ATHENS
ZORA O’NEILL
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Temple of Olympian Zeus (p116) PEL_1971/GETTY IMAGES ©
Plan Your TripWelcome to Athens ............4
Top Sights ............................6
Eating .................................10
Drinking & Nightlife ..........12
Shopping ............................14
Arts & Entertainment.......16
Museums & History ..........18
Activities & Events........... 20
For Free ..............................21
LGBTIQ+ ........................... 22
For Kids ............................. 23
Four Perfect Days ............ 24
Need to Know ................... 26
Athens Neighbourhoods .............. 28
Explore Athens 31Acropolis Area ................................... 33
Monastiraki & Psyrri ............................. 53
Syntagma & Plaka ...............................77
Kolonaki ............................ 99
Mets & Pangrati ........................ 115
Omonia & Exarhia ..........................127
Filopappou Hill, Thisio & Petralona ..........147
Gazi, Keramikos & Metaxourgio .................157
Worth a TripFaliro .................................170
Survival Guide 173Before You Go ................. 174
Arriving in Athens ........... 175
Getting Around ...............176
Essential Information .... 177
Language .........................182
Index ................................ 184
Special FeaturesAcropolis ........................... 34
Acropolis Museum ...........40
Ancient Agora .................. 54
Benaki Museum of Greek Culture ................. 100
Temple of Olympian Zeus ................ 116
National Archaeological Museum .......................... 128
Filopappou Hill ............... 148
Kerameikos ..................... 158
With equal measures of grunge and grace, Athens is a heady mix of history and edginess. Cultural and social life plays out amid, around and within ancient landmarks, and the magnificent Acropolis towers over all. There is crackling energy in galleries, political debates and street art. Go with a mind open to spontaneous discovery, and you will be rewarded.
Welcome to Athens©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
View from the Acropolis (p34) towards Lykavittos Hill (p103)ADRIENNE PITTS/LONELY PLANET ©
AcropolisAn icon of Western civilisation. p34
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Acropolis MuseumThe Parthenon at eye level. p40
Ancient AgoraThe heart of classi-cal Athens. p54
Benaki Museum of Greek CulturePrivate mansion turned public treasure. p100
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National Archaeological MuseumGreece’s finest classical treasures. p128
KerameikosA cemetery reveals ancient life. p158
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Filopappou HillAncient history and green space. p148
Temple of Olympian ZeusEmperor Hadrian’s biggest building project. p116
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Eating
Eating, drinking and talking is the main entertainment for Athenians. The cur-rent restaurant scene is vibrant, and some of the best cooking is found in just-slightly-modernised tavernas that showcase fresh produce and regional ingredients. Add in a culture of con-vivial alfresco dining, and no wonder meals tend to last for hours.
Restaurant TypesTavernas are neigh-bourhood anchors. A psarotaverna focuses on seafood; a hasapotaverna or psistaria does meat. Also casual, a mayirio specialises in home-style stews and baked dishes (mayirefta). More formal is the estiatorio, with cloth on the tables.
Casual ouzeries and mezedhopoleia both serve small plates with drinks. Souv-laki (aka kalamaki) is Athens’ favourite fast food; restaurants that do these grilled
meat skewers usually also do gyros (slivers of meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie).
What Looks GoodIn summer, an empty room doesn’t neces-sarily mean bad – it could just be that everyone is on the roof terrace or in the courtyard.
At mom-and-pop places, it’s normal to go into the kitchen to see the day’s dishes.
For other tips on ordering, see Menu Advice (p166).
Best Traditional GreekTelis Pork chops, grilled by a master. (p68)
Diporto Agoras Legendary cheap lunch spot near the central market. (p75)
I Kriti Super-rustic Cretan specialities. (p139)
Palia Athina Checked tablecloths: check. Perfect calamari: check. (p87)
Kalderimi A taste of the village downtown. (p86)
Atlantikos The freshest seafood, simply prepared. (p68)
Best MezedhesIvis Watch the Psyrri scene from a little table at this sweet corner bar-cafe. (p67)
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