Transcript

Healthy Beautiful HairHigh Lifts,Tint Backs & Beyond

Ensuring Perfect ColorProper Preparation

Proper Formulation

Proper Application

Proper Saturation

Proper Timing

Proper Rinsing

Purify the Hair

Repair & Moisturizethe hair

Preparation

We will discuss

Formulation

Thin Sectioning Application

Proper Saturation

45 minutes

Timing

Timing can vary up or down depending on stylists desired out come. Remember that increasing the time increases

the deposit, decreasing time affects colors lasting

Softness & Shine Every time When washing use warm water, then Emulsify Color, Lastly rinse. Finished color

should be Soft, Shiny, & Healthy Looking after every single application

Seal & Protect Colors

SunSun tans skin but lightens hair?Why does it produce darkness on skin but lightness on hair

SkinThe sun destroys the melanin in your skin Since your skin is alive, it can respond to the sun’s damage by producing more melanin which in turn makes your skin darker

HairThe sun bleaches and destroys the melanin in your hair giving you lighter hair Since hair is dead, the hair will stay that color until new hair grows in

MIMIC THE SUN WITH YOUR LIFTING

FORMULATION

Shades of BrownNatural Hair Levels are different variations of the color Brown

.0 .6 .3

.07 .66 .33

.22 .44 .37

Tint Back =

Replace Pigment

Lifting =

Remove Pigment

Lightening Step 1

- =

Brown - Blue = Orange

Lightening Step 2

- =

Orange - Red = Blonde

Lightening Step 3

- =

Blonde - Yellow = Platinum

Remaining Pigments

Counteracting Unwanted Pigments

These pigments can be remaining pigments or existing unwanted pigments

Basic Lifting Formula

Equal Parts: 11 Series + 60 Volume

Basic Lifting Formula

11.1 = Blue 11.2 = Violet 11.23 = Beige 11.3 = Gold 11.53 = Mahogany Gold

Sometimes Underlying Pigment is too strong

As level rises Amount of Pigment Decreases

Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment

Level 11 Has very little tone.

11.2 has very little

Violetbut a lot of lifting

power

Level 9 Has more tone than

11.2 More Violet Pigment

but less liftingpower

Lifter Toner

Use Level 11for maximum

lift

AddAmplifierto helptone

Lifter Toner

Toning Lift FormulaStarter Formula:

Equal Parts: Color + Developer

1 3/4 part 11 Series 1/4 part Amplifier

+ 2 parts 60 Volume

The more 11 series the more lift but less

tone

The more amplifierthe less lift but more

tone

How Much Amplifier?

You Decide based on what you want

1.75 oz11 Series

.25 ozAmplifier

How Much Amplifier?

Start Conservative

Counteracting YellowWhen lifting lighter shades add 07 Blue Amplifier to cut yellow undertone in outcome

1.75 oz 11.2 Teinture + 0.25 oz 07 Amplifier + 2 oz 60 Volume

Counteracting Red UndertoneWhen lifting darker shades add 37 Green Amplifier to cut red undertone in outcome

For Natural Looking Carmel Highlights on Darker Bases

1.5 oz 11.2 Teinture + 0.5 oz 37 Amplifier + 2 oz 60 Volume

Accentuating RedWhen lifting into copper or red shades add 44 or 66 Amplifier to add copper

or red undertone to outcome or use 11.53 shade for natural warmth

1.5 oz 11.0 Teinture + 0.5 oz 44 Amplifier + 2 oz 40 Volume

Vary Developer Choice

for desired lift

Vary Color Selection and Amplifier

for desired look

Tips

Start Conservative then go crazy :)

For best professional results Always Tone

and / or seal your colors

Type of Toner depends on how bad the tone is

Use amplifiers in your formula to tone as you lift.

*Color Shampoo

Instantané as a toner by itself

Color Glaze Formula

Semi / Demi Toner Formula

Pre ToningAmplifiers in your formulas

Types of Formulas

All OxidativePermanent Dyes

Oxidative & Acidic Non Permanent

Dyes

Color Glaze1 oz Clear Gloss

1 oz Instantané shade

CG 5.65

5.34 5.34

Demi2 oz Instantané1 oz 20 Volume

1 oz Mastey Hair Color

5.34 5.34

Semi2 oz Instantané1 oz 10 Volume

1 oz Mastey Hair Color

Too Dark?Decolorize

Decolorize11.2 + 60 Volume

Timing and lift varies based on what you are lifting outCheck on lift every 5 minutes

Decolorizing Procedure

✤ Apply lifting mixture 1/8 inches above scalp and through the ends

✤ Apply product quickly

✤ Once you see color lightening in the mid shaft and ends, be ready to apply remaining mix to roots

✤ If your end result is in the blondes, start apply root mix when color starts lightening up

✤ If your end result is light brown to dark blonde wait to apply root mixture till the color has left the red orange stage

Decolorizing Process

✤ Results vary based on existing color history

✤ Results will be individual to each client

✤ Ability to lift is determined not only by the formula but by the clients color history, hair type, and room temperature

✤ For best results remind your client that this is a process that may take more than one application over a longer period of time.

MIMIC THE BODY WITH YOUR TINT BACK

FORMULATION

SkinThe sun destroys the melanin in your skin Since skin is alive, it can respond to the sun’s damage by producing more melanin. Now use your formulation to be like skin, your formula adds more pigments

Tint Backs = Lifting in ReverseWhen hair is lifted pigments are removed in a specific order and amount

When we Tint hair Back to brown, its our job to play nature to ensure results

Making Brown

BLUE RED YELLOW

Accentuating Left Over Pigments

These left over pigments can be remaining pigments or existing pigments.

Date

Date

Date

Date

First learn those….

Then Experiment…..

Modified Tint

FORMULA 11 oz - 4.0 Mastey Color1 oz - 4.6 Mastey Color2 oz - 4.34 Mastey Color

4 oz - 10 Volume

Application Time: A long time :)Processing: 45 minutes

Modified Tint

FORMULA 11 oz - 4.0 Mastey Color1 oz - 4.6 Mastey Color2 oz - 4.34 Mastey Color

4 oz - 10 Volume

Application Time: A long time :)Processing: 45 minutes

A Journey to Making Silver

Should be Silver and Blue based on the amount of 07…

1 part 9.1 2 part 9.1 Instantané

07 Amp 10 Volume

Silver Gray + Blue

Jen’s roots were Pre Lightened with Bleach then the formula was applied

Silver Gray + Blue => LT. BROWN

Jamie was not bleached, she was already blonde but had more yellow tint so it went brown and the light in the room affected the shade

When you are experimenting:

You may be right. But you could be wrong. Make Sure you test it :)

Strand test it :)

You are now smart enough to know...

That you should ask yourself questions

What questions to ask yourself

That there is no perfect solution to every problem

How to find an answer that works for you and your client based on your own questions

THE FINAL (PART 1)

• Pick 3 people

• Get signed model release form

• Take their before picture

• Explain how you would complete a total make over for them.

• Perform makeover (cut and color)

• Photograph Results

• Make sure to note your color formulas, color techniques, and an explanation of your cut

• We will provide product replacement

SOCIAL MEDIA

• Google My Business Page

• Salon Facebook Page

• Review Mastey Certification Program at:facebook.com/masteyhaircareClick the Stars you would like to give us and then write something nice :) about us.

• Testimonial Video or written about your use of our products, if you like them and why, and about the color certification program.

• We’ll send more details on each in an email

• Your invited to our Social Media Webinars and a Mastey Advanced Color Seminar at Mastey in California. Date: TBD (Fall/Winter 2015)

PROUD OF YOU!

I RESPECT YOU!

I AM GRATEFUL TO YOU!


Top Related