dupont industrial biosciences' biobased enzymes offer sustainable textile solutions

Enzymatic Preparation: D l t f E h d P f & S t i bilitDevelopments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability

A collaborative approach by Cotton Inc. and DuPont to integrate and optimize enzymatic processing in knits

Mary‐Ann Ankeny Director Dyeing Research @ Cotton Incorporated, Cary (NC) USANico van Schoot Marketing Manager @ DuPont Industrial BioSciences, Leiden NL

“Great Ideas in Cotton” – Hongkong, 22 May 2012

Agenda

• Introduction DuPont Industrial BioSciences• Enzymes for Textiles• Full Enzymatic Textile Processing (FETP), a new concept for sustainable textile

processing• Cotton Inc. study FETP on knits

2Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability

DuPont Industrial BioSciences

W l i i t fi d l ti t j h llWe are applying our science to find solutions to major challenges…

FEEDING THE WORLD REDUCING OUR DEPENDENCE ON FOSSIL FUELS

KEEPING PEOPLE AND THE ENVIRONMENT SAFE


Textile enzymes today..


PrimaGreen® enzymesEnzymes:Enzymes:

• are biodegradable

• are made from renewable resources

• can replace corrosive chemicals

• can lower use of water and energy

PrimaGreen® enzyme products for textiles & garments:

• lower processing temperatures decrease energy consumption & CO2 emissions

• allow combined processing decrease water consumptionp g p

• work at neutral pH gentle & safer processing conditions

• are substrate specific reduce fabric damage & weight loss


Full enzymatic textile processing

… at neutral pH & mild temperature conditions.


Agenda

• Introduction DuPont Industrial BioSciences• Enzymes for Textiles• Full Enzymatic Textile Processing (FETP), a new concept for sustainable textile

processing• Cotton Inc. study FETP on knits


Minimizing pH Adjustments

C i l E iConventional Scour/Conventional Bleach

Dye FixationDye FixationCellulase Inactivation

Conventional Enzymatic

Acid Cellulase

Incoming WaterNeutralizationIncoming Water Neutralization

Neutralization

Neutral Cellulase/ Dye Exhaustion

Dye Exhaustion

Enzymatic Scour/ Enzymatic Bleach

Acid Cellulase

Each pH adjustment increases:• processing time• chemical usage• potential for fabric damage


potential for fabric damage

Whiteness Index – Bleached Goods

ConventionalEnzymatic

Standard Formula Alternative Formula

InterlockGarment Scale 77.21 66.4 75.17Full Scale 75.26 68.88

lJersey

Garment Scale 75.17 62.39 71.76Full Scale 73.89 65.84

• The goods bleached with the standard enzymatic formula did not match the level of whiteness of conventionallydid not match the level of whiteness of conventionally bleached goods.

• The difference in whiteness level did not have a significant impact on the color of dyed goodssignificant impact on the color of dyed goods.

• The whiteness level can be increased by adjusting the enzymatic formula if a higher degree of whiteness is required.


q

Process Comparison – Dark ShadeTotal Time: 389T t l Fill 13Total Fills: 13

Total Time: 266Total Fills: 7


Process Comparison – Medium ShadeTotal Time: 413T t l Fill 14Total Fills: 14



Process Comparison – Light ShadeTotal Time: 350T t l Fill 13Total Fills: 13



Sustainability – Water, Steam, and Energy

PROCESS Time (mins) Water used (l) Steam Used (lbs) Power (kWH)

Dark Shade (Reactive Dye)Conventional 415 14436 412.81 20Enzymatic 318 2371 331.26 15% I t 23% 84% 20% 25%% Improvement 23% 84% 20% 25%

Medium Shade (Reactive Dye)Conventional 506 17063 532.86 25Enzymatic 369 6329 354.14 18% Improvement 27% 63% 34% 28%% Improvement 27% 63% 34% 28%

Light Shade (Direct Dye)Conventional 443 15298 519.35 22Enzymatic 309 5756 288.04 16% Improvement 30% 62% 45% 27%% Improvement 30% 62% 45% 27%


Fabric Testing – Dark Shade (Reactive)Fabric Performance

Weight (oz/yd2) Burst Strength(psi) Pilling

InterlockFull Scale

Conventional 5.8 93.1 4.7Enzyme 5.6 103.7 3.9

Garment ScaleConventional 7.2 90.9 5.0

Fabric Performance

Enzyme 7.0 87.4 4.9

JerseyFull Scale

Conventional 5.3 95.3Enzyme 5.8 93.4

Garment ScaleConventional 6.6 89.6Enzyme 6.5 86.5

DEcmc %STR‐WSUM

Garment ScaleInterlock 0.26 97.86Jersey 0 30 100 37

Color Measurement

Jersey 0.30 100.37

Full ScaleInterlock 0.30 97.52Jersey 0.38 97.04

Color measurement data are the results from comparing the enzymatically processed goods to their conventionally processed


enzymatically processed goods to their conventionally processed counter part.

Fabric Testing – Medium Shade (Reactive)Fabric PerformanceFabric Performance


InterlockFull Scale


Garment ScaleConventional 6.7 89.5 5.0Enzyme 6.4 75.6 5.0

JerseyFull Scale


Garment ScaleConventional 6.4 89.1Enzyme 6.4 87.9

Color MeasurementDEcmc %STR‐WSUM

Garment ScaleInterlock 0.22 97.46Jersey 0 19 99 27Jersey 0.19 99.27



Fabric Testing – Light Shade (Direct)Fabric PerformanceFabric Performance


InterlockFull Scale


Garment ScaleConventional 6.7 91.6 5.0Enzyme 6 7 99 8 4 9Enzyme 6.7 99.8 4.9

JerseyFull Scale


Garment ScaleConventionalEnzyme

Color MeasurementDEcmc %STR‐WSUM

Garment ScaleInterlock 0.74 111.67Jersey

Color measurement data from the garment scale and full scale trials are inconsistent

Jersey



are inconsistent.

• Ability to combine processes to reduce

SummaryAbility to combine processes to reduce inputs

• Performance• Performance– Instantaneous wettingG d hi l– Good whiteness values

– Mote removal– Strength and weight maintained – Light, medium and dark shades possible

Enzymatic Preparation: Developments for Enhanced Performance & Sustainability 17

Full enzymatic textile processing


dupont industrial biosciences' biobased enzymes offer sustainable textile solutions

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