earnshaw's | june 2012

INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW

Licensing

JUNE 2012 $5.00

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TO ORDER, PLEASE CONTACT:[email protected] or 212-391-4143

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EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) Vol. 96 Issue 5. The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing o!ces. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2012 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

Noelle Heffernan Publisher

Jennifer Cattaui

Nancy Campbell

Angela Velasquez

Mary AvantLyndsay McGregor

Maria Bouselli

Trevett McCandliss

Tim Jones

Michel Onofrio

Caroline Diaco

Sarah Sutphin Broglie

Alex Marinacci

Jennifer Craig

Maureen Johan

Laurie Guptill

Melanie Prescott

Mike Hoff

Sales/Editorial Offices

Circulation Office

Xen ZapisLee ZapisRich Bongorno

JUNE 2012 FEATURES 22 9 Million Lives

26 In Character

30 Perfect Fit

FASHION 34 We Are One

4 6 8 Fresh Finds 10 12 14 18 20 44 47 48

Sweater and blouse by Ralph Lauren, B-Karo jeans. On cover: Levi's by Haddad jean jacket and button-down shirt, Hitch-Hiker sweater vest and pants. Photography by Christophe Kutner.

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LICENSED APPAREL HAS always fascinated me, and this month, we delved deeper into this burgeoning segment of the children’s market. It’s clear that the licensing world is enor-mous, and brand building is at the forefront as licensed enter-tainment properties proliferate in the digital space. Whether a license gains appeal through a TV program, book series, movie or gaming app, it seems as if children’s appetites for new characters have never been so strong or so diverse. This creates great opportunities for brand-builders who can reach into a multitude of channels to drive sales and make efficient supply chains to support product lines á la NBC Universal’s breakout hit, Fashion Star.

For our June licensing issue, we uncover opportunities specialty retailers can cash in on, including incorporating licensed properties that are in line with a store’s boutique nature and product mix. With a greater array of licenses creating boutique-appropriate goods, retailers can home in on those that best fit their clientele’s affinities. One prop-erty that’s ostensibly universal is Hello Kitty. We got to sit down with Sanrio’s new chief operating officer, Janet Hsu, and discuss the phenomenon that is Hello Kitty and its recent entrance into the infant/toddler market. The feline, which was born out of a contest during an economic down-turn in the ’70s, has grown into a $5-billion powerhouse, targeting every demographic through products hitting high, low and mid-market. But that cat isn’t the only game in town. Our trend pages focus on the unstoppable Disney

empire (No. 1 in retail revenues among license holders at $37.5 billion), team sports goods and character-driven children’s books. We also cast our spotlight on activewear company Limeapple, as well as nostalgic retro brand, KangaRoos, a footwear property that has been given a makeover by shoe hotshots Shawn and Shane Ward.

For our striking fashion story—“We Are One”—we move beyond character licensing and celebrate designer brands that have expanded their range through contracts with licensees entrusted to articulate their brand values and attributes. From DKNY and Junior Gaultier to Levi’s and Timberland, licensees like Haddad and Parigi Group are designing looks that are suitable for any kid with a pen-chant for preppy.

The global undertone of our fashion story also mimics the increasing globalization of the licensed apparel market and the rest of the industry to boot. As trade becomes more fluid and opportunities arise for retailers and manufacturers, we want to consider the similarities and differences between us in readying our businesses for the global landscape.

Enjoy,

EDITOR’S LETTER

Characters, bands, sports teams and fashion labels rule the licensed apparel world.License to Sell

JENNIFER CATTAUIEditor in Chief, Earnshaw’s

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! For 35 years, Earnshaw’s has recognized outstanding companies with the prestigious Earnie Award. Nominated and voted upon by industry leaders, Earnie Awards denote the retail community’s seal of approval in areas like design, quality and overall excellence. Until June 30, we will be taking nominations for top companies in 20 different categories on www.earnieawards.com. Let the nominations begin.

Best Denim

Best Licensed Apparel

Best Swimwear

Best Hosiery

Best Footwear

Best Accessories & Jewelry

Best Special Occasion Wear

Best Infants’ Collection

Best Girls’ Collection

Best Boys’ Collection

Best Tween Collection

Best Gift Item

Best New Company (1-3 years)

Best Company for Good

Best International Collection

Best Swim Collection

Best Outerwear Collection

Best Brand Rep

“It” Item of the Year

Company of the Year

VOTING CATEGORIES

EarnieAwards

EARNSHAW ’S MAGAZINE

Nominations begin April 30, 2012, at 11:59 p.m. EST and end on June 30, 2012, at 11:59 p.m. EST.

Go to www.earnieawards.com to cast your vote.

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Show Time

talking points

FASHION INDUSTRY LEADERS gath-

collections from graduating designers of

-bined designs for both young children and

Parsons alumni Carly Cushnie and

and galleries.

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and adults. Raggiani’s time studying abroad at

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Future of FashionFASHION DESIGN STUDENTS gradu-

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occasion. The critics also mentored the students throughout the semester as they created their garments.

-tices and influence in the fashion industry.

A tween look by Parsons’ childrenswear award winner, Giuliana Raggiani.

Award-winning childrenswear look by FIT student Tara Ricci.

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IT’S THAT TIME of year again—your chance to nomi-nate deserving companies for the prestigious Earnie Awards. There are 20 different categories, including Best Footwear, Best Company for Good and “It” Item of the Year. Receiving a nomination or award demonstrates the retail community’s seal of approval. Nominations are open until June 30 and can be made on www.earnieawards.com. Based on these nomina-tions, a ballot will be established for retailers to vote for their favorites beginning on Aug. 5 and ending on Aug. 30. The winners will be announced in October at the 35th annual Earnie Awards. Good luck to all!

AWARDS SEASON

ON MAY 10, industry leaders gathered in New York City’s Time Warner Center for the 2012 Licensing Summit to discuss licensing trends. Editor in chief of License! Global, Tony Lisanti, moderated the discussion that addressed such licensing topics as entertainment, fashion and social media. Panelists included Kevin Kern, direc-

tor of public relations at Elvis Presley; Debra Joester, president and CEO of The Joester Loria Group; Robert Strand, vice president of licensing at IMG; Charles Riotto, president of the International Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association (LIMA); and Chris DeMoulin, president of licensing at Advanstar.

“We must understand what licensing is,” DeMoulin said. “It’s a combination of brand extension, emotional connection and money that is developed thought-fully and strategically.” In regards to entertainment, blockbuster movies such as The Avengers create a big opportunity for new products and brand extension. Panelists also addressed social media franchises such as Angry Birds, Temple

Run and Annoying Orange as a new licensing opportunity. Fashion licensing, howev-er, remains the bulk of licensing revenue, contributing $37 billion to U.S. fashion sales in 2011, according to EPM Communications.

In regards to fashion, Joester cited the television show Fashion Star as performing two important licensing elements: brand extension and giving the consumer an expe-rience that satisfies the need for a current pop culture phenomenon. While real time integration may be the wave of licensing’s future, panelists maintained that, first and foremost, retailers must be willing to understand how to specifically translate these licensing opportunities into sales at their own stores.

Panelists also agreed that brands must stay true to their roots, stating that licens-ing constantly goes back to authenticity. Strand suggests that brands cover the basics first and always have a strategy that addresses legitimacy. DeMoulin wholly agreed. “We must stay mindful to who the customer is,” he said. “You have to stay authentic to why the customer base loves the property and how they emotionally identify with the brand.”

To learn more about licensing, visit the Licensing Expo at Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas from June 12 to 14. For more information, go to www.licensingexpo.com.

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fresh finds

With a nod to the great outdoors, the heritage-inspired debut collection from Homespun Vintage hearkens 1950s camping and hiking with plenty of washed cottons, plaids, checks and stripes. Core pieces for fall include a washed-to-perfection army jacket, complete with retro patches, and Fair Isle knit sweaters. Available for boys and girls in sizes 12 months to 6 years, the line wholesales for $12 to $44. Check out www.homespunvintage.com.

Designed in Florence, Italy, and manu-factured in L.A., Mor’baby is a line of infants’ apparel as pure and sweet as the babies who wear it. Designer and creator Morgan Musina says she only uses fabrics she would want to wear herself, like the softest cashmere, French terry, jersey, supima, modal, baby fleece, cotton-cashmere blends and stretch denim. Produced in sizes newborn to 24 months, the line fea-tures a carefully chosen color palette spanning soft pastels to deep navy blues and wholesales from $25 to $141. Visit www.morganmusina.com.

Founded by a pediatrician and mother of three, L.A.-based Zopheez offers a safe and

effortless option for dressing babies and toddlers with its easy-on, easy-off designs.

Available in 100 percent cotton for boys and girls in sizes 3 to 24 months, the outfits have

no confusing snaps to line up, waist ties or buttons; instead, they feature just one zip-

per down the front for getting dressed and one down below for quick diaper changes.

Wholesale prices range from $24 to $32. Visit www.zopheez.com.

Inspired by how kids see the world, L.A.-based The Little Hummingbird creates contemporary clothing for girls’ sizes 2 to 8. Rather than relying on embellishment, this made-in-the-USA brand focuses on smaller details like contrast-fabric appliqués, buttons and water-based non-toxic ink illustrations for its 100 percent cotton dresses, ponchos, coats and tees. Wholesale prices range from $22 to $39. Visit www.thelittlehummingbird.com.

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Mini explorers can roam with confidence in Kirsten Licet, a col-lection of comfortable

yet stylish shoes for boys and girls. Details like buckles and studs

add an edge to little ladies’ boots while flo-

ral embroidery keeps things sweet. Boys will

love the animal-themed sneakers that come

complete with ears and tails. Padded collars

add comfort to hand-crafted leather uppers,

and Thermoplastic rub-ber soles are weather-

resistant and offer lightweight flexibility.

Wholesale prices range from $12 to $28. Visit www.kirstenlicet.com.

Chicago-based designer Lindsey Berns creates a classic look for kids with vintage denim-inspired styles for girls’ sizes 12 months to 4 years. Along with her signature appli-qué peasant blouses and vintage denim pantaloons, standouts for fall include winter-white peplums, drop-waist pleats, sweatshirt dresses and capelets, asym-metrical shearling vests and leather motorcycle leggings. Wholesale prices range from $22 to $54. Check out www.lindseyberns.com.

Schoolbags for Kids was born with the pledge that for every backpack sold, another full of school supplies would be given to a child in need. The bags’ elongated widths allow books, art projects and even a laptop to be stowed in an orderly fashion, while interior pockets hold pencils and markers. Wide, cushioned straps distribute weight in a safe, comfort-able way. Wholesale prices range from $5 for a pencil case to $34.50 for a large backpack. Visit www.schoolbagsforkids.com.

Pipopipo, a baby and tod-dler apparel and accessory company for children from newborn to 5 years, launches for Fall ’12 with one-of-a-kind sock sets featuring whimsical characters packaged in eco-friendly, reusable bamboo boxes. Moisture-wicking and thermal-regulating, these non-slip socks keep feet cozy and dry while entertaining wearers with squeezable 3-D faces. Socks are available in packs of three for boys and girls and retail at $35. Visit www.pipopipoclothing.com.

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hot properties

TINY TOTS CAN take one of Disney’s most popular characters everywhere from lunchtime in the kitchen to a stroll in the park with Graco’s new collection of five Minnie Mouse essentials for mealtime, play-time, in the nursery and on the go.

Included in the collection are the Pack ‘n Play playard that comes with a rocking seat, soft toy bar, removable bassinet for naptime, changing table and built-in shelves; the Contempo Premiere highchair that features a convertible har-ness, six height positions and three recline levels, a dishwasher-safe re-movable tray and a machine-wash-able seat pad; the Fast Action Fold LX stroller, a sturdy yet lightweight product that accommodates kids

infant car seat that’s equipped with a canopy visor and body insert for added protection and comfort; and the Sweet Snuggle soothing swing that includes four seating positions and six swing speeds, a deep plush seat, a canopy with soft toys and

The products, licensed by Disney Baby, are available at retailers like

-duce this new Minnie Mouse collec-tion for parents who want to bring a little Disney magic into everyday

D’Addario, vice president of Disney Moms and Babies for Disney Con-sumer Products. “The collection’s whimsical Minnie Mouse design and soothing, fresh color scheme reflects the fun but fashion-forward look today’s moms are seeking.”

Minnie Mouse Gets

the Baby Treatment

Sunny Days, Snazzy

Watches

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PJS, PARTY FAVORS, play-things and more are getting a Pretty Ugly makeover thanks to a slew of recent deals between the Pretty Ugly firm—licensor of the UglyDoll brand, a group of kids’ characters that define ‘ugly’ as distinctive and unique—and a handful of licensees.

Fresh Pretty Ugly partnerships include: UglyDoll-branded party goods, balloons and ceramic ware from Amscan; backpacks, messenger and handbags, totes, zipper pulls, lunch bags, luggage and other school supplies from Fab*Starpoint, which are set to launch next January; fashion headwear, cold weather acces-sories, hosiery and umbrellas from Accessory Innovations; lunch accessories and kits for Fall ’12 from Thermos; kids’ dinner-ware, flatware and drinkware, set

to hit shelves in January, from Zak Designs; kids’ and juniors’ fleece apparel and T-shirts from Freeze; children’s sleepwear and robes from Komar; and infants’, toddlers’, kids’ and teens’ socks and legwarmers from United Legwear. Interested retailers can contact [email protected].

PRE-SCHOOL POWERHOUSE Sesame Street teaches kids everything from the alphabet to the days of the week, and now—thanks to a collabora-tion with Viva Time Corp, a staple in the watch-making industry for more than 30 years—it’ll have them telling time, too. Viva Time is incorporating its high-quality craftsmanship into a range of bright and playful Sesame Street watches that are set to hit retail-ers like Urban Outfitters and Hallmark Gift Stores this month.

Kids can choose from slap watch-es—perfect for younger children who don’t want to fumble with a strap—and even “furry” options that let Sesame Street lovers feel just like their favorite characters. The watches, which retail for $29.99, are available in Big Bird, Grover, Cookie Monster, Elmo and Oscar the Grouch styles. For more information, contact Jack Anzarouth at [email protected].

Sunny Days, Snazzy

Watches

Pretty Ugly Attracts Licensing Partners

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mailto:[email protected]

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NINE THINGS

9Western Chief

Hello Kitty pull-on rain boots

2Elks & Angelstake-me-home

booties3Frye rodeo

bootie

Vans checked slip-ons8

7 Stuart Weitzman

sparkle Mary Janes

7 A.M. Enfantwinter boots

1

4Ugg

sheepskin-lined boot

5 Livie & Lucaauto-themed shoes

6Old Soles

classic sneakers

Footwear fit for the most fashionable newborns.

BY MARIA BOUSELLI

BOOTIES, SNEAKERS AND SHOES, OH MY!

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Visit us at:

Showroom:

Little MeAccessories

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ON TREND DISNEY

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MAGIC KINGDOM 1 bow-embellished wallet by Loungefly 2 Mighty Fine T-shirt 3 Crocs shoes 4 bib set by A.D. Sutton 5 MiYim plush

Piglet 6 Cinderella-inspired T-shirt by Imoga 7 Graco Minnie Mouse swing 8 T-shirt by Patterson J. Kincaid 9 LeSportsac It’s a Small World bag

10 Atsuyo et Akiko character pillows 11 Petunia Pickle Bottom It’s a Small World-inspired diaper bag 12 Kids Preferred plush rattle

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ON TREND PRO SPORTS

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TEAM PLAYER 1 Outerstuff Adidas-branded MLS windbreaker 2 NBA backpack by Mojo 3 Designs by Chad and Jake embroidered

NBA robe 4 National Design double-sided NFL puzzle set 5 NHL polo shirt by Antigua 6 NFL booties by Skidders 7 Trends International NFL

poster 8 NBA dress by Klutch 9 NFL trash can by Fremont Die 10 Oyo Sportstoys MLB figurine

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ON TREND BOOKS

CHARACTER DRIVEN 1 Silverlicious book from HarperCollins Children’s and Madame Alexander doll 2 Scholastic The Magic School

Bus book 3 Penguin Group USA book and plush The Very Hungry Caterpillar by Kids Preferred 4 New-Gen comic by Marvel Comics 5 book by

American Girl 6 Viz Media Pokémon book 7 Harry Potter book by Scholastic 8 Pocoyo book by Random House Children’s Books 9 Dinosaur Train

book by Publications International 10 Kids Preferred Disney book 11 MerryMakers Skippyjon Jones puppet and Penguin Group USA book

12 Viz Media Mr. Men Little Miss book 13 Clifford the Big Red Dog book by Scholastic 14 Goodnight Moon pajamas and book by Books to Bed

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INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW MARCH 2011 $5.00

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THE EUROPEAN ISSUE

INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW APRIL/MAY 2011 $5.00

AWAY FROM HOME: DWELLSTUDIO

TALKS APPAREL

CASH CROP: EXPLORING

THE COTTON SPIKE

FASHION’S NEWTRADITIONALISTS BIG, BOLD BEAUTIFUL

Oh Baby!

FROCK STAR BONNIE YOUNGALTRUISM RULES RETAILK.I.D.S. GOES BACK TO SCHOOL

2011 $5.00

Swim

Sail Away

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BON BÉBÉ BRANCHES OUT CONQUERING FACEBOOK COMMERCE IN-STORE CLASSES EARN TOP MARKS

SUPERHERO STYLE AND BOYS’ RETRO LOOKS STAGE A COMEBACK

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HER DAUGHTERS’ ON-THE-GO life-styles motivated Debbie Naren to create the activewear line Limeapple for young girls. “There wasn’t a lot in the market and the clothes were fairly boring,” she says. “I want-ed to make something a little bit more fun.”

Naren launched the Canada-based brand

comfortable, quality, attractive and func-tional activewear for girls who are always on the move. “They might go skating, then go to a volleyball game, and there’s not a lot

of time to change,” Naren says. “You can pack [the clothes] in a bag and they don’t crush or smell.” All Limeapple apparel is pre-shrunk to ensure proper fit, and the supplex fabric allows stretch while keeping the shape. The fabric is anti-bacterial and odor-repelling, and the activewear line is also pilling-resistant.

The brand has expanded over the years to include swim, team and sportswear lines. The latter even features specialty pieces for activities such as gymnastics, dance, skat-ing and cycling. “I haven’t seen another line like our Limeapple sport collection for little girls,” Naren notes.

These young, active girls are the main source of inspiration for Limeapple designs. Naren says she often holds focus groups with

ideas for next season’s collection, and these groups can lead to inspiration for new prod-ucts and designs. “We have a ‘bubble hoodie’ that the girls love. It’s really comfortable, but some of the skaters couldn’t wear it on the ice. So for fall, we added a zip-up jacket with the same fabric,” Naren explains. Girls participating in the focus groups not only influence but are also sometimes part of the design process. Recently, they were even able to color in a swimsuit and the designers used their prints and color palettes in the line’s new collection. “I think in the end, [the focus group] helps the clothing appeal to the right people,” Naren adds.

The design director also notes that she works hard to keep the line’s apparel afford-able for moms who have to buy new cloth-ing for their growing children every year.

If retailers are unsure of what to buy for their stores, Limeapple offers a starter pack

“I just want kids to love our clothes,” Naren says of the brand. “I think everything else just falls into place if the product is great.” —Maria Bouselli

SPOTLIGHT APPAREL

Actively Delicious

Limeapple creator Debbie Naren dishes on what inspires

her brand’s new looks.

Wholesale: $10-$17 Sizing: 4-14

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SPOTLIGHT SHOES

SHANE AND SHAWN-

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www.roosshaneandshawn.com —M.B.

The Ward twins reinvent retro brand KangaRoos with their

children’s collection.

Hop to the TopWholesale: $24-$35 Sizing: 3.5-7 youth

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ON THE BLOCK RETAIL SPOTLIGHT

OW DOES A

LESTER’S LIGHTS

THE WAYOne of the New York area’s

biggest children’s retailers spills the secrets about how it’s thrived in

the industry for more than 60 years.By Mary Avant

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www.lesters.com

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How do you feel being the first woman to serve as chief operating officer of Sanrio?It’s definitely special and it’s an honor. My appointment as the first female COO demonstrates Sanrio’s continuing philosophy of empow-erment. It’s especially meaningful because we are such a female-centered brand, and I really want to inspire girls everywhere of all ages, especially as to career choices.

Tell me a bit about what you hope to bring to Sanrio in this position.I sincerely look forward to growing this brand, managing it alongside the growth and, of course, inter-nally within Sanrio, creating the best team with the greatest work environment—not traditional, but very contemporary in thinking and modern. We always want to think

THIS CAT’S GOT some serious street cred. Evidenced by 8.4 million and counting Facebook followers, Hello Kitty reigns as the most popular mark of the $5-billion global giant Sanrio. Now,

new kitty culture, the cat has set her sights on the infant and toddler market, a move that was based on

demand. A segment of Hello Kitty’s devoted fans poised all over the world are having children and demanding kitty-fied nurseries and wardrobes for their offspring.

The fabulous feline’s roots were decidedly simple: She was created

the market, Hsu points out, she did not have a production company, videos, TV shows, movies or games when she entered the market. Now, nearing her 38th birthday (“anniversary,” I’m corrected by Hsu), it’s clear that the world audience has embraced her wholeheartedly. In fact, there’s barely a consumer product that doesn’t have a super-kawaii Hello Kitty version of it, be it toaster, refrigerator, T-shirt or fine jewelry. Goods span a lion-sized price

double-dip licensing—a licensor partnering with another licensor to create a unique product, as they recently did with rock band Kiss and are poised to do with Elvis Presley.

Hsu gives us some insight into the powerhouse puss and her vision as the first female COO at Sanrio.

MILLION LIVES

Janet Hsu, new chief operating officer of Sanrio—holder of arguably the cutest license in the world, Hello Kitty—talks about the sheer volume and variety of Hello Kitty goods and reveals her plans for the cat to take a bigger leap this year into the North American infant/toddler market. By Jennifer Cattaui

Q&A

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What was your background?

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Do you think the new career path is indirect—an approach from all sides?

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-

What sort of personal charac-teristics do you think you need for your position and to succeed at Sanrio?

-

It seems like Hello Kitty is everywhere and growing—am I right, or is that my imagination?

--

What sections or aspects of the lifestyle brand are being focused upon?

-

It’s interesting that you are collaborating with small, boutique brands—is this a trend or something you are growing?

-

-

What sort of trends do you see in the licensing space?

--

What international market is particularly important right now? Is there somewhere you

are seeing a lot of growth?-

-

How have you connected the Hello Kitty brand to interna-tional markets and different socio-economic groups?

-

Q&A

Hello Kitty garden dress by Misha Lulu.

er_06_Q&A_03.indd 23 5/17/12 2:57 PM

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create environmentally friendly products and others who cater to our niche consumers. Recently, we announced a partner-ship with Dial, which is a company that can hit many different channels with inexpensive items like hand soaps. We also just announced a partnership with Hanky Panky for lingerie, combin-ing the sophisticated side of Hanky Panky with the cute side of Hello Kitty to create a unique, new experience. Partners might be industry leaders or design leaders or they take a completely new approach that resonates with the heart of the brand.

What accounts for the fascination with this brand?For Sanrio, the philosophy has always been, “Small gift, big smile.” It’s about being truly able to impact one’s life—in a small way but with a delightful experience.

Are there any new properties at Sanrio?We just acquired Mr. Men and Little Miss, so you’ll see activity there as well. There are so many entertainment-driven brands and lines created in the digital space. The difference for Sanrio is that neither Hello Kitty nor any of our other properties have been created specifically for entertainment, and that’s such a major difference. The same with Mr. Men and Little Miss—the brands just have a following. These evergreen lines prosper, as there is a true resonance with the customer.

There’s a lot of talk about different routes to manufacturing, 3-D printing and the like. Is this capturing your attention?Anything new and different captures our attention. We’re always evaluating how that connects with our brand and what the experi-ence is in the end. One of the objectives has been to stay true to the brand and its experience. So even though there might be so many new and different things out there, it’s not always going to fit with us, but it might. If it delivers that experience, we will definitely be on it.

Have the ups and downs of the economy affected you significantly?There have definitely been eco-nomic challenges because people have not had as much disposable income, but that goes back to our strategy of being able to offer dif-ferent experiences at different access points, and we still have that connection, whether it’s a robust time in the economy or a downturn. From a company standpoint, we always want to manage the strategic road to preserve the brand based upon what’s happening in the world. I think the digital space continues to be more and more important for us, and there are different

ways that we can look to connect with our consumer, as well, because communication is very timely and it’s more global.

What role does Facebook play for the Sanrio brands?It’s a huge part of the connection, and Hello Kitty has more than 8 million fans and is growing every day. We are able to connect instantly and we always make sure that the experience is fantas-tic because we want it to be a true connection with the brand.

In what ways do you keep that connection authentic?It’s not a way for us to advertise and not a way to push product. It’s a way for us to listen, communicate and give fans content they might find enjoyable.

Personally, what were your first Hello Kitty products?

Hello Kitty sneakers by Vans.

Q&A

er_06_Q&A_03.indd 24 5/17/12 2:57 PM

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“We really wanted to satisfy the lifestyle perspective by having products that touch every part of a consumer’s world.”

Chenille infant cardigan by new Hello Kitty licensee, Barefoot Dreams.

Q&A

er_06_Q&A_03.indd 25 5/17/12 2:57 PM

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IN CHANCES ARE, IF you spend even five minutes in a store—whether it’s the local Walmart or a fast-fashion chain like H&M—you’ll see your fair share of licensed products. Everywhere shoppers turn today, they’re met with item after branded item featuring characters and logos from their favorite movies, bands or TV shows. The question isn’t whether licensing is a popular sales scheme—that’s apparent, given that The NPD Group’s Kids Industry Data

rather, it’s how to cash in on the craze.More and more frequently, licensors, brands and retailers are turning to a

new and growing solution: boutique licensing, a form of branding that elevates the everyday Mickey Mouse item into a high-end, high-quality and high-fash-ion product that can’t be found on every other street corner. “There’s a differ-ence between a Mickey Mouse T-shirt you get at Walmart and something that’s designed by a high-end licensee that’s used to dealing in the boutique market-place,” notes Marty Brochstein, SVP of the International Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association (LIMA). And since a number of factors are set-ting the stage for this subdivision of licensing to thrive—the fact that almost a fourth of purchases for children are licensed items is just one of these—now may be the perfect time for boutique retailers to jump aboard.

The Case for Boutique Licensing

on the mend, it might run counterintuitive for retailers to turn toward high-end, higher-priced items to draw in sales. However, it’s the high-income and middle-tier consumers who are getting back on their shopping feet and set-

Group, a licensing firm that represents brands like Pepsi and Annoying Orange. “Retail results show that higher-end product is selling well, as high-er income consumers return to shopping for their favorite brands and new trends,” she

reports. And since customers are increasingly willing to shell out big bucks for finer-quality items, licensors, brands and retailers can now take advan-tage of these higher-margin items.

Plus, due to the explosion of blogs and social media over the past few years, licensors and brands are finding that high-end licensing creates the type of interest that not even the best-planned PR efforts can spark. “Brand owners and licensors have been eager to build buzz and elevate their brands by co-branding with designers, creating boutique collections and reinforcing the

In addition, because consumers are becoming more web savvy, they have better access to high-end, often-limited-run collaborations. “In the past, these collections only received visibility through placement in fashion magazines and to customers who frequented high-end boutiques and finer department stores,” says Stephanie Kraus, vice president of softlines product development for Disney Consumer Products, which has collaborated with everyone from Dolce & Gabbana to kids’ brand Atsuyo et Akiko. “The Internet has broken down those limitations, exposing more consumers to these collaborations and offering them a mechanism in which to purchase these pieces.”

The Good and the BadNot only is the time ripe for a surge in boutique licensing, but license-holders and kids’ brands are buying into it for good reason. As mentioned, the children’s market may be drowning in a sea of branded products, but high-end offerings

A growing number of boutiques are stocking high-end licensed products, cashing in on parents’ nostalgia and desire to make their kids stand out.

C H A R A C T E R

BY M A R Y AVA N T

er_boutique_license.indd 26 5/17/12 9:15 AM

give diluted licenses a chance to regain and retain their hard-fought-for value. “These days, Disney is so prevalent,” states Heajung Chung, creative director of children’s brand Imoga, who teamed up with the kids’ entertainment giant in 2011 for a high-end collaboration that resulted in sophisticated and classic pieces for little ladies based on characters like Bambi and Winnie the Pooh. “By having a high-end collection, they wanted to bring their Disney line to a more artistic level,” Chung says. Instead of featuring characters on items in the collection, Imoga’s designs are inspired by the personality of each lovable character. For example, for the Bambi collection, Chung channeled an Audrey Hepburn style to create charming, elegant pieces with a unique quality that Disney—and her consumers—adored.

Not to mention, taking on big-name licenses opens up a whole new world for smaller brands like Imoga. Joe Salazar, CEO of Misha Lulu, a kids’ lifestyle brand that began producing Hello Kitty collections in Fall ’11, says that the brand’s involvement with the über-popular license allowed it to tap into a massive pool of Hello Kitty fans. “People who wouldn’t buy Misha Lulu in the first place are being introduced to the brand through this collaboration,” Salazar notes, adding that boutique licensing helps nurture smaller brands like his own. In turn, retailers reap the benefits that come along with an expanded fan base—namely, more sales.

However, whatever the advantages, this growing breed of licensing has its own set of challenges. First, because the economy is still on the rebound, con-sumers and retailers continue to place a major emphasis on value, even—or especially—in the high-end sphere. “The challenge is to still be able to put into the product the really great, higher-end fabrics and decoration and make sure that value is still there,” points out Nina Leong, SVP of licensing for Saban Brands, owner of the popular Paul Frank franchise. “Even the small mom-and-pop [stores] are all pushing back for higher margins.”

Another difficulty—which may actually be more of a blessing than a curse—involves the limited quantity of many licensed boutique collections. “There’s that consumer who understands that [exclusivity] and gets the collection the second it comes out,” explains Jill Koch, SVP of brand management for Sanrio, owner of the Hello Kitty brand. “But there are other consumers who don’t play in that world that much and get frustrated. You have to balance the demand with the limited quantity.”

And for brands and retailers just venturing into the boutique licensing market, it can prove challenging. “It was very tough in the beginning,” Imoga’s Chung says. “When I actually presented to the market, retailers weren’t too happy about it because they didn’t want to compete with the Disney store.” However, she reports that once retailers and consumers witnessed the collec-tion’s quality firsthand, selling the Fall ’12 line was a cinch. “Now I’m having a lot of positive feedback,” Chung says, noting that she even gets emails straight from shoppers praising her branded work.

Capturing the Parent MarketAs much as boutique licensing is giving brands and licensors a leg up in the kids’ market, it can also be a major boost for high-end and boutique retail-ers, mostly because it’s the parents who are strongly drawn to licensed items. Sure, kids love to wear their favorite Disney characters on a T-shirt, but it’s mom and dad whose fond memories of Sesame Street or their favorite ’80s band are willing to shell out big bucks for finer-quality licensed products. “If the parents are shopping in that environment to begin with, they’re prequali-fied as to the amount they’re looking to spend, but it has to hit a chord,” LIMA’s Brochstein explains. “If you’re shopping in a boutique and you come upon a Sesame Street character well-executed in a high-quality garment and it strikes a chord with a parent, that’s part of the evaluation of, ‘Is it worth it?’ ”

That nostalgia-driven purchasing is one of the reasons high-end boutiques and retailers should stick with tried-and-true licenses, advises Tina Burgos,

From top: Hello Kitty-themed Misha Lulu dress; Paul Frank T-shirt and monkey-adorned khaki shorts.


2 8

owner of Boston-based Monkey and the Bug. “Those characters have stood the test of time, and not only because they’re really popular with children, but with the parents, as well,” she says. “Personally, I wouldn’t spend $45 on a cotton T-shirt if it doesn’t have some major grab. It’s not just about the product itself; it’s about the lifestyle and the nostalgia.”

In addition, for licensed products to capture the attention and dollars of picky, high-end shoppers, there’s no room to skimp on quality. “People who go to these stores are looking for something that doesn’t look cheap and that looks more classic,” Imoga’s Chung notes. That’s why band T-shirt brand Rowdy Sprout—whose tees, rompers, dresses and more

made-in-California cotton poly-blend material and unique trims to offer consumers and retailers top-notch quality. “High-end licensed items have to have a unique graphic or better quality,” points out Gina Rothwell,

-ing brand is Rowdy Sprout. “Their construction is awesome, and that just sets them apart.” Laura Angotti, creator of Rowdy Sprout, says that she’s

and people who buy it continue to place orders.”High-quality branded items must also stand out from the crowd of

licensed offerings on the market. “Make sure the product is differ-

item from a $7 item.” Monkey and the Bug’s Burgos says the distinctive quality of Atsuyo et Akiko’s Disney items is the reason she carries the line in her store. “They’re able to do [licensing] in a way that it’s still cool. It’s not a licensed product that would be found in a mainstream children’s shop,” she says of the line, which sells out almost immediately each time the store receives a new shipment. “They’re able to inject their own style into the licensed products.”

Add these qualities together and the result is brands that can help retailers cash in on licensed offerings. “Parents will always spend some-thing on their kids to help them stand out from the crowd,” Misha Lulu’s Salazar maintains. Sanrio’s Koch echoes this sentiment, saying “If a consumer appreciates unique product or items that she won’t see on every other kid in her child’s class, she’ll seek out that unique item.” And not only does high-end licensed product stand out, but it also separates retailers that offer these items from those that don’t. “It sets me apart and gives me the ability to offer something to the customer that they’re not seeing everywhere else in town,” Sol Baby’s Rothwell says. “Most people can relate to something from pop culture, whether it’s a band, retro char-acter or beloved image from their past. By not offering something in that category, a boutique could miss out on those impulse purchases that tug

LICENSED SALES FOR KIDS IN 2011

From left: Imoga’s Minnie Mouse-inspired collection; retro raglan from Rowdy Sprout.

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PERFEC

T FIT

Bombarded by a deluge of brands and sizing variations, retailers struggle to maintain a consistent selling floor.By Lyndsay McGregor

Aer_6_fit_2.indd 30 5/17/12 9:00 AM

3 1

S ANYONE WHO’S ever bought clothes knows, there’s no

Picture the scene: You place a huge order with a new brand you spotted at a trade show,

-

harassed mothers know, size 5 in a little girl’s dress can mean almost anything,” wrote Katherine Graham in a 1948 Washington Post

size to fit a certain way on me, I want the same thing for children’s clothing—especially if

of T-shirts, the necklines were too small and we had to re-make everything,” says co-

-

Ever since custom clothing gave way to ready-to-wear, standard sizing has never been

most clothing manufacturers tend to use their own sizing guidelines, designing for spe-

I have manufacturers calling me asking if they can use our books—and I have to tell

AAbove: a Fall ’12 look from A for Apple; Left: double- breasted peacoat by A for Apple.

er_6_fit_2.indd 31 5/17/12 9:01 AM

3 2

to learn about proportions in layettes, boys’ and girls’ wear, denim, swimwear, sportswear and outerwear. “We purchased all new mannequins recently and they’re very

GETTIN’ TECHY WITH IT“Fashion is all about change—every season there are new styles and new colors—yet, behind the scenes, the fashion business is one of the most change-resistant industries in

-barded with data about how the population is changing.

today it’s 35 percent, so the sizing requirements for chil-

-facturer Dr. Kenneth Wang, Alvanon has focused on assisting the apparel industry’s product development

child morphology—based on 3-D scans of real children—the company helps manufacturers, retailers and brands

and begin employing the latest research in body shape

American Society for Testing and Materials (A.S.T.M.) endorsed Alvanon’s recommendations as its official stan-

-

France. “Kids are growing and constantly changing, so

he says.Earlier this year, Alvanon signed A for Apple to its two-

year global mentoring program, an initiative designed to give young designers access to world-class fit consultancy

given the brand up to five hours of consultancy a month on a range of crucial fashion fit issues, including tar-get consumer shape analysis, sizing and pattern grading.

efficiently on both its own collection and its line with style

HASH IT OUT

we have to be able to tell our customers how they run, how

streetwear line Appaman as a favorite. Boys and girls love

A Fall ’12 look from Appaman.

er_6_fit_2.indd 32 5/17/12 9:01 AM

3 3

Clockwise from top: a Fall ’12 look from Fore!! Axel & Hudson; buffalo plaid hooded one-piece by Fore!! Axel & Hudson; jacket with zippers by Polarn O. Pyret.

“Many retailers don’t take a step back and ask what these kids really look like, what their size and shape is.”

er_6_fit_2.indd 33 5/17/12 9:01 AM

34

Blazer by Ralph Lauren,Grant Garçon navy blue vest, Scotch Shrunk flannel shirt, Izod by Fishman & Tobin white blouse.

LICENSED FASHION BRANDS ADD A FINISHING TOUCH TO CLASSIC BACK-TO-SCHOOL LOOKS.

er_06_fashion_Final.indd 34 5/21/12 7:53 AM

37

Blazer by Aston Martin from LOL Kids, Kenzo Kids by Groupe Zannier blouse, Levi’s by Haddad skinny jeans, Paul Smith Jr. by Groupe Zannier messenger bag. Opposite: Hitch-Hiker coat, Levi's by Haddad button-down shirt, Grant Garçon sweater, Jean Bourget by Groupe Zannier jeans.


38

Paul Smith Jr. by Groupe Zannier jumpsuit, Kitestrings by Parigi blazer and gingham shirt, MP thigh highs. Opposite: Scotch Shrunk plaid jacket and denim shirt, Aston Martin by LOL Kids sweater, Ny & Lon jeans.


Varsity jacket and denim shirt by Scotch R’Belle, Ny & Lon jeans. Opposite: Scotch Shrunk plaid blazer, Izod by Fishman & Tobin polo, ruffled shirt by Ralph Lauren, Nukutavake jeans.


41


Paul Smith Jr. by Groupe Zannier shirt, Junior Gaultier by Groupe Zannier sweater vest, Hitch-Hiker acid wash pants. Opposite: Izod by Fishman & Tobin corduroy blazer and striped button-down shirt, Nukutavake sweater, Levi’s by Haddad jeans.

Style Director: Michel OnofrioFashion Editor: Angela VelasquezHair and Makeup: Wendy Karcher @ Amy Kirkman

42


43


JUNE7-10

Atlanta Apparel MarketAmericasMart

Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000

www.americasmart.com

10PLUSHVibiana

Los Angeles, CA(310) 248-0160

www.plushshow.com

11-14LA Kids Market

California Market CenterLos Angeles, CA (213) 630-3683

www.californiamarketcenter.com

17-18Bubble London

Business Design CentreIslington, London

+ 44 (0)1484 846069www.bubblelondon.com

20-26Dallas Total Home & Gift Market

Dallas Market CenterDallas, TX

(214) 655-6100www.dallasmarketcenter.com

21-24KidsWorld

Dallas Children’s Apparel & Accessories Market

Dallas Market CenterDallas, TX

(214) 655-6100www.dallasmarketcenter.com

28-30Pitti Bimbo

Forteza da BassoFlorence, Italy

www.pittimmagine.com

JULY7-9

Playtime ParisParc Floral de Paris, L’Espace

EvenementsParis, France

+33 (0)14372 7537www.playtimeparis.com

11-18Atlanta International

Gift & Home Furnishings MarketAmericasMart

Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000


15-17KidzBiz Insights

The Hotel at Mandalay BayLas Vegas, NV

(603) 785-5510www.kidzbizinsights.com

AUGUST4-6

Playtime New York82 Mercer St.New York, NY(213) 563-7301

www.playtimenewyork.com

5-7ENK Children’s Club

Pier 94, 55th St. @ 12th Ave.New York, NY

(212) 759-8055www.enkshows.com

6-9LA Kids Market

California Market CenterLos Angeles, CA(213) 630-3683


9-12Copenhagen Fashion Week

(CIFFKIDS)Bella Center

Copenhagen, Denmarkwww.ciffkids.dk

9-13Atlanta Apparel Market

AmericasMartAtlanta, GA

(404) 220-3000www.americasmart.com

10-14North Branch Children’s Show

1229 N. North Branch, 3rd FloorChicago, IL

www.northbranchkids.com

11-13Kidz at Stylemax

222 Merchandise Mart Plaza7th Floor Market Suites

Chicago, IL(312) 527-7570

www.kidzatstylemax.com

12-13NW Kids Show

DoubleTree by HiltonSeattle, WA

www.nwkidsshow.com

12-13St. Louis Gift Show

St. Charles Convention CenterSt. Charles, MI(513) 861-1139

www.stlouisgiftshow.com

12-14The Children’s Great Event

Shoe ShowThe Marriott Teaneck

at GlenpointeTeaneck, NJ

(718) 769-4251www.tcgess.com

13-15United Boston Children’s

Wear Show75 McNeil WayDedham, MA

(781) 407-0055www.

unitedbostonchildrenswear. com

13-17NY Kids Market

34 West 33rd StreetNew York, NY(214) 655-6100

www.nykidsmarket.com

16-19Dallas Apparel &

Accessories MarketDallas Market Center

Dallas, TX(214) 655-6100

www.dallasmarketcenter.com

17-21 Columbus MarketPlace

Gift ShowColumbus MarketPlace

Dublin, OH(614) 339-5100

www.thecolumbusmarketplace.com

18-21The Children’s Show

at DeerfieldEmbassy Suites

Deerfield, IL(248) 478-1732

www.midwestchildrensapparelgroup.com

CA LENDARMARKET DATES & EVENTS

Pitti BimboJune 28-30Florence, Italy

er_06_calendar_06.indd 44 5/17/12 1:22 PM

http://www.nwkidsshow.com

Editor’s Note: Show details are subject to change. Please call the phone numbers or visit the show websites for up-to-date schedules. Show sponsors may send up-dates to [email protected].

Net TULLE Tricotwww.tutufabric.comFashion Fabrics

CA LENDARMARKET DATES & EVENTS

19-22New York International

Gift FairPiers 92 & 94, Javits Center

New York, NY(800) 272-7469www.nyigf.com

20-22KIDShow

Bally’s HotelLas Vegas, NV

(908) 232-0867www.kidshow.cc

21-22Playground

The Cosmopolitan of Las VegasLas Vegas, NV (213) 622-7039

www.playgroundtradeshow.com

28-30Playtime Tokyo

Belle Salle Shibuya FirstTokyo, Japan

+81 (3)3793 0057www.playtimetokyo.com

SEPTEMBER8-10

Dallas Total Gift & Home MarketDallas Market Center

Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100

www.dallasmarketcenter.com

9-11Michigan Children’s Show

Glen Oaks Country Club30124 W. 13 Mile Rd.Farmington Hills, MI

(847) 415-2156

9-11The Livonia Children’s Show

Embassy SuitesLivonia, MI


9-12United Boston

Children’s Wear Show75 McNeil WayDedham, MA

(781) 407-0055www.unitedbostonchildrenswear.com

13-16The Indy Children’s Show

Embassy Suites North Indianapolis, IN


13-16Kind + Jugend

Koelnmesse GmbHCologne, Germany+49 (0)1805 117017

www.kindundjugend.com

OCTOBER10

Atlanta Apparel MarketAmericasMart

Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000


14-17ABC Kids Expo

Kentucky Exposition CenterLouisville, KY(210) 691-4848

www.theabcshow.com

15-18LA Kids Market

California Market CenterLos Angeles, CA(213) 630-3683


19-23North Branch Children’s Show

1229 N. North Branch, 3rd FloorChicago, IL

www.northbranchkids.com

20-22NW Kids Show

DoubleTree by Hilton, Seattle, WA www.nwkidsshow.com

Playtime TokyoAugust 28-30Tokyo, Japan

er_06_calendar_06.indd 45 5/17/12 1:22 PM

M AR K ETPLACE

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er_06_marketplace_01.indd 46 5/18/12 4:11 PM

RETAIL-TO-GO shoe salon

How to Sell Kids’ ShoesWith back-to-school season about to begin, Matt Priest, president of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA), shares his top tips for selling children’s shoes.

Highlight proper fit. Shoes that are too big or too small can harm a child’s delicate feet. Take the time to measure and evaluate the fit based on factors like the flexion, girth and width of a child’s foot, as he or she may require different sizes in different shoes. Parents will appreciate this attention to detail.

Be the expert they can trust. Help parents understand the growth of their child’s feet and advise them on how often they should have feet measured.

Offer a smorgasbord of shoes. It’s impor-tant to offer a variety of sizes and styles, as a store with a reliable inventory is more likely to be visited by shoppers. “There’s nothing more frustrating for me as a father than to go shoe shopping for my kids and only find sizes for one of the three or two of the three. Everyone is so busy and you only have so many opportunities to shop for footwear,” Priest says.

Be aware of trends. Children are an impor-tant part of the buying decision, and if your store is failing to keep up with current trends—be they stylistic, character or pop culture—you’re going to fall behind.

Communication is key. Reach out to custom-ers through “thank you” notes, birthday pro-grams and social media efforts that will help them feel part of a bigger community. And since all those shoes add up, offer coupons and rewards to repeat customers to let them know you value their business.

Brands that offer a variety of sizes and widths:__________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

Perennial best sellers:______________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

Styles to scale back on:____________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

Updates in technologies and materials:________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

Trends to keep an eye on:__________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

New licenses to check out:_________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

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Ideas for in-store promotions:_______________________________________________

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Stylists may live and breathe fashion for other people, but when it comes to their own wardrobes, comfortable, casual clothing is essential for a job that requires them to run from showroom to show-room and keep order on the set. So it didn’t come as a huge surprise when Gavin chose a collection of cool, relaxed athletic gear to wear during his turn as a fashion stylist for Earnshaw’s—after all, comfy clothing is key to his life as a rambunctious pre-schooler. On an average day, Gavin sets aside at least nine hours for running around—training for the recreational soccer team he plans on joining soon—and counts swinging on swing sets, riding his plasma car around the house and playing with trains as some of his favorite hobbies.

Gavin confessed that while he had fun picking out “sweats” and making friends at our office, it’s really trains—not fashion—that rev up his engine. He goes wild for Thomas the Tank Engine, having inherited his older brother’s train table and Thomas toys. Since then, he’s added to the collection with Thomas the Tank Engine DVDs, a Knapford shed to house Thomas and his friends, and a Western Chief rain set. Gavin even celebrated his second birthday with a Thomas-inspired cake. “He was mesmerized,” his mom says. —Angela Velasquez

STYLIST: GAVINAGE: 2HOMETOWN: CORTLANDT MANOR, NY

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Clockwise from top right: Adidas-branded MLS sweatshirt by Outerstuff, Fore!! Axel & Hudson T-shirt, Nike pants by Haddad, sneakers by Tsukihoshi; Western Chief rain coat, Fore!! Axel & Hudson T-shirt, Levi’s jeans by Haddad, Tsukihoshi sneakers; Puma jacket and tee by Parigi, Nike pants by Haddad, Tsukihoshi sneakers.

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earnshaw's | june 2012

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