW PEOPlE know at an early age which direction their life will take and I was no different

I was middle aged when I first entered the cockpit of a kayak and had no idea at the time I was also paddling into a world of awe and wonder that would connect me to whales in a way few have ever known

It began on a cold and gray morning typical of a British Columbia summer as we put in from Port Hardy on the northeastern flank of Vancouver Island Neither my wife nor I had ever been in a kayak before and we knew absolutely nothing about whales

It was our 25th wedding anniversary and our original plan had been to repeat our vows inside Parisrsquo Notre Dame Cathedral but somehow during the protracted process of paperwork and red tape I managed to enrage the vicar of Paris who summarily fired me as a possible candidate to be re-wed inside ldquohisrdquo cathedral probably making me unique in the history of weddings So on we went to Plan B based on a postcard received out of the blue from an outfitter that showed a man in a kayak paddling next to a killer whale

To me it seemed the most exotic adventure possible for a wedding anniversary but my wife looked at it as sheer lunacy

The card sat on her desk unread for two weeks before her adventurous side took over and she said it might be worth looking into Those words to my male mind meant book the trip and we soon found ourselves winging northward swathed head to toe in the latest outdoor fashions part of a guided group of novice paddlers about to spend our first week ever in true wilderness

We had exactly one hour of instruction within the peaceful confines of a local marina about how to enter and exit a kayak

how to paddle forward backwards and most importantly what to do if we flipped our boat (Blow a whistle and yell like crazy) It did not add to our confidence that our guide looked like he had yet to shave and used words like ldquoDuderdquo and ldquoAwesomerdquo

With all that experience under our belt we went forth into the great blue unknown

My wife and I were in a tandem fibreglass kayak Irene in the front and me in the rear With the wind making me unable to hear her comments or she mine I understood immediately the guidersquos remark as to why they referred to tandem kayaks as ldquodivorce boatsrdquo

Within the first hour our marine radio crackled through the fog and a scratchy voice informed us that a pod of orcas was headed our way Our guide told us to raft up and if we were fortunate the whales just might pass close enough for us to get a good look

Then we saw the large black dorsal break the surface better than a quarter mile away but coming at us like a submarine periscope rising and falling

I did not know at the time that Orcinus orca the so-called killer whale belonging to the oceanic dolphin family could weigh as much as nine tons and can travel as fast at 50 kmh I also did not know it was one of a handful of toothed whales that ate flesh

Before that moment we were enjoying a truly exotic and unique vacation in which the very thought of encountering a whale had been only an abstract possibility Now even without the knowledge that this was the top predator of the entire world bearing down on us at full tilt we were truly terrified

u

Wildlife

Dancing with Dinosaurs

F

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

by James Michael Dorsey

Dancing with Dinosaurs

a naturalist reflects on achance encounter that changeD his life

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The whale was among our group in seconds surfacing just ahead of our lead boat For reasons I still do not remember and before terror replaced logic I took a quick photo with my old and trusty point and shoot camera (long before digital) It was like sitting on a railroad track waiting for a head-on collision

The orca dove under the first boat and surfaced directly in front of us its giant black head the size of Montana and its glistening dorsal towered over us like an enormous scythe I remember seeing its tiny black eye riveted on me as it rolled at the very last second so its dorsal would clear our keel and it passed directly beneath us close enough to touch

Watching that sleek black body and white saddle patch glide just under the surface is an image burned forever in my memory

I had never before been so close to a wild animal not even in a zoo For this to have occurred in the animalrsquos own habitat was at the time overwhelming I sat there silently searching for words to describe what I was feeling and nothing could express it

Neither my wife nor I realized at the time how our lives had been changed

For the rest of the week we saw no large whales only an occasional tiny minke and even then mostly just the sound of their blows as they slid past our nightly campfires as low silhouetted shadows skimming over the water just offshore

For both of us it was a week of revelation seeing the unsurpassed beauty

of British Columbia from the water silently gliding over a crystal clear littoral full of sea stars anemones and countless unidentifiable fish It was like being in our own giant aquarium We witnessed a pregnant deer swimming to a tiny rock island to have her foal away from prowling wolves we were stunned to see a full grown moose emerge from the water its antlers draped with watercress from feeding and countless harbor seals poke their head up huge black eyes taking a quick peek at us strange creatures before crash-diving in front of our bows

One day while rounding a rocky point we were faced with the rear of a black bear loudly defecating a massive amount of berries it had consumed It looked over its shoulder at our invasion grunted loudly and slowly waddled back into the forest as the stench of its breakfast wafted over our boats

We watched as eagles plucked fish from the water with their talons sometimes dropping them in the process and we even stole one for an eveningrsquos

dinner the fish stunned by its fall lying inert on the surface as we paddled by That initiated an hour of dive-bombing and name-calling by a very irate eagle who even after we floated the fish back to be picked up would not touch it after being handled by humans

We realized animals did not fear us because they simply were not used to seeing people in such a remote area and to them a kayak was nothing more than one more log a very frequent occurrence floating past

Most importantly it was the first week in my life that I heard no mechanical sounds and we both commented about how we felt our senses heightened our hearing more attuned to naturersquos tiniest intrusion and our vision more focused on searching for natural wonders than the mundane scenes of everyday city life

For us the path was clear There was no going back

Almost a year to the day of our first orca encounter I was paddling those familiar waterways with a friend because

Wildlife

Our relationship with whales is long and complex

The snapshot of the killer whale encounter that started it all for James Dorsey

Before there was myth and legend before the earth had yet to know man there were whales

The earliest known reference to whales appears in the Bible in Genesis 121 The reference is structured with a comma to differentiate between the creation of the oceans and the whale mentioning before any other species ldquoAnd God created the great whalesrdquo The term ldquogreatrdquo has long been thought by Biblical scholars to mean the blue whale the worldrsquos largest creature as the first animal to occupy the seas However there also exists today skeletal proof of land mammals archaeocetes that were the forefathers of todayrsquos modern whales ndash a link to their dinosaur past

The ancient oral histories of the Inuit and Inupiaq people of the far north tell of remarkable ocean-going craft made from whale bones and covered with the skin of seals or walruses thus linking man and whale since before recorded history

For uncounted millennia man and whale have traversed the seas together often trading places as victim or hunter and in recent memory as friends The Icelandic sagas refer to giant sea monsters spouting fire from the top of their heads while early sailors often referred to them as devil fish It is the most complex relationship between human and animal the world has ever known constantly evolving and surprising and the catalyst for this symbiotic relationship has long been the kayak

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 5

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

News

PassINGs u Eric soaresKayaker author active blogger and one

of the founders of the Tsunami Rangers Eric Soares passed away Feb 1 in hospital while awaiting surgery to correct injuries from a bad skiing fall at Lake Tahoe

Eric Soares was an ardent pioneer kayaker exploring the rough coastal waters of northern California and southern Oregon as early as 1983 He and Jim Kakuk founded the Tsunami Rangers in 1985 as a social group leading the way in surf cave and rock garden kayaking

Eric was also a contributor to CoastampKayak Magazine writing the Summer 2009 cover article The Tao of Kayaking He was author of Confessions of a Wave Warrior a look back at the history and antics of the Rangers His blog entries can still be read at the Tsunami Rangers website u wwwtsunamirangerscom

NEW RaCE u Paddle the EdgeIf the Round Bowen Challenge and Alert

Bay 360 has caught your interest for the mix of

social and racing skills add Paddle the Edge to the agenda

The new race will be held June 11 in Ucluelet Harbour the day after the Edge to Edge Marathon from Ucluelet to Tofino

The Paddle the Edge will be a three-hour race in sheltered waters designed for intermediate to expert paddlers For more event listings visit coastandkayakcomu infouclueletinfocom

CaNCELLED u PaddlefestAdd Vancouver Island Paddlefest to the list

of kayak events cancelled on the West Coast in the past few years

The Vancouver Island Paddlefest announced a one-year hiatus to develop a strategic plan and to refine their mandate after successive years of declining attendance

The society will be talking to volunteers and partners to develop a new mandate u wwwpaddlefestbcca

LoGGING u Flores IslandLogging company Iisaak Forest Resources

is seeking helicopter log-drop zones in preparation for heli-logging operations on Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound

The company has already received permits for some heli-drop zones and a road-building permit for reaching the pristine island forest Meanwhile environmental groups are hoping for alternatives including additional time to develop protection strategies including conservation financing

Groups working behind the scene include Friends of Clayoquot Sound and the Sierra Club of BC Clayoquot Sound was named a

United Nations Biosphere Reserve in 2000 but key areas remain unprotected If logged the Flores Island forest will leave just 20 of Vancouver Islandrsquos 282 major rainforest watersheds unlogged Six other unlogged watersheds have no protected status five of those are in Clayoquot Sound and include Flores Islandu wwwfocscau wwwsierraclubbcca

FoLDING kayaks u BorealDesignQuebec company BorealDesign has

filed for bankruptcy Manufacturer of 25 models of kayaks as well as the Beluga line of paddlesports gear and the Maelstrom brand of kayaks the company based out of St-Augustine-de-Desmaures left 45 out of worku wwwborealdesigncom

PLastIC kayaks u a recycled kindA group of young adults is planning

a plastic kayak marathon ndash but not in a rotomolded plastic boat

Rather theyrsquoll be creating a kayak constructed entirely from used plastic bottles then kayaking it 42 kilometres from Tenerife in the Canary Islands to Spainrsquos La Gomera Island as part of a fundraiseru theplasticmarathonwordpresscom

EXPEDItIoNs u tragedy successA trip to paddle from Argentina to the

Falkland Islands ended in tragedy as Alejandro Daniel Carranza 49 died after covering 800 km along the west coast of Tierra del Fuego Kayaking partner Juan Pablo Dacyszyn 36 made it to safety by swimming to Isla de los Estados off the southern tip of Argentina

phot

o su

bmitt

ed c

ourt

esy

Mic

hael

Pow

ers

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

Meanwhile in her solo trip around South America Freya Hoffmeister successfully transited the same shoreline then circumnavigated Cape Horn before turning up the east coast into the Strait of Magellan and Chilersquos Patagonia regionu qajaqundergroundcom

maRINE PaRk GUIDE u FundraiserBC Parks has found out the hard way itrsquos

not in the bookselling business and after finding itself with some surplus copies of the BC Marine Parks Guide the Official Guide to BCrsquos Coastal Marine Parks it has decided to make them available to the BC Marine Parks Forever Society

In turn the BC Marine Parks Forever Society is making the books available by donation All proceeds will go towards the development and enhancement of the BC marine park system (not to be confused with the BC Marine Trails system)

The full-colour guide book provides park-by-park descriptions with maps and photography The books will be available at chandlers and yacht clubs in BC for a minimum $10 donation

The society has played a financial role in the purchase of Musket Island Jedediah Island Waves Coke Alison Harbour as well as additions to Octopus Island Marine Park and Squitty Bay Marine Parku wwwmarineparksforeverca

WatER tRaILs u Cape BretonCoastal water trail research is continuing

this year in Cape Breton along the Atlantic coast The Canoe Kayak Nova Scotia project provides paddlers with launch site locations

and other touring information The coastal section most recently

completed is from the Canso Causeway past Sydney to Big Bras drsquoOr This will connect with water trail work done in 2009 around the Bras drsquoOr Lakes The new section is now online PRotECtIoN u sansum Point

The Land Conservancy is closer to its goal of raising $185 million for the 52ha property at Sansum Point off Sansum Narrows near Duncan BC after an anonymous $100000 donation in memory of UBC professor Cortlandt Mackenzie and his late wife Jean

The donation follows a fundraising campaign started last year to secure the property and just $380000 remains to be raised

Sansum Point is a landmark when navigating Sansum Narrows adjacent to Saltspring Island and is rich in Garry oak arbutus and its defining moss and lichen-covered rocks

The Cowichan Valley Regional District took ownership in September 2011 turning it into parkland

u blogconservancybcca

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

EW PEOPlE know at an early age which direction their life will take and I was no different

I was middle aged when I first entered the cockpit of a kayak and had no idea at the time I was also paddling into a world of awe and wonder that would connect me to whales in a way few have ever known

It began on a cold and gray morning typical of a British Columbia summer as we put in from Port Hardy on the northeastern flank of Vancouver Island Neither my wife nor I had ever been in a kayak before and we knew absolutely nothing about whales

It was our 25th wedding anniversary and our original plan had been to repeat our vows inside Parisrsquo Notre Dame Cathedral but somehow during the protracted process of paperwork and red tape I managed to enrage the vicar of Paris who summarily fired me as a possible candidate to be re-wed inside ldquohisrdquo cathedral probably making me unique in the history of weddings So on we went to Plan B based on a postcard received out of the blue from an outfitter that showed a man in a kayak paddling next to a killer whale

To me it seemed the most exotic adventure possible for a wedding anniversary but my wife looked at it as sheer lunacy

The card sat on her desk unread for two weeks before her adventurous side took over and she said it might be worth looking into Those words to my male mind meant book the trip and we soon found ourselves winging northward swathed head to toe in the latest outdoor fashions part of a guided group of novice paddlers about to spend our first week ever in true wilderness

We had exactly one hour of instruction within the peaceful confines of a local marina about how to enter and exit a kayak

how to paddle forward backwards and most importantly what to do if we flipped our boat (Blow a whistle and yell like crazy) It did not add to our confidence that our guide looked like he had yet to shave and used words like ldquoDuderdquo and ldquoAwesomerdquo

With all that experience under our belt we went forth into the great blue unknown

My wife and I were in a tandem fibreglass kayak Irene in the front and me in the rear With the wind making me unable to hear her comments or she mine I understood immediately the guidersquos remark as to why they referred to tandem kayaks as ldquodivorce boatsrdquo

Within the first hour our marine radio crackled through the fog and a scratchy voice informed us that a pod of orcas was headed our way Our guide told us to raft up and if we were fortunate the whales just might pass close enough for us to get a good look

Then we saw the large black dorsal break the surface better than a quarter mile away but coming at us like a submarine periscope rising and falling

I did not know at the time that Orcinus orca the so-called killer whale belonging to the oceanic dolphin family could weigh as much as nine tons and can travel as fast at 50 kmh I also did not know it was one of a handful of toothed whales that ate flesh

Before that moment we were enjoying a truly exotic and unique vacation in which the very thought of encountering a whale had been only an abstract possibility Now even without the knowledge that this was the top predator of the entire world bearing down on us at full tilt we were truly terrified

u

Wildlife

Dancing with Dinosaurs

F

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

by James Michael Dorsey

Dancing with Dinosaurs

a naturalist reflects on achance encounter that changeD his life

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The whale was among our group in seconds surfacing just ahead of our lead boat For reasons I still do not remember and before terror replaced logic I took a quick photo with my old and trusty point and shoot camera (long before digital) It was like sitting on a railroad track waiting for a head-on collision

The orca dove under the first boat and surfaced directly in front of us its giant black head the size of Montana and its glistening dorsal towered over us like an enormous scythe I remember seeing its tiny black eye riveted on me as it rolled at the very last second so its dorsal would clear our keel and it passed directly beneath us close enough to touch

Watching that sleek black body and white saddle patch glide just under the surface is an image burned forever in my memory

I had never before been so close to a wild animal not even in a zoo For this to have occurred in the animalrsquos own habitat was at the time overwhelming I sat there silently searching for words to describe what I was feeling and nothing could express it

Neither my wife nor I realized at the time how our lives had been changed

For the rest of the week we saw no large whales only an occasional tiny minke and even then mostly just the sound of their blows as they slid past our nightly campfires as low silhouetted shadows skimming over the water just offshore

For both of us it was a week of revelation seeing the unsurpassed beauty

of British Columbia from the water silently gliding over a crystal clear littoral full of sea stars anemones and countless unidentifiable fish It was like being in our own giant aquarium We witnessed a pregnant deer swimming to a tiny rock island to have her foal away from prowling wolves we were stunned to see a full grown moose emerge from the water its antlers draped with watercress from feeding and countless harbor seals poke their head up huge black eyes taking a quick peek at us strange creatures before crash-diving in front of our bows

One day while rounding a rocky point we were faced with the rear of a black bear loudly defecating a massive amount of berries it had consumed It looked over its shoulder at our invasion grunted loudly and slowly waddled back into the forest as the stench of its breakfast wafted over our boats

We watched as eagles plucked fish from the water with their talons sometimes dropping them in the process and we even stole one for an eveningrsquos

dinner the fish stunned by its fall lying inert on the surface as we paddled by That initiated an hour of dive-bombing and name-calling by a very irate eagle who even after we floated the fish back to be picked up would not touch it after being handled by humans

We realized animals did not fear us because they simply were not used to seeing people in such a remote area and to them a kayak was nothing more than one more log a very frequent occurrence floating past

Most importantly it was the first week in my life that I heard no mechanical sounds and we both commented about how we felt our senses heightened our hearing more attuned to naturersquos tiniest intrusion and our vision more focused on searching for natural wonders than the mundane scenes of everyday city life

For us the path was clear There was no going back

Almost a year to the day of our first orca encounter I was paddling those familiar waterways with a friend because

Wildlife

Our relationship with whales is long and complex

The snapshot of the killer whale encounter that started it all for James Dorsey

Before there was myth and legend before the earth had yet to know man there were whales

The earliest known reference to whales appears in the Bible in Genesis 121 The reference is structured with a comma to differentiate between the creation of the oceans and the whale mentioning before any other species ldquoAnd God created the great whalesrdquo The term ldquogreatrdquo has long been thought by Biblical scholars to mean the blue whale the worldrsquos largest creature as the first animal to occupy the seas However there also exists today skeletal proof of land mammals archaeocetes that were the forefathers of todayrsquos modern whales ndash a link to their dinosaur past

The ancient oral histories of the Inuit and Inupiaq people of the far north tell of remarkable ocean-going craft made from whale bones and covered with the skin of seals or walruses thus linking man and whale since before recorded history

For uncounted millennia man and whale have traversed the seas together often trading places as victim or hunter and in recent memory as friends The Icelandic sagas refer to giant sea monsters spouting fire from the top of their heads while early sailors often referred to them as devil fish It is the most complex relationship between human and animal the world has ever known constantly evolving and surprising and the catalyst for this symbiotic relationship has long been the kayak

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

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Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

6 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

News

PassINGs u Eric soaresKayaker author active blogger and one

of the founders of the Tsunami Rangers Eric Soares passed away Feb 1 in hospital while awaiting surgery to correct injuries from a bad skiing fall at Lake Tahoe

Eric Soares was an ardent pioneer kayaker exploring the rough coastal waters of northern California and southern Oregon as early as 1983 He and Jim Kakuk founded the Tsunami Rangers in 1985 as a social group leading the way in surf cave and rock garden kayaking

Eric was also a contributor to CoastampKayak Magazine writing the Summer 2009 cover article The Tao of Kayaking He was author of Confessions of a Wave Warrior a look back at the history and antics of the Rangers His blog entries can still be read at the Tsunami Rangers website u wwwtsunamirangerscom

NEW RaCE u Paddle the EdgeIf the Round Bowen Challenge and Alert

Bay 360 has caught your interest for the mix of

social and racing skills add Paddle the Edge to the agenda

The new race will be held June 11 in Ucluelet Harbour the day after the Edge to Edge Marathon from Ucluelet to Tofino

The Paddle the Edge will be a three-hour race in sheltered waters designed for intermediate to expert paddlers For more event listings visit coastandkayakcomu infouclueletinfocom

CaNCELLED u PaddlefestAdd Vancouver Island Paddlefest to the list

of kayak events cancelled on the West Coast in the past few years

The Vancouver Island Paddlefest announced a one-year hiatus to develop a strategic plan and to refine their mandate after successive years of declining attendance

The society will be talking to volunteers and partners to develop a new mandate u wwwpaddlefestbcca

LoGGING u Flores IslandLogging company Iisaak Forest Resources

is seeking helicopter log-drop zones in preparation for heli-logging operations on Flores Island in Clayoquot Sound

The company has already received permits for some heli-drop zones and a road-building permit for reaching the pristine island forest Meanwhile environmental groups are hoping for alternatives including additional time to develop protection strategies including conservation financing

Groups working behind the scene include Friends of Clayoquot Sound and the Sierra Club of BC Clayoquot Sound was named a

United Nations Biosphere Reserve in 2000 but key areas remain unprotected If logged the Flores Island forest will leave just 20 of Vancouver Islandrsquos 282 major rainforest watersheds unlogged Six other unlogged watersheds have no protected status five of those are in Clayoquot Sound and include Flores Islandu wwwfocscau wwwsierraclubbcca

FoLDING kayaks u BorealDesignQuebec company BorealDesign has

filed for bankruptcy Manufacturer of 25 models of kayaks as well as the Beluga line of paddlesports gear and the Maelstrom brand of kayaks the company based out of St-Augustine-de-Desmaures left 45 out of worku wwwborealdesigncom

PLastIC kayaks u a recycled kindA group of young adults is planning

a plastic kayak marathon ndash but not in a rotomolded plastic boat

Rather theyrsquoll be creating a kayak constructed entirely from used plastic bottles then kayaking it 42 kilometres from Tenerife in the Canary Islands to Spainrsquos La Gomera Island as part of a fundraiseru theplasticmarathonwordpresscom

EXPEDItIoNs u tragedy successA trip to paddle from Argentina to the

Falkland Islands ended in tragedy as Alejandro Daniel Carranza 49 died after covering 800 km along the west coast of Tierra del Fuego Kayaking partner Juan Pablo Dacyszyn 36 made it to safety by swimming to Isla de los Estados off the southern tip of Argentina

phot

o su

bmitt

ed c

ourt

esy

Mic

hael

Pow

ers

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

Meanwhile in her solo trip around South America Freya Hoffmeister successfully transited the same shoreline then circumnavigated Cape Horn before turning up the east coast into the Strait of Magellan and Chilersquos Patagonia regionu qajaqundergroundcom

maRINE PaRk GUIDE u FundraiserBC Parks has found out the hard way itrsquos

not in the bookselling business and after finding itself with some surplus copies of the BC Marine Parks Guide the Official Guide to BCrsquos Coastal Marine Parks it has decided to make them available to the BC Marine Parks Forever Society

In turn the BC Marine Parks Forever Society is making the books available by donation All proceeds will go towards the development and enhancement of the BC marine park system (not to be confused with the BC Marine Trails system)

The full-colour guide book provides park-by-park descriptions with maps and photography The books will be available at chandlers and yacht clubs in BC for a minimum $10 donation

The society has played a financial role in the purchase of Musket Island Jedediah Island Waves Coke Alison Harbour as well as additions to Octopus Island Marine Park and Squitty Bay Marine Parku wwwmarineparksforeverca

WatER tRaILs u Cape BretonCoastal water trail research is continuing

this year in Cape Breton along the Atlantic coast The Canoe Kayak Nova Scotia project provides paddlers with launch site locations

and other touring information The coastal section most recently

completed is from the Canso Causeway past Sydney to Big Bras drsquoOr This will connect with water trail work done in 2009 around the Bras drsquoOr Lakes The new section is now online PRotECtIoN u sansum Point

The Land Conservancy is closer to its goal of raising $185 million for the 52ha property at Sansum Point off Sansum Narrows near Duncan BC after an anonymous $100000 donation in memory of UBC professor Cortlandt Mackenzie and his late wife Jean

The donation follows a fundraising campaign started last year to secure the property and just $380000 remains to be raised

Sansum Point is a landmark when navigating Sansum Narrows adjacent to Saltspring Island and is rich in Garry oak arbutus and its defining moss and lichen-covered rocks

The Cowichan Valley Regional District took ownership in September 2011 turning it into parkland

u blogconservancybcca

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

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Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

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Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash eight years of manufacturing and

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Go The Distance paddle with power and controlwith Canadian Hand Craftedhellip

BUY FACTORY DIRECT wwwnimbuspaddlescom infonimbuspaddlescom

designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

EW PEOPlE know at an early age which direction their life will take and I was no different

I was middle aged when I first entered the cockpit of a kayak and had no idea at the time I was also paddling into a world of awe and wonder that would connect me to whales in a way few have ever known

It began on a cold and gray morning typical of a British Columbia summer as we put in from Port Hardy on the northeastern flank of Vancouver Island Neither my wife nor I had ever been in a kayak before and we knew absolutely nothing about whales

It was our 25th wedding anniversary and our original plan had been to repeat our vows inside Parisrsquo Notre Dame Cathedral but somehow during the protracted process of paperwork and red tape I managed to enrage the vicar of Paris who summarily fired me as a possible candidate to be re-wed inside ldquohisrdquo cathedral probably making me unique in the history of weddings So on we went to Plan B based on a postcard received out of the blue from an outfitter that showed a man in a kayak paddling next to a killer whale

To me it seemed the most exotic adventure possible for a wedding anniversary but my wife looked at it as sheer lunacy

The card sat on her desk unread for two weeks before her adventurous side took over and she said it might be worth looking into Those words to my male mind meant book the trip and we soon found ourselves winging northward swathed head to toe in the latest outdoor fashions part of a guided group of novice paddlers about to spend our first week ever in true wilderness

We had exactly one hour of instruction within the peaceful confines of a local marina about how to enter and exit a kayak

how to paddle forward backwards and most importantly what to do if we flipped our boat (Blow a whistle and yell like crazy) It did not add to our confidence that our guide looked like he had yet to shave and used words like ldquoDuderdquo and ldquoAwesomerdquo

With all that experience under our belt we went forth into the great blue unknown

My wife and I were in a tandem fibreglass kayak Irene in the front and me in the rear With the wind making me unable to hear her comments or she mine I understood immediately the guidersquos remark as to why they referred to tandem kayaks as ldquodivorce boatsrdquo

Within the first hour our marine radio crackled through the fog and a scratchy voice informed us that a pod of orcas was headed our way Our guide told us to raft up and if we were fortunate the whales just might pass close enough for us to get a good look

Then we saw the large black dorsal break the surface better than a quarter mile away but coming at us like a submarine periscope rising and falling

I did not know at the time that Orcinus orca the so-called killer whale belonging to the oceanic dolphin family could weigh as much as nine tons and can travel as fast at 50 kmh I also did not know it was one of a handful of toothed whales that ate flesh

Before that moment we were enjoying a truly exotic and unique vacation in which the very thought of encountering a whale had been only an abstract possibility Now even without the knowledge that this was the top predator of the entire world bearing down on us at full tilt we were truly terrified

u

Wildlife

Dancing with Dinosaurs

F

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

by James Michael Dorsey

Dancing with Dinosaurs

a naturalist reflects on achance encounter that changeD his life

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The whale was among our group in seconds surfacing just ahead of our lead boat For reasons I still do not remember and before terror replaced logic I took a quick photo with my old and trusty point and shoot camera (long before digital) It was like sitting on a railroad track waiting for a head-on collision

The orca dove under the first boat and surfaced directly in front of us its giant black head the size of Montana and its glistening dorsal towered over us like an enormous scythe I remember seeing its tiny black eye riveted on me as it rolled at the very last second so its dorsal would clear our keel and it passed directly beneath us close enough to touch

Watching that sleek black body and white saddle patch glide just under the surface is an image burned forever in my memory

I had never before been so close to a wild animal not even in a zoo For this to have occurred in the animalrsquos own habitat was at the time overwhelming I sat there silently searching for words to describe what I was feeling and nothing could express it

Neither my wife nor I realized at the time how our lives had been changed

For the rest of the week we saw no large whales only an occasional tiny minke and even then mostly just the sound of their blows as they slid past our nightly campfires as low silhouetted shadows skimming over the water just offshore

For both of us it was a week of revelation seeing the unsurpassed beauty

of British Columbia from the water silently gliding over a crystal clear littoral full of sea stars anemones and countless unidentifiable fish It was like being in our own giant aquarium We witnessed a pregnant deer swimming to a tiny rock island to have her foal away from prowling wolves we were stunned to see a full grown moose emerge from the water its antlers draped with watercress from feeding and countless harbor seals poke their head up huge black eyes taking a quick peek at us strange creatures before crash-diving in front of our bows

One day while rounding a rocky point we were faced with the rear of a black bear loudly defecating a massive amount of berries it had consumed It looked over its shoulder at our invasion grunted loudly and slowly waddled back into the forest as the stench of its breakfast wafted over our boats

We watched as eagles plucked fish from the water with their talons sometimes dropping them in the process and we even stole one for an eveningrsquos

dinner the fish stunned by its fall lying inert on the surface as we paddled by That initiated an hour of dive-bombing and name-calling by a very irate eagle who even after we floated the fish back to be picked up would not touch it after being handled by humans

We realized animals did not fear us because they simply were not used to seeing people in such a remote area and to them a kayak was nothing more than one more log a very frequent occurrence floating past

Most importantly it was the first week in my life that I heard no mechanical sounds and we both commented about how we felt our senses heightened our hearing more attuned to naturersquos tiniest intrusion and our vision more focused on searching for natural wonders than the mundane scenes of everyday city life

For us the path was clear There was no going back

Almost a year to the day of our first orca encounter I was paddling those familiar waterways with a friend because

Wildlife

Our relationship with whales is long and complex

The snapshot of the killer whale encounter that started it all for James Dorsey

Before there was myth and legend before the earth had yet to know man there were whales

The earliest known reference to whales appears in the Bible in Genesis 121 The reference is structured with a comma to differentiate between the creation of the oceans and the whale mentioning before any other species ldquoAnd God created the great whalesrdquo The term ldquogreatrdquo has long been thought by Biblical scholars to mean the blue whale the worldrsquos largest creature as the first animal to occupy the seas However there also exists today skeletal proof of land mammals archaeocetes that were the forefathers of todayrsquos modern whales ndash a link to their dinosaur past

The ancient oral histories of the Inuit and Inupiaq people of the far north tell of remarkable ocean-going craft made from whale bones and covered with the skin of seals or walruses thus linking man and whale since before recorded history

For uncounted millennia man and whale have traversed the seas together often trading places as victim or hunter and in recent memory as friends The Icelandic sagas refer to giant sea monsters spouting fire from the top of their heads while early sailors often referred to them as devil fish It is the most complex relationship between human and animal the world has ever known constantly evolving and surprising and the catalyst for this symbiotic relationship has long been the kayak

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

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CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

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Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 7

Meanwhile in her solo trip around South America Freya Hoffmeister successfully transited the same shoreline then circumnavigated Cape Horn before turning up the east coast into the Strait of Magellan and Chilersquos Patagonia regionu qajaqundergroundcom

maRINE PaRk GUIDE u FundraiserBC Parks has found out the hard way itrsquos

not in the bookselling business and after finding itself with some surplus copies of the BC Marine Parks Guide the Official Guide to BCrsquos Coastal Marine Parks it has decided to make them available to the BC Marine Parks Forever Society

In turn the BC Marine Parks Forever Society is making the books available by donation All proceeds will go towards the development and enhancement of the BC marine park system (not to be confused with the BC Marine Trails system)

The full-colour guide book provides park-by-park descriptions with maps and photography The books will be available at chandlers and yacht clubs in BC for a minimum $10 donation

The society has played a financial role in the purchase of Musket Island Jedediah Island Waves Coke Alison Harbour as well as additions to Octopus Island Marine Park and Squitty Bay Marine Parku wwwmarineparksforeverca

WatER tRaILs u Cape BretonCoastal water trail research is continuing

this year in Cape Breton along the Atlantic coast The Canoe Kayak Nova Scotia project provides paddlers with launch site locations

and other touring information The coastal section most recently

completed is from the Canso Causeway past Sydney to Big Bras drsquoOr This will connect with water trail work done in 2009 around the Bras drsquoOr Lakes The new section is now online PRotECtIoN u sansum Point

The Land Conservancy is closer to its goal of raising $185 million for the 52ha property at Sansum Point off Sansum Narrows near Duncan BC after an anonymous $100000 donation in memory of UBC professor Cortlandt Mackenzie and his late wife Jean

The donation follows a fundraising campaign started last year to secure the property and just $380000 remains to be raised

Sansum Point is a landmark when navigating Sansum Narrows adjacent to Saltspring Island and is rich in Garry oak arbutus and its defining moss and lichen-covered rocks

The Cowichan Valley Regional District took ownership in September 2011 turning it into parkland

u blogconservancybcca

705-740-0470wwwbearmountainboatscom

Peterborough Canada

ALL full lengthbead amp cove strips

bullConvenient

international shipping

Experience the difference our quality makes

Instructions bull Plans bull MaterialsCanoe Kayak amp Small Boat Kits

Classes with Ted MooresWooden Boat Restoration

Custom Building

FEATURING

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bull Component Replacementsbull Gel Coat Refinishing

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Andrea Morrison

Meet Blacklinersquos kayak specialist ndash eight years of manufacturing and

repair experience

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designed for optimum lightness strength power and comfort

News

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

EW PEOPlE know at an early age which direction their life will take and I was no different

I was middle aged when I first entered the cockpit of a kayak and had no idea at the time I was also paddling into a world of awe and wonder that would connect me to whales in a way few have ever known

It began on a cold and gray morning typical of a British Columbia summer as we put in from Port Hardy on the northeastern flank of Vancouver Island Neither my wife nor I had ever been in a kayak before and we knew absolutely nothing about whales

It was our 25th wedding anniversary and our original plan had been to repeat our vows inside Parisrsquo Notre Dame Cathedral but somehow during the protracted process of paperwork and red tape I managed to enrage the vicar of Paris who summarily fired me as a possible candidate to be re-wed inside ldquohisrdquo cathedral probably making me unique in the history of weddings So on we went to Plan B based on a postcard received out of the blue from an outfitter that showed a man in a kayak paddling next to a killer whale

To me it seemed the most exotic adventure possible for a wedding anniversary but my wife looked at it as sheer lunacy

The card sat on her desk unread for two weeks before her adventurous side took over and she said it might be worth looking into Those words to my male mind meant book the trip and we soon found ourselves winging northward swathed head to toe in the latest outdoor fashions part of a guided group of novice paddlers about to spend our first week ever in true wilderness

We had exactly one hour of instruction within the peaceful confines of a local marina about how to enter and exit a kayak

how to paddle forward backwards and most importantly what to do if we flipped our boat (Blow a whistle and yell like crazy) It did not add to our confidence that our guide looked like he had yet to shave and used words like ldquoDuderdquo and ldquoAwesomerdquo

With all that experience under our belt we went forth into the great blue unknown

My wife and I were in a tandem fibreglass kayak Irene in the front and me in the rear With the wind making me unable to hear her comments or she mine I understood immediately the guidersquos remark as to why they referred to tandem kayaks as ldquodivorce boatsrdquo

Within the first hour our marine radio crackled through the fog and a scratchy voice informed us that a pod of orcas was headed our way Our guide told us to raft up and if we were fortunate the whales just might pass close enough for us to get a good look

Then we saw the large black dorsal break the surface better than a quarter mile away but coming at us like a submarine periscope rising and falling

I did not know at the time that Orcinus orca the so-called killer whale belonging to the oceanic dolphin family could weigh as much as nine tons and can travel as fast at 50 kmh I also did not know it was one of a handful of toothed whales that ate flesh

Before that moment we were enjoying a truly exotic and unique vacation in which the very thought of encountering a whale had been only an abstract possibility Now even without the knowledge that this was the top predator of the entire world bearing down on us at full tilt we were truly terrified

u

Wildlife

Dancing with Dinosaurs

F

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

by James Michael Dorsey

Dancing with Dinosaurs

a naturalist reflects on achance encounter that changeD his life

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The whale was among our group in seconds surfacing just ahead of our lead boat For reasons I still do not remember and before terror replaced logic I took a quick photo with my old and trusty point and shoot camera (long before digital) It was like sitting on a railroad track waiting for a head-on collision

The orca dove under the first boat and surfaced directly in front of us its giant black head the size of Montana and its glistening dorsal towered over us like an enormous scythe I remember seeing its tiny black eye riveted on me as it rolled at the very last second so its dorsal would clear our keel and it passed directly beneath us close enough to touch

Watching that sleek black body and white saddle patch glide just under the surface is an image burned forever in my memory

I had never before been so close to a wild animal not even in a zoo For this to have occurred in the animalrsquos own habitat was at the time overwhelming I sat there silently searching for words to describe what I was feeling and nothing could express it

Neither my wife nor I realized at the time how our lives had been changed

For the rest of the week we saw no large whales only an occasional tiny minke and even then mostly just the sound of their blows as they slid past our nightly campfires as low silhouetted shadows skimming over the water just offshore

For both of us it was a week of revelation seeing the unsurpassed beauty

of British Columbia from the water silently gliding over a crystal clear littoral full of sea stars anemones and countless unidentifiable fish It was like being in our own giant aquarium We witnessed a pregnant deer swimming to a tiny rock island to have her foal away from prowling wolves we were stunned to see a full grown moose emerge from the water its antlers draped with watercress from feeding and countless harbor seals poke their head up huge black eyes taking a quick peek at us strange creatures before crash-diving in front of our bows

One day while rounding a rocky point we were faced with the rear of a black bear loudly defecating a massive amount of berries it had consumed It looked over its shoulder at our invasion grunted loudly and slowly waddled back into the forest as the stench of its breakfast wafted over our boats

We watched as eagles plucked fish from the water with their talons sometimes dropping them in the process and we even stole one for an eveningrsquos

dinner the fish stunned by its fall lying inert on the surface as we paddled by That initiated an hour of dive-bombing and name-calling by a very irate eagle who even after we floated the fish back to be picked up would not touch it after being handled by humans

We realized animals did not fear us because they simply were not used to seeing people in such a remote area and to them a kayak was nothing more than one more log a very frequent occurrence floating past

Most importantly it was the first week in my life that I heard no mechanical sounds and we both commented about how we felt our senses heightened our hearing more attuned to naturersquos tiniest intrusion and our vision more focused on searching for natural wonders than the mundane scenes of everyday city life

For us the path was clear There was no going back

Almost a year to the day of our first orca encounter I was paddling those familiar waterways with a friend because

Wildlife

Our relationship with whales is long and complex

The snapshot of the killer whale encounter that started it all for James Dorsey

Before there was myth and legend before the earth had yet to know man there were whales

The earliest known reference to whales appears in the Bible in Genesis 121 The reference is structured with a comma to differentiate between the creation of the oceans and the whale mentioning before any other species ldquoAnd God created the great whalesrdquo The term ldquogreatrdquo has long been thought by Biblical scholars to mean the blue whale the worldrsquos largest creature as the first animal to occupy the seas However there also exists today skeletal proof of land mammals archaeocetes that were the forefathers of todayrsquos modern whales ndash a link to their dinosaur past

The ancient oral histories of the Inuit and Inupiaq people of the far north tell of remarkable ocean-going craft made from whale bones and covered with the skin of seals or walruses thus linking man and whale since before recorded history

For uncounted millennia man and whale have traversed the seas together often trading places as victim or hunter and in recent memory as friends The Icelandic sagas refer to giant sea monsters spouting fire from the top of their heads while early sailors often referred to them as devil fish It is the most complex relationship between human and animal the world has ever known constantly evolving and surprising and the catalyst for this symbiotic relationship has long been the kayak

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

EW PEOPlE know at an early age which direction their life will take and I was no different

I was middle aged when I first entered the cockpit of a kayak and had no idea at the time I was also paddling into a world of awe and wonder that would connect me to whales in a way few have ever known

It began on a cold and gray morning typical of a British Columbia summer as we put in from Port Hardy on the northeastern flank of Vancouver Island Neither my wife nor I had ever been in a kayak before and we knew absolutely nothing about whales

It was our 25th wedding anniversary and our original plan had been to repeat our vows inside Parisrsquo Notre Dame Cathedral but somehow during the protracted process of paperwork and red tape I managed to enrage the vicar of Paris who summarily fired me as a possible candidate to be re-wed inside ldquohisrdquo cathedral probably making me unique in the history of weddings So on we went to Plan B based on a postcard received out of the blue from an outfitter that showed a man in a kayak paddling next to a killer whale

To me it seemed the most exotic adventure possible for a wedding anniversary but my wife looked at it as sheer lunacy

The card sat on her desk unread for two weeks before her adventurous side took over and she said it might be worth looking into Those words to my male mind meant book the trip and we soon found ourselves winging northward swathed head to toe in the latest outdoor fashions part of a guided group of novice paddlers about to spend our first week ever in true wilderness

We had exactly one hour of instruction within the peaceful confines of a local marina about how to enter and exit a kayak

how to paddle forward backwards and most importantly what to do if we flipped our boat (Blow a whistle and yell like crazy) It did not add to our confidence that our guide looked like he had yet to shave and used words like ldquoDuderdquo and ldquoAwesomerdquo

With all that experience under our belt we went forth into the great blue unknown

My wife and I were in a tandem fibreglass kayak Irene in the front and me in the rear With the wind making me unable to hear her comments or she mine I understood immediately the guidersquos remark as to why they referred to tandem kayaks as ldquodivorce boatsrdquo

Within the first hour our marine radio crackled through the fog and a scratchy voice informed us that a pod of orcas was headed our way Our guide told us to raft up and if we were fortunate the whales just might pass close enough for us to get a good look

Then we saw the large black dorsal break the surface better than a quarter mile away but coming at us like a submarine periscope rising and falling

I did not know at the time that Orcinus orca the so-called killer whale belonging to the oceanic dolphin family could weigh as much as nine tons and can travel as fast at 50 kmh I also did not know it was one of a handful of toothed whales that ate flesh

Before that moment we were enjoying a truly exotic and unique vacation in which the very thought of encountering a whale had been only an abstract possibility Now even without the knowledge that this was the top predator of the entire world bearing down on us at full tilt we were truly terrified

u

Wildlife

Dancing with Dinosaurs

F

8 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

by James Michael Dorsey

Dancing with Dinosaurs

a naturalist reflects on achance encounter that changeD his life

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The whale was among our group in seconds surfacing just ahead of our lead boat For reasons I still do not remember and before terror replaced logic I took a quick photo with my old and trusty point and shoot camera (long before digital) It was like sitting on a railroad track waiting for a head-on collision

The orca dove under the first boat and surfaced directly in front of us its giant black head the size of Montana and its glistening dorsal towered over us like an enormous scythe I remember seeing its tiny black eye riveted on me as it rolled at the very last second so its dorsal would clear our keel and it passed directly beneath us close enough to touch

Watching that sleek black body and white saddle patch glide just under the surface is an image burned forever in my memory

I had never before been so close to a wild animal not even in a zoo For this to have occurred in the animalrsquos own habitat was at the time overwhelming I sat there silently searching for words to describe what I was feeling and nothing could express it

Neither my wife nor I realized at the time how our lives had been changed

For the rest of the week we saw no large whales only an occasional tiny minke and even then mostly just the sound of their blows as they slid past our nightly campfires as low silhouetted shadows skimming over the water just offshore

For both of us it was a week of revelation seeing the unsurpassed beauty

of British Columbia from the water silently gliding over a crystal clear littoral full of sea stars anemones and countless unidentifiable fish It was like being in our own giant aquarium We witnessed a pregnant deer swimming to a tiny rock island to have her foal away from prowling wolves we were stunned to see a full grown moose emerge from the water its antlers draped with watercress from feeding and countless harbor seals poke their head up huge black eyes taking a quick peek at us strange creatures before crash-diving in front of our bows

One day while rounding a rocky point we were faced with the rear of a black bear loudly defecating a massive amount of berries it had consumed It looked over its shoulder at our invasion grunted loudly and slowly waddled back into the forest as the stench of its breakfast wafted over our boats

We watched as eagles plucked fish from the water with their talons sometimes dropping them in the process and we even stole one for an eveningrsquos

dinner the fish stunned by its fall lying inert on the surface as we paddled by That initiated an hour of dive-bombing and name-calling by a very irate eagle who even after we floated the fish back to be picked up would not touch it after being handled by humans

We realized animals did not fear us because they simply were not used to seeing people in such a remote area and to them a kayak was nothing more than one more log a very frequent occurrence floating past

Most importantly it was the first week in my life that I heard no mechanical sounds and we both commented about how we felt our senses heightened our hearing more attuned to naturersquos tiniest intrusion and our vision more focused on searching for natural wonders than the mundane scenes of everyday city life

For us the path was clear There was no going back

Almost a year to the day of our first orca encounter I was paddling those familiar waterways with a friend because

Wildlife

Our relationship with whales is long and complex

The snapshot of the killer whale encounter that started it all for James Dorsey

Before there was myth and legend before the earth had yet to know man there were whales

The earliest known reference to whales appears in the Bible in Genesis 121 The reference is structured with a comma to differentiate between the creation of the oceans and the whale mentioning before any other species ldquoAnd God created the great whalesrdquo The term ldquogreatrdquo has long been thought by Biblical scholars to mean the blue whale the worldrsquos largest creature as the first animal to occupy the seas However there also exists today skeletal proof of land mammals archaeocetes that were the forefathers of todayrsquos modern whales ndash a link to their dinosaur past

The ancient oral histories of the Inuit and Inupiaq people of the far north tell of remarkable ocean-going craft made from whale bones and covered with the skin of seals or walruses thus linking man and whale since before recorded history

For uncounted millennia man and whale have traversed the seas together often trading places as victim or hunter and in recent memory as friends The Icelandic sagas refer to giant sea monsters spouting fire from the top of their heads while early sailors often referred to them as devil fish It is the most complex relationship between human and animal the world has ever known constantly evolving and surprising and the catalyst for this symbiotic relationship has long been the kayak

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

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CY

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

by James Michael Dorsey

Dancing with Dinosaurs

a naturalist reflects on achance encounter that changeD his life

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 9

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The whale was among our group in seconds surfacing just ahead of our lead boat For reasons I still do not remember and before terror replaced logic I took a quick photo with my old and trusty point and shoot camera (long before digital) It was like sitting on a railroad track waiting for a head-on collision

The orca dove under the first boat and surfaced directly in front of us its giant black head the size of Montana and its glistening dorsal towered over us like an enormous scythe I remember seeing its tiny black eye riveted on me as it rolled at the very last second so its dorsal would clear our keel and it passed directly beneath us close enough to touch

Watching that sleek black body and white saddle patch glide just under the surface is an image burned forever in my memory

I had never before been so close to a wild animal not even in a zoo For this to have occurred in the animalrsquos own habitat was at the time overwhelming I sat there silently searching for words to describe what I was feeling and nothing could express it

Neither my wife nor I realized at the time how our lives had been changed

For the rest of the week we saw no large whales only an occasional tiny minke and even then mostly just the sound of their blows as they slid past our nightly campfires as low silhouetted shadows skimming over the water just offshore

For both of us it was a week of revelation seeing the unsurpassed beauty

of British Columbia from the water silently gliding over a crystal clear littoral full of sea stars anemones and countless unidentifiable fish It was like being in our own giant aquarium We witnessed a pregnant deer swimming to a tiny rock island to have her foal away from prowling wolves we were stunned to see a full grown moose emerge from the water its antlers draped with watercress from feeding and countless harbor seals poke their head up huge black eyes taking a quick peek at us strange creatures before crash-diving in front of our bows

One day while rounding a rocky point we were faced with the rear of a black bear loudly defecating a massive amount of berries it had consumed It looked over its shoulder at our invasion grunted loudly and slowly waddled back into the forest as the stench of its breakfast wafted over our boats

We watched as eagles plucked fish from the water with their talons sometimes dropping them in the process and we even stole one for an eveningrsquos

dinner the fish stunned by its fall lying inert on the surface as we paddled by That initiated an hour of dive-bombing and name-calling by a very irate eagle who even after we floated the fish back to be picked up would not touch it after being handled by humans

We realized animals did not fear us because they simply were not used to seeing people in such a remote area and to them a kayak was nothing more than one more log a very frequent occurrence floating past

Most importantly it was the first week in my life that I heard no mechanical sounds and we both commented about how we felt our senses heightened our hearing more attuned to naturersquos tiniest intrusion and our vision more focused on searching for natural wonders than the mundane scenes of everyday city life

For us the path was clear There was no going back

Almost a year to the day of our first orca encounter I was paddling those familiar waterways with a friend because

Wildlife

Our relationship with whales is long and complex

The snapshot of the killer whale encounter that started it all for James Dorsey

Before there was myth and legend before the earth had yet to know man there were whales

The earliest known reference to whales appears in the Bible in Genesis 121 The reference is structured with a comma to differentiate between the creation of the oceans and the whale mentioning before any other species ldquoAnd God created the great whalesrdquo The term ldquogreatrdquo has long been thought by Biblical scholars to mean the blue whale the worldrsquos largest creature as the first animal to occupy the seas However there also exists today skeletal proof of land mammals archaeocetes that were the forefathers of todayrsquos modern whales ndash a link to their dinosaur past

The ancient oral histories of the Inuit and Inupiaq people of the far north tell of remarkable ocean-going craft made from whale bones and covered with the skin of seals or walruses thus linking man and whale since before recorded history

For uncounted millennia man and whale have traversed the seas together often trading places as victim or hunter and in recent memory as friends The Icelandic sagas refer to giant sea monsters spouting fire from the top of their heads while early sailors often referred to them as devil fish It is the most complex relationship between human and animal the world has ever known constantly evolving and surprising and the catalyst for this symbiotic relationship has long been the kayak

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

10 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The whale was among our group in seconds surfacing just ahead of our lead boat For reasons I still do not remember and before terror replaced logic I took a quick photo with my old and trusty point and shoot camera (long before digital) It was like sitting on a railroad track waiting for a head-on collision

The orca dove under the first boat and surfaced directly in front of us its giant black head the size of Montana and its glistening dorsal towered over us like an enormous scythe I remember seeing its tiny black eye riveted on me as it rolled at the very last second so its dorsal would clear our keel and it passed directly beneath us close enough to touch

Watching that sleek black body and white saddle patch glide just under the surface is an image burned forever in my memory

I had never before been so close to a wild animal not even in a zoo For this to have occurred in the animalrsquos own habitat was at the time overwhelming I sat there silently searching for words to describe what I was feeling and nothing could express it

Neither my wife nor I realized at the time how our lives had been changed

For the rest of the week we saw no large whales only an occasional tiny minke and even then mostly just the sound of their blows as they slid past our nightly campfires as low silhouetted shadows skimming over the water just offshore

For both of us it was a week of revelation seeing the unsurpassed beauty

of British Columbia from the water silently gliding over a crystal clear littoral full of sea stars anemones and countless unidentifiable fish It was like being in our own giant aquarium We witnessed a pregnant deer swimming to a tiny rock island to have her foal away from prowling wolves we were stunned to see a full grown moose emerge from the water its antlers draped with watercress from feeding and countless harbor seals poke their head up huge black eyes taking a quick peek at us strange creatures before crash-diving in front of our bows

One day while rounding a rocky point we were faced with the rear of a black bear loudly defecating a massive amount of berries it had consumed It looked over its shoulder at our invasion grunted loudly and slowly waddled back into the forest as the stench of its breakfast wafted over our boats

We watched as eagles plucked fish from the water with their talons sometimes dropping them in the process and we even stole one for an eveningrsquos

dinner the fish stunned by its fall lying inert on the surface as we paddled by That initiated an hour of dive-bombing and name-calling by a very irate eagle who even after we floated the fish back to be picked up would not touch it after being handled by humans

We realized animals did not fear us because they simply were not used to seeing people in such a remote area and to them a kayak was nothing more than one more log a very frequent occurrence floating past

Most importantly it was the first week in my life that I heard no mechanical sounds and we both commented about how we felt our senses heightened our hearing more attuned to naturersquos tiniest intrusion and our vision more focused on searching for natural wonders than the mundane scenes of everyday city life

For us the path was clear There was no going back

Almost a year to the day of our first orca encounter I was paddling those familiar waterways with a friend because

Wildlife

Our relationship with whales is long and complex

The snapshot of the killer whale encounter that started it all for James Dorsey

Before there was myth and legend before the earth had yet to know man there were whales

The earliest known reference to whales appears in the Bible in Genesis 121 The reference is structured with a comma to differentiate between the creation of the oceans and the whale mentioning before any other species ldquoAnd God created the great whalesrdquo The term ldquogreatrdquo has long been thought by Biblical scholars to mean the blue whale the worldrsquos largest creature as the first animal to occupy the seas However there also exists today skeletal proof of land mammals archaeocetes that were the forefathers of todayrsquos modern whales ndash a link to their dinosaur past

The ancient oral histories of the Inuit and Inupiaq people of the far north tell of remarkable ocean-going craft made from whale bones and covered with the skin of seals or walruses thus linking man and whale since before recorded history

For uncounted millennia man and whale have traversed the seas together often trading places as victim or hunter and in recent memory as friends The Icelandic sagas refer to giant sea monsters spouting fire from the top of their heads while early sailors often referred to them as devil fish It is the most complex relationship between human and animal the world has ever known constantly evolving and surprising and the catalyst for this symbiotic relationship has long been the kayak

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 11

Irene was unable to join me when I witnessed a site so extraordinary that I have been called a liar at worst and storyteller at best because I know of no one else who has ever experienced a similar event

The morning was a dull grey and drizzly as only Alaskan summers can be and the sky set the mood for what I was to witness

Fighting my way through bull kelp I heard the first blow A large bull led the way cruising through the mist like an apparition bearing a stillborn calf across his rostrum The calf still bright pink was slumped across the snout like a limp rag its head and flukes trailing under the surface

The bull moved slowly not blowing and five smaller whales followed in single order until they reached deep water in the centre of the channel The bull stopped holding his silent charge while the other whales formed around him The bull slowly lowered his head and the stillborn

whale sank into the depthsThe pain of their loss hung in the air

thicker than the fogAn old female most likely the

matriarch lob-tailed the water twice perhaps in silent goodbye or maybe just a signal that they were finished but as she did this all six orcas came abreast and sounded in unison They knew I was there and ignored me

That moment was a gift a point of connection between two species who share the planet yet rarely meet It was the silence of a kayak that allowed me to enter their world and whenever I do I feel the inferior one

From that moment it occurred to me that to an orca a kayak is nothing more than an errant log floating on the surface and as long as I sat perfectly still they could not distinguish me from my boat This knowledge allowed me unprecedented access to continue entering their world in ways most people will never get a chance lt

As a longtime contributor to Coastamp Kayak Magazine I have been given much latitude by each editor to write stories that combine my two great passions whales and paddling

There are countless books in print about both whales and kayaking but I have never found one that combines the two into stories of close personal encounters

I have been blessed with a life that has merged these two pursuits and given a great opportunity by editor John

About the author

P r o u d l y C a n a d i a n

-XCrystal

Touring Whitewater Recreational

A now-familiar image of a pod of killer whales moving through the water

Kimantas to serialize what I hope will become a full length book that I am tentatively calling Dancing With Dinosaurs a naturalistrsquos 15-year odyssey of kayaking among whales I am proud and humbled to have it premiere here in CoastampKayak

ndash James Dorsey

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

bull Spring Island Kyuquot bull SGang Gwaay Haida Gwaiibull Nuchatlitz Provincial Park Nootka Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

Haida Gwaii

Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Barkley SoundBroken Group IslandsSouth Gulf Islands

North Gulf IslandsNootka Sound

Kyuquot Sound

12 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

BC trip planner Spring 2012

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

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Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

Where are you going this summer Let us help you find the way with a catalogue of hot spots trip suggestions and travel tips

bull Sidney Spit Gulf Islands National Parkbull Drumbeg Park Gabriola Island bull Desolation Sound

Destinations British Columbia 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 13

BC trip planner Spring 2012

One of the nicest views anywhere on the BC

coast to take a moment to reflect on a sunny day

is Spring Island in the Mission Group This view

meant a 6-metre clamber up an intertidal rock

to a lookout point over Brooks Peninsula Well

worth the effort

Map

and

pho

tos

from

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The perfect islandCan there really be a perfect island

Of course not But after a few years spent island-hopping around the British Columbia coast one location stands out as the prettiest most diverse and most appealing island so much so that it was hard to narrow down the best photos to fit into this feature

Destinations Kyuquot SoundM

ap a

nd p

hoto

s fro

m B

C Co

ast E

xplo

rer V

ol 1

W

ild C

oast

Pub

lishi

ng P

re-o

rder

at c

oast

andk

ayak

com

14 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

The perfect islandSpring Island The Mission GroupKyuquot Sound

Main photo The viewscape north towards the Bunsby Islands Top left a small sea arch amid the ocean drama on the north beach Lower left one of the many sea stacks dotting the Spring Island shoreline

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 15

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

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Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

What makes a perfect island Your own particular experiences and expectations naturally but there are several universal factors necessary to claim any single island as the ldquobestrdquo

For instance the island must have ideal wilderness camping options sandy beaches breathtaking views and sheltered water for easy landings

It should have abundant diversity great shoreline for strolls old-growth forest for hikes plus cliffs reefs sea stacks and oh maybe a smattering of sea caves Throw in rock gardens for the adventurous with serene channels for those seeking relaxation Maybe whales and some cute little furry sea otters for fun

Some interesting history wouldnrsquot hurt either of course

Spring Island in the Mission Group off Kyuquot Sound offers all this and a bit more ndash such as rock scrambles to great lookouts saltwater rock basins for soaking in comfort and how about a paddle-through surf-landing sea arch It may be the only one on the coast

This island may not be on everyonersquos favorite list especially for those who have been stuck here when an unseasonal storm rages through (or worse stormfront upon stormfront) But chances are a lot of visitors have only scratched the surface of what Spring Island has to offer For instance if you

missed the side trail that leads to the beach that leads to the north end of the island well you really donrsquot know Spring Island then

No doubt visitors can get lulled into comfort at the main campsite (pictured above) and donrsquot bother to look for treasures elsewhere After all there is a sense of having truly arrived when you get here the perfect little cove as you paddle in the sand the choice of campsites the spectacular vistas the whole range of things to see and do just in this one small area The biggest issue is whether to sit facing Kyuquot Sound or Brooks Peninsula Dilemmas like these are just one more reason to visit here

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

16 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

Above camping on the main beach facing toward Kyuquot Sound on Spring Islandrsquos southern tip Top right one of the monster

trees to be found on one of the many trails that crisscross

the island Bottom right A wave washes back down the

beach after breaking through a sea arch set on the shore on

the north end of the island

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 17

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

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Ventu

resCoast

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

18 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 19

Plan your trip Kyuquot

Spring I

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park

Nootka Island

Nootka Sound

Cape Scott

Kyuquot Sound

BrooksPeninsula

QuatsinoSound

If you goaccess Two launches in Kyuquot Sound offer the best access with a

five- to six-hour paddle to reach the Mission Group Islands Both launches require a rough logging road drive Fair Harbour is reached by driving through and past Zeballos Artlish River is a bit more convoluted take the same route to Zeballos but turn off the Zeballos Road at about 96 km an intersection at the south end of Mukwilla Lake on the Atluck Main Head generally south then west for another 31 km before reaching the launch

services The village of Kyuquot is tucked into the lee of Walters Island facing Vancouver Island Here yoursquoll find a store open only occasionally and some accommodation options Sea Otter Lodge (see below) specializes in catering to kayakers On Spring Island West Coast Expeditions hosts an upscale base camp for its tours and can arrange a water taxi for self-directed visitors See below for contact information

Left A morningrsquos paddle along the south side of Spring Island with Union Island Rugged Point Remarkable Cone Eliza Dome and finally Nootka Island in the distanceBottom left cruising through the Mission Group with Spring Island and Mount Paxton in the background

Destinations Kyuquot Sound

bckayakingcom1-800-665-3040helliptruly get away

Base Camp Comfortsamp Expedition Kayaking

40 Years of Kyuquot Bunsby amp Brooks Tours

Connect bull Experience bull Refresh

Paddle amp Explore KyuquotYou are invited to a very special adventure

West Coast Lodge - Private IslandMinutes from Spring amp Mission Islands

Amazing Adventures Await

18889206075 infoseaotterlodgebccomwwwseaotterlodgebccom

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

20 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

A passion for SGang Gwaay

Destinations Haida Gwaii

BarB Wilson got her first glimpse of SGang Gwaay in 1974 long before thought was given to

making it part of a national park reserve At the time a television broadcaster thought it interesting that her two-year-old son was born a Haida hereditary chief As part of documenting the Haida culture he decided to fly the two to the historic village site on the very southern end of Haida Gwaii

They landed in the cove outside the village and motored in

ldquoIt was amazing It still catches my breath when I think of the impact of going into that little bayrdquo she recalls

ldquoIt was like going into another world It was quite an eye-opening that this was still left of what my ancestors had builtrdquo

The magic of that experience has never faded In fact on occasions it has become truly magical

ldquoI donrsquot know how you can explain it but when you walk into the village you can feel a presence and yet you canrsquot see it with your eyes You could say you see it with

your soul You can feel it Itrsquos a place that has some specialness outside physical things that you can seerdquo she says

ldquoA few years ago just as an example I was working with some young people clipping the tops of the poles removing the salal and everything It was in the evening just before sundown in the middle of summer and I was holding the bottom of the ladder

ldquoAll of a sudden we could hear drums playing I thought no Irsquom imagining it I said to the young man lsquoCan yoursquo and he said

lsquohear the drumsrsquo So we both heard it Irsquove had other experiences like that not quite so profound but very similarrdquo

Barb has been the cultural liaison specialist with Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve since 1996 and other capacities prior to that since before the park reserversquos opening so has logged years of caring for the SGang Gwaay poles as best as they are able Itrsquos an assignment that has its limitations given the Haida belief to let the poles return to nature

ldquoIn 1995 the hereditary leaders were taken down there by myself and the

manager to look over the village site as it is today and ask if we could conserve the poles a little more deliberately and they asked us not to use chemicalsrdquo

Care has always been an issue with the poles with one intrusive project in 1957 involving removing many of the best samples to place in museums

The current strategy is to simply clip back growth and do minimal maintenance though Barb hopes something is done to protect the UNESCO world heritage site

Repatriating the poles taken from SGang Gwaay isnrsquot a likely option

ldquoI wouldnrsquot want the originals back on the land as I see the old ones fall apart and go back to the land and therersquos a sadness I feel about that happening At the same time I understand if we want the earth to be enriched something has to go back to rejuvenate it

ldquoItrsquos a conundrum for me because I understand the philosophy of things going back to the earth but I also am trained as a conservator so it makes it difficult Itrsquos hard to know what to do and which values have more valuerdquo

The UNESCO designation is an incentive to do something Barb says

ldquoIt makes you think we have something really valuable and we need to look after it to make sure itrsquos there for future

Barb Wilson

Jaso

n Sh

afto

n ph

otoD

rue

Kend

rick

phot

o

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

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K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 21

Plan your trip Haida Gwaii

Destinations Haida Gwaii

wwwqueencharlottekayakingcomanvilcovehaidagwaiinet 2505598207

anvil cove chartersKayak Mothership tours of Haida GwaiiQueen Charlotte Islands

wwwTourHaidaGwaiicom 1-888-559-8317

GwaiiHaanas PlaceofWonder

HAIDA NATION

Reserve and Haida Heritage Siteparkscanadagcca

Reacuteserve de parc national reacuteserve drsquoaire marine nationale de conservationet site du patrimoine haiumlda Gwaii Haanasparcscanadagcca

National Marine Conservation Area Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

Real Inspiring

Unique Vraiment

We all have skyscrapers Come see ours Agrave chacun ses gratte-ciel

Venez voir les nocirctres

1-877-559-8818

ldquoLocal outfitter providing guided multi-day kayak adventures in Gwaii Haanas since 2000 Leaders in inclusionary and

educational kayak tours Eight-day trips from CDN $1655

gckayakingcompaddlegckayakingcomphone 250-557-4562

generations but with this kind of medium thatrsquos not possible unless we repatriate or reproducerdquo

The latter may be possible as Parks Canada has commissioned one pole to be carved that will likely be placed in Skidegate But there are no current plans for more pole replacements

For Barb much of the power of the poles is the representation they present for the lasting Haida culture As the Haida culture has survived diseases social breakdowns through the likes of residential schools and cultural displacement including moving communities from traditional lands the poles have survived weather climate change and removal

ldquoWhat Irsquom proud of probably more than anything is that it survivedrdquo Barb says

With that remains their simple powerful presence

ldquoI donrsquot know how to explain it except if you experience it you never forget My first trip there is as vivid as my last trip thererdquo

ndash CoastampKayak Magazine photos courtesy Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve

sGang Gwaay

skidegate

Prince Rupert

Rebe

cca

Cum

min

g ph

oto

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

22 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Plan your trip Broken GroupBarkley Sound

Broken Group Islands classic kayak cruising

Closest accommodations to the Broken Group Islands bull A relaxing

interesting and affordable retreat in a wilderness setting bull Kayak rentals and

water taxi serviceswwwladyrosemarinecom

Email ladyrosemarinetelusnet250-723-8313 1-800-663-7192 April-Sept

SECHART LODGE

1-8

00-8

89-7

644

majestic

oceankayakingcom

A friendly seaside retreat Enjoy the west coast in comfort Ideal lodging for kayakers who can launch into Barkley Sound Or relax and enjoy old growth cedars bald eagles and sea lions

Hundreds of islands to explore on the west coast of Vancouver Island Barkley Sound Pacific Rim National Park and Clayoquot Sound Our professionally guided tours include transportation gourmet meals and superior quality equipment

wwwoceankayakingcom1183 Helen Road Uclueletwwwmajesticoceanbbca

Destinations Broken GroupBarkley Sound

The original West Coast kayaking destination the Broken Group Islands first became popular after the designation as a key component of the Pacific Rim National Park in 1970 (later proclaimed the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in 2001) The new use of the term lsquoreserversquo is an acknowledgement of outstanding rights or interests by First Nations and is reflected in the closing of the Benson Island campsite in 2009 Benson Island is considered the birthplace of the Tseshaht and was home to a major village site even though the island was pre-empted as private property in 1893 by the namesake John W Benson and site of a hotel till 1922 While the campsite is now closed the seven others in the Broken Group remain open and Benson Island can still be visited during the day ndash a perfect spot to reflect upon the history of this unique archipelago

If you goaccess Most trips begin from

Toquart Bay with Ucluelet a nearby base with full services and options including day trips as well as a more open-water route to the Broken Group Islands Ferry service with kayak launch is available via the MV Frances Barkley from Port Alberni

Wersquove got the maps

bull Large format WATERPROOFbull Compatible with new BC Coast

Explorer guide books bull New for 2012 bull ClayoquotNootka bull Broken Group

bull Desolation SoundDiscovery Islandswwwcoastandkayakcom

NEW lsquoBC COAST EXPLORERrsquo MAP SERIES

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 23

Plan your trip Nootka Sound

The undiscovered side of Nuchatlitz

Nuchatlitz Provincial Park in Nootka Sound is one of the fastest-growing kayaking destinations in British Columbia offering an array of islands in a serene but magnificent setting on the edge of incredible destinations to explore particularly Nuchatlitz Inlet The most popular kayaking campsites are invariably in the island clusters on the parkrsquos north side Our advice look to the south On a run through these islands this past summer we found all campers either at Benson Point in Nuchatlitz Inlet or in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park at Wy-ash or Rosa Island

Meanwhile we found three islands on the parkrsquos south side completely deserted All had spectacular little beaches unbeatable views and good high tide clearance for those pesky spring tides Two are pictured here Where else can you enjoy your own island in the peak of summer Theyrsquore still around even at relatively busy Nuchatlitz

trip planning advice

Left The location of three newly inventoried spots in Nuchatlitz Provincial Park near Ensanada Islet far left The campsite beach north of Ensanada Islet above the view from the westernmost of the three lower campsites looking north through Nuchatlitz

If you goaccess Self-directed trips are best

planned from Tahsis via Little Espinosa Inlet while water taxis and other services are available from Tahsis or Zeballos Plan for at least five hours of driving to either location from the ferry terminal in Nanaimo or seven hours from Victoria

Destinations Nootka Sound

1-866-222-2235zeballosexpeditionscominfozeballosexpeditionscom

Paddle with sea ottersKayak transport between Zeballos and Nootka Island Nuchatlitz Park and Friendly Cove Kayak rentals

CEDARS INN rooms amp restaurant in a historic Zeballos lodge Good food friendly service

Nootka transport amp rentals

Transport to Nuchatlitz Park Yuquot (Friendly Cove) Bligh Island Marine Park

and beyond

wwwtahtsadivecharterscomdivetahtsadivecharterscom1-866-934-6365 Kayak rentals

Map

and

pho

tos f

rom

BC

Coas

t Exp

lore

r Vol

1

Wild

Coa

st P

ublis

hing

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

24 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

wwwsilvabaykayakingcom

250-247-8939

Custom kayak tours beginner lessons kids campsgourmet beach picnics kayaking and yoga and sunset paddles

SEALEGS KAYAKINGand Marine Adventures

Kayak amp SUP SalesLessons Rentals Tours

SnorkelingTransport amp Taxi Service

wwwSealegsKayakingcom1-877-KAYAK BC

Plan your trip Gabriola and Gulf Islands North

Gabriola Island the most northerly of the Gulf Islands off southeast Vancouver Island is blessed with three provincial parks and of those Drumbeg Provincial Park probably best represents the Garry oak and coastal bluff vegetation that defines the Gulf

Islandsrsquo ecology The park protects only a kilometre of shoreline but within it are Douglas-fir arbutus and open grass meadows over sandstone shoreline Itrsquos a slice of Gabriola Island at its most natural in a setting overlooking the mainland BC mountains as

well as Gabriola Passage a waterway with currents running as high as nine knots Kayakers can either enjoy that or avoid it with a launch possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay for explorations of the Flat Top Islands or other nearby attractions

If you goGabriola is serviced by a frequent

ferry while a route by kayak or boat is possible through Gabriola Passage from Cedar on Vancouver Island launching is possible from Drumbeg or nearby Silva Bay Camping is not allowed on Drumbeg but an islet nearby makes overnight trips possible

large-format full-colour maps Gulf Islands recreation maps

are available at better retailers everywhere or online at

coastandkayakcom

Drumbeg shows Gulf Islands shores at their bestgreat parks

Drumbeg Provincial Park

GabriolaIslandNanaimo

Cedar

transferBeach

Ladysmith

Get the map

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 25

Desolation 101 getting here is part of the funtrip planning advice

When heading to Desolation Sound many visitors may not realize that when they are cruising any one of the dozens of other neighbouring destinations in the region theyrsquove probably left Desolation Sound and instead are in the Discovery Islands

Quadra and Cortes are the two largest most accessible and best serviced of the Discovery group Desolation Sound is just to the south so these islands make great access points for trips to the sound and other nearby attractions also offering a full range of services in their rustic island charm

This creates the possibility of designing

a trip two different ways One is by arriving along the Sunshine Coast Highway via Powell River to Lund adjacent to Desolation Sound Provincial Park ndash the quickest route to the actual sound The other is via Vancouver Island to Campbell River then by ferry to either Quadra or Cortes islands

Both routes have advantages and disadvantages but either way yoursquoll be taking a ferry Or rather several ferries To begin your trip from Lund yoursquoll have to cross Jervis Inlet and Howe Sound That means two ferry trips

The other route involves getting to

Vancouver Island then either one ferry to Quadra Island and possibly another to Cortes if you launch from there

The bottom line is therersquos no wrong way to plan a trip here Just pick the route that sounds most interesting ndash and that could be the trickiest part

Plan your trip Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Destinations Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands

Mothership trips to Desolation Sound Discovery Islands Toba and Bute Inlets

bull Sail on a 43 ft schoonerbull Guided kayaking day trips instruction amp rentalsbull Kayak mothership tripsbull Natural and human history tours

Misty Isles AdventuresCortes Island Desolation Sound

wwwmistyislesadventurescom250-935-6756

Toll free 18885525558 Lund BC

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Instruction amp Leadership Programs

Kayak Tours Rentals amp TransportKayak Tours Rentals amp Transport

terracentricadventurescom

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

Maps Charts and Books

Waterfront location in Lund

If you goTiming is everything when taking

ferries Plan your trip at bcferriescom Reservations are recommended on the major routes (to Vancouver Island) especially on weekends or holidays Smaller ferries like those to and from Quadra donrsquot take reservations so avoid ferries such as early Mondays when commuters are likely to fill the limited number of spots for vehicles

The view from

the ferry crossing How

e Sound

Howe sound

JervisInlet

Desolation sound

Lund

Quadra

Cortes

Powell River

VancouverNanaimo

CampbellRiver

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

26 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Destinations South Gulf Islands

Victoria kayakers have to be among the luckiest urban paddlers anywhere Picture being able to launch from just about any waterfront park in the region and take your pick of any one of a dozen prime destinations all within a few hoursrsquo paddle Go for a picnic stay overnight or to travel for a week or more

Sidney Spit is one of these exceptional destinations about an hourrsquos paddle from a launch in Sidney just north of Victoria or if you prefer a simpler trip by walk-on ferry during season The mix of paddlers hikers and boaters makes this an eclectic destination not the most secluded but certainly exceptional for what it offers so near to an urban triangle of millions of people Even visitors from Seattle will find this a simple destination by taking the ferry from Anacortes to Sidney then launching from Tulista Park immediately south of the Sidney ferry terminal

Sidney Spit formerly a provincial park and now part of the Gulf Islands

sidney spit

sidney Island

JamesIsland

tulistaPark

sidneyReflecting on a summerrsquos sunset next to the Sidney Spit lagoon

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 27

National Park Reserve is most remarkable for the two long sandy spits that extend several kilometres off the north end of the island perfect for sunbathing beach walking and sandcastles These spits cap a tidal flat and salt marsh that is rich in seabird and marine life particularly heron To protect this area access even by kayaks is prohibited within the lagoon Kayakers can land at the sandy beach on the outskirts of the lagoon adjacent to the camping area with options for large groups Boaters can moor or use the dock Once on the island look for the bricks remnants of Sidney Tile and Brick company that operated here till 1915 and the bomb shelter for use when explosives were manufactured at nearby James Island

Plan your trip South Gulf Islands

Urban wildernessDestinations South Gulf Islands

Steps from National Seashore Bennett Bay and a kayakerrsquos paradise

cowichanbaykayakcom

Tours Expeditions Rentals Sales Lessons Shop

Just 45 minutes drive from Victoria on the lsquoGulf Islands Marine Trail Networkrsquo

Toll free 1-888-749-2333 wwwcowichanbaykayakcom

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

bull Daily Guided Tours amp Rentals since 1985bull Only 1 hr from Vancouverbull Ferry pick-up bull Open all year

Join us in Costa Rica weekly Dec-April since 1987

Eco Adventures in the Gulf Islands since 1991

Kayak Tours to Marine Parks amp Islets Expeditions Lessons amp Rentals

A Funky Outdoor SurfSkate Shop for Clothing amp Gear163 Fulford-Ganges Road escapadessaltspringcom

SKGABC Guide Courses Two Cozy Waterfront Accommodations

1-888-529-2567 250-537-2553 wwwislandescapadescom

0

5

25

75

95

100

PIKA_AD_Wavelengths

February-15-10 51631 PM

The main kayak beach looking towards the park dock the anchorage and Sidney

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

28 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

Packages include all meals and equipment as well as transportation in and out

per person taxes extra

Discover Yukonrsquos wildest spots with our adventure experts

Follow in the ghost-wake of stampeders explorers trappers and hunters Your knowledgeable guide will point out abandoned artifacts and unique natural features along the way and then top off your day with a gourmet meal plucked straight from these crystal-clear waters Write your own wild historic journey on a day trip or multi-day adventure

Find the right guide for you at yukonwildcom

BOAT THE YUKON7 days from $2100 Enjoy the history and mystery of the Yukon River from the comfort of a covered boat Camp by the river and listen for the ldquosongs of the sourdoughsrdquo as you make your way from Lake Laberge to the gold rush town of Dawson once called The Paris of the North

LUXURIOUS CABINS1 night from $150 Get a more comfortable taste of the last frontier in a cabin or lodge setting By day you can canoe kayak or fi sh the pristine northern waters then snuggle down for the night in a cozy bedroom loft that gives you a private viewing of this unspoiled world

CANOE THE YUKON7 days from $2040 Fall under the ldquoSpell of the Yukonrdquo on this exciting trip from Carmacks to Dawson including a stop at Fort Selkirk Old woodyard sites and abandoned roadhouses native fi sh camps and cabin relics are common along the shoremdashas are grizzly and black bears

Do ghosts mingle with grizzlies along the shores of some of Yukonrsquos rivers and lakes erersquos only one way to nd outmdashso letrsquos push o and explore

Your classic course for this adventure has to be the Yukon River e longest river in the territory it was also the main highway for the gold rush stampeders carrying thousands from the foot of the Chilkoot Trail to the mecca of Dawson City between 1896 and 1903

Letrsquos start where they started shall we As you enter the waters from the scrappy beach of Lake Bennett take a pause to appreciate your well-made canoe e majority of gold rushers would have built their own boats for the 500-mile ride to Dawson With the White Horse Rapids waiting for them just beyond the lake itrsquos no wonder these rough-and-(un)ready craft were called oating

co ns Some say the tormented souls of the unlucky ones still haunt the woods along this stretch Your experienced guide will ensure you get through without joining them

Now you pass on to Lake Laberge the site of the cremation of Sam McGee in Robert W Servicersquos famous poem Itrsquos a two to four day paddle to cross the whole lake which gives plenty of time to enjoy a meal of the delicious lake trout that live in these waters Keep a look out for moose too ey say there are two for every person in the Yukon

Here you are at the irty Milemdashperhaps the most ghostly part of the trip Pull over at Steamboat Island to hike past the remains of log cabins Mounted Police detachments old

telegraph stations and wood camps Touch history when you come to old paddle wheelers that were either shipwrecked or hauled up and abandoned over 80 years ago

Your nal ldquoghost townrdquo stop is Fort Selkirk which is also the halfway point to Dawson is once-vibrant trading community has been partially restored and today is visited mainly by canoeists like you

Quali ed out tters can lead you over the full stretch of the river Or

you can opt for daytrips that guide you over the highlights and bring you back to a cozy cabin or lodge for the night where the only spirits yoursquoll encounter are poured into a glass

Paddling Through Yukon History

Travel informationDaily ights land in Whitehorse from Vancouver and there is regular service from Edmonton and Calgary Average ight time 25 hours

Travel informationThe best time to plan your Yukon canoe trip is between May and September

Travel informationPack your sense of adventuremdashquali ed guides supply everything else

Experts know the BEST PADDLING SPOTS

Coast and Kayak Full Page mdash 8125rdquo x 1075rdquo + bleed February 01summer

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 29

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

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11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

wwwbarkleykayakcentrecom

Camping tours

Lodge based programs

5amp7 day toursin the BROKEN ISLANDS

Perfect as a base for up to 8 people Accessible by water only Protected dock minutes from the open Pacific

Large open plan on the main floor with 4 bdrms above 2 bdrms with queen beds

2 with twin beds Propane stove fridge andhot water Non-smoking wwwnuchatlitzislandcom

250-337-5180 doscott2000hotmailcom

Nuchatlitz Island 4 bdrm cabin in the Nuchatlitz Provincial

Park area of Nootka Island BC

othership Adventure

wwwmothershipadventurescom

Luxury Mothership Sea KayakingNatural History Cultural Historical Tours

Explore BCrsquos remote coastal wilderness in comfort and safety

Great Bear Rainforest ~ Broughton Archipelago ~ Desolation Sound

SM

BC Ferries port Gateway to Northern and Central BC Coast destinations Sales Rentals Lessons Trip planning 8625 Shipley Street (across from the Post Office) Port HardyPhone 250-949-7392 or cell 250-230-8318Email odysseyislandnetWeb wwwodysseykayakingcom

Odyssey Kayaking

An elegant yet casual inn with six individually-appointed ocean- or garden-view rooms Cozy common room and lovely grounds Full breakfast included in rates Visit our website for detailsWeb wwwsaturnacaEmail innkeepersaturnacaPhone 250-539-2254 or 1-866-539-2254

Saturna Lodge

Kayaking adventures in the Broken Group Clayoquot Sound Broughton Archipelago Kyuquot Sound Nootka Island and the Gulf Islands Unforgettable paddling and great people since 1995 See you on the waterPhone 250-247-0189Web wwwkayaktoursbccom

Gabriola Sea Kayaking

Saratoga Beach Black CreekAll inclusive Kayak ToursMorning afternoon and sunset PaddlesAsk us about our overnight kayak-camping specialLessons and RentalsPhone 18773375717Email infokayakvancouverislandcomWeb wwwkayakvancouverislandcom

Grey Wolf Expeditions

Destinations Various locations

Kayak-Friendly Accommodation

BROUGHTON ARCHIPELAGOca

250-230-0088

Floathouse Inn amp CabinWaterfront Cottage

Catered or KitchenettesKayak Tours amp Rentals

On-site MassageWater Taxi

PADDLERrsquoS INNca

~ Traditional cozy English-style accommodation~ Delectable breakfast queen beds shower ensuite~ Great paddling possibilities we are one block from sea front where

you can launch a kayak to paddle in Nanaimo Harbour Easy paddle to Newcastle and Protection Islands to walk swim or picnic

~ Close to downtown Nanaimo~ 10 minute walk to kayak rentals near Departure Bay

wwwcopperkettlebccom

465 Stewart AveNanaimo BC

V9S 4C7250-740-3977

1-877-740-3977

Copper Kettle Bed amp Breakfast

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

Costa riCaosa peninsula

wwwseakayakca 250-539-2442 kayakgulfislandscom

Our 25th year

7 days in paradise DecemberndashApril

Jan2012ad_outlinesindd 1 080112 1017 AM

Multi-Day Kayak Tours - Sea of Cortez- Loreto Baja Mexico

Toll Free 1-866-765-BAJA (2252) wwwbajakayakadventurescom

Paddle with us in the lsquoWorldrsquos Aquariumrsquo

Plan your trip Exotic destinations

almost a year ago noW the BC Marine Trails Network Association (BCMTNA) invited

paddlers and the public to join them at the Vancouver Island Paddlefest in Ladysmith to celebrate the grand opening of the BC Marine Trails Network Paddlers demonstrated their support that day by launching from various locations and paddling together across Ladysmith Harbour in a flotilla 100 strong (coined the lsquogreat floatzillarsquo) They were greeted and welcomed to land by the chief of the Stzrsquouminus First Nation It was an amazing day

So the question is of course what difference has the newly established BC Marine Trails Network made to people who tour the BC coastline by kayak or canoe

Visibly to the paddler on the water very little yet Some signs denoting BCMTN launch sites and campsites will be appearing this spring with the first ones at marine parks and community campsites

Then therersquos the not-yet-visibleWithin the West Coast Vancouver Island

North Marine Trails upwards of 22 sites located on Crown land that were previously not secured are now going through the process (some completed) of becoming lsquoBC Marine Trails Recreation Sitesrsquo

Within the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network BC Parks is working to develop additional marine campsites Municipalities and regional districts are adding BCMTN

signs and amenities such as toilets and overnight parking to launch sites They are also looking at allowing camping within a number of regional district parks with marine accesses Some of these will become BCMTN sites

Upcoming this spring there will be a few select commercial campsites on-the-water BampBs and resorts which will gain site status on the BCMTN map These additions will fill in gaps where government sites are in short supply and give paddlers not so happy about lsquoroughing itrsquo more options

In general since the grand opening the BC Marine Trails Network Association has become a stronger more credible advocate for strategic and desirable camping opportunities for paddlers and small boat users along the BC coastline It is involved in ongoing consultations with BC Parks regarding locations and new additions to camping opportunities within parks and

conservancies along the coastline of BC Communities are working actively with us to develop further opportunities It also continues to partner closely with Recreation Sites and Trails BC to develop further marine trails sections This partnership is vital to the ongoing work and the BCMTNA acknowledges and appreciates their continued support and contributions

Recently visible is the brand new BCMTN website It is now online at wwwbcmarinetrailsorg Paddlers can see for themselves (with latitude and longitude coordinates displayed) where all the BCMTN access points and tent sites on the two newly opened trails sections are located

The website contains other features too including opportunities for paddlers to become BCMTN lsquosupportersrsquo and to volunteer and participate in our developing stewardship programs

The BC Marine Trails Network is still in the beginning stages but its developers both the BCMTNA and its government partners believe it is the way to preserve the rights of paddlers Begun with First Nations peoples in their big canoes we will all be able to continue to travel explore and thoroughly enjoy this provincersquos magnificent marine environment

Keep tuned in

Stephanie Meinke is president of the BC Marine Trails Network Association

Stephanie Meinke BC Marine Trails update

Itrsquos here but whatrsquos really changed

One of the more remarkable BC Marine Trails designated spots is Topknot Point in the middle of nowhere south of Cape Scott

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

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West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

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CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

32 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Becoming a kayak guide at the age of 40-something is not what I had envisioned for myself On the other hand I failed miserably at having a desk job that required my participation in the competitive world of business My parents and others often ask me when I am going to grow up and get a lsquoreal jobrsquo When questioned about my career choice I simply smile and talk about my experience of working in the industry

For me becoming a kayak guide was an accident In order to develop my own paddling ability for a trip that I was completely unprepared for I took the Assistant Overnight Guide course with the Sea Kayak Guides Alliance of BC (SKGABC) The course combined everything that I wanted to know in a comprehensive and affordable package I had no intention of becoming a guide and did not think I fit the role I was short chubby uncoordinated and almost 40 During the training I was forced to acknowledge that my kayaking skills at the time were marginal at best I struggled with boat control in minor currents turned in circles without my rudder failed at efficient self-rescues and even dropped an entire meal on the ground that I was supposed to serve to the examiners (Good thing I was hidden behind a bush and able to pick out the grass before anyone noticed) I was completely surprised at the end of the week when I passed the course and was informed of all the strengths and unique characteristics that I could bring to the industry

Somewhat doubtful about my own kayaking and leadership ability I went paddling with friends for the summer took a few more courses and improved my skills The next fall I decided to attend a SKGABC guides exchange These weekend excursions are opportunities for networking and professional development that are held twice a year in a variety of locations along the BC coast I showed up expecting to see a sea of wool toques on 25-year-old men While I did see an abundance of outdoorsy

types the diversity in the industry was obvious Astoundingly 50 percent of the guides in the industry are female and the

age of active guides ranges from 19 to 69 My own stereotyped vision of a kayak guide had to be abandoned During this developmental weekend I felt completely welcomed and once again was reminded of my own particular abilities No one pointed out that their skills were

superior to mine in reality the sharing of expertise and knowledge in compassionate ways was the driving force of the weekend Everyone was welcomed and encouraged to participate at their own comfort level

After such empowering experiences I decided to give up my day job and become a kayak guide lsquojust for the summerrsquo As it turned out introducing individuals to the world of kayaking was the most rewarding and fulfilling career choice in my life thus far I got to do what I enjoyed doing and had lsquonew friendsrsquo every week with whom to share the joy of sea kayaking Working with children families and individuals on day trips and overnight journeys filled my heart that summer Being a kayak guide meant that I was able to support a diverse range of people who wanted to try out the sport or travel with the safety of a guide

in unfamiliar areas Suddenly my life had direction and meaning that I had never achieved before

Some guides work seasonally while others go back and forth between snow and sea Some venture to other countries to work year-round doing what they love I am completing a masterrsquos degree in the off seasons and hope to continue working with youth in outdoor settings for the rest of my life It is a good thing my parents are beginning to understand that the smile on my face and warmth in my heart mean much more to me than excelling in a material world where I donrsquot really belong

Being a guide with SKGABC means that I am supported by a non-profit society that has over 600 active members The SKGABC is a leader in promoting sea kayaking in British Columbia and in providing a variety of services to its members With the intention of developing a sustainable and competitive sea kayaking industry SKGABC promotes safety and standards that are generated from a unified voice of sea kayak professionals and operators The alliance strives to ensure that there is a high-quality sea kayaking environment for the benefit of all and provides a supportive community of professionals acting with integrity and seeking excellence

I encourage anyone who is curious to investigate SKGABC and see what training andor career opportunities may be possible Fortunately SKGABC welcomes all individuals involved in sea kayaking to become members whether they wear a wool toque or not To find out more visit wwwskgabccom

Sheila Porteous is a Level Three kayak guide with SKGABC and a sea kayak instructor with

Paddle Canada As a person with a disability she participates on several executive teams with the intention of maintaining diversity in the kayaking

industry She is also an active member of the South Island Sea Kayak Association amp Nanaimo

Paddlers She spends her summers working as a kayak guide and when off the water Sheila can

be found working on her Masters of Arts in Child and Youth Care

Sea Kayaks Guide Alliance of BC Sheila Porteous

Paid to paddle the road to guiding

Participants line the shore during a skills seminar at a SKGABC skills exchange Count the wool toques (Hint there are none)

Phot

o Li

am M

cNei

lSKG

ABC

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

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resCoast

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 33

Gett

ing Yo

u Out There

Since 1981

oceanriveradventurescomTours bull Courses bull renTals

oceanrivercomboats bull gear bull clothing

1824 Store Street Victoria Bc V8t 4r4 PHone (250) 381-4233 ldquoOne of North Americarsquos Most Significant Paddlesports Centersrdquo

WAVE LENGTH MAGAZINE ADSfinalindd 1 12-02-02 1150 AM

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

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Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

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New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

i recall the first time that Greenland kayaking made a blip on my radar screen I was kayaking around

Trial Island in the spring hoping for rough water when I saw a kayaker dressed in a black nylon bag paddling with a long skinny stick I vaguely associated this with some northern Inuit traditions My gut reaction was similar to seeing a punk rocker with an Iroquois haircut dyed purple and wearing too many nose rings Greenland kayakers punk rockers of the kayak world

The black bag was a tuilik an anorak that extends to the cockpit and doubles as a sprayskirt The hood seals around the face and allows an Inuit paddler to survive a capsize in frigid Arctic waters if he can roll back up without a wet exit The cockpits on Inuit kayaks are small and round making it very difficult to re-enter the kayak from the water Solitary cowboy re-entries are not an option Itrsquos a case of roll or die

I recall that the young kayaker I saw in the tuilik had a self-satisfied smirk as if he was enjoying some private joke He was paddling alone to the beat of a different drum living in his own world taking a holiday from the world of plastic Barbie dolls and carpet bombings and self-serving

bank bailouts And why wouldnrsquot he want to escape from that I do

I had memories of James Michenerrsquos stories about the Aleut kayakers in boats they called baidarkas Baidarkas are skin-on-frame kayaks made with a frame of red or yellow cedar or Sitka spruce The frame was traditionally covered with the hides of several seals or a fat walrus if they could find one The boats were long and narrow and round like a log They were sized small enough for a single paddle or big enough for a whole family moving camp The Aleut were masters of hunting walrus and

sea otters Michener made the point that Aleut Inuit were superbly adapted to a cold marine environment They could live out of their baidarkas for extended journeys roll the boat if they were capsized by an ornery walrus and capture enough food from the ocean to feed their extended families By any definition they were marine mammals

Far away the Greenland kayak took a different form to accomplish similar functions The west Greenland kayak has fewer ribs It has a keelson and two chine stringers to define its shape rather than the multi-chine approach of the Aleut baidarka

Greenland Paddling

qayaq wayThe Ph

oto

Mic

hael

Jack

son

mhj

padd

ling

blog

spot

com

34 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

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K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

Each area of the Arctic developed a different style of kayak Kayak builders in Greenland did not have nearly the choice of wood that the Alaska Aleuts did Since there are no trees in Greenland they had to work with whatever wood washed up on their shores A lot of that wood came from the mighty MacKenzie River which floated trees from northern Canada to the Arctic Ocean where they were trapped in pack ice and driven across the Arctic by wind and current

I was amazed the first time that I saw a McKenzie Delta kayak It had the upturned

gunwales of a Greenland kayak and the multiple chines of a baidarka from Alaska The kayak builders in each village would pick up ideas from their journeys east and west and incorporate them into their next kayak design A continuum of kayak styles developed across the Arctic from the Alaska Panhandle to the Mackenzie Delta to west and east Greenland

In 2010 the lure of Greenland skin-on-frame kayak drew me south on a journey of discovery to SSTIKS the South Sound Traditional Inuit Kayak Symposium on the Hood Canal in Washington State I

spent a day making a paddle with Don Beale A cedar two-by-four was marked and sawn and planed and sanded until it was transformed into a skinny stick that I paddled until its tips were worn and frayed SSTIKS was a wonderful introduction to Greenland rolling Learning the standard Greenland roll meant unlearning the sweep whitewater roll that I had been doing for three decades I didnrsquot lsquoget itrsquo until I watched Helen Wilsonrsquos DVD Simplifying the Greenland Roll As I floundered about in Sooke Basin I kept repeating her mantra ldquoeyebrows under water lift the recovery side knee slide onto the back deckrdquo

As a woodworker I was fascinated by the idea that I could build my own kayak out of western red cedar I signed up for a week-long course with Cape Falcon Kayaks on a farm in Oregon We camped in the meadow by the big red barn while a pile of lumber came to life as gunwales and deck beams and ribs and stringers lashed together with artificial waxed nylon sinew Brian Schultz taught the class how to keep the keel straight saw tenons and compound angles and stretch ballistic nylon over the frame and sew it

Gerhardt Lepp

qayaq wayu

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 35

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

36 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

The nylon skin was dyed and coated with polyurethane to make a skin that was tougher and more water resistant than seal skin

An initiation into the world of Greenland kayaking and rolling is not complete without spending a day with Cheri Perry and Turner Wilson from Kayakways I spent a sunny summer day on the sands of Goose Spit in Comox doing drills with them Turner suggested that I try one of their specialized skin-on-frame rolling kayaks and my world was literally turned upside down I had to wriggle my way into the boat it fit so tightly The masik is the raised and curved deck beam at the front of the combing It was M-shapeda protrusion on the bottom of the masik dipped down between my thighs and kept me centred in the qajaq The low volume provided only 2 cm of freeboard for the back deck The rocker of the hull provided stability and a low centre of gravity

Some pieces of the rolling puzzle came together that day under their expert guidance With a rush of elation and a glow of accomplishment I did my first hand rolls Like a kid with a new toy I kept rolling and rolling and rolling in amazement and delight

Turner is a woodworker architect expert Greenland roller teacher and qajaq builder He builds great rolling machines Inspired by his work I set out to build my own rolling qayaq My neighbours were

entertained as I set up my saw horses in the driveway and assembled gunwales and stringers and ribs Two qajaqs later I have the rolling qayaq of my dreams

To complete this picture I needed my own black bag or tuilik to wear in my qajaq I called up Paulo owner of Comfort Tuiliks for help He took my measurements and performed his own magic Paulo came out for the maiden voyage of the new tuilik He is meticulous about quality and helped me adjust the hood so that it would seal properly around my face and wrists The tuilik was much more watertight than my qajaq When I rolled upside down the water in the boat would drain into the tuilik which dutifully retained all that water

Greenland Paddling

close to my body I now realize why most traditional qajaq rollers wear their tuilik over a drysuit but this can also be solved by a pair of bib pants

I was out for a solo paddle one day with my pautik and tuilik and qajaq when someone approached me and asked me about the black bag I was wearing I explained that it was a traditional Inuit anorak designed for qayaqing With a skeptical look he stated ldquoAnd I suppose it is made of traditional Inuit nylonrdquo Resisting the urge to spear him with my pautik I replied ldquoYou have a point there I made one of sealskin but my dog ate itrdquo

I paddled away to the beat of a different drummer

PaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddlingPaddling isisisisFunFunFunFunFunFunFunBE PREPARED GET TRAINING

THIS AD WAS PRODUCED WITH FUNDING PROVIDED IN PART BY

NATIONAL PADDLESPORTS TRAINING

Self Rescue Use a Throw Bag Paddle in Wind and Waves Paddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsPaddle in Tides and CurrentsDO THEY KNOW HOW TO

BE PREPAREDBE PREPARED GET TRAININGGET TRAININGpaddlecanadacom

About the authorThe Pautik Group I started on

Facebook has been an interesting exercise in developing community among traditional kayaking enthusiasts all over the world I built a skin-on-frame kayak and got advice on fitting the masik from Italy Malta Maine and California The name pautik the Inuit word for a kayak paddle came from Kevin Floyd in Inuvik A video of the Great Canadian Beer Roll was submitted and Norway responded with

the Norwegian Broom Roll We have all enjoyed the amazing rolling animations and kayak graphics contributed by Eiichi from Japan Soon we will be watching James teaching advanced Greenland rolls in Argentina ndash Gerhardt Lepp

Phot

os M

icha

el Ja

ckso

n m

hjpa

ddlin

gbl

ogsp

otc

om

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 37

ComoxValleyKayakscomSALES RENTALS INSTRUCTION DAY TOURS

ldquo WE ARE A PADDLING SHOP rdquo

Comox Valley Kayaks amp Canoesby the water in Courtenay Vancouver Island BC

1-888-545-5595

Wersquore all stocked up

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

38 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

greenland paddles obviously have a long history But they havenrsquot been relegated to

museum collections On the contrary both kayaks and paddles drawing heavily from traditional Greenland designs are enjoying greater popularity than ever

It was high time that I tried a Greenland stick but if I was going to get a good introduction Irsquod need a guide Mike Jackson is a Greenland paddling enthusiast who recently took third place at the Kayak Academyrsquos Greenland Week Competition Hersquos also the distributor for Northern Light Paddles (northernlightpaddlescom) a manufacturer of lovely carbon-fibre Greenland paddles

As a long-time ldquoEurordquo paddle user a Greenland paddle initially felt pretty foreign to me An intriguing characteristic of a Greenland stick is that it is symmetrical on all three axes So therefore there is no right or left blade no back or front and no feather

angle to contend with Pick up a Greenland paddle any which way in any orientation and it is ready for use

The shaft or ldquoloomrdquo in Greenland circles is quite short the idea being that your hands

rest at the point where the blade and loom meet so that a good portion of your hand is on the blade area itself The Northern Light paddle has a nice ldquoshoulderrdquo at this junction that provides a comfortable grip and great blade angle feedback But having described this one grip position let me quickly add that another defining characteristic of the Greenland style is the use of ldquosliding strokesrdquo and ldquoextended paddlerdquo positions which have the kayaker shifting his grip all over the paddle

The reasoning is this Why restrict the grip to one central fixed position when shifting the hands to one end of the paddle or the other provides a huge increase in leverage and support A key element to the success of this strategy is the extreme narrowness of the blades which are easy to grasp

The Greenland paddle excels at sculling making it really easy and intuitive with the blade showing little or no tendency to dive The blade is so forgiving of blade angle on

Skillset

Going GreenlandIs there a choice to be made among paddle styles or is there room for both Alex Matthews begins the debate and casts off old habits

Phot

o by

Dav

e Ah

aron

ian

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 39

sweeps that Irsquom becoming quite convinced that it is likely easier to teach a beginner to roll with a Greenland paddle than with a Euro-style blade

So what are the downsides Well one of the usual criticisms is that the long and narrow blades lack power And there is validity to this argument With its long blade fully submerged a Greenland paddle provides pretty good bite but it cannot compete with the immediate powerful acceleration provided by a larger Euro blade The real question however is How much value is that potential acceleration to an average kayaker who isnrsquot racing

Irsquom most interested in a Greenland paddle for low-impact cruising Irsquom already heavily biased toward a Euro blade itrsquos what I grew up with what Irsquom most comfortable with and I wonrsquot hesitate to reach for mine when heading out to paddle surf or tide races I love their immediate bite and power But my newbie Greenland stroke has my hands in a far lower position than with my Euro and it feels easy on my aging body Irsquom really curious to see how that will translate on longer trips and how my stroke will change and improve to better take advantage of this new and different tool

Irsquom also curious as to why there seems to be such a division between those who use Greenland paddles and those who donrsquot Naysayers scoff but donrsquot try the paddles Some proponents deride Euro blades It seems to be an all-or-nothing proposition and I donrsquot understand why

Instruction

Experience is Necessary Whether you need lessons paddle sports gear a dry suit or kayak Kayak Academy has the experience to help youPhone 2065271825 toll-free 8663061825Web wwwkayakacademycomEmail infokayakacademycom

Kayak Academy (Seattle)

100000 impressions

West Coast Outdoor Leadership Training Quality skills training and Hesquiaht traditional knowledge for those pursuing a career or employment in the outdoors Certification courses include Paddle Canada Sea Kayaking Levels I amp II Introduction to Kayaking-Instructors Course Red Cross Wilderness First Responder Lifesaving BOAT amp ROC(M) Visiting Kayak amp Hiking Groups Base your Hesquiaht Harbour adventures from our Longhouse Meals and overnight stays availablePhone 2506701120Web wwwhooksumschoolcomEmail infohooksumschoolcom

Hooksum Outdoor School

North Island College offers certificate and diploma programs in Adventure Tourism that can start you on the path to a job doing what you really love

Call 1-800-715-0914 to speak with a Student Advisor or visit wwwnicbcca

Sometimes itrsquos a fine line between

work amp playW

WW

NIC

BC

CA

Alex Matthews

Let the kayaking community know yoursquore here for as low as $349 a year coastandkayakcomAdvertisehtml

Personally I found that picking up a Greenland paddle made me feel like a beginner again which was humbling but pretty cool too Irsquom intrigued and plan to paddle with both Euros and Greenland

paddles for a while ndash Irsquom bound to have fun and I might even learn something

Alex Matthews is author of Sea Kayaking Rough Waters

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

When the tide is out

Used traditionally for centuries everyone in the Pacific Northwest can benefit from this delightful wild rose It is readily available growing in a range of habitats and is easy to identify with no need to worry about being poisoned by look-alikes The hips are easy to harvest and are abundant when ripe in the fall though available all winter with the advantage that they taste sweeter after frost has taken away their slightly bitter flavour

The fleshy hips are full of Vitamin C and are high in anti-oxidants Itrsquos said that one cup of harvested and de-seeded rose hips have as much Vitamin C as a dozen oranges So on the Northwest coast where citrus fruits arenrsquot native and when fruits and berries are most lacking rose hips are your antidote for scurvy ndash a perfect option for people who want to eat locally by staying within a 100-mile diet

When the Tide is Out

Nootka Rose Rosa nutkana common name wild rose

phot

o D

og W

alki

ng G

irl

Wik

imed

ia C

omm

ons

40 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

When the tide is outthe table is set as the old saying goes CoastampKayak presents a new column that will put the landscape in an entirely new culinary light starting with the Nootka rose

Follow us in future issues as we scour the Pacific Northwest upland

and intertidal zones for recipes you can create from scratch

Hilary Masson

Exploring the wilderness is one thing living off it adds an entirely different

layer of experience Beach strolling will never be the same once you learn to

recognize tasty morsels

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 41

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

42 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

IdentificationThis shrub is easily identified because

it grows in thickets and looks similar to a common rose The shrub can grow to three metres in height and it spreads by rhizomes creating a thicket of erect and arching stems The new shoots are bright green the ends of each stem can range from dark red to bright red and the bottom of the mature stems can be dark brown to blackish Every stem has pairs of large prickles or thorns occurring at each node

The leaves are easily recognized bright green 1-7 cm long and elliptical with five to seven leaflets to a stock The paired leaflets have toothed edges and you will find a few thorns on the underside of the base of each leaf

Showy and scented flowers appear early summer (May-June) and range from light to dark pink The flowers can be 5-8 cm across usually occur singly or a bloom of two to three Each flower has five lobed petals and numerous stamens and the ovaries enclosed in the urn-shaped hypanthium

The fleshy hypanthium (base of the petals) ripens into an orange or purplish-

red hip 1-2 cm long The hips are present anywhere from mid-September throughout the winter

Distribution amp HabitatThe Nootka rose is native to western

North America and can be found along the entire coast from California to Alaska then east to the Cascade Mountains There is another variety hispida that is found from the Cascades east to the Rockies but while

paddling along the coast you will find the nutkana variety

Look for thickets of wild rose along maritime rock and southern cliff faces as well as in forest meadows It grows in most elevations from sea level to mid-way up mountains and is very hardy tolerating both shade and full sun as well as moist swamps and dry glacial till soils Wild roses are common along fences hedges and along rural pastures the edge of woodlands meadows and moist riparian zones

It flourishes in nitrogen-rich soils and forms prolific thickets that canrsquot be crossed by large animals but provide protection food and habitat for many species of birds insects and small wildlife Deer will feed on the new spring shoots mature leaves flowers and of course the hips too There are a few species of wasps that the Nootka rose hosts The larvae of mourning cloak and grey hairstreak butterflies are commonly deposited into the stems staying there until the larvae hatch

Ethnobotanical usesAboriginal people in the Pacific

Northwest traditionally used this species as

When the Tide is Out

Keep active with CoastampKayakWondering what to do in that long lonely time between magazines We have it covered

The CoastampKayak Facebook page is even for those who hate Facebook lsquoFriendrsquo us to keep up-to-date on the latest relevant paddlesports and environmental news and information No random witticisms just useful information Click here in our online edition or search CoastampKayak Magazine in wwwfacebookcom

Read our back issues We have dozens of magazines available online in a variety of formats including iPad-friendly versions Turn the magazine rack find a cover you havenrsquot seen before and enjoy Or read by topic wwwcoastandkayakcom

Get our epaddle newsletter New for Spring 2012 Subscribe to epaddle and get the latest in news and information on everything paddlesports ndash special offers discounts incentives freebies all the good stuff at special prices ONLY for epaddle subscribers Subscribe wwwcoastandkayakcomepaddlehtml

Planet Kayak The ultimate cure for kayaking withdrawal Browse an almost unlimited array of resources by geographic location Read about kayaking in Greenland watch a video of rock-hopping in Norway Find your area of interest then explore wwwplanetkayaknet

Shop for tours and adventures Our new adventure directory has tours from Borneo to Tanzania and all points between Fun to browse wwwcoastandkayakcom

Rose hip plums ready for picking

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 43

food medicine to treat a wide variety of ailments a source of cultural material and for ceremonial uses

In Bella Coola Nancy J Turner a famous ethnobotanist documented that the roots and sprouts were used in steam-baths An infusion from the root was also used as an eyewash

Derivatives of this wild rose were used for multiple purposes Natives in Western Washington used the stems for tea to ease labour pains and tea from the leaves was used as a wash to strengthen newborn babies The roots were also used in a decoction or tea to heal soar throats

The Makah used whole hips to make necklaces In the Okanagan a poultice of chewed leaves was applied to bee stings and mixed with ashes to eliminate swellings Placed under and over food while pit cooking it added flavor and prevented burning

Branches were used by the shamandoctor to sweep a gravesite before the body was interred A tea made from the branches served as protection from bad spirits and ghosts Hunters also used the tea to get rid of human scent to prepare for hunting or to soak fishing lines and nets to obtain good luck

First Nations in the North Thompson area placed leaves inside moccasins for athletersquos foot and for spiritual protection and good luck Both the Coast Salish and Nuu-cha-nulth ate the hips during the autumn and liked to mix the hips with oil before eating them Tsimshian people mixed the hips with oolichan grease and sugar which was eaten raw They also used the rose flowers in a lsquoflower dancersquo costume The Coast Salish used the roots with gooseberry and cedar roots to make reef nets for fishing Young shoots stems flowers and hips were used to make a variety of teas

other usesDuring the Second World War there

were no citrus fruits available in the north so in winter people were encouraged to be resourceful and pick wild rose hips to increase their intake of vitamin C Jams jellies syrups and tea were all popular uses

Harvesting and Preparation Young shoots can be harvested to

make a tea in the early spring the leaves can be harvested to make tea in the spring

and summer as can the rose petals when in bloom The hips are ripened by mid-September and stay on this shrub all winter even though all the leaves have fallen off The ideal time to harvest the hip is right after the first big frost of the fall usually in October on the BC coast

To harvest the hip break it off the stem at the base then with your thumb pull off all petal remnants Slice hip in half scoop out seeds and silvery hairs (as these are bad for digestion) After rinsing with fresh water dry on a cookie sheet in a warm place The dried hips are great for a flavourful anti-oxidant tea loaded with Vitamin C The process is labour intensive to remove all the seeds from each hip but will last for a long time once dried

If you want to make a jam it is recommended to extract all the seeds from the hips so I prefer to make a jelly where the entire hip with seeds inside can be boiled

then strained making a clear golden-orange jelly

Recipe 4 quarts whole rose hips 2 quarts water 1 package of pectin 5 cups sugar 12 cup lemon juice and one teaspoon

lemon zestTake the hips and water and simmer

until soft then mash and crush and strain through cheese cloth or a mesh strainer This should yield four cups of concentrated juice Add lemon juice and pectin crystals and stir until the mixture comes to a full hard boil then stir in sugar Let boil for a few minutes until it thickens while stirring continually Remove the jelly from heat and skim off foam with a metal spoon Sterilize jars then add the jelly and seal This is the best jelly recipe because you donrsquot have to take out the seeds and it tastes so great

Caution Seeds found inside hips are covered in

silvery hairs and these are a mild stomach irritant affecting digestion and in high doses could cause diarrhea But all other parts of the plant are not considered toxic Leaves stems flowers and hips are all edible and very nutritious

Hilary Masson is with Baja Kayak Adventures and Silva Bay Kayaking

Boiling the rose hips to make jelly

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

44 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

wwwCoastalWatersGroupcom

outdoor maps forsea kayaking

DVD Videoavailable Soon

NEWNEW

Water

Ventu

resCoast

RecreationMaps

Secure Your Next AdventureCable Locks for Your Kayak

Lasso Security Cables are simply the strongest easiest and most effective theft deterrent available for your kayak

wwwlassosecuritycablescom707-498-9905

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

11sp_lasso_01pdf 1 242011 85703 AM

New Gear

Every so often a new product comes along that makes you turn your head ndash and hopefully when you donrsquot have a kayak strapped to it

Herersquos the dilemma carrying your kayak alone for long distances is not fun not even a bit ndash at least until they invent one made of styrofoam thatrsquos so light you can spin it on your thumb That would be fun

Until then some folks in Halifax have come up with what they hope is the solution what they are calling a perfectly balanced hands-free carrier Just strap your kayak to your head and off you go

The key is securing the Carry Yak correctly at your kayakrsquos balance point otherwise the kayak will dip Once in place turn your kayak upside down lift the stern walk underneath drop the Carry Yak onto your shoulders then level it out and walk

Traditional solo carrying usually has meant lifting the kayak onto one shoulder Done properly and over short distances it shouldnrsquot cause problems though the initial lift and extended use of one shoulder can cause muscle problems The Carry Yak distributes the weight on both shoulders and by moving under the kayak to load it you can avoid that initial squat and lift which is

PADDLES

TM

Why Dig When You Can Glide wwwgullwingpaddlescom

Carry Yak

Athena

u

u

where the risk of most strain injuries liesThose with a chronic neck or shoulder

injury aggravated by carrying your kayak could probably best benefit from the Carry Yak The others among us will have to weigh the cost the space it takes to store it (if bringing it on a trip) and the extra effort to use it if normal methods arenrsquot a huge issue Therersquos also the extra wear on your kayak from having it nose-down to begin the loading process Fine on grass not so good on pavement Lastly the question is whether a set of wheels could be more useful

The unspoken benefit is both rain and sun protection of course And we do warn those carrying a kayak strapped to your head to not forget it and walk into a cafe Terrible things could result

If strapping your kayak to your head isnrsquot stylish enough express your femininity with this female-specific sprayskirt from Seals Sprayskirts The features form fitting a lower fit six-inch tunnel and five colours including ndash yes finally ndash hot pink Perfect to match that pink paddle What no one makes a pink paddle yet Give it time

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 45

March 17-18Gear Up EventOcean River Victoria

Sales event at 1824 Store St from 10 am until 5 pm both Saturday and Sunday

u wwwoceanrivercom

April 1Grand openingAlberni Outpost Duncan

Official opening of new store at 108-109 Trans-Canada Highway Duncan Village u wwwalbernioutpostcom

April 28-29Gig Harbor Paddlers CupGig Harbor Washington

This inaugural event will feature competitive paddle racing for kayaks canoes and SUPs to benefit the Gig Harbor Kayak Club and Surfrider Foundation

The Gig Harbor Paddlers Cup will be based at Skansie Brothers Park and Jerisich Dock with event races for all three categories taking place inside the harbour

Each day the event will run throughout the day with vendors and booths set up in the park while the races are taking place The Expo in the park is an opportunity to try out equipment view new boats and learn more about paddling sports u wwwgigharborpaddlerscupcom

April 26-28Chilliwack River Whitewater Festival

Details and location to be announced date tentative

wwwvankayakorg

May 12Northwest Paddling FestivalLake Sammamish State Park Issaquah WA

Details to be announced u wwwnorthwestpaddlingfestivalcom

June 11Paddle the EdgeUcluelet BC

A three-hour race in sheltered waters Participants will need to be ready with their kayaks at the Seaplane Base in Ucluelet at 930 am for the 10 am race start Sponsored by Majestic Ocean kayaking and the Ucluelet Chamber of Commerce

send us your eventsEmail us via kayakcoastandkayakcomMore online at coastandkayakcom

wwwbckayakscom(250)391-03331 nwcageartelusnet

ee

Events

Donrsquot miss an issue

Get great deals

Tell the world

coastandkayakcom

Get CoastampKayak delivered directly to your home

Sign up for the CoastampKayak epaddle newsletter

Help us continue to publish this great magazine ndash tell advertisers you heard about them in CoastampKayak Magazine

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

46 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine SPRING 2012

Books

South SoloKayakingtoSavetheAlbatross

HayleyShephardBayeuxArts

First Descent

PamWithersTundraBooks

Hayley Shephard first made a name for herself as a kayaker back in 1999 by circumnavigating Vancouver Island alone in 67 days She completed Haida Gwaii in 2005 and in 2010 combined her love of paddling and conservation in a trip with a purpose by kayaking the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia to raise awareness and money for the plight of the albatross

South Solo Kayaking to Save the Albatross details that trip and her passion to kayak alone around this isolated beautiful and yet forbidding island u hayleyshephardblogspotcom

Kayaking fiction Long overduePicture fast-paced action as Montana-

born Rex as he seeks out the most powerful and challenging rivers in the world eventually tackling the Furioso in southwest Colombia

Colombia Well you might guess that rivers wonrsquot be his only problem Facing paramilitaries and guerillas he also meets Maryam Calambas an indigena who lives near Furioso and together they must clash bad guys as well as forces of nature with dreams and survival hanging in the balance

Oh those drama writers u wwwtundrabookscom

Highs and lows heating and cooling wind systems fronts and storms ndash whether a boater or a kayaker the basic information is the same Here Margaret Williams tells us first about the forces that shape our weather then how it affects the boater Not all the latter information will apply to us kayak folk but certainly tips on how to read clouds and the different types will be useful for just about anyone While the illustrations could be better particularly intriguing is the chapter on weather forecasting ndash always something useful to brush up on u wwwschifferbookscom

Oh dear The jacket describes Texada as the largest island in the Gulf of Georgia but itrsquos a strait not a gulf and perhaps thatrsquos only a small detail worth overlooking for those interested in this no-stones-left-unturned history of this odd island out there in the middle of wherever it is From its natural history millions of years ago to the islandrsquos reputation in the 1960s for having the highest per capita consumption of beer in Canada well therersquos enough skullduggery colour and character to offer nuggets to anyone who has a connection with Texada Therersquos even a passing reference to the islandrsquos major cash crop ndash though thatrsquos perhaps modern history best left untold for now u wwwharbourpublishingcom

Mariners guide to nautical information

PriscillaTravisCornellMaritimePress

Bill Reid and the Haida Canoe

EditedbyMartineJReidHarbourPublishing

The Boaterrsquos Weather guide

MargaretWilliamsCornellMaritimePress

Texada Tapestry

HeatherHarbourdHarbourPublishing

Assuming the whole world hasnrsquot yet abandoned encyclopedias for Google searches Priscilla Travis has put together a tome of nautical information that encapsulates every marine-related term and then some Covering from the lsquoArsquo suffix on VHF radio channels to zulu time it may not be light reading but it will be illuminating and potentially useful ndash particularly since you wonrsquot get 10 million hits for information on South African aboriginals in your searches for information here u wwwschifferbookscom

Bill Reid (1920-1998) made his mark in life as a master Haida artist and turned much of his appreciation for Haida culture to the dugout cedar canoe Edited by his wife this book looks at Billrsquos exceptional work along with the colourful history of the dugout canoe in a work rich in photography artwork displays and historical images that bring these wonderful canoes to life Published as a companion to an art exhibit the work stands alone as a fascinating insight into both Haida art and the history and culture of dugouts u wwwharbourpublishingcom

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

SPRING 2012 COASTampKAYAK MAgAzine 47

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors

Numbered copies of The BC Coast Explorer Vol 1 are available online advance orders only No reserves no holdbacks ndash copy 1 is now available for the first order received

Large-format maps offer a new level of detail for planning coastal trips

IntroducingThe next generation of coastal BC travel guides

CoastampKayak Magazine is proud to introduce our first book and the most colourful and comprehensive guide book EVER for the British Columbia coast

Volume 1 covers some of the worldrsquos best coastal exploration from Port Hardy down the outer coast of Vancouver Island to Barkley Sound and the Broken Group Islands including Cape Scott Kyuquot Brooks Peninsula Nootka Sound Clayoquot Sound and the Broken Group Islands ndash all documented in unrivalled detail

Including all the latest BC Marine Trail information it adds to that with dozens of new never-before documented camping locations and features to see along with practical information on how to best transit this challenging coastline It is required reading for anyone visiting the BC coastline ndash or just dreaming of visiting

Maps and books available May 2012 at fine retailers and bookstores everywhere including these key partner locationsAbbotsford Western Canoeing and Kayaking Vancouver Ecomarine North Vancouver Deep Cove CanoeampKayak Victoria Ocean River Nanaimo Duncan Comox Alberni Outpost Comox Comox Valley Kayaks Check other locations online or order direct

In addition we are introducing a new line of BC Coast Explorer pocket maps on WATERPROOF indestructible stock to be compatible with the new BC Coast Explorer guide book New maps will include ClayoquotNootka Sound Barkley SoundBroken Group Islands and Desolation SoundDiscovery Islands The large 22x32-inch format is rich in information making this a must-have for any coastal trip

wwwcoastandkayakcomorderonline

Calling all

ColleCtors


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