DPF Delete Pipe InstallationStep by Step by Chirpz

This takes 3-4 hours depending your your skill and tools. You will need basicmetric wrenches, a delete pipe, some coffee, and a CRD Jeep. As you can see,I am a “Road Mechanic” and I work in the middle of the road.

This is what a DPF Delete pipe should look like. Take it to your local carparts store and buy some gaskets for each end. Let the parts guy justtake his best guess and don't expect a perfect fit with the holes. You may noteven need the gaskets. I ended up using the Fel-Pro 61310 in the back.

Run your Jeep up onto some blocksor jack it up as you like. Make itvery secure.

If you have a “belly guard”, you will have to remove the part that covers the DPFFilter. 4X Guard comes off with 4 bolts.

Bolts

Now you can see the DPF. You will need to remove these three nuts in the front.I sprayed mine TWO days in advance with penetrating oil so I had no problems.

Nuts

Pita Nut

Don't removeThis!!! It isThe O2 Sensor.

The O2 sensor gets in the way of thePITA nut. If you use a ratcheting boxend wrench it really helps. Damagethe sensor and you will pay. The nutcomes off ONE click at a time.

13mm ratcheting box end wrench.Loosen the nut with a regular wrench, then use this to get it off or just do it your way

At the rear end of the pipe, remove these two nuts.

This is the DPF. Isn't it pretty.

If you do NOT have belly armor, you might find it easier to remove this mainbrace. Since I have full armor, I left this alone.

At the front and at the rear of theDPF, remove the sensor connectors.They are just empty fittings.

Do not remove the oxygen sensor,previously shown. It is a few inchesin front of the DPF. The correct pipesare mounted directly ON the DPF.

Remove this hanger bracket that holdsThe rear exhaust pipe. It allows thePipe to sag downward.

I suppose you could justjerk the prongs out ofthe rubber mount butI did not want to damagethe rubber mount.

I chose to remove this hanger bracket too. It is way up there and the bolts are veryhard to get off because the DPF is in the way. If you remove this bracket the DPF justfalls off (almost.) Other wise it is a wrestling match to get it off. So it is worth it toremove the bracket.

The prong on the new pipe is slightly smaller and fits loosely. I wrapped mine with two layers of electrical tape to make it a tighter fit.

Some people grind the inside of the pipe for abetter fit. I did not.

View of Front

And

Rear connection points

O2 Sensordo not damage.

I also chose to remove this heatshield. It is in the way and youno longer need it.

Replace the upper hanger bracket. This is pretty easy with the DPF removedand the heat shield out of the way.

Slide the new pipe over the main brace working from the rear. Slip the prong intothe top hanger. Slip the back of the pipe over the studs Replace the rear hanger bracket that you removed earlier so that the exhaust pipe comes up were it belongs.Leave the bracket loose for now so you have wiggle room. Use thread locker and put two nuts onto the rear connection but do not tighten.

You may have to use aC Clamp to make the rearjoint come together enoughto attach the nuts. Leave thenuts loose for now.

Wrestle the front connector into placeand attach the three bolts. Leavethem loose for now.

I taped up the pipe connectors to seal the ends and then securedthe long one with a zip tie. I'll have to check it periodically. There areprobably better ways to deal with the pipes but I got lazy.

Now go over everything and tighten every nut and bolt EVENLY. Don't let the flanges at either end tighten down on a slant. Makeeverything real tight, using hand wrenches. Sorry I don't knowthe torques. Tighten both hanger brackets now.

Install your software before you start the engine or you mayget a code. I use GDE Eco Tune with DPF Delete.

Start your engine and let your pipe warm up for a little while....not too hot.Now go back down and re- tighten everything and check for leaks whileIt is running.

I had NO leak in the front and a small leak in the back. I decided to use agasket in the back. I bought my gaskets at NAPA. This one worked perfectin the back.

To easily install the gasket, remove the two nuts on the rear flange.

Using scissors, cut the gasket so that the holes become notches thatwill slip around the bolts without having to separate the flanges. Pry theflanges apart a small amount and slip the gasket into place making sure thenotches engage the bolts.

Use a C-Clamp again if necessary. Replace the nuts and tighten them evenly.Restart the Jeep and check for leaks.

If you have a leak in front, follow a similar procedure.

Notch the edges so that the gasketwill slip into place without removingthe pipe again.This is a Fel-Pro 61310

Replace 4X Guard Belly Armor! New delete pipe is visible behind it.

What's all the fuss? In the old days when cars were simple machines, we usedto stuff a potato up a friend's exhaust pipe for a joke. The car would sputter and hissand sometimes blast the potato out. Other times the car would just choke out. Today,potatoes come pre-installed from the factory in the form of Catalytic converters andDiesel Particulate Filters. This is what one looks like as you stare down its throat. Getrid of that, and your rig should run better.

I track and chartmy mileage verycarefully. Whena DPF regen hits, I get 3-5 mpg less forthat tank of fuel because extra fuel is used to burn the carbon out of the filter.