effects of time on dyeing of different cotton fabrics with reactive dye. 47

7/25/2019 Effects of Time on Dyeing of Different Cotton Fabrics With Reactive Dye. 47

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Sumon Mazumder

Assistant Professor,Department of Textile EngineeringDaffodil International University

Shirajum MoniraID !"#$%&$#'!(

Md)*ashedul +aueID !"#$%&$#'#&

M)-)+asanID !"#$%&$#''#

.evel$', Term$&Department of Textile Engineering

Daffodil International University

# Daffodil International University Library

Project/Thesis

n!

"#ffects of Time on Dyein$ of Different %otton &abrics 'ith (eactive Dye)


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%ontents

Topi/s Page

%ha*ter! + ,-

-., im of the Project0000000..000000000000....0000.1

%ha*ter! + ,2

2., Introduction000000000000000000000......00.0. 3

%)# 0hy this su1je/t 1een /hosen))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) 2

%)% 0hy /otton fi1ers 3 rea/tive dyes 1een used4)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))2

%)& 0hy time is ne/essary for dyeing /otton fa1ri/ 5ith rea/tive dye))))))))))))))))))))2

%)' Effe/t of time for dyeing /otton fa1ri/ 5ith rea/tive dye444444))442

%)( 0hat is organi/ /otton and ho5 is it gro5n444444444444)))))))6

%)7 0hy does the industry 5ant to use organi/ /otton444444)44))))446

%)2 8hara/teristi/s of /otton44444444444444444)))44)4)6

%)6 9i1er Properties of a//ording to 8otton444)44444444))44 6$#!

%)" 9i1er stru/ture and formation4))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))#!$##

%)#! *a5 /otton /omponent)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) ##

%)## *epeat unit of /ellulose))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #%

%)#% Physi/al properties of /otton))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #&

%)#%)# 9i1er length44444))444)4444)44)44)))44444

#&

%)#%)% .ength uniformity)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

#&

%)#%)& 9i1er strength)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #& %)#%)' Mi/ronaire)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #'

%)#%)( 8olor))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #'

%)#%)7 Trash))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #'

%)#%)2 .eaf grade))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #'

%)#%)6 Preparation)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #'

%)#%)" Extraneous matter))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #'

%)#%)#! :eps))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #'

%)#& 8hemi/al properties of /otton))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #(

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%)#&)# Insert formula or euation oxy$/ellulose4444444444)))#7

%)#' ;pti/al properties of /otton44444444444444)4)4444#7

%)#( 8otton /lassifi/ation)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #7

%)#7 8otton in non$5oven))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #7

%)#2 9i1er pro/essing)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #2

%)#6 8ost of produ/ing /otton)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #2$#6

%)#" *epeat unit of /ellulose4))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))#6

%)%! End use of /otton)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #6

%)%% *ea/tive dye)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #"

%)%& 8lassifi/ation of rea/tive dyes))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) #"

%)%' Properties of rea/tive dyes)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) %!

%)%( 0hy rea/tive dyes are /alled fi1er rea/tive dye)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) %#$%%

%)%7 *ea/tivity of rea/tive dyes and its appli/ation))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) %%$%&

%)%7)# Properties of rea/tive dyes)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) %&$%'

%)%7)% Appli/ation properties of rea/tive dye))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) %'

%)%7)& Stru/ture of rea/tive red dyes))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) %'

%)%7)' 8hemi/al stru/ture of rea/tive 1lue)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) %'

%ha*ter! + ,4

4.-Materials000000000000000000000000000.....25

&)#)#Spe/ifi/ation of plain 5eave44444444444444))))))444)%7

&)#)% Spe/ifi/ations of T5ill 5eave44444444)4444444)4)%7$%2

&)#)& Spe/ifi/ation of Single


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&)%)6 0or=ing pro/edure4)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

&)& 8olor and /olorfastness4444444444444444444444)

&)' 8olor fastness tests used in textile4))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))) $&%

&)( >rey s/ale444444444444)4444444444))4)44) &%$&&

&)7 8olor fastness to 5ashing4))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))&&

&)7)# *euired apparatus4))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))&&

&)7)% Pro/edure4))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))&&

&)2 8olor fastness to 5ater ?IS; #!( E;#@44444444444444)))&&

&)6 8olor fastness to perspiration al=aline 3 a/id solution4))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))&'

&)6)# Pro/edure4)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))&'

&)6)% Prepare solution4))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))&'

&)6)& Al=aline Solution4))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))&'

&)6)' A/id solution4))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))&'

%ha*ter! + ,7

7., (esult and Discussion0000000000000000000000...45

')#*esult of 8olor 9astness to 5ater of 8otton 9a1ri/4444444444)))&7

')#)# >raphi/al representation of 5ater fastness properties of /otton fa1ri/)4)&7

')#)% Dis/ussion for /olor fastness to 5ater444444444444)))))))))&7

')% *esult of /olor fastness to 5ash of /otton fa1ri/444444444444))&2

')%)# >raphi/al representation of 5ash fastness properties of /otton fa1ri/4)))&2

')%)% Dis/ussion for /olor fastness to 5ash444444444444)4))4&2

')& *esult of /olor fastness to perspiration of /otton fa1ri/4444444444&6

')&)# >raphi/al representation of perspiration fastness properties of /otton

fa1ri/444444444444444444444444444)))44&6$&"

')&)% Dis/ussion for 8olor fastness to 5ater444444444444)44)&"

')' 9inal *esult44444444444444444444444)444))&"

%ha*ter! + ,1

1. %onclusion0000000000000000000000000..007-

%ha*ter! + ,5

5. (eference00000000000000000000000000.0. 72

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List of &i$ure

9igure

:um1er

9igure name Page

:um1er

!# S/hemati/ diagram of /otton ?a@ .ayard stru/ture

?1@ The tu1ular orientation of the se/ondary stru/ture)

##

!% >rey s/ale &%

List of Table

Ta1le

:um1er

Ta1le :ame Page :um1er

!% *a5 /otton /omponents ##

!& .ength Uniformity #&

!' 9i1er Strength #&

!( Mi/ronaire #'

!7 *a5 /otton /omponents %'

List of 8ra*h

>raph

:um1er

>raph :ame Page

:um1er!# Pro/ess 8urve %"

!% Pro/ess 8urve &!

!& >raphi/al representation of 5ash fastness properties of

/otton fa1ri/

&7

!' >raphi/al representation of 5ater fastness properties of

/otton fa1ri/

&2

!( >raphi/al representation of perspiration fastness

properties ?A/id@ of /otton fa1ri/

&6

!7 >raphi/al representation of perspiration fastness

properties ?Al=ali@ of /otton fa1ri/

&"

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Declaration

0e attest that this report is totally my o5n 5or=, ex/ept 5here 5e have given fullydo/umented referen/es to the 5or= of others and that the materials /ontained in this

report have not previously 1een su1mitted for assessment in any formal /ourse ofstudy) If 5e do anything, 5hi/h is going to 1rea/h the first de/laration, theexaminersupervisor has the right to /an/el my report at any point of time)

4444444Shirajum Monira!"#$%&$#'!(

44444444))Md) *ashedul +aue!"#$%&$#'#&

44444M)-) +asan!"#$%&$#''#

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c9no'led$ement

At 9irst 5e express all of our gratitude to supreme of Allah for 1lessings us, approval,prote/tion, mental po5er and 5isdom in all aspe/ts of our life) The applauses to Allah

to /omplete this proje/t 5or=) This 5or= has 1een /arried out at the Dyeing.a1oratory, Department of Textile Engineering, and Daffodil International University)During our thesis 5or=, many individuals have unselfishly /ontri1uted their time,support to ma=e this proje/t possi1le) 0e 5ould li=e to extend our sin/ere gratitude tothose 5ho have provided guidan/e in every step along the 5ay)

0e are deeply inde1ted to our supervisor Sumon Mazumder Assistant Professor,Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University, 5hose help,suggestions and en/ouragement helped us in all the time of resear/h for and 5ritingof this thesis) +is s/ientifi/ /uriosity, en/ouragement and guidan/e throughout this5or= have 1een ne/essary for this thesis)

It is a great pleasure in expressing our profound gratefulness and sin/ere gratitude toour respe/ted tea/her: Prof. Dr. Mahbubul ;aratefulness for our familyBs support, en/ouragement and understanding/annot 1e expressed in 5ords)

bstract

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Aim of this proje/t is to evaluate the effe/t of time, a1sor1en/y of dyed materialrefle/tan/e ?C@ value of different /ellulose fa1ri/s 1y dyeing of #!!C rea/tive dye)0e have /otton =nit and 5oven fa1ri/s for dyeing) These 5ill spe/ifi/ally address thesu1je/t of dyeing at single stage and /onsideration to the sele/tion of dyeing agent) It

is to 1e hoped that 1y the end of theis paper the reader 5ill have a 1etter idea a1outthe time, 5hat are the importan/e of time in a dye 1ath and 5hi/h time is 1etter and5idely used in the dyeing operation) 8omments are made, to sho5 relation 1et5eentheoreti/al /on/ept and pra/ti/al data) y doing this proje/t our idea a1out effe/t oftimes on dyeing of different /otton fa1ri/s 5ith rea/tive dye is /lear 1y the help ofAllah and our supervisor) This performan/e must appli/a1le in our pra/ti/al life)

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Aim of the Proje/t

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8ha ter !#

%ha*ter+-! im of the Project


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The main ;1je/t of the proje/t is to o1serve the effe/ts of time of different

/otton fa1ri/s 5ith rea/tive dyeing)

To =no5 a1out the spe/ifi/ation of different /otton fa1ri/s)

To =no5 the effe/ts of s/ouring, 1lea/hing, and mer/eriing effe/ts of

different /otton fa1ri/s)

To o1serve ho5 fa1ri/ properties are /hanged 5ith the rea/tive dyeing)

To analye the various fa1ri/ properties 1y the la1oratory test)

To learn ho5 to do a proje/t 5or= 3 ma=e report)

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Introdu/tion

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8ha ter !%

8hapter$% Introdu/tion


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*ea/tive dyes are extensively used in dyeing /ellulose made =nit and 5oven fa1ri/s)ut the effe/t of stru/ture of fa1ri/s varies due to the /olorfastness properties) Thereare num1er of 5oven and =nit stru/ture and their derivatives 1ut 5e used single

jersey, interlo/= for =nit and plain, t5ill for 5oven fa1ri/) 0e also used rea/tive lue

** for 1oth /otton fa1ri/s) The dye 5as used #C) Spe/ially 5e used rea/tive dyes forits multidimensional properties that are des/ri1ed later in this report) ;n the otherhand /ellulose fi1ers are the highest used natural fi1ers in the 5orld in/ludingangladesh)y /onsidering the pro/ess, method, desired shade formation 5e have used the/ellulose fi1ers and rea/tive dyes) The 5ide des/riptions are given in this proje/t repotlater) In this proje/t 5e are supposed to find out the FThe Effe/t ;f Times on different8otton fa1ri/s Dyeing 5ith rea/tive dyeG

2.- >hy this subject been chosen!

This is very /ommon as=ing of te/hni/al persons as 5ell as /ommon people 5hat isthe effe/t of time on /otton fa1ri/s 5ith rea/tive dye) ut 5e did not =no5 the ans5er

1efore /ompleting this proje/t, Fuestion is very /ommon 1ut ans5er is un=no5nGfrom this /on/ept Assistant Professor Sumon Maumder sele/ted this topi/ as our

proje/t su1je/t) ThatHs 5hy it has 1een ex/ellent, tremendous su1je/t and 5e 1e/omeso mu/h interested to /omplete this proje/t)

2.2 >hy cotton fibers ? reactive dyes been used!8otton today is the most used textile fi1er in the 5orld) It is made of /ellulose) Its/urrent mar=et share is (7 per/ent for all fi1ers used for apparel and home

furnishings) Another /ontri1ution is attri1uted to non5oven textiles and personal /areitems) It is generally re/ognied that most /onsumers prefer /otton personal /areitems to those /ontaining syntheti/ fi1ers) 0orld textile fi1er /onsumption in #""65as approximately '( million tons);f this total, /otton represented approximately %!million tons) The earliest eviden/e of using /otton is from India and the date assignedto this fa1ri/ is &!!! )8

2.4 >hy time is necessary for dyein$ cotton fabric 'ith reactive dye!The time reuired for dyeing 5ith rea/tive dye depends on time, temperature and/hemi/al used for dyeing) In general time is proportional to the temperature of thedyeing)

2.7 #ffect of time for dyein$ cotton fabric 'ith reactive dye! Dye stuff is added in t5o portions)

Salt added in t5o lots)

Dyeing is /ontinued for &! to "! min)

The depth of shade and the rea/tivity of the dye de/ide the time of dyeing)

9or deeper shades, longer time is reuired)

+igher time means less temperature is needed for dyeing, as does higher/on/entration of dyestuff) If the time is in/reased then the dye is exhaust 1y the fi1erup to a /ertain point and vi/e versa)2.1 >hat is or$anic cotton and ho' is it $ro'n



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;rgani/ /otton is /otton that has 1een gro5n for at least three years 5ithout /hemi/alpesti/ides, defoliants, or fertiliers) :atural fertiliers and fertiliing te/hniues areused instead, in/luding /ompost, manure, naturally derived mineral and plantfertiliers, and /rop rotation) Third$party /ertifi/ation organiations verify that organi/

produ/ers employ only approved natural methods and materials in organi/ produ/tion

2.5 >hy does the industry 'ant to use or$anic cotton

;rgani/ally gro5n /otton is seen as environmentally friendly, as no syntheti/fertiliers, pesti/ides and her1i/ides are used in the gro5ing of the /otton)Environmental ste5ardship is in/reasingly in the pu1li/ eye and the use of organi//otton has 1e/ome very trendy among /onsumers) Manufa/turers and retailers areresponding to their demand for more natural produ/ts)

2.3 %haracteristics of cotton!

8otton, as a natural /ellulosi/ fi1er, has a lot of /hara/teristi/s, su/h as

8omforta1le Soft

>ood a1sor1en/y

8olor retention

Prints 5ell

Ma/hine$5asha1le

Dry$/leana1le

>ood strength

Drapes 5ell

Easy to handle and se5

2.6 &iber Pro*erties of accordin$ to %otton!

Len$th ? Uniformity U**er ;alf Len$th

elo5 !)"" Short

!)""$#)#! Medium

#)##$#)%7 .ong

A1ove #)%7 Extra .ong



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Uniformity Inde@

elo5 22 Jery .o5

22$2" .o5

6!$6% .o5

6&$6( +igh

A1ove 6( Jery +igh

&iber fineness

9ineness ?millitex@ Des/ription

elo5 #&( Jery 9ine

#&($#2( 9ine

#2($%!! Average

%!!$%&! 8oarse

A1ove %&! Jery 8oarse

&iber Stren$thA-/6 inch $au$e stren$th in $rams/te@B

%! 3 elo5 Jery 0ea=

%#$%( 0ea=

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%7$%" ase

&!$&% Strong

&% and A1ove Jery strong

9i1er Elongation ?C@

elo5 ()! Jery .o5

()!$()6 .o5

()"$7)2 Average

7)6$2)7 +igh

A1ove 2)7 Jery +igh

9i1er Maturity

Maturity *atio Des/ription

elo5 !)2 Un/ommon

!)2$!)6 Immature

!)6K#)! Mature

A1ove #)! Jery mature

2.C &iber structure and formation!

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The 1otani/al name of Ameri/an Upland /otton is Gossypium Hirsutumand has 1eendeveloped from /ottons of 8entral Ameri/a) Upland varieties represent approximately"2C of U)S) produ/tion )

Ea/h /otton fi1er is /omposed of /on/entri/ layers) The /uti/le layer on the fi1er itselfis separa1le from the fi1er and /onsists of 5ax and pe/tin materials) The primary 5all,the most peripheral layer of the fi1er, is /omposed of /ellulosi/ /rystalline fi1rils) These/ondary 5all of the fi1er /onsists of three distin/t layers) All three layers of the

se/ondary 5all in/lude /losely pa/=ed parallel fi1rils 5ith spiral 5inding of %($&( oand represent the majority of /ellulose 5ithin the fi1er) The innermost part of /ottonfi1er$ the lumen$ is /omposed of the remains of the /ell /ontents) efore 1oll opening,the lumen is filled 5ith liuid /ontaining the /ell nu/leus and protoplasm) The t5istsand /onvolutions of the dried fi1er are due to the removal of this liuid) The /rossse/tion of the fi1er is 1ean$shaped, s5elling almost round 5hen moisture a1sorptionta=es pla/e)

The overall /ontents are 1ro=en do5n into the follo5ing /omponents)

2.-, (a' cotton com*onents!

6!$"!C 8ellulose

7$6C 0ater

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!)( $ #C 0axes and fats

! $ #)(C Proteins

' $ 7C +emi/elluloses and pe/tinHs

# $ #)6C Ash

During s/ouring ?treatment of the fi1er 5ith /austi/ soda@, natural 5axes and fats in

the fi1er are saponified and pe/tinHs and other non$/ellulose materials are released, sothat the impurities /an 1e removed 1y just rinsing a5ay) After s/ouring, a 1lea/hingsolution ?/onsisting of a sta1ilied oxidiing agent@ intera/ts 5ith the fi1er and thenatural /olor is removed) lea/hing ta=es pla/e at elevated temperature for a fixed

period of time) Mer/eriation is another pro/ess of improving sorption properties of/otton) 8otton fi1er is immersed into #6$ %(C solution of sodium hydroxide oftenunder tension ) The fi1er o1tains 1etter luster and sorption during mer/eriation)

After s/ouring and 1lea/hing, the fi1er is ""C /ellulose) 8ellulose is a polymer/onsisting of anhydroglu/ose units /onne/ted 5ith #,' oxygen 1ridges in the 1eta

position) The hydroxyl groups on the /ellulose units ena1le hydrogen 1onding

1et5een t5o adja/ent polymer /hains) The degree of polymeriation of /otton is",!!!$#(,!!! ) 8ellulose sho5s approximately 77C /rystalline, 5hi/h /an 1edetermined 1y L$ray diffra/tion, infrared spe/tros/opy and density methods)

Ea/h /rystal unit /onsists of five /hains of anhydroglu/ose units, parallel to the fi1rilaxis) ;ne /hain is lo/ated at ea/h of the /orners of the /ell and one runs through the/enter of the /ell) The dimensions of the /ell are a !)6&(nm, 1 #)!& nm and / !)2" nm) The angle 1et5een a1 and 8 planes is 6'N for normal /ellulose, i)e),8ellulose)

2.-- (e*eat unit of cellulose!

The /urrent /onsensus regarding /ellulose /rystallinity ?L$ray diffra/tion@ is thatfi1ers are essentially #!!C /rystalline and that very small /rystalline units imperfe/tly

pa/=ed together /ause the o1served disorder)

The density method used to determine /ellulose /rystallinity is 1ased on the densitygradient /olumn, 5here t5o solvents of different densities are partially mixed) Degreeof 8rystallinity is, then, determined from the density of the sample, 5hile densities of/rystalline and amorphous /ellulose forms are =no5n ?#)(!( and #)((7 respe/tively@);rientation of untreated /otton fi1er is poor 1e/ause the /rystallites are /ontained inthe mi/ro fi1rils of the se/ondary 5all, oriented in the steep spiral ?%($&! o@ to the fi1er

axis)

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2.-2 Physical *ro*erties of cotton!

2.-2.- &iber len$th

9i1er length is des/ri1ed O2 as the average length of the longer one$half of the fi1ers?upper half mean length@ This measure is ta=en 1y s/anning a 1eard of parallelfi1ers through a sensing region) The 1eard is formed from the fi1ers ta=en from thesample, /lasped in a holding /lamp and /om1ed to align the fi1ers) Typi/al lengths of

Upland /ottons might range from !)2" to #)&7in)

8ottons /ome from the /otton plantQ the longer strand types su/h as Pima or SeaIsland produ/e the finest types of /otton fa1ri/s )

2.-2.2 Len$th uniformity

.ength uniformity or uniformity ratio is determined as a ratio 1et5een the meanlength and the upper half mean length of the fi1ers and is expressed as a

per/entageO2) Typi/al /omparisons are illustrated 1elo5)

Len$th uniformity Uniformity inde@ ")

Jery +igh R6(

+igh 6&$6(

Intermediate 6!$6%

.o5 22$2"

Jery .o5 22

.o5 uniformity index sho5s that there might 1e a high /ontent of short fi1ers, 5hi/hlo5ers the uality of the future textile produ/t)

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2.-2.4 &iber stren$th

9i1er strength is measured in grams per denier) It is determined as the for/e ne/essaryto 1rea= the 1eard of fi1ers, /lamped in t5o sets of ja5s, ?#6 in/h apart@ O2) Typi/altensile levels are illustrated) The 1rea=ing strength of /otton is a1out &)!')" gdenier,

and the 1rea=ing elongation is a1out 6#!C) O%!

De$ree of stren$th &iber stren$th "$/te@)

Jery Strong R

Strong %"$&!

Average %7$%6

Intermediate %'$%(

0ea= %&

2.-2.7 Micronaire

Mi/ronaire measurements refle/t fi1er fineness and maturity) A /onstant mass ?%)&'grams@ of /otton fi1ers is /ompressed into a spa/e of =no5n volume and air

permea1ility measurements of this /ompressed sample are ta=en) These, 5hen/onverted to appropriate num1er, denote Mi/ronaire values)

%otton (an$e Micronaire

Premium &)2$')%

ase *ange ')&$')"

Dis/ount *ange R()!

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2.-2.1 %olor

The /olor of /otton samples is determined from t5o parameters degree of refle/tan/e?*d@ and yello5ness ?1@) Degree of refle/tan/e sho5s the 1rightness of the sampleand yello5ness depi/ts the degree of /otton pigmentation) A defined area lo/ated in a

:i/=erson$+unter /otton /olorimeter diagram represents ea/h /olor /ode) The /olor ofthe fi1ers is affe/ted 1y /limati/ /onditions, impa/t of inse/ts and fungi, type of soil,storage /onditions et/) There is five re/ognied groups of /olor 5hite, gray, spotted,tinged, and yello5 stained) As the /olor of /otton deteriorates, the pro/ess a1ility ofthe fi1ers de/reases)

0or= at the University of Tennessee has led to /olor measurement using 1oth aspe/trometer 8IE$1ased average /olor measurement and a /olor uniformitymeasurement using image analysis to improve the a//ura/y and provide additionalmeasurement for /olor grading O#") .ater the investigators developed t5o /olorgrading systems using expert system and neural net5or=s)

2.-2.5 Trash

A trash measurement des/ri1es the amount of non$lint materials ?su/h as parts of/otton plant@ in the fi1er) Trash /ontent is assessed from s/anning the /otton samplesurfa/e 5ith a video /amera and /al/ulating the per/entage of the surfa/e areao//upied 1y trash parti/les) The values of trash /ontent should 1e 5ithin the rangefrom ! to #)7C) Trash /ontent is highly /orrelated to leaf grade of the sample)

2.-2.3 leaf $rade

.eaf grade is provided visually as the amount of /otton plant parti/les 5ithin thesample) There are seven leaf grades ?V#$V2@ and one 1elo5 grade ?V6@)

2.-2.6 *re*aration

Preparation is the /lasserBs interpretation of fi1er pro/ess a1ility in terms of degree ofroughness or smoothness of ginned /otton)

2.-2.C #@traneous Matter

Extraneous matter is all the material in the sample other than fi1er and leaf) The/lasser either as FlightG or FheavyG determines the degree of extraneous matter)

2.-2.-, Ee*s!

A nep is a small tangled fi1er =not often /aused 1y pro/essing) :eps /an 1e measured1y the A9IS nep tester and reported as the total num1er of neps per !)( grams of thefi1er and average sie in millimeters) :ep formation refle/ts the me/hani/al

pro/essing stage, espe/ially from the point of vie5 of the uality and /ondition of thema/hinery used)

2.4 %hemical *ro*erties of cotton!

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8otton s5ells in a high humidity environment, in 5ater and in /on/entrated solutionsof /ertain a/ids, salts and 1ases) The s5elling effe/t is usually attri1uted to thesorption of highly hydrated ions) The moisture regain for /otton is a1out 2)#6)(Cand the moisture a1sorption is 26C)

8otton is atta/=ed 1y hot dilute or /old /on/entrated a/id solutions) A/id hydrolysis of/ellulose produ/es hydro$/elluloses) 8old 5ea= a/ids do not affe/t it) The fi1ers sho5ex/ellent resistan/e to al=alis) There are a fe5 other solvents that 5ill dissolve /otton/ompletely) ;ne of them is a /opper /omplex of /upramonium hydroxide and/upriethylene diamine ?S/h5eiterBs reagent)

8otton degradation is usually attri1uted to oxidation, hydrolysis or 1oth) ;xidation of/ellulose /an lead to t5o types of so$/alled oxy$/ellulose O#%, depending on theenvironment, in 5hi/h the oxidation ta=es pla/e %ellulose is an organi/ /ompound5ith the formula?87+#!;(@n, a polysa//haride/onsisting of a linear /hain of severalhundred to over ten thousand W?#X'@ lin=ed D$glu/oseunits)

8ellulose, a linear polymer of D$glu/oseunits ?t5o are sho5n@ lin=ed 1y W ?#X'@$gly/osidi/ 1onds

Three$dimensional stru/ture of /ellulose) O#?la/=/ar1onQ redoxygenQ5hitehydrogen)@

2.-4.- Insert formula or e


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8otton /lassifi/ation is used to determine the uality of the /otton fi1er in terms ofgrade, length and Mi/ronaire /lassifi/ation spe/ifi/ally identifies the /hara/teristi/s offi1er length, length uniformity, strength, Mi/ronaire, /olor, preparation, leaf andextraneous matter) In the past, these ualities 5ere /lassified just 1y hand$and$eye ofan experien/ed /lasser) Sin/e #""#, all /lassifi/ation has 1een /arried out 5ith a set of

up$to$date instruments, /alled +JI?+igh Jolume Instrumentation@ /lassifi/ation O#)+o5ever, measuring te/hniues of other ualities of /otton fi1er, su/h as fi1ermaturity and short fi1er /ontent, are also 1eing developed)

2.-5 %otton in non+'ovenFs

8otton is the most important apparel fi1er throughout the 5orld) It is a fi1er that 5asused fairly extensively during the early, developmental period of the :on5ovens

1usiness primarily 1e/ause the emerging dry$laid produ/ers /ame from the textileindustry and had an intimate =no5ledge of /otton and its pro/essing /hara/teristi/s )It5as in the early part of %!th 8entury that a fe5 /otton mills in the US 5anted to find

5ays to upgrade the 5aste /otton fi1ers into salea1le produ/ts) The first method used5as 1onding the short /otton fi1ers ?fi1er 5aste@ 5ith latex and resin) These produ/ts5ere used mainly as industrial 5ipes) After 0orld 0ar II, produ/ts li=e draperies,ta1le/loths, nap=ins and 5iping to5els 5ere developed) It 5as realied that 5ovenfa1ri/s have mu/h 1etter properties than :on5ovensQ so, the approa/h 5as to /laimthe mar=et 5here superior ualities of 5oven or =nit fa1ri/s 5ere not essential 1ut5here ualities 1etter than those of paper 5ere needed) As the uality reuirementsfor non5oven fa1ri/s in/reased and parti/ularly as the need for 5hite, /lean fa1ri/emergedQ the use of ra5 /otton 1e/ame una//epta1le and 5as a1andoned 1y theindustry ex/ept for a fe5 isolated produ/t areas) 0ithin the last de/ade, 1lea/hed/otton fi1er suita1le for pro/essing on /onventional non5oven euipment has 1e/ome

availa1le and has su1stantially in/reased interest in this fi1er) This is parti/ularly truein medi/al and health/are appli/ations, 5iping and 5iper mar=ets, and some apparelmar=ets) The ra5 /otton /onsists of a1out "7C /ellulose and 'C of 5axes, pe/tin, andother pertina/ious and plant material) These minor /onstituents that must 1e removedin the s/ouring and 1lea/hing pro/ess to give the soft, /lean, 5hite, a1sor1ent fi1erthat is satisfa/tory for the non5ovens industry after the appli/ation of an appropriatefinishing oil) The fi1er length of /otton is important, parti/ularly as to its pro/essa1ility) .onger staple /otton ?!)2( in) to #)%( in)@ is satisfa/tory for non5oven

produ/tion) The fi1er has ex/ellent a1sor1en/y and feels /omforta1le against the s=in)It has fairly good strength 1oth 5et and dry, and has moderate dimensional sta1ilityand elasti/ re/overy) ut the resilien/e of /otton is relatively lo5, unless it is /ross$lin=ed 1y a /hemi/al treatment) In non5oven appli/ations, the purity and a1sor1en/yof 1lea/hed /otton are utilied in gro5ing medi/al and health/are appli/ations) Thespun la/e pro/ess usually produ/es su/h fa1ri/s) 9or similar reasons, /otton spun la/efa1ri/s are 5ell a//epted in personal and related 5ipes, espe/ially in


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A1out &!C of 5orld /otton ma/hines harvest produ/tion) Australia, Israel and USAare the only /ountries 5here all /ottons are pi/=ed 1y ma/hines) 9ifteen per/ent of5orld /otton produ/tion is ginned on roller gins and almost all rest of /otton is sa5ginned in most /ountries O#')8otton fi1ers in non$5ovens are generally used in their

1lea/hed form) A lot of resear/h and development has ta=en pla/e for the effi/ient

produ/tion of 1lea/hed fi1ers) The -ier 1lea/hing pro/ess produ/es most of the1lea/hed /otton fi1ers) Sin/e /otton of lesser grades is useful for non$5ovens, a/onventional /leaning system does not suffi/e) This might in/lude a /oarse 5ire/arding, /alled 8otton Master 8leaners, for /leaning the /otton)

The /onventional 1lea/hing method for /ottons meant for non$5ovens is a " steppro/ess are

a@ 9i1er opening and /leaning1@ Al=ali s/ouring appli/ation/@ Al=ali rea/tion stage

d@ *insinge@ lea/h appli/ationf@ lea/h rea/tion stageg@ *insingh@ 9inish appli/ationi@ Drying

A /ontinuous textile pro/essing system and method have 1een dis/losed re/ently forprodu/ing a non5oven 5e1 /ontaining 1lea/hed /otton fi1ers in a single line system5hi/h in/ludes a supply of fi1ers su/h as a 1ale opening devi/e, The final non5oven5e1 /onsisting of 1lea/hed /otton fi1ers may 1e made into highly purified and

a1sor1ent 5ipes, pads, and other arti/les for medi/al, industrial, or domesti/ use)

2.-6 %ost of *roducin$ cotton

The international /otton advisory /ommittee ?I8A8@ underta=es a survey of the /ostof the produ/tion of /otton every three years 1ased on the data from /ountries) O#7Several fa/tors are /onsidered, su/h as land rent, fertiliers, inse/t /ontrol, irrigation,harvesting and ginning) The /ost of seed /otton is more than Z(!! in USA to produ/eone he/tare of seed /otton) The net /ost of produ/ing lint from one he/tare ?the valueof seed and land rent 5ere ex/luded from the total /ost@ is highest in Australia?USZ#,!(7@ follo5ed 1y the USA ?USZ66"@, Pa=istan ?USZ6#'@, [im1a15e

?USZ'%7@ and 8hina ?USZ'#7@) It is most expensive to produ/e a =ilogram of lint inthe USA ?USZ#)%!@, Australia ?USZ!)2(@ and /hina ?USZ!)'6@

2.-C (e*eat unit of cellulose

The /urrent /onsensus regarding /ellulose /rystallinity ?L$ray diffra/tion@ is thatfi1ers are essentially #!!C /rystalline and that very small /rystalline units imperfe/tly

pa/=ed together /ause the o1served disorder) The density method used to determine/ellulose /rystallinity is 1ased on the density gradient /olumn, 5here t5o solvents ofdifferent densities are partially mixed) Degree of 8rystallinity is, then, determinedfrom the density of the sample, 5hile densities of /rystalline and amorphous /elluloseforms are =no5n ?#)(!( and #)((7 respe/tively@) ;rientation of untreated /otton fi1er

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is poor 1e/ause the /rystallites are /ontained in the mi/ro fi1rils of the se/ondary5all, oriented in the steep spiral ?%($&!o@ to the fi1er axis)

2.2, #nd uses of cotton

Apparel $ 0ide range of 5earing apparel 1louses, shirts, dresses,

/hildrens5ear, a/tive 5ear, separates, s5im5ear, suits, ja/=ets, s=irts, pants,s5eaters, hosiery, ne/=5ear)

+ome 9ashion $ /urtains, draperies, 1edspreads, /omforters, thro5s, sheets, to5els,ta1le /loths, ta1le mats, nap=ins

ThatHs 5hy /ellulose fi1ers have 1een used)

2.22 (eactive dye!

(eactive dyeis only /lass of dyes 5hi/h ma=es /o$valent 1ond 5ith the fi1er and1e/omes a part of it) This /an 1e des/ri1ed as

*ea/tive dyes 9i1er *ea/tive dye$9i1er ?8o$valent 1onding@

If the general stru/ture of a rea/tive dye is F*$$LG then,

*$$L 9i1er *$$L$9i1er ?Dyed fi1er@

+ere,

* 8hromophore >roup ?Ao, Anthauinone, Phthalo/yanine, Metal /omplex group@

ridging >roup ? Imino, Ethyl 3 Methyl, ;xide, Sulphide group@

L *ea/tive >roup ?$8l, $r, $S+, $;8+, et/@

Examples of rea/tive dyes

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2.24 %lassification of (eactive Dyes

y depending on /hemi/al /onstitution rea/tive dyes /an 1e /lassified as

8hlorotriaine Dyes ?M8T@

Jinyl Sulphone Dyes ?JS@

+etero/y/li/ +elogen 8ontaining Dyes ?++8@

Mixed Dyes ?M8T$JS@

y depending on appli/ation methods of temperature, rea/tive dyes /an 1e /lassifiedas:

I.Cold brand reactive dyesThis type of rea/tive dyes is applied in very lo5temperature) Temperature lies 1et5een %( $(! degree 8elsius) They are highlyrea/tive 5ith fi1er on this temperature)

II.Medium brand reactive dyesThis type of dyes is applied in a medium temperaturerange is '! \ 7! degree 8elsius) Their rea/tivity is medium 5ith fi1er)

III.Low brand reactive dyes:This type of dyes has very lo5 rea/tivity properties 5ithfi1er 5ith /omparison 5ith medium and high 1rand rea/tive dyes) Dyeing is /arriedout on 7! $"! degree 8elsius)

2.27 Pro*erties of reactive dyes

*ea/tive dye is anioni/ in nature)

*ea/tive dye is a 5ater solu1le dye)

They have 1etter 5ash and light fastness properties)

They have 1etter su1stantivity)

They form strong /o$valent 1ond 5ith the /ellulosi/ fi1er)

Al=aline /ondition is must reuired for dyeing)

Ele/trolyte is must for exhaustion of dyes in the fi1er)

A /ertain amount of dyes are hydrolyed during appli/ation)

0ide range of /olor /an 1e produ/ed 5ith rea/tive dyes)

8omparatively /heap in pri/e)

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Influencin$ factors!

Dyeing of /ellulosi/ fi1er 5ith rea/tive dyes is influen/ed 1y some fa/tor) 9ollo5ingfa/tors should /onsider during dyeing operation)

*;!Reactive dyeing is done in an alkaline conditon for this reason pH of the

dyeing bath should control. pH should be between 11.5 -11.

Tem*erature!emperature should fi! depending on the brand of reactive

dyes.

%oncentration of electrolyte!"oncentration of electrolyte depends on the type of

shade.

Time!#yeing time should be between $% & '% minutes.

Li


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The general formula of rea/tive dyes

2.21 >hy (eactive Dyes are called fiber (eactive Dye

Definition ofG fi1er rea/tive dyeG A fi1er rea/tive dye is a /oloured /ompound5hi/h has a suita1le group /apa1le of forming a /ovalent 1ond 1et5een a /ar1on atomof the dye ion or mole/ule and an oxygen, nitrogen, or sulphur atom of a hydroxy, anamino or a mer/apto groupG)

*ea/tive dye is a /lass of highly /olored organi/ su1stan/es, primarily utilied fortinting textiles that atta/h themselves to their su1strates 1y a /hemi/al rea/tion thatforms a /ovalent 1ond 1et5een the mole/ule of dye and that of the fi1re) The dyestuffthus 1e/omes a part of the fi1re and is mu/h less li=ely to 1e removed 1y 5ashingthan are dyestuffs that adhere 1y adsorption)

The very first fi1re$rea/tive dyes 5ere designed for /ellulose fi1res, and are still usedmostly in this 5ay) There are also /ommer/ially availa1le fi1re$rea/tive dyes for

protein and polyamide fi1res) In theory, fi1re$rea/tive dyes have 1een developed forother fi1res, 1ut these are not yet pra/ti/al /ommer/ially) The dyes /ontain a rea/tivegroup that, 5hen applied to a fi1re in a 5ea=ly al=aline dye 1ath, form a /hemi/al

1ond 5ith the fi1er) *ea/tive dyes /an also 1e used to dye 5ool and nylon, in the

latter /ase they are applied under 5ea=ly a/idi/ /onditions)

The most important /hara/teristi/ of rea/tive dyes is the formation of /ovalent 1onds5ith the su1strate to 1e /olored, i)e) the dye forms a /hemi/al 1ond 5ith /ellulose,5hi/h is the main /omponent of /otton fi1ers

9i1er rea/tive dye is the most permanent of all dye types) Unli=e other dyes, ita/tually forms a /ovalent 1ond 5ith the /ellulose or protein mole/ule) ;n/e the 1ondis formed, 5hat you have is one mole/ule, as the dye mole/ule has 1e/ome an a/tual

part of the /ellulose fi1er mole/ule) :o 5onder you /an safely 5ash a garment thathas 1een dyed in 1right fi1er rea/tive /olors 5ith 5hite /lothing, a hundred times,5ithout endangering the 5hites in the least $ even if it is all different 1right /olors, or

even solid 1la/=] In /ontrast to all other dyes the rea/tive dyes 1ind /hemi/ally to thetextile fi1ers, signifi/antly improving the produ/tBs /olor sta1ility and 5ash a1ility)Thus rea/tive dying of /otton is /urrently the most 5idespread textile dying pro/ess inthe 5orld)

(eactivity of (eactive Dyes and its **lication

All 1ut one of the rea/tive dyes are 1uilt on a similar stru/ture ?*emaol Dye from+oe/hst is the ex/eption@) This stru/ture /onsists of ?#@ a /hromospheres ?the /olor$

1earing group@, ?%@ a rea/tive group ?usually a hetero/y/li/ /ar1on$nitrogen ringsystem@, and ?&@ a leaving group 5hi/h is part of the /ar1on$nitrogen group, 5hi/h

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is generally a halogen /ompound ?/hlorine family@)This leaving group splits offduring the rea/tion 5ith the fi1er and is the point at 5hi/h the 1ond is formed) Thelevel of rea/tivity of dyestuff is mainly dependent on the rea/tive group and on theleaving groupIn the earlier fi1er rea/tive dyes ?su/h as the Pro/ions and early8i1a/rons@ the leaving groups 5ere al5ays /hlorine, 1ut later it 5as found that

other groups /ould impart even higher rea/tivity) These groups /ould 1e atta/hed tothe dye mole/ules and affe/t su/h things as fixation rates, solu1ility, su1stantively ?theattra/tion of the dye for the fi1er@, and 1uild$up ?the depth of /olor possi1le@)

These early fi1er rea/tive dyes 1ased on /hlorine /hemistry 5ere =no5n as/holortriainyl dyes) The rea/tive group 5as a triainyl ring ?a six$sided ring 5iththree nitrogenHs@Q if it had one /hlorine 1uilt into it the dye 5as /alled amono/hlorotriainyl dye ?9ig #@Q if it had t5o /hlorines the dye 5as more rea/tive and/alled a di/hlorotriainyl dye) ?9ig) %@

In 9ig) # is a typi/al mono/hlorotriainyl dye and note that the /hemi/al stru/ture, and

thus the dye itself, is identi/al for this Pro/ion + S/arlet +$* and 8i1a/ron Edye S/arlet *P) :ot all the dyes in the t5o ranges are identi/al, 1ut there are severaloverlaps)

9ig) # $ a mono/hlorotriainyl dye mole/ule

The Pro/ion + series and 8i1a/ron E series, 1oth introdu/ed in #"(2, 5eremono/hlorotriainyl dyes) These are less rea/tive than the Pro/ion ML series andreuire higher temperatures, more al=ali, and longer fixation times) They have ahigher fixation level so less dye is lost, 1ut they /annot 1e used at the lo5

temperatures, 5hi/h ma=e the /old 5ater types more attra/tive to textile and fi1erartists)

I8IBs first Pro/ion ML dyes 5ere di/hlorotriainyl dyes) They are the most highlyrea/tive 1e/ause of their t5o /hlorine groups)

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9ig %) $ a typi/al di/hlorotrianyl dye

Some typi/al examples of rea/tive systems for /ellulose and 5ool or polyamide fi1resare reported in the follo5ing ta1les)

2.25.- Pro*erties of reactive dyes

0ater solu1le dye

Ma=es /ovalent 1ond 5ith fi1ers

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nchor system Denomination %ommercial name

Di/hloro$s$triaine ?/old dyer@ Pro/ion ML

Amino$fluoro$s$triaine ?5armdyer@

8i1a/ron 9

Tri/hloro$pyrimidine ?hot dyer@ 8i1a/ron T$E

Dimaren L, [

$S;%$8+%$8+%$;$S;&:a

eta$sulphate$ethyl$sulphone ?5armdyer@

*emaol


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Dyeing is /arried out in al=aline /ondition ?Ph##)(@

+uge ele/trolyte is ne/essary

9astness properties ?5ash, ru11ing, light, perspiration, et/@ are 1etter than

other dyes Easy apply /a1le to /ellulose and other fi1ers

Jery popular and 5idely used in angladesh as 5ell as hole over the 5orld)

8omparatively /heap

All =inds of shade /an 1e produ/ed

Dyeing methods are easy)

.o5 dyeing temperature ?7! !$#!! !/@

2.25.2 **lication *ro*erties of reactive dye

.eveling Jery good

Exhaustion >ood

Migration Extremely good

A/id fastness Dye fi1ers are hydrolyed

Al=ali fastness 9air to good)index, &$(

.ight fastness Jery good)index, ($7

8holorinefastness .imited

0ash fastness J)good, index, '$(

Perspiration fastness >ood index, '$(

*ate of dyeing Jery rapid

Dyeing pro/ess Exhaust

After treatment Soaping and ringing to remove hydrolyed dyestuff

ThatHs 5hy 5e have used rea/tive dyes)

In our study 5e have used rea/tive *ED, ^E..;0 and .UE dyes)

2.25.7 %hemical Structure of (eactive Glue

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*ea/tive lue #"

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Materials 3 Methods Materials

Methods

4.-MaterialsIn our proje/t 5or=, 5e have ta=en /ellulosi/ fa1ri/ ?=nit 3 5oven@ for o1serving theeffe/t of Time) 0e have ta=en t5o pie/es of 5oven fa1ri/ ?plain 5eave 3T5ill

5eave@ and t5o pie/es of =nitted fa1ri/ ?single jersey 3 Interlo/=@ as our materials fora//omplishing our proje/t 5or=) The name of the sample and their /onstru/tion 3spe/ifi/ation are given in 1elo5

Plain 5eave)

T5ill 5eave

Single jersey

Interlo/=

4.-.- S*ecification of *lain 'eave!

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%ha*ter+7! Materials ? Method


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Sample type ## ?Plain 0eave@

Sample :ature #!!C /otton

Ends per in/h ?EPI@ #%!

Pi/=s per in/h ?PPI@ 7!

0arp /ount #(:e

0eft /ount #6:e

0arp t5ist %%

0eft t5ist &6

9a1ri/ >SM %(2

State of Sample >rey

4.-.2 S*ecifications of T'ill 'eave!

Sample type ?T5ill 0eave@

Sample :ature #!!C /otton

Ends per in/h ?EPI@ #&!

Pi/=s per in/h ?PPI@ 7!

0arp /ount #":e

0eft /ount #7:e

0arp t5ist #6

0eft t5ist %6

9a1ri/ >SM %76


4.-.4 S*ecification of Sin$le Hersey

Sample type Single


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8ourse per in/h ?8PI@ 7&

0ales per in/h?0PI@ &'

^arn /ount %6 :e

^arn t5ist &% ?TPI@

Stit/h .ength %)&(

9a1ri/ >SM #'"


4.-.7 S*ecification double Hersey

Sample type Dou1le


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") p+ ")($##)(

4.2.4%alculation!

Sample 5t) 6! mg

Material liuor ratio # %!

Total liuor ?6!

%!@ #7!! //

# L #7!!

Detergent reuired $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ #7! //

#!!! L #C

( L #7!!

8austi/ Soda reuired $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ #7! //

#!!! L (C

6 L #7!!

+ydrogen peroxide reuired $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ %(7 //

#!!! L (C

%)( L #7!!

Peroxide Sta1ilier reuired $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ '!! //

#!!! L #C

0ater reuired _#7!! $ ?#7! #7!! %(7 '!!@` 7%' //

4.2.4 Process %urve!

Process!

# Add 0ater)% Add :ao+)& P+8he/=)' Add Peroxide Sta1ilier)

( Samples)7 Add +%;%

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"6!/

# hr

Add +%;

# % & ' (

7!!/

:ormalTemperature

ath Drain

8ooling *insing +ot 5ash

?2!!/ L #!min@ 8old 5ash


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9ig Pro/ess 8urve of S/ouring 3 lea/hing Pro/ess)

4.2.7 >or9in$ Procedure!

#) 9irstly, %! gm of fa1ri/ from ea/h sample has 1een ta=en for s/ouring 3

1lea/hing)%) Prepare sto/= solution for all /hemi/al 5hi/h is ne/essary for s/ouring

1lea/hing)&) Set the 1ath at room temperature and add 5etting agent, :ao+ and /he/= P+)

?P+ ")($##)(@') After /he/=ing P+of the dye 1ath, appropriate amount of peroxide sta1ilier

and sample is added into the dye 1ath)() *aise the temperature up to 7!!/ and +%;%is added into the dye 1ath)7) *aise the temperature up to "6!/ and hold the temperature for # hr for proper

s/ouring and 1lea/hing a/tion)2) Then /ool and rinse for removing fi1er dust from the 1ath)6) After rinsing the temperature is raised up to 2!!/ for hot 5ash at #! min) After

/ompleting the a/tion the pro/ess is drained out)

4.2.1 Dyein$ (eci*e!

#) *ea/tive dye #C) ?#C sto/= solution@%) Salt '( gml) ?&!C sto/= solution@&) Soda ash #( gml) ?&!C sto/= solution@') .eveling agent !)( gml) ?#!C sto/= solution@() Temperature 7!!/)

7) M. #22) Material 0eight ' gm)6) Time '! minute

4.2.5 %alculation!

Sample 5t) ' mg

Material liuor ratio # 2

Total liuor ?'

2@ %6 //

' L #C

Dye reuired $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ' //

#C

'( L %6

Salt reuired $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ')% //

#!!! L &!C

#( L %6

Soda reuired $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ #)' //

#!!! L &!C

!)( L %6

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.evelling agent reuired $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ !)#' //

#!!! L #!C

0ater reuired _%6 $ ?' ')% #)' )#'@` #6)%7 //

4.2.3 Process %urve!

Process! # Add dye)% Add salt)& Add soda)' Add leveling agent)( Add 5ater)7 Add samples2 Ta=e four samples)6 Ta=e four samples)" Ta=e four samples)#! Ta=e four samples)

9ig Pro/ess 8urve for dyeing)

4.2.6 >or9in$ Procedure!

#) 9irstly, referen/e re/ipe 5as /olle/ted from our honora1le proje/t supervisor)%) Then ' gm of fa1ri/ from ea/h sample has 1een ta=en for dyeing)&) Prepare sto/= solution for all /hemi/al 5hi/h is ne/essary for dyeing)') Ta=e dye solution, salt, leveling agent, soda 5ith su1strate in the jar)() *aise the temperature up to 7!!/ and run for '! minute)7) After #! minute, ta=e four jars from the dyeing pro/ess and run for &! minute)2) After %! minute, ta=e four jars from the dyeing pro/ess and run for %! minute)6) After &! minute, ta=e four jars from the dyeing pro/ess and run for #! minute)") After '! minute, unload and 5ash in /old 5ater)

#!) +ot 5ash for #( minute at "!!

/ 5ith 5ashing agent)##) Then 5ash in /old 5ater)

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'!!/

#!2 6 "

'! min&! min# % & ' ( 7 %! min#! min

:ormalTemperature

ath Drain

8old 5ash +ot 5ash?"!!/ L #(min@ 8old 5ash

Sueee Dry


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#%) 9inally, sueee and dry)

4.4 %olor and %olorfastness!8olorfastness, in normal sense, refers to the resistan/e of /olor of a dyed or printedtextile to various types of influen/es ?5ater, ru11ing, light, et/@ to 5hi/h they are

normally exposed in textile manufa/turing and in pra/ti/al sense) So 5e /an say /olorfastness is the resistan/e of the /olor to fade or 1leed 1y some agen/ies li=e 5ashing,light, 5ater, /hlorine, perspiration et/)

The sta1ility of the /olor of a dyeingprinting or its fastness is one of its mostimportant properties) A fast dyeing 5ill sho5 no signifi/ant visi1le fading during theuseful or printed material may lose its /olor for the follo5ing)

Due to de/omposition of dye mole/ules in the fi1ers ?as in light fading@

Due their removal ?1leeding@ in to the external medium ?as in 5ashing@

Due to rea/tion 5ith a/id, al=ali or perspiration ?as in perspiration fastness@

Due to fri/tion of outer surfa/e ?as in ru11ing@

8olor fastness is usually assed separately 5ith respe/t to$

8hange in /olor of the spe/imen 1eing tested 5hi/h /olor is fading

Staining of undyed material 5hi/h is in /onta/t 5ith spe/imen during that is

/olor 1leeding

4.7 %olor &astness Tests Used in Te@tile!

The outstanding important properties of the dyed material are the fastness of its shade)

A num1er test is ne/essary to /over all the important properties of any one shade)AAT88 has des/ri1ed 77 /olor fastness tests, 5hi/h are availa1le in the manual ofS)D)8 ?So/iety of Dyers and /olorists@ and IS;)A//ording to the agen/ies tending to fade the /olor shad, /olor fastness /onsidered indifferent types$Su/h as

8olor fastness to light)

8olor fastness to 5ash)

8olor fastness to ru11ing)

8olor fastness to 5ater)

8olor fastness to perspiration)

8olor fastness to sea$5ater)

8olor fastness to a/id)

8olor fastness to al=alis)

8olor fastness to 1lea/hing)

8olor fastness to mer/eriing)

8olor fastness to /ross dyeing)

8olor fastness to anti shrin=age treatment)

8olor fastness to heat)

And so on) ut of the a1ove the first five are more important)

4.1 8rey scale!

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>rey s/ale is an empiri/al s/ale /ontaining a series of pairs of neutrally /olored /hips,sho5ing in/reasing /ontrast 5ithin pairs) It is used visually to assess /ontrasts

1et5een the pairs of patterns)

9or example in order to giving numeri/al assessment of /olor /hanging and stainingt5o sets of standard grey s/ale are used)The IS; grey s/ale has t5o series of /hip against 5hi/h the /hange of /olor of aspe/imen /an visually assessed and rated on #$( s/ale)

&i$! 8rey scale

The gradation of grey tones in the s/ales are defined in :))S ?:ational ureau ofStandards@ units one units 1eing defined as the smallest differen/e in depth, 5hi/his of /ommer/ial signifi/an/e) Differen/e in depth in shade i)e) the differen/es in

:))S units are spa/ed geometri/ally) +ere is a /hart sho5ing differen/e in /olorin :))S units and /orresponding fastness rating$

8olor differen/ein :))S units

9astness rating

! (

' '

6 &

#7 %

&% #

In light fastness, grey s/ale is # to 6)

In all other grey s/ale rating is # to ()

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9astne

ssgrade

Shade/hangeoftested

sample

9astness,uality

Stainingofadja/ent5hite

sample

:o /hange Ex/ellent :o Staining

Slightly loss in depth >ood Jery slight Staining

Appli/a1le loss Moderate Staining

Signifi/ant loss Signifi/ant Staining

>reat loss in depth Jery poor Deep Staining

4.5 %olor &astness tests!

4.5 %olor &astness to >ashin$!

The resistan/e to loss of /olor of any dyed material to 5ashing is referred to as its5ash fastness) If dye mole/ules have not penetrated in to the inter p!olymer /hainspa/e of fi1er or have not atta/hed to the fi1ers 5ith strong attra/tive for/e, poor 5ashfastness results)

Method!IS; #!($8!7

4.5.- (erey s/ale)

0ashing ma/hine)

Dryer)

8olor mat/hing /a1inet)

Se5ing ma/hine)

4.5.2 Procedure!

Sie of spe/imen 8ut sample 3 multifi1re at ?#! '@/m then stit/h)

Detergent 'gl E8E detergent ?0;@ #gl sodium per 1orate put in

distilled 5ater 3 /ooled at %!Y8 3 measured P+ ?5here ne/essary@) *un the program in the follo5ing 5ay $

Test no) TempY8 .i)volume ml Time min) Steel 1alls Adjust p+ A%S '!Y8 #(! &! #! #!)(b#

*inse the sample t5i/e 5ith /old 5ater)

Dry at 7!Y8 1y hanging or 1y flat iron pressing 1ut temperature should not

less more than #(!Y8) After that dyed sample are separate from the multifi1re fa1ri/ 1y removing

the stit/h)

9inally, >rey s/ale is used for grading)

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4.3 %olor fastness to 'ater AIS -,1 #-B!

The resistan/e to loss of /olor of any dyed material to 5ashing 1y normal 5ater isreferred to as its/olor fastness to 5ater) If dye mole/ules have not penetrated in to theinter polymer /hain spa/e of fi1er or have not atta/hed to the fi1ers 5ith strong

attra/tive for/e, poor 5ash fastness to 5ater results)

# Sample sie 8ut the spe/imen 3 multi$fi1er at #! /m L ' /m 3 one sight isse5n together)

% Solution 0et in distilled 5ater at room temperature for &! minute)& Pla/e it in a/ryli/ resin plates 3 put the 5eight on to the plates)' -eep it in oven 3 =eep the temperature at &2b %Y8 for 'hrs)( ;pen the spe/imen 3 dry it in the air hot ex/eeding 7!Y8)7 Assess the staining 3 shade /hange 5ith gray s/ale)

4.6 %olor fastness to *ers*iration l9aline ? cid solution AMethod!

IS -,1+ #,7B!

4.6.-Procedure! 8ut the spe/imen 3 multifi1re at #!'/m 3 se5n together)4.6.2 Pre*are solutionStart to prepare !)# moll +ydroxide ?:ao+@ 1y solving ')!g :ao+ in # litre distilled5ater)4.6.4 l9aline Solution!

Prepare al=aline solution /ontaining per litre distilled 5ater) !)(gl of #$histadine mono hydro/hloride monohydrate

(gl of sodium /hloride)

%)( g disodium hydrogen orthophosphate)This solution is 1rought to p+ $ 6 5ith !)# molel /austi/ solution)&)6)' cid solution!Start to prepare a/id solution /ontaining per litre distilled 5ater) !)( gl of #$histadine monohydro/hloride monohydrate

(gl of sodium /hloride)

%)% gl of sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate)

This solution is 1rought to p+ $ ()( 5ith !)# molel /austi/ solution)4BM . # (!7B0et the spe/imen in flat dish /ontaining a/id 3 al=aline solution 3 =eep for

&!min) Then ta=e the spe/imen 3 sueee the ex/ess solution 1y t5o glass rods)1BPut the spe/imen in to the a/ryli/ resin plates 3 put 5t) on the plates)5B-eep it in the 5oven at &2Y8 b %Y8 for 'hrs)3B;pen the spe/imen 7 multi fi1re 3 dry separately in the air temperature notex/eeding 7!Y8)6BA//ess the staining 3 shade /hange 5ith grey s/ale)

&7 Daffodil International University Library 9or 0et 9astness

Shade Per/entage &)!C8olor :ame *ea/ *ed *

9or Dry 9astnessShade Per/entage &)!C8olor :ame *ea/ *ed *

9or 0et 9astnessShade Per/entage %)!C8olor :ame *ea/ *ed *

9or Dry 9astnessShade Per/entage %)!C8olor :ame *ea/ *ed *


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*esult and Dis/ussion

a@ 8olor fastness to 5ash result)1@ 8olor fastness to 5ater result)/@ 8olor fastness to perspiration test result)

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7.- (esults for %olor fastness to 'ater!

Sample C of dyestaff

Timemin

+ue *ating 9a1ri/stru/ture

C ofdyestaff

+ue *ating

plain #C #! lue ' Singlejersey

#C lue '

plain #C %! lue ' Singlejersey

#C lue '$(

plain #C &! lue '$( Singlejersey

#C lue '$(

plain #C '! lue ( Singlejersey

#C lue (

T5ill#C

#! lue'$(

Interlo/=#C lue '

T5ill #C

%! lue

'$( Interlo/= #C lue '$(

T5ill #C&! lue


T5ill #C '! lue ( Interlo/= #C lue (

7.-.-8ra*hical re*resentation of 'ater fastness *ro*erties of cotton

fabric!

Plain Twill Single jersey Interlock

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

Time 10

Time 20

Time 30

Time 40

7.-.2 Discussion for %olor fastness to 'ater!

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%ha*ter+7! (esult and Discussion!


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9rom our o1servation 5e see that 5hen the dyeing time of /otton fa1ri/ is in/reasedthen the /olorfastness properties of these fa1ri/s are in/reased)

In the /ase of /olor fastness to 5ater the ran=ing of fa1ri/s are ex/ellent almost (5hen the dyeing time is '! minute) on the other hand 5e see that the /olor fastness to

5ater for fa1ri/s are good to fair, 5hen the dyeing time is #! minute) Earlier 5e havesho5n graphi/ally the result)

7.2 (esults for %olor fastness to 'ash!

Sample C of dyestaff

Timemin

+ue *ating 9a1ri/stru/ture

C ofdyestaff

+ue *ating

plain #C #! lue ' Singlejersey

#C lue '

plain #C %! lue '$( Singlejersey

#C lue '$(

plain #C &! lue '$( Singlejersey

#C lue '$(

plain #C '! lue ( Singlejersey

#C lue (

T5ill#C

#! lue'$(

Interlo/=#C lue '

T5ill #C%! lue

'$( Interlo/= #C lue '

T5ill #C

&! lue


T5ill #C '! lue ( Interlo/= #C lue (

7.2.- 8ra*hical re*resentation of 'ash fastness *ro*erties of cotton

fabric!

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0

1

2

3

4

5

6

Time 10

Time 20

Time 30

Time 40

7.2.2Discussion for %olor fastness to 'ash!

In the /ase of /olor fastness to 5ash the ran=ing of fa1ri/s are ex/ellent almost (5hen the dyeing time is '! minute) ;n the other hand 5e /an see that the /olorfastness to 5ater for fa1ri/s are good to fair, 5hen the dyeing time is #! minute)

7.4 (esults for %olor fastness to *ers*iration!

Sampl

e

C

ofdyestaf

f

Tim

emin

+ue *atin

g?A/id

@

*ating

?Al=ali@

9a1ri/

stru/ture

C

ofdyestaf

f

+ue *atin

g?A/id

@

*ating

?Al=ali@

plain #C #! lue

&$' ' Singlejersey

#C lue

&$' '

plain #C %! lue

' '$( Singlejersey

#C lue

' '$(

plain #C &! lue

' '$( Singlejersey

#C lue

'$( (

plain #C '! lue '$( ( Singlejersey #C lue '$( '$(

T5ill#C

#! lue

''$( Interlo/

=

#C lue

' &$'

T5ill #C%! lu

e

' '$( Interlo/=

#C lue

' '

T5ill #C

&! lu

' ( Interlo/

=

#C lu

e

' '$(

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e

T5ill #C '! lue

'$( ( Interlo/=

#C lue

( (

7.4.- 8ra*hical re*resentation of *ers*iration fastness *ro*erties

AcidB of cotton fabric!


0

1

2

3

4

5

6

Time 10

Time 20

Time 30

Time 40

7.4.-8ra*hical re*resentation of *ers*iration fastness *ro*erties

Al9aliB of cotton fabric!

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0

1

2

3

4

5

6

Time 10

Time 20

Time 30

Time 40

7.4.2 Discussion for %olor fastness to *ers*iration!

In the /ase of /olor fastness to perspiration the ran=ing of all fa1ri/s are ex/ellentalmost ( 5hen the dyeing time is '! minute) ;n the other hand 5e see that the /olorfastness to perspiration for fa1ri/s is good to fair, 5hen the dyeing time is #! minute)Earlier 5e have sho5n graphi/ally the result)

7.7 &inal result!

A1ove all 5e /an say that 5hen the dyeing time is in/reased then the /olor fastnessresults are ex/ellent) ;n the other hand 5hen the dyeing time is de/reased then the

/olor fastness results are good to fail up to a /ertain period of time)

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8on/lusion

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8ha ter !7


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Effe/t of time is very important in textile 5et pro/essing )y these tests 5e /an =no5and asses ho5 long the /olor 5ill 1e retained 1y textiles material, its longevity,

su1stantively, resistan/e et/ and all the tests are exe/uted a//ording to 5orldre/ognied method) There are 77 test methods existing 1ut /olor fastness to light,5ater, ru11ing, perspiration is more important) 0e have done & tests in ourexperiment) 0e have used the same dyes, dyeing /hemi/als 1oth in 5oven and =nitfa1ri/s) ut variation in results are o//urred due to the times differen/e, anddramati/ally 5e see that 5hen time is in/reased then the dye a1sor1ing /apa/ity of amaterial is also in/reased at a /ertain period of time and the /olor fastness results arealso ex/ellent at a /ertain period of time)At the end 5e /an say that the /uriosity, the uestions that 5ere arises in our mind are

1een solved after doing this proje/t) So 5e /an say that our proje/t is su//essful andthan=s to all persons 5ho help us to /omplete this proje/t)

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%ha*ter+5! %onclusion!


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asi/ prin/iple of textile /oloration 1y Arthur D road1end)

A pra/ti/e of textile /oloration Jolume # 1y 9orhad +ossain)

httptexte/h5orld)/om/otton$fi1er$physi/al$and$/hemi/al$properties$of$

/otton

http555)sindhagri)gov)p=pdfC%!reports/hara/teristi/sC%!ofC%!/otton

C%!varieties)pdfADate!#!$##$%!#%, Time!#!!%( am@

http555)s5i/ofil)/omprodu/ts!!#/otton)html?Date!#!$##$%!#%

Time!#!'( am@

http555)s/ri1d)/omdo/&!'&"266Stru/ture$and$Properties$of$8otton$

9i1er$A$.iterature$*evie5ADate!#%$##$%!#%, Time!#!#( am@

httpen)5i=ipedia)org5i=i*ea/tivecdyeADate!#%$##$%!#%, Time!###%

am@

httptextilelearner)1logspot)/om%!##!#rea/tive$dye$history$of$re/tive$

dye)htmlVix%E>I(/JiADate!#&$##$%!#%, Time!#%!! am@

httptextilelearner)1logspot)/om%!#%!#/hemi/al$stru/ture$of$rea/tive$

dyes)htmlVix%E>>TijjADate!#&$##$%!#%, Time!##&6 am@

httptextilelearner)1logspot)/om%!#%!#5hy$so$/alled$rea/tive$dye$history$

of)htmlVix%E>9pu75%ADate!#&$##$%!#%, Time!!%&! am@

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(eference
http://www.sindhagri.gov.pk/pdf%20reports/characteristics%20of%20cotton%20varieties.pdfhttp://www.sindhagri.gov.pk/pdf%20reports/characteristics%20of%20cotton%20varieties.pdfhttp://www.swicofil.com/products/001cotton.htmlhttp://www.swicofil.com/products/001cotton.htmlhttp://www.scribd.com/doc/30439788/Structure-and-Properties-of-Cotton-Fiber-A-Literature-Reviewhttp://www.scribd.com/doc/30439788/Structure-and-Properties-of-Cotton-Fiber-A-Literature-Reviewhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reactive_dyehttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/01/reactive-dye-history-of-rective-dye.html#ixzz2EGIB5cVihttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/01/reactive-dye-history-of-rective-dye.html#ixzz2EGIB5cVihttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/chemical-structure-of-reactive-dyes.html#ixzz2EGGTijjBhttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/chemical-structure-of-reactive-dyes.html#ixzz2EGGTijjBhttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/why-so-called-reactive-dye-history-of.html#ixzz2EGFpu6w2http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/why-so-called-reactive-dye-history-of.html#ixzz2EGFpu6w2http://www.sindhagri.gov.pk/pdf%20reports/characteristics%20of%20cotton%20varieties.pdfhttp://www.sindhagri.gov.pk/pdf%20reports/characteristics%20of%20cotton%20varieties.pdfhttp://www.swicofil.com/products/001cotton.htmlhttp://www.scribd.com/doc/30439788/Structure-and-Properties-of-Cotton-Fiber-A-Literature-Reviewhttp://www.scribd.com/doc/30439788/Structure-and-Properties-of-Cotton-Fiber-A-Literature-Reviewhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reactive_dyehttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/01/reactive-dye-history-of-rective-dye.html#ixzz2EGIB5cVihttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2011/01/reactive-dye-history-of-rective-dye.html#ixzz2EGIB5cVihttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/chemical-structure-of-reactive-dyes.html#ixzz2EGGTijjBhttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/chemical-structure-of-reactive-dyes.html#ixzz2EGGTijjBhttp://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/why-so-called-reactive-dye-history-of.html#ixzz2EGFpu6w2http://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2012/01/why-so-called-reactive-dye-history-of.html#ixzz2EGFpu6w2


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effects of time on dyeing of different cotton fabrics with reactive dye. 47

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