Ensuring Perfect ColorProper Preparation
Proper Formulation
Proper Application
Proper Saturation
Proper Timing
Proper Rinsing
45 minutes
Timing
Timing can vary up or down depending on stylists desired out come. Remember that increasing the time increases
the deposit, decreasing time affects colors lasting
Softness & Shine Every time When washing use warm water, then Emulsify Color, Lastly rinse. Finished color
should be Soft, Shiny, & Healthy Looking after every single application
SkinThe sun destroys the melanin in your skin Since your skin is alive, it can respond to the sun’s damage by producing more melanin which in turn makes your skin darker
HairThe sun bleaches and destroys the melanin in your hair giving you lighter hair Since hair is dead, the hair will stay that color until new hair grows in
Shades of BrownNatural Hair Levels are different variations of the color Brown
.0 .6 .3
.07 .66 .33
.22 .44 .37
Counteracting Unwanted Pigments
These pigments can be remaining pigments or existing unwanted pigments
Level 11 Has very little tone.
11.2 has very little
Violetbut a lot of lifting
power
Level 9 Has more tone than
11.2 More Violet Pigment
but less liftingpower
Lifter Toner
Toning Lift FormulaStarter Formula:
Equal Parts: Color + Developer
1 3/4 part 11 Series 1/4 part Amplifier
+ 2 parts 60 Volume
The more 11 series the more lift but less
tone
The more amplifierthe less lift but more
tone
How Much Amplifier?
You Decide based on what you want
Counteracting YellowWhen lifting lighter shades add 07 Blue Amplifier to cut yellow undertone in outcome
1.75 oz 11.2 Teinture + 0.25 oz 07 Amplifier + 2 oz 60 Volume
Counteracting Red UndertoneWhen lifting darker shades add 37 Green Amplifier to cut red undertone in outcome
For Natural Looking Carmel Highlights on Darker Bases
1.5 oz 11.2 Teinture + 0.5 oz 37 Amplifier + 2 oz 60 Volume
Accentuating RedWhen lifting into copper or red shades add 44 or 66 Amplifier to add copper
or red undertone to outcome or use 11.53 shade for natural warmth
1.5 oz 11.0 Teinture + 0.5 oz 44 Amplifier + 2 oz 40 Volume
Vary Developer Choice
for desired lift
Vary Color Selection and Amplifier
for desired look
Tips
Start Conservative then go crazy :)
Type of Toner depends on how bad the tone is
Use amplifiers in your formula to tone as you lift.
*Color Shampoo
Instantané as a toner by itself
Color Glaze Formula
Semi / Demi Toner Formula
Decolorize11.2 + 60 Volume
Timing and lift varies based on what you are lifting outCheck on lift every 5 minutes
Decolorizing Procedure
✤ Apply lifting mixture 1/8 inches above scalp and through the ends
✤ Apply product quickly
✤ Once you see color lightening in the mid shaft and ends, be ready to apply remaining mix to roots
✤ If your end result is in the blondes, start apply root mix when color starts lightening up
✤ If your end result is light brown to dark blonde wait to apply root mixture till the color has left the red orange stage
Decolorizing Process
✤ Results vary based on existing color history
✤ Results will be individual to each client
✤ Ability to lift is determined not only by the formula but by the clients color history, hair type, and room temperature
✤ For best results remind your client that this is a process that may take more than one application over a longer period of time.
SkinThe sun destroys the melanin in your skin Since skin is alive, it can respond to the sun’s damage by producing more melanin. Now use your formulation to be like skin, your formula adds more pigments
Tint Backs = Lifting in ReverseWhen hair is lifted pigments are removed in a specific order and amount
When we Tint hair Back to brown, its our job to play nature to ensure results
Accentuating Left Over Pigments
These left over pigments can be remaining pigments or existing pigments.
Modified Tint
FORMULA 11 oz - 4.0 Mastey Color1 oz - 4.6 Mastey Color2 oz - 4.34 Mastey Color
4 oz - 10 Volume
Application Time: A long time :)Processing: 45 minutes
Modified Tint
FORMULA 11 oz - 4.0 Mastey Color1 oz - 4.6 Mastey Color2 oz - 4.34 Mastey Color
4 oz - 10 Volume
Application Time: A long time :)Processing: 45 minutes
A Journey to Making Silver
Should be Silver and Blue based on the amount of 07…
1 part 9.1 2 part 9.1 Instantané
07 Amp 10 Volume
Silver Gray + Blue => LT. BROWN
Jamie was not bleached, she was already blonde but had more yellow tint so it went brown and the light in the room affected the shade
When you are experimenting:
You may be right. But you could be wrong. Make Sure you test it :)
Strand test it :)
You are now smart enough to know...
That you should ask yourself questions
What questions to ask yourself
That there is no perfect solution to every problem
How to find an answer that works for you and your client based on your own questions
THE FINAL (PART 1)
• Pick 3 people
• Get signed model release form
• Take their before picture
• Explain how you would complete a total make over for them.
• Perform makeover (cut and color)
• Photograph Results
• Make sure to note your color formulas, color techniques, and an explanation of your cut
• We will provide product replacement
SOCIAL MEDIA
• Google My Business Page
• Salon Facebook Page
• Review Mastey Certification Program at:facebook.com/masteyhaircareClick the Stars you would like to give us and then write something nice :) about us.
• Testimonial Video or written about your use of our products, if you like them and why, and about the color certification program.
• We’ll send more details on each in an email
• Your invited to our Social Media Webinars and a Mastey Advanced Color Seminar at Mastey in California. Date: TBD (Fall/Winter 2015)