Download - Types of Needles and Sewing Thread
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Lecture # 14
Type of Needles; theirimportance and sewing
thread
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Needles Parts
The Shank
The Shoulder
The Blade Long Groove
Short Groove
The Eye The Point and the Tip
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Needle Parts
Short Groove:This groove is at the side of the needle and above and below the eye assists inloop formation
The Eye:
The most critical part, since its shape ensures low friction between the needleand the sewing thread and also proper loop formation. In some needles the eyeis larger then the thickness of the working part of the needle, to reduce thefriction between the needle and the thread. But it has its drawbacks with delicatefabrics where some times needle holes are visible
The PointThis is the most important since the shape of the point is directly related to the
type of fabric. Its selection is critical since it could be the source of damagingseam lines and cutting/fraying of fabric
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Design Features of
Needle
Needles can help in
Reducing puckering
Reducing Fabric damage
Reducing Needle Heating
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Needle Size
Needles are available invarious sizes and the choiceof size is determined by thefabric and thread to be
used
Correct size is essential forbetter sewing performance
The size is the thickness ofthe needle at the centerpoint
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Needle Size if not conformed
Needle small for the thread: It will not pass through the needle, even if it does there would be
excessive abrasion, hence thread breakages Operator will have to re-thread the machine and repair the seam
Fine needle for heavy plies: Will cause the needle to be deflected or distorted Resulting is slippage and skip stitches Resulting in needle breakage
Larger Needle for the thread:
Puckering due to fabric distortion Large needle holes and damage fabric appearance along seamlines
Slippage of stitches
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Needle Size if not conformed
Bent Needle Cause slip and poor seam appearance Mainly due to operator negligence Incorrect needle size
Burred orD
amageN
eedle point Can cause fabric damage in woven which will cause abraided or fluffy seams In Knitted fabric it can cut the loop giving rise to ladder effect.
Adequate Time to Change Needles: Needle some times have to be changed in rear heavy fabric situations after
every 2-4 hours
Needle Points: Different Needle points are used for different fabrics and an undesirable
needle point can also cause damage to the fabric.
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Needle Points
There are two sub classes
1. Cutting Points
2. Cloth Points
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Cutting PointN
eedles Used for Leather or
Plastic (sheetingmaterials)
These materials haveno gaps in the surface
The needle point mustbe designed to cut thesurface forpenetration
Cut point needleshave sharp tips
Are available in widevariety of cross-sectional shape
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Cloth PointN
eedles Used for sewing textile materials
Other words used in sewing materials which
have spaces between them
The points have round cross-sectionalshape
Main selection criteria of the needle is thematerial it is used on either woven orknitted
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Cloth PointN
eedles Knitted fabrics have an inherent problem of
unraveling and ladder effect if a loop is broken
The criteria is to use a needle which could slightlydeflect the loops and penetrate the fabric avoiding todamage the fabric
The best possible shape to be use for knitted fabric isthe ball point needle
Ball Point needles come in different sizes Light-Medium-Heavy. Depending upon the fabric thickness
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Cloth PointN
eedles Woven fabrics have yarns interlacing with various
densities
A Set point needle is used
For greater strength and better penetration
Due to natural spaces in woven fabrics the needledoes not require to make spaces
As long as it does not damage or break the warp orthe weft
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Needle Material
Steel
Polished
Electroplated due to better corrosiveresistance
Also plating is done by nickel or
chromium Chromium is preferred