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Fromtop:courtesyHotelTomo;ChristinaMcNeill;JamesKnox.IllustrationbyJanKallwejt

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NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH

Japantown,SanFrancisco

DINNER &DRINKS At Dosaon Fillmore, inven-tive, spice-accentedcocktails like theBatsman (left), madewith gin, Darjeelingtea cordial, lemonjuice, and gingerbeer, play off theflavors in the restau-rant’s South Indiandishes. 1700 FillmoreSt., dosasf.com,cocktails from $9,entrées from $9.50.

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OLD-SCHOOLSPA There’s oftena wait for the com-munal sento-stylebaths at KabukiSprings & Spa, butguests who booka treatment—optionsrange from facialsand massages toacupuncture—canskip the line for thehot and cold pools,steam room, andsauna. 1750 GearyBlvd., kabukisprings.com, one-day accessto the baths from $22,treatments from $65.

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NO-FAIL NIGHTSPOT5

Underscoring theneighborhood’s rise,Yoshi’s, a Bay Areainstitution since 1973,chose to open itsnewest jazz-and-sushijoint just outsideJapantown. The out-post has consistentlydrawn crowds with itsbig-name performers

(Cassandra Wilson,Herb Alpert, Mos Def)as well as chef ShotaroKamio’s adventurousrecipes, like sashimiwith grapefruit, juli-enned potatoes, andlemon oil. 1330 Fill-more St., yoshis.com,sushi rolls from $6,cover from $5.

Right in the center of the city,hypermodern updates are takinghold in this century-old district.By Geraldine Campbell

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ONE-STOPSHOPPINGThe 2-month-old NewPeople cultural centerhouses a split-toetabi-style shoe retailerfrom Kyoto, a theaterthat screens Japa-nese films, a café thatsells bento boxes, anda gallery that showswork from artists likeFinal Fantasy designerYoshitaka Amano.1746 Post St., newpeopleworld.com.

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FASHIONGOLD MINEFloral minidresses,playful graphic-print tops, and edgystructured jacketsfrom hard-to-findwomen’s clothinglabels fill the racks atBoutique Harajuku,in the Miyako Mall.Warning: The mostlyEuropean and Asiandesigns run small. 22Peace Plaza, Suite 522,boutiqueharajuku.com, tops from $65.

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ART HOTEL1

Rooms at the geek-chic Hotel Tomo pairminimalist furniturewith anime muralsby Japanese artistHeisuke Kitazawa.The two PlayersSuites, each of whichsleeps five, comewith PS3 and Wiigaming consoles,

LCD projectors witheight-foot-widescreens, and oversizebeanbags. In thelobby, a vendingmachine dispensessilk-screened GiantRobot tees. 1800 Sut-ter St., jdvhotels.com,rooms from $99, Play-ers Suites from $400.