TRAVEL

★ Star break: CARDIFF ★

BRAVING the April showers in Cardiff, Doctor Who star David Tennant soldiered on as he fi lmed the Timelord’s

latest escapades this week. The Welsh capital may not be able to compete with the Mediterranean when it comes to glorious weather but if you are looking for a fun and affordable UK break, it ticks all the boxes.

Soak up some Welsh culture with a visit to Cardiff Castle (above), in the stunning gardens of Bute Park. Explore the medieval ruins and take in panoramic views of the city from the open-air roof terrace.

Make sure you fi nd time to stop by the National Museum Cardiff. On display until June 14 is the work of the late landscape and Impressionist painter Alfred Sisley, who was heavily inspired by Wales. The collection includes acclaimed depictions of the rocks at Langland Bay and Penarth.

From 19th-century artists to the latest technology with a visit to Techniquest, a hands-on science centre in Cardiff Bay. Ideal for all

the family, spend time gazing at the stars in the Planetarium or mastering the puzzles and gadgets in the main hall.

● INFORMATION: Superbreak (0871 222 3055/www.superbreak.

com) offers two nights B&B at the St David’s Hotel and Spa in Cardiff from £99pp (two sharing).

CATHERINE BOYLE

AT EXACTLY midday on Friday 13th the sky went black. Armageddon arriving in east

London right on cue? No, just the four-ton, 24ft luxury motorhome I’d hired for the weekend, so vast it seemingly cast a shadow across the whole postcode.

I surveyed the humming, glinting beast with awe and apprehension, half expecting an irate Angelina Jolie to stumble out brandishing a rolled-up fi lm script. Instead it was amiable Charles Glover, owner of Voyager Motorhome Hire, with a beginner’s guide to this slightly esoteric, increasingly popular mode of holidaying.

Camping without the canvas; a hotel room with an ever-changing view; travel with no airports or luggage. The logic of motorhoming is certainly persuasive. Innovations in style and comfort have lent these once-derided “lane cloggers” new credibility, with everyone from enterprising young families to intrepid empty-nesters getting in on the act.

Forget mod cons. These are all about the “gizmos”, everything from mood lighting and central heating to DVD players and stand-alone shower. Outside may be Bognor’s windswept car park but inside it’s the Ritz.

So exhaustively equipped was my six-berth Fiat Carioca 746 model, the briefi ng took almost an hour. I listened intently, nodded sagely and then tore off half the back wing as I drove out of the gate. That’s Friday 13th for you (although the 12ft rear overhang undoubtedly played a part). With the help of next door’s builders, at least those who weren’t doubled-up, I managed to reattach the lights, tape up the bumper and I was off, tentatively, to pick up my “motorhomies”, partner Eleen and friends Sam and Hayley.

Our destination, like motorhoming, is enjoying something of a renaissance. When I briefl y lived on the isle of Portland in Dorset in the Nineties, it was a place of quirky isolation offering much the same appeal to visitors as “England” did to its fi ercely partisan inhabitants. Much has changed. The vacuum created by the desertion of the MoD, for years the primary employer, has sucked in some long-overdue modernity.

There’s a smattering of top-end hotels and restaurants, a £25million marina and a genuine jewel in the Weymouth & Portland National Sailing Academy, the fi rst 2012 Olympic venue to be completed. Thomas Hardy’s “Gibraltar of the South Coast” is beginning to live up to its sobriquet.

We joined the mile-long causeway as early spring sunshine illuminated the isle’s steeply tiered face. WPNSA, a £15million reincarnation of the naval airfi eld, was abuzz. “2012 is a wonderful chance to inspire,” said chief executive John Tweed as he showed off the facilities. From the decked viewing area we watched Lasers and Optimists tacking across the breakwater-encircled harbour.

Further out, framed by the spectacular amphitheatre of the Jurassic Coast, 49ers planed along at precarious angles. In 2012, this venue will host 125 races over two weeks, with on-board cameras transmitting footage to big screens dotted along the shore. Sailing will never have been more box offi ce.

Speaking of which, the harbour can currently be seen on the big screen (albeit masquerading as the North Sea) in Working Title’s latest, star-studded offering, The Boat That Rocked. Bill Nighy, Rhys Ifans and the like “kept themselves to themselves”, we were disappointed to learn during a tour of Portland Castle, 200 yards from the academy.

This squat Tudor fortifi cation has an enthralling history, consummately evoked by custodians English Heritage. The best spot

for a sundowner is nearby Cove House Inn, with its views of Chesil Beach, the 18-mile shingle arc anchoring the isle to the mainland.

From here to the fabled Crab House Café, just off the causeway. Sandwiched between a caravan park and a pub, with chaotic service and village hall-style maritime décor, this place is all about the food. It is astonishingly good. To a soundtrack of cracking crabs and sizzling fi sh, we devoured succulent ling fi llets and Portland Royal oysters cooked “country style” with bacon and cream.

WHEN YOU’RE self-suffi cient, the temptation is to fi nd a quiet spot and park

up overnight. “Wild camping”, it’s called. Sounds glamorous. In fact it’s illegal, and the reality is sleep-interrupted nights worrying about jobsworths meting out fi nes.

Far better to head to an accredited “touring” site. We picked Hunter’s Moon, an excellent Caravan Club establishment on the outskirts of nearby market town, Wareham.

Having mastered the electric hook-up, we plucked a bottle of chilled white from the fridge and settled down to watch a DVD in the “living room”, the U-shaped rear seating area that later transformed into a large, comfy double for Eleen and myself. Sam and

Hayley slept, trucker-style, above the cab. First light saw us trundling up the steep road from Fortuneswell, Portland’s largest town, to Tophill. Occupying a prime spot here is the Heights Hotel, with its panoramic coastal views. We found a better one, parking on the cliff edge, where we unpacked the motorhome’s fold-away table and chairs and rustled up bacon and eggs as the harbour came to life far below.

This set us up for an energetic day. We hiked along the South West Coast Path, which skirts the island; we

swam in the clear waters of Church Ope Cove, beneath the forbidding ruins of Rufus Castle; we nearly got hypothermia; we warmed up in the Sugar Loaf Café in Easton, with its cake trolley and week-old daily newspaper laid out like a copy of Tatler; and we visited Portland Bill, Dorset’s southernmost point, with its iconic striped lighthouse.

Our fi nal destination was the Portland Spa hotel, an imposing art deco building that once housed the Admiralty Underwater Weapons Establishment. The isle’s top-rated hotel, it is expected to host various Olympic teams. Fitting, then, that as we tucked into a Sunday roast in its fairylit Orchid Restaurant, from hidden speakers drifted the unmistakable strains of Chariots Of Fire.

● INFORMATION: Voyager Motorhome Hire (0844 561 0996/www.voyagermotorhomehire.com) has a fl eet of two-, four-, and six-berth luxury vehicles less than 12 months old with layouts to suit couples, families and groups. Prices from £319 for a long weekend including unlimited mileage and insurance. The Caravan Club (01342 326944/www.caravanclub.co.uk) has 200 sites in the UK.WPNSA (01305 866000/www.wpnsa.org.uk).Portland Castle (01305 820539/www.english-heritage.org.uk). Adults £4; children £2.The Portland Spa (01305 826000/www.theportlandspa.com) has doubles from £140.Visit Portland: 01305 785747/www.visitportland.co.uk

next door’s builders, at least those who weren’t doubled-up, I managed to reattach the lights, tape up the bumper and

the Nineties, it was a place of

changed. The vacuum created

employer, has sucked in some

top-end hotels and restaurants, a £25million marina and a genuine jewel in the Weymouth

for a sundowner is nearby Cove House Inn, with its views of Chesil Beach, the 18-mile

Hayley slept, trucker-style, above the cab. First light saw us trundling up the steep road from Fortuneswell, Portland’s largest town, to Tophill. Occupying a prime spot here is the Heights Hotel, with its panoramic coastal views. We found a better one, parking on the cliff edge, where we unpacked the motorhome’s fold-away table and chairs and rustled up bacon and eggs as the harbour came to life far below.

energetic day. We hiked along the South West Coast Path, which skirts the island; we

swam in the clear waters of Church Ope Cove, beneath the forbidding ruins of Rufus Castle; we nearly got hypothermia; we warmed up in the Sugar Loaf Café in Easton, with its cake

DUNCAN CRAIG takes a luxury motorhome to Portland, which is enjoying an Olympic revival and some big-screen interest

THE OLD BILL: Novice motorhomers Hayley and Sam at Portland’s famous lighthouse. Inset, Olympic hopefuls in action at the London 2012 sailing venue

Freewheeling down the isle

TRAVEL

Be king of a castle

Scotland is blessed with more than its fair share of fortresses, with many converted to accommodate guests. BEN WEST picks the best for a quirky breakSAddELL CASTLE, Kintyre PeninsulaOne of the Landmark Trust’s selling points is the chance to stay in authentically restored historic properties without the distractions of plasma TVs, microwaves and other mod cons. That doesn’t mean that this splendid 16th-century tower house lying on the sheltered, western side of the Mull of Kintyre and facing the Kilbrannan Sound and Isle of Arran isn’t extremely comfortable.

Possessing fine touches such as panelling, an ornately decorated ceiling and a battlemented wall-walk around the roof, the windows embedded in the thick stone walls look out on fabulous countryside and Saddell Bay, where sea otters, kingfishers and even basking sharks can be seen near the deserted beach. l The Landmark Trust (01628 825925/www.landmarktrust.org.uk) offers seven nights self-catering from £752 (sleeps eight).

CASTLE FRASER, near Kemnay, AberdeenshireAn excellent example of Scottish Baronial architecture, the castle, which dates from 1575, is set in extensive grounds. Open to the public, it features a formal garden, estate trails and an adventure playground. Aberdeen is close by, with its many attractions including an excellent art gallery, maritime museum and botanic gardens.

The attractive, spacious, self-contained four-bedroom apartment provides ideal accommodation for two families. each wing has its own turret and spiral stone staircase, overlooks a delightful courtyard and is set amid parkland with lovely views of the castle. There is a sitting room, dining room, fitted kitchen with Aga cooker and a high standard of furniture and furnishings.l National Trust for Scotland (0844 493 2100/www.nts.org.uk) offers seven nights self-catering from £800 (sleeps seven).

BoRThwiCK CASTLE, near EdinburghIf self-catering isn’t your scene, try this cosy castle for some serious hotel-style Celtic pampering. Built in 1430, Borthwick is one of Scotland’s most important historic buildings and in 1567 was the refuge of Mary Queen of Scots.

It still bears the scars of being besieged by Oliver Cromwell.

The castle’s magnificent twin towers stand 100ft high from the dungeons to the battlements. Just 12 miles away is edinburgh and its castle, while good pubs are less than a mile away. Horse riding, golf, fishing, clay-pigeon shooting and falconry are available nearby.

The comfortable medieval bedchambers are mostly of stonewall and decked out in various tartans and antique furniture. Braver residents will no doubt plump for the Red Room, said to be haunted. The elegantly proportioned State Room boasts beautifully arched windows and tapestries, and guests dine in the candlelit Great Hall.l Celtic Castles (01422 323200/www.celticcastles.com) offers doubles from £130 per night (two sharing), B&B.

dALCRoSS CASTLE, inverness-shireYou don’t usually associate Scotland with the best of the UK’s weather but this gorgeous pink sandstone fortress set in 850 acres of informal grounds and woodland is located in one of Britain’s sunniest and driest areas. Built by the Fraser clan in 1620, it was the rallying point for troops quelling

the Jacobite uprising at the Battle of Culloden.

Mixing 21st-century comforts with the world of a bygone age, a good number of architectural features remain, including a beamed Great Hall with an enormous stone fireplace, a stone spiral staircase and leaded windows. Children with a siege mentality will adore the shot holes and arrow slits, while adults will appreciate the beautifully landscaped gardens and comfortable bedrooms.

Secluded behind stone walls and studded oak gates, the castle overlooks the Moray Firth and its dolphins and seals. Further afield are sandy beaches, pretty fishing ports, John O’Groats and several other historic castles.l Cottages and Castles (01738 451610/www.cottages-and-castles.co.uk) offers two nights self- catering from £4,000 (sleeps 12).

TowER oF hALLBAR, Braidwood, South Lanarkshirenestled in the beautiful Clyde Valley a 45-minute drive from Glasgow, this imposing four-storey stronghold set within five acres of orchard and meadow was built around 1581 as protection against english Border raiders. The battlemented parapet and a second-floor garderobe (wardrobe or bedroom) were added in the Victorian period.

The heraldic ceiling paintings, rich fabrics and oak furniture help transport you back to the 16th century in this four-star graded property. Restored by the Vivat Trust, the bedrooms are very comfortable and feature numerous antiques but the uneven, steep stone stairs make the property unsuitable for very young children, the elderly or infirm.l The Vivat Trust (0845 090 0194/ www.vivat.org.uk) offers seven nights self-catering from £755 (sleeps five).

l Visit Scotland: 0845 225 5121/www.visitscotland.comRoCK SoLid: The 16th-century Tower of hallbar has comfy rooms

SToNE AGE: dalcross Castle, with its magnificent Great hall, right, combines the best of 21st-century comforts and delightful period features

SUNDAY EXPRESS April 12, 200986 SUNDAY EXPRESS April 12, 2009 87

£5497 days from only

The fully escorted price includes:

Andalucia is simply one of the most beautiful corners of Europe. It’s a land where the excesses of the 20th century seem not to have taken root and where travellers are genuinely welcomed as honoured guests, rarther then as tourists.

Classical SpainRegular departures up to October 2009

7 days from only

£549NO SURCHARGES

GUARANTEEDNO SURCHARGES

GUARANTEED

� Return flights to Malaga from Gatwick, Luton, Manchester, Birmingham, East Midlands, Leeds/Bradford, Blackpool, Exeter, Southampton, Cardiff, Glasgow, Edinburgh or Belfast� Six nights bed & breakfast at excellent quality three and four-star hotels, staying in Seville, Granada and Mijas� Unspoiled Andalucia, perhaps the most Spanish province in the country� Guided tour of Seville� Guided tour of the stunning Alhambra Palace in Granada� Visit to Cordoba home to the Mezquita - one of the finest mosques ever built� Visit to Ronda – one of the most spectacularly situated cities in Spain� Accompanied by an experienced Spanish-speaking tour manager

0871 521 1653 to requesta brochure

Or visit the website www.expriviera.co.uk for more great offers

Call

Calls cost 10p p/min from a BT landline. Mobile and other providers’ costs may vary. Prices based on per person sharing a twin room, single rooms available at a supplement, optional insurance extra. Holiday organised by Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road. Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and is offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected.

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