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DrLucyNorris
PersonalDetailsDrKatherineLucyNorrisEmail:[email protected]:www.lucynorris.co.ukAcademicQualifications06.03 UniversityCollegeLondon PhDThelifecycleofclothing:recyclingandthe
efficacyofmaterialityincontemporaryurbanIndia09.97 UniversityCollegeLondon MA(Distinction):AnthropologyofArt07.87 UniversityofEastAnglia BAHons(2:1)inEuropeanHistory& SocialAnthropologyEmploymentHistory09.16– UniversityoftheArts, VisitingFellow,TextilesEnvironmentDesign(TED)
London 01.15-12.15ESMODBerlin Vertretungsprofessorin(W3),MASustainabilityin
Fashion01.14-12.14Anthropology,UCL ResearchAssociate,FibreInnovationNetwork10.06-08.11” SeniorResearchFellow,ESRCprojectTheWasteof
theWorld11.05-09.06“ ResearchFellow,EUprojectonSustainableDiversity:
DialogueThroughtheArts:DiversityintheCulturalArena.
01.06-04.06“ Lecturer,MaterialCultureofSouthAsia10.05-11.06JournalofMaterialCulture EditorialAdministrator07.05-10.05MuseumEthnographer’sGroup SubjectSpecialistNetworkcollectionsresearch.01.04–04.04Anthropology,UCL Lecturer,MaterialCultureofWestAfrica&SouthAsia11.03-12.04“ ESRC-fundedPostdoctoralFellow01.03-10.03“ ResearchFellowinEUFP7‘ECHO’project10.98-06.02“ Fully-fundedESRCPhDstudentship09.96-09.98HornimanMuseum CollectionsManager(HeadOfDept)06.95-09.99 “ DocumentationManager(SectionHead)03.90-05.95 " EthnographicCollectionsAssistant
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Publications
Books• Norris,Lucy.2010.RecyclingIndianClothing:GlobalContextsofReuseandValue.Bloomington,
IndianaUniversityPress.• Hitchcock,M.&Norris,L.1995.Bali:TheImaginaryMuseum.ThephotographsofWalterSpies
andBeryldeZoete.KualaLumpur:OxfordUniversityPressEditedJournalIssue• Norris,LucyandBotticelli,Julie.(Eds.)2012.TradeandTransformationsofWornClothing.A
specialissueofTextile:theJournalofClothandCulture,Vol.10,Issue2.Academicjournalarticles• Norris,Lucy.(forthcoming)2017.‘Urbanprototypes:growinglocalcircularclotheconomies’.
BusinessHistory,specialissueonChangingSecond-handEconomies.• Norris,Lucy.2015.‘Second-handClothinginIndia:thelimitsofethicalityininternational
markets’.GeoforumSpecialIssue:EthicalConsumption’.Availableonlinedoi:10.1016/j.geoforum.2015.06.003
• Norris,Lucy.2013.‘AestheticsandEthics:upgradingtextileproductioninnorthernKerala’inGeoforum.Vol50,December,pp221-231,http:..dx.doi.org.10.1016.j.geoforum.2013.09.006
• Crang,M.,A.Hughes,N.Gregson,L.Norris,F.Ahamed(2013)."Rethinkinggovernanceandvalueincommoditychainsthroughglobalrecyclingnetworks."TransactionsoftheInstituteofBritishGeographers38(1):12-24.
• Norris,Lucy.2012.‘Economiesofmoralfibre:materializingtheambiguitiesofrecyclingcharityclothingintoaidblankets’inJournalofMaterialCulture,Vol.17(4),pp389-404
• Norris,Lucy.2012.‘TradeandTransformationsofSecond-handClothing:anIntroduction’inTextile:theJournalofClothandCulture,Vol.10(2)pp128-143.
• Norris,Lucy.2011.’TheFutureofHandloomTextilesinKerala’inAnthropologyNowVol.3Number2pp1-9
• Norris,Lucy.2008.‘RecyclingandReincarnation:thejourneysofIndiansaris’inMobilitiesVol.3,No3pp415-436.Specialissue‘MigrantWorlds,MaterialCultures’.
• Norris,Lucy.2005.‘Cast(e)-offclothing.AResponsetoK.TranbergHansen(AT20[4]).’AnthropologyTodayVol.21[3].P24
• Norris,Lucy.2004.‘Sheddingskins:thematerialityofdivestmentinIndia’inJournalofMaterialCultureVol.9(1)pp59-71.
AcademicBookChapters• Norris,Lucy.2012.‘Shoddyragsandreliefblankets:Perceptionsoftextilerecyclinginnorth
India’inAlexander,CatherineandReno,Josh(Eds.).EconomiesofRecycling:Theglobaltransformationofmaterials,valuesandsocialrelationsLondon:ZedBooks.Pp35-58.
• Norris,Lucy.2012.‘EverythingMustGo’inTheSustainableFashionHandbook.London:Thames&Hudson.Pp.266-269.
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• Norris,Lucy.2011.‘CreatingfameandfortunefromtheruinsofhandloominKerala,southernIndia’inMcAnany,Patricia&WalterLittle(Eds.)TextileEconomies:PowerandValuefromtheLocaltotheTransnational.Lanham,MD,AltamiraPress.(SocietyforEconomicAnthropologyMonographsVol.29)Pp285-306.
• Norris,Lucy.2006.‘Whatmakesatextilemodern?TherecyclingofclothinginthePunjabishoddytrade’inRogerson,C.&Garside,(Eds.)TheFutureoftheTwentiethCentury:Collecting,InterpretingandConservingModernMaterials.London:Archetype.
• Norris,Lucy.2005.‘Cloththatlies:thesecretsofrecyclinginIndia’inKüchler,S.&Miller,D.(Eds.).ClothingasMaterialCulture.Oxford,NewYork:Berg.
• Norris,Lucy.2004.‘Creativeentrepreneurs:therecyclingofsecond-handIndianclothing’inPalmer,A.&Clark,H.(Eds.)OldClothes,NewLooks:SecondHandFashion.Oxford,NewYork:Berg.
Shorter Contributions • Norris,Lucy.(Forthcoming)2017.‘ClothinginCirculation’inSvendson,Z.&Daw,S.(Eds.).World
Factory:TheGame.London:NickHernBooks• Norris,Lucy.2012.‘EverythingMustGo!’inBlack,S.(ed)TheSustainableFashionHandbook.
London:Thames&Hudson.P266-69.(WithphotographsbyTimMitchell).SelectedCompetitiveAwardsandGrants
• ESRCPost-doctoralResearchFellowshipNov2003–Nov2004(salaryplusresearchexpenses)• FirthAward2003foroutstandingyoungscholar(awardedbyRoyalAnthropologicalInstitute)• ESRCPhDStudentship1998–2002(salaryplusresearchexpenses).• BritishAcademySmallResearchGrants:
• 2004(SG-38685,£5,000photographicprojectinIndia)• 2010(SG-100952,£7,000filmproductionandwebsitedevelopment).
• PasoldResearchFund2004,2010(conferencegrants),2015(researchgrant).• UCLGraduateSchoolConferenceFund2002,2003,2004• UniversityofLondonCentralResearchFund2001,2004(fieldworkinIndia).
InvitedinternationalAcademicPresentations• ‘Systemicchangesinthesupplysideandtheireffectsonthedownsideeconomyofsecondhand
clothes’atLaFripedunordausud:Recyclage,commerce,etconsommation.IMéRA,AixMarseilleUniversité.4-5thApril,2017.
• ‘Circulatingcast-offclothing:reachingthepointofnoreturn?’atDownthePan:NewDirectionsintheSociologyofDirt,UniversityofGlasgow,supportedbyTheSociologicalReviewFoundation,20thMarch2017.
• ‘Theemergingpoliticsoftheglobalsecond-handclothingtrade:toreuseortorecycle?’PapergivenattheworkshopSuitcasesandContainers:ConsideringTrade,MigrationandUrbanChange,LaboratoireInterdisciplinaired’ÉtudesUrbaines(LIEU)delaMaisondeSciencesHumaines,UniversitelibredeBruxelles.12thDec.2016.
• ‘UnsustainableCirculations?TheIndianTextileRecyclingEconomy’.SeminarattheCenterforCriticalHeritageStudies,UniversityofGothenburg.27thSept.2016
• EverythingMustGo!Puttingthesecond-handclothingtradeondisplay’,presentedattheseminarseries‘Surplus,RagsandFashion:theWorldsofSecondhandClothes’atMuCEM,Marseilles,France.27thMarch2015.
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• ‘Re-circulations:RefashioningValueintheGlobalSecond-handClothingtrade’,presentedatthepanel‘FashioninMotion:BeyondEastmeetsWest’attheAsianStudiesAssociation-in-AsiaconferenceattheAsiaResearchInstitute,NationalUniversityofSingapore,17-19July2014.
• ‘Second-handclothingandtheLimitsofEthicality’.InvitedpaperpresentedattheGeoforumconferenceEthicalconsumptionandtheGlobalisingMiddleclasses,Dept.ofGeography,DurhamUniversity,UK.8-9thJuly2014.
• ‘Second-handClothingMarketsinIndia’,presentedattheconferenceInformalandEverydayMarkets:ModernHistoriesofIndianBusinessandEntrepreneurshipsincetheC19,CentreforModernIndianStudies(CeMIS)andInstituteforEconomicandSocialHistory,Georg-AugustUniversitätGöttingen,Germany.18-20thJune,2014.
• ‘Thrift,charityandcommerce:marketsandtheproductionofmoralvalue’presentedinabsentiaatthepanel‘VisibilizationandConcealment:SocialCritiqueandAnthropologiesofValue’attheAmericanEthnologicalSociety(AES).SocietyforVisualAnthropology(SVA)Springconference,Boston,USA.10-12thApril2014.
• ‘UnravellingWasteEconomies’.Invitedpaperpresentedat‘AlternativeandEmergingEconomiesofDesign’,PapanekSymposium2013,VictorJ.PapanekFoundation,UniversityofAppliedArtsVienna,Austria.Nov14-15th2013.
• ‘ThetextilerecyclingindustryinIndia:thedestructionofvalue?’InvitedpaperforaworkshoponSecond-handCirculationsinGlobalHistory,TokyoInternationalUniversity,February4th2012,andthesymposiumConsumingtextilesthroughtheirusesandreuses,NationalMuseumofEthnology(Minpaku),Osaka,Japan.February7-8th,2012.
• 'Recyclingeconomies:materializingthemoralambiguitiesofreprocessingsecondhandclothinginIndia',InvitedpaperpresentedattheEthnologischesSeminar,UniversitätZürich,Switzerland.November22nd2011.
• Globaleconomiesofmoralfibre:materializingtheambiguitiesofrecyclingcharityclothingintohumanitarianaidblankets’,presentedattheGermanAnthropologicalAssociation(GAA-DGV)CongressinVienna,Austria.September14thto17th,2011
• ‘RemainsorResource?AlternativeperspectivesondirtandthesuccessofusedclothingtransformationsinIndia’,presentedattheconferenceRecyclingTextileTechnologies,UCLJune14th2010,organisedbyNorris&BotticelliaspartoftheESRC-fundedWasteoftheWorldproject.
• ‘Ruinsorrevivals:competingvisionsforadeclininghandloomindustryinnorthKerala’;InvitedpaperfortheworkshopGlobalisationin/andMofussilIndiaintheDepartmentofAnthropology,LondonSchoolofEconomics&Politics,UK.July6th-7th2009.
CollaborativeVisualArtsProjects
PhotographyCollaborationwithTimMitchell(photographer)toproducephotographicarchiveoftextilerecyclingindustriesinIndia(2004).FundedbyBritishAcademySmallResearchGrant,(SG-38685),leadingtotheexhibitions‘IndiaRecycled’(HornimanMuseum,London2008-9)and‘EverythingMustGo’(Bargehouse,London2012),thefinalprojectdisseminationeventfortheESRC-funded‘WasteoftheWorld’.
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FilmExecutiveproducerofshortdocumentaryUnravel,producedanddirectedbyMeghnaGupta.Thefilmwasbaseduponmylong-termfieldresearchintotheshoddyrecyclingindustryinnorthIndia.FundedbyaBritishAcademySmallResearchGrant(SG-100952),andtheESRC(RES000-23-0007),ithasgoneontowinseveralprizesandnominationsontheinternationalfilmfestivalcircuit,includingtheJuryAwardatAljazeeraInternationalDocumentaryFilmFestival,October2014.UnravelcanbeviewedonlineatAeonhttps://aeon.co/videos/this-is-the-final-resting-place-of-your-cast-off-clothingExhibitionCuration
EverythingMustGo,Bargehouse,Southbank,London.January20-22nd,2012
• Co-curatorofEverythingMustGo!(withClarePatey),large-scaleexhibitionbaseduponmyown
fieldworkinIndiaandassociatedartworks,plusvisualmaterialrelatingtoresearchonship-breaking.HeldattheBargehouse,Southbank,London.January20-22nd,2012.(ExhibitionreviewpublishedinTextileVol.10(2).
• IndiaRecycledHornimanMuseumMay24th2008–January25th2009.PhotographstakenduringfieldworkinDelhioftherecyclingclothingindustrybyTimMitchell,researchedandcuratedbyLucyNorris.Estimatedvisitornumbers:70,000
• DesignedandinstalleddisplayforentrancetoUCLDeptofAnthropologyfoyer,basedonfieldworkandcollectionsmadeinIndia.
SelectedResearchContributions,Dissemination&Media• CollaborativeworkonElasticLives(CulturesofResilience,UaL)withProfBeckyEarley&Bridget
Harvey.Exploringresiliencethroughconceptsofvolunteeringanddonatingtorefugeeshelters.May2016.
• Contributortoexhibition‘FastFashion.DieSchattenseitenderMode’attheMuseumfürKunstundGewerbeHamburg(20.3.to20.9.15).SubsequentlyinstalledattheDeutschesHygienemuseumDresden(2015-16),TextilmuseumSt.Gallen(2016-17),BulwaganngDangal,QuezonCity(2016),Jakarta(2017),Köln(2018-19)
• ExpertpanellistonGuardianSustainableBusiness‘Livechat’onlineseminaraboutrecyclingtextilesandfashion,18-02-2015.
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• Researchfeaturedonline,inUKandUSnewspaperandmagazinearticles,including:o Newsweek(USA)byAldenWickero Politiken:Ressourcersectionp23,10.10.14.(Denmark)byDorritSaietzo inauguralissueofMakeshiftMagazineo GuardianGalleryonline2008
Exhibitionconsultancyandresearch• Consultant/ResearcherfortheMuseumOf…theUnknown,atemporaryinteractiveexhibition
heldattheBargehouse,OxoTowerWharf,Southbank,London.October-November2000.• Consultant/ResearcherfortheMuseumOf….Collector’sCollections,acriticalexaminationof
museumsandthemeaningsofcollectingpracticethroughthedisplayoflocalresident’spersonalcollections.HeldattheBargehouse,Southbank,London.August-September1998.
Museumcollections• CollectionofcontemporaryrecycledtextilesfromIndiacommissionedbythePitt-Rivers
Museum,Oxford,duringPhDfieldwork1999-2000.
TeachingExperienceMasters’projects,ESMODUniversityoftheArts,Berlin(2015):supportingMaster’sstudentswithdevelopingtheirdesignprojects,researchmethodologiesandwrittentheses.Lecturingontaughtcoursesfor3rdyearundergraduatesandMAstudentsintheDept.ofAnthropology,UCL.• SpringTerm2006.Lecturer,MaterialCultureofSouthAsiawithDrMukulikaBanerjee.• SpringTerm2004.Lecturer,MaterialCultureofWestAfricaandSouthAsiawithDr.C.Pinney,
Prof.M.Rowlands.TutorialAssistantforundergraduatecoursesinDept.ofAnthropology,UCL.(2000-2003),including• IndividualStudies(3rdyrDissertationsupervision,10,000words)• MaterialCultureofSouthAsiaandWestAfrica(3rdyr.&MAstudents)• IntroductiontoMaterialCulture(1styrundergraduates).SelectedTalks,Seminars&ShortCourses• July2011.Guestlecture‘CreativeDestruction?TheIndianTextileRecyclingIndustry’fortheMA
TextileandSurfaceDesignstudents,GREENLab,KunsthochschuleBerlin-Weissensee,Germany.• Spring2010.SeminarforMAMaterialandVisualCulture,DepartmentofAnthropology,UCL• April-May2004.Devisingandteachinga3½dayintensivecourseinEthnographictheoryand
methodsfortheMAinIndustrialDesignattheRoyalCollegeofArt.• Spring2004.GuestLecturer,Dept.ofAnthropology,Goldsmith’s,UniversityofLondon.• November2000.TheMuseumOf…Collector’sCollections.Presentationandseminarontheories
ofcollectingpracticeandresearch,runfortheMAinDesign,ChelseaSchoolofArt,TheLondonInstitute
PublicEngagementIhavegivennumeroustalksorparticipatedinworkshopsregardingtopicsassociatedwithglobalsecond-handeconomies,recyclingpracticeandfieldworkinIndia.
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Theseinclude:• EthicalFashionShow,Berlin(Jan2016)FringeProgramme.• UKthirdsectorbodiessuchastheCharityRetailAssociationandOxfam• UKgovernmentbodiesegWRAPonissuesrelatingtopolicy(Iwasamemberoftheearly
ClothingRoadmapworkshopdevotedtoReuseandRecycling).• Museumcuratorsandresearchgroups,egBritishMuseum,OxfordAsianTextileGroup,
HornimanMuseum,MuCEM.• Generalinteresttalkstoprivateassociationsoftextilespecialists,practitioners,andcollectors.
ProfessionalAcademicPractice• Refereeforpeer-reviewedjournals:AmericanEthnologist,JournaloftheRoyalAnthropological
Institute(JRAI),SouthAsia,JournalofMaterialCulture,Geoforum,JournalofLatinAmericanandCaribbeanAnthropology,CultureUnbound,BusinessHistory
• ExaminerforMPhil.&PhDsatUCL(internal),CopenhagenBusinessSchool(external),LondonCollegeofFashion(external).
ProfessionalAffiliations• RoyalAnthropologicalInstitute(UK)• SocietyforEconomicAnthropology(USA)