Drafting Patterns For Women's PantsThis lesson shows how the patterns for the basic pants are drafted according to the Scandinavian pattern drafting system. You can read instructions for making alterations to the patterns to make different styles of pants clicking here There you'll find instructions for pleated pants, Bermudas, jeans and casual pants without side seam.  Follow the pictures as you read the instructions.

MEASURING

Click here to move to the measuring page. Read carefully the measuring instructions. To draft patterns for pants, you have to take the measurements listed in the table below. To keep the pictures clear and readable the measurements are given only in centimeters. You can change centimeters to inches using formula 1 cm = 0.4 inches.

ADDING EASE

You would not be able to wear the pants if the patterns were drawn exactly to your body measurements. Therefore you have to add ease to some of the measurements. The basic pants usually are a tight fitting garment  and therefore only a small amount of ease is added. 

ADD TO THE WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE: 2 cm  ADD TO THE HIP CIRCUMFERENCE: 4 cm  Do not add any ease to other measurements.

Write down the measurements in the table below.    

Body measurement

Body measurement + ease

WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE * +2 cm=

ABDOMEN CIRCUMFERENCE *

HIP CIRCUMFERENCE  (if your abdomen circumference is more than your hip circumference, use it for your hip circumference)

* + 4 cm=

CROTCH DEPTH *

ABDOMEN HEIGHT *

HIP HEIGHT *

OUTSIDE SEAM LENGTH *

KNEE CIRCUMFERENCE  The desired finished leg circumference at knee

*

CUFF CIRCUMFERENCE  The desired finished leg circumference at cuff

*

DO THE FOLLOWING CALCULATIONS: Round the measurements up to the nearest 0.5 cm.     

Body measurement + easeDivided by 8

Divided by 4

Divided by 20 = x

Waist circumference * *

Hip circumference * * * *

Knee circumference * *

Cuff circumference * *

DRAFTING THE PATTERNS

Draw a frame first.

Start by drawing a vertical line that corresponds to the outside seam length of the pants.

Draw a horizontal line at the top of the vertical line. This is the waist line of the pants.

Draw a horizontal line at the bottom of the vertical line. This is the cuff line of the pants.

Measure down from the waist line a distance equal to the abdomen height and draw a horizontal line. This is the abdomen line.

Measure down from the waist line a distance equal to the hip height and draw a horizontal line. This is the hip line.

Measure down from the waist line a distance equal to the crotch height and draw a horizontal line. This is the crotch line.

Find the point midway between the crotch line and the cuff line. Draw the horizontal knee line 6 cm above this point.

     

FRONT PIECE

Waist and dart 

Divide the waist circumference (+ ease) by 8. On the waist line, measure this distance to the left from the pants' center line. Mark this point as the center front point of the waist.

Divide the waist circumference (+ease) by 8 and add 3 cm. On the waist line, measure this distance to the right from the pants' center line. Mark this point as the side front point of the waist. Of the extra 3 cm, +2 cm is for the dart and +1 cm is to move the side seams 1 cm towards the back to prevent them from showing. The side point is raised by 1 cm.

On the waist line, measure  4.5 cm to the right from the pants' center line and start the front dart from there. Make the dart 2 cm wide. The dart extends from the waist line to the abdomen line. Draw the right side of the dart so that it forms a right angle where it meets the abdomen line.

Hip

Divide the hip circumference (+ ease) by 8 and subtract 2 cm. On the hip line, measure this distance to the left from the pants' center line. Mark this point as the center front point of the hip.

Divide the hip circumference (+ ease) by 8 and add 2 cm. On the hip line, measure this distance to the right from the pants' center line. Mark this point as the side front point of  the hip. 

Crotch

Draw a vertical line from the center hip point downwards to the crotch line and mark this point. From the marked point, measure x-1 cm to the left and mark. Mark this point as the tip of the front crotch curve.  X is calculated by dividing the hip circumference (+ ease) by 20.

Knee and cuff

Divide the desired knee circumference by 4 and subtract 1 cm. On the knee line, measure this distance to the left and to the right from the pants' center line. Mark these points as the knee points of the front pant. 

Divide the desired cuff circumference by 4 and subtract 1 cm. On the cuff line, measure this distance to the left and to the right from the pants' center line. Mark these points as the cuff points of the front pant.

Now you are ready to draft the front piece pattern. Follow the points that you have marked according to the above instructions. If the difference of the waist and the abdomen/hip circumference is a lot, there may be a disturbing angle at the side seam at the abdomen line. In such a case round the line a bit outwards between the waist and the abdomen line (not marked in the picture). Curve the inseam  a bit inwards between the crotch and

the knee (not marked in the picture). 

Draft the facing for the zipper, 3 cm wide and 18-20 cm high (according to the length of the zipper you are going to use),  at the top of the front pant's center line .   

BACK PIECE 

Draft the back piece pattern in the same frame with the front piece. 

Waist points of the center back  and the side back seam

Draw a small rectangle, 1.5 cm wide and x-1.5 cm high, to the left starting at the top of the pants' center line (drawn in red in the picture). Mark the top left corner of this rectangle as the waist point of the back center seam.

Divide the waist circumference by 4, add  2.5 cm and subtract 1 cm. Trace this distance from the  previous point towards the waist line at side raised by 1 cm (as in the front) (drawn in cyan in the picture below). Of the distance +2.5 cm is for the dart and -1 cm is to move the side seams backwards (the corresponding amount was added to the front waist). Mark the intersection of this line and the waist line (raised by 1 cm, as for the front) as the waist point of the back side seam. 

Hip points of the center back and side back seams

Draw another rectangle, x+1 cm wide and x-1.5 cm high, to the left from the intersection of the hip line and the pants' center line. Mark the top left corner of this rectangle as the hip point of the  back center seam.

Divide the hip circumference by 4. Trace this distance from the previous point towards the hip line at side (drawn in blue in the picture below). Mark the

intersection of this line and the

hip line as the hip point of the back side seam. 

Back crotch 

Measure a distance of x-1 cm to the left from the tip of the front crotch curve and 1-1.5 cm downwards from it. Mark this point as the tip of the back crotch curve.  X is calculated by dividing the hip circumference (+ ease) by 20. 

The knee and the cuff points of the back pant 

Mark these points 2 cm to the left and to the right from the corresponding points of the front pant. 

Now you are ready to draft the back piece pattern. Follow the points that you have marked according to the above instructions. Draft a smooth line from the waist point to the hip point. The abdomen line of the back

pant starts from the intersection of the back side line and the frame abdomen line and is parallel to the hip line of the back pant. 

Draw the back center seam smoothly according to the picture. Back dart is 2,5 cm wide. Place it at the midpoint of the back waistline. Vertically the back dart extends to the midpoint between the abdomen and the hip height.    

Note : Please notice that the back piece inseam length measured  from the crotch to the knee is  to be 1-1.5 cm shorter than that of the front inseam. The reason for this is that it reduces the amount of fabric under the buttocks in order to achieve a better fit of the back pant. You must stretch the back inseam from the crotch to the knee when attaching it to the front inseam. 

Sewing instructions are also included in this web-site. To view them click here . 

SEWING SKIRT

Cut waist band on fold. 

Sew front and back darts (Picture 1a).Iron them towards center front and back. Sew center back seam between the zipper and the back slit. Baste seams of zipper and back placket. Sew back slit according to general   sewing instructions (Picture 2b) attach zipper according to general   sewing instructions (Picture 2c).  Sew and overlock side seams (Picture 2d).

Fold seam allowances of the slit of the lining inwards and edgestitch (Picture 3e).

Overlock back seam. Baste back seam from top to where the end of the zipper will be, and sew from there to slit hole (Picture3f). Press back seam open and remove zipper-basting stitches.  Edgestitch zipper slit. 

Fold waist darts of the lining to form soft pleats and pin (Picture 3g).  Sew and overlock side seams of the lining.  Fold seam allowance for hem inside twice and sew.  Make sure that the lining will be about an inch (a couple of centimeters) shorter than the skirt when both are done. 

Place lining inside skirt and pin at waist, wrong side against wrong side and side seams matching.  Easestitch waist with normal seam allowance, using your machine's longest stitches to attach lining to skirt.  Tighten or loosen waist easestitching so that waistband fits to skirt waist.  The result should have no gathers or wrinkles. Attach waist band according to general   sewing instructions . Fold skirt hem allowance and blindstitch with machine or by hand. Sew buttonhole and attach button. 

SEWING PANTS  

Cut waist band on fold. 

Sew front and back darts (Picture 1a).  If you are sewing a pleated version, fold front pleats soft and pin or baste them at top.  Sew and overlock back center seam with elastic stitching, if possible (Picture 1b).  Overlock front center seam and edges of zipper placket (Picture 1a) Sew front center seam from inside seam to where zipper placket begins (Picture 1d).  attach zipper according to general   sewing instructions . 

Cut front piece pocket corner off, don't forget to add seam allowance. Put a reinforcing strip of non-elastic fabric (not included in pattern) into the seam to prevent pocket mouth from stretching during use.  Place under pocket (lining) along slacks front piece's pocket line, right  sides together, and sew. Turn under pocket (lining) inside and edgestitch pocket mouth (Picture 1e).  Sew another row of stitches at presser foot's width from the first row of stitches.

Place pocket corner pieces under pocket lining with round edges matching (Picture 2f ).  Sew and overlock them together, leaving pocket mouth open (Picture 2g ). 

Place front and back sections of slacks on top of each other, right sides together.  Sew and overlock side seams (Picture 3h ).  Sew and overlock leg seams from cuff to cuff (Picture 3i). 

attach waistband according to general   sewing instructions .  Fold cuff seam allowances inwards and blindstitch with machine or by hand. 

If you want to put a lining in the slacks, cut lining pieces using the slacks patterns and sew them without pockets.  attach lining to slacks at waistband seam when attaching waistband.  Handsew lining at edges of zipper placket.  You can also line only the front pieces of slacks.  Or sew facing to front pieces only at knee for a distance of about 10 cm up and down from knee. attach lining to seams when sewing the seams.    

SEWING PULLOVER 

 

Sew and overlock shoulder and side seams (Picture 1).  Iron interfacing to front and back neck facings. Sew and overlock shoulder seams of neck facing (Picture 2).  Place neck facing on pullover, neck right sides together, and sew with normal seam allowance (Picture 3).  Notch seam allowances at intervals of about 3/4 inch.  Turn facing inside pullover and press.  Edgestitch from right side, or sew only through garment and facing seam allowances near fold line.  attach facing to shoulder seams by hand with small stitches. 

Easestitch sleeve caps along seam line.  Sew and overlock sleeve seams (Picture 4).

Turn sleeve right side out and pullover wrong side out.  Place sleeve inside pullover (right sides together) so that sleeve shoulder mark matches with pullover shoulder seam and sleeve seam matches with pullover side seam (Picture 5).  Pull ends of ease stitching along sleeve cap to adjust ease.  Sew along ease stitching and overlock sleeve to pullover.  If there tends to be too much ease in sleeve cap

(some fabrics tolerate more ease than others do), place sleeve lower at armpit.  There should be no wrinkles at cap seams when done. 

Fold hem and sleeve cuff allowances inside and sew with twin needle on  right side of pullover (Picture 6).  Cut excess fabric from inside near stitch line. 

SEWING DRESS 

Sew and overlock vertical seams at front and back pieces.  Overlock back center seam (use at least 3/4 inch or 2 cm seam allowance to leave room to attach zipper). Sew back seam from neck to zipper, baste for length of zipper, sew seam to back slit and baste along length of slit. 

Sew slit according to general   sewing instructions .  attach invisible zipper according to general   sewing instructions . 

Continue according to instructions for sewing blouse.  Blindstitch hem and sleeve ends, however, with machine or by hand. 

SEWING BLOUSE

     Fold front edge's seam allowances (1 cm) inwards and baste (Picture 1).  Fold again, but now with right side inside along button extension fold line and stitch button extension across top and bottom edges (Picture 2). 

If you are going to sew convertible collar to blouse, stitch top end from fold only to center front, and cut seam allowance diagonally there.  Turn button extension to the wrong side of the blouse and sew along folded edge of seam allowance on

wrong side.

Sew and overlock front dividing seams (Picture 3).  Sew back shoulder and waist darts (Picture 4).  Sew and overlock shoulder seams. 

attach collar according to general   sewing instructions .  Sew convertible collar beginning from front center, and shirt collar with band beginning from edge of button extension (fold).

Sew and overlock side seams.

Cut sleeve slits at sleeve ends. Overlock slit edges, turn inwards and edgestitch. Continue to attach the sleeve cuffs according to general sewing instructions

Easestitch sleeve cap at distance of normal seam allowance and continue sewing and attaching the sleeves according to sewing instructions of pullover above. Sew and attach sleeve cuffs according to general sewing instructions .

Fold hem allowance twice and sew.  Sew buttonholes and buttons on center front and sleeve cuffs. 

SEWING SHIRT

(see picture for blouse) Sew according to sewing instructions for blouse.  Shirt, however, does not have front dividing seams or back darts. 

SEWING JACKET  

Iron fusible interfacing to under collar, front and back facings, sleeve cap and button plackets, upper part of the front and back pieces, hem seam allowance and pocket flaps (Picture 1a).

Cut upper collar 0.5 cm larger at outer edge than under collar.  This will help collar to turn in to its proper position. 

Use the pattern pieces as a guide in cutting lining pieces. Note that as in the illustration (Picture 4a), you need to add a pleat extension to the back lining.  This extension is not given in the pattern. 

Sew and overlock front princess seams (Picture 1b). Sew pockets to front pieces according your styling preferences (see general   instructions ). Sew and overlock all other vertical seams of the shell ( Picture 1c ). Edgestitch if desired.

 

Sew upper and under collar together at edges, right sides together, (Picture 2a).  Trim seams and cut seam allowance at corners. 

Turn collar right side out and press.  Edgestitch if desired.  Sew collar to jacket's neck collar with center back matching jacket back center seam and collar edges matching notch marks at lapels (Picture 2b). 

Easestitch sleeve cap at distance of normal seam allowance with the longest stitch of your sewing machine (Picture 3a). Sew sleeve under seams of the (Picture 3b).  This is the seam that will go between arm and body when the jacket is worn.   Sew sleeve upper seams from top to where button placket begins (Picture 3c), and from there around placket at distance of normal seam allowance (Picture 3c).  Baste placket fold line (Picture 3d). Fold sleeve cuffs' seam allowance inside and sew with invisible stitches. If you are sure that the length of the sleeves is correct, sew buttons to sleeve button plackets through all thicknesses of material. 

Turn sleeve right side out and jacket wrong side out.  Place sleeve inside jacket (right side against right side) so that sleeve shoulder mark matches with jacket shoulder seam and seam between the two sleeve pieces matches with jacket side seam. Pull on easestitching in sleeve cap to adjust cap ease.  Sew and overlock sleeve cap to jacket.  If there tends to be too much ease in sleeve cap (some fabrics tolerate more ease than others do), place sleeve lower at armpit.  There should be as much ease as possible but no wrinkles at cap seams when done. 

To get instructions of how to use a facing at sleeve head to make a perfectly shaped sleeve cap, please read

 

Cut extra width to upper part of lining's back (Picture 4a). 

Sew and overlock all vertical seams of the lining right sides together (Picture 5a).  Zigzag back neck facing to the neck of back lining with lining's  wrong side against linings right side (Picture 5b). Fold hem inside twice and sew (Picture 5c). 

Attach jacket's front facing to lining's front edges, right sides together (Picture 5d ) Overlock.

Sew and attach sleeves to lining as you did to jacket. 

To join jacket and lining, place them on top of each other, right sides together.  Put collar between jacket and lining.

Start at point marked with number 1 and sew continuously as follows, refer to Picture 6:

cross front facing hem (2),

along one front edge (3),

along lapel edges (4) and

front neckline edges (5),

along back neckline (6)

and then the same way along the other front edge (7-8) and

finally across other front facing hem. Stop at point marked with number 9. 

Cut seam allowance at starting point of lapels and neck seam at intervals of 3/4 inch (2 cm). Cut corners diagonally.  Turn lining inside jacket.  Open seams and press well.  Edgestitch if desired.

Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons.  Do final pressing.