Download - Indian textile industry
Indian Textile Industry
R.B.ChavanDepartment of Textile Technology
Indian Institute of TechnolgyHauz-Khas, New Delhi 110016
Introduction
industrial textile production
14%
Foreign exchange earning
20 billion
Employment (Textile) 35 millionTotal employment
Including agriculture 93 million
SSI and Non SSI
Sector Total investment (Rs.)
Small scale Upto 6 million
Medium and large scale More than 7.5 million
Decentralized Sector
TEXTILE INDUSTRY IN INDIA
NATURAL FIBRES / FABRICS
MAN-MADE FIBRES / FABRICS
Organized Sector(Mills)
Spinning Composites Handloom Powerloom Khadi
WO
OL
JUTE
SILK
CO
TTON
RAYONCellulose / viscose
BLENDED(Synthetic + Natural)
SYNTHETIC(Nylon, PET, PAN)
Cotton 70%
Wool, Silk Jute, Coir etc
10%
Manmade and blends 20%
Percent share of total production
Textile sector: Two groups
Natural fibres
Manmade fibres and blends
Production activities
Organized Mill sector
Spinning mills only
Composite mills:
Spinning
Weaving
Chemical processing
Garment manufacture
Production activities
Decentralized sector
Powerlooms
Handlooms
Khadi
Hosiery
Garment manufacture
Organized mill sector (1997)
Spinning mills (SSI and Non SSI) 1500
Composite mills 284
No. of mills closed 349
Huge growth in spindle capacity
1951: 11 milion
1997: 33 million
Decline in weaving capacity
1951: 2.1 million
1997: 1.24 million
11
33
0
10
20
30
40
No. o
f Spi
ndles
in
mill
ion
Spinning Capacity
1951 1997
2.1
1.24
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
No.
of L
oom
s in
lakh
s
weaving Capacity
1951 1997
Problems
High interest rates of lending
poor quality,
insufficient availability and high tariff of power
infrastructure inadequacies
labour indiscipline
upgrade competitiveness to the international standards
mills can withstand competition from imports.
in most of the successful textiles producing nations like South Korea and Taiwan, it is the organized sector (mill sector) that plays a pivotal role in creating a brand name for the industry.
(GoI) has launched
Technology Mission on Cotton (TMC) to improve productivity and quality of cotton,
technology upgradation fund scheme (TUFS) (Initial period 1999-2004)
Measures taken by GOI
Decentralized sector
Features
Ease of entry
reliance on indigenous resources,
family ownership,
small scale operation,
labour intensive technology,
skills acquired outside the formal school system,
unregulated and competitive markets.
Problems
lack of technical competence,
poor quality products,
low labour productivity.
GOI help
Involvement of local agencies in planning
Marketing support
Handloom sector
Handlooms are a part of Indian heritage, they exemplify the richness and diversity of culture and hence the artistry of the weavers.
Purchase of yarn from mill,. weaving on Handloom
No. of looms 3900000
Employment 300,000? weavers Through out urban and rural areas of the country
Cloth production 20% of total cloth produced in the country
Able to withstand competiton from powerloom
Wave of ethnic revivalism effective state intervention through financial assistance implementation of various developmental schemes have brought about more than ten fold increase in the production of handloom fabrics. enjoying the benefits of reservation of certain fabric varieties, subsidies on raw materials and rebates on the prices of fabrics sold. The developmental programmes is aimed towards employment generation, modernization and upgradation of technology, market support, welfare measures publicity. In all the schemes emphasis has been laid on assisting handloom weavers directly, including upgradation of their skills etc.
Handloom survival
Powerloom sector
Weaving on power operated looms
Differentiated from organized mill sector on the basis of fragmented decentralized operation on small scale
Statistics
No. of looms 16,00000
Employment 70,00000
Market share 70% of total cloth production
Export 60% of total value
Powerloom
Features
combination of traditional art and contemporary modern designs.
The modernisation process undertaken by this industry has widened the scope of products such as grey, printed and dyed fabrics and cotton made-ups in a variety of sophisticated finishes and in a wide range of widths and sizes.
the industry is now in a position to offer fabrics not only of cottons but also of rich blends of cotton, synthetics and other fibers.
The process of economic liberalisation has enabled the industry to become globally competitive, not only in terms of price, but also in relation to quality and productivity
Powerloom
Problems
lower levels of technological sophistication. the growth has been stunted by technological obsolescence, fragmented structure,
low productivity
low-end quality products.
GOI help
focussing towards
technology upgradation,
modernisation of service centres, testing facilities
clustering of facilities to achieve optimum levels of production
Cloth production share
KhadiFeature
Hand spinning, hand weaving
Hand Spinning equipment Charkha
Most popular Charkha: Amber Charkha or New model charkha (NMC)
Downsized version of Ring spinning
Employment 1400000
Production 0.4% of total cloth production
Enjoys GOI support through KVIC under Ministry of Agro Rural Industries
Problems
Technologically most deprived sector
HosierySector
Knitting
Knitwears
Concentration
Wool and synthetic Ludhiana (Punjab)
Cotton Titupur (Tamil Nadu)
Features small-scale industry and labour intensive. Its growth accelerated during the last decade, primarily because of expansion of hosiery into global fashion knitwear, it is expected to expand into the apparel and home furnishing sectors. This sector shares about 18% of total production of cloth.The industry mainly produces T-shirts, cardigans, jerseys, pullovers, polo shirts, and outer garments for men and women.
GOI help
focussing towards technology upgradationexpansion of capacity introduction of support systems for commercialintelligence, design and fashion inputs
Cloth production in different sectors
Chemical wet processing
Involves
Preparatory processing Desizing, scouring, bleaching, mercerization, silk degumming, wool scouring etc.
Dyeing
Printing
Finishing
Processing forms
Fibre
Yarn
Fabric
Garments
Sector
Organized
Unorganized
Highly fragmented
Large number of small units
Probblems
Unorganized processing units
Small size compared to international standards
Smaller (Particularly garment processing) than in some of neighbouring countries
Weakest link in textile manufacture
Technology obsolescence
lack process standardizations
Lack of technical manpower
Use of non eco friendly chemicals
Release of effluents without treatment
Environment pollution
Large water consumption
Water pollution major concern.
Garment manufacturing
This sector is of recent origin and has grown predominantly on the basis of export demands.
Initially it was reserved for small scale sector.
However it is now open to organized sector and many big players have entered into garment manufacturing.
compared to mill sector the garment manufacturing sector is growing fast. It provided employment,
value addition and
major earning in foreign exchange through exports
Per capita cloth availability
Total cloth production (Mill, powerloom, handloom,khadi, hosiery) 4.3 billion Sq. M
World average?
Exports
ITI share in exports 1999-2000
SSI and Cleaner production technologies
SSI main source of Environment pollution
large number of SSI
practice old-age technologies
unskilled labour force.
Apart from this technological obsolescence
No quality standards no information about ongoing environmental impacts of their production steps. lack of awareness of market orientation in global trade
Every process from raw material preparation to spinning and weaving upto finishing processes are contributing cumulatively to environmental problems.
The GoI is formulating many policies and schemes for the upgradation of the industry to meet market requirements.
The initiative of the government is seen mainly towards funding. there is a great need of educating unskilled labour of small and tiny units clustered in remote areas of the country.