FROM PAGE 31

‘Seeing the same bags in use it for a lifetime.’ Silva is one of agrowing flock of disillusioned fashionistas, turning to new channelsto pursue their love of accessories.

‘There’s been a backlash,’ saysStephanie Phair, vice president ofbusiness development at Portero.com,a luxury accessories auction site.‘They’ve been so coveted that theynow have mass appeal and havepushed themselves out of the market.Celebrities have been part of both theIt-bag’s rise, and decline.

It’s now obvious to everyone thatLindsey Lohan, Sienna Miller, LilyAllen, or any other celebrity isn’t carrying a Balenciaga Lariat or a YSLDowntown because they chose it. Thebag was probably one of many handedover for free.

Lily Allen regularly boasts about herflood of designer freebies and Siennagets sent up to 40 bags a month. Sowhere’s the cachet? Images of low-grade celebrities such as ParisHilton and Britney Spears (completewith unkempt make-up and tracksuit)have also tarnished their untouchability.

‘It’s like, if Britney is wearing it thenthey must be gifting it to everyone,’jokes Silva.

‘Brands are realising it’s not the bestform of publicity now,’ says Phair.‘They can’t control it,’ particularlywhen celebrities are known to spreadtheir bounty among friends, assistantsand even their cleaners on occasions.

Designer labels have responded tothe shift by broadening their accessories ranges. The It-bags arestill part of the terrain, but they arealso catering to more discreet clientswho love the label, but don’t want tobroadcast it to the world.

They are upping the exclusivity credentials by producing super-limited edition versions. This seasonLouis Vuitton launched a limitedrange of bags designed by artistRichard Prince. These, though moderately priced by Louis Vuittonstandards, at e1,800-e2,250, have beenmade in strictly small quantities toprotect their status.

MEANWHILE, for newmarkets such as the burgeoning billionairelandscape of the MiddleEast, Russia and China,

they have upped the ante of cult styleswith ultra-luxury versions in limitededitions.

In January, Burberry hit the headlines with the launch of its ownbudget-busting limited editione19,500 Warrior bag made from alligator skin. Similarly, last MarchLouis Vuitton launched the limited edition Tribute Patchwork bag made from 15 ofits previous styles for a whopping e29,355.

‘In terms of the recession,they are focusing on theirlong-term customers. Theones who the downturndoesn’t effect,’ saysPhair. Although, catering to these super-rich markets has its downsides, particularlywhere bling and statusoverrides fashion-sense.

‘If you place yourself where onlycertain groups canbuy the product,you are cateringto groups whodon’t necessar-ily have thebest style,’ saysKate Schelter, NewYork-based fashionconsultant who’s client rosterincludes Christian Lacroix, SaksFifth Avenue, Vanity Fair and ZacPosen.

Department stores and boutiques, meanwhile, have beenmoving the It-Bag phenomenonalong by injecting their own individuality to It-styles, throughtheir own versions.

For the past two Christmas seasons, Selfridges in London haslaunched exclusive designer bagranges in unique styles. Last season

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their range — dubbed Bejeweled —drew crowds for the limited editiongold McQueen Evie.

They’ve also begun exploring thelesser-known independent labels.Designers such as Kara Ross, MaryNorton, Zadig and Voltaire, Safor,Corto Moltedo and Devi Kroell arebecoming the new coveted names.

Others are curbing It-styles altogether. Luxury London boutiqueKoh Samui, which counts KeiraKnightley, Natalie Portman andKirsten Dunst among its fans, hasceased to stock Marc Jacobs Stams,Chloe Paddingtons, and BalenciagaLariats, focusing instead on less obvious styles by the designer brands.

THERE was so much overexposure, and so manycopies floating around, thatthey lost something,’ saysZoe Thorne, associate buyer

at the store. ‘In fashion terms, It-bagsdidn’t show any creativity.’

Concept store Augustina, launchedin London in March last year, hasalready made a name for itself forshunning designer brands in favour ofhip labels including Carlos Falchi,Treesje, and ex-Marc Jacobs designerJoy Gryson. The store has a loyal following including Yasmin le Bon andThandie Newton.

‘My clients look for longevity,’ saysowner and creative director CristinaBurgess. ‘Big brands are so mainstream now, they are not catering to the fashion-forward anymore. The fact that every seasonyou see the same bags in the sameadverts on the same celebrities is areal turn off, the market has becomeflooded.’

While in most instances the lust forIt-bags is waning, there is one excep-tion. The It-bag concept started withHermès in the Fifties with the Kelly(named after Grace Kelly), and hascontinued with the Birkin, theparagon of chic that still causes heartrates to rise among the sanest of fashion-lovers. So, what’s the secret?

‘Hermès make it difficult for anyoneto get anything,’ laughs Schelter.‘That’s how they control their image.Brand value is so linked to their asso-ciations. My friend lined up to buy aBirkin and was interviewed by thesales person before she could put hername on the list.

‘They asked her where she was staying, what hotel, a whole load ofquestions. They make you wait yearsto get one!’ adds Schelter, concluding:‘Getting an Hermès is like getting intoa private club.’

And if the It-bag is over, will wesee the lust transferring to anynew accessory? ‘It’s alreadyhappening,’ says Schelterwith the deadpan gravitas.‘Shoes.’

So what should bag-lovers be investing in this

year? ‘The look has to befunctional and classic —too much hardware orovert logos place theitem clearly within aspecific season,’ advisesPhair.

‘Good pieces aresome of the classicsthat retain theirvalue; Chanel, Her-mes come to mind.Bottega Venetakeeps its valuebecause thecraftsmanship isso good.

Valentino is also producing some good bagsthis season that are likely tobe good investment piecessince they coincide with hisretirement and peoplealways like to buy a piece of

history.’And if you’re loyal to the big

names, clutches are a hot styleat the moment, as are bags freefrom obvious branding — MiuMiu’s simple quilted Totes,Jimmy Choo’s blue shoppers,

YSL’s blue crocodile satchel. In the panel opposite, Lifestyle

presents some of the best.Fully armed: Sienna Millerweighed down with It-bagsPicture: BIG PICTURES.COM

Page 32 Daily Mail, Monday, March 10, 2008

LIFEstyleDaily Mail, Monday, March 10, 2008 Page 49

the same adverts on the same celebrities is a real turn-off’CLUTCHTOTERETRO BOWLING SHOPPER

Orange & white, £460,Kenzo, as before

Red quilted Nancy, £425,Smythson, 08705 211 311

Bright python, £615, VBH atBrowns, 020 7514 0039

Black patent with stars, £120,Tabitha, www.tabitha.uk.com

Gold pebble dash, £185, Zadig & Voltaire, 020 7730 1880

Purple with bow middle, £130,Furla, 020 7629 9827

Grey patent trim, £45, Oasis, 01865 881 986

Turquoise croc box,£300, Lancel.com

White ostrich skin, £3,099, Boss Black, 020 7554 5700

Plum suedestudded,£1,350,Burberry,07000 785 676

White withpurplepatenttrim, £490, ZufiAlexander,020 86961053

Metallicclasp,£1,050,YSL, asbefore

Raspberry suede, £750, Jimmy Choo, 020 7493 5858

Beige fairy tale, £2,820, Fendi, 020 7838 6288

Turquoise printed box clutch,£930, Missoni, 020 7352 2400

Fairy taleillustration,£1,050,Prada, 020 72350008

Lilacpythonbag£1,500,SergioRossi,020 78115950

Blue marineprint Jeannebag, £700,Goyard.com

CreamPriscilla,£840, CortoMaltedo atBrowns,0207 5140039

Pink withblack patenttrim, £720,ChristianLacroix, 0207730 1234

TheGraduate,£1,150,LouisVuitton,as before

Mushroomvintagecroc, £765, ZufiAlexander,as before

Brown withpockets &tassels,£425,Aspinal ofLondon,0808 1443302

Purple & blue patchwork, £1,280, Chloe, 020 7823 5348

Multifeathertie-dye,£1,560,Kenzo,020 72251960

Blue canvaswithorangedetail, £800,Chanel,020 74935040

Embroidered, £129, The JacksonTwins at Fenwick, 020 7629 9161

Green withpocketfront, £770,Tods, 0207493 2237

Purplesatchel,£355,Hogan,020 72456363

Sky bluewith zippedfront, £950,JimmyChoo, asbefore

Beige quilted, £720, Miu Miu at Net-a-Porter.com

Orange ethnic print, £965,Escada, 020 7245 9800

Yellow bag, £700, BrunoFrisoni, 020 7518 0680

Black withstuddedbutterflyshoulderbag, £245,Zadig &Voltaire,020 77301880

Red &purpledrawstring,£475, MiuMiu, 0207409 0900

White, yellow and purple, £1,045,Kenzo, 020 7225 1960

BlueTribute,£1,050,YSL, 0207235 6706

Styl

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Brown Bratbag, £850,Safor,www.safor.co.uk

Three tone,£380, Marni atBrowns, 0207514 0039

Fire BirdRichardPrince bag,£2,400, LouisVuitton, 0207399 4050