education booklet on making perfumes

8/13/2019 Education Booklet on Making Perfumes

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MAKING YOUR OWN PERFUME

Perfumeryworkshop

Participant booklet

Contact: Isabelle Gell29 Brigg Drive First La e!essle !"#$ 9!G" ite% &i g%om

'el( )*2*$+ *,-99.- /ob0 *19#1,.*9*2mail( isabelle3lesparfumsisabelle04o0uk

5eb ( www0lesparfumsisabelle04o0uk Blog: http://lespa !"#s$%sa&elle'(o $p ess'co#

IsabelleGell
http://www.lesparfumsisabelle.co.uk/http://www.lesparfumsisabelle.co.uk/


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Copyright notice:This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author.

Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this bookletC!""#T be circulated on the Internet or through any other public means without the e$press writtenconsent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without prior authorisation will be sub%ect to legal actionunder the Intellectual property laws.

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)AB*E OF CON)EN)+

5el4ome ote $

Perfumery ( a bit of history 6

7lfa4tory groups -

/etho%s a % raw materials 1

/a ufa4turi g te4h i8ues 9

tarti g your ow perfume 4reatio ##

tarter kit #2

:reati g a class%c o %ental pe !"#e #$

;l4ohol or 4arrier oil< #6

:reati g a class%c Ea" $e cologne #.

:reati g a Flo al ea" $e to%lette #-

au %e Parfum a % 4o 4e trate% perfume #1

:hilli g= filteri g a % %e4a ti g pro4ess #,

:reati g a Ch,p e &ase #9

List of rare a % e>pe sive oils 2*

Copyright notice:This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author. Reference made to other

sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet C!""#T be circulated on the Internet orthrough any other public means without the e$press written consent of the author. !ny use of this booklet without priorauthorisation might lead to prosecution under the Intellectual property laws.


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Welco#e to the (o l$ o! nat" al pe !"#e , an$ to ane-c%t%ng an$ en$less .o" ne, to the scents

I ha0e co#p%le$ th%s &oo1let !o ,o" to &e a&le to ca , on(%th ,o" nat" al pe !"#e c eat%on an$ a$0ent" e once ,o"ha0e g aspe$ the &as%cs (h%ch ,o" (%ll ha0e lea nt $" %ngthe (o 1shop' It (%ll g%0e ,o" a e!e ence to go &ac1 to(hen ,o" $es%gn ,o" o(n ! ag ance'

*%1e (%th an, lea n%ng c" 0e2 ,o" (%ll !ace o&stacles an$so#e o! ,o" &len$s (%ll &e h"ge !a%l" es o e-cept%onals"ccesses'

C eat%ng a pe !"#e %s a co#ple- p ocess e3"% %ng a lot o!pat%ence' Pe !"#e , %s a $%!!e ent ga#e ! o# a o#athe ap,(h%ch %s a&o"t &len$%ng the co ect o%ls !o the ape"t%c

p" poses' )hose &len$s "s"all, s#ell #e$%cal an$ $o notconta%n #o e than a !e( essent%al o%ls' Pe !"#es a e$%!!e ent' )he, can conta%n "p to 455 $%!!e ent o%ls an$ canta1e #onths o ,ea s to pe !ect'

En.o, ,o" .o" ne,

F ag antl,2

Isabelle GellCreative perfumer

NO)E: /y metho% of perfume?maki g is base% o #9 th 4e tury books a %tra%itio s0 7ther perfumers use more mo%er approa4hes a % ea4h perfumer hastheir ow @se4retsA to make their ow sig ature perfumes0 'he metho%s you willlear through my workshops might be %iffere t from what you woul% lear iGrasse or other workshops0 For e>ample= some perfumers pla4e a lot of fo4us o4al4ulatio a % per4e tages for e>a4t pre4isio s0 5hereas we all have to usemathemati4s to e sure a goo% harmo y of otes i the perfume= I am a loyalfollower of %mo % ou% istska= who fo4use% o the ;rt of Perfumery a % is thefamous 4reator of @Femme by o4hasA= @Diorissimo a % au auvage by DiorA0

!e sai% @A ''Perfumers are chemists no more than is the painter who manipulateschemical colors. In itself, composing a perfume has nothing to do with chemistry.The Compositeur must not let himself be influenced by systematic thoughts. nlyby considering each odor by itself and in its rapport with the other odors, withoutany preconceived idea, will he ma!e the best use of it"



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4' PERFUMERY: a &%t o! h%sto , Ant%3"%t, ( origi of the term @perfumeA C Lati @parfumareA mea i g

@through the smokeA gyptia s were usi g fumigatio to ho our theirGo%s a % go%%esses0 'he first k ow perfume is 4alle% @ KYP6I A whi4h isa ble % of myrrh= Eu iper berry= fe ugreek= pista4hio= rosemary= mi t0Perfumes were ma%e of resi s a % fats whi4h= whe melte% wereperfumi g the hair a % fa4e0 'hese te4h i8ues were the importe% by theGreeks a % the oma s whi4h improve% the i gre%ie ts a % use% them ireligious rituals as well as everywhere i their houses be4ause they were4o vi 4e% about the me%i4al properties of perfumes0

Pe !"#es as we k ow them ow go ba4k to the ;rabs who i ve te% the@alembi4A= allowi g %istillatio of pla ts a % givi g way to ew s4e tsi 4lu%i g musk0 o perfumery is ot Fre 4h origi ally0 But the Fre 4h arethose who tur e% it i to a tra%e a % lau 4he% the mo%er perfumery0

7" %ng the Rena%ssance t%#es2 where arts flourishe%= all the uee s

a % &i gs i urope were 4ompeti g agai st ea4h other to %is4over beautyse4rets0 Foreig al4hemists starte% to ope shops i Paris a % perfume%gloves were offere% o sale0 7 e must remember that o e of the reaso swas the ste 4h whi4h ee%e% to be 4overe%0 ot as roma ti4 as we 4ae>pe4t but perfumes were bor out of e4essity0

It %s "n$e the +"n K%ng *o"%s 8I9 4; th cent" ,< that perfumerybe4ame a tre % a % a big busi ess a % apart from perfume gloves=fragra 4es a % s4e te% pow%ers were pro%u4e%0 /aster glovers wereallowe% to take the offi4ial title of @maHtres parfumeurs et ga tiersA )still afamous perfume bra % from Paris to%ay+ a % a tra%e stru4ture wasorga ise% a % establishe% i Grasse to grow the pla ts a % flowers ee%e%i 4lu%i g 4ar atio = violet= Easmi e= lave %er a % rose 0

In the 4= th cent" ,2 fashio be4ame the ame of the game with everywoma followi g the 4o%es of se%u4tio 0 'he :ourt of &i g Louis J was4alle% the @perfume 4ourtA a % it was ma %atory to use a ew fragra 4eevery%ay0 /arie?; toi ette a % Louis JI were at the 4e tre of thisfashio 0 Famous perfumerAs houses be4ame more establishe% with amessu4h as Gell FrKres= the first perfumers of /arie?; toi ette a % ea ?LouisFargeo who took over from Gell FrKres0 Fari a i ve te% the first @ au %e:olog eA i #1$20

Napoleon an$ >oseph%ne i the #9 th 4e tury spe t fortu es o perfumesa % osephi e i tro%u4e% e>oti4 fragra 4es with 4i amo = va illa %ue to

her :reole origi s0 !owever= at the same time= the roma ti4 tre % ha%appeare% a % the British fo4use% o light= femi i e a % %is4reet s4e ts0British perfumery ha% to remai %is4reet i terms of perfume 4reatio %ueto a Parliame t ;4t of #11* establishi g that @a y marriage base% ose%u4tio a % o abuse of stro g s4e ts= make?up= high heels a % 4orsetswoul% fall u %er the law agai st wit4hes a % low morality a % be %e4lare%voi%A0 !owever= :ree%= establishe% i #1-*= be4ame the perfumer of

uee Ji4toria0

At the en$ o! the 4? th cent" ,2 the first sy theti4 fragra 4es appeare%to target more mi%%le 4lass wome 0 ew otes were %is4overe% su4h asva illi = 4oumari )toba44o pipe smell+= he%io e )Easmi e smell



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repro%u4tio + a % the first al%ehy%es )4itrus otes with a a imalisti4ba4kgrou %+0

F o# 4?55 to the 4??5@s2 famous perfumersA houses proliferate% with!ele a ubi stei a % liMabeth ;r%e 0 ;l%ehy%es were use% i allperfumes to give e ergy a % fresh ess0 ;fter the 2 % worl% war= Diorlau 4he% @4hara4ter fragra 4esA= a%apti g to me or wome As ow style0Desig er fragra 4es be4ame popular0 I the #9.*As= the first au> %etoilette for me appeare% with vetiver a % lave %er use% e>te sively ithe groomi g routi e )Jetiver by Guerlai was a popular o e+ a % the first;meri4a fragra 4e was lau 4he% by stee Lau%er0 :ha el o0. be4amethe se>y perfume= promote% by /aryli /o roe who %e4lare% that @she4oul% ot sleep without o0.A0 I the -*As a % 1*As= the hippy moveme tgave way to the use of pat4houli a % the sear4h for e lighte me t is atthe origi of @ au> fraH4hes )fresh waters+A0 'he late 1*As a % ,*As yearswere marke% by @lifestyleA fragra 4es a % ew otes were 4reate% su4h asmari e otes a % fruity otes0

F o# 4??5 to 5552 perfume tre %s have bee marke% by wars= ;IDa % a ee% to get away from the materialisti4 worl% a % to retur to

ature0 Fragra 4es evoke% sea= earth= pla t a % flowers a % refo4us othe basi4s( earth= fire= water a % wi %0 7 the other ha %= perfumes li kmore to 4hil%hoo% memories a % te % to li k the se se of taste to these se of smell with 4reamy sweet otes of va illa= 4aramel= a % 4ho4olate0

C" entl,2 the tre %s are %ivi%e% i 2 4ategories(

o F ag ances !o the ,o"th an$ the co##e c%all, o %ente$cl%ent with @CE*EBRI)Y PERFUME+ A whi4h are usually4reate% very rapi%ly a % fo4us more o the pa4kagi g a %marketi g tha the 8uality of the fragra 4e0 'hey are 4reate% i aslittle time as # week a % their lifespa is short0 'he mai obEe4tiveis @maki g mo eyA by havi g it e %orse% by a 4elebrity0

o F ag ances !o the eco c%t% ens su4h as @ 9IN)AGE # a %@UNI+E8 # fragra 4es as well as fragra 4es base% o thee>ploratio of orie tal a % floral otes for me 0 'hose fragra 4esare 4alle% @florie talA a % are usually appre4iate% both by me a %wome 0

o 'he @vi tageA fragra 4es are limite% e%itio s a % are treate% like agoo% wi e i a goo% year0 'hose i 4lu%e NA)URA*PERFUME+ i 4lu%i g the retur of +O*I7 PERFUME+ ma%eof a ble % of fat i gre%ie ts su4h as beeswa> a % EoEoba a %prese te% i beautiful a % lu>urious 4o tai ers0

'here is a tre % towar%s re%is4overy of real s4e t se satio s ofgree forest= rai forest= spi4es= usi g o ly esse tial oils= absolutesa % resi s %istille% or e>tra4te% through 4lassi4 alembi40 aturalperfumers are i the @ i4he marketA of perfumery with 4lie tstur i g to them to have their ow bespoke fragra 4e ma%e whi4hwill ot be fou % o the high street0 'he atural perfumery tre %has bee growi g to the e>te t that big perfumerAs houses a %perfume 4riti4s are ow re4og isi g atural perfumers as4ompetitors a % as maEor players i their i %ustry )whereas a fewyears ago= we were see as @hippiesAN+0 e4e tly the famous Forbes/agaMi e has pla4e% o e atural perfumer= /a %y ;ftel= as o e of

the 1 biggest bespoke perfumers i their #** list0Copyright notice:This booklet has been compiled by Isabelle Gell and is the intellectual property of the author.


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'O*FAC)ORY GROUP+ Fragra 4es are 4lassifie% i olfa4tory )or perfume+ families= ea4h of them

havi g a sub?family(



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O*FAC)ORY GROUP+ A*+O CA**E7 DPERFUME FAMI*IE+@y0

>amples( Fuel for Life :olog e for wome byDiesel /itsouko by Guerlai & owi g by steeLau%er :uir %e ussie by :ha el

+UBFAMI*IE+: Floral )rose a % Easmi e+ a % fruity)pea4h+

; a44or% base% o o e or more aromati4herbs= su4h as sage or rosemary0

>amples( Fleur %u /Ole :olog e by GaultierFuel for Life :olog e for me by Diesel

+UBFAMI*IE+:? Fo"ge e acco $ )lave %er= gera ium= oakmoss+=? A3"at%c )4e%ar= fir= musk= bla4k4urra t+=? F esh )rosewoo%= vetiver+=? R"st%c )pi e ee%le= gi ger+

C%t "s C%t "s

:itrus oils= k ow to perfumers as !esperi%ia = are thekey eleme ts i this family that i 4lu%es all eau>fraH4hes 0

>amples( Jerbe as of Prove 4e by o /alo e au %e:olog e Impriale by Guerlai

+UBFAMI*IE+: ;romati4 )thyme= tarrago = basil= mi t+

'he light a % fresh 4hara4ter of 4itrus otes

su4h as bergamot= ora ge= lemo = petit graia % ta geri e is e ri4he% by aromati4= woo%ya % spi4y a44or%s0

>amples( au %e :itrus by /oli ar% :& 7 e by:alvi &lei

+UBFAMI*IE+: ;romati4 )to ka= iris+

Flo al O %ental

'he large floral family i 4lu%es all fragra 4es with aflower or bou8uet as their mai theme0

>amples( oy by Patou Aa%ore by Dior Blo %e byJersa4e :ha el o0. ;marige by Give 4hy

+UBFAMI*IE+: Gree )galba um+= rose violet= tuberose=woo%y;l%ehy%es( ; imal= pow%ery or slightly woo%y

pi4es= woo% a % va illa harmo iMe to 4reatei te se a % sophisti4ate% perfumes0

>amples( lega 4e by La4oste I timatelyBe4kham ight for him 'oba44o Ja ille by 'om

For% Ji tage %itio by &e Mo+UBFAMI*IE+: Fougere= spi4y= woo%yflorie tal

O %ental Woo$,

5here warmth meets se suality0 /usk= va illa a %pre4ious woo%s with a tou4h of tropi4al flowers a %spi4e0

>amples( halimar by Guerlai /ust by :artier /agieoire by La 4Qme Bal R Jersailles by ea DespreM

+UBFAMI*IE+:Floral )gar%e ia+=

? pi4y )4i amo = utmeg= 4love+=? Ja illa= sa %alwoo%= 4e%ar

Flo %ental ( spi4es= resi s a % flowers

'his family bri gs together perfumes whose keya44or% is base% o woo%y s4e ts su4h assa %alwoo%= pat4houli= 4e%ar or vetiver0

>amples( ;%ve ture by Davi%off 2#2 plash/e by :aroli e !errera Passio Boise byFrapi Jersa4e pour !omme

+UBFAMI*IE+:? A3"at%c )4offee= 4ar%amom+=? A o#at%c )thyme= rosemary= sage+=? Ch,p e )oakmoss= lab%a um+? Flo al #"s1 )oakmoss= violet= agar woo%=pat4houli+? +p%c, )pepper= 4love= 4i amo +

$ource% &mo&.com
http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=10http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=7http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=11http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=5http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=11http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=5http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=10http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=7http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=11http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=5http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=11http://www.osmoz.com/encyclo/familles_fiche.asp?ID=5


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' MANUFAC)URING )EC6NIHUE+: ; MAINME)6O7+

sse tial oils a % esse 4es %erive from the e>tra4tio of the esse 4e of a

pla t= a flower= leaves= woo% or a resi aimi g at repro%u4i g the4hara4teristi4s of these 4ompo e ts either to be use% i perfumery or as aflavouri g aroma a % for me%i4i al purposes0

'he e>tra4tio metho%s vary from tra%itio al o es pro%u4i g esse tial oilsto mo%er a % a%va 4e% o es usi g 4hemi4al pro4esses pro%u4i gsy theti4 mole4ules0

4' E-p ess%on

>pressio is the pro4ess use% to e>tra4t the esse 4e from 4itrus fruit0 'hefruit bark is separate% a % pier4e% a % me4ha i4ally presse% )4ol% pro4ess+0

'he e>tra4t is settle% the filtere% o wet paper to separate the water partsfrom the oils0

' 7%st%llat%on

Distillatio allows the separatio of soli%s a % all the volatile 4ompo e tsthrough steam0 ;lembi4s are use% to heat the ble % of s4e te% 4ompo e tsa % water0 'he water steam moves the s4e te% eleme ts through a %istillatio4olum a % are the 4oole% off a % fi ally 4olle4te% i a vase0 5ithsettleme t= water is separate% from the eleme ts ame% @esse 4esA0

' +ol0ent e-t act%on

'his metho% 4o sists of a%%i g a solve t i the vegetal 4ompo e ts0 'hissolve t will e>tra4t the s4e ts0 'ra%itio ally 4alle% @ en!le" age A= this was%o e @4ol%A with fats su4h as lar%0 'he result was poma%es or s4e te% oils0

'hese fats have to%ay bee repla4e% by volatile solve ts su4h as he>a e=etha ol or 4arbo %io>i%e whi4h are heate%0 'he = they are elimi ate% throughevaporatio = isolati g a wa>?like matter 4alle% @ conc ete A0 'he 4o 4rete isble %e% i al4ohol= heate%= 4oole% off a % purifie%0 7 4e the al4ohol hasevaporate%= the result is a @ a&sol"te A0

' En!le" age

:ol% e fleurage is the most a 4ie t metho% whi4h is very rarely use% to%ay

%ue to the le gthy time it takes a % the low yiel% it pro%u4es0 It wastra%itio ally use% for fragile flowers su4h as ora ge flowers= tuberose a % Easmi e0 Petals were ha % 4olle4te% a % pla4e% i fi e layers o a imal fatssprea% over a glass plate )4alle% 4hassis+0 very 26 or 6, hours= petals wereremove% a % repla4e% with fresh o es0 'hese operatio s 4o ti ue% u tilsaturatio of the fats0 'he resulti g s4e te% poma%e was s4rape% a % washe%with wi e spirit to pro%u4e i fusio s0

' CO e-t act%on

:72 is pla4e% u %er pressure with a temperature below 6*V: a % goesthrough various stages u til it be4omes li8ui% a % be4omes a solve t as li8ui%as gas0 'his @softA e>tra4tio metho% is e>4elle t to obtai pure olfa4tory



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substa 4es with low volatility a % works well o %rie% raw materials su4h aswoo%s0 'he :72 is re4y4le% i si%e the system a % %oes ot pollute0 It is a o ?harmful gas whi4h 4a be release% i the atmosphere0

J' +,nthet%c #olec"les

;fter ma y years of resear4h= o 4e a ew mole4ule has bee sele4te%= verysophisti4ate% metho%s are impleme te% to pro%u4e it i big a % stable8ua tities0 'his ma ufa4turi g pro4ess 4a be le gthy a % i 4lu%e variousoperatio s i 4lu%i g 4hloratio = %istillatio = hy%roge atio = etherifi4atio W It isthe 4omple>ity of 4hemi4al rea4tio s 4ombi e% with the various stages

ee%e% whi4h i flue 4e the 4osts of a sy theti4 raw material0

;' 6ea$space techn%3"e o Nat" eP %nt te sively= parti4ularly for pla ts iremote 4ou tries su4h as 4ertai spi4es or fruit0 It is also use% to 4apture theesse 4e of some pla ts whi4h aturally smell gorgeous but that 4a ot bee>tra4te% through the more tra%itio al metho%s as they will ot give up theirsmell0 'hese i 4lu%e flowers like Lily of the Jalley or violet0 'he esse 4e is4apture% %ire4tly from the fresh flower= a % the resear4he% i laboratorieswith various e>tra4ts 4reate%0 'hese are assesse% agai st gaseous4hromatography a % mass spe4trometry0 7 4e these %ata have beea alyse%= the subtle a % 4omple> s4e t is re4o stru4te%0



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' +)AR)ING YOUR OWN PERFUME CREA)IONIng e$%ents

# 4lea spa4e # otebook a % pe labels pipettes # measureme t 4yli %er )#* ml or higher+ Bla k 4opies of perfume pyrami% # set of top otes esse tial oilsX # set of heart otes esse tial oilsX # set of base otes esse tial oilsX :arrier oil )EoEoba or fra4tio ate% 4o4o ut+ or al4ohol ; set of $* ml amber or 4lear glass bottles Dry i sta t 4offee i a 4up to 4lear your ostrils

7% ect%ons

You %o At ee% to have a y k owle%ge o 4hemistry i or%er to 4reate a aturalperfume but you %o ee% a high %egree of i tuitio a % a se se of smell0

You also ee% to k ow those oils whi4h have to be ha %le% with 4autio %ue totheir photose sitivity pote tial or their pote 4y as you will have to use theirspari gly i or%er to avoi% a y allergi4 rea4tio s0 You 4a fi % i teresti gi formatio about the pote tial rea4tio s of some esse tial oils o the followi gwebsite( http://((('a o#a#e$%cal'co#

;s a refere 4e basis= a bala 4e% ;'" ;L perfume is usually 4ompose% of #(? 5 5L top notes

? 5 5L hea t notes? 45 5L &ase notes

ome perfumers might argue that the highest per4e tage shoul% be the baseotes0 'his really %epe %s o your liki gs as too ma y base otes might give a

heavy a % woo%y s4e t= ot appre4iate% by everyo e0

I the e>t paragraph= I will give you a e>ample of what this mea s whe usi g%rops or millilitres0

IMPOR)AN): WRI)E 7OWN E9ERY)6ING INC*U7ING ANY C6ANGE YOUMAKE IN )6E FU)URE'

REMEMBER : YOU CAN A*WAY+ A77 BU) NE9ER REMO9E +O A77 NO)E+4 BY ONE AN7 *E) )6EM +I) BEFORE A77ING MORE'

* See the table of notes in the starter kit page to eter!ine those notes

## :ommer4ial perfumers state that the per4e tage is 2.T top otes= $*T heart otes a % .*Tbase otes0 I atural perfumes= I fou % that there was a ee% for more top otes0 !owever= theper4e tages 4a be altere% a44or%i g to the oils you use as lo g as you try to keep a bala 4e0



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http://www.aromamedical.com/http://www.aromamedical.com/


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J' +)AR)ER KI)

'he i gre%ie ts to make perfumes 4a be very 4ostly0 I a%vise to start with thebasi4 list below0 7 4e you have got a48uai te% to how the oils ble % together=you 4a the a%% the more e>pe sive o es to 4reate fabulous perfumes=

fragra 4es= 4a %les a % a y pro%u4t i whi4h you wa t a s4e t0I also use esse tial oils a lot i my 4ooki g0 'his is where I fi % my i spiratio 0 ustthi kN For i sta 4e= basil a % lemo or 4ar%amom a % 4offee are great i foo% a %%ri ks0 5he you e>perie 4e= try to fi % your i spiratio somewhere0 It 4a beyour gar%e ( observe how some flowers seem to blossom more e>t to somerather tha others0

; other e>ample is that you %o At fi % gar%e ia e>t to lave %er i the tropi4s0 You 4a try mi>i g them together but you will oti4e that lave %er te %s to be aflower of its ow a % to take over0 If you are goi g to mi> them together= wat4hyour 8ua tities0



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)OP NO)E+ 6EAR) NO)E+ BA+E NO)E+

Pet%tg a%n P%ne Patcho"l%

Be ga#ot Rose Peppe

+age )h,#e Ben o%n

Cha#o#%le Peppe #%nt Rose(oo$

*e#on Ylang ,lang +an$al(oo$

*e#ong ass C%nna#on 9et%0e

*%#e Ca $a#o# M, h

F an1%ncense Co %an$e Oa1#oss

G ape! "%t >"n%pe &e , Ce$a (oo$

Gal&an"# Ge an%"# Clo0e &"$

*a0en$e G%nge O %s

O ange >as#%ne *a&$an"#

N"t#eg

"lso heart notes "lso top notes


15/23


16/23

=' A*CO6O* OR CARRIER OI*

o ow= you have prepare% your base a % you wa t to 4reate your fi al perfume0First= you ee% to %etermi e what you wa t it to be(

; au %e :olog e

; au %e toilette ; au %e parfum ; pure perfume ; soli% perfume ; aftershave

'he = you must %e4i%e whether you wa t it i al4ohol or oil0 I the e>tparagraph= we are goi g to %is4uss ea4h possibility a % work out theper4e tages ee%e% a44or%i g to your prefere 4es0 But first letAs talk aboutthe al4ohol0

;l4ohol makes it easier to fi> the perfume o the ski a % also a4ts as apreservative= allowi g the perfume to have a lo ger shelf life0 5hereas iFra 4e a % ma y uropea 4ou tries= it is ge erally 8uite easy to get a #** mlbottle of 9*T al4ohol from the 4hemistAs 4ou ter= i the "&= regulatio s makeit e>tremely har% to obtai al4ohol a % the o ly available o es are graial4ohol su4h as vo%ka0 othi g preve ts you from tryi g with grape al4oholsu4h as :og a4 but the prese 4e of sugar i those will make it more %iffi4ult tofi ish the fragra 4e0

For your homema%e perfumes= I re4omme % usi g vo%ka at a mi imum of61T volume0 'he higher the volume= the easier it will be to 4reate yourperfume0 You might be able to obtai a small #** ml bottle of 9*T al4oholfrom a %o4tor or ! worker if you k ow a y or otherwise= if you %e4i%e to

make a busi ess out of it= you 4a re8uest a li4e se from !/ :ustoms a %>4ise but the you ee% a spe4ial storage pla4e for health a % safetyregulatio s0 ome al4ohol li4e se% %istributors %o pro%u4e perfumerAs al4oholat 96T volume whi4h is %e ature% al4ohol use% by perfumers0

'he more straightforwar% way is to go ba4k to the ol% system of usi g 4arrieroils0 'he ; 4ie ts use% olive oil but i the mo%er %ays= EoEoba or fra4tio ate%4o4o ut oils are use% %ue to their lo g shelf life as they are re ow e% for their

atural a tio>i%a t properties0 ;lmo % oil is also a i4e alter ative but it isre4omme %e% to a%% some Jitami i this type of 4arrier oil0 'he beauty ofoils is that they %o ot alter the smell of your ble % a % te % to last lo ger oyour ski as they pe etrate through the ski upper layers0



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?' CREA)ING A C*A++IC EAU 7E CO*OGNENAPO*EONate the s4e t0 'he purpose of the au %e :olog e is torefresh0

ow= if you a%% some vetiver= pat4houli= ma %ari = 4oria %er a % va illa i thee>ample ble %= you e % up with a lovely aftershave or u ise> fragra 4e0

'he typi4al per4e tage for a aftershave is #* to #.T ble % i #**T al4ohol0 Ifyou wa t to use wit4h haMel to prote4t the ski agai st raMor bur = use -*Tal4ohol a % 6*T wit4h haMel0 I our e>ample= you woul% use $* ml al4ohol a % 2*ml wit4h haMel0

'he gly4eri e is use% as a fi>ative to make the smell last lo ger but it is alsohelpi g to elimi ate the se satio of %ry ess 4ause% by al4ohol o the ski 0Besi%es it has some a ti?o>i%a t properties for a lo ger shelf life0 Note thatgl,ce %ne %s ne0e "se$ %n ca %e o%l'

Isabelles tip!



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18/23

0hen using carrier oil instead of alcohol' do not hesitate to double the top notes as the oil tends toabsorb top notes &uickly and make the scent more volatile.



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19/23

45' CREA)ING A F*ORA* EAU 7E )OI*E))E

Ing e$%ents $* %rops yla g yla g #2 %rops pat4houli

#2 %rops sa %alwoo% 2 %rops Easmi e 6 %rops rose ] 4sp gly4eri e #. ml al4ohol or 4arrier oil #* ml %istille% water 2 ml rosewater

7% ect%ons 'he au %e toilette is the most 4lassi4 way of usi g perfume as a %aily fragra 4ea % i the %ay time0 It is well suite% for those people who %o ot like stro g smellsas it is more %is4reet tha perfumes0

'he typi4al per4e tage for a au %e toilette is #,?$*T ble % i al4ohol0 I aturalperfumery= it really %epe %s o the ble % itself0 I typi4ally a%% $*T ble % i theal4ohol as it allows the perfume to last lo ger0 !owever= this pro4ess is 8uitee>pe sive if you i te % to make a busi ess out of atural perfumes0

For your 4reatio s= I a%vise you to visualise your perfume a % how you wa t it tosmell like before starti g0 It will help your i tuitio 0 You ee% to get a48uai te%with the way oils ble % with ea4h other0 mell them a % write otes about howyou feel about them= what they remi % you of et40

ote that be4ause of the %istille% water a % rosewater= your ble % will lookblurre% to start with0 Put it i the fri%ge for a 4ouple of weeks to allow it to settlea % the = filter u til 4lear )see 'e4h i4alities for the filteri g pro4ess+0

1earn to create accords which you can then blend together to make a perfume. 2or e$ample'blend 3 drops of oakmoss to + drop of vetiver to obtain a chypre base accord.

Isabelles tip!/se the soaked filter paper to make a room fragrance: place them in a blend of alcohol and water andleave to macerate for a few weeks. lace in a sprayer and spray your house with your favourite scent4

!n e$ample of genuine 5recycling67

.



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20/23

44' EAU 7E PARFUM AN7 CONCEN)RA)E7PERFUME

'he %iffere 4e betwee a au %e parfum a % a 4o 4e trate% perfume is theper4e tage of ble % use% i the al4ohol0 I a 4o 4e trate% perfume= the

per4e tage of ble % is high a % be4ause this 4o 4e trate is so e>pe sive= you willusually see pure perfumes 4o tai e% i small . to #. ml bottles at a verye>pe sive pri4e0

Both are usually wor for eve i gs out or spe4ial o44asio s although /arily/o roe was re ow e% for weari g her e>pe sive :ha el o0. while sleepi gN

au %e Parfum a % perfumes also have a imalisti4 bases su4h as 4ivet= musk orambergris or leather o es su4h as agar woo% a % bir4h0 'he a imal bases are%iffi4ult to fi % i their atural state owa%ays %ue to the 4ruelty o the a imals)4ivet or %eer+ so te % to be repla4e% by sy theti4ally repro%u4e% o es0 'heambergris essence is the most 4ommo ly use%0 It is a atural stoma4h reEe4tiofrom the sperm whale whi4h %oes ot i volve a y harm to the mammal0 'hee>4reme t is washe% out by the sea o the sa % a % over the years= gives astro g smell to this most pre4ious @sto eA0 'he atural alter ative to ambergris isvegetal ambrette seeds 0 gar wood is a leather ote most 4ommo ly k ow ithe famous @:uir %e ussieA perfume by :ha el= base% o the :ossa4k leatherboots rubbe% agai st bir4h tree0

7 e way to e sure your perfume is stro g a % lo g lasti g is to ti 4ture yourfavourite base ote i al4ohol a % let it ma4erate for at least $ mo ths0 Fori sta 4e= if you like sa %alwoo%= ti 4ture #* ml of sa %alwoo% i #** ml of al4oholor 4arrier oil0 'he = you a%% your perfume ble % i to it a % let it ma4erate agai 0

You will e % up with a te a4ious perfume si 4e the al4ohol itself has beeimpreg ate% with the oil0 'his same pro4ess is use% with ambergris0

+ol%$ pe !"#e is fashio able agai 0 It use% to be the way to make perfumesbefore al4ohol starte% to be use%0 'he simplest way is to buy the @4o 4reteAe>tra4te% from the flower )this is the butter whi4h 4omes out the first e>pressioof the flowers through the enfleurage pro4ess+0 For i sta 4e= you 4a ble % #* gof rose 4o 4rete with 2* %rops of sa %alwoo%0 oli% perfume is use% a lot i the/i%%le ast as it is al4ohol free0 It also offers the be efit of bei g able to smellyour favourite flower i its purest state0

'here are more 4omple> ways to 4reate a soli% perfume whi4h is to ble % EoEobaoil with beeswa> a % the perfume o heat but I am i favour of remai i g as 4loseas possible to what ature offers u less you have a lot of spa4e a % spe4ial potsa % pa s for maki g perfumes i your kit4he 0



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4 ' C6I**ING2 FI*)ERING AN7 7ECAN)INGPROCE++I or%er for your perfume to have a lo ger lasti g power a % to e sure it is4leare% off a y resi%ues= you will ee% to 4hill a % %e4a t your perfume0

'he C6I**ING pro4ess allows all the resi%ues to get to the bottom of the bottle sothat all you ee% the is to filter a % %e4a t0 'o %o so= o 4e you have ma%e yourperfume a % a%%e% the al4ohol= pla4e it for 26 hours i the freeMer0 ote that thispro4ess %oes ot apply to perfume with a vegetable oil base0

;fter 26 hours= take it out a % let it sit i room temperature0 You shoul% seeresi%ues at the bottom o 4e it has warme% up0

'o FIL' = you have two optio s( 'he most straightforwar% is to pla4e a filter )a tea filter paper fol%e% i two

is i%eal but you 4a also use a thi wall 4offee filter+ i a fu el )%o ot usea big fu el as you might loose more perfume+ a % slowly pour yourperfume i to the fu el a % %e4a t i a ew bottle0 'he resi%ues will

remai i the filter0 'he problem with this pro4ess is that sometimes= theesse tial oils are so thi4k that you might ee% to filter several times beforeyou get a 4lear perfume )si 4e the resi%ues will keep o tra sferri g wheyou %e4a t+0 ome perfumers use FullerAs arth to e sure the resi%ues goto the bottom of the bottle a % stay0

'he other optio re8uires more pre4isio but e sures that resi%ues remaiat the bottom of the bottle0 It is ot suitable if you use bottles of over .*ml 4o te t0 "si g a pipette= take out the top part of the pro%u4t a %tra sfer i the ew bottle0 /ake sure your pipette %oes ot tou4h thebottom of the bottle so that you %o At fill it with some resi%ues0

5hi4hever optio you use= ote that you will have some loss of pro%u4t0 o if youwish to fill i a bottle of .* ml= you shoul% a4tually prepare .. ml of pro%u4t= for

e>ample0



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22/23

4 ' CREA)ING A C6YPRE BA+E

Ing e$%ents

Z #* %rops grapefruitZ , %rops bergamotZ , %rops roseZ #2 %rops oakmossXZ 2 %rops 4e%arwoo%Z , %rops lab%a umZ $* %rops be MoiZ $ %rops va illa

Note: these last th ee o%ls a e the &ase to c eate a nat" al a#&e acco $

#* ml EoEoba or fra4tio ate% 4o4o ut or 2* ml al4ohol

7% ect%ons

'he :hypre family is the most fle>ible o e i perfumery as it 4a give se sual orsophisti4ate%= mas4uli e or femi i e perfumes0 'his is the family of the Fre 4h4lassi4 perfumes su4h as /itsouko of Guerlai or /a Griffe of :arve or ;ramis

au %e toilette for /e 0 'he base is a44or%s of oakmoss= 4istus?lab%a um=pat4houli a % bergamot= to whi4h floral or fruity otes 4a be a%%e%0

For a great a % a%%i4tive mas4uli e fragra 4e= I suggest a%%i g . to #* %rops ofvetiver to obtai a 4lassi4 :hypre vetiver )Guerlai As o e is the most famous+ or .to , %rops of sa %alwoo% for a :hypre sa %alwoo%0

For a femi i e fragra 4e= the 4reativity is u limite%0 ;%% a few %rops of floralesse tial oils to 4reate a typi4al early 2* th 4e tury :hypre perfume0 ; % if youwoul% like a slightly smoky result= a%% $ %rops of 4i amo leaf i the e %0

'his base is both easy a % 4omple> to play with a % it guara tees very i teresti gresults while bei g fu to 4reate0 I or%er ot to waste too mu4h of the e>pe siveesse tial oils= start a%%i g small 8ua tities= smell a % a%% u til you like the fi alresult0 You are free to a%% as ma y oils as you wa t to this base but beware ofthose oils su4h as Easmi e a % tuberose whi4h te % to overwhelm the rest0

7' ( owa%ays you 4a fi % fruit smells repro%u4e% aturally as @e>tra4tsA )you4a fi % some i supermarkets+0 ;%%i g a bla4kberry or raspberry e>tra4t to the:hypre base will result i a savoury sweet a % fruity perfume0

0hen using alcohol as a carrier base' add blackcurrant bud to give a sweet' fruity smell to the

Chypre base. !gain' don6t hesitate to add more top notes if you are using an oil base.



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4 ' *I+) OF RARE AN7 E8PEN+I9E OI*+

7 4e you have got a48uai te% with the basi4s= you 4a start e>perime ti g with

the rarest oils )but also the most e>pe sive o es+0 Below is a list of those use% ifi e a % lu>urious perfumery0 'heir high pri4e makes them u i8ue a % owa%ays=they are rarely use% i perfumery whi4h is a real shame si 4e they 4a a%% somu4h more to a perfume0 I the 4omfort of your home a % for your ow perso aluse= it 4a be a i%ea to a48uire some0 I also give you the ame of a 4ouple ofwebsites o whi4h you 4a pur4hase your oils0 For rarer o es= you are free to4o ta4t me as I have a44ess to some @professio alA pro%u4ers\suppliers0

;4a4ia ;gar woo% ):ambo%ia+ ;ustralia a % I %ia sa %alwoo% Blo % toba44o

Blue 4ypress Bourbo gera ium ) eu io isla %+ Broom :ar atio Dava a Freesia Gar%e ia 'ahite sis )'ahiti flower+ Germa 4hamomile I ula apa ese osma thus asmi e samba4 )I %ia+ /ag olia )4hampa4a+ /imosa ar4issus )very rare+ eroli )'u isia+ 7rris absolute Pi k lotus );sia+ ho%o%e %ro ose %e /ai )4e tifolia rose from Grasse+ ose otto )'urkish ; atolia rose+ osewoo% pike ar% );meri %ia pla t+ 'o ka bea )va illa smell with a 4o4o ut u %erto e also k ow as

@4oumari A a % fou % i pipe toba44o+ 'uberose Jiolet leaf ) gypt a % Fra 4e+


Reference made to other sources is mentioned whenever applicable. lease be aware that this booklet

education booklet on making perfumes

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